Harry’s Bar Cookbook

Many people come to Harry’s Bar just to have our chocolate cake. The recipe has changed slightly over the years, but this is essentially the same cake we have always served. It is sometimes also called a sacher, but it has nothing to do with a Viennese Sacher torte. For the filling, use the best bittersweet chocolate you can get.

In 1989 there was a big party in Spoleto, where we operate the restaurant for the music festival, to celebrate the 70th birthday of the composer Gian Carlo Menotti. We baked this chocolate cake in the form of a book and gave it the title of Menotti’s autobiography: Le Memorie di Gian Carlo Menotti.

For the filling:

1 cup heavy cream (250 ml)

½ pound bittersweet chocolate, cut into bits (225 g)

To assemble the cake:

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

1 cup lukewarm water (250 ml)

2 egg whites at room temperature

¼ cup sugar (55 g)

4 layers Chocolate Sponge Cake

2 tablespoons any kind of jelly

Make the filling: Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the chocolate pieces, reduce the heat to low, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth and creamy. Remove it from the heat and let it cool.

Beat the egg whites in a small bowl until they are frothy. Gradually beat in the sugar and continue to beat to make a stiff meringue. When the chocolate mixture is cool, fold the meringue into it and refrigerate. Chill the filling for at least 4 hours. You can make it up to 24 hours in advance.

Assemble the cake: Stir the cocoa into the lukewarm water. Invert the top layer of the cake on a serving dish and brush it lightly with the cocoa water. Spread one quarter of the filling over the cake and top it with another layer. Using a board or the bottom of a cake pan, gently press down on the cake. Brush the cake with cocoa water and spread on another quarter of the filling. Add another layer of cake and repeat the procedure. Put on the final layer of cake, press it down, and spread the jelly evenly over it.

The remaining filling will be used to glaze the cake. Hold it over a heated burner or immerse the bowl in hot water and whisk constantly until the filling becomes just liquid enough to pour over the cake. If it liquefies too much, chill it until it thickens a bit. Pour it over the cake and spread it evenly over the top and sides. Refrigerate the cake until 1 hour before serving.

TORTA AL CAFFÉ

Mocha Cream Cake

3 layers Coffee Sponge Cake

For the coffee filling:

4 egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup flour (35 g)

To assemble the cake:

½ cup very strong brewed coffee or 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder dissolved in ½ cup hot water and cooled (125 ml)

1½ cups heavy cream (375 ml)

1 to 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder for garnish

Make the coffee filling: Using an electric beater, beat the egg yolks for a minute. Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Add the flour 1 tablespoon at a time and beat it in thoroughly. Beat in the coffee. Put the mixture in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and cook it, stirring constantly, until it is just about to boil. Let the custard cool, whisking it from time to time to keep a crust from forming, and refrigerate it, covered, for at least 2 hours. You can make this filling up to 24 hours in advance.

When you are ready to assemble the cake, whip the cream until very stiff and combine it gently but thoroughly with the coffee filling.

Assemble the cake: Put the bottom layer of cake on a serving plate and spread one third of the filling over it. Top it with another layer of cake and another third of the filling. Add the third layer of cake. Spread a thin layer of filling over the sides of the cake, then spread the rest evenly over the top. Sprinkle the top of the cake evenly with powdered coffee and refrigerate until serving time.

TORTA DI ZABAGLIONE

Zabaglione Cake

I always call this a Venetian cake because of its fantastic appearance and also because zabaglione is the main ingredient of another well-known Venetian specialty, tiramisu, which means “pick-me-up.” Our zabaglione cake has a similar taste to tiramisu, but it is much lighter.

For the zabaglione filling:

3 egg yolks

½ cup sugar (110 g)

3 tablespoons flour

To assemble the cake:

3 layers Sponge Cake

10 meringues for garnish

½ cup dry white wine (125 ml)

½ cup dry sherry (125 ml)

1½ cups heavy cream (375 ml)

1 cup confectioners’ sugar (90 g)

Make the zabaglione filling: Using an electric beater, beat the egg yolks for a minute. Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. Add the flour 1 tablespoon at a time and beat it in thoroughly. Beat in the white wine and sherry. Put the mixture in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and cook it, stirring constantly, until it is just about to boil. Let the custard cool, whisking it from time to time to keep a crust from forming, and refrigerate it, covered, for at least 2 hours. You can make this filling up to 24 hours in advance.

When you are ready to assemble the cake, whip the cream until very stiff and combine it gently but thoroughly with the zabaglione.

Assemble the cake: Put the bottom layer of cake on a platter and spread half the filling over it. Top it with another layer of cake and, using a board or the bottom of a cake pan, press gently on the cake. A little filling will ooze out, which you will use to frost the sides of the cake. Put all but ½ cup (125 ml) or so of the remaining filling on the cake, top it with another layer, and again press down gently on it. Using a spatula, spread the filling evenly over the sides of the cake, using the extra you have saved to make a fairly thick coat.

Stick the meringues evenly around the sides of the cake for decoration. Sift confectioners’ sugar over the top of the cake in a thick layer that covers it completely. Refrigerate the cake until serving time.

TORTA MERINGATA CLASSICA

Classic Meringue Cake

It was my father who began the tradition of meringue cakes at Harry’s Bar. At any restaurant there are always an incredible number of egg whites left over from the sauces. My father, who at the age of 15 had worked in a bakery, knew not only that egg whites make beautiful cakes but that, as he would always remind me, egg whites are free.

1 cup Pastry Cream (250 ml)

For the meringue:

4 egg whites at room temperature

juice of ½ lemon

To assemble the cake:

1½ cups heavy cream (375 ml)

4 layers Sponge Cake

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup sugar (225 g)

sugar for garnish

Let the pastry cream cool and refrigerate it, covered, for at least 2 hours. You can make pastry cream up to 24 hours in advance.

When you are ready to assemble the cake, make the meringue topping. Be sure the egg whites are at room temperature. Put them in a medium-size bowl and beat until they are frothy. Beat in the lemon juice and vanilla and then gradually add the sugar. Beat the meringue until it is very thick and glossy.

Whip the cream until very stiff and combine it gently but thoroughly with the pastry cream.

Preheat the oven to 500° (260/9).

Assemble the cake: Put the bottom layer of cake on a baking sheet and spread one third of the filling over it, leaving a ½-inch (1½-cm) margin of cake. Top it with another layer of cake and another third of the filling. Repeat, then add the top layer of cake.

Spread the meringue thickly over the cake with a knife or spatula. Gently press the spatula down on the meringue and lift it straight up to form decorative peaks. Sprinkle the meringue with a little sugar and put the cake in the oven to brown the meringue a little. This will take only 2 or 3 minutes. Watch it carefully and remove the cake from the oven as soon as it looks good. Carefully slide the cake onto a serving dish and chill until serving time.

Variation:

TORTA MERINGATA AL LIMONE

Lemon Meringue Cake

Substitute 1 cup (250 ml) lemon filling for the pastry cream.

Variation:

TORTA MERINGATA AL CAFFÉ

Coffee Meringue Cake

Substitute 1 cup (250 ml) coffee filling for the pastry cream.

TORTA DI MELE

Apple Cake

SERVES 8

This is a compote cake. When we make it at Harry’s Bar, we use a base of tart pastry, two thin layers of sponge cake separated by an apple compote, and a cover of puff pastry. Tart pastry makes an excellent cover, so use puff pastry only if you’re determined to reproduce the original exactly.

double recipe Tart Pastry, unbaked

For the apple compote:

2 pounds apples, preferably Golden Delicious, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced (900 g)

½ cup water (125 ml)

To assemble the cake:

2 layers Sponge Cake

1 egg

⅔ cup sugar (150 g)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon unsalted butter (15 g)

sugar for garnish

Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan with about two thirds of the dough. Roll a 9-inch (23 cm) circle from the remaining dough. Refrigerate the dough while you make the apple compote.

Make the compote: Put all the ingredients in a large skillet and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn the heat down to medium, cover the pan, and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes or until the apples are tender but not falling apart. Uncover the pan and continue to boil the compote over medium heat, stirring, until the liquid has evaporated, another 5 minutes or so.

Preheat the oven to 350° (180/4).

Assemble the cake: Put a layer of sponge cake on top of the pastry in the springform pan. This will absorb the juices from the compote. Add the compote and spread it evenly over the cake. Top the compote with another layer of sponge cake. Put the circle of pie crust on top of the sponge cake. Roll the edges of the 2 layers of dough together and crimp them to seal the cake. Prick the top in several places with a fork.

Beat the egg in a small cup and brush it over the crust. Sprinkle the crust with sugar and bake the cake for 40 minutes. Remove the cake to a rack and let it cool. Remove the sides of the springform pan and put the cake on a serving plate. Serve plain or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Following the directions for apple compote to make a pear or peach compote, and proceed with the recipe.

TORTA DI PERE O PESCHE

Pear or Peach Cake

CROSTATA DI FRAGOLE

Strawberry Tart

SERVES 8

This simplified version of the Harry’s Bar Strawberry Tart is elegant and easy to make. To reproduce the original exactly, whip 3 cups (750 ml) rather than 4 cups (1 liter) of cream and combine it with a cup of Crema Pasticcera. Use half of this to fill the shell and top it with a layer of Pan di Spagna. Mound on the remaining filling and arrange the strawberries on top.

1 recipe Tart Pastry, baked in a 9-inch (23 cm) tart or pie pan

1 quart heavy cream (1 liter)

2 to 3 tablespoons sugar or to taste

1 quart strawberries, hulled and cut in half lengthwise (450 g)

confectioners’ sugar for garnish

Bake a tart crust as directed in the recipe for Tart Pastry and let it cool.

Whip the cream with sugar to taste and mound it in the shell. Carefully cover the mound of whipped cream with the strawberries, placing them cut side down in a decorative pattern. Sift confectioners’ sugar over all.

Refrigerate the tart and serve it within 2 hours of making it.

Variation:

CROSTATA DI LAMPONE O PESCHE

Raspberry or Peach Tart

Substitute a quart of raspberries or 4 cups (1 liter) sliced peaches for the strawberries.

MERINGATA AL LIMONE

Lemon Meringue Pie

SERVES 8

For the lemon filling:

2 eggs

⅔ cup sugar (150 g)

juice and grated zest of 2 lemons

For the meringue:

3 egg whites at room temperature

juice of ½ lemon

1 recipe Tart Pastry, baked in a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate

5 tablespoons unsalted butter (75 g)

1 cup Pastry Cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¾ cup sugar (165 g)

sugar for garnish

Make the lemon filling: Whisk the eggs well in the top of a double boiler, off the heat. Whisk in the sugar, lemon juice, and zest. Put the pot over simmering water and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick—about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter a little at a time. Let the filling cool, stirring it from time to time to keep a crust from forming. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. You can make this filling up to 24 hours in advance.

Chill the pastry cream for at least 2 hours.

When you are ready to assemble the pie, make the meringue topping. Be sure the egg whites are at room temperature. Put them in a medium-size bowl and beat until they are frothy. Beat in the lemon juice and vanilla and then gradually add the sugar. Beat the meringue until it is very thick and glossy.

Preheat the broiler.

Mix the cold lemon filling with the cold pastry cream, pour the mixture into the pastry crust, and spread evenly. Mound the meringue evenly over the filling and edges of the crust and swirl it into a decorative pattern. Sprinkle the meringue with a little sugar and put it under the broiler, about 2 inches (5 cm) from the heat source, for 30 seconds or so or until the top has turned golden. Be very careful not to let it burn. Refrigerate the pie until 30 minutes before serving time.

PAN DI SPAGNA

Sponge Cake

MAKES 1 9-INCH (23 CM) CAKE

This classic plain sponge cake is the basis of most of our cakes—we even use it in our fruit tarts and pies. Our professional bakers can easily get four thin layers from one recipe of pan di spagna, but you may not be as skilled as they are. If you want to be sure to have enough layers for the coffee and lemon meringue cakes, use 6 eggs, a rounded cup of sugar, and 1½ cups (200 g) of flour to make your pan di spagna and bake it for an extra 10 minutes.

4 eggs at room temperature

⅔ cup sugar (150 g)

Preheat the oven to 350° (180/4). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23 cm) cake pan or springform pan.

1 cup flour (140 g)

Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with the sugar until the mixture is very thick and pale yellow. Beat in the vanilla.

Beat the whites until they are stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, fold one third of the whites gently but thoroughly into the yolk mixture. Then fold in the remaining whites.

Sift the flour onto the egg mixture one third at a time and rapidly but gently fold it in. Do not beat the batter; cut straight to the bottom of the bowl with the spatula and lift the batter up and over the flour. When the flour is incorporated, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the cake is golden and tests done—a toothpick inserted in the center comes out dry—about 25 minutes.

Let the cake cool briefly on a rack. Then remove it from the pan and let it cool completely. Using a serrated knife with a long blade, slice it horizontally into the number of layers you need for the recipe. Immediately wrap the layers in plastic wrap until you are ready to use them. If you don’t plan to use the cake the same day, you can freeze it, well wrapped, indefinitely.

PAN DI SPAGNA AL CIOCCOLATO

Chocolate Sponge Cake

MAKES 1 9-INCH (23 CM) CAKE

6 large eggs

¾ cup sugar (165 g)

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour (155 g)

6 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (about 20 g)

1 tablespoon instant espresso powder (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350° (180/4). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23 cm) cake pan or springform pan.

Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks with the sugar until the mixture is very thick and pale yellow. Beat in the vanilla.

Beat the whites until they are stiff but not dry. Using a rubber spatula, fold one third of the whites gently but thoroughly into the yolk mixture. Then fold in the remaining whites.

Combine the flour, the cocoa, and the espresso powder if you are using it. Sift the flour mixture onto the egg mixture one third at a time and rapidly but gently incorporate it. Do not beat the batter; cut straight to the bottom of the bowl with the spatula and lift the batter up and over the flour. When the flour is incorporated, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the cake tests done—a toothpick inserted in the center comes out dry—about 30 to 35 minutes.

Let the cake cool briefly on a rack. Then remove it from the pan and let it cool completely. Using a serrated knife with a long blade, slice it horizontally into the number of layers needed for the recipe. Immediately wrap the layers in plastic wrap until you are ready to use them. If you don’t plan to use the cake the same day, you can freeze it, well wrapped, indefinitely.

Substitute 7 tablespoons (110 ml) instant espresso powder for the cocoa powder.

PAN DI SPAGNA AL CAFFÉ

Coffee Sponge Cake

PASTA FROLLA

Tart Pastry

MAKES 1 9-INCH (23 CM) TART OR PIE SHELL

1 cup flour (140 g)

½ cup sugar (110 g)

pinch of salt

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ cup (¼ pound) unsalted butter, cut into bits (110 g)

1 egg yolk

Put the flour, sugar, salt, and lemon zest in a bowl and work it with the butter, using a food processor fitted with the steel blade, your fingers, 2 knives, or a pastry blender, until it has the consistency of meal. Stir in the egg yolk with a fork and work the dough into a ball. Pat the dough evenly into a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate or tart pan or roll it out with a rolling pin. If you are using a pie plate, pinch the top of the crust into a raised rim. Prick the bottom of the crust in several rows with a fork, cover the crust well, and put it in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 2 hours.

To prebake the crust: Preheat the oven to 375° (190/5). Line the crust with foil, draping it over the top edge to keep it from browning too fast, and weight it with rice or beans. Bake the crust for 15 minutes, then remove the foil and continue baking for another 10 minutes or until the crust is evenly golden brown. Let the crust cool completely before filling it.

GALANI

Light, crisp fried pastries sprinkled with sugar—popular all over Italy and known by several different names—are called galani in Venice. We serve them once a year—for Carnevale.

3½ cups flour (464 g)

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup unsalted butter, cut into bits (60 g)

1 egg

½ cup dry white wine (125 ml)

olive oil for frying

1 cup vanilla sugar (sugar in which a vanilla bean has been buried for a day or more) (225 g)

Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the butter and process until combined, about 30 seconds. With the motor still running, add the egg and, when it is blended in, slowly pour in the wine. Process for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Pinch some of the dough between your fingers. If it sticks together, it is the right consistency. If it’s too dry to stick together, turn on the motor again and add a few more drops of wine. The dough should be as dry as possible, so add liquid only a few drops at a time.

Turn the mixture into a bowl, press down on it as if you were making pasta dough, and form it into a ball. Divide the ball into 6 pieces and squeeze and knead each piece in your hand for a minute or so. Put the dough in a plastic bag to keep it moist. Following the directions in the recipe for Ravioli, put the dough through the rollers of a pasta machine, exactly as if you were making pasta.

When the dough is all rolled out, cut it into rectangles approximately 2 by 3 inches (5 by 8 cm), using a pastry wheel or a ravioli cutter. Make a 1½-inch (4 cm) diagonal cut across the center of each dough rectangle.

Heat 3 inches (8 cm) of olive oil in a deep fryer or other pot. When a little piece of dough sizzles and immediately rises to the surface, the oil is hot enough.

Spread several baking sheets with brown paper bags or 2 or 3 layers of paper towels and place them next to the stove.

Fry the galani 4 or 5 at a time, turning them once, until they are golden all over, about 3 or 4 minutes. Put the finished pastries on the paper bags or paper towels.

When all the galani have been fried, sprinkle them liberally with vanilla sugar.

Galani are best eaten soon after frying, but you can keep them for a day or so in a brown paper bag.

BISCOTTINI

Almond Cookies

MAKES 6 TO 7 DOZEN

¾ cup (6 ounces) unsalted butter at room temperature (170 g)

¾ cup confectioners’ sugar (70 g)

1 egg

¾ cup ground blanched almonds (120 g)

1¼ cups flour (175 g)

¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest

Preheat the oven to 375° (190/5).

Cream the butter and sugar with a wooden spoon or an electric beater. Add the egg and combine well. Using a wooden spoon, work the almonds, flour, and lemon zest into the dough. Using a pastry tube, a spoon, or your fingers, put dough on ungreased cookie sheets to form 1-inch (2½ cm) cookies.

Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the cookies begin to brown around the edges. Let the cookies cool on racks and store them in airtight containers.

CHOCOLATE ALMOND COOKIES

Substitute ¼ cup (60 ml) unsweetened cocoa powder for ¼ cup (35 g) of the flour and use a teaspoon of vanilla instead of the lemon zest.

ZABAGLIONE

Zabaglione makes a very good sauce for fresh fruit.

12 large egg yolks

¼ cup sugar (55 g)

¾ cup dry white wine (185 ml)

¾ cup dry Marsala (185 ml)

In the top of a double boiler, off the heat, whisk the egg yolks together with the sugar until they are very foamy. Stir in the wine and Marsala. Put the pot over simmering water and stir continuously just until the zabaglione thickens. Do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle.

Pour into small bowls or wineglasses and serve immediately with cookies.

PERE COTTE

Poached Pears

2½- by 1-inch (1½ by 2½ cm) strips lemon rind

1 quart water (1 liter)

1 cup sugar (225 g)

1 cinnamon stick (optional)

6 firm Bartlett or Anjou pears with stems

Combine the water, sugar, lemon rind, and cinnamon in a pot just large enough to hold the pears. Bring the mixture to a boil, turn down the heat to low, and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes.

While the syrup is cooking, carefully peel the pears, leaving the stems in place. Stand the peeled pears in the syrup, bring it back to a boil, turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pot, and simmer the pears until they are just tender, 20 to 40 minutes, depending on how ripe the pears are. Turn off the heat, uncover the pot, and let the pears cool in the syrup. When the pears are cool, remove the cinnamon stick and peel. Refrigerate the pears in the syrup and serve chilled.

MOUSSE GELATA DI CIOCCOLATO

Chocolate Mousse

This mousse is very light—and very rich. One-half cup makes a generous serving.

For the meringue:

1 egg white at room temperature

For the mousse:

2 ounces best-quality unsweetened chocolate, cut into bits (60 g)

3 egg yolks

¼ cup sugar (55 g)

1 cup heavy cream (250 ml)

Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)

Make the meringue: Be sure the egg whites are at room temperature. Put them in a medium-size bowl and beat until they are almost stiff. Gradually beat in the sugar. Beat the meringue until it is very thick and glossy.

Put the chocolate in the top of a double boiler with ¼ cup (60 ml) water. Heat over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove it from the heat.

Using an electric beater, beat the yolks with the sugar until they are thick and pale. Whisk the chocolate into the mixture until thoroughly combined.

Fold the meringue gently but thoroughly into the chocolate mixture. Beat the cream until stiff and gently fold it into the mixture. Put the mousse in small serving dishes and chill it. Serve with chocolate sauce (below).

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

⅔ cup water (160 ml)

¾ cup sugar (165 g)

¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder (about 15 g)

1 ounce best-quality unsweetened chocolate, cut into bits (30 g)

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Whisk in the cocoa and return to the boil. Off the heat, whisk in the chocolate until it is melted.

CRESPELLE ALLA CREMA PASTICCERA

Crêpes à la Crème Flambée

This is a delicate dessert that will complement a rich formal dinner. Crêpes are delicious and light only if they are made properly. It takes a lot of experience and attention to make a good crêpes. This recipe is good for dessert crêpes, but also for any other use because it has no sugar.

For the crêpes:

3 eggs

½ cup milk (125 ml) mixed with ½ cup water (125 ml)

To assemble the dish:

¾ cup flour (105 g)

1 tablespoon olive oil

unsalted butter for frying

1 recipe Pastry Cream

a little sugar

¾ cup Cointreau (185 ml)

Make the crêpes: Combine the eggs with the milk and water, then gradually beat in the flour, using a beater or blender. Beat until the batter is smooth and stir in the olive oil. Pour the batter into a pitcher.

Spread a clean kitchen towel on a surface near the stove.

Heat a little butter in a 6-inch (15 cm) frying pan over medium heat. When the pan is hot, pour in just enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan without leaving any holes. If there is too much batter in the pan, pour the excess back into the pitcher. When the bottom of the crêpes is golden, carefully turn it over, using a long, thin spatula, and let brown a little on the other side. Turn the crêpes out onto the towel. Continue to make crêpes until all the batter is used, adding a little butter to the pan from time to time only if the crêpes are sticking. You can make crêpes days in advance, and they freeze well. Stack the crêpes and wrap them well in plastic wrap and foil before refrigerating or freezing.

Fill the crêpes: The side of the crêpes cooked first will be a nice even golden color. So the attractive side will be the one people see, always put the filling on the other side. Spread a rounded tablespoon of pastry cream over half of each crêpes. Fold the other half over the filling, then fold in half again to form a triangle. Arrange the folded crêpes in a baking dish and refrigerate until serving time.

Preheat the oven to 450° (230/8).

Just before serving, sprinkle the crêpes with a little sugar and bake them just long enough to heat them through and melt the sugar, 5 to 10 minutes. Take the baking dish to the table, pour in the Cointreau, and carefully ignite it. Tilt and swirl the dish until the flames die out. Serve the crêpes with the sauce and, if you want to do just what we do at Harry’s Bar, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

CREMA PASTICCERA

Pastry Cream

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1½ cups milk (375 ml)

7 tablespoons sugar (100 g)

a 2- by ½-inch (5 by 1½ cm) piece of lemon zest

3 large egg yolks

¼ cup flour (35 g)

Put the milk, 3 tablespoons (40 g) of the sugar, and the lemon zest in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove it from the heat and discard the lemon zest.

In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the remaining sugar. Whisk in the flour a tablespoon at a time and whisk until the mixture is smooth. Whisk the hot milk little by little into the yolk mixture and pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Cook the custard over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Continue to cook over low heat for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the vanilla.

Take the pot off the heat and let the custard cool, stirring it frequently to keep a crust from forming. Chill the custard until you are ready to use it. You can make pastry cream up to 24 hours in advance.

MERINGHE SBRICIOLATE

Meringues

MAKES 12 2-INCH (5 CM) MERINGUES

Meringue, combining beaten egg whites and sugar, is used as an ingredient in many Italian desserts, such as our chocolate mousse, chocolate cake, and meringue cakes. When baked, meringue becomes a crisp but tender, light and fragile confection. We serve tiny baked meringues on our plates of cookies and use larger ones to decorate the zabaglione cake. Baked meringues are delicious filled with fruit and whipped cream or ice cream. Crumbled meringues make a simple, crunchy decoration for a cake covered with whipped cream.

Meringues must be baked at a very low temperature—in fact, they are really dried rather than baked. The longer they’re baked or allowed to dry, the drier and crisper the center will be. If the meringues are baked for a shorter time, they will be crisp on the surface but soft and chewy inside.

2 egg whites at room temperature

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

½ cup sugar (110 g)

Preheat the oven to 225° (110/¼). Butter a baking sheet.

Beat the egg whites until they are stiff but not dry. Beat in the vanilla and lemon juice. Very gradually beat in the sugar; the meringue will be glossy and very stiff. Shape the meringues on the baking sheet, using a pastry bag or a couple of spoons. Make individual meringues about 2 inches (5 cm) across (to decorate the zabaglione cake), or tiny meringues to serve as cookies.

Bake the meringues for an hour. If they show any signs of browning, turn the oven down to 200° (95/¼). Then turn off the oven and let the meringues stay there for at least 2 hours, preferably 4 to 6 hours or overnight.

Remove the meringues from the pan carefully and store them in a dry place. If you manage to bake the meringues very dry, they’ll keep for about a week; if they’re a little moist, they’re best eaten the same day.

2 cups heavy cream (500 ml)

1½ cups sugar (330 g)

1 vanilla bean

8 large egg yolks

Combine the milk and cream in the top of a double boiler and stir in half the sugar and the vanilla bean. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Watch the pot and turn it off just as the milk comes to the boil. Remove it from the heat and remove the vanilla bean.

Beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar in a large bowl. Gradually stir in the hot milk mixture. Return the mixture to the pan and cook over simmering water, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Do not allow the mixture to boil or the eggs will curdle. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl. Let it cool, stirring occasionally, then chill it until it is cold.

Pour the mixture into an ice-cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions.