If I were to look back over all the menus covering two decades at The Square, there is probably only one common thread running through them all: pasta. Making fresh pasta is something I enjoy every bit as much now as the day I first experienced it at Harvey’s. More importantly, it is just so delicious. It is hard to imagine something more pleasing to eat than a swirl of hand-rolled linguine coated in a lubricating sauce and seasoned with grated Parmesan. It is the texture of well-made pasta that is so special, and its ability to act as a vehicle for flavour is what makes it so delicious.
The term ‘mouth feel’ comes into play with pasta because it communicates something important about its ability to give so much pleasure. The texture of food and how it feels in the mouth is a significant part of its success. Pasta scores big marks here, but of course, as with everything, it is completely reliant on the quality of the underlying cooking. With pasta work, it has to be said that practice makes perfect, and a big part of this is the art of making the dough. Too dry and you will tear your hair out trying to do anything with it; too wet and it will simply stick to everything. A well-made stiff dough will yield pasta with a firm bite and wonderful, slippery mouth feel, whereas a soft dough will lack any character and be eggy and spongy.
One of the most successful uses of fresh pasta at The Square is for ravioli and the many variations thereof. Here it is the use of an Italian medium to contain a French filling, a protein-based mousse, that works so surprisingly well. There is an undeniable truth about the deliciousness of crab meat bound with scallop mousse and wrapped in a lobster coral pasta. The key difference of a mousse-based filling here is that when the pasta is blanched, the mousse cooks, and the protein/cream mix gently sets to create a bite-sized unit with integrity and structure. This serves us well in the restaurant, not only because there is no residual moisture inside the ravioli to soften the pasta over time but also because it creates a texture and mouth-feel unlike anything achievable in classic Italian cookery. I am not suggesting that this international partnership has revealed any flaws in the Italian repertoire – far from it. But it is different and, in my opinion, provides a very successful technique, which has yielded great and varied results over many, many years.
The preamble on Pasta dough is well worth a read – it could prevent a complete culinary sense-of-humour failure!
The fact is, some flavour combinations work better than others. While most pairings will pass if cooked with a deft touch, there are many that combine with truly outstanding results. Such results demonstrate harmony of flavour. Once flavour has enveloped the taste buds on the tongue, quite possibly having been released through chewing, these flavours mix, and although some may be mellow and subtle they will sing and dance in complete harmony. These are happy mixes, they dovetail perfectly, and if there are more than two they meld in a constantly changing spectrum of flavour as you chew, savour and swallow. What goes on in the mouth is crucial, as it forms the basis of such an important part of cooking and eating. It just cannot be ignored. In professional kitchens, the current trend with regard to flavour is to innovate, challenge and seek the new. Yet in all honesty, I have yet to taste any such combination that pleases my palate as much as classical pairings. The cynics would suggest I just have an ‘old school’ palate. I am all for innovation and stimulation, but I would prefer to see this kept to cooking methods rather than flavour combinations. I’d rather crab with basil than crab with eucalyptus; chocolate with orange than chocolate with pine; or ceps with thyme and garlic than ceps with cardamom.
Harmony of flavour is not easy to teach, and a lengthy list of magical pairings would appear random and unhelpful. There is, however, one powerful guideline to adhere to and that is to cook seasonally. In any given season, nature provides us with a repertoire of fresh, immaculate ingredients that miraculously have a strong affinity with each other, and if you stick firmly to this principle it will stand you in very good stead. Nature yields salmon and watercress, mallard and pumpkin, venison and chestnuts, tomato and basil, peas and morels, ceps and garlic. These pairings result in combinations of flavours where the whole is so much more than the sum of its parts. Conversely, venison and basil, mallard and tomato, peas and chestnuts, salmon and ceps are combinations that do not have any logical, appropriate or natural affinity and, whilst they might not actively jar, they are certainly uncomfortable coalitions.
Learning to cook freely, without recipes and guidelines, is surely the goal for everyone. Yet one thing more than anything else will lead to catastrophe and that is playing with wildly adventurous flavour combinations.
LASAGNE OF CRAB WITH A CAPPUCCINO OF SHELLFISH AND A CHAMPAGNE FOAM
SERVES 8
In the 20 or so years that The Square has been trading, perhaps three dishes have been deemed signature dishes. In general, given that I use classical combinations of flavours and mostly traditional cooking techniques, it has all been done somewhere before. However, I do claim this one. This is comfort food refined to its most indulgent and very best.
OVERVIEW
The lasagne itself is reliant on two key ingredients: hand-dived scallops and prime claw meat from large cock crabs. The scallops are transformed into a delicate mousse, which is used to bind the crab meat. This mix is then interleaved with discs of hand-made parsley pasta. The lasagne is steamed, then sauced with a frothy bisque-style cappuccino and a champagne foam based on the scallop trim.
FOCUS ON
Obtaining the freshest and best shellfish. If live crabs are not available, then buy just the white meat from large cock crabs.
The scallop mousse must be delicate. Read the notes on making Mousses.
The sauces are key. While they must have flavour, it is important not to overpower a delicacy such as crab with sauces that are too strong.
KEY COMPONENTS
Parsley pasta dough
Crab
Shellfish bisque
Scallop mousse
Champagne foam
TIMING
The pasta dough must be made the day before. Everything else can be done the day before too, leaving the dish to be briefly cooked and assembled at the last minute.
500g curly parsley leaves
650g ‘00’ pasta flour
30g salt
140g whole eggs
85g egg yolks
25ml olive oil
CRAB
1 large live cock crab, about 1.5kg
1 quantity of Scallop Mousse (see Scallop Mousse – reserve the scallop ‘skirts’ for the champagne foam, below)
10 basil leaves, finely sliced
SHELLFISH CAPPUCCINO
50ml grapeseed oil
the shell from the crab, above
100g unsalted butter
2 shallots, sliced
½ carrot, sliced
½ celery stick, sliced
½ leek, sliced
1 teaspoon each coriander seeds, fennel seeds and star anise
½ head of garlic
1 tablespoon tomato purée
100ml Madeira
2 slices of lemon
½ bunch of basil
500ml semi-skimmed milk
CHAMPAGNE FOAM
the ‘skirts’ from the scallops for the mousse, above
200ml white wine
200ml champagne
3 shallots, finely sliced
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 star anise
1 teaspoon white peppercorns
zest and juice of 1 lemon
500ml double cream
a pinch of cayenne pepper
METHOD
PARSLEY PASTA DOUGH
In a liquidiser, thoroughly blend the parsley leaves with 2 litres of water, in batches, then pass through a coarse sieve to give a ‘green water’. Pour this into a large saucepan and place on a medium heat. Bring slowly towards simmering point. As it approaches simmering point, the green component (chlorophyll) will coagulate. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and tip the contents into a large bowl containing 500g ice cubes. Pass through a fine sieve lined with muslin, discarding the liquid and keeping the green chlorophyll. Bring up the corners of the muslin and twist into a ball to squeeze out the excess moisture. This should yield a deep green paste. You will need 100g of the chlorophyll for the pasta dough.
Place the ‘00’ flour, salt and a twist of pepper in a food processor. Lightly whisk the 100g chlorophyll with the eggs, yolks and olive oil and then gradually add to the flour while the machine is running. You are looking for a crumb-like mix, which will probably not require quite all of the egg. If the mix clumps into a ball it is too wet; if this happens, add a little more flour to obtain the right consistency.
Turn out on to a work surface, press together firmly and then knead briefly to form a smooth, firm dough. Wrap in cling film or vacuum pack and chill overnight.
CRAB
Put a large pan of generously salted water on to boil. Kill the crab by piercing the head between the eyes with a very sharp, heavy knife, then plunge it into the boiling water and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the water and leave to cool. Crack the claws, the legs and the body open and extract the white meat, reserving the shells for the bisque. Pick through the meat carefully to ensure there are no fragments of shell in it. You will need 250g white meat. Chill it for half an hour, then carefully mix it into the scallop mousse. Add the basil and place the mixture in a piping bag fitted with a large, plain nozzle. Store in the fridge.
SHELLFISH CAPPUCCINO
Heat a large, shallow, heavy-based casserole. Add the oil, followed by the crab shells, and sauté for 2–3 minutes over a high heat. Add half the butter, followed by the vegetables, aromatics and garlic, and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Season with a generous pinch of salt, stir in the tomato purée and then place in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6 for 5 minutes. Place back on the hob, add the Madeira and simmer until it has almost completely evaporated. Add enough water just to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon and basil and leave to rest, covered, for half an hour. Pass through a fine sieve, return to the heat and simmer until reduced to 200ml. This should be an intensely flavoured shellfish reduction.
CHAMPAGNE FOAM
Heat a medium, heavy-based pan and add the scallop skirts. They will release a lot of juice. Allow this to evaporate completely, then add the white wine, half the champagne, the shallots, spices, lemon zest and a pinch of salt. Boil until syrupy and almost completely evaporated. Cover with the cream, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 15 minutes, without letting it reduce too much. Pass through a fine sieve, pressing on the shallots with a wooden spoon to squeeze out all the liquid, then return to the heat in a fresh pan. Simmer until it has reduced by about a third and is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the remaining champagne and the cayenne pepper, then remove from the heat and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
TO ASSEMBLE THE LASAGNE
Roll out the pasta dough as described on Rolling Fresh Pasta. Cut into three strips 30cm long (you won’t need all the pasta dough for this recipe but the remainder can be stored, well wrapped, in the freezer). Blanch the strips in a large pan of boiling salted water for 1 minute, then drain and refresh under cold running water. Lay the pasta sheets out on a kitchen towel and cut out 32 discs, using a plain 4cm cutter.
Cut out 8 pieces of baking parchment, 5cm square, and on top of each set a buttered stainless steel ring mould, 4cm diameter and 4cm deep. Place a disc of pasta in the base of each. Pipe each ring mould one third full with the crab mix, place another disc of pasta on top, then repeat this twice more, finishing with a pasta disc. You could store these in the fridge for up to a day, if necessary.
TO SERVE
Place the champagne foam in a 500ml foam gun, charge with 2 cartridges and set in a pan of hand-hot water.
Bring the shellfish bisque to the boil. Add the remaining 50g butter and the milk and heat to near-simmering point (about 80°C). Carefully aerate with a hand blender to check the consistency – it should form a creamy froth, which should hold for several minutes. It will not aerate if it is too cold, and will collapse if the mix has boiled – in which case, adjust the heat and re-blend.
Put the lasagnes, still on their parchment squares, in a steamer, cover and steam for 10 minutes. Remove from the steamer and place the lasagnes, still in their rings, in 8 preheated bowls. Gently lift off the rings. Blend the cappuccino once more and spoon a generous quantity over each lasagne. Finish with a squirt of the champagne foam – just enough to glaze the top of the lasagne.
SQUID INK LINGUINE WITH RED MULLET, TOMATO, PRESERVED LEMON, BOTTARGA AND FENNEL
SERVES 8
I always enjoy making squid ink linguine – the intense black colour never fails to shock. Here it is served with a collection of ingredients and flavours so harmonious that everything comes together to give one of the all-time great pasta dishes, bursting with the flavours of the Mediterranean.
OVERVIEW
A pasta dough made with squid ink is rolled into linguine and served with a dressing based on four components: a vinaigrette of squid, a tomato fondue, red mullet cooked with fennel and harissa, and preserved lemon. It is finished with grated bottarga – dried mullet roe
FOCUS ON
The texture of the linguine is critical and will be correct only if a good, firm dough is used. Follow the method carefully.
Red mullet deteriorates quickly and can become unpleasantly strong. Buy fish with bright eyes, vibrant colours and a complete covering of scales.
Pasta is not easy to serve in large quantities, as ensuring a consistent proportion of sauce to pasta is tricky. Mix in 4 separate bowls before plating to overcome this.
Source top-quality bottarga.
KEY COMPONENTS
Squid ink linguine
Tomato fondue
Vinaigrette of squid
Red mullet mix
TIMING
The pasta dough should be made the day before. The tomato fondue can be done then too. Everything else must be done on the day, with the squid and red mullet requiring cooking just before serving.
SQUID INK LINGUINE
650g ‘00’ pasta flour
30g salt
180g whole eggs
110g egg yolks
20g squid ink
30ml olive oil
TOMATO FONDUE
8 vine-ripened plum tomatoes
1 large red onion
2 garlic cloves
50ml extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon tomato purée
a pinch of sugar
10 basil leaves
VINAIGRETTE OF SQUID
4 medium squid
1 garlic clove
50ml extra virgin olive oil
a squeeze of lemon juice
RED MULLET
2 fennel bulbs
50ml extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon Pernod
1 teaspoon harissa
4 x 450g red mullet, scaled, filleted and pin bones removed
zest of 1 orange
OTHER INGREDIENTS
1 piece of bottarga (about 100g)
4 quarters of preserved lemon
½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
METHOD
SQUID INK LINGUINE
Make the pasta dough following the method for a firm dough. In this recipe you are simply replacing some of the egg with squid ink. Whisk the eggs, yolks and ink together until completely mixed before you start. Leave the dough to rest overnight in the fridge.
Roll out the pasta and make into linguine according to the instructions on Rolling Fresh Pasta.
TOMATO FONDUE
Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Remove the hull from the tomatoes and score a small cross on the top of each. Plunge the tomatoes into the water for 10 seconds, then remove, refresh in iced water for 1 minute and drain. Lift the skins off the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, cut out and discard the seeds and then chop the flesh into rough dice.
Peel and finely chop the red onion. Peel the garlic cloves, cut them in half, remove any green sprouts and smash the cloves with the side of a heavy-bladed knife. Mince the garlic by continuously chopping with ¼ teaspoon of salt until it turns into a paste.
Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the olive oil, the onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat the onion until it is translucent, then add the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, sugar and garlic and cook very slowly until the tomato has broken down and you have a rich, oily tomato fondue. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Lay the basil leaves on top of each other and cut into fine shreds. Stir into the tomato fondue and set aside, covered, in the fridge.
VINAIGRETTE OF SQUID
Pull the heads off the squid. Squeeze each head so the beak pops out and then cut just above the tentacles and discard the head. Prise off the 2 side flaps with your fingers and discard them. Peel any remaining dark skin off the squid tube. Pull the hard, plastic-like bone out of the squid body and firmly squeeze out any pulp from the tube. Insert a knife inside the tubes and cut down one side to open them out. Scrape clean with the knife. Wash the opened-out tubes and tentacles thoroughly and dry on a cloth. Place the tentacles in the fridge. Cut the flat pieces into long strips 5mm wide and then cut across into 5mm dice.
Crush the garlic with the side of a heavy-bladed knife. Place the oil in a large, heavy-based pan and warm over a medium heat. Add the squid, garlic and a pinch of salt. Cook briefly and gently until the squid turns white – about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl and add the lemon juice. Set aside at room temperature.
RED MULLET
Trim the tips off the fennel bulbs and 1cm off the base. Break them into individual layers and cut into small dice. Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the olive oil, shallots, fennel and a pinch of salt. Sweat for 2–3 minutes, until softened, then add the Pernod and cook until it has completely evaporated.
Remove from the heat, leave to cool, then stir in the harissa. Set aside at room temperature.
There are two options for cooking the red mullet: in a water bath or en papillote in the oven.
METHOD 1: WATER BATH
Season the red mullet fillets with salt and grate the orange zest over them. Place the fillets in sous-vide bags, 2 fillets per bag, add the fennel mix, smooth it over the fish and seal the bags at maximum vacuum. Poach in a water bath at 55°C for 8 minutes. Remove, allow to cool for 5 minutes, then tip the contents of the 4 bags into a bowl and gently fork through, creating a delicious oily mix of translucent mullet flakes and fennel. Set aside, covered, at room temperature.
METHOD 2: OVEN
Spread half the fennel mix over the base of a small baking dish. Season the red mullet fillets with salt and orange zest as above and lay them on top of the fennel. Cover with the remaining mix and seal the dish with foil. Place in an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½ and bake for 7–10 minutes. Check to see the mullet is cooked by pressing with a fork – it should break up into flakes. Tip it into a bowl and fork through as above.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
If the bottarga is wax coated, remove the wax. Cut all the flesh from the preserved lemon quarters and discard. Rinse the skin thoroughly and use a knife to remove all the zest. Rinse again and cut it into fine strips, then across into very fine dice.
TO SERVE
Place 4 mixing bowls on the counter. Split the squid mixture in half and divide one half between the bowls. Divide the red mullet between the bowls and similarly divide the tomato fondue and preserved lemon. Add the chopped parsley to the remaining squid.
Briefly sauté the squid tentacles in a hot non-stick pan with the tablespoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Set aside. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil. Two portions at a time, plunge the linguine into the water and leave for 15 seconds, then drain and transfer to one of the 4 bowls. Toss carefully to ensure an even mix.
Lay out 8 preheated plates and divide the contents of each bowl between 2 plates. Spoon over the squid and parsley vinaigrette, garnish with the tentacles and then grate the bottarga over the top with a microplane.
RAVIOLI OF LOBSTER WITH MELON, LARDO DI COLONNATA AND A SHELLFISH BISQUE
SERVES 8
We make a lot of ravioli at The Square, simply because they deliver. Once the technique is mastered, they are quick to make, fantastic vehicles for flavour, offer great consistency in service and, most importantly, are delicious to eat. This dish has complex flavours – primarily the sweetness of the shellfish and melon is paired with the earthiness of the lardo.
OVERVIEW
The ravioli itself is an assembly of lobster meat, scallop mousse and basil. It is served with an intense vinaigrette, based on a shellfish jus (a reduction of a fragrant shellfish stock), the finely diced lardo and the fat released when it was rendered. It is garnished with slivers of melon and an aerated shellfish bisque.
FOCUS ON
I never tire of pasta work but the enjoyment of it and the end result are utterly dependent on a well-made dough, with appropriate firmness for the job in hand. Spend 10 minutes, if necessary, getting the dough as it should be. Too wet and you will end up tearing your hair out; too dry and you will dislocate your knuckles trying to get the pasta to stick together.
Fresh shellfish is critical here.
Lardo di colonnata is cured with herbs and is superior to a standard slab of lardo (pork fat). It is Italian, from the neck of the animal, and is quite simply the best.
KEY COMPONENTS
Pasta dough
Lobster mix
Shellfish bisque
Vinaigrette
TIMING
All these components can be made the day before but the pasta dough must be. The making of the ravioli needs to be as close to the serving time as practically possible. Minutes are not crucial here – a few hours beforehand is fine.
LOBSTER RAVIOLI
2 x 500g native lobsters (about 400g of cooked meat is required)
1 quantity of Scallop Mousse
a squeeze of lemon juice
8 basil leaves, finely sliced
1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough
SHELLFISH BISQUE
50ml grapeseed oil
the shells from the lobster, above
100g unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely sliced
½ carrot, finely sliced
½ celery stick, finely sliced
½ leek, finely sliced
½ teaspoon each of coriander seeds and fennel seeds
2 star anise
½ head of garlic
1 tablespoon tomato purée
200ml Madeira
3 slices of lemon
½ bunch of basil
200ml semi-skimmed milk
VINAIGRETTE
150g lardo di colonnata, finely diced
a squeeze of lemon
100g Charentais or other ripe melon, finely diced
OTHER INGREDIENTS
1 Charentais or other ripe melon
METHOD
LOBSTER RAVIOLI
Place the lobsters in the freezer for 1–2 hours to render them comatose. Bring a very large pan of salted water bring to the boil. Plunge the lobsters into the boiling water, turn the heat down and bring back to a bare simmer, cooking the lobsters for 10 minutes in total. Remove the lobsters and allow to cool to room temperature but don’t put them in the fridge.
While they are cooling, make the scallop mousse.
Remove the lobster meat from the shells as follows (keep the shells for the bisque): get a large chopping board and 3 medium bowls lined up in front of you. Pull the lobster tail from the head by gently twisting and pulling. Put the tail in bowl 1. Pull the claws and knuckles away from the head, then snap the claw away from the other 2 knuckles and place all these pieces in bowl 2. Pull all the legs off the head section and place in bowl 3. Now prise the upper head shell and lower section apart. Discard the lower section and place the upper shell in bowl 3. Keep clean, wiping away any watery juices as you work.
Now take a lobster tail, turn it on its side and press carefully but firmly down. The shell will crack, allowing you to prise the shell away and extract the tail meat in one plump piece. Put the shell in bowl 3. Put the tail meat into a clean bowl. Using the back of a cleaver, a heavy knife or lobster scissors, crack the claw and knuckle shells. Extract the meat, putting the meat and empty shells in the appropriate bowls. The claws themselves have a thin, plate-like shell within them. Gently push the crab-like claw meat away from this and pull this shell out. You should now have 2 bowls in use, one full of shells and the other containing meat.
To make the lobster mix, cut the lobster tails in half, removing the dark intestinal tract. Roughly chop this meat, along with the knuckles, and season with the lemon juice. Add to the scallop mousse with the basil and mix gently to combine. Cut the claws horizontally in half and chill.
Make the ravioli following the method on Making Ravioli. You will need to cut out 16 discs of pasta, 9cm in diameter, to make 8 ravioli, filling them with 100g lobster mix each. Complete the ravioli as described on Making Ravioli, blanching them for 2 minutes.
SHELLFISH BISQUE
Heat a large, shallow, heavy-based casserole. Add the oil, followed by the lobster shells, and sauté for 2–3 minutes over a high heat. Add half the butter, followed by the vegetables, aromatics and garlic, and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Season with a generous pinch of salt, stir in the tomato purée and then transfer to an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Cook for 5 minutes, then place back on the hob. Add the Madeira and simmer until it has completely evaporated. Add enough water just to cover, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon and basil and then cover and leave to rest for half an hour. Pass through a fine sieve, return to the heat and simmer until reduced to 200ml. This should be an intensely flavoured shellfish reduction. Remove 50ml for use in the vinaigrette. Place the remaining shellfish bisque in a saucepan and set aside.
VINAIGRETTE
Place the diced lardo in a pan and sweat over a medium heat in order to render the fat. Continue until the lardo just begins to colour, then remove from the heat and add the reserved 50ml shellfish reduction and a drop or two of lemon juice. Do not add the melon until you are about to serve the ravioli.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
Pare the skin away from the melon, keeping the melon whole. Slice it lengthwise into large, wafer-thin sheets, if you have a ham slicer. If not, cut the melon into pieces and then into long, wafer-thin strips.
TO SERVE
Remove the lobster claws from the fridge. Bring a large pan of lightly salted water to the boil for the pasta.
Bring the bisque to the boil. Add the remaining 50g butter and the milk and heat to near-simmering point (about 80°C). Carefully aerate with a hand blender to check the consistency – it should form a creamy froth, which should hold for several minutes. It will not aerate if it is too cold, and will collapse if the mix has boiled – in which case, adjust the heat and re-blend.
Warm the vinaigrette through and add the diced melon. Reheat the ravioli in the pan of boiling salted water for 4 minutes. Meanwhile, lay out 8 preheated bowls and place a ruffled sheet of melon in each. Remove the ravioli from the water, drain them on a kitchen towel and place one in each bowl on the melon. Place half a lobster claw on each, then spoon over the vinaigrette, ensuring you get an even mix of fat, juice and dice. Finish by briefly re-blending the bisque and spooning some around each ravioli.
EGG YOLK RAVIOLI WITH CALF’S TAIL, A FONDUE OF CEPS AND WHITE TRUFFLE
SERVES 8
Food is at its best when it not only stimulates all the senses simultaneously but nourishes the soul too. This dish is comfort food refined to its most elegant – the smothering of white truffle at the table lifts it into the realms of hedonism.
OVERVIEW
The ravioli are filled with a mix of braised calf’s tail, ceps and chicken mousse. This is piped into a ring on a sheet of pasta, an egg yolk dropped in the middle and a second sheet of pasta pressed over the top. They are served with a fondue of ceps on a reduction of the calf’s tail braising liquor, finished with white truffle and Parmesan.
FOCUS ON
You should be able to order calf’s tail from your butcher.
Source firm, fresh ceps to ensure they are not infested with worms.
Pre-order white truffles to ensure they are fresh and fragrant.
Spend time getting the pasta dough right – this will make a huge difference later on.
Making these ravioli requires a gentle pair of hands. Work methodically and efficiently and ensure the pasta discs are not left exposed to the air, or they will dry out.
KEY COMPONENTS
Calf’s tail
Chicken mousse
Ravioli mix
Pasta dough
Sauce
TIMING
The calf’s tail, chicken mousse, ravioli mix, pasta dough and sauce should all be prepared the day before. The ravioli can be made up to 6 hours in advance but the fondue of ceps should be done just before serving.
CALF’S TAIL
1 calf’s tail, cut into sections at the joints
25ml vegetable oil
25g unsalted butter
½ Spanish onion, cut in half
½ celery stick, cut in half
1 small carrot, cut into 4
½ leek, cut in half
100g button mushrooms, cut in half
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of thyme
EGG YOLK RAVIOLI
100g fresh ceps
15g unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely diced
1 quantity of Chicken Mousse
1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough
8 large egg yolks
SAUCE
½ white onion, peeled
50g fresh ceps
20g unsalted butter
OTHER INGREDIENTS
200g fresh ceps
25g unsalted butter
50g piece of aged Parmesan
80g white truffle
METHOD
CALF’S TAIL
Place a heavy-based casserole over a medium heat and leave for 2 minutes. Season the calf’s tail with salt and pepper. Add the oil to the pan and place the tail in, cut-surface down. Try to keep all the pieces upright so they caramelise evenly. Once the first side is golden, turn the pieces over to repeat for the second side. Now colour the edges. Remove them from the pan and add the butter. Once melted, add the vegetables and turn up the heat if necessary, in order to give them a slight golden colour. Return the tail to the pan, along with the bay leaf and thyme, then add enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, skim off any scum from the surface, cover with a lid or a piece of baking parchment and transfer to an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 2½ hours or until the meat is tender enough to fall away from the bone. If it is still firm, return to the oven for 30 minutes and then check again. Once it is cooked, set aside to cool.
Lift out the pieces of tail, remove the meat from the bone, season lightly and roughly chop any larger pieces. Set aside, covered, in the fridge. Pass the stock through a fine sieve into a saucepan, discarding the bones and vegetables. Boil until it has reduced enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a small pan and set aside, covered, in the fridge.
EGG YOLK RAVIOLI
Carefully cut away any dirty base from the stems of the ceps, then peel the stems and remove any soft gills from the caps. Wipe the ceps with a damp cloth and dice them into rough 1cm pieces. Melt the butter in a heavy-based, saucepan, add the shallots and a pinch of salt and sweat until translucent. Add the ceps and another small pinch of salt and sweat, stirring frequently, for 3–4 minutes. Transfer to a small dish and chill.
Place 350g of the calf’s tail meat in a bowl and add the chicken mousse and the cep and shallot mix. Stir until thoroughly mixed; you should have 700g. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1.5cm nozzle and set aside in the fridge to chill.
Make the ravioli following the method on Making Ravioli. You will need to cut out 16 discs of pasta, 15cm in diameter. On half the pasta discs, pipe a ring of the filling mix about 7cm across, leaving a hole in the centre for the egg yolk. Drop an egg yolk into the hole. Now complete the ravioli, as described on Making Ravioli, blanching them for 2 minutes.
SAUCE
Cut the onion half in half again, separate into single layers and methodically cut into 5mm dice. Clean the ceps as above and cut into 5mm dice. Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan, add the onion and a pinch of salt and sweat for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the ceps and a further small pinch of salt and sweat for 2–3 minutes longer.
Place the pan of reduced calf’s tail cooking liquor over a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Pour it into a measuring jug to check the quantity, then return 200ml to the pan. Add the ceps and onion and allow to tick over for 5 minutes. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning as necessary, then leave to cool.
TO SERVE
Place a large pan of salted water on to boil for the ravioli. Clean the ceps as before and slice finely on a mandoline. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based pan. When it is sizzling, add the ceps with a pinch of salt and a few turns of a pepper mill. Gently stir the ceps and cook for 4–5 minutes, until they are just tender and coated in their own juices. Turn off the heat and keep warm. Heat up the sauce.
Drop the ravioli into the pan of boiling water. Turn down the heat and cook at a bare simmer for 4 minutes. Carefully lift the ravioli out and put on a preheated tray.
Lay out 8 preheated bowls and divide the ceps between them. Sit the ravioli on top and spoon some sauce over each one. Using a microplane, grate a small quantity of Parmesan over each dish and finish with a generous portion (10g) of shaved white truffle, using a truffle slicer on its finest setting.
HAND-ROLLED MACARONI WITH NEW SEASON’S MORELS AND SPRING TRUFFLE PESTO
SERVES 8
More often than not when new seasonal ingredients appear in the kitchen, we choose to serve them in a simple way so that they can be savoured in all their glory. Sometimes it is appropriate to leave an ingredient to sing loud and clear on its own, but here the morels are served with long tubes of pasta, where the textural pairing brings an additional dimension to the dish. This is, however, all about the morels.
OVERVIEW
A firm pasta dough is rolled into rectangular sheets, which are in turn rolled into long tubes. These are blanched, refreshed and stored ready for use. The morels are simply sweated in butter and brought together into an emulsion with chicken stock and butter. This sauce is finished with new season’s grelot onions, wild garlic leaves and a pesto made with spring white truffle, crushed hazelnuts and Parmesan.
FOCUS ON
The firmness of the pasta dough is important to prevent the tubes collapsing when blanched – follow the recipe to the gram!
Morels have very little aroma when raw – unless, that is, they are off, in which case they have a strong musty, fungal smell. Any that are soft, wet and strong smelling must be discarded or their flavour will permeate the whole dish.
Spring white truffles have a short season and a very particular flavour. The pesto will work with any fresh truffle but the seasonal arrival of morels and spring truffle makes for a harmonious pairing.
Grelot onions have a round, bulbous appearance and are far superior to a standard, slim spring onion.
KEY COMPONENTS
Hand-rolled macaroni
Mushroom stock
Spring truffle pesto
TIMING
The pasta dough should be made the day before. The mushroom stock and pesto can be made then too. The macaroni should be rolled and blanched no more than 4 hours before serving and the sauce finished with the onions and morels within a hour or so of serving.
MACARONI
1 quantity of Firm Pasta Dough
MUSHROOM STOCK
15g unsalted butter
1 white onion, sliced
½ leek, sliced
500g small button mushrooms, sliced
800ml Chicken Stock
1 bay leaf
SPRING TRUFFLE PESTO
10g spring white truffle
20g skinned hazelnuts
20g Parmesan cheese
40ml extra virgin cold-pressed olive oil
10ml grapeseed oil
OTHER INGREDIENTS
24 grelot onions
120 small morels (about 2cm in diameter)
½ bunch of flat-leaf parsley
225g unsalted butter
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
24 wild garlic leaves
75g Parmesan cheese, grated
METHOD
MACARONI
Roll out the pasta dough and make the macaroni as described on Rolling Fresh Pasta and Making Macaroni. You will need 80 macaroni.
MUSHROOM STOCK
Place a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, swirl the pan to melt it and then add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the onion is softened, then add the leek and cook for 2 minutes longer. Add the mushrooms and a further pinch of salt and cook for 5 more minutes, until their released moisture has evaporated. Add the stock and bay leaf to the pan, bring to the boil and cook at a bare simmer for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat, leave to rest for 10 minutes, then pass through a colander. Discard the solids and pour the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl. Set aside to cool, then cover and chill.
SPRING TRUFFLE PESTO
Using a nailbrush and warm water, gently but thoroughly scrub the truffle, then rinse and pat dry.
Scatter the hazelnuts over a baking sheet, place in an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 and roast for 8–10 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven, set aside to cool and then place in a bowl. Crush to crumbs with the end of a rolling pin. Using a fine grater or a microplane, grate the truffle into the bowl and similarly grate in the Parmesan. Add the oils, a pinch of salt and several twists of pepper and stir to mix. Taste, adjust the seasoning if necessary and set aside, covered, in the fridge.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
Trim the root of the onions, lift off the outside leaf if withered and trim the top to 3cm from the bulb. Holding on to the stalk, slice the onion bulbs into fine round slices on a mandoline. Cover and set aside.
Trim the base of the morel stalks, then plunge the mushrooms into a sink of cold water and agitate for 30 seconds. Lift out the mushrooms, dry in a salad spinner and transfer to a tray lined with a kitchen cloth. Cover and set aside.
Pick the parsley leaves from the stalks, wash under cold running water and spin them dry in a salad spinner. Stack them up 8 or so at a time and cut into fine shreds. Cover and chill.
TO SERVE
Remove the pesto from the fridge. Finish the morel sauce an hour before serving. Place a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add 50g of the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, add the grelot onions and a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cover with 350ml of the mushroom stock. Place a large, heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add 50g of the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, then add the morels, a generous pinch of salt and the garlic and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Cover with 350ml of the mushroom stock, bring to the boil and transfer to the onion pan. Simmer for 5 minutes. Divide this mixture between 2 pans, add 50g butter to each pan, bring to near boiling point and stir to emulsify the butter. Keep hot.
Place a large pan of salted water on to boil. Add the macaroni to the pan, cook for 1 minute and then drain through a colander. Divide the macaroni between the 2 pans of sauce, stir to coat, then add the remaining 75g butter and the pesto. Leave to warm through then stir gently. Add the garlic leaves and stir once more.
Lay out 8 preheated large bowls. Spoon 10 macaroni and 3 garlic leaves into each bowl and spoon over a generous quantity of morel sauce. Finish with the grated Parmesan.
TAGLIATELLE WITH WHITE TRUFFLE FROM ALBA
SERVES 8
There is absolutely nothing new about this dish but I would struggle to place anything above it on a list of ‘last meals’. When it comes together correctly, it is just a truly unbelievable creation to eat. After a quarter of a century of tasting white truffle dishes all over the world, I find it is this simple assembly that wins hands down. The sensuous texture of tagliatelle, the richness of butter, the staggering aroma of white truffle and the clout of Parmesan come together as one of the all-time greats.
OVERVIEW
A firm pasta dough is made, left to rest, rolled and cut into tagliatelle, then blanched in boiling water, refreshed, drained and stored ready for use. The sauce for the pasta is a chicken-based mushroom stock enriched with butter and the two are simply brought together in a pan and served with a generous shaving of truffle and Parmesan.
FOCUS ON
If you are going to use white truffle, come to terms with the necessary financial investment and buy only the best – decent-sized truffles from Alba in Italy. Truffles from anywhere else are ultimately a compromise.
The quality of the tagliatelle is paramount and, whilst fresh is probably the best, a top-quality bought product could be substituted if you don’t want to make your own.
Serving pasta to 8 people simultaneously is not easy. I would advise borrowing some saucepans with rounded sides so you have 4 in total and doing no more than 2 pans at a time – but you can have 2 pans full of hot sauce ready to go.
KEY COMPONENTS
Tagliatelle
Mushroom stock
TIMING
The pasta dough can be made the day before and must have at least 2 hours to rest before use. The stock can be made the day before too. The tagliatelle should not be rolled and blanched more then 2 hours in advance. All that is to be done at the last minute is bringing the tagliatelle and sauce together and finishing with Parmesan and truffle.
TAGLIATELLE
2 quantities of Firm Pasta Dough
MUSHROOM STOCK
25g unsalted butter
100g shallots, finely sliced
1kg small button mushrooms, sliced
1 litre Chicken Stock
1 bay leaf
OTHER INGREDIENTS
100g white truffles
200g unsalted butter
75g Parmesan cheese
100ml olive oil
METHOD
TAGLIATELLE
Roll out the pasta dough and make the tagliatelle as described on Rolling Fresh Pasta.
MUSHROOM STOCK
Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, swirl the pan to melt it and then add the shallots and a pinch of salt. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft and translucent. Add the mushrooms and another pinch of salt and sweat for 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and bay leaf, bring to the boil and cook at a bare simmer for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Pass through a colander, dispose of the solids and then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Taste the stock and season fully. Set aside to cool, then cover and chill.
OTHER INGREDIENTS
Scrub the truffles gently with a nailbrush, then rinse briefly in warm water to get rid of any grit. Pat dry and set aside.
TO SERVE
Place a large pan of salted water on to boil. Place 200ml of the stock into each of 4 pans and divide the butter between them. Place over a medium heat and bring to the boil.
Lay out 8 preheated large shallow bowls. Grate a dusting of Parmesan into each one. Using a truffle slicer set as fine as possible, shave 10 or so slices of truffle into each bowl.
Using a blanching basket or sieve, dip 2 portions of pasta at a time into the boiling water for 5 seconds. Tap the basket/sieve to get rid of any excess water and then tip the 2 portions of pasta into one pan of stock. Quickly repeat with the next 2 portions. Toss the pasta over the heat for a minute or so, until the stock and butter mix has coated it, and, using a pair of tongs, divide the pasta between 2 bowls. Repeat with the second pan and then repeat the whole process again for the remaining 4 portions of pasta. Grate more Parmesan over and shave all the remaining truffle over the top.
CANNELLONI OF PYRENEAN LAMB WITH GLAZED LETTUCE AND EWE’S CHEESE
SERVES 8
Pyrenean lamb is one of winter’s truly great European ingredients. The lambs are raised in the French Pyrenean foothills, fed solely on their mother’s milk, and slaughtered when only 45 days old. The resulting meat is not only supremely tender but, surprisingly, bursting with fragrant flavour. When baked slowly, the shoulder melts off the bone, and in this dish forms the contents of cannelloni. Served with juicy but delicate Cos lettuce and lifted with Berkswell cheese, they make a wonderful, flavoursome starter.
OVERVIEW
The shoulder of lamb is rubbed with a mixture of rosemary, garlic, olive oil and salt and then wrapped in foil. After slow baking, the meat is pulled from the bone, roughly chopped, bound with chicken mousse and used to fill the cannelloni. These are served with glazed Cos lettuce hearts that have been cooked with finely diced vegetables, chicken stock and butter, and the dish is finished with the cooking juices, olive oil and grated Berkswell cheese.
FOCUS ON
Whilst any lamb shoulder could be used, those from Pyrenean lamb are truly unique. Pre-ordering from a specialist butcher might be a possibility, or you can find it online (see Suppliers).
These are not open-ended cannelloni – they are sealed, finger-sized tubes that require careful, methodical preparation. Follow the method accurately.
Braised lettuce can be spectacularly dull! Although it is a delicate garnish by nature, careful seasoning and cooking will give rise to a delicious backdrop to the cannelloni.
Try to find the Berkswell cheese. Parmesan would be fine but this hard sheep’s cheese is a more appropriate choice for this dish.
KEY COMPONENTS
Lamb
Chicken mousse
Cannelloni
Lettuce
TIMING
The lamb shoulder can be baked and the chicken mousse made up to 24 hours in advance, but the finished cannelloni themselves should be made no more than 4 hours in advance. The Cos lettuce can be cooked up to 2 hours before serving, leaving only reheating the two as last-minute tasks.
LAMB
½ sprig of rosemary
1 garlic clove, crushed or microplaned
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 shoulder of Pyrenean lamb, trimmed of any excess fat
CANNELLONI
1 quantity of Chicken Mousse
1 quantity of Medium Pasta Dough
500g couscous, to rest the pasta on
50ml olive oil
LETTUCE
2 Cos lettuces
75g unsalted butter
2 shallots, very finely diced
½ small carrot, very finely diced
½ small leek, very finely diced
½ celery stick, very finely diced
30g celeriac, very finely diced
200ml Chicken Stock
1 bay leaf
OTHER INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
75g Berkswell cheese
METHOD
LAMB
Pick the leaves off the rosemary, chop them finely and place in a bowl. Stir in the garlic, olive oil and a generous pinch of salt. Rub the lamb shoulder with this mix, place it on a large double sheet of foil, fold the foil over the lamb and seal it by rolling over the edges. Place the lamb in a roasting tray and bake in an oven preheated to 100°C (or a very low gas oven) for 6 hours – at which point the meat should pull away from the bone. Let the lamb rest for half an hour, then unwrap the pouch, drain off and reserve the juices and carefully lift the meat off the bone. Discard any unduly fatty bits but some of the surface fat will make a welcome addition. Run a knife through the lamb so that it is chopped into pieces slightly smaller than 1cm. Taste the meat and season if necessary, then set aside to cool.
CANNELLONI
Mix 250g of the lamb shoulder with 200g of the chicken mousse and transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle. Roll out the pasta dough according to the method on Rolling Fresh Pasta and cut out 10 rectangles, 9cm x 7cm (you will need 8 but it’s useful to have a couple of spares). Cover with cling film to prevent them drying out. Turn the pasta machine to its penultimate setting and pass a rectangle, long side first, through the roller. It should now be approximately 16cm x 12cm. Repeat with the remaining rectangles.
Pipe the lamb mixture down the centre of one sheet, leaving 2cm clear at each end. Lift up the 2 long sides and pinch them together methodically and firmly along the top of the cannelloni to seal it. Now pinch and seal each end. Lift up the cannelloni and, using a pair of scissors, trim off all but 1cm of the excess pasta. Holding the cannelloni across the palm of one hand, use your thumb, index and middle finger to crimp the sealed edge. Place the cannelloni on a tray covered with the raw couscous and repeat with 7 more pasta sheets. Leave to dry for 30 minutes.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the olive oil. Gently drop the cannelloni into the water, turn the heat down and cook at just below a simmer for 6 minutes. Lift them out, refresh in iced water for 6 minutes, then drain. Transfer to a tray lined with a kitchen cloth, cover and chill.
LETTUCE
Trim off any tatty outside leaves from the Cos lettuces. Cut them in half lengthways and then similarly into quarters. Place a shallow, heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add 35g of the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, then add all the diced vegetables and a generous pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or so, until the vegetables are tender. Drain through a sieve. Place the pan back over a medium heat and add the remaining butter, a sprinkling of salt and 4 quarters of Cos. Cook for 2–3 minutes, turning as required, until they are golden all over. Remove from the pan carefully, transfer to a tray, season sparingly and set aside. Repeat for the remaining 4 pieces of lettuce.
Place all the lettuce back in the pan, cover with the diced vegetables, add the chicken stock and bay leaf and place over a high heat. Bring to the boil, then transfer to an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 and cook for 8–10 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 10 minutes. If there is an excess of chicken stock still in the pan, lift out the lettuce, boil the stock over a high heat to reduce it to a buttery glaze and then return the lettuce to the pan.
TO SERVE
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and add the tablespoon of olive oil. Carefully drop in the cannelloni, turn down the heat and cook for 6 minutes.
Reheat the lettuce. Warm the reserved lamb cooking juices through in a small pan and add the extra virgin olive oil. Lay out 8 large, shallow bowls. Lift out the lettuce quarters one at a time and transfer to a bowl. Place some of the diced vegetables on the lettuce and the remainder in the lamb juice. Carefully lift out the cannelloni, set them on top of the lettuce, spoon some of the juices over the cannelloni and finish by grating the Berkswell cheese on top.
HAND-ROLLED LINGUINE WITH PERIGORD TRUFFLE AND PARMESAN
SERVES 8
Every year when Périgord truffles are in season, from January to March, I try to think of new ways to use them. The truth is, truffle dishes are best kept simple and they are probably most enjoyable when the primary component acts as a textural, neutral-flavoured vehicle for the truffle. This dish demonstrates this perfectly. It is modest, humble, yet utterly indulgent.
OVERVIEW
A fresh pasta dough is rolled and cut into linguine, then allowed to part dry. It is blanched in salted water, refreshed and simply finished with a generous quantity of black truffle butter, sweated leeks, mushroom stock and Parmesan.
FOCUS ON
The quality of the pasta. This is the crux of the dish and, although simple enough, requires attention to detail to be first class. Spend time getting the dough right.
You must start with raw truffles. Bought truffles in juice are too severe a compromise to justify attempting this dish. Fresh truffles will not be cheap but it will be money well spent.
The final serving of the pasta needs to be quick and efficient. Use several pans rather than one big one and perhaps recruit an assistant!
KEY COMPONENTS
Linguine
Truffle butter
Leeks
Mushroom stock
TIMING
The pasta dough should be made the day before. It will not suffer if it is par-cooked in advance, as long as it was well prepared in the first place. Do not par-cook it more than 6 hours in advance. The truffle butter is extremely simple to make and should be done about an hour before serving. The leeks can be done then, too.
LINGUINE
2 quantities of Firm Pasta Dough
TRUFFLE BUTTER
170g unsalted butter
40g fresh black Périgord truffles
4g salt
LEEKS
2 long, slim leeks
100g unsalted butter
MUSHROOM STOCK
25g unsalted butter
1 white onion, finely sliced
1kg button mushrooms, finely sliced
1 bay leaf
OTHER INGREDIENTS
200g unsalted butter
75g 24-month-aged Parmesan cheese, finely grated
METHOD
LINGUINE
Roll out the pasta dough and make the linguine as described on Rolling Fresh Pasta.
TRUFFLE BUTTER
Melt the butter in a pan over a gentle heat. Using a fine grater or microplane, grate all the truffles directly into the butter.
Add the salt and 35ml water. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then remove from the heat and continue stirring for a minute longer. You should have a slate-grey, emulsified, buttery mix. Adjust the seasoning if necessary but a taste will reveal exactly why you are doing all of this in the first place! Set aside, covered, at room temperature.
LEEKS
Remove and discard the outside layer of the leeks and cut them in half lengthways. Finely slice them, place in a large colander and wash vigorously under running water. Check there is no residual grit. Place a heavy-based pan on a medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, allow it to melt and then add the leeks with a generous pinch of salt. Cook the leeks for 4–5 minutes, stirring continuously, until they are soft and tender. Do not let them colour at all. If they start to dry out before they are soft, add a splash of water. Once tender, allow to cool to room temperature and then transfer to a bowl. Set aside in the fridge, covered.
MUSHROOM STOCK
Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan and add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Add the mushrooms, turn up the heat and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until they have released their moisture. Cover with 2 litres of water, bring to the boil, add the bay leaf and simmer for 20 minutes. Allow to cool, then pass through a sieve into a bowl, cover and chill.
TO SERVE
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil for the pasta. Pour 200ml of the mushroom stock into each of 4 pans and divide the butter between them. Bring the pans to the boil and add the leeks. Add the truffle butter, dividing it proportionally between the pans, and bring back to a simmer.
Using a blanching basket or sieve, dip 2 portions of pasta at a time into the boiling water for 5 seconds. Tap the basket/sieve to get rid of any excess water and then tip the 2 portions of pasta into one pan of stock. Quickly repeat with the next 2 portions. Toss the pasta over the heat for a minute or so, until the stock and butter mix has coated it; you should have a piping-hot mass of truffly, slippery pasta with no real excess of liquid. Using a pair of tongs, divide the pasta between 2 bowls. Repeat with the second pan and then repeat the whole process again for the remaining 4 portions of pasta. Finish with the finely grated Parmesan.
STUFFED AND GLAZED CHICKEN WINGS WITH VACHERIN MONT D’OR, MACARONI AND FONDUE OF LEEKS AND CHANTERELLES
SERVES 8
There is something particularly satisfying about preparing an elegant and refined dish from the simplest, humblest ingredients. This is one such dish and its lengthy preparation is well rewarded. Mont d’Or is a magnificent cheese, whose smooth melting properties work wonders in cloaking the bite-sized, soft and succulent chicken wings in a heady, golden glaze.
OVERVIEW
The large section of a chicken wing is braised until tender, the bone is removed and the resulting cavity filled with a chicken mousse. The wings are then wrapped in cling film and steamed. They are reheated and glazed in chicken stock and served with hand-rolled macaroni, a buttery mix of leeks and chanterelles and Vacherin Mont d’Or.
FOCUS ON
Source large wings from organic or free range birds. This dish has a significant textural element to it and small farmed chicken wings have very little to offer in this department.
Ensure you have a ripe Vacherin, so it is soft and oozing when warmed.
Make sure you let the macaroni dry out before blanching them, so they retain some texture when cooked.
Chanterelles come in various guises. Try to source yellow ones, which have the best flavour and most delicate texture.
KEY COMPONENTS
Chicken mousse
Chicken wings
Macaroni
Leeks and chanterelles
TIMING
The chicken mousse can be made and the chicken wings steamed the day before. The pasta dough is best made the day before and in any event must be made at least 2 hours before using. The leeks and chanterelles can be prepared well in advance but their cooking should be delayed until an hour or so before serving. The wings are glazed during the last-minute assembly of the dish.
CHICKEN MOUSSE
150g skinless chicken breast
150ml double cream
½ egg
10 tarragon leaves, finely chopped
CHICKEN WINGS
32 large free-range or organic chicken wings
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
100g unsalted butter
1 large leek, finely sliced
6 shallots, sliced
100g button mushrooms, quartered
a sprig of thyme
1 bay leaf
1.2 litres Chicken Stock
MACARONI
1 quantity of Firm Pasta Dough
LEEKS AND CHANTERELLES
1 large long, firm, pale leek
100g yellow chanterelle mushrooms
60g unsalted butter
OTHER INGREDIENTS
25g unsalted butter
1 x 400g ripe Vacherin Mont d’Or, surface crust removed
METHOD
CHICKEN MOUSSE
Make the mousse as described on Chicken Mousse. Fold in the tarragon, transfer the mousse to a piping bag fitted with a 5mm nozzle and chill.
THE CHICKEN WINGS
Separate the large section of chicken wing from the rest by carefully cutting through the joints on either side. Discard, or use elsewhere, the wing trim. Place a large shallow, ovenproof pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Season the wings with salt and pepper, add the grapeseed oil to the pan and lay half the wings in it. Cook until they are golden, then add half the butter, allow it to melt and turn the wings over. Cook until the second side is coloured. Remove the wings from the pan and repeat with the second batch and the remaining butter. Remove these from the pan, set aside with the first batch and add the leek, shallots, mushrooms and a pinch of salt to the pan. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables have softened and released their moisture. Place the wings back in the pan, add the thyme, bay leaf and chicken stock and bring to the boil. Cover and transfer to an oven preheated to 130°C/Gas Mark ¾. Cook for 35 minutes, then lift out a wing and check that the bone is loose from the meat when carefully pulled. If it seems tough and tight, replace the lid and return the pan to the oven. Once the wings are cooked, leave to cool to room temperature.
Lift the wings out of the pan and set aside. Pour the stock through a colander, discard the solids and pass the stock through a fine sieve. Cover and chill.
Lift the wings up and simply pull the bones out, being careful not to damage the wings or they will burst open when stuffed. Lay the wings out, sprinkle them sparingly with salt and pepper and then pick them up one at a time and pipe the cavity, where the bone was, full of chicken mousse. Transfer the wings to the fridge for 30 minutes.
For each wing, lay out a sheet of cling film about 20cm square. Place the wing at the end near you, fold the cling film over and roll it up securely. Tie one end with a knot, slide the stuffed wing inside the roll tightly up to the knot and tie a second knot at the other end, as close to the wing as you can. Trim off any excess cling film.
Set up a steamer and steam the wings for 4 minutes. Remove from the steamer, refresh in iced water for 4 minutes and then transfer to the fridge.
MACARONI
Roll out the pasta dough and make the macaroni as described on Rolling Fresh Pasta and Making Macaroni. You will need 24 macaroni.
LEEKS AND CHANTERELLES
Trim the green top off the leek and remove the outer layer. Finely slice the leek and wash well under cold running water, then set aside. Trim the base off the chanterelle stalks. Plunge the mushrooms into a sink of cold water, agitate for 30 seconds, then dry in a salad spinner. Transfer to a tray lined with a kitchen cloth and leave to dry further for 30 minutes.
An hour or so before serving, place a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, then add the leek and a pinch of salt. Cook for 4–5 minutes, until tender. Add the chanterelles and another pinch of salt and cook for a further 4–5 minutes, until all their released moisture has evaporated. Add a tablespoon of the chicken cooking liquor to moisten the mix and set aside.
TO SERVE
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Unwrap the chicken wings, place them in a large shallow pan in a single layer, cover with 800ml of their cooking liquor and bring to the boil. Cook for 4–5 minutes. Add 15g of the butter and swirl the pan until the wings are glazed in the chicken stock and butter.
Place the leeks and chanterelles over a medium heat. Drop the macaroni into the pan of boiling water and cook for 30 seconds, then drain and transfer to the leek pan. Add a splash of the chicken liquor – just enough to moisten everything – and the remaining 10g butter, heat through and set aside.
Lay out 8 shallow preheated bowls. Divide half the leek and macaroni mix between them and place 3 wings on top of each. Put another quarter of the leek and macaroni on top of the wings and finish with a final wing and the remaining macaroni mix. Place a generous spoonful of Vacherin on top and warm briefly under the grill.
