The Vegetable Lexicon
Here, in alphabetical order, is just about everything you need to know about the most common vegetables. Each entry includes basic information, the ideal cooking method, and, in most cases, featured recipes. This section will expand your repertoire of vegetable dishes and help you to develop your own variations and accompaniments. It’s designed to foster flexibility, with a line in each recipe and vegetable entry suggesting possible substitutions. If you think of this section as a mini-dictionary, the world of vegetables will become a lot more accessible than you might expect.
Artichokes
Artichokes are the flower buds of a thistle plant. The petals (we call them “leaves”) are green, tough, and spiked, and surround a choke of fine, hairlike fibers. The heart is at the base of the bud and is attached to the thick, edible stem, which is best if peeled before cooking.
Round, bulbous globe artichokes are the most common. So-called baby artichokes have more tender leaves and no chokes and can be eaten whole. But know: Not all small artichokes are baby artichokes. The best baby artichokes are fully mature artichokes that grow at the base of the plant; what you see most often are small artichokes that grow on side branches and are simply labeled “baby.” These are not as tender and have a semideveloped choke that must still be removed. They’re good; but they’re not the same thing.
Whole artichokes can be boiled, but I prefer steaming because they don’t become waterlogged. You can also parcook them by boiling or steaming, then grill over direct heat.
Eating the leaves is fun: scrape off the flavorful “meat” using your front teeth. The closer you get to the center, the more tender the leaves, which can be eaten in bunches, but avoid the furry choke (it got its name for a reason!). Or trim away the leaves and scrape away the choke with a spoon to get to the delicious heart. Hearts and baby artichokes can be sautéed, braised, fried, roasted, or grilled whole, halved, or sliced.
Buying and storing Artichokes are usually available throughout the year but are best in spring and fall. Look for those that are heavy for their size; they should make a squeaking sound when you squeeze them. Store wrapped loosely in plastic in the refrigerator.
Preparing Raw artichokes discolor quickly when cut and darken when cooked; rub with half a lemon or drop in a bowl of water with a couple of tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar immediately after cutting to preserve color.
For whole artichokes: Cut off the pointed tips of the leaves with scissors or cut off the whole top third (a large serrated knife will help you get through the tough leaves, but any heavy knife will do the job). Use a paring knife to cut ¼ inch off the bottom of the stem, then peel the remaining stem up to the base of the artichoke. Pull off the toughest exterior leaves. To remove the choke, halve or quarter the artichoke and scrape it out with a spoon, or cut off the tops of the leaves, pry open the central leaves, and pull and scrape out the choke.
For artichoke hearts, cut off as much of the tops of the leaves as possible or halve the artichoke lengthwise. Use a paring knife to cut ¼ inch off the bottom of the stem, then peel the remaining stem up to the base of the artichoke; scrape out the choke with a spoon.
Small or baby artichokes, if tender enough, can be eaten whole, but sometimes they benefit from having the tops of the leaves and the exterior leaves trimmed. Otherwise, halve, quarter, or slice lengthwise. Remove the choke if necessary.
Most canned and jarred artichokes are already cooked and can be added whole, chopped, or sliced in the last few minutes of cooking. Rinse heavily marinated or brined ones to wash away some of the liquid’s flavor. Thaw frozen artichokes and use as you would fresh, but cut the cooking time roughly in half since they are already partially cooked.
Best cooking methods Steaming (whole or hearts), sautéing (only for baby artichokes and hearts), braising (only for baby artichokes and hearts)
When are they done? Whole artichokes are ready when the outer leaves pull off easily. Taste one: If the meat comes off easily and is tender, it’s done. Artichoke hearts are done when very tender; pierce with a skewer or thin-bladed knife to check, then taste to be sure.
