It takes little more than butter to make a sauce. Add some aromatics, a little acid, and wham, a luxurious sauce. Beurre blanc is a French classic that has a multitude of applications and is not at all difficult to make. It has endless variations—your imagination is the only limit. The acid (the wine and vinegar) is what changes in the various versions of this recipe throughout the book. Use red wine and suddenly the sauce transforms to beurre rouge.
| 2 | SHALLOTS, SLICED |
| 3 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 2 | SPRIGS FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1/2 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1/2 | CUP WINE, SEE INDIVIDUAL RECIPES |
| 1/4 | CUP VINEGAR, SEE INDIVIDUAL RECIPES |
| 1/4 | CUP HEAVY CREAM |
| 3/4 | CUP (1 1/2 STICKS) COLD UNSALTED BUTTER, |
| CUT INTO CHUNKS | |
| KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER |
COMBINE THE SHALLOTS, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, peppercorns, wine, and vinegar in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid is reduced to a little more than 1 tablespoon, 5 to 8 minutes. (This is called au sec, the French phrase meaning to cook ingredients until dry.)
STIR IN THE cream and continue to simmer until reduced slightly, 1 minute.
REDUCE THE HEAT to low and slowly whisk in the butter, 1 or 2 chunks at a time. Continue whisking until all of the butter has been incorporated, producing a creamy emulsified sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
STRAIN THE SAUCE through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Cover and keep warm.
Heating butter above 160 degrees will cause it to break or separate into its different parts. A beurre monté is a way of keeping melted butter in an emulsified state between 160 and 190 degrees, which is perfect for poaching fish or vegetables.
TO MAKE BEURRE Monté: Bring 2 tablespoons of water to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Whisk chunks of cold butter into the water, 1 or 2 pieces at a time, until the mixture is emulsified and thick. You can add as much as a pound of butter to this little bit of water. Hold over gentle heat to maintain the temperature and do not allow the sauce to boil or it will break.
Butter is composed of butterfat, water, and milk solids. By clarifying the butter, you are able to separate the different components, evaporate the water, and strain out the milk solids that can burn easily. What is left is a clear, golden butterfat. While clarified butter has less flavor than whole butter, it does have a higher smoke point. This means you can pan-fry meats and fish at a higher temperature than you can with regular butter. One quarter of the original volume is lost during the clarifying process. Clarified butter will keep covered in the refrigerator for about 1 month. This recipe may be doubled or tripled.
MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
| 2 | CUPS (4 STICKS) UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO CHUNKS |
PLACE THE BUTTER in a heavy saucepan over low heat to slowly melt. Occasionally swirl the pan to ensure that the butter does not sizzle or brown. Cook, without stirring, until the milk solids have separated and sunk to the bottom of the pan, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for a minute. Skim the foam off the top with a spoon.
PASS THE CLARIFIED butter through a fine-mesh strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth into a clean container, leaving behind the browned milk solids. The clarified butter should be perfectly clear and golden yellow. Store, covered and refrigerated.
This robust wine sauce is a natural accompaniment to grilled steak as well as fish, such as meaty tuna.
MAKES 2 1/2 CUPS
| 1/4 | CUP CANOLA OIL |
| 1 | POUND CREMINI OR BUTTON MUSHROOMS, WIPED OF GRIT, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 6 | SHALLOTS, SLICED |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1/2 | BUNCH FRESH THYME |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1/2 | TABLESPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
| 1/4 | CUP SUGAR |
| 1/2 | CUP RED WINE VINEGAR |
| 1 | (750 ML) BOTTLE PINOT NOIR |
| 1 | QUART VEAL DEMI-GLACE (PAGE 222 OR STORE-BOUGHT) |
PLACE A LARGE saucepan over medium-high heat and coat with the oil. When hot, add the mushrooms, shallots, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, and coriander. Cook, stirring, until the natural moisture from the shallots and mushrooms is released and they begin to brown, about 10 to 15 minutes.
SPRINKLE IN THE sugar, stirring to dissolve. Add the vinegar to deglaze the pan, scraping up the bits in the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add the wine and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are deep purple and the wine is almost totally cooked out, about 40 minutes.
ADD THE VEAL Demi-Glace and continue to simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, about 30 to 40 minutes.
STRAIN THE SAUCE into a clean saucepan or container and discard the solids. Serve hot.
Chicken stock is an indispensable commodity in a restaurant kitchen. It is good to always have it on hand for use as a base for soups and sauces.
MAKES ABOUT 1 GALL ON
| 5 | POUNDS CHICKEN BACKS, NECKS, AND BONES |
| 2 | YELLOW ONIONS, UNPEELED AND HALVED |
| 2 | STALKS CELERY, HALVED |
| 2 | CARROTS, HALVED |
| 4 | SPRIGS FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 2 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
RINSE THE CHICKEN bones under cold running water to remove any blood, which would cloud the stock. Place the bones in a stockpot and add just enough cold water to cover by 2 inches, about 1 gallon.
PLACE THE POT over medium-low heat and slowly bring to a simmer, uncovered, skimming any foam and impurities that rise to the surface. Add the onions, celery, carrots, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and coriander. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 2 hours, skimming occasionally to keep the stock clear.
REMOVE FROM THE heat and pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a large container, discarding the solids.
IF NOT USING the stock immediately, place the container in a sink full of ice water and stir frequently to cool the stock. When cold, remove any fat that has solidified on the surface. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 1 month.
In this stock, the veal bones and vegetables are roasted to create a more pronounced flavor and deep color. The gelatin in the bones adds viscosity to the stock.
MAKES ABOUT 3 QUARTS
| 2 | TABLESPOONS CANOLA OIL |
| 5 | POUNDS VEAL BONES, PREFERABLY MEATY LEG BONES, CUT INTO 2-INCH CHUNKS |
| 3 | STALKS CELERY, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 2 | YELLOW ONIONS, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | CARROT, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | HEAD OF GARLIC, HALVED |
| 1/4 | CUP TOMATO PASTE |
| 2 | CUPS DRY RED WINE, SUCH AS MERLOT |
| 5 | SPRIGS FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY |
| 5 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 2 | BAY LEAVES, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TABLESPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 425°F. Place a large roasting pan in the oven to preheat. When hot, coat the pan with the oil and heat in the oven for 2 minutes.
REMOVE THE PAN from the oven and arrange the veal bones in a single layer. Return to the oven and roast for 1 hour, turning the bones once or twice, until they are evenly brown on all sides. Add the celery, onions, carrot, garlic, and tomato paste, stirring to mix well. Return to the oven and roast for an additional 15 minutes.
CAREFULLY REMOVE FROM the oven and pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, stirring with a wooden spoon to release any caramelized bits that have stuck to the bottom. Transfer everything to a large stockpot and fill with enough water to cover the ingredients by 1 inch (about 1 gallon).
PLACE THE STOCKPOT over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and gently simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes, diligently skimming any impurities that rise to the surface. Add the parsley, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, and coriander. Continue to simmer gently for 3 to 4 hours, skimming occasionally and adding water as needed to keep the bones and vegetables covered.
REMOVE FROM THE heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large container, discarding the solids. Place the saucepan in a sink full of ice water and stir to cool the stock down quickly or let it sit and slowly come to room temperature. Remove any fat that has solidified on the surface. When cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 1 month.
TO MAKE DEMI-GLACE:
PLACE 1 QUART of veal stock in a 2-quart saucepan over medium heat and gently simmer until the liquid is reduced by half (about 2 cups); this takes about 30 minutes. Demi-Glace should have deep brown color and be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. When it is cold, it looks like chocolate Jell-O.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
| 4 | LOBSTER BODIES |
| 4 | TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL |
| 1 | CUP BRANDY |
| 1 | YELLOW ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1/2 | BULB FENNEL, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 1 | CARROT, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 2 | STALKS CELERY, COARSELY CHOPPED |
| 2 | CLOVES GARLIC, SMASHED |
| 1/4 | CUP TOMATO PASTE |
| 1 | CUP DRY WHITE WINE, SUCH AS SAUVIGNON BLANC |
| 3 | SPRIGS FRESH THYME |
| 1 | BAY LEAF, PREFERABLY FRESH |
| 1 | TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPERCORNS |
| 1 | TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS |
WHEN CLEANING THE lobster bodies, it’s best to wear kitchen gloves to protect your hands. Firmly pull the bodies and shells apart. When all of the bodies have been separated, use a tablespoon to scrape off the feathery gills and clean out the roe and innards from the underside of the shell and discard. Coarsely chop the lobster shells and bodies.
HEAT A LARGE stockpot over medium-high heat and coat with 2 tablespoons of the oil. When the oil gets hazy, add the lobster shells and bodies. Stir often until the shells are well seared and bright red, 3 to 5 minutes. Shells equal flavor.
TO KEEP THE alcohol from flaming, remove the pot from the heat and add the brandy. Carefully return the pot to the stove and cook out the brandy until it is almost totally evaporated. Push the shells to the sides of the pot and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and the onion, fennel, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook and stir until the vegetables are tender and begin to caramelize, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until the color deepens, about 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and deglaze by scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking until all of the liquid is evaporated, about 1 minute.
POUR IN JUST enough cold water to cover by 2 inches, about 1 gallon. Slowly bring to a boil, uncovered, skimming any foam and impurities that rise to the surface. Add the thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and coriander. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for about 1 hour, skimming occasionally to keep the stock clear. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve into another pot or large container. Discard the solids.
USE THE STOCK immediately or if you plan on storing it, place the pot in a sink full of ice water and stir to cool it down rapidly. Once cold, remove any solidified fat from surface of the stock. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week or store in the freezer for 1 month.
This unassuming, almost clear liquid has a clean tomato flavor that often surprises people. Oddly enough, the color is closer to yellow than red. Because it is not heated, the resulting tomato water infuses very naturally with other flavors. Tomato water makes a great base for a consommé or jelly; we also frequently use it in the restaurant for vinaigrettes.
MAKES 3 1/2 CUPS
| 10 | RIPE ROMA OR HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, CORED AND HALVED |
| 1 | TABLESPOON KOSHER SALT |
JUICE THE TOMATOES in an electric juicer. If you do not have a juicer, process the tomatoes in a blender or food processor with 1/4 cup of water until the mixture is liquid.
LINE A FINE-MESH strainer with a tea towel or double layer of cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Pour the tomato juice (or liquid) into the sieve and sprinkle with the salt. Transfer to the refrigerator and allow the tomato water to slowly drip out. This will take a few hours or up to overnight. Tomato water can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
Simple syrup is nothing more than a mixture of sugar and water heated until it is clear. It is used in many recipes throughout the book or to sweeten mixed or iced drinks.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
| 1 | CUP SUGAR |
| 2 | CUPS WATER |
COMBINE THE SUGAR and water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and, swirling the pan over the heat, cook at a bare boil until the sugar is totally dissolved and the liquid becomes clear, about 2 minutes. Do not allow the syrup to boil or it will darken. Remove from the heat and cool completely before using. Simple Syrup can be stored indefinitely, covered and refrigerated.
This technique is utilized several times throughout the book. Follow this procedure for any type of citrus fruit, be it oranges, lemons, limes, tangerines, or grapefruit.
TO SEGMENT CITRUS, first trim off the top and bottom flat so the fruit stands steady on a work surface; cut deep enough so you see the meat of the fruit. Using a paring knife, cut off the skin and bitter white pith of the fruit, following the natural round shape and turning the citrus as you do so. Trim off any white pith that remains. Hold the fruit over a bowl to catch the juices. Carefully cut along the membrane, on both sides of each segment, to free the pulp. Let the segments drop into the bowl as you cut. Squeeze the remaining fruit into the bowl to extract any remaining juice.