This project imparts the fundamentals of good making. It has been designed to teach you to mark, cut out and sew straight, and it is an ideal beginner’s project or a good refresher. There is a lot of straight sewing to do, so take your time and try to do it as perfectly as possible. The finished bag is a delight to behold and can be dyed any color of the rainbow. For the calico label, we have supplied a distinctive Merchant & Mills graphic on our website, or you can choose an image of your own.
We have made a label for you to download and print onto iron-on transfer paper. This is available on our website at www.merchantandmills.com/book. However, if you wish to make your own, go mad with fabric pens or even embroidery.
1. If you look at the sewing machine’s foot plate you will see a number of lines; sometimes these will be numbered, sometimes not. These serve as guide lines to ensure your stitching line is always the same distance from the edge of the fabric (Illus 1).
Illus 1
2. To help you to keep the fabric straight, you can place a piece of masking tape along the edge of the guide line you are working to, extending it over the foot plate (Illus 2).
Illus 2
3. We have chosen to sew the bag using the No. 5 guide line to give a standard seam allowance of 5/8 in/1.5 cm. If your foot plate does not have numbers, measure this distance from the needle to find the correct guide line (Illus 3).
Illus 3
4. Place your fabric beneath the needle, lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly for about 3/8 in/1 cm. Then, using the reverse stitch button or lever, go backwards to the beginning of your stitching. Disengage the reverse stitch button or lever and start sewing forwards again. This will secure your sewing so it won’t come undone. As you continue to sew, use your hands to hold the fabric straight, and keep your eyes focused on the guide line rather than the needle (Illus 4).
Illus 4
5. When you get to the corner, stop sewing 5/8 in/1.5 cm before the end (Illus 5).
Illus 5
6. Lift up the presser foot and turn the fabric 45 degrees to line up with the No. 5 guide line. If you have gone over the guide line, turn the fabric back, put the presser foot down and sew one backstitch, turning the wheel by hand for greater control; alternatively if you are short of the line, sew one more stitch forward. Lift up the presser foot and turn the fabric again, repeating as necessary until you are perfectly lined up with the guide line (Illus 6).
Illus 6
7. Put the presser foot down and start sewing again. Always secure your sewing with reverse stitch at the beginning and end (Illus 7).
Illus 7
1. Mark out the calico following the measurements given in Fig 1. Cut out the pieces.
Fig 1
2. You will now have six pieces of fabric (Fig 2): two main bag pieces, two bag flap pieces and two pockets. Each pair will be sewn together to give your bag a hard-wearing double layer.
Fig 2
3. Before you begin make sure all the pieces are the right size. Pin each pair together. If you insert the pins at a right angle to the edge of the fabric, you will be able to sew over them (Fig 3).
Fig 3
1. Sew all the way around each paired-up piece (Fig 4). Take your time and remember to reverse stitch at the beginning and end.
Fig 4
2. Take the main bag and pin the pocket into place 21/2 in/6.5 cm down from the top of the bag (Fig 5). Sew on the pocket along the sides and the bottom edge leaving the top edge unstitched.
Fig 5
3. Fold the bag so that the pocket is right on the fold (Fig 6).
Fig 6
4. Pin the sides together and sew down each side (Fig 7). You will be sewing over the top of the pocket sewing, so make sure you sew straight.
Fig 7
5. Now add the bag handle; pin the cotton webbing tape to the top of the bag just inside the stitching line at each side (Fig 8).
Fig 8
6. Sew the webbing handle into place, sewing along the same stitching line as you have sewn before (Fig 9).
Fig 9
7. Pin and sew the bag flap to the top of the bag, along the same stitch line as before (Fig 10).
Fig 10
1. If you are going to dye your bag, now is the time to do so – see Dyeing Tips below. When the bag is still damp, press out flat. The edges will be matted and frayed after going through the washing machine (Fig 11a) so trim off the long threads to neaten up the seams (Fig 11b).
Fig 11a
Fig 11b
2. Measure across the top of the bag flap and put in a pin to mark the middle. Now measure down the side and once again mark the middle with a pin (Fig 12).
Fig 12
3. Cut a piece of calico 8 by 61/4 in/20 by 16 cm and iron on the bag label graphic transfer following the instructions that come with the transfer paper. Fold the bag label in half to find the middle and mark with a pin. Repeat for the other dimension (Fig 13).
Fig 13
4. Place the label on the bag, matching up the pins so that the label is in the center of the flap (Fig 14).
Fig 14
5. Pin and sew into place (Fig 15). If using our graphic, sew on top of the border line; if you have used your own artwork, sew at least 3/8 in/1 cm from the edge.
Fig 15
