To do any job well, it is of course important to have the right tools on hand. The beginner especially may be tempted to buy every conceivable piece of equipment in the hope that having a freshly painted, dedicated sewing room full of shiny new things will make her an instant seamstress. The sewing tools you actually need are few and unlikely to become obsolete – and the right equipment of 50 years ago is still state of the art today. Good tools are a genuine pleasure to use. In this chapter we look at the items you cannot afford to be without and a few you might want to treat yourself to.
Obvious as it may be, you cannot get very far with sewing tasks without accurate measuring and marking out. If it goes wrong at this early stage you will be struggling through the whole project. For this aspect of making, your attention is just as important as the tools, and nearly anything with calibrated markings can be pressed into service.
Made in anything from paper to woven textile with a PVC coating, there is no shortage of choice with the humble tape measure. They range in cost from less than a dollar to several dollars. When brand new, any of these will do the job but over time the cheaper ones will stretch significantly. Some tape measures feature a long brass end, which may save some blushes when taking an inside leg measurement, but as this covers the markings on one side of the tape, it can be a bit irritating. Note that tape measures do have a habit of getting lost so make sure you have a backup.
Oh what a joy, especially if you do a lot of pattern alterations. Similar to a school set square, this right-angled triangular wonder is made from transparent plastic; look for a style that has inches or centimeters marked along one edge with corresponding lines marked for the first 2 in/5 cm parallel to the bottom edge. This makes for simple marking of seam allowances or hems without the need to remeasure. It can also be used for instant marking of right angles. Grading rulers are a cheaper option, but they are less versatile and not nearly as clear to use.
This great timesaving device has a moveable pointer allowing for the precise measuring of hems and seam allowances: set it to the desired length, measure and mark, and you’re done.
Tailor’s chalk resembles an extra slim bar of soap, with nice sharp edges and corners for marking cloth. It comes in various colors to contrast with your fabric and brushes off nicely when the project is completed. Always keep a pencil (Fig 7) handy for pattern marking and notes.
This traditional ruler, usually made in wood and now extended to the modern meter, is invaluable for home furnishing projects where long straight lines are needed. As an added bonus it will make you feel like a real tailor when measuring off cloth from the roll. A shorter metal ruler (Fig 6) can be more maneuverable.
Scissors are the most wondrous invention ever, equalled only perhaps by the bicycle. There are so many scissors on the market, often appearing similar but with very different qualities, hence there is a lot of confusion. We have, over the years, tried many of them and narrowed our list down to what works well and will last. Our philosophy when buying scissors is choose wisely and buy once. British-made scissors are still high quality—the traditional steel city of Sheffield still turns out some of the finest tailor’s shears and thread clips that money can buy.
Specialist scissors with triangular teeth. Contrary to popular belief, these are not multipurpose for all fabrics: they are best suited to tightly woven cloths that are not prone to fraying and they will chew up and destroy loose weave fabrics. A good pair of pinking shears is a rare beast these days, even though all our mothers would have had a pair in the sewing box. They are not cheap and might be considered a real luxury, but cheap alternatives simply do not do the job effectively and are unlikely to last. Quality pinking shears will have a center bolt so that they can be realigned, as pinkers generally start chewing up fabric when they are misaligned rather than when they are blunt.
For snipping threads, trimming and clipping seams. As you will be using these constantly while sewing, choose a good sharp pair with comfortable handles; we like a wide bow handle as it is comfortable to use and offers good leverage. They should be well made and feel precise, with fine blades so that you can snip thread really close to the fabric.
Designed for snipping threads, these have a finger loop on the bottom and sprung blades. They are an acquired taste: some people swear by them, others find them awkward. If you get along with them they can be incredibly useful as they hang on the third finger, poised and ready for use, gunslinger fashion.
Fig 1 Tape Measure
Fig 2 The Grader Square
Fig 3 Sewing Gauge
Fig 4 Tailor’s Chalk
Fig 5 Yardstick
Fig. 6 Metal Ruler
Fig 7 Pencil
Specialty scissors useful when making buttonholes. There are two types available. The traditional type has a rectangular notch in one blade that allows you to put the scissor over the button placket without cutting it, and they have a screw on the side to regulate the size of the buttonhole. The other type has large handles and short sharp blades, designed to cut through layers of fabric with ease and accuracy. As well as buttonholes these are great for trimming corners and seams where an embroidery scissor isn’t strong enough.
Also known as dressmaking scissors, these are large scissors designed for the accurate cutting out of cloth. Choose the best pair you can afford and the largest pair you can hold comfortably – most commonly these will be 8 in/20 cm or, for the brave and confident, 10 in/25 cm. They can be found for both right-handed and left-handed use. Traditionally, tailor’s shears are side bent, which means that the bottom blade of the scissors remains on the table while the upper blade moves to cut. The advantage of this is twofold: firstly the fabric lifts less, making both straight lines and curves eminently more controllable; secondly the support offered by the underlying flat surface means even a heavy shear is not difficult to handle. We prefer a chrome-plated blade, which is smoother than a nickel finish. A good pair of hears can, if needed, be sharpened again and again and will last a lifetime.
Serrated blade tailor’s shears are extra sharp. Usually one blade is serrated and the other is a traditional knife-edge. They cut beautifully but can never be sharpened. They tend to be more expensive than traditional dressmaking scissors.
A separate pair of decent scissors for cutting out paper patterns is essential. Choose a pair with a long and relatively fine blade so that you can cut closely and easily see the cutting line.
As with any quality item, you will want to take care of your investment. Here are a few top tips:
Fig 1 Pinking Shears
Fig 2 Wide Bow Scissors
Fig 3 Thread Clips
Fig 4a Buttonhole Scissors
Fig 4b Adjustable Buttonhole Scissors
Fig 5 Side-Bent Tailor’s Shears
The sewing machine has been around for almost 200 years.1 These days there are some very fancy models out there doing all kinds of attractive, impressively clever computerized stitches, but all the machines we use are basic electric models from the Eighties or before. We need no more than straight, zigzag and buttonhole stitch, and even the most basic machine will offer these with a wide range of variables: stitches per inch/centimeter, width, and so on. You can pick one up for such a small sum that you might want to spend the rest on an overlocker (see page 20), where it really does pay to spend as much as you can afford.
Treat your machine well and respect the clockwork-like precision of the construction. Keep it regularly serviced and lightly oiled at all times (do not over oil as this may clog up the delicate works, and oil drips will ruin your cloth).
If you encounter a problem, it is most likely to be in the setup. Rethread the machine (this is the sewing equivalent of rebooting the computer): most machines have the same basic arrangement for thread and many have a very welcome yet discreet diagram for threading printed somewhere inside a flap or door. If this brings no joy then rethread the bobbin.
Tension is another common problem. Check the dial (generally on the front of the machine and pictured right): the top tension is adjusted to match the bottom tension, and you should not mess with bobbin tension adjustments unless you know what you are doing. Bobbins vary from machine to machine, so consult your manual (if your model is secondhand and came without a manual, it should be possible to download one).
Always test new fabrics for correct tension and stitch length: sewing on a single layer will not give you a correct assessment, so stitch through two layers as you would when project making.
It is a good idea to begin each new project with a new needle, appropriate in size and strength to the task at hand (see below). Needles are cheap and do not last forever, especially if you are sewing synthetic fabrics. A dull or overused needle can cause snagging or puckering and at worst may bend or snap instead of making a nice tidy hole. By the way, always take the fabric and the threads out of the back of the machine to prevent unnecessary pull on the cloth or strain on the needle, which may cause it to bend or even break.
There seems to be a needle for every purpose, from the Metallica, used for sewing with delicate metallic thread, to the flighty wing needle, which has “wings” to create wider holes in tightly woven linens. As a ground rule, match the needle size to the cloth and thread (see Size Matters, page 20), and only go to the specialist alternatives if the job demands it. A few that we regularly use are listed here:
BALLPOINT Ideal to use on jersey, stretch and synthetic fabrics.
JEANS Designed for heavy-duty stitching and suitable for denim fabrics. Featuring a very sharp point and stiff shank, they are used for stitching jeans, canvas and multiple layers of fabric. Available in most sizes, we use this needle in size 14/90 for all our oilskin stitching.
TWIN-POINTED With two needles on a single shaft, this clever little needle forms parallel stitches like those running down the side of your jeans. Check that the hole in the baseplate of your machine is wide enough to take the needle. In the following examples the second number indicates the distance between the two needles:
Size 11 × 1/16 in/2 mm |
Suitable for fine to medium fabrics |
Size 14 × 1/8 in/4 mm |
Suitable for medium to heavy fabrics |
LEATHER Specifically designed for stitching through leather, suede and vinyl, these needles have a slight cutting point to pierce the “fabric.” Never use on woven or knit fabrics.
Machine needle sizes are always quoted in imperial and metric. Standard, regular-point machine needles are designed for domestic sewing machines and are used for basic stitching.
Size 10/70 |
Suitable for light fabrics, silk and taffeta |
Size 11/80 |
Suitable for medium fabrics, cotton, linen and satin |
Size 14/90 |
Suitable for medium to heavy fabrics and heavier woollens – this is an ideal in-between needle |
Size 16/100 |
Suitable for heavy fabrics, denim, tweeds, curtain fabrics and soft furnishings |
Size 18/110 |
Suitable for upholstery fabrics |
Size 20/120 |
Suitable for thick denim and heavy canvas |
Having an overlocking machine (also known as a serger) is a real bonus and adds a professional finish to your garment. It works much like zigzag stitch on steroids; it comprehensively fastens open edges and trims excess fabric in one swift run through. It is by no means a necessity, but if you find yourself constantly sewing and finishing, you will not regret the investment. However, don’t buy cheap or you will spend a lifetime rethreading.
Overlockers can be used with three or four threads: the three threads are used for finishing the seam with an overcast stitch that wraps around the edge of the seam, and the fourth thread adds a running stitch to hold the seams together. Overlocking is great for stretch fabric.
Here are a few of the other everyday essentials.
The proper tool for turning out corners: you may be tempted to use your scissors or a pencil or pen instead but this can often spell disaster, piercing through your short-lived corner. Use to “chew” into the corner rather than to push.
Protects your fingertips when hand stitching. You will either get along with using one or not. For some, they are uncomfortable, sweaty and feel constraining. We prefer the tailor’s thimble with a hole in the top as this allows the finger to breathe and you can still feel the cloth, but you do have to get used to pushing the needle from the side rather than the top.
A good-quality needle threader can save hours of frustration. Cheap ones don’t last; choose an all-metal version and take good care of it. A bodkin looks like a giant flat needle. It is great for threading ribbon, drawstrings and elastic, and far easier to use than a safety pin.
A timesaving tool for unpicking stitches. Although not really how unpicking should be done,2 it will allow you to quickly get back on track when things go wrong. Seam rippers are usually cheap and mass-produced, so replace regularly and keep a spare handy.
This is a torturous-looking wire-and-hook implement for turning sewn tubes of bias binding, or similar, the right way round. It is ideal for making spaghetti straps or looped buttonholes, though often usurped by a humble knitting needle in practice.
1 In 1830, French tailor Barthélemy Thimonnier nearly lost his life at the hands of enraged tailors whose livelihoods were threatened by his newfangled invention, the sewing machine. He could not at the time have known the power of what he had created. Because of him, you can sit comfortably at home, creating to your heart’s content, so make him proud.
2For those who really want to know, the correct method of unpicking is to pull the top trailing thread end until it snaps, then turn over your work and pull the now loose bobbin thread, again until it snaps.
