Master Recipe 
It’s amazing how versatile this classic three-ingredient French meringue can be. Baked long and slow at the lowest of temperatures, these sugary beauties come out of the oven dry, crisp, and perfectly white. Just firm enough on the outside and like billowy, welcome clouds on the inside, these are my preferred meringues. They are the ideal low-budget, make-ahead dessert, always in season, simply garnished with whipped yogurt cream and berries. It is important to have the oven at the proper temperature, so that the meringues remain lily-white, with barely a touch of color. These can be baked as elegant, professional, piped-layered meringue nests, or simple free-form meringues with a touch of whimsy.
MAKES 6 NESTS OR 12 FREE-FORM MERINGUES
EQUIPMENT: A heavy-duty mixer fitted with a whisk; a large rubber spatula or large metal spoon; 1 or 2 baking sheets lined with baking parchment; a pastry bag fitted with a large nozzle (optional).
4 large egg whites, free-range and organic, at room temperature
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons (280 g) superfine sugar
Whipped Yogurt Cream, for serving
Raspberries or a mix of berries, for serving
1. If preparing piped meringue nests, arrange a rack in the lower third of the oven. If preparing free-form meringues, arrange two racks in the lower half of the oven. Preheat the oven to 210°F (100°C).
2. In the bowl of the heavy-duty mixer, whisk the egg whites at low speed until frothy, about 20 seconds. Add the cream of tartar. Gradually increase the speed until just before the stiff peak stage, 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to overbeat or the whites may begin to break down and become lumpy. Slowly add about 3/4 cup (150 g) of the sugar to the whites, a tablespoon at a time, and whisk until the mixture becomes thick and satiny and stands in tall stiff peaks, about 1 minute more.
3. Remove the mixer bowl from its stand. Add the remaining sugar and gently fold it into the whites: With the rubber spatula or metal spoon, cut through the egg whites and sugar with the side edge of the spoon or spatula until you reach the bottom of the bowl, then draw the spoon along the bottom of the bowl. Turn your wrist to bring the spoon up the side of the bowl, lightly bringing the egg whites from the bottom to the top, and as you do so turn the bowl about 45 degrees and lightly overturn the spoon to gently fold the whites on top of the sugar. Turning the bowl as you fold will help the sugar to be incorporated more efficiently. Continue cutting into the mixture and folding until just incorporated. Always work slowly and gently. Do not be tempted to overmix and unnecessarily knock extra air out of the mixture. If necessary, err on the side of underfolding.
4. IF PREPARING PIPED MERINGUES: Using a few small dabs of the meringue as glue, stick the baking parchment to the baking sheet. Fold back the wide, open end of the pastry bag and fill the bag with the meringue. Unfold the open end of the bag, twist it closed, and pipe the meringue into 6 small 3-inch (7.5 cm) disks to form the bottom of the nests. Then, following the outside edge of the disk, pipe a ring of meringue to create the side of the nest. Repeat with two more layers on top.
IF PREPARING FREE-FORM MERINGUES: Use a soup spoon to form the meringues into wispy 3-inch (7. 5 cm) balls on the baking parchment, dividing 12 meringues evenly between the two baking sheets. I like my meringues to resemble a wild, undisciplined, spiked hairdo.
5. Bake until firm and dry, about 2 hours, switching the two baking sheets halfway through the baking time. Let cool completely. Serve on individual dessert plates, garnished with a dollop of whipped yogurt cream and berries.
MAKE-AHEAD NOTE: Meringues can be made in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.