Risotto with Dried and Fresh Mushrooms

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: 45 minutes

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According to the canon, you must use Arborio or one of its relatives to make “real” risotto, but I’ve long had success with other short-grain rices, and the common varieties cost about a fifth of the usually overpriced Arborio. You can even make it with short-grain brown rice (see “The Easy Way to Substitute Brown Rice for White,” page 368). You will lose some creaminess but it’s made up for in deep, nutty flavor.

Many people are scared off making risotto, thinking it must be stirred constantly. Yes, the liquid must be added a bit at a time, and yes, the heat must be kept fairly high, and yes, there’s a lot of stirring. But that doesn’t mean constant stirring. That said, once you start the process, you shouldn’t leave the stove for more than a minute or so at a time. Remove the rice from the heat when there is still a tiny bit of crunch in the center of the rice kernels and the mixture is moist and creamy.

I always have dried mushrooms on hand; the addition of fresh mushrooms is a bonus. Any vegetable — artichoke hearts, green beans, snow peas, and so on (see the list, page 379) — can be cooked on the side and stirred into the risotto at the last minute, as the shiitakes are here.

• ½ cup dried porcini mushrooms
• 5 cups vegetable stock (pages 97–100)
• Large pinch saffron threads (optional)
• 4–6 tablespoons butter or olive oil
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1½ cups Arborio or other short- or medium-grain rice
• Salt and pepper
• ½ cup dry white wine or water
• 1 cup slivered shiitake or portobello mushroom caps
• Grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. Rinse the dried mushrooms once or twice, then soak them in a bowl with hot water to cover. Put the stock in a saucepan over low heat; add the saffron if you’re using it. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil in a large, deep nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with fat, 2 to 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper, then the white wine. Stir and let the liquid bubble away. Lift the mushrooms out of the soaking liquid with your hands or a slotted spoon, reserving the liquid. Chop them, then stir them into the rice. Carefully pour in about half of the soaking liquid, leaving any grit in the bottom of the bowl.
3. Use a ladle to begin to add the stock, ½ cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so. When the stock is just about absorbed, add more. The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry. Keep the heat medium to medium-high and stir frequently. Meanwhile, put the remaining butter or oil (more will make a creamier risotto) in a small skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and almost crisp, about 10 minutes.
4. Begin tasting the rice 20 minutes after you add it; you want it to be tender but with a tiny bit of crunch. It could take as long as 30 minutes to reach this stage. When it does, stir in the cooked mushrooms with their butter or oil, and at least ½ cup Parmesan if you’re using it. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve, passing additional Parmesan at the table if you like.

Risotto with Other Grains You can use the same technique (including a very similar cooking time) with other grains: Replace the rice with an equal amount of farro, oat groats, einkorn, or pearled barley. Proceed with the recipe, adding the stock ¼ cup at a time.