This is my classic winter Provençal beef daube, one I make when the sun is shining in December and I can relax by a roaring fire in the kitchen fireplace as the fragrant daube quietly works its magic. And when a local hunter supplies the meat, I also prepare this daube with tender baby boar known as marcassin. (We have lots on our property that are constantly trying to raid my vegetable garden!). Use at least three cuts of meat for greater depth of flavor and varied textures. Another trick is to flame the wine once the meat is browned and the wine has been added. Flaming creates the Maillard reaction and will help intensify the final flavors.
8 TO 12 SERVINGS
EQUIPMENT: A 6 quart (6 l) cast-iron pot with a lid; matches.
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 pounds (2 kg) varied cuts of beef (see Note), cut into 3-ounce (90 g) pieces (about 2 × 3 inches/5 × 7.5 cm), at room temperature
Fine sea salt
Coarse, freshly ground black pepper
2 bottles (750 ml each) hearty red wine, such as a Côtes-du-Rhône
1-1/2 quarts (1.5 l) Chicken Stock
4 large onions, peeled, halved crosswise, and cut into thin rings
1 plump, fresh garlic head, peeled, halved, green germ removed if present
6 carrots, peeled and cut into thick rounds
4 bay leaves, crushed
1/4 cup (60 ml) Italian tomato paste
Several strips of caul fat (optional)
Several marrow bones (optional)
Rice or pasta, for serving
Fresh parsley leaves, for garnish
1. In the pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Reduce the heat to medium and add several pieces of meat, searing on all sides. Do not crowd the pan, and be patient: Good browning is essential to achieve depth of flavor. Continue to sear the meat in batches, about 5 minutes per batch. Use tongs (to avoid piercing the meat) to transfer the seared beef to a platter. Immediately season generously with salt and pepper.
2. Return all the meat to the pot. Add the wine and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from the heat and carefully set a match to the wine in the pot, letting it flame to burn off the alcohol and enrich the flavors. Take care that there is nothing flammable nearby. It can take 2 to 3 minutes of flaming to burn off the alcohol.
3. Return the pot to medium heat. Add the stock, onions, garlic, carrots, bay leaves, and tomato paste, stirring to combine the paste into the liquid. If using, add the caul fat and marrow bones. Cover and bring to a very gentle simmer over low heat. Braise until the meat is very tender, 3 to 4 hours. Stir from time to time to coat the meat with the liquid. Taste for seasoning as well as doneness. The sauce should be thick and glossy.
4. Reheat at serving time, and serve accompanied by rice or pasta and garnished with fresh parsley.
NOTE: If your butcher can supply some beef cheeks, this is a great cut of meat for this dish; when cooked long and slow, the result is much like the texture of pulled pork. Other more common cuts to try include short ribs, top or bottom round, heel of round, shoulder arm, or shoulder blade. Marrow bones and caul fat help add a remarkably silken texture to the sauce.
MAKE-AHEAD NOTE: The daube benefits from being prepared at least 1 day and up to 3 days in advance. Flavors will have time to meld and develop. Store, well covered, in the refrigerator. Reheat at serving time.
WINE MATCH: Any red from Provençal winemaker Isabel Ferrando at Domaine Saint Préfert in Châteaneuf-du-Pape would make a fine accompaniment to this dish.