One of the most rewarding journeys in the Western Cape – an inland counterpart to the Garden Route – is the mountain route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, which is largely along the R62 and thus is often referred to as Route 62. Nowhere near as well known as the coastal journey, this trip takes you through some of the most dramatic passes and poorts (valley routes) in the country and crosses a frontier of dorps (villages) and drylands. This “back garden” is in many respects more rewarding than the actual Garden Route, being far less developed, with spectacular landscapes and quieter roads. It also has some of the nicest small towns in South Africa to visit, with characterful guesthouses and restaurants, bearing only a patina of tourism.
With no scheduled public transport, apart from intercity buses between Oudtshoorn and Cape Town, this is a journey best done by car – minibus taxis are available in some destinations but run on demand and cannot be organized much in advance. Though it’s easily possible to drive to Oudtshoorn from Cape Town in a day, it’s worth breaking up your journey to explore the pretty towns of McGregor, Montagu and Barrydale. Continuing east from Barrydale, the R62 landscape becomes more sparse as you get into the Little Karoo (or Klein Karoo), a vast, khaki-coloured hinterland (the name is a Khoi word meaning “hard and dry”) with low, wiry scrub and dotted with flat-topped hills. One unsung surprise along the way is Calitzdorp, a rustic little dorp, five hours’ solid driving from Cape Town, down whose backstreets a few unassuming wine farms produce some of South Africa’s best port, with some first-rate guest houses. Staying here may be a lot more satisfying then Oudtshoorn itself, which is a lot busier.
By contrast, the well-trumpeted attractions of Oudtshoorn, half an hour further on, are the ostrich farms and the massive Cango Caves, one of the country’s biggest tourist draws. Less than 70km from the coast, with good transport connections, Oudtshoorn marks the convergence of the mountain and coastal roads and is usually treated as a leisurely day-trip away from the Garden Route. From Oudtshoorn, over the most dramatic of all passes in the Cape – the unpaved Swartberg Pass, 27km of spectacular switchbacks and zigzags through the Swartberg Mountains – is Prince Albert, a favourite Karoo village whose spartan beauty and remarkable light make it popular with artists.
WORCESTER, the large functional hub of the region, is on the N1 just 110km from Cape Town, and worth a stop if you are interested in Cape flora. Worcester is an agricultural centre at the heart of a wine-making region, consisting mostly of co-operatives producing bulk plonk, and for most travellers it marks the place to buy petrol and deviate from the N1 onto the scenic R62. However, it’s worth considering stopping for a break and a cup of tea at the peaceful botanic gardens. An interesting piece of local knowledge is that J.M. Coetzee, South Africa’s most internationally acclaimed writer, grew up here, though nothing yet in the town makes mention of its famous son.
108 Roux Rd • Gardens: daily 7am–7pm; restaurant: Mon–Sat 8.30am–9pm, Sun 8.30am–4pm • R25 • 023 347 0785,
sanbi.org
As you enter Worcester from Cape Town, signs point to the Karoo Botanic Gardens, a sister reserve to Kirstenbosch in Cape Town, known for its show of indigenous spring flowers and succulents. The pleasant restaurant here, which serves light meals, looks out over the gardens and the distant mountains. The best time to visit the gardens is from late July to early September when all the flowers people travel to see in Namaqualand bloom here in a profusion of purples, oranges and yellows. Three hiking trails meander through large wild areas, full of desert plants and prickly blooms, and in the winter, snow caps the dramatic backdrop of the Hex River mountain range.
McGREGOR is an attractive small village, with whitewashed cottages that sparkle in the summer daylight amid the low scrub, vines and olive trees. Its quiet, relaxed atmosphere has attracted a small population of spiritual seekers and artists, and residents are urged to build in harmony with existing style and thus maintain the town’s character. It makes a great weekend break from Cape Town, with a couple of first-rate restaurants, plenty of well-priced accommodation and a beautiful retreat centre with reasonably priced massages and other body-work. Spending a day wine tasting around McGregor and its environs is another drawing card, as long as it’s not a Sunday when almost everything is closed.
McGregor gained modest prosperity in the nineteenth century by becoming a centre of the whipstock industry, supplying wagoners and transport riders with long bamboo sticks for goading oxen. There aren’t too many ox-drawn wagons today, and tourism, though developing, is still quite limited. One reason people come here is to walk the Boesmanskloof Traverse, which starts 14km from McGregor and crosses to Greyton on the other side of the mountain. From McGregor you can walk a section of the trail, hiking to the main waterfall and back to the trailhead, which is a three- to four-hour round hike of exceeding beauty through the river gorge, or kloof in Afrikaans.
By car McGregor, 180km from Cape Town and 15min to the south of Robertson, is at the end of a minor road signposted off the R60. Don’t be tempted by an approach from the south which may look like a handy back route – you’d need a 4WD for this. Allow 2hr 30min for the drive from Cape Town along the N1, turning onto the R62 at Worcester for Robertson.
Tourist office Voortrekker St (Mon–Sat 9am–1pm & 2–4.30pm, Sun 9am–1pm; 023 625 1954,
tourismmcgregor.co.za). The office can book accommodation and issue permits for walking the whole Boesmanskloof Traverse or simply for the waterfall section (R40). They will also direct you to artists’ studios in town, and to complementary health practitioners offering massage and yoga, and give you the times of the daily meditation sessions at the Temenos Country Retreat.
Green Gables Country Inn 7 Smith St 023 625 1626,
greengablesmcgregor.co.za. Country accommodation at the edge of the village, with a swimming pool, an English-style pub and a restaurant open three nights a week. The decor is cosy, if slightly cluttered, and the service is warm and personal; rates are very reasonable for what you get. R900
McGregor Backpackers Bree St 083 206 8007,
mcgregorbackpackers.co.za. Comfortable, homely accommodation in a variety of room types catering for couples or groups. There’s only room for twenty-five guests so the place is quiet enough. R500
The Old Village Lodge Voortrekker St 023 625 1692,
oldvillagelodge.co.za. Upmarket B&B in a Victorian cottage on the main road, with a pretty garden, swimming pool and rooms furnished in an elegant and comfortable country style. R1300
Rhebokskraal Farm Cottages 2km south of town 082 896 0429,
rhebokskraalolives.co.za. Secluded cottages, each on a different part of this beautiful fruit, olive and grape farm, which is within easy reach of the restaurants in town. R700
Tanagra Guest Wine Farm 4.5km northeast of McGregor, towards Robertson
023 625 1780,
tanagra-wines.co.za. Idyllic wine farm with stylish, light and airy cottages, all with private verandas and mountain views. One cottage is totally off-the-grid, with a private plunge pool, hammocks and a fireplace. There are walking trails on the farm itself or on the adjoining Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve. It is fully equipped for self-catering. R900
Temenos Country Retreat Cnr of Bree and Voortrekker sts
023 625 1871,
temenos.org.za. Retreat centre with cottages dotted about beautiful gardens and walkways, a swimming pool, library and meditation spaces. Breakfast is included and it’s safe and peaceful – an ideal place for solo women travellers. R815
Whipstock Farm 7km southwest of McGregor, towards Boesmanskloof 073 042 3919,
whipstock.co.za. Farm accommodation in a Victorian house with five cottages, each with whitewashed walls, wooden beams, fridges and tea-making facilities. Meals are served communally in a large dining room with a fireplace. It’s ideal for families who want a nature-based holiday; self-catering rates are also available. R560
Bemind Garagiste Wines 45 Voortrekker St 083 380 1648. A chance to try McGregor wines in a very relaxed atmosphere where you can chat to the winemaker Ilsa, who produces small quantities of Sauvignon Blanc, MCC Brut, Shiraz and Cinsault. The price of a bottle is reasonable (R90–R170). Wed–Fri 10am–5pm & Sat 10am–2pm.
Flora’s Eating House & Gallery 54 Voortrekker St 082 070 9004. Great for fresh and interesting breakfasts and lunches. You can sit on the front or back porch to savour home-made food, such as a Turkish-style breakfast, spicy lentil soup, free-range chicken dishes, vegan salads (R75) or bockwurst with mash. Delicious cakes, often gluten free. Booking essential. Mon 6–9pm, Thurs–Sun 9am–3pm.
Green Gables Country Inn 7 Smith St 023 625 1626,
greengablesmcgregor.co.za. Alfresco dinners on the terrace overlooking vineyards and the village, with a cosy dining room warmed with a fireplace in winter, plus a “village pub”. There are generally three well-cooked dishes on offer, such as chicken curry, fish and chips, and lamb shank (R115). The simplicity of the dishes belies their quality. Booking in advance. Wed & Fri–Sun 6–10pm.
Karoux Restaurant 42 Voortrekker St
023 625 1421. Award-winning gourmet food you wouldn’t expect to find in a sleepy village, such as pan-roasted duck breast with cauliflower puree, wilted baby spinach, confit lamb croquettes and free-range chicken liver parfait with truffled blueberry vinaigrette (R140). Booking essential. Wed–Sat 7–10pm & Sun noon–3pm.
Tebaldi’s at Temenos Cnr of Bree and Voortrekker sts 023 625 1871,
temenos.org.za. Fading a little alongside the upstart gourmet newcomers, but still reliable. Breakfasts and salad lunches served in a tranquil garden setting, or on the street-facing stoep. Tues & Sun 9.30am–3.30pm, Wed–Sat 9.30am–3.30pm & 7–9.30pm.
Some 190km from Cape Town, and 47km from McGregor, is MONTAGU, the centre of a major peach- and apricot-growing region whose soaring mountains with twisted red and ochre strata dominate the town with its pleasing Victorian architecture.
The town was named in 1851 after John Montagu, the visionary British Secretary of the Cape, who realized that the colony would never develop without decent communications and was responsible for commissioning the first mountain passes connecting remote areas to Cape Town. Montagu is best known for its hot springs, but serious rock climbers come for its cliff faces, which are regarded as among the country’s most challenging. You can also explore the mountains on a couple of trails or, easiest of all, on a tractor ride onto one of the peaks. Montagu is also conveniently positioned for excursions along both the Robertson and Little Karoo wine routes.
Highly photogenic, Montagu is ideal for exploring on foot. As you wander around you can take in the interesting buildings or simply enjoy the setting, with the Langeberg Mountains, valleys and farms.
41 Long St • Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–noon • R10
The best thing about the Montagu Museum, housed in a pleasant old church, is its herbal project, which traces traditional Khoisan knowledge about the medicinal properties of local plants. Note the peach pips embedded in the floor, to give texture, and the peach kernels used to create the driveway, both of which are typical in these fruit-growing parts.
3km northwest of Montagu on the R318 • Daily 8am–11pm • R100 • montagusprings.co.za
Montagu’s best known attraction, the Montagu Springs Resort is home to several chlorinated open-air pools of different temperatures and a couple of Jacuzzis, spectacularly situated at the foot of the cliffs – an effect slightly spoilt by the neon lights of a hotel complex and fast-food restaurant. It’s a nice place to take kids, but the weekends become a mass of splashing bodies: if you want a quiet time, go first thing in the morning or last thing at night. The temperatures in winter are not hot enough to be entirely comfortable, when you’re better off heading to the springs at Caledon or Warmwaterberg, which are much hotter, and in many respects preferable.
By car Montagu is 190km from Cape Town; take the N1 as far as Worcester and then head southeast on the R60. The journey from Worcester (roughly 60km) takes you through Robertson and Ashton.
By minibus Danie (072 750 3125) runs a very reasonably priced on-demand shuttle service (R170) between Montagu and Cape Town, but you will need to be flexible about time of departure and arrival, as well as the number of stops.
Tourist office 24 Bath St (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9.30am–2pm; 023 614 2471,
montagu-ashton.info).
Aasvoelkrans 1 Van Riebeeck St
023 614 1228,
aasvoelkrans.co.za. Set in a pretty part of town, these four exceptionally imaginative garden rooms are housed in a guesthouse situated on a farm with competition Arab horses grazing in the fields. There is also a two-bedroomed self-catering cottage suitable for a family or larger group. Cottage R900, doubles R1000
De Bos Guest Farm 8 Brown St 023 614 2532,
debos.co.za. Camping (in lovely shady sites), dorms and basic doubles on a farm at the western edge of town, close to the spectacular, twisted mountain slopes. The farm often accommodates rock climbers who bring their own kit to tackle climbs in the area, but you don’t have to be a rock climber to enjoy staying here – there are also hikes on the doorstep. Camping R80, dorms R130, doubles R900
Montagu Rose Guest House 19 Kohler St 023 614 2681,
montagurose.co.za. All of the rooms in this well-run, modern guesthouse, decorated with plenty of paintings and knicknacks, have baths and mountain views; one is wheelchair-friendly, and there is a family room for four. R800
Montagu Springs Signposted off the R62, west of town 023 614 1050,
montagusprings.co.za. Large resort with fully equipped self-catering chalets, some more luxurious than others, sleeping four. It is especially suitable for families as children will love the pools and playing areas. Prices go down by roughly a third during the week. R1300
Squirrel’s Corner Cnr of Bloem and Jouberts sts 023 614 1081,
squirrelscorner.co.za. A reasonably priced B&B situated two blocks from the main road, with four comfortable, spotless en-suite rooms in the main house, as well as an African-themed garden suite. You will be greeted with a glass of Montagu muscadel on arrival. R970
The farm stalls as you drive through Montagu on the R62 are worth stopping at for nibbles and local produce, and there are several appealing cafés to choose from on Long Street. In summer, bags of peaches and apricots are often sold from backyards or along the roadside, for next to nothing. On Saturday mornings, don’t miss the local farmers’ market at the church, where you can get olives and olive oil, bread, cheese, almonds and dried fruit from the surrounding farms – all of which are exceptionally well priced. All restaurants need to be booked ahead for dinner.
Die Stal 8km out of town on the R318 082 324 4318. A thoroughly pleasant venue on a farm, serving breakfast, lunches and tea. A good destination if you want to see something of the surrounding orchards and farmlands. A hearty favourite is the lamb rump (R130), while vegetarians can opt for the ploughman’s platter (R85). Tues–Sun 9am–5pm.
Ma Cuisine Mimosa Lodge, 19 Church St 023 614 235. Reserve a candle-lit table for a memorable dinner along the R62, in a posh guesthouse. Expect to dine on South African dishes with a French influence, such as Karoo lamb with muscadel and thyme jus. Vegetarians are also catered for, with good and fresh ingredients. There’s a four-course set menu for R500, which costs R670 with wine. Daily 6–9pm.
Mystic Tin 38 Bath St 082 572 0738,
themystictin.co.za. Tablecloths, candlelight and a winter fireplace create a cosy atmosphere to enjoy South African specialities done with flair. The ostrich fillet is worth a try (R110) and there are a couple of appealing vegetarian options, all accompanied by hand-crafted beers brewed in their Karoo microbrewery. Mon–Sat 5–9.30pm.
Simply Delicious Restaurant Four Oaks, 46 Long St 023 614 3483,
four-oaks.co.za. A good choice for a light lunch or dinner, set in a handsome 1860 thatched house with a shady courtyard. Dishes include steak with seasonal vegetables (R125) and various wraps and salads. Summer daily 12.30–2.30pm & 7–9pm; winter Mon–Sat 12.30–2.30pm & 6.30–9pm.
BARRYDALE, 240km from Cape Town, is perfect for a couple of days of doing very little other than experiencing small-town life in the Little Karoo, visiting the hot springs at Warmwaterberg, picnicking along the Tradouw Pass and wine tasting. The village has a couple of excellent restaurants, some good, reasonably priced accommodation and a number of craft outlets. And the drive here, a 60km journey from Montagu, offers spectacular mountain scenery – as does the route from Swellendam via the Tradouw Pass. There’s a distinct rural feel about the place: a large vineyard is just off the main road, farm animals are kept on large plots of land behind dry-stone walling, and you’ll find fig, peach and quince trees thriving in the dryness.
Its arid beauty has attracted its fair share of artists, and every December, on the weekend closest to the December 16 public holiday, the Handspring Puppet Company, famous for War Horse, have an open-air show at the local school with a street parade of puppets, as part of their annual community project in Barrydale.
The striking semi-desert landscape of the massive Sanbona Wildlife Reserve (021 010 0028,
sanbona.com) is a luxurious option for time-strapped visitors set on seeing some big game, who can’t make it to Kruger National Park. Twenty kilometres west of Barrydale, the reserve offers three ultra luxurious all-inclusive lodges, as well as a walking and camping option. Of the lodges, Dwyka Tented Lodge is closer to where most of the wildlife is to be found and has the more spectacular setting, though to get closer to nature opt for the Explorer Camp – a walking and mobile camping option (R4612 per person). The prices include all your meals and accommodation, plus two game drives a day, but, owing to the vegetation and climate, there are far fewer animals able to be supported here compared with Kruger National Park. Having said that, it is the only place in the Western Cape with free-roaming lions and cheetahs and there’s a herd of elephants.
By car Allow 3–3hr 30min for the journey from Cape Town, either taking the N1 and R62, via Montagu, or the N2, and cutting inland on the R324 just east of Swellendam for the lovely drive through Suurbraak and the Tradouw Pass. Both routes are equally recommended for the scenery and ease of travel.
Tourist office There’s a tiny visitor information centre (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 9am–2pm; 028 572 1572,
barrydale@swellendamtourism.co.za) on the R62, in the strip of shops and restaurants, closest to Diesel and Cream Diner. They can also help with finding accommodation.
Services There’s a supermarket on the main drag, van Riebeeck Street, which houses an ATM and post office.
Inkaroo Cottage 2 Bain St, close to Clarke of the Karoo 028 572 1344. Beautifully restored and furnished in a contemporary style, this typical Karoo farmhouse cottage sleeps up to six people on a self-catering basis. It has dry stone walling and seating at the back of the house under vines, and a full kitchen and living room, with sunset views onto the mountains. R800
Tradouw Guest House 46 van Riebeeck St
028 572 1434,
tradouwguesthouse.co.za. One of the best places to stay along the R62 is Leon and Denis’ friendly Tradouw Guest House. The simple rooms have thick white cotton sheets and blankets, and feature sash windows – four of these rooms open out onto the courtyard, while two open onto the large garden. In the winter there’s a roaring fire in the lounge, while in the summer guests can enjoy breakfast in the vine-shaded courtyard. The rates are reasonable, with breakfast an extra R100 per person. R700
from top feather palace, oudtshoorn; the cango caves; the swartberg pass
There’s a number of places to eat strung along the R62 – many of which are only open during the day and cater to the passing traffic. However, you will always find at least one restaurant open in the evening – it’s best to book in advance.
Clarke of the Karoo Mud Gallery, on R62 028 572 1017,
clarkeofthekaroo.co.za. A great option for hearty country food, with a starter provided on the house. Their Karoo lamb burgers or curry and roti are recommended, and this is the most restful place to stop for a meal, if you are swinging through Barrydale, with pleasant dry-stone walled courtyard seating. They also serve dinner on Wednesday nights (R130 for two courses). Mon, Tues & Thurs–Sun 8am–4pm, Wed 8am–8pm.
Diesel and Creme Vintage Diner on R62 028 572 1008. The most popular stop along the R62, this place is always packed. The interior is a retro style, having been done up with junk to create the romance of Route 66 road trips. Their milkshakes are the thing to go for, and burgers the order of the day (R70). Daily 8am–5pm.
Mez Karoo Kitchen van Riebeeck St
082 077 5980. Outstanding and reasonably priced Mediterranean food and wine, served at the chef’s spacious home, including light tapas meals and their Greek lamb speciality (R140). The bright pink rose-water ice cream served with pistachios and fresh mint, or the honey and rose ice cream are memorable. Sitting in the garden on a summer’s evening is a delight. Book ahead and check the hours, which can vary a bit. Tues, Thurs–Sat 6–10pm, Sun 11am–2pm; closed in winter.
Barrydale Cellar 1 van Riebeeck St 028 572 1012. This is the place to enjoy handcrafted brandy, beer and ale tastings (two tastings for free, thereafter R30 per person). They have a lovely setting open to the river, and do a single offering at lunchtime, with delectable pizzas. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–3pm.
Barrydale has a couple of wine outlets that are worth a visit for tasting and buying, and there are a couple of browsable craft shops along the R62.
Magpie Studio 27 van Riebeeck St 028 572 1997,
magpieartcollective.com. This craft shop makes colourful light fittings and chandeliers from recycled materials; their most famous customer is Michelle Obama. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sun 9am–1pm.
Thirty kilometres east of Barrydale (just beyond Ronnie’s Sex Shop, a pub and well-known landmark in the middle of nowhere), is Warmwaterberg Spa (028 572 1609,
warmwaterbergspa.co.za), a Karoo farm blessed with natural hot water siphoned into two outdoor, unchlorinated hot pools and surrounded by lush green lawns and lofty palms. Primarily aimed at South Africans, it gets rather crowded and noisy during school holidays and over weekends, but is old-fashioned and lovely. The best time of day to enjoy the baths is after dark, when the steam rises into the cold, starry Karoo sky. The farm is attractively set, with mountain vistas to gaze at from the baths and fantastic birdlife drawn by this oasis in the deserty landscape.
Accommodation is basic, reasonably priced and all self-catering – in wooden cabins or rooms in the main farmhouse, each of which has an indoor spa bath (R750). There are also some campsites (R380 for two), a bar, and a restaurant serving dinners and breakfasts. Rates are lowered on weekdays and during the school term on all accommodation. If you are driving past, and want to have a swim, day-visitors pay R50 at the reception.
From Barrydale, vineyards and orchards give way to arid mountains and rocky, treeless plains vegetated with low, wiry scrub, making for a dramatic journey onwards, and another spectacular, twisting pass. OUDTSHOORN, 420km from Cape Town and 180km from Barrydale, has been called the “ostrich capital of the world” – the town’s surrounds are indeed crammed with ostrich farms, several of which you can visit, and the local souvenir shops keep busy dreaming up 1001 tacky ways to recycle ostrich parts as comestibles and souvenirs. But Oudtshoorn has two other big draws: it’s the best base for visiting the nearby Cango Caves, and the town is known for its winter sunshine, at a time when it can be raining on the Garden Route. It’s boiling hot in summer, though, so make sure you have access to a pool, and in winter the nights can be freezing.
Oudtshoorn’s town centre has little more than a couple of museums, which are worth visiting; the town’s main interest lies in its Victorian and Edwardian sandstone buildings, some of which are unusually grand and elegant for a Karoo dorp.
Oudtshoorn started out as a small village named in honour of Geesje Ernestina Johanna van Oudtshoorn, wife of the first civil commissioner for George. By the 1860s, ostriches, which live in the wild in Africa, were being raised under the ideal conditions of the Oudtshoorn Valley, where the warm climate and loamy soils enabled lucerne, the favourite diet of the flightless birds, to be grown. The quirky Victorian fashion for large feathers had turned the ostriches into a source of serious wealth, and by the 1880s hundreds of thousands of kilogrammes of feathers were being exported, and birds were changing hands for up to £1000 a pair – an unimaginable sum in those days. On the back of this boom, sharp businessmen made their fortunes, ignorant farmers were ripped off, and labourers drew the shortest straw of all. The latter were mostly coloured descendants of the Outeniqua and Attaqua Khoikhoi and trekboers, who received derisory wages supplemented by rations of food, wine, spirits and tobacco – a practice that still continues on some farms. In the early twentieth century, the most successful farmers and traders built themselves “feather palaces”, the ostentatious sandstone Edwardian buildings that have become the defining feature of Oudtshoorn.
Cnr of Baron van Reede and Voortrekker sts • Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm • R25
The C.P. Nel Museum is a good place to start exploring Oudtshoorn. A handsome sandstone building, it was built in 1906 as a boys’ school, but now houses an eccentric collection of items relating to ostriches. It’s worth a visit mainly for the story it tells of the town’s feather boom and decline, and the contrast between ostrich design items of the past – including gorgeous feather trimmings – compared to what you’ll see in the tacky ostrich shops today.
Cnr of Loop and High sts • Mon–Fri 9am–5pm • R25
Le Roux Town House is a perfectly preserved family townhouse, and the only way to get a glimpse inside one of the much-vaunted “feather palaces”. The family’s gracious, opulent style was enjoyed and appreciated by royalty and politicians alike during their visits here. The beautifully preserved furnishings were all imported from Europe between 1900 and 1920, and there is plenty to stroll around and admire, from the Art Nouveau glass panels inside to the corrugated iron verandas encircling the house.
7km from Oudtshoorn • Elephant interactions 8am–4pm • Free; elephant interactions R280 • 044 272 0106,
buffelsdrift.com
The Buffelsdrift Game Lodge, just out of town on the Cango Caves road, offers an exciting opportunity to get close to elephants. Book ahead for a really worthwhile experience where you get to stroke elephants under the guidance of their handlers, and watch them at training and play. From the lodge’s restaurant on the large dam, you are likely to see hippos, and may be lucky enough to see other animals coming to drink. There is safari-style accommodation too.
Just outside town on the Cango Rd • Daily 8.30am–5pm • R210 • 044 272 5593,
cango.co.za
The other wildlife activity around Oudtshoorn is Cango Wildlife Ranch. Guided tours lead you past white tigers and cheetahs, crocodiles and other creatures from other parts of Africa. The ranch offers a spectacle rather than authentic wildness, but it caters well for children who can frolic in water fountains or on climbing frames while you eat lunch.
Many people come to Oudtshoorn to see, or even ride, ostriches. You don’t actually have to visit one of the ostrich farms to view Africa’s biggest bird, as you’re bound to see flocks of them as you drive past farms in the vicinity or past truckloads of them on their way to the slaughterhouse (feathers being no longer fashionable, these days ostriches are raised for their low-cholesterol flesh). A number of show farms offer tours, which include the chance to sit on an ostrich (if you are under 70kg). Best of the bunch is Cango Ostrich Farm on the main road between Oudtshoorn and the Cango Caves, in the Schoemanshoek Valley, which runs tours every twenty minutes, where you can sit on a bird, stand on their unbreakable eggs and look at ostrich chicks (45min; R100; 044 272 4623,
cangoostrich.co.za).
By car Allow 6hr from Cape Town for the 420km journey along the R62. Alternatively, take the N2 to George along the Garden Route and cut inland to Oudtshoorn on the N12.
By bus Intercity buses pull in at Queens Mall, off Voortrekker St, across the river from the main road, Baron van Reede St. Intercape (intercape.co.za) has a daily service from Cape Town at 4.30pm, which takes 9hr, arriving at 1.30am. Their service to Cape Town leaves at 10.30pm and arrives at 6.30am. Greyhound does not travel via Oudtshoorn.
By minibus There are two local transport companies which offer door-to-door services, on demand, from Oudtshoorn to Cape Town along the R62 (R300). The journey takes most of the day as about fifteen people need to be collected, and then dropped at their destinations. Try Hilton de Villiers at Divvies Transport (082 841 0107 or
078 209 3866) or Gysman Transport (
044 272 0516 or
083 946 8862).
Tourist office The office at 80 Voortrekker Rd, in front of the library (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 9.30am–12.30pm; 044 279 2532,
oudtshoorn.com), is a good source of information about the caves and ostrich farms. They can also help find you local accommodation.
Activities Backpacker’s Paradise rents out bikes and arranges spectacular adventurous cycling trips down the Swartberg Pass, with motor vehicle back-up.
Oudtshoorn has a number of large hotels catering mainly to tour buses, plus plenty of good-quality B&Bs and guesthouses, a centrally located campsite with chalets, and one of the country’s best-run backpacker lodges. Some of the nicest places to stay are in the attractive countryside en route to the Cango Caves. Rates fall dramatically during the winter months following the week-long Klein Karoo Nasionale Kunstefees (KKNK; absakknk.co.za), a major arts festival, mostly in Afrikaans, and street party in the April Easter holidays when people from all over the country take every bed in town.
Backpacker’s Paradise 148 Baron van Reede St 044 272 3436,
backpackersparadise.net. A well-run two-storey hostel along the main drag, which makes an effort to go the extra few centimetres with three-quarter beds, en-suite doubles and family rooms as well as dorms. There are nightly ostrich, and veg-friendly, braais, too, and a daily shuttle from the Baz Bus drop-off in George to the hostel. The on-site adventure centre organizes cycle trips in the Swartberg Pass and there’s a daily shuttle to the caves, ostrich farm and wildlife ranch, as well as horseriding. Camping R100, dorms R160, doubles R520
Buffelsdrift Game Lodge 7km from town on the road to the caves 044 272 0106,
buffelsdrift.com. The town’s top stay, in luxurious en-suite safari tents overlooking a large dam with hippo in it. Breakfast, served in the grand thatched dining area, is included, and game drives or horseback rides to view rhino, buffalo, elephant, giraffe and various antelope can be included in a package, or paid for separately. R2500
De Oue Werf Signposted off the R328 to Cango Caves, 12km north of Oudtshoorn
044 272 8712,
ouewerf.co.za. Luxurious and well-priced garden rooms on a working farm, run by the very welcoming sixth generation of the family. Green lawns run down to a dam, which has a swinging slide and raft to play on, and lots of birdlife. A great option if you’re visiting the caves and want to stay in the country. R1300
Gum Tree Lodge 139 Church St 044 279 2528,
gumtreelodge.co.za. Five rooms in a peaceful B&B, as well as a two-roomed self-catering cottage sleeping four, conveniently located a few minutes’ walk from the centre, fronting onto a river with good birdlife. There’s a pool and deck, a well-stocked pub, and rooms have modern bathrooms, a/c and TV. Doubles R1150, cottage R1800
Kleinplaas Holiday Resort 171 Baron van Reede St 044 272 5811,
kleinplaas.co.za. Well-run, shady sites for camping and fully equipped self-catering brick chalets, conveniently close to town, with a swimming pool and launderette. The owners know the town well and will show you the ropes, and can provide breakfast for a little extra. Camping R320, chalet R1300
Lodge 96 96 Langenhoven Rd 044 272 2996,
lodge96.co.za. Simple, neat house with clean rooms and pine furniture, one dorm and one family room, with a garden for a few tents, a pool, laundry service and good kitchen for self-catering. Ideal if you are on a budget and don’t want a noisy hostel scene, and they can organise activities in the area. Camping R100, dorm R160, doubles R550
Oudtshoorn has a choice of several places to eat, mostly strung out along Baron van Reede Street and catering to the tourist trade, with the obligatory ostrich on the menu.
Bello Cibo 145 Baron van Reede St 044 272 3245. Relaxed and reasonably priced Italian place with indoor and outdoor seating, making it a good choice for children. Besides pizza and pasta, there are some creative ostrich (R90) offerings. Booking advisable. Mon–Sat 5–10pm.
Buffelsdrift Game Lodge 7km out of town towards Cango Caves 044 272 0106. Have a great breakfast or lunch on a wooden deck overlooking the waterhole, and do a spot of animal viewing at the same time. The lodge is open to non-guests for meals, and you could combine it with an elephant encounter or other wildlife activity. Breakfast buffets with some local specialities such as roesterkoek – delicious sandwiches roasted on the coals (R90). Daily 10am–10pm.
Café Brule Queens Hotel, 5 Baron van Reede St 044 279 2412,
queenshotel.co.za. The nicest café in town, set in the restored Queens Hotel which has a rather grand, colonial ambience. The menu includes generous cooked breakfasts and ostrich burgers (R70) for lunch; it’s also a great spot to sip a cappuccino overlooking the main street. They make their own pastries and breads too, and their deli counter is good for picnic supplies. Daily 7am–5pm.
29km from Oudtshoorn • Daily 9am–4pm • R100 • 044 272 7410,
cango-caves.co.za
The Cango Caves number among South Africa’s ten most popular attractions, drawing a quarter of a million visitors each year to gasp at their fantastic cavernous spaces, dripping rocks and rising columns of calcite. In the two centuries since they became known to the public, the caves have been seriously battered by human intervention, but they still represent a stunning landscape growing inside the Swartberg foothills. Don’t go expecting a serene and contemplative experience, though: the only way of getting inside the caves is on a guided tour accompanied by a commentary.
San hunter-gatherers sheltered in the entrance caves for millennia before white settlers arrived, but it’s unlikely that they ever made it to the lightless underground chambers. Jacobus van Zyl, a Karoo farmer, was probably the first person to penetrate beneath the surface, when he slid down on a rope into the darkness in July 1780, armed with a lamp. Over the next couple of centuries the caves were visited and pillaged by growing numbers of callers, some of whom were photographed cheerfully carting off wagonloads of limestone columns.
In the 1960s and 1970s the caves were made accessible to mass visitation when a tourist complex was built, the rock-strewn floor was evened out with concrete, ladders and walkways were installed, and the caverns were subsequently turned into a kitsch extravaganza with coloured lights, piped music and an indecipherable commentary. Even apartheid put its hefty boot in: under the premiership of Dr Hendrik Verwoerd, the arch-ideologue of racial segregation, a separate “non-whites” entrance was hacked through one wall, resulting in a disastrous through-draft that began dehydrating the caves. Fortunately, the worst excesses have now ended; concerts are no longer allowed inside the chambers, and the coloured lights have been removed.
Two tours leave every hour, and you may only enter the caves on a tour. Tours must be booked in advance, by phone, otherwise you may not get on one. The one-hour Standard Tour (on the hour; R100) gets you through the first six chambers, but far more interesting is the ninety-minute Adventure Tour (on the half-hour; R150) which takes you into the deepest sections open to the public, where the openings become smaller and smaller. Squeezing through tight openings with names like Lumbago Walk, Devil’s Chimney and The Letterbox is not recommended if you are claustrophobic, and you should wear oldish clothes and shoes with a grip to negotiate the slippery floors.
By car The drive here from Oudtshoorn involves heading north along Baron van Reede Street, and continuing 32km along a signposted scenic, quiet road (R328) to the caves. From the caves you can continue by car on the R328 to Prince Albert via the majestic Swartberg Pass.
Information The visitors’ complex includes an interpretive centre with quite interesting displays about the geology, people and wildlife connected with the caves, the decent Cango Caves restaurant, and a well-stocked souvenir shop. Below the complex you’ll find shady picnic sites at the edge of a river that cuts its way into the mountains and along which there are hiking trails.
The small Karoo village of CALITZDORP hangs in a torpor of midday stillness, with its attractive, unpretentious Victorian streets and handful of wineries. It is another spot favoured by artists – dry, beautiful and undeveloped. Be sure not to miss exploring Queen Street, home to a handful of appealing guesthouses, quirky cafés and galleries, all of which are en-route to the three key wineries, a few hundred metres from the centre, and clearly signposted off the R62 (look for the Bo-Plaas sign). Don’t leave without buying some port and olives – South Africa’s finest ports are produced here, and there are groves of olive trees. Calitzdorp is at the turn-off to the beautiful Groenfontein (green fountain) Valley. Since it is only 50km from Oudshoorn, consider staying here instead, it is cheaper, smaller and with far more appeal.
The Karoo sky is heaven for astronomers due to the lack of pollution and few lights, and you get some of the southern hemisphere’s sharpest views of the firmament from here. One of the most exciting things you can do in Prince Albert, if not in South Africa, is to watch the night skies with resident astronomer Hans Daehne (new moon only; R350 for a lecture and viewing; 072 732 2950,
astrotours.co.za). Be sure to book far in advance.
By car Calitzdorp is 370km from Cape Town, 50km east of Oudtshoorn on the R62. If you’re driving from the capital, allow for a 5hr drive with a lunch stop; this would be a good halfway, overnight stop along the R62 if you are travelling between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, and makes a good base, rather than staying in Oudtshoorn, to explore the area.
Tourist office At the Shell garage on Voortrekker St (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm, Sat 8am–1pm; 044 213 3775,
calitzdorp.org.za).
Calitzdorp Country House Besemkop, Calitz Street 044 213 3760,
cch.co.za. A luxurious and friendly guesthouse, with five rooms, a swimming pool and dam. Each unit has its own patio looking onto vines and the Swartberg beyond, and is furnished with antiques. Best of all, perhaps, though is the food, with dinners (R300) that can be booked in advance. R1800
PortWine Guest House Cnr of Queen and Station sts 044 213 3131,
portwine.net. The smartest and most comfortable guesthouse in town, in a renovated early nineteenth-century homestead with local paintings on the walls, and a veranda overlooking the Boplaas wine estate. There is a pool and rose garden at the back too. R900
Welgevonden Guesthouse St Helena Rd 044 213 3642,
welgevondenguesthouse.co.za. A comfortable country-style guesthouse, on a smallholding adjacent to Boplaas wine estate, 300m from the main road. The four en-suite bedrooms, set in an 1880 outbuilding, are furnished with brass or wooden bedsteads, patchwork quilts and wooden family heirloom furniture. R700
The narrow dirt road through the highly scenic Groenfontein Valley twists through the Swartberg foothills, past whitewashed Karoo cottages and farms and across brooks, eventually joining the R328 to Oudtshoorn. Winding through these backroads is also an option to reach the Cango Caves and Prince Albert, one of the best drives you’ll ever do in South Africa. Many of the roads are unsealed but are perfectly navigable in an ordinary car if taken slowly.
By car A circuitous minor route to the valley diverts just east of Calitzdorp from the R62, signposted Groenfontein Retreat.
Kruis Rivier Guest Farm 17km off the R62 (signposted turn-off 14km east of Calitzdorp) 044 213 3788,
kruisrivier.co.za. Homely, simply furnished cottages right underneath the mountains, with lovely streams and waterfalls, which make an excellent base for hiking. The owners, who have a policy of keeping prices absolutely affordable, will also do breakfast on request and can provide braai packs, home-made bread and wood. R500
Red Stone Hills 6km off the R62 (signposted turn-off 14km east of Calitzdorp) 044 213 3783,
redstone.co.za. Four lovely period-furnished Victorian cottages on a working farm in a landscape full of red rock formations. The owners can provide dinner on request as well as breakfast. Besides walking and cycling trails, there is birdwatching and the four horses on the farm can be ridden. R480
The Retreat at Groenfontein 20km northeast of Calitzdorp and 59km northwest of Oudtshoorn
044 213 3880,
groenfontein.com. No mobile phone reception or wi-fi. This isolated Victorian colonial farmstead borders the 2300-square-kilometre Swartberg Nature Reserve, an outstandingly beautiful area of gorges, rivers and dirt tracks. Accommodation is in comfortable en-suite rooms, each with its own fireplace, and rates include full board with vegetarians well catered for, and hospitable and helpful owners who turn every evening into a fine dinner party. R2000
Isolation has left intact the traditional rural architecture of PRINCE ALBERT, an attractive little town 70km north of Oudtshoorn. Reached across the loops and razorbacks of the Swartberg Pass, this is one of the most dramatic drives and entries to a town imaginable. Although firmly in the thirstlands of the South African interior, on the cusp between the Little and Great Karoo, Prince Albert is all the more striking for its perennial spring, whose water trickles down furrows along its streets – a gift that propagates fruit trees and gardens. It is undoubtedly one of the best small towns outside Cape Town to spend a couple of days, with its great guesthouses, restaurants and craft shopping, plus the spectacular landscapes.
Many come to Prince Albert for the drives themselves, through its two southerly gateways – the aforementioned Swartberg Pass on the R328 and Meiringspoort on the N12. Once in town, though, it is small enough to explore on foot and you’ll find everything you want on the main road.
The essence of the town is in the fleeting impressions that give the flavour of a Karoo dorp like nowhere else: the silver steeple of the Dutch Reformed church puncturing a deep-blue sky with a mountainous backdrop, and residents sauntering along or progressing slowly down the main street on squeaky bikes.
By car From Cape Town allow 5–6hr for the 420km trip. The fastest and least scenic route is along the N1, past Laingsburg, and involves no mountain passes; turn off onto the Prince Albert Road. The most scenic route is along the R62 to Calitzdorp or Oudsthoorn, and along the R328 over Swartberg. The pass is unpaved, with switchbacks, but fine in an ordinary car if you go slowly. If you want a gentler experience, approach the town via Meiringspoort from De Rust, a paved road which goes along a river and valleys with spectacular rock formations and little picnic spots. If you get a puncture or have car trouble Benny can help (24hr 073 455 1174). Petrol is available at the Agri Co-op, 99 Church Street, but note that it is closed on Saturdays from 11am and is closed on Sundays.
By train There is a one train per day, three times per week, between Cape Town and Johannesburg (Wed, Fri & Sun; Shosholoza Meyl; 086 000 8888) which stops at Prince Albert Road station, 45km from the hamlet. Be warned that the trains are often late, and Prince Albert Road station has absolutely no facilities. From Cape Town the journey is some 7hr 30min. From Johannesburg it is an overnight trip, of approximately 19hr. Arrange to be collected by your guesthouse, or book a taxi in advance through Billy van Rooyen (
072 337 3149; R450 for two people).
By bus Greyhound (083 915 9000,
greyhound.co.za) stops daily at the North and South Hotel in Prince Albert Road station, on the N1, on its Cape Town-to-Johannesburg run, but you will need to arrange to be picked up (see “By train”, above) for the 45km journey to Prince Albert. Allow 7–8hr by bus from Cape Town, and another 14hr for the 1073km to Johannesburg.
Banks and exchange There is limited use of credit cards in town, and no foreign exchange, but there is an ABSA ATM in Church Street.
Cinema and theatre The town’s newly restored and handsome Art Deco cinema and theatre – totally unique in the Karoo – The Showroom 41 Church Street (023 541 1563,
showroomtheatre.co.za) is definitely worth a visit. Their site gives the dates of shows, music and movies, there is usually something on over the weekend and Wednesdays nights, and you can purchase tickets online.
Hiking permits Lazy Lizard (daily 7.30am–5pm; 023 541 1379), in Church Street, sells Cape Nature hiking permits for exploring the Swartberg. You’ll find good wi-fi here, if it is poor elsewhere.
Tourist office Church St (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–noon; 023 541 1366,
princealbert.org.za). Has maps with accommodation, restaurants and craft shops, and can point you to other activities in the area, such as olive oil tasting or visiting the largest fig farm in South Africa, Weltevrede – itself a fantastic 30min drive away, in the foothills of the Swartberg (
figfarm.co.za). The town’s website has the dates of the Olive Festival in April, as well as details of photography courses and other activities.
Dennehof Guest House Off Christina de Wit St, on the outskirts of town 023 541 1227,
dennehof.co.za. Stay in one of seven rooms in this homestead that is a National Monument. Hiking trips are offered by the guesthouse, as well as mountain biking trips where you’re driven up the Swartberg and descend the terrifying 18km on your own two wheels (R400). Renting a bike for a day around town is another, more sedate option (R200). R1300
Karoo Lodge 66 Church St 023 541 1467 or
082 692 7736,
karoolodge.com. You’ll find reasonably priced, spacious accommodation at this B&B, which is run by a hospitable couple. Each of the suites, complete with pure cotton sheets and goose down duvets, leads onto the pool and the garden, which is filled with crimson bougainvillea. R1030
Karoo Views Margrieta Prinsloo Rd 023 541 1929,
karooview.co.za. Upmarket, comfortable self-catering in four modern Karoo-style cottages on the edge of town with views of the Swartberg and surrounding countryside, but close enough to walk into town. They do a light breakfast, and can provide firewood for braais. R1090
Mai’s Guest House 81 Church St 023 541 1188,
maisbandb.co.za. You can expect a comfortable stay in this restored nineteenth-century house. The rooms have a/c, and the house has a pool and lots of cats. A fabulous breakfast is served under the vines, dished up by the full-of-beans Irish owner. R1000
Onse Rus 47 Church St
023 541 1380,
onserus.co.za. Cool, thatched B&B rooms attached to a restored Cape Dutch house, with welcoming and knowledgeable owners who serve you tea and cake on arrival, and provide delicious home-made muesli and local yoghurt breakfasts, as well as the usual eggs in a gracious dining room. There is a pool, large garden full of birds and flowers and nice outdoor areas to relax in. R1040
Gallery Café Church St
023 541 1197. Imaginative dishes by passionate chef Brent, who creates a relaxed ambience above Prince Albert Gallery, with balcony seating. Vegetarians and vegans are catered for, there are delightful starters, meat dishes including game (R160) and home-made ice creams. Daily 6–9.30pm.
Lazy Lizard 9 Church St 023 541 1379. This is the best place in Prince Albert to come for lunch or a coffee. You can sit on the veranda here and get a good salad, quiche (R60) or sandwich, while using the internet. Daily 7.30am–5pm.
Simply Saffron 10 Church St
023 541 1040 or
082 873 9985. Aim to be in Prince Albert at the weekend simply to eat here. Meals are served by the owners, in their own dining room, using their kitchen garden or local ingredients where possible, with the flair and imagination you would expect from a top city restaurant. The three-course set menus offer a choice of two dishes, with plenty of options for vegetarians (R190) but you need to bring your own wine. Their talents extend beyond the kitchen, as it is also a healing centre with reflexology and other treatments on offer. Restaurant booking is essential as there is only one sitting, and a few tables. Fri & Sat 6–9pm.
Prince Albert is one of the best places to begin a trip into Die Hel (also known as Hell, The Hell or Gamkaskloof), a valley that’s part of the Swartberg Nature Reserve, and not on the way to anywhere. Although it doesn’t look far on the map, you’ll need to allow two-and-a-half hours in either direction to make the spectacular but tortuous drive into it along a dirt road. A 4WD isn’t needed, but you should definitely not attempt the drive in the killing heat of December or January without air conditioning. The valley itself is 20km long and fertile, a deep cleft between the towering Swartberg Mountains, with the Gamka River running through it.
The attraction of the place is the silence, isolation and birdlife. Only opened up to road transport in 1962, the valley still has no electricity supply, petrol, ATMs, mobile phone reception or shops.
There’s accommodation at Fontein Guest Farm (023 541 1107,
gamkaskloof.co.za), which is run by one of the original farming families. There are four different houses (R350 per person) and sites for camping (R200 per site). Meals and picnic baskets can be made on request, there’s dinner if you book beforehand, and the farm’s restaurant is always open for breakfast (7–10am). Another option for accommodation is the Nature Conservation (
021 483 0190,
capenature.co.za/reserves ), which has well-kept camping sites (from R150) and restored historical cottages (R640 per cottage).
Prince Albert is known for its mohair products: magnificent blankets, rugs and mats, socks, scarves and other garments. Prince Albert Gallery is a good place to start looking for artworks and crafts, though there are a number of smaller shops on Church Street. Like most small towns, there is a modest Saturday morning market for locals, next to the Fransie Pienaar Museum (9am–11am) with home-made baked goods, fruit and vegetables, Karoo lamb, biltong, teas and coffee. Prince Albert is also well-known for its figs and olives – you’ll find the dried varieties everywhere, and boxes of fresh figs in summer after Christmas, especially in February. The olive oil is outstanding.
Gay’s Guernsey Dairy Christina de Wit St 023 541 1274,
gaysguernseydairy.com. Award-winning home-made cheeses which you can taste before buying, as well as yoghurts and cream. If you’re travelling with children, take them to watch the milking at sunrise, and walk around the farm. Mon–Fri 7–9am, 10am–noon & 4–6pm, Sat & Sun 7–10am & 4.30–6pm.
Karoo Looms 55 Church St 023 541 1363,
karooweavery.co.za. The best place in Prince Albert for mohair carpets and rugs with bright, funky designs. Also look out for cotton bath mats off the looms. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm.
Prince Albert Gallery 57 Church St 023 541 1057,
princealbertgallery.co.za. The town’s beauty has attracted a number of artists to live here and the excellent and not-to-be-missed, Prince Albert Gallery, set in an airy Victorian building, sells their work. Come here to buy paintings, sculpture, affordable beadwork, jewellery, ceramics and etchings by local artists, or to visit one of their occasional special exhibitions. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–1pm, Sun 10am–1pm.
The Watershed 19 Church Street 082 938 2531,
watershedprincealbert.co.za. The town’s top gallery, set in a restored Victorian house, has photographic prints for sale by Berlin-born Schadeberg, famous for his iconic anti-apartheid images in the 1950s and 1960s of musicians, beautiful women, activists, including the mighty Nelson M, and magazine covers. There is also retro furniture, fabulous cushions and other unique interior design pieces you might like to acquire with a deep purse. Pieces are chosen from artists using the textures and colours of the Karoo. Their website has a catalogue and they do ship goods. Daily 10am–4pm.