Not to be confused with an Italian ham, the tailor’s variety is an essential piece of your pressing kit. You may not know it yet, but you need one of these for pressing curved seams and darts, and while you are at it, make yourself a sleeve roll, which is handy for both seam and cuff details. Traditionally made with one side in stout cotton and the other in wool, these pressing aids are simple to make for very little money. For more detail on how to use them, see Pressing Matters, page 57.
1. Make paper patterns following the measurements given in Figs 1 and 2. Use each pattern piece to mark out one fabric piece from wool and another from cotton or calico. Cut out the fabric pieces, and clip the notches to mark the openings for stuffing. Round off all the corners of the two pieces of fabric for the sleeve roll (Fig 3).
1. Pin together the fabric pieces with right sides facing. Sew together taking a 5/8-in/1.5-cm seam allowance and leaving a 4-in/10-cm opening on one side (Fig 4). Sew two rows of stitching to reinforce the seam.
2. Turn through to the right side and stuff with sawdust. As you stuff, pack the sawdust down with the end of a wooden spoon. When you think you have stuffed enough, stuff some more! The ham should be really solid, verging on dangerous. Hand stitch the opening closed using a small neat stitch (Fig 5).