The Spice Lexicon

SPICE	DESCRIPTION	USES
Allspice Pimento	Berries that come from the aromatic evergreen pimento tree. They look like large reddish brown peppercorns, smell a bit like a combination of cloves and nutmeg, and taste slightly peppery. Jamaican allspice is the best. Available as whole berries and ground.	By the pinch; a little goes a long way. Delicious with grains like bulgur, couscous, rice, and with polenta and vegetables like beets, carrots, parsnips, winter squash, and sweet potatoes. Good in mulled wines or sprinkled into tomato or cranberry juice.
Anise seeds Aniseed	Tiny, crescent-shaped, greenish-brown seeds from the anise plant, with a sweet licorice flavor. Star anise or fennel can usually fill in for these and vice versa. Available whole or ground.	Common in desserts, anise also works well in savory dishes that include apples, cucumbers, carrots, turnips, or cabbage, and in fruit salads, pickles, stuffings, and sauerkraut.
Annatto Achiote	The triangular, brick-colored seeds of the annatto tree smell earthy or musky and taste slightly peppery, but their flavor is subtle. Traditionally used in Latin American dishes. Available whole, ground, or, less frequently, as a prepared paste.	The seeds are too hard to crush easily and must be soaked for 10 minutes in boiling water first. Once cool and drained, grind them with a mortar and pestle or in a spice mill. Whole seeds are used to color and flavor oil as a first step in cooking dishes; be sure to fish them out before adding the other ingredients.
Asafetida Hing	Made from the dried sap exuded from the stem of giant fennel. The lumps are a waxy brownish black, and the powder is a beige color. Its high-sulfur odor is transformed into a haunting aroma and flavor a bit like onion. Available in lumps or ground. The powder is easier to use, but it’s generally less pure, so go for the lump form if possible. Asafetida doesn’t have its characteristic odor until it is ground.	Indian cuisine primarily, especially vegetables, beans, potatoes, and in chutney, pickles, and sauces, usually in spice mixtures. Very potent, so use only by the pinch. Try adding a tiny amount to plain boiled rice. To minimize the smell, double-pack powdered asafetida in a jar inside another jar, or it will stink up your pantry. A lump will keep indefinitely and should be pulverized just before use.
Caraway	Slender, ridged, whole brown seeds from a parsley-related plant; its flavor is reminiscent of both anise and cumin.	Traditionally used in rye bread, caraway is delicious in cabbage and potato dishes and hearty soups and stews.
Cardamom	Whole pods may be green, brown-black, or whitish. Each contains about 10 brown-black seeds, which are slightly sticky. Cardamom has a rich spicy scent, a bit like ginger mixed with pine and lemon. You may find whole pods, or “hulled,” meaning the seeds. Ground cardamom is the most commonly sold form, but also the least potent. I buy whole pods (mostly white).	A staple in Indian and some Middle Eastern cooking. Sometimes pods are cooked whole, especially in braised dishes. Otherwise, crush the pods with the flat side of a knife, remove the seeds, and grind or crush as required. Often combined with other spices, as in curry powder and garam masala. Also used (especially in Scandinavia) in cakes, pastries, and sweets.
Celery seeds	Tiny tan-colored seeds, usually from lovage, a relative of celery that has an intense celery flavor.	A little goes a long way. Use in pickling brines, cheese spreads, and salad dressings, or baked into breads and biscuits.
Cinnamon Canela, Ceylon or Sri Lanka cinnamon	The aromatic bark of a tropical laurel tree. Cassia—cinnamon’s less expensive cousin—is often sold as cinnamon; it’s the bark from a laurel tree native to China. The bark dries into long, slender, curled sticks that are a reddish–light brown color. Ground cinnamon is useful, though it’s easy enough to grind sticks. Cassia is redder; its flavor is more biting and bitter, making it better suited to savory dishes than sweet ones.	Use whole cinnamon sticks or pieces of cassia in soups, stews, chilis, and curries or add to rice or other grains. True cinnamon is excellent in pastries, as well as in rice pudding and French toast. Delicious paired with apples, and in mulled cider and cold fruit soups.
Cloves	The unripe flower buds of a tree native to the islands of Southeast Asia. Pink when picked, they are dried to a reddish brown color, separated from their husks, and dried again. Whole cloves should be dark brown, oily, and fat, not shriveled. They have a sweet, warm aroma and a piercing flavor. Both whole and ground forms are common, and both are useful.	Use cloves sparingly—the flavor can be overwhelming—and try to remove whole cloves before serving. To make this easier, you can stud an onion with cloves and then remove the onion; or wrap them in cheesecloth. Ground cloves—just a pinch, usually—are good in spice blends, batters and doughs, fruit pie fillings, and stewed fruit.
Coriander	Seeds of the cilantro plant, they are small, round, and vary in color from pale green when fresh to light or dark brown when dried. The lemony flavor is somewhat like cilantro leaves, but the overall taste is much more complex, with hints of cumin, fennel, and even cloves. Both whole seeds and ground are common.	Coriander seeds can be cooked whole into dishes (and are quite pleasant to eat) or ground first; if you’re grinding, consider toasting first for a bit more flavor. Often used in conjunction with other spices, especially cumin and cardamom. Used in Asian- and Latin American–style stews, soups, and some breads and pastries.
Cumin	The highly aromatic seeds of the cumin plant, a relative of parsley. Because they look similar, brown cumin and caraway are often confused, though they taste nothing alike. If you find cumin bitter, seek out the black seeds, which are more peppery and sweet. Whole seeds and ground are available in brown (the most common), black, and white varieties. Black and white cumin can usually be found in Indian markets.	Lightly toasting the seeds before use enhances their flavor. Like coriander, frequently included in spice mixtures like garam masala and chili powder. Also used solo a great deal in Latin American and Middle Eastern cooking.
Dill	Seeds are light brown, oval, and flat. They have a stronger taste than the fresh or dried herb. Seeds and leaves are both common, though the leaves are considered an herb (see page 635).	Often used whole, though occasionally ground. Excellent with cucumbers, radishes, potatoes, and sauces made with sour cream, yogurt, or mustard. Also featured in pickling spice.
Fennel seeds	From bulbless fennel, these seeds are small, pale greenish-brown ovals with tiny ridges and an aromatic, warm, sweet taste reminiscent of licorice. Not as strong as anise. Whole seeds are most common but also available ground.	Delicious in salad dressings, yogurt sauces; used in Indian dishes, as well as many pilafs; one of the five ingredients in five-spice powder and some curry powders. A popular flavor in Italy and southern France. When ground, fennel seeds make an interesting addition to spice cookies, shortbread, and quick breads.
Fenugreek seeds Methi	The distinctive rectangular seeds are small, brownish yellow, and very hard. They have a pungent, almost acrid aroma and an earthy, somewhat bitter taste that is found in many Indian dishes. Available whole and ground.	Fenugreek is used mainly in the cuisines of India and northern Africa, in chutneys, dals (lentils), and curries. Goes especially well with eggplant and potatoes. An essential ingredient in many curry powders, giving them their distinctive aroma.
Ginger	Ground dried ginger (see page 206 for more on fresh ginger) is yellowish tan and has the distinctive aroma of ginger. Crystallized (candied) ginger is delicious out of hand and can also be used in cooking.	Ground ginger is often used in sweets like cakes, cookies, quick breads.
Juniper berries	The berry-like seed cones from the evergreen juniper tree; the size of dried peas, blue-black in color. They taste like a mix of pine, fruit, and lemon peel; the dominant flavor in gin.	Juniper berries are very pungent, so use in moderation. Toasting them briefly in a dry skillet will bring out their aroma, and crushing releases their flavor. Can also use them whole, in a cheesecloth bag or tea ball, removing them before serving. A classic flavoring for stuffings, sauerkraut, sauces, and pickling.
Mace	Mace is the hard, lacy coating—or aril—that covers the nutmeg kernel. When the fruit first opens, mace is bright red. After drying and pressing, it becomes yellow-brown. Its flavor is very similar to that of nutmeg, though more bitter. Usually available ground; called “blades” when whole.	Add ground mace to savory dishes toward the end of cooking for best flavor. Whole blades can be used as is in soups or stews, then removed before eating. Commonly used ground in cakes and other sweets, traditional in doughnuts and pumpkin pie. Nutmeg is almost always an acceptable substitute.
Nutmeg	Nutmeg is the kernel inside the seed of the fruit of a tropical evergreen tree; it’s dark brown and about 1 inch long. It is sometimes a whitish color, the result of being dusted with lime to discourage insects; wash this off before grating or grinding. Available whole or ground; since the whole nutmeg keeps nearly forever and is easily grated, there’s no reason to buy ground.	Nutmeg is very strong, so use sparingly, by grating it; put the unused portion back in the jar or bag. Lovely with fruit dishes, custards, cakes and other sweets, as well as vegetables, especially spinach. Also works well with cream and cheese sauces for pasta. Used in many spice mixtures, including jerk seasoning and some curry powders.
Paprika Pimentón	Light red-orange powder with a spicy-sweet aroma; if it’s brown, it’s too old. Varies in heat from mild (sweet) to hot. The best paprika comes from Spain (pimentón is smoked paprika, and really good) or Hungary (Szegedi is a good word to look for). California paprika is usually quite mild and not as good.	Use as you would any ground dried chile (that’s what it is). Delicious with grains, eggs, cheese, and many vegetables and in soups, stews, sauces, rice, and potato dishes. You can substitute a ground mild chile like ancho for paprika with no problem.
Pepper	Peppercorns are the fruit of a vine native to India but now also grown in Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and elsewhere. They are harvested ripe as they begin to mature from green to red or yellow-green fruit. After curing in the sun, they shrivel and turn black. Black pepper has a range of flavors from citrusy to woodsy to piney, depending on where it is grown, along with pungent heat. For white peppercorns, the fruit are skinned before drying, while the just-ripe green peppercorns are freeze-dried or preserved in brine. True red, fully mature peppercorns are not widely available. Available whole, cracked, and ground.	White pepper is milder than black and perfect for everything from cream sauces to fruit desserts, anytime you’re looking for pepper flavor with a little less punch or want to avoid dark specks. I prefer green peppercorns packed in brine. Refrigerate brined green peppercorns after opening. Don’t bother with freeze-dried unless they are very high quality and you plan on reconstituting them in hot water like dried mushrooms. Ground, I don’t think you’ll notice much difference from black pepper.
Poppy seeds	Poppy seeds come from the same plant as opium but contain no traces of the drug. The teeny seeds, the size of a pinhead, come from inside the flower’s pods. Poppy seeds add a nutty flavor and subtle crunch to foods. Available whole or crushed into a paste; black is the most common variety, though there are also white poppy seeds.	More like a seasoning than a nut or seed. For a nuttier flavor, lightly toast them, carefully so they don’t burn. Used in Europe and the Middle East in sweets and baked goods. Good in salad dressings, fruit salads, and with Eastern European–style noodle dishes. In India, poppy seeds are toasted, ground, and used to flavor and thicken curries. The paste is used as a filling for strudel-type pastries and in other baked goods.
Saffron	Very expensive but worth having around. Really. Threads should be strong, long, and a brilliant orange-red color. Highly aromatic, warm, and spicy, with a slightly bitter taste; gives food a distinctive yellow color and exotic, wonderful flavor. To approximate its color use annatto or turmeric, but nothing tastes like saffron or has the same glow. Buy only threads; ground is useless.	Use sparingly—a good pinch is about right; too much can give food a medicinal taste. Add threads directly to the dish or steep in some of the cooking liquid or oil or a bit of boiling water for a few minutes first. Used in many traditional breads and cakes, as well as in rice, pasta, and cheese dishes.
Sichuan peppercorns Chinese peppercorns, Sansho	The seed pod of a small tree native to China. Flavor is unique, and essential to Sichuan cooking: a flowery, slightly smoky aroma combined with a somewhat lemony medicinal flavor and a tongue-numbing, unhot “spiciness” that feels almost like local anesthesia. (This is how Sichuan food can contain so many chiles without being overwhelmingly hot.) Available whole or infused in oil.	One of the spices in five-spice powder. When used alone, generally added at the end of cooking. Used in Chinese, Indonesia, Tibetan, and Korean cooking.
Star anise	The fruit of an evergreen tree native to China; the pod is a dark brown, eight-pointed star, about 1 inch in diameter, with seeds in each point—perhaps the strangest-looking spice you’ll ever buy, and quite lovely. Although it has a licorice-like flavor, it is botanically unrelated to anise. Available whole.	Both pod and seeds are used. Whole pods make an attractive garnish. If less than a whole star is required, break the pod into individual points. Wrap the points in cheesecloth and remove before serving. Use in soups, marinades, and spice mixtures; part of five-spice powder.
Sumac	The dried fruit of a type of sumac; used as a souring agent, much like lemon, in Middle Eastern cooking. The brick-red (though sometimes deep purple) berries also lend a bit of color. Available as dried whole berries or ground, which is more common.	To use whole, crack them and soak in water for 15 to 20 minutes, then wrap in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice, which can be used much like lemon juice. Powder is usually added during the last few minutes of cooking for the best flavor or as a last-minute sprinkle. Used with grilled items, on salads, or in dips like hummus or baba ghanoush. Mixed with thyme and toasted sesame seeds in the spice mix za’atar.
Turmeric Indian saffron	A rhizome like ginger, but darker skinned, with thin fingers; flesh is bright orange-red and difficult to grind. Available ground (most common), in dried pieces, or occasionally fresh.	Turmeric is most frequently used ground dried in spice blends, but if you see some fresh, try mincing it into pickles. Typical in Indian vegetarian cooking, where its deep flavor is welcome in dal and curries; also good with rice and other grain dishes like couscous. It has gained great popularity over the past five years largely for its touted health benefits and can be added to juice drinks and smoothies.
Vanilla bean	The dried seed pod of an orchid native to the tropical forests of Central and South America, vanilla is also grown in Madagascar and Tahiti. Pods are 4 to 5 inches long, dark chocolate brown, tough but pliant, and sometimes covered with white crystals, called givre (“frost”) in French. They contain hundreds of tiny black seeds (seen in top-quality vanilla ice cream). Good vanilla is expensive, so be suspicious of cheap beans. Wrap tightly in foil or seal in a glass jar and store in a cool place or the refrigerator. Available in whole pods (superior) and extract (convenient).	Steep pods whole in sauces or syrups, but usually best to split the pod lengthwise, scrape the seeds into the liquid, and add the pod as well. Make vanilla sugar by burying a couple of whole beans in a jar of sugar, which will absorb their aroma after a few days. Replenish the sugar in the jar as you use it. Exceptional with chocolate and coffee; used to flavor all kinds of desserts. Good with fruits: try poaching pears, apples, figs, or pineapple in a syrup flavored with vanilla.
Wasabi powder	Wasabi, also known as Japanese horseradish, belongs to the same family as horseradish (Brassica) but is an entirely different genus. In this country, it is usually only to be found in jars, the rhizomes dried and reduced to a dark green powder. Most wasabi powder found on supermarket or even specialty food shelves is actually ground horseradish mixed with mustard and green food coloring. For the real deal, 100% ground wasabi, it should be labeled “pure namida”; your best bet for finding it is online. Wasabi packs tremendous punch—heat that will clear your sinuses and make your eyes water. Store it in the refrigerator or freezer.	Heat destroys the flavor compounds in wasabi, so it is best used in cold or room temperature preparations. To keep it from clumping, mix it with just a little bit of water to make a paste, then stir that into whatever you are adding it to.