The Whale Coast and Overberg Interior

From roughly July to November, southern right whales can be seen in the warm, sheltered bays of the Western Cape, and the southern Cape coast is prime territory for sightings. The Whale Coast, as the section from roughly Kleinmond to De Hoop has come to be known, is close enough for an easy outing from Cape Town, and yet, with the exception of popular Hermanus, is surprisingly undeveloped. The Overberg Interior – the stretch as far as Swellendam, along the N2 towards the Garden Route – is dominated by the towns of Greyton, a peaceful, oak-lined country town 35km off the main road, and Swellendam, a town brimming with historical guesthouses and decent restaurants, as well as the Bontebok National Park.

Hermanus

On the edge of rocky cliffs and backed by mountains, 112km east of Cape Town, HERMANUS sits at the northernmost end of Walker Bay, an inlet whose protective curve attracts calving whales as it slides south to Danger Point. The town trumpets itself as South Africa’s whale capital – an official whale crier (purportedly the world’s only one) struts around with a mobile phone and a dried kelp horn through which he yells sightings. Hype aside, the bay here does provide some of the world’s finest shore-based whale-watching and, even if there are better spots nearby, the town is the most geared-up place for tourists. There is still the slightest trace of a once-quiet fishing village around the historic harbour, but for the most part the town has gorged itself on its whale-generated income, which has produced shopping malls, supermarkets and craft shops.

Main Road, the continuation of the R43, meanders through Hermanus, briefly becoming Seventh Street. Market Square, just above the old harbour and to the south of Main Street, is the closest thing to a centre, and it’s here you’ll find the heaviest concentration of restaurants, craft shops and flea markets.

Apart from whales, Hermanus is also known for its wines, grown in the nearby Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, which sits inland from the R43. The valley is home to some sensational places to eat and drink.

Old Harbour Museum

The Old Harbour • Mon–Sat 9am–4.30pm, Sun noon–4pm • R25

Just below Market Square is the Old Harbour Museum where, among the uncompelling displays, you’ll find lots of fishing tackle and some sharks’ jaws. Outside, a few colourful boats, used by local fishermen from the mid-eighteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries, create a photogenic vignette in the tiny harbour.

The Cliff Path

An almost continuous 5km cliff path through fynbos hugs the coastline from the Old Harbour to Grotto Beach in the eastern suburbs. For one short stretch, the path heads away from the coast and follows Main Road before returning to the shore. This path makes an excellent place to spot whales, and you can do as little of the walk as you like.

Fernkloof Nature Reserve

Theron St • Dawn–dusk • Free

On the east side of town, off Main Road, the Fernkloof Nature Reserve encompasses fifteen square kilometres of mountainous terrain and offers sweeping views of Walker Bay. This highly recommended wilderness area is more than just another nature reserve on the edge of town – it has some 40km of waymarked footpaths, including a 4.5km circular nature trail. Visiting is an excellent way to get close to the astonishing variety of delicate montane coastal fynbos (over a thousand species have been identified in the reserve), much of it flowering species that attract scores of birds, including brightly coloured sunbirds and sugarbirds endemic to the area.

Swimming and beaches

East of the Old Harbour, just below the Marine Hotel, a beautiful tidal pool offers the only sea swimming around the town centre’s craggy coast; it’s big enough to do laps. For beaches, you have to head out east across the Mossel River to the suburbs, where you’ll find a decent choice, starting with secluded Langbaai, closest to town, a cove beneath cliffs at the bottom of Sixth Avenue that has a narrow strip of beach and is excellent for swimming. Voëlklip, at the bottom of Eighth Avenue, has grassed terraces, toilets, a nearby café for tea and is great for picnics if you prefer your sandwiches unseasoned with sand. Adjacent is Kammabaai, with the best surfing break around Hermanus, and 1km further east, Grotto Beach (which despite its name is not a rocky cove), marking the start of a twelve-kilometre curve of dazzlingly white sand that stretches all the way to De Kelders.

New Harbour

A couple of kilometres west of town along Westcliff, the New Harbour is a working fishing harbour, dramatically surrounded by steep cliffs, projecting a gutsy counterpoint to the more manicured central area. Whales sometimes enter the harbour – and there’s nowhere better to watch them than from the Harbour Rock Seagrill.

Rotary Way

On the eastern edge of Hermanus, Rotary Way is a fantastic 10km drive that follows the mountain spine through beautiful montane fynbos, offering sweeping views of the town, the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and Walker Bay from Kleinmond to Danger Point. To get here from town, turn right just after the sports ground, and take a track straddled by a pair of white gateposts labelled “Rotary Way”. The road is tarred for part of the way, then becomes a dirt track, eventually petering out altogether, which means you have to return the same way.

Wine Village

Hemel-en-Aarde Village, at the junction of R43 and R320 • Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–3pm • 028 316 3988, www.winevillage.co.za

Just on the outskirts of Hermanus is possibly the best wine shop in South Africa, the Wine Village, with a staggering selection of labels from all of the country’s various wine-producing districts, covering a vast price range. There are usually at least six bottles open for free wine-tasting and the staff are very knowledgeable. This is the place to stock up just before flying out – or have some cases shipped.

Arrival and departure: Hermanus

By car There are two routes to Hermanus, 125km from Cape Town. It’s more direct to take the N2 and head south onto the R43 at Bot River (1hr 30min drive), but the winding road that hugs the coast from Strand, leaving the N2 just before Sir Lowry’s Pass, is the more scenic and one of the best coastal drives in South Africa (2hr).

By bus The Baz Bus (021 422 5202, www.bazbus.com) drops off at Bot River, 34km northwest of Hermanus on the R43, where you can arrange to be collected by your hostel. Two shuttles – Bernadus (028 316 1093 or 083 658 7848) and Splash (028 316 4004) – ply the route between Hermanus and Cape Town (1hr 30min). They are effectively a taxi service, operating on demand, so you need to book in advance, though it is conveniently door-to-door. The journey one-way costs from R400–800 per person to the airport or centre of Cape Town; the price depends on the number of people taking the shuttle.

Information

Tourist information The tourist office at the old station building in Mitchell Street (May–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–5pm & Sun 9am–2pm; Sept–April Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; 028 312 2629, hermanustourism.info) is a helpful place, with maps, useful brochures about the area and a free accommodation-finding service. They can take bookings for boat-based and aerial whale-watching, as well as shark-cage diving trips.

Whale festival During the last week in September, the town puts on a fun show of anything that’s got a whale connection – check whalefestival.co.za for more details.

Accommodation

The most popular coastal destination outside Cape Town, Hermanus is awash with accommodation. If you want something more countrified, head to Stanford, 20mins drive around the the bay (though there are no beaches there). Alternatively, head further along the coast to Gansbaai, home to ugly holiday houses, but with great whale-viewing in season.

Auberge Burgundy 16 Harbour Rd 028 313 1201, auberge.co.za. A Provençal-style country house in the town centre, close to the water, projecting a stylish Mediterranean feel. The rooms are light and airy with imported French fabrics, and a lavender garden. R1870

Eastbury Cottages 36 Luyt St 028 312 1258, eastburycottage.co.za. Four fully equipped self-catering cottages close to the Marine Hotel. Prices vary depending on whether you are a couple or a group, and breakfast is available for R100. R800

Hermanus Esplanade 63 Marine Drive 028 312 3610, info@hermanusesplanade.com. Self-catering apartments of varying sizes, some are sea facing, while others face onto a courtyard. Go for the more expensive ones that feature views of the bay. R1000

House on Westcliff 96 Westcliff Rd 028 313 2388, westcliffhouse.co.za. This homely B&B is situated just out of the centre near the new harbour and boasts six bedrooms in a classic Cape-style house with a protected, tranquil garden and swimming pool. All rooms are en suite and have their own entrance off the garden, and there is also a three-bed family room, with a baby’s cot available. R1000

Robin’s Nest 10 Meadow Ave 028 316 1597, robinsnest-guesthouse.co.za. Three fully equipped, but plain, self-catering studio flats above a garage in a garden, 4km west of the centre. Reached through the Hemel-en-Aarde shopping village, these purpose-built, two-storey flats sleep two guests and have good mountain views. R700

Windsor Hotel 49 Marine Drive 028 312 3727, windsorhotel.co.za. This old, but popular, seafront hotel offers a full range of accommodation right on the cliff edge. It’s ideally situated in the centre of Hermanus and guests can enjoy sea views from the dining room, lounges and almost half of the bedrooms. R1500

Zoete Inval Traveller’s Lodge 23 Main Rd 028 312 1242, zoeteinval.co.za. A quiet and relaxing hostel, with a distinct lack of party vibe, comprising dorms, doubles and family suites, with extras like good coffee, a Jacuzzi and a fireplace. If you’re travelling with a baby, there is a baby bed that can be moved into your room. They can also organize all tours and outings in the area. Dorms R225, doubles R600, family room sleeping four R1200

Whale-watching

The Southern Cape, including Cape Town, provides some of the easiest and best places in the world for whale-watching. You don’t need to rent a boat or take a pricey tour to get out to sea; if you come at the right time of year, whales are often visible from the shore, although a good pair of binoculars will come in useful for when they are far out.

All nine of the great whale species of the southern hemisphere pass by South Africa’s shores, but the most commonly seen off Cape Town are southern right whales (their name derives from being the “right” one to kill because of their high oil and bone yields and the fact that they float when dead). Southern right whales are black and easily recognized from their pale, brownish callosities. These unappealing patches of raised, roughened skin on their snouts and heads have a distinct pattern on each animal, which helps scientists keep track of them.

Female whales come inshore to calve in sheltered bays, and stay to nurse their young for up to three months. July to October is the best time to see them, although they start appearing in June and some stay around until December. When the calves are big enough, the whales head off south again, to colder, stormy waters, where they feed on enormous quantities of plankton, making up for the nursing months when the females don’t eat at all. Though you’re most likely to see females and young, you may see males early in the season boisterously flopping about the females, though they neither help rear the calves nor form lasting bonds with females.

What gives away the presence of a whale is the blow or spout, a tall smoky plume which disperses after a few seconds and is actually the whale breathing out before it surfaces. If luck is on your side, you may see whales breaching – the movement when they thrust high out of the water and fall back with a great splash.

The Whale Coast’s hottest whale spots

In Hermanus, the best vantage points are the concrete cliff paths that ring the rocky shore from New Harbour to Grotto Beach. There are interpretation boards at three of the popular vantage points (Gearing’s Point, Die Gang and Bientang’s Cave) – these are the most congested venues during the whale season. There are equally good spots elsewhere along the Walker Bay coast; aficionados claim that De Kelders, some 39km southeast of Hermanus, is even better, while De Hoop Nature Reserve, east of Arniston, is reckoned by some to be the ultimate place along the entire southern-African coast for whale-watching.

Several operators offer boat trips from Hermanus, all essentially offering the same service. Try Hermanus Whale Cruises (028 313 2722, www.hermanus-whale-cruises.co.za), which is a coloured fishing village community project. A boat for 87 passengers goes out four times daily from the New Harbour, for the two-hour trip (June–late Nov; R800). Boats must give a 50m berth to whales, but if a whale approaches a boat, the boat may stop and watch it for up to twenty minutes.

Further around Walker Bay, close to Gansbaai, Dyer Island Cruises (Geelbek St, Kleinbaai; 028 384 0406, whalewatchsa.com) does whale cruises during whale season in the Dyer Island area, and on each trip there is a marine biologist on hand to answer questions. Whale-watching trips depart daily (2hr 30min; R1100) from Kleinbaai at various times depending on weather conditions. Book in advance.

Perhaps the ultimate way to see whales is from the air. David Austin, based in Hermanus (African Wings; 082 555 7605, africanwings.co.za), flies a maximum of three people in a small plane over the bay to see whales, dolphins, sharks and other sea life. Flights range from thirty minutes (R3850 for three people) to an hour (R7300 for three people), all of which guarantee whale-spotting in season, and offer the opportunity to observe mothers and baby whales interacting.

Eating

Seafood is the obvious thing to eat in Hermanus – and you’ll find plenty of restaurants serving it – though the views are generally better than the food. There are a couple of excellent restaurants in the wine estate valley of Hemel-en-Aarde, west of town, and further afield in Stanford. Book well ahead at weekends and in summer; without a booking, you can always get fish and chips at the harbour. Food features large at the market held every Saturday morning at the Hermanus Cricket Grounds (8am–noon; hermanus.co.za/hermanus-market). Here you’ll find a variety of organic foods, excellent cheeses from Bot River as well as fresh pasta, pesto, muffins, hummus and baked goods.

Creation Restaurant Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 028 212 1107, creationwines.com. A fabulous place with an elegant, yet informal, setting. Tables, both inside and out, look onto the fynbos-clad mountains. The antipasto dishes and canapés are sublime, and the food is created to complement the wines (food and wine pairing R335). Children are well catered for, with their own tasting menu of five pairings of food with five surprise drinks (R75). Booking essential. Daily 11am–4pm.

Dutchies on Grotto Beach 10th Avenue, Grotto Beach, Voëlklip 028 314 1392, dutchies.co.za. The only place to eat right on the beach, and a good one at that. There isn’t much of a Dutch character in the menu, but the management and service sparkle. Prices are reasonable – a “health breakfast” (hot drink, fresh orange juice, fruit salad, Greek yoghurt and muesli) will set you back just R70, while a Dutch cheese and ham ciabatta sandwich is R80. Book ahead, especially to get outdoor seating. Daily 9am–9pm.

Lizette’s Bar & Restaurant 20 8th St, Voëlklip 028 314 0308, lizetteskitchen.com. Well-known chef Lizette Crabtree cooks up a storm in this spacious restored house, which has plenty of outdoor seating, a play area for kids and a cosy interior. With her experience of cooking in the East, you can expect Vietnamese street food (R100), curries, Moroccan dishes, and some South African favourites with a twist. Takeaway available, too, but no deliveries. Daily 9am–10pm.

Mogg’s Country Cookhouse Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, 12km from Hermanus along the R320 to Caledon 076 314 0671, moggscookhouse.com. A most unlikely location for one of Hermanus’s most successful restaurants – a farm cottage – with superb views across the valley. Mogg’s is an intimate place that’s always full and unfailingly excellent, serving whatever takes the fancy of chefs Jenny Mogg and her daughter Julia. Mains, which might include pan-fried line fish on red pepper risotto with a mushroom sauce (R125), are followed by a selection of great desserts. Booking is essential and kids are welcome. Wed–Sun noon–2.30pm.

Ocean Basket Fashion Square, Village Square 028 312 1313. As part of a reasonably priced and consistently reliable seafood chain, this restaurant is popular thanks in no small part to its fabulous setting, serving up cheap fish and chips (R70) and a variety of salads and other fish dishes. Mon–Sat noon–9pm, Sun noon– 8pm.

Paradiso Ristorante Italiano 83 Marine Drive 028 313 1153. Situated behind Village Square, near the water in a zone of tourist restaurants, this reliable Italian place does seafood dishes and chicken, alongside delicious pizza (R100) and pasta. Daily 11am–9.30pm.

DRINKING

Gecko Bar at Harbour Rock Seagrill New Harbour 028 312 2920. One of the best places in Hermanus for a sundowner (R60), this packed, noisy bar has excellent views and serves cocktails, pizzas, burgers and other pub grub. It allows smoking in some parts of the bar. For a more upmarket bite head next door to the Harbour Rock Seagrill. Daily 12.30pm–midnight.

Stanford

East of Hermanus, the R43 takes a detour inland around the attractive Klein River Lagoon, past the village of STANFORD, 155km from Cape Town. This historic village, established in 1857, has become something of a refuge for arty types – something that can best be appreciated on the arts and crafts route that takes in over a dozen artists’ studios. But apart from the town’s excellent microbrewery and some wine estates, Stanford’s principal attraction is its streetscape of simple Victorian architecture that includes limewashed houses and sandstone cottages – as well as an Anglican church – with thatched roofs that glow under the late afternoon sun.

Walker Bay wineries

Some of South Africa’s top wines come from the Hemel-en-Aarde (heaven and earth) Valley along the R320 to Caledon, which branches off the main road to Cape Town, 2km west of Hermanus. Several small wineries are dotted along the same road and are worth popping into for their intimate tasting rooms and first-class wines, with views of the stark, scrubby mountains just inland. The whole route is 20km, and some wineries also offer meals, notably Creation and Newton Johnson.

Hamilton Russell Winery (off R320, Hemel-en-Aarde Road; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm; 028 312 3595, hamiltonrussellvineyards.com) is the longest established of the Walker Bay wineries and produces some of South Africa’s priciest wines. They are especially known for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Adjacent to Hamilton Russell, towards Caledon, Bouchard Finlayson (Mon–Fri 9.30am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm; 028 312 3515, bouchardfinlayson.co.za) is another establishment with a formidable reputation, and a wider range of wines than its neighbour. Their flagship and award-winning wine, the Galpin Peak Pinot Noir, is grown on the slopes of Galpin peak. Their dry white blend, Blanc de Mer, alludes to the fact that these wines are hugely influenced by their proximity to the cool ocean. Two-thirds of the way down the route is Newton Johnson (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; 028 312 3862, newtonjohnson.com); its estate restaurant is rated for lunch. Getting towards the top of the valley, Ataraxia Wines (Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat 10am–5pm; 028 212 2007, ataraxiawines.co.za) is contemporary and stylish; its wine-tasting lounge, which is built like a chapel to contemplate the heavenly wines, has gorgeous mountain views. At the end of the line, Creation (daily 10am–5pm; 028 212 1107, creationwines.com) has fabulous wines and is known for its gourmet food and wine pairings (daily 11am–4pm), as well as chocolate- and tea-tasting. Book well in advance at weekends.

The Klein River

The town’s northern boundary is the attractive Klein River, which can be explored on a boat trip or by yourself in a kayak. For trips on the river, contact Ernie (083 310 0952) a two- to three-hour boat trip costs R150, while canoe and kayak rental is R100; book in advance, especially at the weekend. The price is for the entire day, if you choose. There’s rich birdlife in and among the rustling reed beds lining the riverbanks where you stand a chance of spotting the flashy malachite kingfisher.

Walker Bay Estate and Birkenhead Brewery

Just across the R43 from Stanford along the R326 • Beer and wine tasting daily 11am–5pm, R30 for six wines, R60 for six beers; Lunch daily 11am–4pm • 028 341 0013, walkerbayestate.com

Although Birkenhead Brewery bills itself as a “craft brewery estate”, the gleaming stainless-steel pipes and equipment inside soon dispel any images of bloodshot hillbillies knocking up a bit of moonshine on the quiet. This is a slick operation and a great place to go for a pub lunch or to buy craft beers, which put those of SAB, South Africa’s big brewing near-monopoly, in their place. They have also added winemaking to their talents, so you can try both wine and beer.

Arrival and information: Stanford

By car Stanford is 155km from Cape Town. Take the Hermanus off-ramp from the N2 (about 90km from Cape Town), and follow the R43 for another 65km through Hermanus to Stanford.

Tourist office Located on Main Road (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 9am–1pm; 028 341 0340, stanfordtourism.co.za), the tourist office can help with booking accommodation, and can also provide a brochure for a walkabout you can do that takes in the various historical houses in the village. Their website has a list of cottages to rent, and many are bookable via the website. They can provide information on wineries to visit and other activities, as well as the arts and crafts route.

Accommodation

B’s Cottage 17 Morton St 028 341 0430 or 083 293 5512, www.stanford-accommodation.co.za. This centrally located, small, thatched house features open-plan self-catering and sleeps two upstairs, with a sleeper couch in the downstairs living room. There’s also an English-style country garden, as well as another, similar adjoining cottage. It’s popular so book well ahead. Weekend bookings are for two nights only. R750

Mosaic Farm 10km from the centre, exit from Queen Victoria St 028 313 2814, mosaicsouthafrica.com. Stone, canvas and thatch self-catering chalets on the river here, with 4km of lagoon frontage. Chalets can sleep a couple or a group. Cruises, nature walks, canoeing and 4WD excursions to the beach are available. At the luxury end, the full-board Lagoon Lodge on the same site (R6200) is a lagoon-side safari camp. The natural setting of the farm and access to a wild part of the lagoon and coast is fabulous. R900

Stanford River Lodge 4km from the centre, exit from Queen Victoria St 028 341 0444, stanfordriverlodge.co.za. Sunny, spacious and modern self-catering cottages with river and mountain views. It’s a lovely, upmarket place with river swimming and canoeing in summer. Bring all you need by way of supplies, though it is possible to order a breakfast basket 24hr in advance. R900

Eating

In addition to the restaurants listed below, Stanford is also home to a number of lovely coffee shops located along the quiet main road. Like every small town in the Western Cape, Stanford has a Saturday morning market (9am–noon). Located on the veranda of the Stanford Hotel, in Queen Victoria Street, this is the place to buy ready-made meals, bread, pastries, quiches and ingredients for picnics and self-catering. On Wednesdays (9am–noon) there are organic vegetables and other goodies for sale outside Graze Restaurant, opposite the Stanford Hotel. Outside of town, the most outstanding food is to be found at Springfontein Winery (see box below), and should be top of the list for food and wine.

Stanford FOOD and wine

Two kilometres beyond Birkenhead Brewery, and 7km from Stanford on the R326, is the Klein River Cheese Farm (Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; 028 341 0693, kleinrivercheese.co.za), which offers tastings of its famous Gruyère, Leiden, Colby and Dando cheeses. Buy one of their picnic baskets at lunchtime and enjoy it sitting under the trees next to the river; book online in advance, it is deservedly popular.

As everywhere else in the Cape, more and more vineyards are opening, fynbos giving way to grapes, but possibly Stanford’s best wine is sold from Raka (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–3pm; 028 341 0676, rakawine.co.za), 17km from town along the R326. Even if you don’t get out there, be sure to try their wine, they sell countrywide and internationally, and it is served up throughout the region.

Springfontein Winery, on the Stanford Lagoon, 5km from Stanford on the Queen Victoria St Extension (Mon–Wed & Fri–Sun 11.30am–8.30pm, closed Wed during winter; 028 341 0651, www.springfontein.co.za) is a great destination for wine tasting and enjoying good food. The Barn tasting room (R25) doubles up as a German-style pub with excellent cheese, salad and sausages on offer. There is also a separate, outstanding restaurant open for lunch (Thurs–Sun from 12.30pm), and dinner (Wed–Sun from 6.30pm), which does sophisticated three-course or six-course lunches and dinners (R440–720), with Springfontein and other boutique wines, cooked by Michelin-starred chef Jurgen Schneider. Book in advance.

Madres Kitchen Robert Stanford Estate, 1km west of Stanford 028 341 0647. The best place to have breakfast on the edge of town, and the lunches, with platters of home-made bread, pâtés and cheeses, plus herbs and vegetables from the garden, complemented with wines from their own estate, are also fabulous (R130). It is great for children, with lawns, a jungle gym and ducks to feed, and they also do picnics. Thurs– Sun 8am–4pm.

Mariana’s Bistro and Home Deli Du Toit St 028 341 0272. The innovative and reasonably priced, award-winning country food served at this Victorian cottage is good enough to draw Cape Town gourmands out for the day, and is an absolute food highlight of the region. Food and wines are local, and many of the vegetables are picked from the owners’ garden. The owners host in a warm and engaged way. Vegetarians can enjoy chèvre tart or home-made ricotta in local vine leaves (R90). You’ll need to book a couple of months beforehand, though cancellations may be a possibility. Try for a table on the stoep for a long lazy lunch. No children under 10. Thurs–Sun noon–4pm.

Gansbaai

GANSBAAI, 175km from Cape Town, is a workaday place, economically dependent on its fishing industry and the seafood canning factory at the harbour. This gives the town a more gutsy feel than the surrounding holiday lands, but there’s little reason to spend time here unless you want to engage in great white shark safaris, Gansbaai’s other major industry. It is an appropriately competitive and cut-throat business with operators engaged in a blind feeding frenzy to attract punters. Boats set out from Gansbaai to Dyer Island, east of Danger Point, where great white sharks come to feed on the resident colony of seals.

De Kelders

A suburb of Gansbaai, De Kelders is a treeless area of bland holiday homes and ostentatious seafront mansions on cliffs that look out across Walker Bay to Hermanus. Its rocky coast, though, provides outstanding whale-watching and there is access to a beautiful, long sandy beach at the Walker Bay Nature Reserve.

Walker Bay Nature Reserve and the Klipgat Strandloper Caves

Access is at the end of Cliff Rd • Daily 7am–7pm • R30

You can clamber over rocky sections and walk for miles along the beach at the Walker Bay Nature Reserve, known by everyone as “Die Plat”. Swimming is very dangerous though, and it’s best not to venture in more than knee-high. From the car park, a path leads down to the Klipgat Strandloper Caves, excavated in the early 1990s, when evidence was unearthed of modern human habitation from 80,000 years ago. The caves became unoccupied for a few thousand years, after which they were used again by Khoisan people 20,000 years ago. Shells, middens, tools and bones were uncovered; some of these are now displayed in the South African Museum in Cape Town. From the caves, the waymarked Duiwelsgats hiking trail goes east for 7km as far as Gansbaai and is a good way to explore the coastline, which can also be accessed at a number of other points.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

Set among the hills 6km before De Kelders, Grootbos Private Nature Reserve (028 384 8000, grootbos.com) is an exceedingly tasteful, luxurious ecolodge that offers whale-watching safaris, horseriding and fynbos tours. Even if you can’t stay – and it is undoubtedly the top accommodation along the Whale Coast – you can visit for the day and enjoy superb gourmet meals at reasonable rates, though you’ll need to book ahead. Full board, including all activities, ranges from R4500– 7400 per person per night. If it’s outside of Christmas and Easter, they offer a last-minute special, which gives thirty percent off the normal rates, and can be booked 48 hours in advance via their website.

arrival and INFORMATION: Gansbaai

By car Gansbaai is 175km from Cape Town. Take the Hermanus off-ramp from the N2 (about 90km from Cape Town), and follow the R43 for another 85km through Hermanus, Stanford, De Kelders and Gansbaai.

By bus The shuttle Bernadus (028 316 1093 or 083 658 7848) does the trip 45km around the coast from Cape Town to Gansbaai for around R900 per person (2hr).

Tourist office Great White Junction, Kapokblom St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–2pm; 028 384 1439, gansbaaiinfo.com).

Accommodation

Cliff Lodge 6 Cliff St 028 384 0983, clifflodge.co.za. A stylish seafront guesthouse, with friendly owners, perched on the cliffs of De Kelders, with breathtaking views from all four luxurious bedrooms and the spacious penthouse suite, plus a deck for whale-watching and a pool for your own splashing. R2900

Crayfish Lodge Killarney St 028 384 1898, crayfishlodge.com. This is the top stay in town; a palatial guesthouse with sea views and an individual patio or courtyard for all five rooms. If you’re treating yourself, go for the upstairs suites with Jacuzzis. A path leads down to a rocky beach with a channel for bathing or there’s a heated swimming pool. Doubles R2800, suites R3800

Eating and drinking

Blue Goose 12 Franken St 028 384 1106. Fresh, locally sourced seafood and meat, complemented with regional wines. Their spicy fish curry (R150) and tempura prawns are recommended, and there is always a pasta for vegetarians. Daily 7–10pm.

Boat House Restaurant and Pub Gansbaai Harbour. This is the place to come for over-the-counter traditional fresh fish and chips (R70) in big portions, or to enjoy a beer sitting on the veranda while watching the fishing boats come in. Daily 9am–5pm.

Coffee on the Rocks Cliff St 028 384 2017. A small bistro that does great coffee, cakes and light meals, with a deck in an unsurpassed position for whale-watching; also a good choice for leisurely Sunday roasts (R130). Booking is essential. Wed–Sun 10am–5pm.

Grootbos Nature Reserve Off R43, 8km west of Gansbaai 028 384 8008. This delightful ecolodge is one of the culinary highlights of the area – offering fine-dining traditional cuisine with a modern twist. What’s more, it’s surprisingly reasonable for the quality of food you receive. They run a set menu only; a three-course lunch will set you back R300 while the dinner is R460. Definitely arrive early before dinner to enjoy a sundowner while taking in the view. Daily 1–3pm & 7–9pm.

Danger Point

Danger Point, the southernmost point of Walker Bay, is where British naval history was allegedly made. True to its name, the Point lured the ill-fated HMS Birkenhead onto its hidden rocks on February 26, 1852. As was the custom, the captain of the troopship gave the order “Every man for himself”. Displaying true British pluck, the soldiers are said to have lined up in their ranks on deck where they stood stock-still, knowing that if one man broke ranks it would lead to a rush that might overwhelm the lifeboats carrying women and children to safety. The precedent of “women and children first”, which became known as the Birkenhead Drill, was thus established, even though 445 lives were lost in the disaster.

Cape Agulhas and around

Along the east flank of the Danger Point promontory, the rocky and shallow coastline with heavy swells and strong currents makes this one of South Africa’s most treacherous stretches of coast – it has claimed over 250 wrecks and around 2500 lives. Its rough terrain also accounts for the lack of a coastal road from Gansbaai and Danger Point to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa.

The plain around the southern tip of South Africa has been declared the Agulhas National Park to conserve its estimated two thousand species of indigenous plant, marine and intertidal life as well as a cultural heritage which includes shipwrecks and archeological sites – stone hearths, pottery and shell middens have been discovered here.

The actual tip of the continent is marked by a rock and plaque about 1km below the landmark of Agulhas Lighthouse, towards Suiderstrand. There is no fee to walk around the tip, which is part of the Agulhas National Park. Undramatic as it is, the famous spot is definitely worth seeing, where Africa simply tails off into a few rocks in the sea. Following the dirt road to Suiderstrand itself takes you to some beautiful undeveloped beaches, and the National Park beach cottages, but the road is very corrugated and rough. L’AGULHAS, referred to simply as Agulhas, is the rather windblown, treeless settlement associated with the southern tip. Consisting of a small collection of holiday houses and a few shops, it’s a much quieter coastal destination than anywhere along the Garden Route. The centre of Agulhas is along Main Road, where you’ll find a couple of restaurants, a small supermarket and a craft shop. There is a large tidal pool on the left, just before you reach the Lighthouse, which is perfect if you fancy a swim.

STRUISBAAI, 4km before you reach Agulhas, is worth considering staying in, rather than Agulhas itself, if you want access to sandy beaches, as the coastline around Agulhas is very rocky. It has the added attraction of a small harbour and a couple of restaurants.

Dyer Island and shark alley

How a black American came to be living on an island off South Africa in the early nineteenth century is something of a mystery. But, according to records, Samson Dyer arrived here in 1806 and made a living collecting guano on the island that subsequently took his name.

Dyer Island is home to substantial African penguin and seal breeding colonies, both of which are prized morsels among great white sharks. So shark-infested is the channel between the island and the mainland at some times of year that it is known as Shark Alley, and these waters are used extensively by operators of great-white viewing trips. If you go on a trip, you’ll be safely contained within a sturdy boat or cage. This is a luxury that a group of West African castaways could not afford when, in 1996, they found themselves washed up here as the Taiwanese merchant vessel they were riding on sank en route to the Far East. One of them drowned, but the rest (amazingly) survived five days at sea, including a stint down Shark Alley, clinging to pieces of timber and barrels.

Agulhas Lighthouse

Daily 9am–4.30pm • R40

The red-and-white Agulhas Lighthouse, commissioned in 1849, offers vertiginous views from its top, reached by a series of steep ladders, and is a landmark not to be missed. The appeal of lonely lighthouses on rugged coastal edges beaming out signals to ships at night is explored here through interesting exhibits about lighthouses around South Africa.

Struisbaai

East of Agulhas is STRUISBAAI (pronounced “strace-bye”, often simply referred to as Strace), notable for its endless white-sand beach. The further away you walk from the uninspiring holiday homes and camping site, the better it gets, and you could literally walk the whole day on the beach around the bay. Swimming is fantastic too, and safe, with the typically dark turquoise-coloured water of these parts.

It is worth going to the small harbour at Struisbaai where there are frequently sightings of giant stingrays gracefully gliding through the water and wooden struts of the slipway. Totally safe, the resident giant ray, Parrie, even has his own Facebook page. From the jetty, there is a lovely wooden walkway to take you along the coast to some rocky beaches.

Arrival and information: cape Agulhas and around

By car Agulhas is 230km from Cape Town. Take the N2 to Caledon (115km), then the R316 to Bredasdorp; here, the westerly branch of the R319 will take you down to Agulhas (43km). The drive takes you through rolling farmlands where you are almost certain to see South Africa’s national bird, the elegant and endangered blue crane, feeding in the fields. Both the small towns of Napier and Bredasdorp en route have appealing cafés and restaurants to tempt you to break the journey.

By taxi transfer Mrs Marie Johannes runs a daily door-to-door taxi company from Cape Town, which can drop you in Agulhas or Struis (082 691 9075, R350).

Tourist information At Agulhas Lighthouse (daily 9am–5pm; 028 435 7185, discovercapeagulhas.co.za) is astoundingly good and they have a comprehensive map of the area with useful listings, as well as the comprehensive Overberg Wine (free), which covers estates in Elim, Greyton, Stanford, Napier and Hermanus. It is really worth leaving the beach and venturing out to explore wine farms in the region. If you want to taste and buy wines from the region, the infallibly excellent Wine Boutique ( 082 567 7858) on the Main Road, across the road from Seagulls Pub and Restaurant, stocks wines of the region and can certainly advise.

Accommodation

Cape Agulhas Backpackers Cnr of Duiker & Main roads, Struisbaai 082 372 3354, capeagulhasbackpackers.com. The only budget place around Agulhas has camping, dorms and doubles, all with good bedding, plus a pool and garden. It’s run by a couple who are big on helping you enjoy the outdoors and will organize fishing, surfing lessons, kite-surfing or horseriding. Camping R100, dorms R160, doubles R450

Cape Agulhas National Park Rest Camp Suiderstrand 7km west of Agulhas 028 435 6078, sanparks.org. If you want a remote beach experience, and some hiking, opt for one of the sea view cottages in Suiderstrand. They are fully equipped for self-catering, and you need to collect the key from the National Park office near the Lighthouse before 6pm during the week, or 5pm at the weekend, and pay the R150 per person conservation fee. Take everything with you, as you won’t want to be bumping along this road to the shops. R1100

Langezandt Fishermans Village Murex St, Struisbaai 028 435 7547, langezandt.co.za. Self-catering, exclusive beach villas on an estate, built to look like traditional white-washed, thatched local houses. They are geared to families, but there are some smaller units. The location is fabulous, right at the edge of town, with direct access to miles of sandy beach for walking or swimming. R1200

Southermost B&B Cnr of Van Breda & Lighthouse sts 028 435 6565, southermost.co.za. A well-loved and rather dilapidated historic beach cottage, run by the welcoming Meg, opposite the tidal pool with an indigenous garden sloping down to the water’s edge. It is an easy walk from here to the centre to get an evening meal. It’s closed in winter. R800

Eating

Agulhas Seafoods 118 Main Rd, Agulhas 028 435 7207. The fish and chips at Agulhas Seafoods is so succulent and delicious that Capetonians have been known to travel all the way out here to enjoy it (R65). As well as local fish, they also serve calamari and sushi, accompanied by a selection of wine and beers. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun 10am–3pm.

Pelicans Harbour Café Struisbaai Harbour 028 435 6526. Straightforward fish and chips place with wooden tables and benches. This could be a good place to try legitimately farmed and harvested abalone (R190), a delicacy normally associated with poaching, otherwise go for the mussels or locally caught line fish. Daily 10am–9pm.

Twisted Fork Restaurant and Bar 184 Main Rd, Agulhas 028 435 6291. This is the place to go for a night out at the pub, and the food is not bad either. The Thai chicken and prawn curry is recommended (R120), and the catch of the day is served with excellent chips. Daily 11am–2am.

Arniston

After the deep blues of the Atlantic to the west, the azure of the Indian Ocean at ARNISTON is startling, made all the more dazzling by the white dunes. Situated 220km from Cape Town, this is one of the best places to stay in the Overberg – if you want nothing more than the sea. The colours may be tropical, but the wind can howl unpredictably here, as anywhere else along the Cape coast, and when it does, there’s nothing much to do. The village is known to locals by its Afrikaans name, Waenhuiskrans (“wagon-house cliff”), after a cliff containing a huge cave 1500m south of town, which trekboers reckoned was spacious enough for a wagon and span of oxen (the largest thing they could think of). The English name derives from a British ship, the Arniston, which hit the rocks here in 1815.

ELIM MISSION STATION

ELIM, a Moravian mission station 40km northwest of Agulhas, founded in 1824, has streets lined with thatched, whitewashed houses and fig trees, though feels rather run-down and forsaken. You can wander about the central area, which is the most attractive part, and take in the architecture and history by visiting the church, the restored water mill where wheat is still ground, and the memorial commemorating the emancipation of slaves in 1834, the only such monument in South Africa. Its presence reflects the fact that numerous freed slaves found refuge in mission stations like Elim. The Mission is best visited on a day-drive if you are exploring the area or visiting several good wine farms in the area – all on unpaved roads.

The shallow seas, so treacherous for vessels, provide Arniston with safe swimming waters. You can swim next to the slipway or at Roman Beach, the main swimming beach, just along the coast as you head south from the harbour.

Kassiesbaai

A principal attraction of Arniston is Kassiesbaai, a district of starkly beautiful, limewashed cottages, now declared a National Monument and home to fishing families who have for generations made their living here. But Kassiesbaai sits a little uneasily as a living community, as it’s also a bit of a theme park for visitors stalking the streets with their cameras. Heading north through Kassiesbaai at low tide, you can walk 5km along an unspoilt beach unmarred by buildings until you reach an unassuming fence – resist the temptation to climb over this, as it marks the boundary of the local testing range for military material and missiles.

Arniston Caves

Heading south of the harbour for 1500m along spectacular cliffs, you’ll reach the vast cave after which the town is named. The walk is worth doing simply for the fynbos-covered dunes you’ll cross on the way. From the car park right by the cave, it’s a short signposted walk down to the dunes and the cave, which can only be reached at low tide. The rocks can be slippery and have sharp sections, so be sure to wear shoes with tough soles and a good grip.

Arrival and Information: Arniston

By car From Cape Town (225km), take the N2 to Caledon (115km), then the R316 to Bredasdorp, continuing along the R316 afterwards for 25km to Arniston.

By taxi There is no public transport to Arniston, though you can try the daily door-to-door taxi service run by Mrs Johannes from Cape Town (082 691 9075, R400).

Tourist office There is no tourist office in Arniston, but the one in Agulhas covers the area.

Accommodation

There is holiday accommodation in the new section of town, adjacent to the traditional fishing village quarter of Kassiesbaai. You won’t find pumping nightlife or adrenaline-packed attractions here, only azure sea, and peace and quiet.

Arniston Lodge 23 Main Rd 028 445 9175, arnistonlodge.co.za. In the residential area, this B&B offers four rooms in a two-storey thatched home with a pool. The upstairs rooms have views and better bathrooms than those downstairs. R1300

Arniston Seaside Cottages Huxham St, signposted as you arrive from Bredasdorp 028 445 9772, arnistonseasidecottages.co.za. A series of attractive and modern self-catering establishments built in the style of traditional fisherman’s cottages with limewashed walls and thatched roofs. Clean and bright, they’re in a good position just a few minutes’ walk from the beach and come fully equipped. R760

Arniston Spa Hotel Beach Rd 028 445 9000, arnistonhotel.com. Dominating the seafront, this luxurious spa hotel boasts every comfort, including a spa with massage and beauty treatments. The best rooms have a fireplace, or a balcony with sea views. If it’s way out of your budget, go during the week or in winter when prices drop. It is one of the best-set beach hotels in the country, and the only one in town. R2550

Eating and drinking

Arniston Hotel Beach Rd. Pleasing fresh fish dinners (R140), with outdoor seating to take in the sea views. It also holds the town’s only bistro bar, which serves burgers and the like and has sport on TV. Daily 10am–9.30pm.

Willeen’s Meals Arts and Crafts House C26, Kassiesbaai 028 445 9995. An authentic fisherman’s cottage where you’ll be served traditional Cape Malay meals by family members. You can try bobotie (R60) or fried fish. They have a BYO booze policy, though soft drinks are available. You can also just have tea and something sweet in the garden that boasts sea views. Daily 9am–9pm.

from top southern right whales, mother and calf; sand dunes in de hoop nature reserve

De Hoop Nature Reserve

Daily 7am–6pm • R40

De Hoop is the wilderness highlight of the Western Cape and one of the best places in the world for land-based whale-watching. July to October is the best time for this, with the highest number of whales in August and September, but you stand a very good chance of a sighting from June through to November. There’s no need to take a boat or use binoculars – in season you’ll see whales blowing, breaching – leaping clear of the water – or perhaps slapping a giant tail. Although the reserve could technically be done as a day-trip from Agulhas, Arniston or Swellendam, you’ll find it far more rewarding to come here for a night or more. The Whale Trail hike is one of South Africa’s best walks and is among the finest wildlife experiences in the world.

The breathtaking coastline is edged by bleached sand dunes standing 90m high in places, and rocky formations that at one point open to the sea in a massive craggy arch. The flora and fauna are impressive, too, encompassing 86 species of mammal, 260 different birds and 1500 varieties of plants. Inland, rare Cape mountain zebra, bontebok and other antelope congregate on a plain near the reserve accommodation.

arrival and departure: De Hoop nature reserve

By car De Hoop is signposted off the N2, 13km west of Swellendam, the quickest route from Cape Town. Alternatively, if you are in the Overberg, take the signposted dirt road that spurs off the R319 as it heads out of Bredasdorp, 50km to its west.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

There are a couple of places to stay outside of the park, but accommodation within the National Park is only available through the De Hoop Collection (dehoopcollection.co.za), and varies from camping to luxurious cottages. The accommodation and restaurant are some 20min drive on roughish dirt roads, from the sea.

There are no food supplies at De Hoop, except for a small shop selling basics, so be sure to stock up with everything you need before you arrive, in Swellendam or Bredasdorp.

De Hoop Cottages De Hoop Nature Reserve 021 422 4522, dehoopcollection.co.za. You’ll find an array of accommodation here, none of them especially cheap, but all appealing and comfortable. At the top end, you can enjoy a bed and breakfast stay, with dinner included, in the converted manor house, eating at the restaurant next door. Camping is the cheapest way to visit the reserve, and there are also a number of appealing self-catering properties of varying sizes from basic rondavels with outdoor showers and views to a fully equipped cottage. Camping R375, rondavels R1050, cottage R1600, manor house R3000

Fig Tree On the reserve, close to reception 028 542 1254. De Hoop’s only restaurant uses local ingredients complementing the Elim wines, with good-value set-menu dinners, often including fish (R275), plus a children’s menu. Reservations are required. Picnic baskets can be ordered (R275 for two) and there is a lovely spot outside that’s perfect for sundowners after a good day at the beach. Daily 8–11am, noon–3pm & 7–9pm.

Verfheuwel Farm Potberg Road, in the direction of Malgas 028 542 1038 or 082 767 0148, verfheuwelguestfarm.co.za. This cottage accom­modation, attached to the main farmhouse, is run by hospitable Afrikaner farming folk who can bring dinner to your cottage if you ask in advance. It sleeps a couple, with beds in the living area for children. The garden is beautiful and has a swimming pool. If Verfheuwel is full, owner Matti can direct you to other friends and relatives in the area who have farm accommodation. R850

The Overberg Interior

Just off the N2, Caledon merits a quick visit for its refreshing hot springs, while a few towns are worth visiting for a night or two. Closer to Cape Town, Greyton makes a perfect weekend break, with enough good food, walks and lounging in garden cafés to occupy you for a couple of nights. Nearby, South Africa’s oldest mission station, Genadendal, 6km west of Greyton, is also worth a look around. Swellendam, further along the N2, is often treated as the first night stop along the Garden Route, but makes a good base for visiting De Hoop Nature Reserve, or to see some antelope and ostriches in the Bontebok National Park, a few kilometres away.

on the Whale Trail

Only moderately difficult, the five-day, four-night, self-guided Whale Trail (021 483 0190, capenature.co.za) is one of South Africa’s most desirable hikes and follows a spectacularly beautiful 55km route from the Potberg Mountains along the deserted coast to Koppie Alleen. To walk in whale season, however, you’ll need to book a year in advance and take any date offered. Bookings are for a minimum of six and maximum of twelve people (with no children under 8), and you pay for six even if there are just two of you. Prices are about R2100 per person and include porterage of your supplies, clothes and bedding to each night’s accommodation – comfortable cottages, each in splendid isolation. For the duration of the trail you see only your own group, and no other people or signs of habitation at all.

Greyton

GREYTON, a tranquil village 46km north of Caledon, is a favourite weekend destination for Capetonians. Based around a core of Georgian and Victorian buildings, shaded by grand old oaks and tucked away at the edge of the Riviersonderend (meaning “river with no end”) Mountains, it is a great place to unwind, stroll and potter about the handful of galleries, antique shops and cafés, with good accommodation and excellent food on offer. It also boasts some lovely walks, most notably the superb Boesmanskloof Traverse trail, which crosses the mountains to a point 14km from McGregor, as well as several shorter walks in the reserve at the northern end of town, where you can find King Proteas and a rich diversity of Cape flowers and plants.

Arrival and information: Greyton

By car Greyton is 145km from Cape Town. The best route is to take the signposted, sealed road R406 from the N2, just west of Caledon and 105km from Cape Town. Follow the R406 for 30km – ignore any other signs to Greyton on the N2 as they are for unsealed, difficult roads. Allow 2–2hr 30min for the journey.

Tourist office 29 Main St, along the main road as you come into town (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; 028 254 9414, greytontourism.com).

Caledon Spa

The thermal springs at Caledon Spa (Tues–Sun 10am–7pm; R150; 028 214 5100, tsogosun.com/caledon_spa) make a fun day-trip out of Cape Town (111km away), or a restorative stop off the N2. The natural, hot, brown water that flows through the spa offers a wonderfully relaxing and rejuvenating experience, with a number of pools to loll in, including a number of waterfall pools that offer lovely views over the surrounding farmlands. A sauna and steam room are included in the price, but you’ll need to bring your own towels. It can be a bit crowded over weekends, when it gets a bit grubby, but at other times you will often have the pools to yourself.

Accommodation

Definitely stay somewhere with a fireplace if you’re here in winter, as it can be cold in this mountainous terrain, and conversely look for a pool or shady gardens in summer. Greyton is awash with self-catering cottages, of which the tourism office has lists and pictures.

Anna’s Cottages 1 Market St 084 764 6012, greyton-accommodation.com. A treehouse with an oak tree growing though it, complete with bath, and three lovely self-catering garden cottages, all attractively and eclectically furnished. Mark Cottage is a large space with two double bed alcoves, indoor and outdoor cooking facilities, fairy lights and fireplaces. There is a requirement of a minimum stay of two nights. Cottage R800, treehouse R1400

High Hopes 89 Main Rd 028 254 9898, www.highhopes.co.za. One of the best B&Bs in town, in a beautiful country-style retreat centre, set in large gardens with a swimming pool. Besides four rooms, there’s a self-contained unit with a kitchen, which can be taken on a B&B or self-catering basis. They have a variety of therapies, including massage, on offer. There are substantial midweek discounts. R1800

Eating

The town has a short, unmissable Saturday market at the corner of Main Road and Cross Market Street, opposite the church (10am–noon), to which locals bring their produce: organic vegetables, fabulous and well-priced cheeses, decadent cakes, breads, biscuits and preserves.

Abbey Rose Main Rd 028 254 9470. A nice garden and streetside setting, with the delightful rose garden that the name suggests, and hearty but uncomplicated food; try the oxtail stew (R150) and the malva pudding (R40). Wed 6–10pm, Thurs–Sat 11.30am–3pm & 6–10pm, Sun 11.30am–3pm.

Oak and Vigne Café DS Botha St 028 254 9037. An extremely popular restaurant situated in an old cottage with an oak-shaded terrace. Fresh bread and croissants are baked daily, plus cooked breakfasts (R50) and good cocktails, such as the Greyton Mule (vodka, ginger beer and lime; R40), though service can be slow. Daily 8am–5pm.

Peccadillo’s 23 Main Rd 028 254 9066. With the reputation for the best fine dining in town, Peccadillo’s serves up food with a strong Mediterranean influence; try the local trout dishes, pork belly or wood-fired pizza (R100). A good place to try boutique wines. Book ahead. Mon & Thurs–Sun noon–3pm & 6–10pm.

Genadendal

GENADENDAL, 6km from Greyton, was founded in 1737 by Moravians. The village’s focus is around Church Square, dominated by a very Germanic church building constructed in 1891. The old bell outside dates back to the eighteenth century, when it became the centre of a row between the local farmers and the mission station. The argument broke out when missionary Georg Schmidt annoyed the local white farmers by forming a small Christian congregation with impoverished Khoi and giving refuge to maltreated labourers from local farms. The farmers were enraged that while they, white Christians, were illiterate, Schmidt was teaching native people, whom they considered uncivilized, to read and write. The Dutch Reformed Church, under the control of the Dutch East India Company, waded in when Schmidt began baptizing converts, and prohibited the mission from ringing the bell, which called the faithful to prayer.

In 1838 Genadendal established the first teacher training college in the country, which the government closed in 1926, on the grounds that coloured people didn’t need tertiary education and should be employed as workers on local farms – a policy that effectively ground the community into poverty. In 1995, in recognition of the mission’s role in offering education, Nelson Mandela renamed his official residence in Cape Town “Genadendal”.

Today, the population of this principally coloured town numbers around four thousand people, adhering to a variety of Christian sects – no longer just Moravianism. The Mission Museum adjacent to Church Square (Mon–Thurs 9am–1pm & 2–5pm, Fri 9am–3.30pm, Sat 9am–noon; free) is moderately interesting, as is a wander through the town, down to the rural graveyard, which is spiked with old tombstones.

Swellendam and around

SWELLENDAM is an attractive historic town at the foot of the Langeberg, 97km east of Caledon. With one of South Africa’s best country museums, it’s a congenial stop along the N2 between Cape Town and the Garden Route. With its good accommodation and its position – poised between the coastal De Hoop Nature Reserve and the Langeberg – it’s a suitable base for spending a day or two exploring this part of the Overberg, with the Bontebok National Park, the stomping ground of an attractive type of antelope, to the south.

South Africa’s third-oldest white settlement, Swellendam was established in 1745 by Baron Gustav van Imhoff, a visiting Dutch East India Company bigwig. He was deeply concerned about the “moral degeneration” of burghers who were trekking further from Cape Town and out of Company control. Of no less concern to the baron was the loss of revenue from these “vagabonds”, who were neglecting to pay the company for the right to hold land and were fiddling their annual tax returns. Following a brief hiccup in 1795, when burghers declared a “free republic” (quickly extinguished when Britain occupied the Cape), the town grew into a prosperous rural centre known for its wagon-making, and for being the last “civilized” port of call for trekboers heading out into the interior. The income generated from this helped build Swellendam’s gracious homes, many of which were destroyed in the fire of 1865.

The town is built along a very long main road with no traffic lights; it’s most attractive at either end, with a mundane shopping area in the middle. The eastern end is dominated by the museum complex and tourist information, and is nearest to the mountain reserve for hiking or horseriding.

horseriding

Good horseriding is possible in the mountains and forests at the eastern edge of town in the Marloth Nature Reserve. Two Feathers Horse Trails (082 494 8279, swellendambackpackers.co.za) offers short trips for all levels (R400), and two hours for experienced riders only (R600).

Oefeningshuis

36 Voortrek St

The only building in the centre to survive the town’s 1865 fire is the Cape Dutch-style Oefeningshuis, which now houses the tourist office. Built in 1838, it was first used as a place for religious activity, then as a school for freed slaves, and has surreal-looking clocks with frozen hands carved into either gable end.

Dutch Reformed Church

11 Voortrek St

The unmissable Dutch Reformed Church, dating from 1910, incorporates Gothic windows, a Baroque spire, Renaissance portico elements and Cape Dutch gables into a wedding cake of a building that agreeably holds its own, against the odds, and certainly still draws a good crowd on Sundays.

Drostdy Museum

18 Swellengrebel St • Mon–Fri 9am–4.45pm, Sat & Sun 10am–2.45pm • R25

On the east side of town, a short way from the centre, is the excellent Drostdy Museum. It’s a collection of historic buildings arranged around large grounds, with a lovely nineteenth-century Cape garden. The centrepiece is the drostdy itself, built in 1747 as the seat of the landdrost, a magistrate-cum-commissioner sent out by the Dutch East India Company to control the outer reaches of its territory. The building conforms to the beautiful limewashed, thatched and shuttered Cape Dutch style of the eighteenth century, but the furnishings are of nineteenth-century vintage. From the rear garden of the drostdy you can stroll along a path and across Drostdy Street to Mayville, a middle-class Victorian homestead from the mid-nineteenth century with an old rose garden.

Arrival and information: SWELLENDAM AND AROUND

By car Swellendam is 220km from Cape Town, on the N2, about 3hr drive, and 533km from Port Elizabeth, another 7hr drive up the Garden Route.

By bus Coaches, including the Baz Bus, run between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth via Swellendam, dropping off at the Swellengrebel Hotel, in the centre of town.

Tourist office 22 Swellengrebel St, in one of the Drostdy Museum buildings (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–2pm; 028 514 2770, capetraderoute.co.za).

Accommodation

Anyone who enjoys the atmosphere of historic houses will be spoilt for choice in Swellendam, where places to stay in Cape Dutch and Georgian houses are ten a penny, and rates tend to be pretty reasonable.

Augusta de Mist 3 Human St 028 514 2425, augustademist.com. A two-hundred-year-old home­stead with beautifully renovated cottages and garden suites. Most of the accommodation comes with fireplaces and all have percale linen, and are altogether luxurious and stylish. A rambling terraced garden and a pool complete the picture. There is a great restaurant on site, but you need to book their dinner in advance. R2000

Cypress Cottage 3 Voortrek St 028 514 3296, cypress-cottage.co.za. The seven charming rooms here are great value, decorated with antiques in the back garden of a grand house. The house is one of the oldest in town and the friendly owner is a brilliant gardener. R900

Eenuurkop Huisie 8km from town on the Ashton Rd 028 514 1447, eenuurkop.co.za. Two self-catering cottages, one with three bedrooms, the other with one, in a stunning setting with great views and access to mountain walks, with a dam on the farm to swim in. R800

Hermitage Huisies 3km from town on R60 to Ashton 028 514 2308 or 082 380 2080, wildebraam.co.za. These four restored labourers’ self-catering cottages are on a berry farm, with a duck pond and grazing sheep and horses. They sleep two to five people, and are ideal for families. There’s also a swimming pool with mountain views. On the farm next door, Wildebraam, there is berry picking in November and December, jams to taste and a liquor-tasting cellar all year round. R800

Swellendam Backpackers 5 Lichtenstein St 028 514 2648 or 082 494 8279, swellendambackpackers.co.za. Swellendam’s only hostel is well situated near the Marloth Nature Reserve, and close to the Drostdy Museum, with a large campsite, and decent twins and doubles. No dorms, so if you are on your own, you can have the pleasure of a room to yourself. Friendly staff can arrange activities including horseriding and hiking permits for Marloth. Children are welcome and anyone wanting to get out into nature. Camping R130, doubles R550

Swellendam Country Lodge 237 Voortrek St 028 514 3629, swellendamlodge.com. Six garden rooms with separate entrances, reed ceilings and elegant, uncluttered decor in muted hues. There’s a veranda, which is perfect for summer days, as well as a swimming pool and well-kept garden. R1300

Eating

De Companjie 5 Voortrek St 083 399 0299. Set in a most pleasing historic building that also functions as a lovely guesthouse. It offers good teatime eats and hearty dinners. They are best known for steaks (R160) and venison dishes. Mon, Tues, Thurs & Sun 4–10pm.

La Belle Alliance 1 Swellengrebel St 028 514 2924. Conveniently located just off the N2, near the Drostdy Museum, with a very restful garden setting and outdoor seating next to the river. It is ideal if you are simply passing through Swellendam and want uncomplicated, but tasty food, such as a Ploughman’s Platter (R85), or fish with a salad (R110). Daily 8am–5pm.

La Sosta 145 Voortrek St 028 514 1470. One of the top restaurants in the Western Cape, this rather elegant establishment needs advance booking. They serve contemporary Italian food and there are three set menus: one catering for fish eaters (R450), the second for carnivores and the third, appropriately named Garden, for vegetarians (R350). Tues–Sat 6.30–10pm.

The Old Gaol Coffee Shop Church Square, 8A Voortrek St 028 514 3847. A good place where you can get milk tart in a copper pan and roosterkoek, traditional bread made on an open fire, with nice fillings (R70). A great choice for kids, with an outdoor play area, though it is favoured by tour buses. Mon, Tues, Sat & Sun 8.30am–5pm, Wed–Fri 7.30am–10pm.

Woodpecker Deli 270 Voortrek St 028 514 2924. Casual and reasonably priced restaurant serving pizza, pasta, soups and burgers. A good choice if you are in town for one night and just want something simple. Mon–Sat 11.30am–9pm, Sun 11.30am–5pm.

Bontebok National Park

6km south of Swellendam • Daily: May–Sept 7am–7pm; Oct–June 7am–6pm • R100 • 028 514 2735

Set along the Breede River, Bontebok National Park is a compact, 28-square-kilometre reserve at the foot of the Langeberg range that makes a relaxing overnight stop between Cape Town and the Garden Route. The park was established in 1931 to save the Cape’s dwindling population of bontebok, an attractive antelope with distinctive brown and white markings. By 1930, hunting had reduced the number of bontebok in the Cape to a mere thirty. Their survival has been secured and there are now three hundred of them in the park, as well as populations in other reserves in the province. There are no big cats in the park, but mammals you might encounter include rare Cape mountain zebra, red hartebeest and grey rhebok, and there are more than 120 bird species. It’s also a rich environment for fynbos, with nearly five hundred species here, including erica, gladioli and proteas. Apart from wildlife viewing, you can swim in the Breede River, hike a couple of short nature trails and fish.

Accommodation: bontebok national park

Bontebok National Park 028 514 2735, sanparks.org. Self-catering accommodation is available in ten, fully equipped chalets; the best have river views. There is also a campsite with very clean washing facilities – the sites without their own electricity supply are cheaper. Stock up on supplies in Swellendam beforehand. Camping R245, chalet R1100

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