Highlights
Norfolk’s main tourist draw, the Broads, are an extensive network of navigable rivers and lakes, fens, marshes and wet woodlands. The shallow lakes, or broads, were created by the gradual flooding of shallow pits that had been created by medieval peat-diggers. Today the waterways are a haven for boating holidaymakers, walkers, cyclists and wildlife enthusiasts. Although much of the plant and animal life has disappeared, many of the broads are now nature reserves. Remember to wear sturdy shoes or wellies – this is a wetland, even in summer. If time allows, take one of the small boat trips from various spots across the Broads – there’s nothing like seeing them from the water.
Ranworth Broad
Start your tour 4 miles (6km) east of Wroxham at the village of Ranworth, peacefully set on the Malthouse Broad in the valley of the River Thurne. Norfolk Wildlife Trust runs boat trips from here to the superb floating Ranworth Broad Wildlife Centre 1 [map] (free) where visitors can take another boat for a tour around the broad. Alternatively, take the 10–15 minute walk along the leafy boardwalk via reed and sedge beds with rare aquatic plants. Look out for rare butterflies, dragonflies and damsel flies as you go. The glass-panelled wildlife centre has wonderful views of wildfowl on the water. This is a family-friendly spot with chatty staff and plenty of nature activities for children. Carefully positioned webcams focus on the antics of the wildfowl on the water. There are always birds to see, especially terns diving for fish.
Back at Ranworth don’t miss the Church of St Helen 2 [map] above the village. Known as ‘the Cathedral of the Broads’, this has a beautifully decorated medieval roodscreen portraying the apostles and popular saints of the period, a rare illuminated antiphoner (service book) and – for the energetic – glorious views from the top of the bell tower (89 steep steps up).
The view from the Church of St Helen, Ranworth.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Salhouse Broad and Hoveton Great Broad
Drive from Ranworth to Salhouse via the pretty village of Woodbastwick 3 [map] with its thatched houses. Before the village of Salhouse you’ll see a wooden sign for Salhouse Broad 4 [map] (tel: 01603-722 775; www.salhousebroad.org.uk), a broad of around 40 acres (16 hectares) reached by a 10-minute woodland walk. This is a popular spot for canoe hire, as well as ferry trips (Easter–Sept Fri–Sun 10am–3pm) to the nature trail on Hoveton Great Broad 5 [map], another haven for wildlife.
Wroxham Barns
North of Wroxham on the Tunstead Road, the Wroxham Barns complex (www.wroxhambarns.co.uk; daily 10am–5pm) is a favourite with youngsters, particularly for its Junior Farm where children can watch pigs being fed, groom the ponies, collect eggs from the henhouse and bottle feed spring lambs. The site includes craft studios, clothes boutiques, children’s funfair and a mini-golf course. There is also an excellent restaurant (for more information, click here).
Children will love the Junior Farm at Wroxham Barns.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Wroxham
Drive on to Salhouse, turning right for Wroxham 6 [map]. Be forewarned that this small town’s centre is notorious for traffic jams, especially at weekends. The so-called ‘Capital of the Norfolk Broads’, it is a boaties’ paradise, equipped with every nautical need. The famous Roys of Wroxham, in the same family since the 19th century, appear to own half the village, and have what’s universally known as ‘the world’s biggest village store’. Stock up in their Food Hall for a picnic or head straight on, taking the main right turn after the bridge signposted Potter Heigham, A1062.
Just before Horning you’ll see signs for BeWILDerwood 7 [map] (tel: 01692-633 033; www.bewilderwood.co.uk; February half term until end of October half term, 10am–5.30pm, but check website before visiting). If you have children in tow, particularly 2–12-year-olds, this is not to be missed. There’s oodles of fun here. Extending over 50 acres of woodland and marshland, it is a magical playground of tree-houses, aerial ropewalks and wobbly zipwires, reached by boat or boardwalk. The whole site is built from sustainable wood. Creator and owner Tom Blofeld drew on happy childhood memories (he grew up here) to create the adventure playground and the magical forest folk who live deep in the woods, among them Swampy, a young Marsh Boggle, the lugubrious Thornyclod Spider and the goblin-like Twiggles. The characters feature in Tom’s wonderful book A Boggle at BeWILDerwood which, with his other books (and audio book), are on sale at the site.
Spot the seals
Horsey is only about a mile from the sea and the beach between here and Winterton-on-Sea is home to a colony of seals that come to breed. Turn left before you reach the Windpump, along a track marked ‘seal viewing area’. From here it’s a 20-minute walk – and well worth it as you can often see seals bobbing up and down in the waves. In winter you can see large numbers of them offshore.
A couple of friendly seals near Horsey.
Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications
Horning
Take the next right turn for the pretty riverside village of Horning 8 [map]. If you’re in need of sustenance there is plenty of choice here: the Swan Inn has a lovely setting by the waterside, the New Inn serves good food and a great pint and the Bure River Cottage is a fabulous seafood restaurant (for more information, click here, dinner only). A plaque in the centre of Horning shows the path from the village along the River Bure to St Benet’s Abbey. The evocative 12th-century ruin, standing in isolation, was originally on an island and has become an iconic symbol of the Broads. This is still a place of worship and the Bishop of Norwich takes an annual service here on the first Sunday of August.
Treehouses at BeWILDerwood.
BeWILDerwood
Hickling Broad
Continue east along the A1062 through the quiet village of Ludham for Potter Heigham 9 [map], a boating centre best known for its low-arched medieval bridge where many an amateur sailor has floundered. There is little to detain you in the village so turn left on to the A149, signed Stalham. Take the first right turn, marked Hickling, and follow signs to the village, which bring you to the Greyhound Inn, an excellent place for a pit stop (for more information, click here). Turn right at the pub, following signs for the Nature Reserve and Visitor Centre.
Pleasure boating on Horning Broads.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Set in the upper stretches of the River Thurne, Hickling Broad (www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk/hickling) is the largest of the Norfolk Broads. With its wide skies and open landscape it’s a lovely spot for a walk. Various trails start from the Nature Reserve ) [map]. Keep an eye out for swallowtail butterflies, bitterns, cranes, lapwings, marsh harriers and other birds and insects. The Water Trail takes you by electric-powered boat across open water to the 60ft (18-metre) tree tower with its views of the broad. It’s worth hiring binoculars from the Visitor Centre (deposit required), and booking is recommended for boat trips (tel: 01692-598 276).
Bure Valley Railway
Let the train take the strain and enjoy the views of Bure Valley from the narrow gauge railway which runs between Wroxham and the market town of Aylsham. This old-fashioned railway (www.bvrw.co.uk) operates from April to October, plus some winter weekends, with a journey time of 45 minutes. The train stops at Coltishall, Buxton and Brampton en route. You can also walk or pedal along the Valley Path that follows the railway.
Train and driver on the Bure Valley Railway.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
The Museum of the Broads
Return to the Greyhound Inn, turn right and take the second left towards Stalham. After just over 2 miles (3km) turn left and immediately right for the A149, then head towards Stalham. You’ll see the The Museum of the Broads ! [map] (The Staithe; tel: 01692 581 681; www.museumofthebroads.org.uk; July–Oct Sun–Fri 10am–4.30pm, Sat 10am–10pm, closed Fri in Oct) signed on the left before you reach the village. Manned by dedicated volunteers, this is a small but informative set up where you can discover how the landscape was forged, learn about wherries which traded here, watch footage of early Broads’ holiday life and see a fine collection of Broads’ boats.
Horsey Windpump
Turn left on to the A149 and take the first right, following brown signs all the way to Horsey Windpump @ [map] (tel: 01493-393 904; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; check website for opening times). The pump dates from 1912 and was restored in 1943 by the National Trust after damage by lightning. Climb to the top to enjoy fine views over the pretty Horsey Mere. After a bracing walk along the beach to see the seals (for more information, click here) the cosy Nelson Head pub in Horsey (for more information, click here) makes a welcome retreat.
Sailboat on Oulton Broad.
Sylvaine Poitau/Apa Publications
Southern Broads
In comparison to their northern neighbours, the Southern Broads are less scenic with fewer facilities, but are also less crowded. The main road access is via Lowestoft, Norwich or Loddon, a lively little market town and boating centre on the River Chet. Many of the broads are inaccessible by car and you’re better off going by boat, foot – or even train. The Wherryman’s Way is the main long-distance footpath of the Broads (35 miles/56km) following the River Yare from Great Yarmouth all the way to Norwich. From Great Yarmouth the path leads to the huge expanse of Breydon Water, a tidal estuary rather than a broad, revealing a vast expanse of mud at low tide. This gateway from the sea to the Broads is a haven for geese, ducks and waders – the RSPB have a nature reserve here with a bird hide.
The Electric Eel
Explore a working marsh on the Electric Eel (June–Sept daily, Apr, May and Oct Sat–Sun, bank holidays, Easter week and half terms), departing from Toad Hole Cottage, How Hill, northeast of Horning. The electrically powered Edwardian-style boat glides through the dykes where reed and sedge are cut annually for thatch. Toad Hole Cottage, formerly an eel-catcher’s cottage, is now an information point and study centre.
Fine views over Breydon Water and Halvergate grazing marshes can be seen from the Roman fort remains of Burgh Castle (Tour 6, for more information, click here). The Wherryman’s Way continues to Berney Arms, with a lofty windmill and wonderful views of the marshes and a remote pub (closed at time of writing). There is no road access but it has its own railway station. The path continues to Reedham, a busy spot renowned for its swing railway bridge and chain ferry for cars. This is the only place where you can cross the Yare between Great Yarmouth and Norwich so expect queues in summer. Further along the river is the minor but beautiful Rockland Broad and to the northwest Surlingham, popular for its pubs and walks in the Wheatfen Nature Reserve. The most southerly broad, and the one most easily accessible by car, is Oulton Broad (Tour 6, for more information, click here) near Lowestoft.
Eating Out
Woodbastwick
The Fur and Feather Inn
Slad Lane; tel: 01603-720 003; www.thefurandfeatherinn.co.uk; food: daily noon–9pm.
The tap for the neighbouring Woodforde’s Brewery, this is an alluring thatched pub with top-notch ales and home-made food. Along with pub classics there are puff pastry pies, such as venison and merlot or pheasant and bacon, plus a range of tasty burgers. Beer fans can finish off with chocolate ale cake flavoured with malted cream and Norfolk Nog shooter. Be prepared for a lighter summer menu. Bottled beers, gifts and locally sourced produce can be purchased from the adjacent brewery. ££
Wroxham
Tunstead Road; tel: 01603-777 106; www.wroxhambarns.co.uk; daily 10am–5pm.
Just north of Wroxham (and part of the Wroxham Barns complex, for more information, click here), this welcoming, award-winning restaurant serves excellent home-made snacks and lunches. Try the chowder with locally smoked haddock or the sausages from the onsite company Scrummy Pig, served with mash. And leave room for the chocolate fondue. £.
Horstead
The Recruiting Sergeant
Norwich Road; tel: 01603-737 077; www.recruitingsergeant.co.uk; food: Mon–Sat noon–2pm and 6.30–9pm (all day in summer), Sun noon–4.30pm, 6–8.30pm.
In the village of Horstead, near Coltishall, this gastropub is a great place for locally caught fish and seafood, Norfolk beef and pork and Sunday roasts. The menu is more sophisticated than the average Norfolk pub, but you can just opt for fish and chips. ££
Hickling
The Green; tel: 01692-598 306; https://en-gb.facebook.com/greyhoundhickling; food: daily noon–8.30pm.
An alluring country pub with a good choice of well-kept local and guest real ales. Meat and seasonal produce is locally sourced wherever possible – Cromer crabs are a favourite in summer. Meals can be taken on the sunny front terrace, in the cottage garden, by a roaring fire or in the more formal dining room. ££
Horning
27 Lower Street; tel: 01692-631 421; www.burerivercottagerestaurant.co.uk; Tue–Sat 6–9pm.
A heaven for pescatarians. Start with baked Cromer crab with chilli and ginger and move on to pan-fried local skate wing. Top it off with a delicious dessert, such as ginger panna cotta with roasted rhubarb. ££
Horsey
The Street; tel: 01493-393 378; food: summer daily noon–9pm; winter Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 6–8.30pm, Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon–4pm.
This is a real traditional Norfolk pub, where walkers, boaters and locals are welcomed with local Woodforde’s ales, home-made meals, a roaring fire in winter and a large garden for summer. Unsurprisingly, Nelson memorabilia forms part of the decor. ££