All successful cooking lies in using quality ingredients, but never is this maxim more true than when working with fish. Seafood must be absolutely pristine—glistening, sweet smelling, ocean fresh—or it will not be flavorful when cooked. The good news in this department is that neighborhood supermarkets, in response to consumers’ demands, are stepping up the quality and selection in their seafood sections.
Because much of my career in the kitchen has focused on the preparation of fish, I have worked hard to cultivate relationships with individual purveyors of quality seafood so that I might offer diners the best and brightest of the world’s oceans and lakes.
Cooking fish well is, to me, one of the most challenging tasks in the kitchen. And some of the dishes in this section do require some skill to master. I know that not many home cooks have had experience preparing a delicate piece of Dover sole crusted with potato scales or egg-battered abalone (which will toughen when cooked too long). If you are in this category, do not let these recipes intimidate you. These are not all that difficult, but they do require some thought and care.
If you cannot get the type of fish called for in the recipe, check the substitution I have noted. Then think about the type of fish called for—is it flaky? Oily? Meaty? Do not be too concerned about starting with the exact fish called for in the recipe but do be concerned with starting with the correct type of fish. Learn to improvise with and take advantage of the best your fish market has to offer.
Once you have the perfect piece of fish, great care must be taken when cooking it. In the restaurant, all fish is cooked to order, which I realize is not so easy to do at home. However, there is no other way I know to serve a perfectly cooked piece of fish without preparing it just before serving. Although this often requires very little time and preparation, it is absolutely essential that, no matter how it is cooked, it not be overcooked. When pan-searing, move the fish as little as possible to minimize sticking and to avoid tearing the flesh.
Seafood is an integral part of my repertoire and, in truth, I love working with every type. I have found that every species of finfish and shellfish has its own personality and unique traits which, over the years, I have learned to finesse. The four fish trios in this chapter offer a great range in texture, flavor, and preparation. I hope they present a challenge that you will enjoy.
CAULIFLOWER PURÉE, CHAMPAGNE BEURRE BLANC, CHAMPAGNE AÏOLI
ROASTED SWEET ONION PURÉE, MALT VINEGAR BEURRE BLANC,
CLASSIC TARTAR SAUCE
TRUFFLE SALSIFY, BEURRE ROUGE, TRUFFLE AÏOLI
THIS IS MY DRESSED-UP VERSION OF THE FINE BRITISH DISH FISH AND CHIPS. ON A WINDY DAY, PIPING-HOT FRIED FISH AND POTATOES SMOTHERED IN TARTAR SAUCE AND DOUSED WITH MALT VINEGAR SIMPLY CANNOT BE BEAT. I HAD A LITTLE FUN PLAYING WITH THE CONCEPT BY SHINGLING THE POTATO CHIPS RIGHT ON THE FISH TO REPLICATE SCALES. I NAMED THE ORIGINAL INCARNATION CHIPS ON FISH. FOR THE VARIATIONS, CAULIFLOWER, ONION, AND SALSIFY ARE LUSH VEGETABLES THAT ADD AN EARTHY BACKDROP TO THE WHIMSICAL THEME. THE AÏOLIS AND TARTAR SAUCE MAY BE PREPARED A DAY IN ADVANCE, COVERED AND REFRIGERATED.
DOMAINE ROULOT MEURSAULT ‘CHARMES’ 1ER CRU, BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2002
A great Burgundy will uplift the individual flavors and enhance the texture of this dish. Domaine Roulot is one of the stellar producers of Chardonnay in the world. Their electrifying wines are extremely rich and have a crisp acidic balance. Any Chardonnay can be substituted as long as it is rich and crisp.
SERVES 4
Dover sole is definitely a king among fish; it is the most delectable of the flatfish family, boasting a subtle flavor and a fine creamy texture that is just firm enough to hold together when you cut into it. Imported from England, Dover sole may be difficult to find, but domestic flounders such as petrale sole, lemon sole, and sand dab are good alternatives.
| 8 | RUSSET POTATOES, PEELED |
| 2 1/2 | CUPS WARM CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS POTATO STARCH SOLE (POTATO FLOUR) |
| FOUR 6-OUNCE DOVER SOLE OR PETRALE SOLE FILLETS, SKIN REMOVED | |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
USING A 1-INCH ring mold or round cookie cutter, cut the potatoes lengthwise into perfectly rounded logs. Place the potato logs in a saucepan of salted cold water to cover by 1 inch. Place over low heat and cook for 15 minutes. Do not fully cook or boil, or the potatoes may become mushy. They should be completely translucent when sliced.
DRAIN THE POTATOES and cool completely. Using a mandoline or very sharp knife, slice the potatoes into paper-thin rounds, about the thickness of potato chips.
IN A LARGE bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups of the Clarified Butter with the potato starch; it should look a bit soupy. Add the sliced potatoes, stirring gently to coat in the butter mixture. Do this in a timely manner before the butter cools and begins to solidify.
LINE A SHEET pan or cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay the fish fillets, skin side up, on the pan. Shingle the potato slices along the top of each fillet, overlapping slightly to resemble fish scales. When completely covered, place the fish in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to set. (Once cooled, the butter and starch mixture will act as the glue to hold the potatoes together.)
PLACE A LARGE sauté pan over medium heat, add 1/2 cup of the Clarified Butter and swirl it around the pan to coat. When the butter is hot, carefully lay 2 fillets in the pan, potato side down. Season the fish lightly with salt and pepper. Do not move the fish at all until the crust has a chance to crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Carefully flip the fillets over and cook until the fish is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the fish to a side plate and season the top with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining 2 fillets, adding more Clarified Butter as necessary to keep the fish from sticking.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
CAULIFLOWER PURÉE
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 1/2 | HEAD CAULIFLOWER COARSELY CHOPPED (APPROXIMATELY 3 CUPS) |
| 2 | CUPS HEAVY CREAM |
| 2 | CUPS WHOLE MILK |
| 1/4 | CUP (1/2 STICK) PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND WHITE PEPPER |
PUT THE CAULIFLOWER in a saucepan and cover with the cream and milk. Add the 1/4 cup butter and place over medium-low heat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the florets are tender, about 15 minutes. Do not boil or the cream will overflow.
USING A SLOTTED spoon, transfer the cauliflower to a food processor. Add 1/4 cup of the hot cream mixture and pulse to combine. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and purée until smooth and creamy. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
CHAMPAGNE BEURRE BLANC
MAKES 1 CUP
| BEURRE BLANC (PAGE 220) | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY CHAMPAGNE |
| 1/4 | CUP CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR |
| 1/2 | HEAD CAULIFLOWER, STEMS TRIMMED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PREPARE THE BEURRE Blanc as directed on page 220, using the champagne and champagne vinegar.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F.
PLACE THE CAULIFLOWER in a baking dish, drizzle with the oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Roast until the cauliflower is tender and slightly charred on the edges, 15 to 20 minutes. Chop the cauliflower into small pieces.
JUST BEFORE SERVING, fold the cauliflower into the Beurre Blanc.
CHAMPAGNE AÏOLI
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR |
| 1 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
GARNISH
| 1/2 | OUNCE CAVIAR, PREFERABLY OSETRA |
PLACE THE YOLK and vinegar in a blender or food processor and process until combined. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil in a thin steady stream until emulsified and thick. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the aïoli to a container, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Spoon 1/2 cup of the Cauliflower Purée onto each of 4 plates and spread it into a large circle with the back of the spoon. Lay a piece of Dover Sole on top, potato side up. Drizzle Champagne Beurre Blanc around the fish, being sure to evenly distribute the pieces of cauliflower. Put a dollop of Champagne Aïoli on top and garnish with a little caviar.
ROASTED SWEET ONION PURÉE
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 2 | LARGE SWEET ONIONS, SUCH AS VIDALIA, MAUI, OR WALLA WALLA, UNPEELED AND QUARTERED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/2 | CUP (1 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F.
PLACE THE ONIONS in a baking dish, drizzle with the oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Transfer to the oven and roast until the onions are completely tender and beginning to burst, about 30 minutes.
REMOVE THE FOIL and let the onions cool a bit. When cool enough to handle, peel and discard the skins. Place the onions in a blender or food processor and process until chunky. Add the butter and blend until smooth and thick. Season generously with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
MALT VINEGAR BEURRE BLANC
MAKES 3/4 CUP
| BEURRE BLANC (PAGE 220) | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1/4 | CUP MALT VINEGAR |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1 | LARGE SWEET ONION, SUCH AS VIDALIA, MAUI, OR WALLA WALLA, THINLY SLICED (ABOUT 2 CUPS) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/2 | CUP CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
PREPARE THE BEURRE Blanc as directed on page 220, using the dry white wine and malt vinegar.
MELT THE BUTTER in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and stir to coat. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer for 10 more minutes until reduced by one-third.
JUST BEFORE SERVING, fold the onions into the Beurre Blanc.
CLASSIC TARTAR SAUCE
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FRESH LEMON JUICE |
| 1 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 2 | CORNICHONS, DRAINED AND CHOPPED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS MINCED RED ONION |
| 1 | TABLESPOON FINELY GRATED LEMON ZEST |
| 1 | TABLESPOON DRIED ONION FLAKES |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CAPERS, DRAINED AND CHOPPED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
PLACE THE YOLK and lemon juice in a blender or food processor and process until combined. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil in a thin steady stream until emulsified and thick, about 1 minute.
TRANSFER THE MAYONNAISE to a bowl and add the cornichons, red onion, lemon zest, dried onion, capers, and parsley. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
GARNISH
| 4 | CHIVE BLOSSOMS OR CHIVE POINTS |
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Spoon 1/2 cup of the Roasted Onion Purée on each of 4 plates and spread into a large circle with the back of the spoon. Lay a piece of Dover Sole on top, potato side up. Drizzle the Malt Vinegar Beurre Blanc around the fish, being sure to evenly distribute the onions. Put a dollop of Tartar Sauce on top and garnish with a chive blossom.
TRUFFLE SALSIFY
Salsify resembles a thin parsnip and has a starchy potato-like texture that is satiny when puréed. When peeling salsify, put them in a bowl of water acidulated with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
| 1 | POUND SALSIFY, PEELED AND CUT INTO 3-INCH PIECES |
| 2 | CUPS HEAVY CREAM |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS TRUFFLE BUTTER (SEE SOURCES, PAGE 242) |
PLACE THE SALSIFY in a large saucepan and cover with the cream. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Simmer over medium-low heat until the salsify is fork tender, about 30 minutes.
USING A SLOTTED spoon or tongs, transfer the salsify to a food processor and reserve the cream. Add the truffle butter and 1/4 cup of the warm cream to the salsify. Purée until smooth and creamy. Generously season with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
BEURRE ROUGE
MAKES 1 CUP
| BEURRE ROUGE (PAGE 220) | |
| 1 | CUP DRY RED WINE, SUCH AS CABERNET SAUVIGNON |
| 1/4 | CUP RED WINE VINEGAR |
| 4 | STALKS SALSIFY, SLICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SUGAR |
PREPARE THE BEURRE Rouge as directed on page 220, using 1/2 cup of the red wine and the red wine vinegar.
COMBINE THE SALSIFY, sugar, and remaining 1/2 cup red wine in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer until the salsify is tender and a deep burgundy red, about 15 minutes.
JUST BEFORE SERVING, fold in the salsify.
TRUFFLE AÏOLI
MAKES 1 CUP
| 1 | LARGE EGG YOLK |
| 1 | TABLESPOON TRUFFLE VINEGAR (SEE SOURCES, PAGE 242) |
| 1 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS WHITE TRUFFLE OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHOPPED TRUFFLE SHAVINGS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
GARNISH
| 4 | PAPER-THIN SLICES FRESH TRUFFLE |
PLACE THE YOLK and vinegar in a blender or food processor and process until combined. With the motor running, drizzle in the canola oil in a thin steady stream until emulsified and thick. Drizzle in the truffle oil and process to blend.
TRANSFER THE MAYONNAISE into a bowl and fold in the truffle shavings. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Mix well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Spoon 1/2 cup of the Truffle Salsify onto each of 4 plates and spread into a large circle with the back of the spoon. Lay a piece of Dover Sole on top, potato side up. Drizzle the Beurre Rouge around the fish, being sure to evenly distribute the salsify. Put a dollop of Truffle Aïoli on top and garnish with a shaving of truffle.
BLACK BELUGA LENTILS, CARAMELIZED PARSNIP AND MEYER LEMON CONFIT,
CORIANDER OIL
RED LENTILS, CARAMELIZED PUMPKIN AND BLOOD ORANGE CONFIT,
CURRY OIL
FRENCH GREEN LENTILS, CARAMELIZED PARSLEY ROOT
AND RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT, CARDAMOM OIL
WHEN I SET OUT TO CREATE A NEW DISH, SEASONALITY PLAYS A VITAL ROLE. THIS DISH FLAUNTS A DEEPLY SATISFYING COMPOSITION OF WINTER INGREDIENTS AND IS IDEAL TO ENJOY WHEN THERE IS A CHILL IN THE AIR. THE HEARTY LENTILS OFFSET THE CRISPY SKIN OF THE FISH AND THE CRACKLING PORK BELLY. THERE IS PLENTY OF DENSITY GOING ON, SO IT IS REALLY IMPORTANT TO BALANCE THE WEIGHT SO THE DISH IS NOT TOO HEAVY. ADDING ACIDITY IS A FUNDAMENTAL WAY TO DO SO, AND SOME OF THE STRONGEST ACIDIC FLAVORS COME FROM CITRUS. IN THIS DISH, THE JEWEL-TONED FRUITS USED IN THE CONFITS NOT ONLY ADD A SPLASH OF COLOR, BUT ALSO PROVIDE SOME RELIEF FROM THE RICHNESS. MEYER LEMON, BLOOD ORANGE, AND RUBY GRAPEFRUIT HAVE A MODERATE ACIDIC LEVEL AND MORE SWEETNESS THAN THEIR EVERYDAY COUNTERPARTS. FRAGRANT SPICES ADD A POWERFUL PUNCH TO ROUND OUT THE EARTHY INTENSITY. CORIANDER HAS A DISTINCTIVELY CITRUSY AND MUSTY AROMA, CURRY HAS A FIERY AND SMOKY FLAVOR, AND CARDAMOM HAS A FLORAL GRAPEFRUIT-LIKE ESSENCE CONTAINING SOME WOODY UNDERTONE S. THIS VIBRANT COMBINATION COMES ACROSS WITH MARVELOUS CLARITY AND DIMENSION.
DOMAINE DUJAC CHAMBOLLE MUSIGNY, BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2002
A perfumey Pinot Noir from Burgundy is the answer for this complex dish. This soft and velvety wine has rich flavors of black cherry, cola, cumin, olive, and cardamom. The wine also has a sweetness and freshness that will carry the spices for ward. Any Pinot Noir will work as long as it is not too heavy. Rich white wines such as Roussanne and Viognier can also be used.
Black bass is commonly caught off the coastal waters of Rhode Island. The most attractive feature of this sea bass is its unique exterior—a black-and-white checkerboard-like appearance with brilliant texture and taste. When properly cooked, the crispy, edible skin has a lot of character and is my absolute favorite part of the fish. The sweet, mild, white flesh has a distinct flavor and its low oil content makes it very lean. The natural oils in the skin seal in the fish’s delicate moisture, particularly when it is seared in clarified butter.
| FOUR | 6-OUNCE BLACK BASS FILLETS, SKIN ON |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
SEASON THE FISH well on both sides with salt and pepper. Place a large sauté pan over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the clarified butter, and swirl it around the pan to coat. When the butter is hot, carefully lay 2 fillets in the pan, skin side down. Gently press the fish with the back of a spatula so it does not curl up as it cooks. Cook until the skin is crisp and nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully flip the fillets over and cook the flesh side for just a few seconds to seal it. Transfer the fish to a platter and cover to keep warm.
REPEAT WITH THE 2 remaining fillets, adding more Clarified Butter as needed to keep the fish from sticking.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the recipe you are making.
Pork belly, which comes from the underside of the hog, is basically uncured fresh bacon. The rosy meat is marbled with fat and when braised for hours (as it is here), the pork becomes so custardy soft that you can cut it with a spoon. The succulent fat crowned with a crackling skin is what makes it taste so damn delicious! Pork belly is typically an inexpensive cut, and a good butcher should carry it. Ask for unsalted, uncured belly, which is not the same as slab bacon or salt pork. Pork belly can also be found in Asian markets, as it is frequently used in that cuisine.
| 1 | POUND PORK BELLY, EXCESS FAT TRIMMED AND SCORED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 3 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 6 | CLOVES GARLIC, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1/4 | CUP COARSELY CHOPPED FRESH THYME |
| 1/4 | CUP COARSELY CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY SPRIGS |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC 1 QUART CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
HEAVILY SEASON BOTH sides of the pork belly with salt and pepper. Place a Dutch oven or deep ovenproof skillet over medium-low heat and coat with 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the oil gets hazy, lay the pork belly in the pan and sear until the fat begins to render and crisp and the meat is brown, 10 minutes on each side.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 350°F.
TRANSFER THE PORK belly to a side platter and carefully pour out all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat. Add the onion, garlic, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Sweat the vegetables in the pork fat, stirring often, until soft, about 15 minutes.
ADD THE WINE and continue to cook and stir until the liquid is reduced and looks syrupy, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat up to high, add the stock, and bring to a boil.
RETURN THE PORK belly to the pan; the liquid should just barely cover the meat. Cover tightly and transfer to the oven. Braise until the pork is very tender and a fork slides into the meat without any resistance, about 2 1/2 hours. Let the pork belly cool completely in the braising liquid. (The dish can be prepared to this point the night before and kept covered and refrigerated.)
REMOVE THE PORK from the liquid and pat dry with paper towels to eliminate any excess moisture and remove any solidified fat from the surface. Pass the pork cooking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer; you should have about 5 cups to use for cooking the lentils. Discard the solids.
USING A SHARP knife, cut the pork into 4 equal portions. Generously season the pieces of pork belly with salt and pepper.
HEAT A CAST-IRON skillet or deep ovenproof pan over medium heat and coat with the remaining tablespoon of oil. Once hot, place the pork belly in the pan, fat side down. Sear until the fat forms a very crispy crust, 5 to 10 minutes. Turn the pork over and cook the other side for another 5 minutes to brown the meat.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
This recipe can be made using any type of citrus—if preparing more than one variety at a time, use separate pans to avoid crossover flavor. The leftover citrus-infused Simple Syrup is ideal to keep on hand to sweeten iced tea or mixed drinks. The softened citrus peels are handy to brighten up desserts and sauces or as a garnish. (Use the fruit for the variation you are making.)
| 2 | MEYER OR REGULAR LEMONS, BLOOD ORANGES, OR RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT, WELL-SCRUBBED |
| 1 | QUART SIMPLE SYRUP (PAGE 225) |
| 5 | FRESH THYME SPRIGS |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
USING A VEGETABLE peeler, remove the zest of the citrus, being careful to avoid the white pith. Cut the zest into long strips.
PLACE THE CITRUS zest in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for 30 seconds and then drain the water. Repeat this process 2 more times with fresh water to soften the citrus skin and remove any bitterness. Drain the blanched zest in a strainer.
COMBINE THE SIMPLE Syrup, thyme, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the citrus zest and stir to submerge it in the liquid. Reduce the heat to low and gently simmer until the zest is tender and becomes translucent, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer, reserving the syrup. Rinse the peel thoroughly with cold water. (The confit can be stored in the poaching liquid, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.)
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the recipe you are making.
BLACK BELUGA LENTILS
| 2 | PARSNIPS, PEELED AND HALVED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CORIANDER SEEDS |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 10 | SPRIGS FRESH CILANTRO |
| 1 | LEMON VERBENA LEAF |
| 1 | STALK CELERY, HALVED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 6 | CUPS (1 1/2 QUARTS) RESERVED PORK BELLY COOKING LIQUID |
| 1 | CUP DRIED BELUGA LENTILS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FRESH MEYER LEMON JUICE |
| 1/4 | CUP (1/2 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CHUNKS |
COMBINE THE PARSNIPS, coriander, peppercorns, cilantro, verbena leaf, celery, and garlic in a double layer of cheesecloth, gather up the ends, and tie closed with kitchen string.
POUR THE PORK cooking liquid into a saucepan and place over low heat. Add the lentils and parsnip sachet and gently simmer, uncovered, until the lentils are soft, but not falling apart, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
REMOVE AND DISCARD the sachet; there should still be about 1/2 cup of broth left in the pan. Stir in the lemon juice. Add the butter, stirring until melted.
CARAMELIZED PARSNIP AND MEYER LEMON CONFIT
| 1/2 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON GROUND CORIANDER |
| 1 | PARSNIP, PEELED AND DICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | MEYER LEMON, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED MEYER LEMON CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES, FOR GARNISH |
COMBINE THE OIL and coriander in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until fragrant, about 10 minutes; do not let boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to steep for 10 minutes to further infuse the flavor. Strain and discard the solids.
PLACE THE CORIANDER oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the parsnips, tossing to coat in the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Fry until the parsnips are tender and slightly charred on the edges, about 6 minutes. Add the lemon segments and Meyer Lemon Confit, tossing to combine. Heat through for a minute.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Beluga Lentils among 4 plates, letting the broth puddle in the center. Lay a slice of Pork Belly on the lentils, crispy side up. Set a piece of Seared Black Bass across the top, skin side up. Spoon 2 generous tablespoons of the Parsnip and Lemon Confit around the plate, drizzling any remaining coriander oil on top. Garnish with cilantro leaves.
RED LENTILS
| 1/4 | SMALL PUMPKIN, PEELED, SEEDED, AND CUT INTO CHUNKS |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | SPRIG FRESH ROSEMARY |
| 1 | FRESH CURRY LEAF |
| 1 | STALK CELERY, HALVED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 6 | CUPS (1 1/2 QUARTS) RESERVED PORK BELLY COOKING LIQUID |
| 1 | CUP DRIED RED LENTILS |
| 1 | TABLESPOON YELLOW THAI CURRY |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH BLOOD ORANGE JUICE |
| 1/4 | CUP (1/2 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CHUNKS |
COMBINE THE PUMPKIN, peppercorns, rosemary, curry leaf, celery, and garlic in a double layer of cheesecloth, gather up the ends, and tie closed with kitchen string.
POUR THE PORK cooking liquid into a saucepan and place over low heat. Add the lentils, curry, and pumpkin sachet and gently simmer, uncovered, until the lentils are soft, but not falling apart, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
REMOVE AND DISCARD the sachet; there should still be about 1/2 cup of broth left in the pan. Stir in the orange juice. Add the butter, stirring until melted.
CARAMELIZED PUMPKIN AND BLOOD ORANGE CONFIT
| 1/2 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON THAI YELLOW CURRY |
| 1/4 | SMALL PUMPKIN, PEELED, SEEDED, AND CUT INTO CHUNKS (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | BLOOD ORANGE, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED BLOOD ORANGE CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| MINCED FRESH CHIVES, FOR GARNISH |
COMBINE THE OIL and curry in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until fragrant, about 10 minutes; do not let boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to steep for 10 minutes to further infuse the flavor. Strain and discard the solids.
PLACE THE CURRY oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the pumpkin, tossing to coat in the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Fry until the pumpkin is tender and slightly charred on the edges, about 6 minutes. Add the blood orange segments and Blood Orange Confit, tossing to combine. Heat through for a minute.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Red Lentils among 4 plates, letting the broth puddle in the center. Lay a slice of Pork Belly on the lentils, crispy side up. Set a piece of the Seared Black Bass across the top, skin side up. Spoon 2 generous tablespoons of the Pumpkin and Blood Orange Confit around the plate, drizzling any remaining curry oil on top. Garnish with minced chives.
FRENCH GREEN LENTILS
| 1 | SMALL PARSLEY ROOT OR CELERY ROOT, PEELED AND CUT INTO CHUNKS |
| 6 | CARDAMOM PODS |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 6 | SPRIGS FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | STALK CELERY, HALVED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 5 | CUPS (1 1/4 QUARTS) RESERVED PORK BELLY COOKING LIQUID |
| 1 | CUP DRIED FRENCH GREEN LENTILS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FRESH RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT JUICE |
| 1/4 | CUP (1/2 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CHUNKS |
COMBINE THE PARSLEY root, cardamom, peppercorns, parsley, bay leaf, celery, and garlic in a double layer of cheesecloth, gather up the ends, and tie closed with kitchen string.
POUR THE PORK cooking liquid into a saucepan and place over low heat. Add the lentils, curry, and parsley sachet and gently simmer, uncovered, until the lentils are soft, but not falling apart, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
REMOVE AND DISCARD the sachet; there should still be about 1/2 cup of broth left in the pan. Stir in the orange juice. Add the butter, stirring until melted.
CARAMELIZED PARSLEY ROOT AND RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT
| 1/2 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 4 | CARDAMOM PODS, COARSELY CRACKED |
| 1 | CUP DICED PARSLEY ROOT OR CELERY ROOT |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT CONFIT (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1 | SMALL RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY LEAVES, FOR GARNISH |
COMBINE THE OIL and cardamom in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until fragrant, about 10 minutes; do not let boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to steep for 10 minutes to further infuse the flavor. Strain and discard the solids.
PLACE THE CARDAMOM oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the diced parsley root, tossing to coat in the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Fry until the parsley is tender and slightly charred on the edges, about 6 minutes. Add the grapefruit segments and the Ruby Red Grapefruit Confit, tossing to combine. Heat through for a minute.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Divide the Green Lentils among 4 plates, letting broth puddle in the center. Lay a slice of Pork Belly on the lentils, crispy side up. Set a piece of Seared Black Bass across the top, skin side up. Spoon 2 generous tablespoons of the Parsley Root and Grapefruit Confit around the plate, drizzling any remaining cardamom oil on top. Garnish with a few fresh parsley leaves.
GARLIC-BASIL BROWN BUTTER WITH PINE NUTS AND EGGPLANT,
TOMATO CREAM
CAPER-TARRAGON BROWN BUTTER WITH WHITE ANCHOVIES AND ZUCCHINI,
GREEN GODDESS CREAM
PEARL ONION–PARSLEY BROWN BUTTER WITH OLIVES AND PEPPERS,
BLACK OLIVE CREAM
I AM A HUGE FAN OF ABALONE AND EAT IT PREPAED MANY DIFFERENT WAYS. IF PRESSED, I WOULD HAVE TO SAY EGG-BATTERED ABALONE WOULD BE MY REQUESTED LAST MEAL. I ALSO LOVE ABALONE THAT’S BEEN QUICKLY SEARED ON A GRILL, THEN GARNISHED WITH ONLY A SPRITZ OF LEMON JUICE. ABALONE IS COVETED FOR ITS SIZE, THICKNESS, AND DELICATE FLAVOR; HOWEVER, IT HAS A NATURAL CHEWY QUALITY SIMILAR TO CALAMARI, WHICH MAKES IT ESSENTIAL TO TENDERIZE WITH A MALLET. HERE, ITS MEATY NATURE CARRIES THE MEDITERRANEAN GARNISHES HOME, PAIRING PERFECTLY WITH THE SHARP-SALTY EDGE OF CAPERS, ANCHOVIES, AND OLIVES, DYNAMIC INGREDIENTS THAT MAKE THE DISH POP. THE PASTA IS THE THREAD THAT WEAVES TOGETHER ALL OF THE POTENT FLAVORS IN THIS TRIO. WHEN COOKING ABALONE, TIMING IS KEY; IT HAS TO BE SERVED HOT AND CANNOT SIT TOO LONG ONCE IT IS COOKED OR IT BECOMES RUBBERY. IN THE RESTAURANT, THIS WINDOW OF OPPORTUNITY IS ALWAYS A CHALLENGE DURING SERVICE, WHEN ORDERS ARE POURING IN. WHEN ATTEMPTING THIS DISH AT HOME, GET ALL THE COMPONENTS TOGETHER FIRST AND PREPARE THE ABALONE AT THE LAST MOMENT TO MAINTAIN ITS MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH TEXTURE.
ABALONE IS NOT EASILY FOUND IN THE MIDWEST OR EAST. SEE THE SOURCES (PAGE 242) FOR A PURVEYOR. CALAMARI MAY BE SUBSTITUTED.
FROM APRIL THROUGH NOVEMBER, AN EXCLUSIVE SUBCULTURE OF ADVENTUROUS DIVERS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA TAKES THE PLUNGE AND RISKS THEIR LIVES TO HARVEST ABALONE. THIS GOURMET GASTROPOD IS PRIZED BOTH FOR ITS LUSCIOUS FLAVOR AND OPALES-CENT MOTHER-OF-PEARL SHELL. POPULAR OFF THE SONOMA AND MENDOCINO COASTS, “AB DIVING,” AS IT IS CALLED LOCALLY, CAN BE A DANGEROUS ENDEAVOR. ABALONE TUCK THEMSELVES INTO THE DEEPEST CRACKS, CLINGING TO REEFS WHERE SEAWEED AND KELP ARE GROWING ON THE ROCKS AROUND THEM. THEY ARE WELL CAMOUFLAGED, SUCTIONED TIGHTLY IN DARK CREVICES AND HARD-TO-REACH PLACES. LAW FORBIDS SCUBA TANKS, SO YOU ARE RESTRICTED TO FREE-DIVE AND BASICALLY HOLD YOUR BREATH WHILE PRYING THE SNAIL-LIKE DELICACY FROM THE DEPTHS AND BRINGING THE TROPHY TO SHORE. SUFFICE IT TO SAY, DIVING FOR YOUR DINNER IS NOT AN EASY ACHIEVEMENT.
TO PRESERVE THE BEAUTIFUL IRIDESCENT ABALONE SHELLS, SOAK THEM IN BLEACH WATER FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS TO REMOVE ANY ALGAE, THEN RUN THEM THROUGH THE DISH-WASHER A COUPLE OF TIMES TO CLEAN COMPLETELY.
DOMAINE WEINBACH RIESLING ‘SCHLOSSBERG’ ST. CATHERINE, ALSACE, FRANCE 2002
Abalone needs a crisp and clean wine that will accentuate its sweet flavor, but it also needs a rich wine with acidity. This Riesling is dry and has a lot of intensity and power with a core mineral flavor. This exotic wine will cut through the flavored butter and add to the complexity of the abalone. A good alternative is a Chablis.
SERVES 4
| EIGHT | 4-TO 5-OUNCE LIVE ABALONE, SHELLED AND CLEANED, OR LARGE CALAMARI TUBES, CLEANED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 1 | CUP WONDRA FLOUR |
| 4 | LARGE EGGS |
| 1 | CUP CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
LINE A LARGE platter with a double thickness of paper towels and set aside.
LAY THE ABALONE side by side between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and place on a cutting board. Working from the center of the meat outward, gently pound the abalone with a meat mallet until they are about 1/4 inch thick. Season both sides with salt and pepper.
PLACE THE FLOUR in a shallow platter. In a shallow bowl, whisk together the eggs with 2 tablespoons of water to make an egg wash.
WORKING WITH 4 pieces at a time, dredge both sides of the abalone in the flour, then dip in the egg wash to coat completely, letting most of the excess drip off (you want enough egg to form a light crust).
PLACE 1/2 CUP of the Clarified Butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter is nice and hot, add the abalone and fry until golden, less than 1 minute on each side. Do not overcook or the abalone will become tough and rubbery. Transfer the abalone to the prepared platter in a single layer and lightly season with salt. Cover to keep warm. Add the remaining Clarified Butter to the pan and repeat with the other 4 pieces of abalone.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
MAKES 1/2 CUP
| 1/2 | CUP (1 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON FRESH LEMON JUICE |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CHICKEN STOCK (PAGE 222) |
PLACE THE BUTTER in a large sauté pan over medium heat and cook until it is foamy and just starts to brown on the edges. Swirl the pan occasionally to keep the color even. When a light brown color is achieved and the butter smells nutty, add the lemon juice; this will stop the butter from continuing to brown and potentially burn. The butter will bubble up. When the bubbles have died down, add the stock and generously season with salt and pepper. Brown butter sauce generally needs a fair amount of seasoning to prevent it from tasting oily.
RAISE THE HEAT slightly and bring the butter to a boil in order to emulsify and thicken it. Once thick, add ingredients for the variations you are making as directed in the recipe.
PASTA DOUGH
MAKES 1 1/2 POUNDS FET TUCCINE
| 1 1/2 | CUPS SEMOLINA FLOUR |
| 1/2 | CUP ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR, PLUS MORE FOR DUSTING |
| 1 | TEASPOON SALT |
| 3 | LARGE EGGS |
IN AN ELECTRIC mixer fitted with a dough hook or paddle attachment, combine the semolina and all-purpose flours and salt. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, and continue to mix until the dough forms a mass.
SPRINKLE SOME ALL-PURPOSE flour on a clean, flat work surface. Place the dough in the center of the flour and knead and fold the dough until it is elastic and smooth. Gather the dough into a ball and wrap tightly in plastic. Set aside in a warm place to rest for about 30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.
CUT THE DOUGH in half, wrap one half in plastic to prevent it from drying out while you work with the first piece. Flatten and shape the dough with your hands into a rectangle and roll it 2 or 3 times through the pasta machine, at the widest setting. If it sticks, dust with a little more flour. Pull and stretch the sheet of dough with the palm of your hand as it emerges from the rollers. Reduce the setting and crank the dough through 2 or 3 more times. Continue tightening and rolling until the sheet is approximately 12 inches long and about 1/4 inch thick (you should be able to see your hand through it). Set the sheet aside on a floured sheet pan and repeat the process with the remaining piece of dough.
WHEN BOTH SHEETS are done, cut them in half crosswise. Using the fettuccine attachment, run the sheets through the cutting slot. Separate the strands and put the noodles on a lightly floured baking sheet. Allow to dry for about 10 minutes before cooking.
WHEN READY TO cook, bring a large stockpot of salted water to boil over high heat. Add the fettuccine and boil for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Quickly drain the pasta and toss it with the cream sauce for the variation you are making.
GARLIC-BASIL BROWN BUTTER WITH PINE NUTS AND EGGPLANT
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
| 6 | CLOVES GARLIC, SLICED (ABOUT 1/4 CUP) |
| 1/2 | CUP WARM BROWN BUTTER (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1 | JAPANESE EGGPLANT, CUT INTO SMALL DICE (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 20 | SWEET 100 TOMATOES, HALVED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH BASIL LEAVES, CHOPPED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS PINE NUTS, LIGHTLY TOASTED |
PLACE THE GARLIC in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and immediately drain out the water. Repeat this process 2 more times with fresh water. This will soften the garlic and remove any bitterness.
PLACE THE BROWN Butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Fold in the eggplant and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté for 1 to 2 minutes to tenderize the eggplant. Add the tomatoes, basil, and pine nuts, tossing a few seconds to combine.
TOMATO CREAM
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 4 | FRESH BASIL LEAVES |
| 2 | SHALLOTS, CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS HEAVY CREAM |
| 8 | SUN-DRIED TOMATOES IN OIL, DRAINED AND CHOPPED |
COMBINE THE BASIL, shallots, wine, and peppercorns in a small saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Place over low heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes.
ADD THE CREAM and simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan and discard the solids.
PLACE THE PAN over medium heat and stir in the sun-dried tomatoes. Simmer until just tender and heated through, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Slip the Sautéed Abalone into the Garlic-Basil Brown Butter to heat through, turning to coat. Using a large fork, twirl servings of the coated fettuccine tightly into nests and place on each of 4 plates. Lean 2 Sautéed Abalone against the pasta and spoon the Garlic-Basil Brown Butter on top and around each plate.
CAPER-TARRAGON BROWN BUTTER WITH WHITE ANCHOVIES AND ZUCCHINI
| 1/2 | CUP WARM BROWN BUTTER (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1 | SMALL GREEN ZUCCHINI, DICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| 1 | SMALL YELLOW ZUCCHINI, DICED (ABOUT 1 CUP) |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 4 | MARINATED WHITE ANCHOVIES, DRAINED AND CHOPPED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH TARRAGON |
| 2 | LEMONS, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CAPERS, DRAINED |
PLACE THE BROWN Butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Fold in the green and yellow zucchini. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté for 1 to 2 minutes to tenderize the squash. Add the anchovies, tarragon, lemon, and capers, tossing a few seconds to combine.
GREEN GODDESS CREAM
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 2 | SHALLOTS, CHOPPED |
| ZEST OF 1 LEMON, FINELY GRATED | |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 4 | SPRIGS FRESH TARRAGON |
| 4 | SPRIGS FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS HEAVY CREAM |
| 8 | CHIVES, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | CUP WATERCRESS LEAVES, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | CUP FRESH PARSLEY LEAVES |
| 1/4 | CUP FRESH TARRAGON LEAVES |
COMBINE THE SHALLOTS, zest, wine, tarragon and parsley sprigs, and peppercorns in a small saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Place over low heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes.
ADD THE CREAM and simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan and discard the solids.
TRANSFER THE MIXTURE to a blender or food processor and add the chives, watercress, parsley leaves, and tarragon. Process until smooth. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Slip the Sautéed Abalone into the Caper-Tarragon Brown Butter to heat through, turning to coat. Using a large fork, twirl servings of the coated fettuccine tightly into nests and place on each of 4 plates. Lean 2 Sautéed Abalone against the pasta and spoon the Caper-Tarragon Brown Butter on top and around each plate.
PEARL ONION–PARSLEY BROWN BUTTER WITH OLIVES AND PEPPERS
| 15 | RED PEARL ONIONS, PEELED AND QUARTERED |
| 1 | CUP DRY RED WINE, SUCH AS MERLOT |
| 1/2 | CUP WARM BROWN BUTTER (FROM MASTER RECIPE) |
| 1/4 | CUP PICHOLINE OLIVES, PITTED AND SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP NIÇOISE OLIVES, PITTED AND SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED RED BELL PEPPER |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED YELLOW BELL PEPPER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE PEARL onions and wine in a small saucepan over low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until the onions are tender and deep purple, 10 minutes. Drain out any remaining wine.
PLACE THE BROWN Butter in a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Fold in the pearl onions, olives, peppers, and parsley.
SEASON WITH SALT and pepper, tossing a few seconds to soften.
BLACK OLIVE CREAM
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 3 | SPRIGS FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 3 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 2 | SHALLOTS, CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS HEAVY CREAM |
| 1 | CUP NIÇOISE OLIVES, PITTED AND CHOPPED |
COMBINE THE PARSLEY, thyme, shallots, wine, and peppercorns in a small saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Place over low heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 5 minutes.
ADD THE CREAM and simmer until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan and discard the solids. Return to medium heat and mix in the olives. Simmer until just heated through, 1 minute.
TRANSFER THE MIXTURE to a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Slip the Sautéed Abalone into the Onion-Parsley Brown Butter to heat through, turning to coat. Using a large fork, twirl servings of the coated fettuccine tightly into nests and place on each of 4 plates. Lean 2 Sautéed Abalone against the pasta and spoon the Onion-Parsley Brown Butter on top and around each plate.
FRIED SUSHI RICE, SAUTÉED BOK CHOY, GINGER-SOY VINAIGRETTE
DRIED-FRUIT BASMA TI, SAUTÉED SNOW PEAS, SESAME VINAIGRETTE
FORBIDDEN RICE, FRIED JAPANESE EGGPLANT, SPICY LYCHEE VINAIGRETTE
MOST OFTEN WHEN I GO OUT TO DINNER, I CRAVE THE COMPLEXITY OF ASIAN FOOD. BY COMPLEXITY, I DON’T MEAN TRICKY COOKING TECHNIQUES, JUST THE FACT THAT IT TASTES SO RIGHT, FLAVOR-WISE. WHEN EXECUTED WELL, MOST ASIAN CUISINE TYPIFIES THE ZENITH OF SYMMETRY. UNFORTUNATELY, IF EVEN ONE OF THE ELEMENTS IS OUT OF WHACK, THE DISH CAN BE PLAIN TERRIBLE—THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM FOR ERROR. A LOT OF WHAT I BELIEVE ABOUT BOLD AND BALANCED FLAVORS IS WHAT GOOD ASIAN COOKING IS ALL ABOUT. THE ASIAN MEDLEY OF SWEETNESS, ACIDITY, SPICINESS, AND FAT FIRES FULL THROTTLE TO HIT THE RIGHT NOTES IN THIS RECIPE. HOWEVER, IF ANY ONE OF THESE COMPONENTS ISN’T RIGHT, THIS ASIAN-INFLUENCED DISH WILL BEC OMPLETELY WRONG. THEREFORE, WHEN MAKING THIS AT HOME, IT IS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE TO FOLLOW THE EXACT MEASURES TO STRIKE THE CORRECT BALANCE OF FLAVOR.
THE THREE TYPES OF RICE HAVE THEIR OWN APPEAL, EACH EMPHASIZING A DIFFERENT TEXTURE AND FLAVOR. THE CHEWY SHORT-GRAIN SUSHI RICE IS COMPRESSED INTO A CAKE AND FRIED TO MAKE IT DENSE. BASMATI, A VERY LONG-GRAINED RICE WITH A SOFT TEXTURE, LENDS A PERFUMEY, NUTLIKE QUALITY TO ENHANCE THE FLAVORS OF THE DISH. INDIGO-COLORED FORBIDDEN RICE IS NOT ONLY EYE-CATCHING BUT ITS DISTINCTIVE FIRM SHAPE ADDS A TOOTHSOME BITE.
OTHER THAN THE ASSERTIVE FLAVORS, THE LESSON TO LEARN FROM THIS DISH IS THE ADAPTABILITY OF THE BATTER. THE BUTTERMILK AND TAPIOCA FLOUR COATING USED ON THE SNAPPER IS TRULY ALL-PURPOSE. WHENEVER YOU NEED TO BREAD SOMETHING, BE IT CHICKEN OR FISH, THIS BATTER IS A GREAT ONE TO PULL OUT. IT TAKES NO MORE EFFORT THAN DREDGING WITH REGULAR FLOUR, AND THE CRISP TAPIOCA FLOUR CRUST CAN HANDLE BEING BATHED WITH A SAUCE OR VINAIGRETTE WITHOUT GETTING SOGGY.
DR. LOOSEN RIESLING ‘WEHLENER SONNENUHR’ KABINETT, MOSEL, GERMANY 2003
The unique perfume of Riesling will harmonize nicely with this dish. The sweet, sour, and spicy flavors will play very well with this semi-dry wine, and the fresh acidity will accentuate the earthy flavor of the red snapper.
SERVES 4
| FOUR | 6-OUNCE RED SNAPPER FILLETS |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| 2 | CUPS BUTTERMILK |
| 1 | CUP TAPIOCA FLOUR (CASSAVA FLOUR) (SEE SOURCES) |
| 2 | CUPS CORNSTARCH |
| 1 1/2 | CUPS CLARIFIED BUTTER (PAGE 221) |
| 1/2 | CUP (1 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER |
LINE A LARGE platter with a double thickness of paper towels and set aside.
LIBERALLY SEASON BOTH sides of the fish fillets with salt and pepper. Lay them in a single layer in a baking dish and pour the buttermilk over the top, turning to coat.
IN A LARGE shallow platter, combine the tapioca flour and cornstarch.
REMOVE ONE FILLET at a time from the buttermilk bath, letting the excess drip off. Dredge the fish in the flour mixture, coating both sides completely and evenly. The coating should be fairly thick.
PLACE A LARGE sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Pour in 3/4 cup of the Clarified Butter. Once the butter is hot, carefully place 2 fillets in the pan. Press the fish with the back of a spatula so it does not curl up as it cooks. When the edges of the fish begin to brown, add half of the unsalted butter and swirl it around as it melts. Continue cooking until the fish is golden and the crust is crispy on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Carefully turn the fillet over and continue to pan-fry until evenly browned, about 3 more minutes. Transfer the fish to the prepared platter. Season lightly with salt. Repeat the process with the remaining 2 snapper fillets.
FOLLOW THE ASSEMBLY and serving directions for the variation you are making.
FRIED SUSHI RICE
MAKES 8 CAKES
| 1 | CUP SUSHI RICE OR OTHER SHORT-GRAIN WHITE RICE |
| 1 1/4 | CUPS WATER |
| 1/4 | CUP RICE VINEGAR |
| 1 | TABLESPOON SUGAR |
| 1 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| WONDRA FLOUR, FOR DUSTING | |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| CANOLA OIL, FOR FRYING |
PLACE THE RICE in a colander under cold running water and rinse until the water runs clear. Drain well.
COMBINE THE RICE and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. When boiling, stir, cover, and reduce the heat to very low. Simmer until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
COMBINE THE VINEGAR, sugar, and salt in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
TRANSFER THE COOLED rice to a large bowl and drizzle with the vinegar mixture. Using a spatula, gently turn the rice to incorporate the liquid. Do not stir or mix because the grains can be smashed and become mushy. The rice should look shiny, be somewhat sticky, and have a nice balance of tart and sweet flavor.
COAT THE BOTTOM and sides of an 8-by-8-inch baking dish with nonstick spray. Dampen your fingers and spread the rice into the dish, pressing to an even, compact layer, about 1/4 inch thick. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to cool and firm up for at least 15 minutes or up to overnight.
WHEN COOLED AND firm, carefully turn the rice square out onto a cutting board and cut into eight 1-inch-wide rectangular blocks.
LINE A PLATTER with paper towels and set aside.
SPREAD THE FLOUR on a platter and season with salt and pepper. Place 1/4 inch of canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Lightly dust both sides of the rice cakes in the seasoned flour, tapping off the excess. Working in batches, carefully lay the rice cakes in the hot oil. Fry until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Turn and fry the other side until golden, another minute. Transfer the rice cakes to the prepared platter. While they are still hot, season lightly with salt. Cover to keep warm.
SAUTÉED BOK CHOY
| 1 | TABLESPOON CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | TABLESPOON SESAME OIL |
| 1 | SMALL SHALLOT, MINCED |
| 1 | CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1 | TEASPOON MINCED FRESH GINGER |
| 4 | HEADS BABY BOK CHOY, TRIMMED AND QUARTERED |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER | |
| PINCH OF KOREAN RED PEPPER POWDER (KUCHO KARU), OR CAYENNE |
PLACE THE CANOLA and sesame oils in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, and ginger and sauté until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the bok choy and toss to coat. Add 2 tablespoons water so the bok choy wilts a bit. Season with salt, pepper, and red pepper powder. Cover to keep warm.
GINGER-SOY VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 2/3 CUPS
| 1 | CUP WHITE SOY SAUCE (SHIRO SHOYU), SUCH AS MORITA (SEE SOURCES, PAGE 242) |
| 1 | TABLESPOON DARK SOY SAUCE |
| 1/4 | CUP RICE VINEGAR |
| 1 | TABLESPOON MINCED FRESH GINGER |
| 1/2 | CUP RICE BRAN OIL OR CANOLA OIL |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON BLACK SESAME SEEDS |
| 2 | SCALLIONS, WHITE PART ONLY, SLICED |
COMBINE THE WHITE and dark soy, vinegar, and ginger in a small saucepan and place over low heat to infuse the ginger flavor into the liquid, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the oil. Stir in the sesame seeds and scallions. Cover to keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Place 2 Sushi Rice Cakes on each of 4 plates, just off center. Lay some of the Sautéed Bok Choy next to the cakes. Place a piece of the Tapioca-Crusted Red Snapper across the top. Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of the warm Ginger-Soy Vinaigrette over the fish and around each plate, being sure to evenly distribute the ginger, scallions, and sesame seeds in each serving.
DRIED-FRUIT BASMATI
MAKES 4 CUPS
| 1 1/2 | CUPS BASMATI RICE |
| 2 | KAFFIR LIME LEAVES |
| 1 | TABLESPOON UNSALTED BUTTER |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON KOSHER SALT |
| 1 3/4 | CUPS WATER |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED DRIED PINEAPPLE |
| 1/4 | CUP DICED DRIED PEAR |
| 1/2 | CUP PLUM WINE |
| 1/2 | RED BELL PEPPER, FINELY DICED |
| 1/4 | CUP FINELY DICED MANGO |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SHELLED SOYBEANS (EDAMAME) |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS SLICED ALMONDS, TOASTED |
| 2 | TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO |
| 1/2 | CUP SESAME VINAIGRETTE (RECIPE FOLLOWS) |
COMBINE THE RICE, lime leaves, butter, salt, and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. When boiling, stir, cover, and reduce the heat to very low. Simmer until the rice is tender and all of the water is absorbed, 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
WHILE THE RICE is cooking, combine the dried pineapple, pear, and plum wine in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Immediately remove from the heat and allow the fruit to steep in the wine to reconstitute and soften. After 10 minutes, drain out any wine that has not been absorbed by the fruit.
REMOVE AND DISCARD the lime leaves from the cooled rice and fluff the grains with a fork. Fold in the wine-soaked fruit, bell pepper, mango, soybeans, almonds, and cilantro. Add the Sesame Vinaigrette and stir to combine. Cover to keep warm.
SAUTÉED SNOW PEAS
| 1 | TABLESPOON CANOLA OIL |
| 1/2 | POUND SNOW PEAS, STRINGS REMOVED |
| PINCH OF KOREAN RED PEPPER POWDER (KUCHO KARU), OR CAYENNE |
PLACE A LARGE skillet over medium heat and film with the oil. Add the snow peas and sauté until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle with the red pepper powder and remove from the heat. Cover to keep warm.
SESAME VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 1 2/3 CUPS
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED |
| 1 | RED JALAPEÑO, SEEDED AND MINCED |
| 1 | GREEN JALAPEÑO, SEEDED AND MINCED |
| JUICE OF 1 LIME | |
| 1 | CUP SESAME OIL |
| 1/2 | CUP RICE VINEGAR |
| 1/2 | CUP FISH SAUCE (NAM PLA), SUCH AS THREE CRABS BRAND |
COMBINE THE GARLIC, jalapeños, lime juice, oil, vinegar, and fish sauce in a small saucepan over low heat. Heat very slightly, until just warm and aromatic. Cover and keep warm.
TO ASSEMBLE AND serve: Mound about 1 cup of the Dried-Fruit Basmati on each of 4 plates, just off center. Lay some Sautéed Snow Peas next to the rice and place a piece of the Tapioca-Crusted Red Snapper across the top. Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of the warm Sesame Vinaigrette over the fish and around each plate, being sure to evenly distribute the garlic and chilies in each serving.
FORBIDDEN RICE
Forbidden rice grains look like black leather, though they’re actually the deepest blue imaginable. Legend has it that Chinese emperors were once the sole consumers of forbidden rice, hence its name. Its firm texture and earthy and vaguely smoky taste holds up well to assertive flavors. Lotus Foods is a leading importer.
MAKES 4 CUPS
| 1 1/2 | CUPS FORBIDDEN RICE |
| 1 1/2 | QUARTS WATER |
| 1 | TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT |
PLACE THE RICE in a colander under cold running water and rinse until the water runs clear. Drain well.
COMBINE THE RICE and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer for 40 minutes, uncovered, until the rice is tender but still firm, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, stir in the salt, and let stand for 5 minutes to allow the grains to absorb the salt.
PASS THE RICE through a fine-mesh strainer and rinse under hot water to remove any excess starch. Return the rice to the saucepan and cover to keep warm.
FRIED JAPANESE EGGPLANT
| JUICE OF 1 LIME | |
| 1/2 | CUP UNSWEETENED COCONUT MILK |
| 1/2 | CUP SWEET CHILE SAUCE, SUCH AS MAE PLOY |
| 1/2 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 2 | JAPANESE EGGPLANTS, TRIMMED, CUT LENGTHWISE IN 8 SLICES |
| KOSHER SALT |
LINE A PLATTER with paper towels and set aside.
COMBINE THE LIME juice, coconut milk, and chile sauce in a large sauté pan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Reduce heat to low.
POUR THE OIL into a separate sauté pan and place over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the eggplant until lightly browned, about 1 minute on each side. Transfer to the prepared platter.
LAY THE EGGPLANT in the coconut milk mixture and simmer until the eggplant is well coated in the sauce but not so overcooked that it’s falling apart, about 1 minute. Remove the eggplant from the sauce and cover to keep warm.
SPICY LYCHEE VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 2 CUPS
| 1/2 | CUP LYCHEE SYRUP |
| 6 | TABLESPOONS SUGAR |
| 2 | CUPS FRESH ORANGE JUICE, STRAINED (FROM ABOUT 8 ORANGES) |
| 1/2 | CUP FRESHLY SQUEEZED LIME JUICE, STRAINED (FROM ABOUT 4 LIMES) |
| 2 | CUPS LOBSTER STOCK (PAGE 223) |
| CANOLA OIL, FOR FRYING | |
| 2 | LARGE SHALLOTS, CUT CROSSWISE INTO VERY THIN SLICES AND SEPARATED INTO RINGS |
| WONDRA FLOUR, FOR DUSTING | |
| 1 1/2 | TABLESPOONS FISH SAUCE, SUCH AS THREE CRABS BRAND |
| 4 | LYCHEE NUTS, SLICED IN STRIPS |
| 2 | TANGERINES OR ORANGES, CUT INTO SEGMENTS (SEE SEGMENTING CITRUS, PAGE 225) |
| 1 | THAI BIRD CHILE OR JALAPEÑO, SLICED |
| 1/4 | CUP OPAL BASIL LEAVES OR ITALIAN BASIL |
| 1/4 | CUP THAI BASIL LEAVES |
COMBINE THE LYCHEE syrup and sugar in a 2-quart saucepan, stirring to combine. Place over medium heat and cook until the sugar melts into a light caramel, about 5 minutes. Add the orange and lime juices, followed by the Lobster Stock. Bring to a simmer and then lower the heat and cook at a bare simmer until reduced by half, about 40 minutes. It is very important to reduce the vinaigrette slowly, as the citrus juice has a tendency to become bitter when the acid is rapidly cooked down.
WHILE THE VINAIGRETTE is cooking, line a plate with paper towels and set aside. Heat 1 inch of oil in a wide pan to 300°F. Toss the shallot rings in the flour to lightly dust. Transfer the shallots to a mesh strainer and shake to remove any excess flour. Place the shallots in the hot oil and fry until light golden and crispy, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the fried shallots out of the oil and drain on the prepared plate. While still hot, season them lightly with salt.
STIR THE FISH sauce into the vinaigrette. Just before serving, add the fried shallots, lychees, chile, tangerine sections, and basil leaves.
TO ASSEMBLE AND SERVE: Lay 2 slices of Fried Eggplant in the center of each of 4 plates. Mound 1 cup of Forbidden Rice on top of the eggplant and place a piece of the Tapioca-Crusted Red Snapper across the top. Spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of the warm Lychee Vinaigrette over the fish and around each plate, being sure to evenly distribute the shallots, lychees, tangerine sections, chilies, and basil in each serving.
