The Herb Lexicon

HERB	DESCRIPTION	USES
Basil	The most familiar varieties, like Genovese, have flavors of licorice and cloves; Thai and holy basil are peppery and more minty.	Best raw or cooked only briefly. Use the leaves whole or tear them; chop if you don’t mind the leaves turning black. The flowers are edible and great thrown into salads.
Bay leaves Sweet bay Sweet laurel Bay laurel	Glossy, green, and leathery when fresh; grayed and brittle when dried. Fresh are much stronger than dried; whole dried leaves are far better than ground. Turkish are superior to Californian.	In stocks, soups, sauces, poaching liquids, to flavor vinegars. Throw a few leaves in the next time you’re roasting vegetables. Remove them from the dish before serving.
Chervil	Looks like parsley, with lacy leaves and an anise flavor. Fresh only; dried is useless.	Best used raw or tossed in at the end of cooking. Delicious in omelets, sauces, salads, and with vegetables.
Chives	Bright green, hollow, and grass-like, with a mild onion flavor. Garlic chives have a more garlicky taste, but aren’t as common.	Best raw or cooked only briefly. An assertive addition to soft cheese spreads and compound butter.
Cilantro Fresh coriander Chinese parsley Mexican parsley	Tender and parsley-like in appearance, but distinctive (some say soapy) in aroma and flavor. Only fresh is desirable; dried is useless. (The seeds are considered a spice; see “Coriander,” page 643.)	Best added at the last minute. Associated with the flavors of Mexican, Thai, and Indian cooking. Use the roots in stews or other long-cooked dishes.
Dill Dill weed	Stalks with blue-green, feathery, tender leaves. Fresh is superior to dried, which has less flavor but at least retains the character of the fresh leaves. Dill seeds are often included in pickling spice mixes.	Use at the end of cooking, as its flavor is diminished by hot temperatures (though tying stems in a bundle and cooking with stews gives a nice flavor). Tasty in dishes made with sour cream, yogurt, or mustard, or tossed into a green salad.
Epazote	Bright green, jagged, and pointed leaves, usually sold in bunches when fresh. Its aroma is unusual, its taste powerful, so use it carefully. Fresh is better, but dried is more common in this country. Sold in Mexican and Latin American markets.	Use chopped or whole fresh or dried leaves in small quantities; 1 tablespoon fresh or 1 teaspoon dried is sufficient for most recipes serving 4 to 6 people. Traditionally used with beans, and some moles; also good with corn and other summer vegetables, in quesadillas, and in scrambled eggs.
Lavender	Narrow gray-green leaves with long purple or pink flower spikes; only the flower buds are commonly available dried. The scent and flavor are minty and floral.	Use sparingly; it’s strong and can be bitter. Mince fresh leaves and flowers and toss into salads and fruit dishes or add to sauces, candies, and pastries.
Lemongrass Citronella root Sereh	A stiff, narrow stalk with a strong citrus flavor and aroma — think citronella candles. Best fresh; dried is acceptable. The powdered form, called sereh, is not as good. Sold in supermarkets and Asian markets.	Cut off woody tops and peel away tough outer layers; mince or pound the tender inner pieces to release their flavor and aroma. Soak dried lemongrass in hot water for at least 30 minutes before using.
Lime leaves Makrut lime leaves	Tough, shiny green leaves that often look like two conjoined leaves. Very aromatic, with unusually floral and limey flavor. Fresh is best, but dried is good. Sold in most Asian markets.	Used in Southeast Asian dishes of all types. Mince or toss in whole leaves during cooking; use double the amount of dried leaves for fresh. Or use 1 teaspoon grated lime zest for each leaf called for.
Marjoram	Light green, fuzzy, oval leaves. Often confused and interchangeable with oregano, but superior. Dried isn’t too bad, though it’s far more pungent than fresh.	Add fresh toward the end of cooking; crumble dried leaves. Wonderful with green salads, vinaigrettes, eggs, beans, all sorts of vegetables, and tomato sauces.
Mint	Bright green, wrinkled leaves (spearmint), or smooth ones (peppermint and other varieties). Best fresh; dried is decent, at least in savory dishes.	Fresh leaves should be chopped or crushed to release their flavor. Traditional with peas or potatoes, goes well with many vegetables and fruits; perfect in yogurt-based sauces, as well as in chutneys and many Southeast Asian dishes. Ideal for herbal teas and cocktails.
Oregano Greek oregano Wild marjoram	Dark green, fuzzy, spade-shaped leaves. Stronger and spicier than marjoram, especially Mexican oregano. Dried is especially pungent. Fresh is infinitely better, but dried is acceptable.	Fresh and dried can be cooked or used as a garnish in small amounts. Good with tomatoes, cheeses, pizza, vegetables, beans, and vinaigrettes.
Parsley	Dark leaves with fresh flavor. Dried is not worth buying. There are two varieties: curly and flat-leaf (Italian) parsley; the latter is somewhat better, but it’s not worth making a big deal about.	Inexpensive and versatile, used in just about everything: soups, salads, vinaigrettes, sauces, vegetables, eggs, pasta, and as a garnish. Especially valuable in winter for its freshness.
Rosemary	Grayish-green needles on woody branches, with crisp, piney aroma and flavor. Dried leaves are also flavorful.	Wonderful with beans, most vegetables, egg dishes, pasta, and breads. The woody branches make perfect skewers for broiling or grilling.
Sage	Soft, woolly, oval-shaped grayish-green or multicolored leaves. Sharply flavored, slightly bitter, and very aromatic. Fresh leaves are best; dried are stronger and somewhat mustier, but not bad.	Use fresh leaves whole or chopped. Crumble dried leaves. Wonderful with beans, stuffings, breads, biscuits, and pasta.
Shiso Perilla Japanese basil or mint Beefsteak plant	Flat, bright green or reddish purple leaves with a jagged edge. Combination of basil, mint, and cinnamon flavors. Dried is less flavorful but somewhat useful. Sold in many Asian (especially Japanese) and some Mexican markets.	Use as you would use basil or mint. Traditionally served with sashimi and sushi, as well as with cucumbers, pickles, tempura; in salads, soups; when dried, sprinkled over rice.
Tarragon	Narrow, lance-shaped, bright to dark green leaves, with strong, complex flavor and aroma, faintly licoricelike. Fresh is always best; dried is less flavorful but usable.	Whole or minced fresh leaves can be cooked; flavor is not at all tamed by heat, so use it sparingly. Crumble dried tarragon to release essential oils.
Thyme	Tiny green or gray-green leaves that can be minty, lemony, or earthy, depending on the variety. Fresh is more pungent and aromatic than dried, though dried thyme is useful.	The classic French cooking herb, often used in long-simmering or braising recipes. Use fresh leaves and tips as a garnish, but very sparingly — thyme’s strong flavor easily overwhelms everything else. Perfect teamed with olive oil and garlic at the beginning of many sautés.