The Winelands

An hour from Cape Town, the Winelands is all about indulgence – eating, drinking and relaxing. Each of the Western Cape’s earliest European settlements, at Stellenbosch, Paarl, Franschhoek and Somerset West, has its own established wine route, packed with picture-perfect Dutch colonial heritage in the form of shimmering white, gabled homesteads, surrounded by vineyards and tall, slatey crags. To top it all off, the area has a disproportionate concentration of South Africa’s stellar restaurants. Franschhoek, the smallest of the towns, is a centre of culinary excellence draped in heavily cultivated Provençal character. In a region of striking settings, it has the best – located at the head of a narrow valley. This is where you should go if you’re principally after a great lunch and a beautiful drive out of Cape Town.

Stellenbosch, by contrast, has some attractive historical streetscapes, a couple of decent museums, cafés and shops and, as far as great restaurants go, it gives Franschhoek stiff competition. One of the region’s scenic highlights is the drive along the R310 across the heady Helshoogte Pass between Stellenbosch and the R45 Franschhoek–Paarl road. Paarl, also a pretty drive from Stellenbosch, is a workaday farming town set in a fertile valley overlooked by granite rock formations. Beyond, head to the sprawling town of Somerset West for its one simply outstanding drawing card: Vergelegen, one of the most stunning of all the Wineland estates.

Getting around: The Winelands

By car All the wineries are an easy drive from Cape Town; if you’re not staying overnight, you can easily visit four to six in a day.

By train Use the train line from Cape Town via Stellenbosch and Paarl with caution, as trains pass through rough areas of the Cape Flats, and it is slow and unreliable.

On a tour Organized tours are operated from Stellenbosch and Cape Town, with many backpacker hostels and guesthouses running excursions. Stellenbosch’s tourism office is also a good source of information.

information

When to go Summer is the best time to visit, when opening hours are longer, the vines are in leaf and there’s activity at the wineries. In winter the wine has been made and there are fewer cellar tours, though the landscape is still gorgeous, and many upmarket guesthouses charge half-price.

Wine tasting Wine tasting and buying are supposed to be fun, so don’t take them too seriously. If you aren’t a wine buff, you’ll often find staff at tasting rooms are happy to talk you through a wine. Most estates charge a fee for a wine-tasting session (anywhere up to R40) and some only have tastings at specific times. Note also that some wineries are closed on Sundays.

TASTING THE FORBIDDEN FRUIT: SOUTH AFRICA’s WINES

Despite South Africa having the longest-established New World winemaking tradition (going back more than 350 years), its rapid growth in wine production is remarkable for having taken place in the decades since apartheid. Before that, South Africa’s isolation had led to a stagnant and inbred industry that produced heavy Bordeaux-style wines. After the arrival of democracy in 1994, winemakers began producing fresher, fruitier wines. Many South African winemakers are finding their feet in wines that combine the best of Old and New World styles, and new wineries are opening up all the time, with more and more farms planting vines.

South Africa produces wines from a whole gamut of major cultivars. Of the whites, the top South African Sauvignon Blancs can stand up with the best the New World has to offer; among the reds, it’s the blends, created from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz that really shine. Also look out for red wine made from Pinotage grapes – a somewhat controversial curiosity unique to South Africa – which its detractors feel should stay on the vine. Port is also made, and the best vintages come from the Little Karoo town of Calitzdorp along the R62. There are also a handful of excellent sparkling wines, including Champagne-style, fermented-in-the-bottle bubbly, known locally as méthode cap classique (MCC).

The most enjoyable way to sample wines is by visiting wineries. The oldest and most rewarding wine-producing regions to tour are the Constantia estates in Cape Town and the Winelands; other wine-producing areas covered by this guide include Walker Bay around Hermanus and the Little Karoo along the R62. If you’re serious about your wine tasting, think about buying the authoritative and annually updated John Platter’s South African Wine Guide (also available as an iPhone app), which rates wines from virtually every producer in the country. Wine magazine (winemag.co.za), published every month, has useful features on wineries, places to eat, wine reviews, information on latest bottlings, and a diary of events and wine festivals.

Stellenbosch

Dappled avenues of three-century-old oaks are the defining feature of STELLENBOSCH, 46km east of Cape Town – a fact reflected in its Afrikaans nickname Die Eikestad (the oak city). Stellenbosch’s attractions lie principally in its setting and architecture, rooted in the seventeenth century, which make it a lovely place to simply wander around and one that’s safe at night. Besides its historical and architectural sights, you’ll find cafés and some good-quality galleries and arts and crafts shops down Church and Dorp streets.

Stellenbosch today is the heart of the Winelands, having more urban attractions than either Paarl or Franschhoek, while at the same time being at the hub of the largest and oldest of the Cape wine routes. The city is also home to Stellenbosch University, Afrikanerdom’s most prestigious educational institution, which does something to enliven the atmosphere. But even the thousands of students and the heady promise of plentiful alcohol haven’t changed the fact that at heart this is a conservative place, which was once the intellectual engine room of apartheid, and fostered the likes of Dr Hendrik Verwoerd, the prime minister who came up with the system.

The tourist office is a good place to start your explorations. Heading east up this road, you’ll soon reach a whitewashed block that was the VOC Kruithuis, the Dutch East India Company’s powder magazine. From here, a right turn south down the side of the Braak, the large green occupying the centre of town, will take you past the Rhenish Church in Bloem Street, built in 1823 as a school for slaves and coloured people.

Village Museum

18 Ryneveld St • Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm • R25

Stellenbosch’s highlight, the extremely enjoyable Village Museum, cuts a cross section through the town’s architectural and social heritage by means of four fortuitously adjacent historical dwellings from different periods. They’re beautifully conserved and furnished in period style, and you’ll meet the odd worker dressed in period costume.

Earliest of the houses is the homely Shreuderhuis, a vernacular cottage built in 1709. With its small courtyard garden filled with aromatic herbs, pomegranate bushes and vine-draped pergolas, it bears more resemblance to the early Cape settlement’s European aesthetics than to modern South Africa.

Across the garden is Blettermanhuis, which was built in 1789 for the last Dutch East India Company-appointed magistrate of Stellenbosch. It is an archetypal eighteenth-century Cape Dutch house, built on an H-plan with six gables. Grosvenor House, opposite, was altered to its current form in 1803, reflecting the growing influence of English taste after the 1795 British occupation of the Cape. The Neoclassical facade, with fluted pilasters supporting a pedimented entrance, borrows from the high fashion that was the style then at the heart of the growing empire. The more modest O.M. Bergh House, across the road, is a typical Victorian dwelling that was once similar to Blettermanhuis, but was “modernized” in the mid-nineteenth century on a rectangular plan, with a simplified facade without gables.

Dorp Street

Stellenbosch’s best-preserved historic axis, Dorp Street lies south of the museum and is well worth a slow stroll just to soak up the ambience of buildings, gables, oaks and roadside irrigation furrows. Look out for Krige’s Cottages, nos. 37–51 between Aan-de-Wagenweg and Krige streets, an unusual terrace of historic townhouses. The houses were built as Cape Dutch cottages in the first half of the nineteenth century; Victorian features were added later, resulting in an interesting hybrid, with gables housing Victorian attic windows and decorative Victorian verandas with filigree ironwork fronting the elegantly simple Cape Dutch facades.

Arrival AND information: Stellenbosch

By train Metrorail trains (0800 65 64 63, metrorail.co.za) travel between Cape Town and Stellenbosch roughly every 90min during the day and take about 1hr, but use this line with caution.

By bus The Baz Bus runs daily from Cape Town to Somerset West, where it drops passengers off at the BP filling station next to the Lord Charles Hotel. Some hostels operate shuttle services from there, but you need to arrange this in advance.

Tourist information The busy tourist office about 1km from the station at 36 Market St (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–2pm; 021 883 3584, stellenbosch.travel), provides information on local attractions and a comprehensive accommodation booking service.

tours

Walking tours

Walking tours leave the tourist office in the morning and afternoon, and are a great way to see Stellenbosch’s architectural highlights and get a feel of the town (by appointment with Sandra 021 887 9150; R100 per person; minimum of six in a group).

Wine tours

If you want to get out of town and visit the vineyards, the tourism office represents a number of wine tour operators and can steer you towards the right one, depending on your time and budget. Expect to pay a minimum of R350 for a half-day tour and R550 for a full-day, inclusive of tasting fees. Recommended companies include:

Bikes n Wines 074 186 0418, bikesnwines.com. If you are feeling energetic, you can tour the vineyards by bicycle with Bikes n Wines, who do a half-day tour to Stellenbosch (R600) and to Franschhoek (R800).

Easy Rider Wine Tours 021 886 4651, winetour.co.za. Based at Stumble Inn backpacker lodge (see below), Easy Rider Wine Tours offers packages to four wineries, with lunch at Franschhoek thrown in (R600).

The Vine Hopper 084 492 4992, vinehopper.co.za. A convenient hop-on, hop-off bus, which goes to a dozen wineries, including Van Ryn’s Brandy Cellar. Call in advance for their days and routes, which will vary depending on the season and demand (day-ticket R300).

Accommodation

Accommodation can be difficult to find in Stellenbosch in the summer months, when you can expect to find many places full, so book well in advance at this time of year. The tourist office can be helpful in finding you a place.

10 Alexander 10 Alexander St 021 887 4414, 10alexander.co.za. This guesthouse is functional, quiet and pleasant, and very well run by the chatty owner. Rooms are small and spotless, plus there’s a nice garden and pool. There are also facilities for self-catering for those trying to keep down costs. There is a two-night minimum stay. R1850

Banghoek Place 193 Banghoek Rd 021 887 0048, banghoek.co.za. Slightly more upmarket sister hostel to Stumble Inn (see below), with mostly en-suite double, twin and triple rooms that offer terrific value, and three small dorms. There are discount packages available, which include two nights’ accommodation plus a wine tour. Dorms R180, doubles R600

De Oude Meul 10A Mill St (off Dorp St) 021 887 7085, deoudemeul.com. Located in the middle of town on a fairly busy street, above an antique shop, these pleasant rooms are good value. Ask for one at the back to ensure a quiet night’s sleep. R1400

Glenconner Jonkershoek Rd, 4km from the centre 021 886 5120 or 082 354 3510, bit.ly/Glenconner. Both self-catering and B&B options are available at these farm cottages. The tranquil valley setting is spectacular – there are grazing horses in the fields below the cottages – and it’s close to the walks in the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve. Breakfast can be taken under an old oak tree, and you may be tempted to buy photos from the photographer owner. R1200

Knorhoek Country Guest House Knorhoek Wine Estate, off the R44, 7km north of town 021 865 2114, knorhoek.co.za. With a bucolic setting in a snug valley, these old farm buildings have been turned into modern guest rooms and cottages. Each has a sunny patio, lawn and a feeling of calm luxury, plus guests can wander the gardens and vineyard. R1200

Natte Valleij On the R44, 12km north of town 021 875 5171, nattevalleij.co.za. Guests have a choice of a large cottage sleeping six, a smaller one-bedroom unit attached to an old wine cellar or an en-suite room with its own entrance. There’s a swimming pool, and breakfast is served on the veranda. R900

Ryneveld Country Lodge 67 Ryneveld St 021 887 4469, ryneveldlodge.co.za. Elegant late-nineteenth-century building, now a National Monument and furnished with Victorian antiques. The rooms are spotless, with the two best rooms upstairs leading onto a wooden deck. There are also two family cottages, which sleep up to four, and a pool. R1700

Stumble Inn 12 Market St 021 887 4049, stumbleinnbackpackers.co.za. The town’s best and longest-standing hostel, spread across two houses that date from the turn of the last century and are run by friendly, switched-on staff. Just down the road from the tourist office, the hostel is also noted for its good-value tours. Dorms R150, doubles R410

Eating

A meal at a vineyard is one of the top eating experiences in South Africa. You’ll need to reserve a table weeks or months in advance, particularly in the summer. In Stellenbosch there are several fairly alluring café’s and restaurants along Dorp and Church streets, with a nice crop in the leafy De Wet Square, a courtyard scattered with outdoor tables. On Saturday mornings it’s worth visiting the fabulous and very popular farmers’ market in the Oude Libertas Estate grounds, off the R310 just south of the centre (slowmarket.co.za; 9am–2pm). You’ll find a range of locally produced and organic food to eat and take away, including breads, cheeses, meats, vegetables, fruit, beers and estate wines.

Bird Cage 5 Plein St 021 882 9790. Great daytime spot for coffee and cake, home-made biscuits and cupcakes, or alfresco light lunches of fresh salads and sandwiches. The home-made granola topped with fresh berries (R65) is delicious. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm.

De Warenmarkt Cnr of Ryneveld & Plein sts 021 883 2274, dewarenmarkt.com. A market-style venue, in a handsome listed building, where you can pitch up at any time of day and find something delicious and reasonably priced, from egg breakfasts (R45) and freshly squeezed juices to seafood platters and salads. The coffee is brilliant, there’s a champagne and oyster bar and perhaps most interesting, if you are a carnivore, an excellent butchery where you can choose your hunk of meat and have it prepared on the spot. Mon–Sat 8am–10pm.

Genki Sushi and Japanese Tapas Bar, De Wet Centre, Cnr Bird & Church Sts 021 887 5699. Great setting in a leafy courtyard with characteristic whitewashed walls, come here for fresh Japanese dishes from sushi (R100) and noodles to tempura and skewers of meat. The wine comes from local estates. Mon–Sat 11.30am–3pm & 5.30–10pm.

Schoon de Companje Cnr Bird & Church sts 021 883 2187, decompanje.co.za. A café combined with a deli, with various nooks to settle down in with some good coffee and croissants. The pavement seating is one of the big draws in summer, as are the ice creams and locally brewed Stellenbrau craft beer. For lunch try the quinoa tabbouleh salad (R75), and a variety of sandwiches. Mon 7am–1.30pm, Tues–Sun 7.30am–5pm.

STELLENBOSCH’S BEST WINE ESTATE RESTAURANTS

Jordan Restaurant Jordan Wine Estate, 11.5km west of Stellenbosch, off the R310 021 881 3612, jordanwines.com. One of the country’s top chefs rules the roost here. Expect exquisite food, service and wines, which can be enjoyed on a deck overlooking a lake and distant mountains. The reasonably-priced set menu is based on seasonal ingredients (R350 for two courses, R425 for three) and you can even visit their cheese tasting room in between courses. Next to the restaurant is Bakery at Jordan (thebakery.co.za), which does interesting breakfasts, lighter meals and cheese and charcuterie platters (R200). Jordan Restaurant summer Mon–Wed & Sun noon–2pm, Thurs–Sat noon–2pm & 6.30–8.30pm; winter Tues & Wed noon–2pm, Thurs–Sat noon–2pm & 6.30–9pm; Bakery at Jordan daily 8am–4pm.

Overture Hidden Valley Wine Estate, Annandale Rd 021 880 2646, www.dineatoverture.co.za. Top of the town in more ways than one, Overture looks down magnificently from the hills into the Annandale Valley – and it consistently wins awards as one of the country’s top ten restaurants. Based on classical French cuisine, with fresh ingredients and everything made from scratch, the dishes throw up interesting contemporary twists. Sample the works with the six-course tasting menu (R690). Book way in advance. Mon–Wed & Sun noon–2.30pm, Thurs–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm.

Terroir Kleine Zalze Wine Estate, Strand Rd (R44) 021 880 0717, kleinezalze.co.za. Some 8km from Stellenbosch on a wine and golf estate, Terroir has a surprisingly relaxed dining room (for a nationally fêted restaurant) and tables outside under shady oaks. The fairly expensive French-inspired chalkboard menu is based as far as possible on local seasonal produce, including appealing desserts like marinated mango with coconut, vanilla brioche and banana (R110). Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–2.30pm.

drinking

In Stellenbosch there are some appealing pavement cafés, especially down Church Street, while in the evenings the student presence ensures a relaxed, and occasionally, raucous drinking culture.

Bohemia Bar 1 Victoria St 021 887 8375, facebook.com/bohemiabar. There’s a good chance of catching local live music, usually alternative punk rock, with Thursday as the most reliable night. During the day, there is a pleasant wrap-around veranda with tables looking onto the street. Food like pizzas and toasties is exceptionally cheap, or try an egg and bacon breakfast (R30). Daily 11am–2am.

The Happy Oak Pub & Grill 62 Andringa St 021 882 9672. Central and cheap, a studenty vintage pub and grill where you can get a variety of beers and ciders, a bottle of decent local wine (R80) and meals like steak and egg (R70) or a plate of potato wedges to line the stomach while you sit at the outdoor beer-garden-style trestles and benches. Not much scope for vegetarians. Daily 11am–2am.

Wijnhuis Wine Bar & Grill Cnr Church & Andringa sts 021 887 5844. Dazzling array of local wines sold by the glass, and artisanal beers to sample (R50), in a clean-cut environment with rather stylish wooden tables and fittings. It’s a good place too, for steaks, bruschetta, salads, pasta, fish, and game dishes. Daily 8am–11pm.

The wineries

Stellenbosch was the first locality in the country to wake up to the marketing potential of a wine route. It launched its wine route in 1971, a tactic that has been hugely successful; today tens of thousands of visitors from all over the world are drawn here annually, making this the most toured area in the Winelands. Although the region accounts for only a fraction of South Africa’s land under vine, its wine route is the most extensive in the country, with around three hundred establishments. Apart from the selection here (all of which produce creditable wines and are along a series of roads that radiate out from Stellenbosch) there are scores of other excellent places, which taken together would occupy months of exploration. If you’re planning your own route, all the wineries are clearly signposted off the main arteries, or you can take a tour from Stellenbosch. Several vineyards offer sit-down luxury meals or picnic baskets (reserve in advance), but many only lay on tastings. Opening hours may be shorter in the winter.

Delaire Graff Estate On the Helshoogte Pass, 6km east of Stellenbosch along the R310 to Franschhoek 021 885 8160, delaire.co.za. The highly regarded Delaire Graff restaurant has possibly the best views in the Winelands, looking through pin oaks across the Groot Drakenstein and Simonsig mountains and down into the valley. Outstanding wines aren’t hard to find here as most of their output delivers the goods: the majority are whites, but they also produce a great red blend. A tasting of three wines costs R50. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm; restaurant Mon–Sat noon–2pm & 6.30–9pm, Sun noon–2pm. Winter hours are subject to change.

Jordan Wine Estate 11.5km west of Stellenbosch off the R310 021 881 3441, jordanwines.com. A pioneer among the new-wave Cape wineries, Jordan’s high-tech cellar and modern tasting room is complemented by its friendly service. The drive there is half the fun, taking you into a kloof bounded by vineyards that get a whiff of the sea from both False Bay and Table Bay, which has clearly done something for its output – it has a list of outstanding wines as long as your arm and a highly rated restaurant. Tasting R120 for six premier wines, redeemable against purchases. Daily 9am–4pm.

Morgenhof 4km north of Stellenbosch on the R44 021 889 2007, morgenhof.com. French-owned chateau-style complex on the slopes of the vine-covered Simonsberg, owned by Anne Cointreau-Huchon (granddaughter of the founder of Remy Martin cognac). Morgenhof has a light and airy tasting room with a bar, and delicious light lunches are served outside, which can be followed with ice cream enjoyed on the lawns. They produce the excellent Morgenhof Estate red blend and a couple of brilliant whites (including a Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) under the same label, while the Fantail range is their second, more affordable label. Tasting R35 for five wines. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–4pm; restaurant daily 9am–4pm.

Neethlingshof 6.5km west of Stellenbosch on Polkadraai Rd (the R306) 021 883 8988, neethlingshof.co.za. Centred around a beautifully restored Cape Dutch manor dating back to 1814, reached down a kilometre-long avenue of stone pines, Neethlingshof’s first vines were planted in 1692. Their flagship wines include the Caracal, a Bordeaux-style red blend and the Pinotage Old Post. Tasting R40 for five wines. Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; restaurant Mon, Tues & Sun 9am–5pm, Wed–Sat 9am–9pm.

Overgaauw 6.5km west of Stellenbosch, off the M12 021 881 3815, overgaauw.co.za. Notable for its elegant Victorian tasting room, this pioneering estate was the first winery in the country to produce Merlots, and it’s still the only one to make a wine with Sylvaner, a well-priced, easy-drinking dry white. Tasting R30 for five wines, redeemable against purchase. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, by appointment only.

Rustenberg Wines Off Lelie Rd, Ida’s Valley 021 809 1200, rustenberg.co.za. One of the closest estates to Stellenbosch, Rustenberg is also one of the most alluring, reached after a drive through orchards, sheep pastures and tree-lined avenues. An unassuming working farm, it has a romantic pastoral atmosphere, which contrasts with its architecturally stunning tasting room in the former stables; the first vines were planted here in 1692, but the viniculture looks to the future. Their high-flyers include the Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon, and Five Soldiers Chardonnay. Tasting R25 for six wines, redeemable against purchase. Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat 10am–3.30pm, Sun 10am–3pm.

Simonsig Estate 9.5km north of Stellenbosch, off Kromme Rhee Rd, which runs between the R44 and the R304 021 888 4900, simonsig.co.za. This winery has a relaxed outdoor tasting area under vine-covered pergolas, offering majestic views back to Stellenbosch of hazy stone-blue mountains and vineyards. The first estate in the country to produce a bottle-fermented bubbly some three decades back, it also makes a vast range of first-class still wines. Tasting R75 for five bubblies and R50 for three wines. Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, Sat 8.30am–3.30pm, Sun 11.30am–2.30pm.

Uva Mira About 8km south of Stellenbosch, off Annandale Rd, which spurs off the R44 021 880 1683, uvamira.co.za. Enchanting boutique winery that punches well above its weight, but is worth visiting just for the winding drive halfway up the Helderberg. The highly original tasting room, despite being fairly recently built, gives the appearance of a gently decaying historic structure, and there are unsurpassed views from the deck across mountainside vineyards to False Bay some 50km away. Their 2006 Chardonnay stands out as an international winner and their flagship Bordeaux-style red blend is also noteworthy. Tasting R50 for three wines. Daily 10am–6pm.

Somerset West

The only compelling reasons to trawl out to the unpromising town of SOMERSET WEST, 50km east of Cape Town along the N2, are to visit the wine estates of Vergelegen, and its immediate neighbour Morgenster. Both of these are officially part of the Helderberg wine route, but can easily be included as an extension to a visit to Stellenbosch, just 14km to the north.

Vergelegen

Lourensford Rd • Daily 9.30am–4pm • R20 • Wine tasting R50 for six wines • 021 847 2100, vergelegen.co.za

An architectural treasure as well as an estate producing a stunning range of wines, Vergelegen was the only wine estate visited by Queen Elizabeth II during her 1995 state visit to South Africa – a good choice, as there’s enough here to occupy even a monarch for an easy couple of hours.

The interpretive centre, just across the courtyard from the shop at the building’s entrance, provides a useful history and background to the estate. Next door, the wine-tasting centre offers a professionally run sampling with a brief talk through each label. They produce a vast range of wines, almost every one of which is excellent.

The homestead, which was restored in 1917 to its current state by Lady Florence Phillips, wife of a Johannesburg mining magnate, can also be visited. Its pale facade, reached along an axis through an octagonal garden that is dotted with butterflies in summer, has a classical triangular gable and pilaster-decorated doorways. Extensive grounds planted with chestnuts and camphor trees, which feature ponds around every corner make this one of the most serene places in the Cape.

The history of Vergelegen

Vergelegen represents a notorious episode of corruption and the arbitrary abuse of power at the Cape in the early years of Dutch East India Company rule. Built by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, who became governor in 1699 after the retirement of his father, Simon, the estate formed a grand Renaissance complex in the middle of the wild backwater that was the Cape at the beginning of the eighteenth century. Van der Stel acquired the land illegally and used Dutch East India Company slaves to build Vergelegen, as well as company resources to farm vast tracts of land in the surrounding areas. At the same time he abused his power as governor to corner most of the significant markets at the Cape. When this was brought to the notice of the bosses in the Netherlands, they sacked Van der Stel and ordered the destruction of Vergelegen to discourage future miscreant governors. It’s believed that the destruction was never fully carried out and the current building is thought to stand on the foundations of the original.

Eating: Vergelegen

Vergelegen Lourensford Road 021 847 2131, vergelegen.co.za. Food options at Vergelegen are varied. One of the best ways to enjoy the surrounds is to order a gourmet picnic basket (R250/person; summer only, booking essential), which will be laid-out under the camphor trees, complete with checked tablecloth and wicker basket. The Stables offers breakfast, lunch and coffee in a bistro environment, while Camphors Restaurant is one of the top Winelands eating experiences and in the top ten in South Africa – the seasonal menu might include steak tartare from their own Nguni cattle, local cheeses and vegetables grown on the estate (R395 for three courses). The Stables daily 9.30am–4pm; Camphors Restaurant Wed, Thurs & Sun noon–2.30pm, Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & 6.30–9.30pm. For Camphors Restaurant booking, as far in advance as possible, is essential.

Morgenster

Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 10am–4pm • Olive oil tastings R40; wine & chocolate tastings R65 • morgenster.co.za

As well as its exquisite rustic setting, the tasting room at Morgenster, Vergelegen’s immediate neighbour, has a veranda that looks onto a lovely lake with mountains in the distance. Its two stellar blended reds aside, the estate offers the unusual addition of olive tasting, with several types of olive and oil (including an award-winning cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil) and some delicious olive paste.

The history of Afrikaans

Afrikaans is South Africa’s third mother tongue, spoken by fifteen percent of the population and outstripped only by Zulu and Xhosa. English, by contrast, is the mother tongue of only nine percent of South Africans, and ranks fifth in the league of the eleven official languages.

Signs of the emergence of a new southern-African dialect appeared as early as 1685, when a VOC official from the Netherlands complained about a “distorted and incomprehensible” Dutch being spoken around modern-day Paarl. By absorbing English, French, German, Malay and indigenous words and expressions, the language continued to diverge from mainstream Dutch, and by the nineteenth century was widely used in the Cape by both white and coloured speakers, but was regarded by the elite as an inferior creole, unsuitable for literary or official communication.

Ironically, it was the British defeat of the Afrikaner republics in the second Anglo-Boer War at the start of the twentieth century that provided the catalyst for a mass white Afrikaans movement. The official British policy of anglicizing South Africa helped unite a demoralized white Afrikaner proletariat and elite against the common English enemy.

In 1905, Gustav Preller, a young journalist from a working-class Boer background, set about reinventing Afrikaans as a “white man’s language”. Substituting Dutch words for those with non-European origins, Preller began publishing the first of a series of populist magazines written in Afrikaans and glorifying Boer history and culture. In 1925 Afrikaans became recognized as an official language.

When the National Party took power in 1948, its apartheid policy went hand in hand with promoting the interests of white Afrikaners, which they did through a programme of uplifting poor white people. Despite there being more coloured than white Afrikaans speakers, the language became associated with the apartheid establishment. When the government tried to enforce Afrikaans as the sole medium of instruction in African schools, the policy led directly to the Soweto uprising in 1976, which marked the beginning of the end for Afrikaner hegemony in South Africa. The repression of the 1970s and 1980s and the forced removals of coloured and black people led many coloured Afrikaans-speakers to adopt English in preference to their tainted mother tongue.

There are few signs, though, that Afrikaans will die out. Under the new constitution, language rights are protected, which means that Afrikaans will continue to be almost as widely used as before, except now it is as much with coloured as white people that the future of the taal (language) rests.

Paarl

Although PAARL is attractively ensconced in a fertile valley brimming with historical monuments, at heart it’s a parochial dorp, lacking the sophistication of Stellenbosch or the striking setting and trendiness of Franschhoek. It is, however, a prosperous farming centre that earns its keep from the agricultural light industries – grain silos, canneries and flour mills – on the north side of town, and the cornucopia of grapes, guavas, olives, oranges and maize grown on the surrounding farms. Despite its small-town feel, Paarl has the largest municipality in the Winelands, with its most exclusive areas on the vined slopes of Paarl Mountain overlooking the town.

Brief history

In 1657, just five years after the establishment of the Dutch East India Company refreshment station on the Cape Peninsula, a party under Abraham Gabbema arrived in the Berg River Valley to look for trading opportunities with the Khoikhoi, and search for the legendary gold of Monomotapa. With treasure on the brain, they woke after a rainy night to see the glistening dome of granite dominating the valley, which they named Peerlbergh (pearl mountain), which in its modified form, Paarl, became the name of the town. Thirty years later, the commander of the Cape, Simon van der Stel, granted strips of the Khoikhoi lands on the slopes of Paarl Mountain to French Huguenot and Dutch settlers. By the time Paarl was officially granted town status in 1840, it was still an outpost at the edge of the Drakenstein Mountains, a flourishing wagon-making and last-stop provisioning centre. This status was enhanced when the first rail line in the Cape connected it to the peninsula in 1863. Following in the spirit of the first Dutch adventurers of 1657, thousands of treasure-seekers brought custom to Paarl as the gateway to the interior during the diamond rush of the 1870s and the gold fever of the 1880s.

The town holds deep historical significance for the two competing political forces that forged modern South Africa. Afrikanerdom regards Paarl as the hallowed ground on which their language movement was born in 1875, while for the ANC (and the international community), Paarl will be remembered as the place from which Nelson Mandela made the final steps of his long walk to freedom, when he walked out of Groot Drakenstein Prison (then called Victor Verster) in 1990.

Paarl’s best-preserved historical frontage is along oak-lined Main Street, which stretches for some 2km – not ideal for strolling, especially on a hot day.

Paarl Museum

303 Main St • Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 9am–1pm • R20

Housed in a handsome, thatched Cape Dutch building with one of the earliest surviving gables (dating back to 1787) in the “new style”, characterized by triangular caps, the contents of the Paarl Museum don’t quite match up to its exterior. Exhibits include some reasonably enlightening panels on the architecture of the town, and several eccentric glass display cases of Victorian bric-a-brac. Post-apartheid transformation has introduced some coverage of the indigenous Khoisan populations of the area and the changes that came with European colonization, including slavery.

Taal Monument

South along Main St past the head office of the KWV; follow signs to the right up the slope of the mountain • Daily 9am–5pm • Free

The only other sight of any interest in Paarl itself is the grandiose Taal Monument, the controversial memorial to the Afrikaans language, standing just outside the centre on the top of Paarl Mountain. The monument used to be as important a place of pilgrimage for Afrikaners as the Voortrekker Monument in Pretoria, although when it was erected in 1973 detractors joked that monuments were usually erected to the dead. From the coffee and curio shop you can admire a truly magnificent panorama across to the Cape Peninsula and False Bay in one direction and the Winelands ranges in the other.

Groot Drakenstein (Victor Verster) Prison

Roughly 9km south of the N1 as it cuts through Paarl, along the R301 (the southern extension of Jan van Riebeeck St)

The Victor Verster Prison, renamed Groot Drakenstein in 2000, was Nelson Mandela’s last place of incarceration. It was through the gates at Victor Verster that Mandela walked to his freedom on February 11, 1990, and it was here that the first images of him in 27 years were bounced around the world (under the Prisons Act, not even old pictures of him could be published during his imprisonment). The working jail looks rather like a boys’ school fronted by rugby pitches beneath hazy mountains, and there’s something bizarre about seeing a prison sign nonchalantly slipped in among all the vineyard and wine-route pointers.

Arrival and information: Paarl

By bus Daily Greyhound intercity buses from Cape Town (1hr) stop at the Monument Shell Garage, on the corner of Main Road and South Street, about 2km from the tourist office.

By train Metrorail and Spoornet services from Cape Town (18 daily; 1hr 15min) pull in at Huguenot Station in Lady Grey Street at the north end of town, near to the central shops.

Tourist information The tourist office, corner of Main and Plantasie streets (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; 021 872 4842, paarlonline.com), has a good selection of maps, including the wine routes, and can help with booking accommodation.

Accommodation

A’Queenslin 2 Queen St 021 863 1160, queenslin.co.za. Two en-suite rooms with their own entrances and garden spaces, and three doubles that share a bathroom, in a family home set in a quiet part of town, bounded on one side by vineyards and towered over by Paarl Rock. The rooms are large, each with a deck or patio and limited self-catering is possible – there’s a fridge and microwave. R900

Paarl Mountain Lodge 21 Enslin St 021 869 8045, paarlmountainlodge.co.za. Clean white rooms in a large home on a quiet street on the slopes of the Paarl mountain, 2km from the centre. There’s a deck with mountain views where you can drink your complimentary wine on arrival, and a swimming pool. Breakfasts are done buffet-style. R900

Under Oaks Vineyard Suites Off R45, 8km north of Paarl 021 869 8045, underoaks.co.za. Good-value-for-money luxury rooms, with ultra-comfy beds and linen, in a purpose-built, modern guesthouse on a vineyard overlooking the wide, fertile valley towards Wellington. Breakfast is served in a historic wine-estate dining room overlooking pastures, while dinner is at their pizzeria. You can try their flagship Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Sauvignon at the adjoining boutique winery. R1350

Eating

A working town, Paarl has none of the Winelands foodie pretensions of Franschhoek or Stellenbosch, but you’ll find a number of places along the main street for a decent coffee or a meal, as well as a couple of outstanding places in the surrounding vineyards.

Noop 127 Main St 021 863 3925, noop.co.za. This super-cool pavement wine bar and restaurant in an elegant period house has an extensive list of wines by the glass. Noop is well regarded for its steaks (R140) and seafood. Vegetarians can find at least one starter, salad or main. Risotto with truffle oil is a favourite (R120). Mon–Sat 11am–9.30pm.

Terra Mare 90A Main St 021 863 4805. Italian- and Mediterranean-influenced dishes, such as three-mushroom risotto for starters (R95) and chalkboard specials like ostrich fillet (R170), which use local ingredients and are infused with considerable flair. The glass and steel restaurant has great sweeping views of the Paarl Mountain. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm & 6–10pm.

Under Oaks Pizzeria Paarl Main Rd, 8km from centre 021 869 8962. The best thing about eating a delicious wood-fired pizza (R80) here, and drinking wine from grapes grown on the farm, is the setting beneath majestic oaks. There is a relaxed vibe, with children running about on the lawns; it is very popular with local families. Tues–Sat 11.30am–8.30pm, Sun noon–3.30pm.

clockwise from top Stellenbosch vines; the paarl afrikaans language monument; wine estate, paarl

The Wineries

There are a couple of notable wineries in Paarl itself, but most are on farms in the surrounding countryside. Boschendal, one of the most popular of these, is officially on the Franschhoek wine route, but is in easy striking distance of Paarl. Most of the wineries have a restaurant, which is generally of a high standard, and some have accommodation in beautiful rooms, which is often more appealing than staying in central Paarl.

Backsberg Estate 22km south of Paarl on Simondium Rd (WR1) 021 875 5141, backsberg.co.za; map. Notable as the first carbon-neutral wine estate in South Africa, Backsberg produces some top-ranking red blends, especially the Cabernet and Merlot, and a delicious Chardonnay, in its Black Label ranges. Outdoor seating, with views of the rose garden and vineyard on the slopes of the Simonsberg, makes this busy estate a nice place to while away some time. There’s also a restaurant and a maze to get lost in. Tasting R40 for five wines. Tasting Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8.30am–4pm, Sun 9.30am–4.30pm; restaurant daily 11.30am–3pm.

The Goatshed Fairview Estate Suid Agter Paarl Rd, on the southern fringes of town 021 863 2450, fairview.co.za; map. One of the most fun of all the Paarl estates (especially for families), with a resident population of goats who clamber up the spiral tower – you will see them also featured in the estate’s emblem, at the entrance. A deli sells breads and preserves, and you can also sample and buy the goats’, sheep’s and cows’ cheeses made on the estate. As far as wine-tasting goes (six wines and cheese selection R40), Fairview is an innovative, family-run place, but it can get a bit hectic when the tour buses roll in. The restaurant, no surprises here, offers a cheese platter with ten cheeses, bread and preserves (R115) and they are well known for their Sunday lunches. Tasting and restaurant daily 9am–5pm.

Laborie Taillefert St 021 807 3390, laboriewines.co.za; map. One of the most impressive Paarl wineries, all the more remarkable for being right in town. The beautiful manor is fronted by a rose garden, acres of close-cropped lawns, historic buildings and oak trees – all towered over by the Taal Monument. There’s a truly wonderful tasting room with a balcony that juts out over the vineyards trailing up Paarl Mountain, as well as a great restaurant with terrace seating offering good views of the town vineyards and mountains. Their flagship is the Jean Taillefert Shiraz, and their brandy is also worth a try. Tasting R25 for five wines. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

Horse and quad-bike trails

Hopping into the saddle and trotting off through the countryside offers a great alternative to seeing the Winelands from behind a restaurant table. At Rhebokskloof wine estate, 11.5km northwest of Paarl, you can do both.

Wine Valley Horse Trails 083 226 8735, horsetrails-sa.co.za. This company, based at Rhebokskloof, offers 1–4hr equestrian trails for novices and experts through the surrounding countryside – a choice spot for some riding. Prices start from R450 for a 1hr trail. For experienced riders who want some speed, there is a 3hr beach trail at Grotto Bay, from R1500 per person. They also do quad-bike trips which start at R450 for 1hr.

Rhebokskloof Signposted off the R45, 11.5km northwest of Paarl 021 869 8386, rhebokskloof.co.za; map. A highly photogenic wine estate, Rhebokskloof sits at the foot of sculptural granite koppies overlooking a lake with a shaded terrace for summer lunches and gourmet meals. Meat is the house speciality, with exciting combinations of flavours that are both Cape and international. It’s also a good place for morning or afternoon teas, and they can prepare picnics on the lawns outside (R400 for two). Their Sunday lunch buffets (R225) are tremendously popular. In terms of wine, Shiraz is where they make their mark. Wine tasting R20 for five wines. Mon–Sun 9am–5pm.

Spice Route Suid Agter Paarl Rd 021 863 5222, spiceroute.co.za; map. The Spice Route farm offers unusual tastings drawn from several artisanal producers who have grouped together in different buildings on the same premises. You can try beer at the Cape Brewing Company, handmade chocolate tasting at the DV Artisan Chocolate (R150), or local grappa at La Grapperia Pizza and Tapas Bar, the only place open in the evening after 5pm. Other residents include an art gallery, glass blowers and farm shop. Like nearby The Goatshed Fairview Estate, it is favoured by groups, so book in advance for tastings. Daily 9am–5pm.

Franschhoek

If indulgence is what the Winelands is really about, then Franschhoek is the place that does it best. Despite being a fairly small dorp, it has managed to establish itself as the culinary capital of the Western Cape, if not the whole country. Its late Victorian and more recent Frenchified rustic architecture, the terrific setting (it’s hemmed in on three sides by mountains), and the vineyards down every other backstreet have created a place you can really lose yourself in, a romantic set piece that unashamedly draws its inspiration from Provence.

Brief history

Between 1688 and 1700 about two hundred French Huguenots, desperate to escape religious persecution in France, accepted a Dutch East India Company offer of passage to the Cape and the grant of lands. They made contact with the area’s earliest settlers, groups of Khoikhoi herders. Conflict between the French newcomers and the Khoikhoi followed familiar lines, with the white settlers gradually dispossessing the herdsmen, forcing them either further into the hinterland or into servitude on their farms. The establishment of white hegemony was swift and by 1713 the area was known as de france hoek. Though French-speaking died out within a generation because of explicit Company policy, many of the estates hereabouts are still known by their original French names. Franschhoek itself, 33km from Stellenbosch and 29km from Paarl, occupies parts of the original farms of La Cotte and Cabrière and is relatively young, having been established around a church built in 1833.

Huguenot Museum and Huguenot Monument

Summer daily 9am–5pm , winter Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm • R10

Driving through Franschhoek, you can’t fail to miss the Huguenot Memorial Museum, thanks to its location next to the town’s most obvious landmark, the Huguenot Monument. Set in a prime position at the head of Huguenot Road, where it forms a T-junction with Lambrecht Street, the monument consists of three skinny interlocking arches, symbolizing the Holy Trinity. The museum gives comprehensive coverage of Huguenot history and culture, and of their contribution to modern South Africa.

Museum van de Caab

Solms Delta Wine Estate • Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–5pm, Fri & Sat 9am–6pm • Free • solms-delta.co.za

Twelve kilometres north of Franschhoek along the R45, at the Solms Delta Wine Estate, the highly recommended Museum van de Caab gives a condensed and riveting slice through South African vernacular history as it happened on the farm and its surrounds. Housed alongside the atmospherically understated tasting room in the original 1740s gabled Cape Dutch cellar, the display begins with Stone Age artefacts found on the site and goes on to trace the arrival of the aboriginal Khoisan people, their colonization by Europeans, the introduction of slavery and how this eventually evolved into the apartheid system and its eventual demise.

arrival and information: Franschhoek

By car There’s no scheduled public transport to Franschhoek or around the town itself, though everything is within walking distance. From Stellenbosch take the R310 heading north, then east out of town. The route winds through the beautiful Helshoogte Pass, with a bunch of first-class wineries lining the mountainside along the way. Roughly 16km from Stellenbosch the R310 hits a T-junction with the R45, where you should turn east (right) and take the road for 18km to Franschhoek.

Tourist office Just north of the junction with Kruger St the tourist office at 62 Huguenot Rd (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm; winter Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–4pm; 021 876 2861, franschhoek.org.za) has some excellent maps of the village and its winelands.

Activities

Equestrian wine tours Paradise Stables (Roberstsvlei Rd 021 876 2160 or 084 586 2160, paradisestables.co.za) runs tours that visit Rickety Bridge and Mont Rochelle wineries: wine tasting is included in the price, though lunch is not (2hr 30min in the saddle, 30–45min stop at each winery; R850; Mon–Sat 8.45am and 1.15pm). Their Arabian horses, ridden with halters, are as good as gold, and beginners can be accommodated. The farm itself, where you start the ride, has a couple of reasonably priced cottages for rent (R500).

Hiking The best hike in the vicinity is the Cat se Pad (Cat’s Path), which starts as you head out of town up the Franschhoek Pass. The walk leads into fynbos with proteas, and gives instant access to the mountains surrounding the valley, with good views. The first 2km section gets you to the top of the pass, and you can keep going for another 10km in the direction of Villiersdorp (though you don’t actually reach it).

Accommodation

On the whole, guesthouse accommodation here is pricey, but the rooms are of high quality and frequently in unparalleled settings; budget accommodation is hard to find, but there are a couple of reasonably priced self-catering cottages and a backpackers. It can be hard to find a bed in Franschhoek during the summer, so book as far ahead as possible. Some of the wine estates outside town also offer luxury rooms.

Akademie Street Boutique Hotel 5 Akademie St 082 517 0405, aka.co.za. Luxury guesthouse offering total privacy in each of its tastefully decorated and spacious suites set in beautiful gardens, with a number of original and striking artworks. Facilities include DVDs, a fridge stocked with free drinks and a long, saltwater swimming pool. Gourmet breakfasts with regional specialities are served poolside by the charming hosts who’ll happily recommend a restaurant for dinner and book a table for you. R5000

Avondrood Guest House 39 Huguenot St 021 876 2881, avondrood.com. A guesthouse with six rooms in a beautifully restored home, which gets accolade after accolade for the level of comfort and aesthetic experience offered. There are extensive lawns, a manicured garden and a pool. R2850

Bird Cottage and Frog Lodge Verdun Rd, 4.5km from town 021 876 2136, grahamh@radionet.co.za. Two artistically furnished cottages that each sleep four, surrounded by beautiful indigenous gardens close to the mountains, with a dam to swim in. This is about as remote as you’ll find this close to Franschhoek, and it’s thoroughly laidback and exceptional value. R800

Corner House Guest House Cnr of Riebeeck & Union sts 021 876 4729, thecornerhouse.co.za. One of the few moderately priced popular guesthouses, Dutch-run Corner House offers six bright and spotless rooms, and a pretty garden with pool. It’s a good base from which to explore the area. They’re especially pet-friendly. R1400

Explorers Club Cottages Cabrière St 021 876 4229, explorersclub.co.za. A collection of centrally located self-catering houses – all absolutely luxurious, modern and tasteful. Each house sleeps two to ten people. The Map Room is ideally suited to couples, with a living space upstairs and folding glass doors opening onto a terrace with vineyard and mountain views. Their portfolio now includes cottages on La Cotte wine farm, 7km from Franschhoek. Explorers Club can also arrange meals to be delivered to you, or the services of a private chef. R2850

La Bourgogne Riverside Cottages Excelsior Rd 021 876 3245, labourgogne.co.za. Six simply but very tastefully furnished converted labourers’ cottages set in gardens along a river. They are self-catered but you can get breakfast and coffee from the deli/farmshop on the property. The working farm presses their own olive oil and produces wines, including the highly rated Progeny Sémillon (R250); wine tasting is offered for free when you stay here. R900

Otters Bend Lodge Dassenberg Rd 021 876 3200, ottersbendlodge.co.za. Rustic lodge with double and twin-bedded cabins, dorms, and camping on the lawn, 5min drive from town and surrounded by orchards and vineyards. There is an inviting communal area, complete with a roaring fire in winter, a well-equipped kitchen and an outside braai area. Camping R200, dorms R200, doubles R550

Plumwood Inn 11 Cabrière St 021 876 3883, plumwoodinn.com. Unfailingly excellent boutique guesthouse with smart, clean and modern furnishings. They’ve paid close attention to detail throughout – from the custom-made cotton tablecloths to the luxurious beds and bathrooms, and the impeccable service. R3000

Eating

Eating and drinking is what Franschhoek is all about, so plan on sampling at least one or two of its excellent restaurants, some of which rate among the country’s best; it goes without saying that there is excellent wine at every turn. Franschhoek’s cuisine tends to be French-inspired, but with an emphasis on local ingredients. Restaurants in town are concentrated along Huguenot Rd, but there are a number of excellent alternatives in the more rustic environment of the surrounding wine estates, several of which do picnics in their beautiful grounds. Booking is essential, particularly for the most flash of the restaurants, and winter opening hours may be reduced. Every Saturday (9am–3pm) there is a Farmers’ Market in the churchyard on Main Rd. Come here for delicious goodies, and coffee, and to stock up on food for the weekend.

Bread & Wine Vineyard Restaurant Moreson Farm, Happy Valley Rd 021 876 3692, moreson.co.za. Signposted off the R45 and surrounded by lemon orchards and vineyards, this is a genial and child-friendly venue, consistently in the top twenty restaurants in the country. The two or three-course menus (R300) change with the seasons, and the chef Neil smokes the meat and fish himself, while his wife Tina bakes outstanding bread. Daily noon–3pm.

Café Des Arts 7 Reservoir St, next to the library 021 876 2952, cafedesarts.co.za. Service and food are consistently good here, with unfussy but flavoursome dishes. It’s a relaxed spot – you can walk in barefoot. They are known for their fish, but it’s also good for dinner, or coffee and breakfast, when favourites include the truffled scrambled eggs with wilted baby spinach (R95). Mon–Sat 8am–3pm & 6.30–10pm.

De Oude Slavenhuis Huguenot Museum, Huguenot St 021 876 2192. Reasonably priced and uncomplicated food served both indoors and outdoors under umbrellas, with plenty of play space on the lawns, for children. Dishes include smoked salmon and scrambled egg (R65), salads, tea and scones. Daily 8am–4pm.

Foliage 11 Huguenot Rd 021 876 2328. Sophisticated comfort food, with a forest-to-plate philosophy showcasing the chef’s skills in foraging, pickling and preserving, using free-range meat, wild vegetables and herbs. Try the pan-fried Angel fish, river greens and Cape Malay velouté (R150). In winter sit in the kitchen with an open fire, and in summer relax next to the street. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & 6–9pm.

La Petite Ferme Franschhoek Pass Rd 021 876 3016, lapetiteferme.co.za. With gorgeous views across a vineyard-covered valley, this restaurant is a Franschhoek institution, and if you start off here it will set the bar for your whole visit. You may be tempted to lie on the grass after lunch, and order bottle after bottle. Slow roasted lamb has been on the menu for thirty years and never fails to please (R190). Daily: summer noon–4pm & 7–9pm; winter noon–4pm.

DRINKING

The Hoek 36 Huguenot St 079 451 3019. For coffee fanatics, this is the only pure espresso bar in town and it’s a double-shot unless you request otherwise. There’s excellent ice cream too, and casual seating at wooden tables. Mon–Sat 7am–3pm, Sun 8am–3pm.

Tuk Tuk Microbrewery 14 Huguenot Rd 021 492 2207. Delicious craft beers (which you can also buy to take home) with a European café feel, sitting out on the terrace on a balmy evening. Mexican bites like a plate of cheese quesadillas with chicken, tomato and cream sauce and guacamole go down well (R100) and a favourite dessert is cinnamon churros dipped in chocolate (R90). Daily 11am–10pm.

The wineries

Franschhoek’s wineries are small enough and sufficiently close together to make it a breeze to visit two or three in a morning. Heading north through town from the Huguenot Monument, you’ll find most of the wineries signposted off Huguenot Rd and its extension, Main Rd; the rest are off Excelsior Rd and the Franschhoek Pass Rd.

Babylonstoren Simondium Rd 021 863 3852, babylonstoren.com. There are tourists aplenty here, but for good reason. Babylonstoren is a less traditional estate, beautifully set against the high Drakenstein mountains, with beautiful, extensive gardens, a shop (look for South African cookery books and upmarket crafts), ducks, chickens and olive trees as well as many acres under vine. They’re the new kid on the block in terms of wine, but are already accruing a reputation for their red blend, Babel, and their Viognier. Of the two restaurants, the Green House is less formal while Babel is known for more traditional South African food, and inspired by the completely edible garden. Booking is required. Entry to the estate costs R20. Estate daily 9am–5pm (last entry 4pm; Green House daily 10am–4pm; Babel Mon & Tues 7–8.30pm, Wed–Sun noon–3.30pm & 7–8.30pm.

Boschendal Pniel Rd, just after the junction of the R45 and R310 to Stellenbosch 021 870 4274, boschendalwines.com. One of the world’s longest-established New World wineries, Boschendal draws busloads of tourists – around 200,000 visitors a year – with its impressive Cape Dutch buildings, tree-lined avenues, beautiful gardens, restaurants and cafés and, of course, its wines. Of their six labels the Pavilion range delivers high-class, well-priced plonk (Shiraz–Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé and a white blend); but their top ranges consistently deliver with classy wines like the Cecil John Reserve Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc, and their Reserve range Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Bordeaux-blend Grande Reserve. Tasting R50. Try their famous “pique nique” basket (R360 for two) on the extensive lawns. Book in advance on their website. There is also a vegetarian picnic, a low carb option, a kids option and more enticingly, full moon picnics in the summer. Daily 9am–4.30pm.

Cabrière at Haute Cabrière About 2km from town along the Franschhoek Pass Rd 021 876 8500, cabriere.co.za. Atmospheric winery notable for its Pinot Noirs and colourful wine-maker Achim von Arnim, whose presence guarantees an eventful visit; try to catch him or, more commonly now, his son Takuan, when they demonstrate sabrage – slicing off the upper neck of a bubbly bottle with a French cavalry sabre. Cabrière is noted for its top-notch Pierre Jourdan range of sparkling wines and it specializes in Pinot Noir and blends made with the cultivar. Tasting R30 for five wines and R60 for five bubblies. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm, Sun 11am–4pm.

Mont Rochelle Dassenberg Rd 021 876 2770, montrochelle.co.za. Set against the Klein Dassenberg, Mont Rochelle has one of the most stunning settings in Franschhoek – one that was seized upon by Richard Branson and given a contemporary and vibrant make-over. Chardonnay is what they do best here, but don’t overlook their also stellar Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. It is best visited in the evening (bar and restaurant open until 10pm) to catch the sunset or moonrise. They also offer very comfortable accommodation and have two restaurants and picnics available (R360 for two). Tasting for five wines costs R45. Daily 10am–6pm.

Solms Delta 13km north of Franschhoek along the R45 021 874 3937, solms-delta.co.za. Pleasantly bucolic Solms Delta produces unusual and consistently outstanding wines, which, on a summer’s day, you can taste under ancient oaks at the edge of the vineyards with a picnic (R365 for two people). Half the profits from the wines produced go into a trust that benefits residents of the farm and the Franschhoek Valley. The Solms-Wijn de Caab range, with some new cultivars, includes the excellent Hiervandaan (an unusual blend dominated by Shiraz, and including Carignan, Mourvèdre and Viognier grapes) and the even more highly rated Amalie (vine-dried Grenache Blanc and Viognier). Tasting R25 for five wines. Daily 9am–5pm.

Stony Brook Vineyards About 4km from Franschhoek, off Excelsior Rd 021 876 2182, stonybrook.co.za. Family-run boutique winery, with just 140,000 square metres under vine, that produces first-rate wines, including its acclaimed flagship Ghost Gum Cabernet Sauvignon, which takes its name from a magnificent old tree outside the rather informal tasting room. Tastings are convivial affairs conducted by the owners and are by appointment only (R35). Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–1pm.

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