Port Elizabeth, Addo and the private reserves
Port Elizabeth, the Eastern Cape’s commercial and industrial centre, is for many visitors a practical place to start or end a trip along the Garden Route. The port’s industrial feel is mitigated by a small historical centre with a selection of excellent restaurants and drinking spots. Nearby there are outstanding beaches around Nelson Mandela Bay as well as some beautiful coastal walks a few kilometres from town. Around an hour’s drive inland from Port Elizabeth is its biggest draw, Addo Elephant Park, the closest Big Five reserve to Cape Town. Here you have virtually guaranteed sightings of elephants and a good chance of seeing other big animals.
Port Elizabeth
As a city, PORT ELIZABETH (always referred to as PE) is pretty functional and easy enough to navigate – it’s a great deal smaller and more manageable than Cape Town or Johannesburg. The city does have an industrial feel, however it still has plenty to offer: excellent and safe beaches, sunset cruises on the bay, a small but interesting historical centre and rich past – both in colonial and anti-apartheid terms – and beautiful coastal walks and beaches, a few kilometres from town. A couple of classically pretty rows of Victorian terraces still remain in Central, the area on the hill above the bay, with a recommended walk around the Donkin Reserve and an interesting choice of places to eat in restored old houses. For accommodation however, visitors are better off staying near the beach in Humewood or Summerstrand.
Port Elizabeth’s city centre is marred by a network of freeways that cuts a swath across the south of town, blocking off the city from the harbour. In the midst of this stands the slender tower of the Campanile, commemorating the landing of the 1820 British settlers. These British settlers left their mark on the architecture of the town centre, and today a number of English-speaking South Africans in the Eastern Cape can trace their roots back to these settlers. The city’s white population, however, retreated to the suburbs some time ago, leaving the centre to African traders and township shoppers. The suburbs offer little to draw you away from the beachfront, unless you need something practical, in which case you should make a beeline for Newton Park, 5km west of the centre and home to the shopping malls of Greenacres and The Bridge.
Central
Central, the area on the slopes above the actual town centre, has seen pleasing regeneration in the last couple of years with a number of creative offices choosing to locate here, and some grand old hotels set to be restored – there’s also a number of good places to eat in Richmond Hill. Running parallel to the freeway as it sweeps into town is Port Elizabeth’s main street, Govan Mbeki Avenue. This street was renamed in honour of the veteran activist (father of Thabo Mbeki, South Africa’s former president), who died in 2001; during the last century the Eastern Cape has been the heartland of the African National Congress, trade union movements and political resistance. The symbolic heart of town is the City Hall, standing in Market Square, a large empty space surrounded by some striking mid-Victorian buildings.
Just north of Market Square is the lofty Campanile monument. A block east from the Campanile is the former Sanlam Building where famous activist Steve Biko was severely tortured, and then died while being transported from here to Pretoria. Rather derelict and dismal now, it can’t be visited, though there are plans to restore it as a political monument.
The dejection of the quarter, under the grimy shadow of a flyover, is lessened by taking a walk from the Campanile up to the Donkin Lighthouse and Pyramid. From the Campanile, the walk up to the lighthouse is rich in anti-apartheid history, with information plaques relating to Nelson Mandela, and some funky sculptures, such as the line of life-size laser-cut steel figures of voters giving triumphal fist pumps in 1994. Reaching the lighthouse, there’s a pleasant green space and you can enjoy views of the harbour, beaches and bay.
Donkin Street
Heading west up hilly Donkin Street, you’ll come upon a curious stone pyramid commemorating Elizabeth Donkin, after whom PE was named. Elizabeth was the young wife of the Cape’s acting governor in 1820, Sir Rufane Donkin; she died of fever in India in 1818. The nineteen Donkin Houses, built in the mid-nineteenth century and declared National Monuments in 1967, reflect the desire of the English settlers to create a home from home in this strange, desiccated land.
Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum
1 Park Drive • Mon & Wed–Fri 9am–5pm, Tues 2–5pm • Free
The Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum, situated in two buildings framing the entrance to St George’s Park, sounds grander than it is, but has a collection of contemporary local work, visiting exhibitions and a small shop selling postcards and local arts and crafts. Their Eastern Cape art section is the thing to aim for, though they do have some minor European and oriental artworks. Sadly there are no funds to keep it open at weekends.
South End Museum
Cnr of Humewood Rd and Walmer Boulevard • Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm • Free
Based in the old Seamen’s Institute, the South End Museum recalls the bygone days of the South End, a once vibrant multicultural neighbourhood whose growth had much to do with PE’s then booming harbour. As a result of the Group Areas Act it was razed street by street in the 1960s, save for a handful of churches and mosques. Today, the area is full of pricey townhouses.
The beachfront and around
PE’s beaches are its main attraction. The beachfront strip, divided from the harbour by a large wall, starts at wide King’s Beach, somewhat marred by a jumble of coal heaps and oil tanks behind it. To the southeast lies Humewood Beach, across the road from which is a complex housing the Bayworld Museum and Snake Park (daily 9am–4.30pm, snake show daily at noon, seal and penguin talks daily 11am & 3pm; R40; 
www.bayworld.co.za), a research and education centre where you can visit the snake park, and see seals and penguins in the Oceanarium. Brookes on the Bay and Dolphin’s Leap nearby are complexes of restaurants, pubs and clubs with great views.
Beyond, to the south, Hobie Beach and Summerstrand are great for walking and sunbathing. Summerstrand’s mammoth Boardwalk Casino Complex (suninternational.com/boardwalk) houses a casino, places to eat and shop, and a cinema, plus adventure golf and ten-pin bowling, among other things.
Sardinia Bay and Schoenmakerskop
Marine Drive continues 15km down the coast from Summerstrand to the village of Schoenmakerskop (“Schoenies” to the locals), along an impressive coastline that alternates between rocky shores and sandy beaches, with the odd café to stop off at. From here you can walk the 8km Sacramento Trail, a shoreline path that leads to the huge-duned Sardinia Bay, the wildest and most dramatic stretch of coast in the area and the best part of Port Elizabeth, if you want nature, rather than city. It is also only fifteen to twenty minutes drive from the airport. To get to Sardinia Bay by road, turn right at the Schoenmakerskop intersection and follow the road until Sardinia Bay is signposted on the left.
The Art In MAndela’s Steps
Art Route 67 (nmbt.co.za/listing/route_67.html) is a walk that incorporates 67 works of art by artists from the Eastern Cape, which commemorate Mandela’s 67 years of fighting for democracy. The art ranges from small tile mosaics and vinyl street stickers to metal installations and towering sculptures. Well-worth exploring, the walking route of 1km or so starts at the 52m-high Campanile Bell Tower (Strand St, Central; Tues–Sun 9am–12.30pm & 1–2pm), which offers views of the harbour and surrounds from the top; from here, the route continues to Vuyisile Mini Square, a place which saw many meetings of resistance during the 1980s, and up the staircase at St Mary’s Terrace, to meander through the Donkin Reserve, before reaching a triumphal end on top of Donkin Hill.
Arrival and departure: Port Elizabeth
By plane
Port Elizabeth’s airport is conveniently situated on the edge of Walmer suburb, 4km south of the city centre, and is served by Safair (
087 135 1351, safair.co.za), Kulula (0861 585 852, kulula.com), SAA (041 507 1111, flysaa.com) and Mango (086 100 1234, flymango.com). Taxis wait outside the airport and the major car rental companies are here too.
Destinations Cape Town (3 daily; 1hr 15min); Durban (3 daily; 1hr 15min); Johannesburg (6–7 daily; 1hr 35min).
By train
The train station (041 507 2662) is centrally located on the Strand. The Shosholoza Meyl (www.shosholozameyl.co.za) connects Johannesburg to PE (Wed, Fri & Sun; 20hr 35min). You will need to arrange to be met by your hotel or a taxi beforehand, as this downtown area is prone to crime.
By bus
Intercity buses Greyhound, Intercape and Translux buses stop at Greenacres shopping mall in Newton Park suburb, 3km from the centre. It’s best to arrange to be met here by your accommodation, though there are waiting taxis during business hours. Leaving PE, buses stop at every major town along the Garden Route to Cape Town, and also head east to Mthatha and Durban.
Destinations: Cape Town (6–7 daily; 12hr); Durban (daily; 12hr 30min); Johannesburg (daily; 14hr 30min); Knysna (daily; 5hr), Mthatha (daily; 8hr 50min).
Baz Bus The Baz Bus will drop you off at the backpacker lodge that you are staying at.
information
Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism (nmbt.co.za) has several offices including: Port Elizabeth Airport, Arrivals Hall (Mon–Fri 7am–7pm, Sat 7am–6pm, Sun 8am–6pm; 041 581 0456); Shop 48 at the Boardwalk, Marine Drive, Summerstrand (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; 041 583 2030); and Donkin Reserve Lighthouse Building, Belmont Terrace, Central (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm; 041 582 2575).
tours and Activities
Horseriding Heavenly Stables (431 Sardinia Bay Rd, 081 890 7080, heavenlystables.co.za; R450) offers riding with lovely horses, for both beginners and experienced riders. The rides go through coast dune forest and end up on the beach at Sardinia Bay.
Sea cruises Raggy Charters (073 152 2277, raggycharters.co.za; R1400) runs cruises from PE Harbour at the Algoa Yacht Club, with opportunities to see the massive penguin colony at St Croix Island, dolphins and humpback and southern right whales (July–Nov).
Watersports Although the ocean around PE is not tropically clear and warm, the diving is good, especially for soft corals, and there is the chance of diving with ragged tooth sharks. Pro Dive (189 Main Rd, Walmer 041 581 1144, prodive.co.za) offer diving, snorkelling, kiteboarding, stand-up paddling, kayaking and dive courses.
Tours It’s possible to explore Central on foot – the tourist office can provide a map which highlights the area’s various historical buildings and landmarks. The best way to see the city, however, is on one of the excellent bus tours, which shed light on the culture and history of a city shaped by layers of political history. Calabash Tours (041 585 6162, calabashtours.co.za) is one of the best and operates “Real City Tours” by day (R550) and shebeen tours by night, as well as trips to Addo.
getting around
By taxi PE’s minibus taxis run regularly from town to the beachfront, but are the least recommended way to travel, in terms of safety. There are some metered taxis about, but it’s better to arrange transport beforehand; try King Cab (041 368 5559), or Uber.
Accommodation
The obvious place to stay in PE is the beachfront, with a wide choice of hotels, self-catering suites and B&Bs. During the December and January peak holiday period the beachfront becomes the focus for most of the city’s action, while February, March and April are much quieter and offer perfect beach weather.
Admiral’s Lodge 47 Admiralty Way, Summerstrand 041 583 1894, admiralslodge.co.za. Spacious and stylish rooms at a good B&B situated at the far end of Summerstrand, roughly 7km from the centre; airport transfers are available (R120). There’s a braai area, communal lounge and pool. R1090
First Avenue Lodge 3 First Ave, Summerstrand 041 583 5173, firstavenuelodge.co.za. Sixteen en-suite rooms close to the beach with their own entrances, offered on a B&B or self-catering basis, in a popular and pleasant establishment with a lawn pool and chilling-out area. R1200
The Humewood 33 Beach Rd, Humewood 041 585 8961, humewoodhotel.co.za. A large, old-fashioned hotel with more than a nostalgic hint of 1950s family seaside holidays. The rooms are large and feature wicker furniture and older-style floral prints. Service is excellent and includes laundry facilities. There’s a good bar and sun deck. R1120
Island Vibe Backpackers 4 Jenvey Rd, Summerstrand 041 583 1256, islandvibe.co.za. Ideal for backpackers who want more creature comforts without sacrificing social atmosphere. An appealing location near the beach and nightlife spots, offering four-bed dorms with wooden bunks, as well as doubles, plus a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, pool table and soccer table. Dorms R180, doubles R650
Jikeleza Lodge 44 Cuyler St, Central 041 586 3721, highwinds.co.za. Friendly backpacker place, with dorms, doubles and a family room. Its adventure centre, High Winds, can help you sort out tour and travel bookings; they do tours around Addo, as well as recommended combo tours to Addo and Schotia for the evening or overnight. Dorms R140, doubles R360
Kelway Hotel Brookes Hill Drive, Humewood 041 584 0638, thekelway.co.za. Stylish hotel kitted out with timber panelling, seagrass chairs and handcrafted wooden tables. The pool area, swathed in green and with a natural rock wall, wooden decking and sunbeds overlooking the sea, is lovely. Standard, luxury and family rooms are available, and breakfast is included. R1180
King’s Beach Backpacker Hostel 41 Windermere Rd, Humewood 041 585 8113. Spotless, slightly out-dated, well-established hostel, a block away from the beach, with camping facilities, dorms and double rooms, plus an outside bar and braai area. Although principally for self-catering, it lays on tea, coffee, and bread with various jams in the morning. The travel desk can book a range of trips including township and game park tours. Camping R100, dorms R150, doubles R400
Lungile Backpackers 12 La Roche Drive, Summerstrand 041 582 2042, lungilebackpackers.co.za. Large and popular beachfront hostel with a sociable party vibe, situated in the heart of PE’s nightlife strip. It has a large lawn to relax on, twin rooms by the swimming pool and dorms inside the main house. Camping R100, dorms R160, doubles R500
Manor 38 38 Brighton Drive, Summerstrand 083 270 7771, manorcollection.co.za. Modern, sparklingly clean boutique hotel in an excellent location close to Summerstrand and the Boardwalk. There’s a lovely pool area with sunbeds, and two communal lounge areas. R1600
Pine Lodge Resort Off Marine Drive, Humewood 041 583 4004, pinelodge.co.za. The Pine Lodge Resort is located right on the beach near the wonderful historic lighthouse and next to the Cape Recife Nature Reserve, where owls, mongooses and antelope make appearances. Accommodation is in excellent-value self-catering log cabins, some of which sleep up to eight people. There’s a popular bar and restaurant, and the lodge also houses a swimming pool, spa for beauty treatments and a games room. R1075
Windermere 35 Humewood Rd, Humewood 041 582 2245, thewindermere.co.za. Nine large rooms that have been given an almost Zen-like feel through the subtle use of off-white to oatmeal tones which contrast with dark, chocolatey hues and timber and granite surfaces. Full hotel facilities are available including a plunge pool, bar, laundry and secure parking. It’s worth noting that the rooms with sea views don’t have a higher price tag, so ask for one of those. R1990
Eating
The best area to trawl – both during the day and night – for an alfresco meal, rejuvenating coffee or tasty sandwich is Richmond Hill in Central. Here Art Deco and Victorian buildings give a historical feel, offsetting the overall functional feel of PE, and there’s a lot of places for tapas and wine. Another obvious choice in a seaside town for having a meal or drink is along the beachfront.
Fushin Sushi Bar Stanley on Bain, Richmond Hill 041 811 7874. This is the place to head for the best sushi in town (R60–160). Rather than sitting at a counter, here you can order from a menu and enjoy pavement seating. They also serve salads and Eastern-influenced tapas-style small dishes. Mon–Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 11am–9pm.
Natti’s Thai Kitchen 5 Park Lane, Central 041 373 2763. Reliable restaurant, which has been going for years, serving reasonably priced, authentic Thai cuisine (average mains R90) in a relaxed atmosphere, with a BYO alcohol policy. Mon–Sat 6.30–10pm.
Something Good Roadhouse Marine Drive 041 583 6986. Stripped-down roadhouse/surfer bar on the beachfront, where you can get breakfast (until 11am; R70), pizzas, burgers, gourmet foot-long sandwiches and other classic roadhouse meals. Sit out on the deck, which is humming with people and has a beautiful view of the sea. Mon–Sun 7am–11pm.
Todos Locos 32 Bain St, Richmond Hill 041 582 2914. Excellent Spanish restaurant with a Spanish owner, Ana who often welcomes guests to the light and spacious interior, and cooks up a storm. There are blackboard specials, tapas and old favourites like seafood paella (R80), sangria and Spanish omelette. Tues–Sat noon–3pm & 6–10pm.
Two Olives 3 Stanley Street, Central 041 585 0371. Among the popular Richmond Hill strip of restaurants, Two Olives with its Mediterranean bias offers a great evening out – delicious, generously sized and varied tapas (R60) served with Cape wines on a first floor wrap-around balcony, with plenty of options for vegetarians and seafood lovers. Steaks and pizzas are also recommended. Mon–Sat 11.30am–10.30pm, Sun noon–10pm.
Vovo Telo Bakery and Café 16 Raleigh St, Richmond Hill 041 585 5606. This is a great place for breakfast and lunch, with Italian and French breads and pastries (R40), real coffee and veranda seating. Mon–Sat 7.30am–3pm.
drinking and nightlife
Balizza Times Square Shopping Centre, cnr Heugh Rd & 5th Ave, Walmer. This sprawling nightclub complex houses two bars, three lounges and two dancefloors. The DJs mix recent house anthems and old school tunes, and there’s a range of cocktails and shooters to enjoy (cocktails from R56). Mon–Sun 11am–2am.
Cubaña 49 Beach Rd, Humewood 041 582 5282. A café during the day, at night this morphs into a cigar lounge and offers a large cocktail menu (drinks from R60) as well as reasonably priced Mexican-inspired food and burgers. The outside deck has a sea view, and on weekends there’s Cuban music and DJs. Smart-casual dress code in the evenings (no trainers or shorts). Mon–Wed & Sun 8am–midnight, Thurs 8am–2am, Fri & Sat 8am–4am.
For the Love of Wine 1st Floor, 20 Stanley St, Richmond Hill 072 566 2692. This smart, compact bar is situated on the first floor with a wraparound balcony that overlooks Stanley Street. Despite being PE’s only wine bar for the discerning, it is not overpriced and the selection is broad, either to drink there (from R45) or take home from their shop stocking interesting boutique wines. Tues–Sat 12–10pm.
Gondwana Café 2 Dolphin’s Leap, Main Rd, Humewood 041 585 0990. This place is relaxed, with live music on Sunday nights, and DJs on other nights, though it’s best to check out beforehand what is going on (beer from R26). Daily 4pm–4am.
directory
Banks and exchange American Express Foreign Exchange, Boardwalk Casino Complex (041 583 2025; Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm). There are ATMs at every shopping mall.
Cinema Nu Metro Cinema, Walmer Park Shopping Centre, Main Rd between 14th and 16th Sts, Walmer and at the Boardwalk Complex on the beachfront.
Hospitals St George’s (private), 40 Park Drive, Settlers Park (041 392 6111).
Pharmacy Mount Road Pharmacy, 559 Govan Mbeki Avenue (daily 8.15am–11pm; 041 484 3838).
Post office 259 Govan Mbeki Avenue (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm & Sat 8.30am–1pm; 041 508 4039).
Addo Elephant National Park
73km northeast of Port Elizabeth • Daily 7am–7pm • R248 • www.addoelephantpark.com
Home to the Big Five, but best known for its hundreds of pachyderms, Addo Elephant National Park is close enough to Port Elizabeth to be visited on a day-trip, though a couple of nights spent here are undoubtedly more rewarding.
You can drive around Addo yourself, but if you want to be taken around in an open-topped Land Rover and given a luxury safari experience, then stay in one of the nearby private reserves. Another highly enjoyable way to roam the park is on a horseriding tour.
Call of the Wild
Addo calls itself the “Big Seven” reserve due to the fact that the Alexandra State Forest/Woody Cape section of the park (the part of the coast which is protected and just south of the elephant park) has whales and great white sharks, pushing up the significant animal denizens to seven. Elephants remain Addo’s most obvious drawing card, but there are also a few lions (don’t count on seeing them), as well as the presence of the rest of the Big Five – buffalo, hippos and leopards – all of which make Addo a game reserve to be reckoned with. Spotted hyenas were introduced some years ago, as part of a programme to re-establish predators in the local ecosystem. Other species to look out for include cheetah, endangered and hard to spot black rhino, as well as eland, kudu, warthog, ostrich and red hartebeest.
One big attraction of Addo is that the Eastern Cape is malaria-free (unlike Kruger Park). And if you’ve driven out this way along the Garden Route and don’t fancy heading back exactly the way you came, you’ve the option of returning to Cape Town via the inland Route 62, branching off the N2 not far west of Port Elizabeth.
clockwise from top left the range of wildlife to be found at the shamwari private reserve
Wildlife-watching
The Addo bush is thick, dry and prickly, making it difficult sometimes to spot any of the six hundred or so elephants, four hundred Cape buffaloes and other animals; when you do, though, it’s often thrillingly close up. A good strategy is to ask where the elephants are and the other four of the Big Five have last been seen (enquire with staff at the park reception), or to head for the waterhole in front of the restaurant to scan the bush for large grey backs quietly moving about. The best way to see wildlife, though, is to go on a guided game drive in an open vehicle with a knowledgeable national parks driver.
Arrival and departure: addo elephant national park
By car Addo’s southern gate is accessed off the N2 at the village of Colchester, 43km northeast of Port Elizabeth; the gate is about 5km from Mathyolweni Camp. To get to Main Camp, north of Mathyolweni, take a slow, scenic drive through the park from the southern gate, which will take at least 1hr, or use the R335 that runs outside the western flank – take the N2 from Port Elizabeth east towards Grahamstown for 5km, branching off at the Addo/Motherwell/Markman signpost onto the R335 through Addo village. The R335 is also the way to reach the majority of accommodation outside the park. The Zuurberg section is reached by taking a turn-off marked “Zuurberg” 1km before you reach Main Camp, and travelling for 21km along a good gravel road; this is the way to Narina Bush Camp and the Zuurberg horse trails. The network of roads within the section of the park between Main Camp and Mathyolweni is untarred, but in good condition.
information and tours
Eating The restaurant at Main Camp is open for three meals a day (daily 7:30am–10pm), while the shop is well stocked with food and drink.
Guided tours Tours can be booked in advance at Main Camp or on the park’s website. Two-hour guided game drives leave throughout the day and cost R370 per person for day-drives, R470 per person for sunset trips (including snacks and drinks), and R370 per person for night drives. The vehicles used are higher off the ground than a normal sedan to improve viewing opportunities. In PE, Calabash Tours runs day-trips here, as do most of the backpacker hostels.
Hop-on guide You can hire the exclusive services of a hop-on guide (R210) who joins you in your own car for 2hr and will direct you to where to find the animals.
Maps Park maps indicate the location of picnic and braai sites, and are available at Main Camp reception.
horserides
A number of escorted horserides are on offer in Addo, at ridiculously low prices. Experienced riders (able to sit a gallop) can head into the Nyathi area, home to the Big Five (rides take place at 8.30am and 2pm; R510). In the beautiful Zuurberg section, 21km beyond Main Camp, there are one-hour rides for novices (three daily; R220), and longer excursions for more experienced riders (three or five hours starting at 9am; R330) – don’t expect to see much wildlife here, though the mountain and steep river valley scenery is really beautiful (you’ll need a head for heights on the longer trails). There is also a ride that overnights at Narina Bush Camp (R600). Advance booking, by phone only, for all trips is required (042 233 8657).
Accommodation
inside the park
Bear in mind that reservations, through SANParks (012 428 9111, addoelephantpark.com), are essential in high season; although you can reserve directly with Addo if it’s less than 72hrs in advance (042 233 8600). There are few villages in the area, so stock up on self-catering supplies in PE or Colchester. You are likely to have to take whatever kind of accommodation is available, as it’s a popular destination.
Main Camp 012 428 9111, addoelephantpark.com. Main Camp is the oldest and largest of the National Parks camps. In addition to camping facilities, there are forest cabins that sleep two people and share cooking facilities in communal kitchens, and more luxurious two-person chalets with their own kitchenettes. Some units sleep up to four people (minimum charge is for two occupants). The cheapest accommodation available is in well-designed, spacious safari tents, perfect during the summer months, with decks right next to the perimeter fence. Camping R330, safari tent R830, forest cabin R1010, chalet R1160
Mathyolweni Camp 012 428 9111, addoelephantpark.com. National Parks accommodation in a dozen fully equipped self-catering chalets. These chalets sleep two people, and have showers and nice viewing decks. The chalets are set in a secluded valley surrounded by thicket that supports a wealth of birdlife. R1300
Narina Camp 012 428 9111, addoelephantpark.com. A small, very attractive National Parks bush camp in the mountainous Zuurberg section, comprising four safari tents that sleep four people and share washing and cooking facilities. There is no restaurant here, so bring your own provisions. R1410
Spekboom Tented Rest Camp 012 428 9111, addoelephantpark.com. The most rustic of the National Parks accommodation, consisting of five fixed tents on decks with twin beds. Each tent is equipped with camp chairs, a table and solar light, with communal showers and toilets within short walking distance. There is no electricity, so you’ll need to bring a torch; barbecue facilities and a communal gas fridge and stove plates are available. R1010
outside the park
Outside the park, but within easy striking distance, you’ll find an abundance of private B&Bs and guesthouses, especially among the citrus groves of the Sundays River Valley. Many offer day and night drives in the game reserve.
Avoca River Cabins 13km northwest of Addo village on the R336 082 677 9920, avocarivercabins.co.za. Reasonably priced B&B and self-catering accommodation on a farm in the Sundays River Valley. The range of self-catering spans from budget cabins (four- and five-sleeper) to more comfortable thatched huts, some of which are situated on the banks of the river. There is a swimming pool, some pleasant walks to be had on the citrus farm, plus a treetop course for kids, and canoes are available to rent. Four-sleeper cabin R700
Camp Figtree 30 km northwest of Addo village on the R335 082 611 3603, campfigtree.co.za. Luxury mountain lodge, built on the Zuurberg slopes with glorious views, and built to satisfy every dream of romantic Africa. The rates include excellent food, and the packages they offer include a 3hr game drive into the park. It scores high on hilly scenery and total relaxation, though it is not near enough to nip in and out of the main part of the park, and the drive there is 15km on gravel road. R3692
Chrislin Africa Lodge 12km south of Addo main gate, off the R336 042 233 0022 or 082 783 3553, chrislin.co.za. This quirky B&B offers accommodation in thatched huts that have been built using traditional Xhosa construction techniques. There’s also a lovely lapa (courtyard) and pool, and they serve up hearty country breakfasts, as well as dinners (available on request). R1440
The Elephant House 5km north of Addo village on the R335 042 233 2462 or 083 799 5671, elephanthouse.co.za. Just minutes from Addo is one of the Eastern Cape’s top places to stay, a stunning thatch-roofed lodge filled with Persian rugs and antique furniture that perfectly balances luxury with a supremely relaxed atmosphere. The eight bedrooms and six garden cottages (ideal for families and half the price of a room) open onto a lawn courtyard. Candlelit dinners are available, as are game drives (R1000/person) into Addo and the surrounding reserves. Doubles R3700, cottages R1450
Gorah Elephant Camp 9km west along the Addo Heights Rd leading from the N10 to Addo village 044 501 1111, gorah.hunterhotels.com. Ultra-luxurious outfit based around a Victorian homestead, with a landscaped pool and decked out with the appropriate paraphernalia including mounted antelope skulls above the fireplace. Meals are included in the price, as are game drives. R17543
Hopefield Country House 20km southwest of Addo main gate 042 234 0333, hopefield.co.za. An atmospheric 1930s farmhouse set in beautiful English-style gardens on a citrus farm. The nine bedrooms are imaginatively furnished with period pieces in a style the owners (a pair of classical musicians who occasionally give impromptu concerts for guests) describe as “farmhouse eclectic”. R1300
Kronenhoff On the R336 as you enter Kirkwood 042 230 1448, kronenhoff.co.za. Situated in a small farming town, this is a hospitable, high-ceilinged Cape Dutch-style home, with five spacious suites, polished wooden floors, large leather sofas and a sociable pub. In summer the scent of orange blossom carries from the surrounding citrus groves. R1300
Orange Elephant On the R335, 8km from the National Park gate 042 233 0023, addobackpackers.com. Budget accommodation at a comfortable hostel, whose management will help you organize outings into the surrounding game reserves – an Addo full-day tour including a braai in the park, with an excellent guide, costs R1200. The lively bar is well known for its large portions of pub grub. Dorms R130, doubles R400
Rosedale Organic Farm B&B On the R335, 1km north of Addo village 042 233 0404, rosedalebnb.co.za. Very reasonably priced accommodation in eight cottages on a certified organic farm that exports citrus fruits to the EU. Hosts Keith and Nondumiso Finnemore are seriously committed to sustainable farming and tourism – water for the cottages is solar-heated, and you can enjoy organic oranges and juice at breakfast. Keith offers a free 1hr walking tour of the farm to guests, on which you can get all those nagging questions about the state of the world’s food industry answered. There is also a kitchen available for guests to self-cater and children are welcome. R950
Woodall Country House About 7km west of Addo main gate 042 233 0128, woodall-addo.co.za. Excellent luxury guesthouse on a working citrus farm with eleven self-contained suites and rooms. There’s a swimming pool, gymnasium, spa and sauna (massages are available, and there’s a resident beautician). A lovely sundowner deck overlooks a small lake full of swans and other waterfowl. Renowned for its outstanding country cuisine, its restaurant offers three- to six-course dinners. R3250
The Eastern Cape’s private game reserves
Although self-driving through Addo can be extremely rewarding, nothing beats getting into the wild in an open vehicle with a trained guide – something the private reserves excel at. If you want the works – game drives, outstanding food, uncompromising luxury and excellent accommodation, you’ll find it at top-ranking Shamwari between PE and Grahamstown, or at Kwandwe Game Reserve, another outstanding safari destination in the Eastern Cape, just north of Grahamstown.
If you aren’t a jetsetter, a good option is one of the full-day safaris offered by Amakhala or Schotia. Accommodation rates are listed as the cheapest for two people in high season, although specials and season a variations may be available.
The private Reserves
Amakhala Game Reserve 67km north of Port Elizabeth on the N2 041 581 0993, amakhala.co.za. A fantastic, family-friendly reserve stocked with the Big Five as well as cheetah, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and antelope. The Bushman’s River meanders through the reserve allowing for riverboat sundowner cruises and canoeing for overnighting guests. Safaris for day-visitors must be booked in advance and include a 3hr game drive and a three-course lunch (R980). All accommodation comprises fabulous views, with three different tented camps to choose from. R5960
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve On the R67, 34km north of Grahamstown and 160km from Port Elizabeth 046 603 3400, kwandwe.com. This is the Eastern Cape’s top wildlife destination, with 30km of Fish River frontage and the Big Five in attendance. Apart from twice-a-day game drives, Kwandwe’s safari activities include guided river walks, canoeing on the Great Fish, rhino tracking and fascinating cultural tours with a resident historian. Children are well catered for with family game drives, bush walks, fishing and frog safaris. There are four lodges, ranging from a quintessential luxury thatched lodge to a stunning boutique-hotel-in-the-bush ingeniously designed with glass walls for panoramic views of the terrain. R1580
Lalibela Game Reserve 90km northeast of Port Elizabeth on the N2 to Grahamstown 041 581 8170, lalibela.co.za. An excellent luxury choice, Lalibela Game Reserve is home to the Big Five and diverse flora and fauna. Safaris are included in the accommodation rate, along with all meals and drinks – you can dine on terrific Eastern Cape food and contemporary cuisine. There are three fabulous lodges with private viewing decks and swimming pools to choose from, and they also offer an African drumming and dancing session. R10000
Schotia Game Reserve On the eastern flank of Addo 042 235 1436, schotiasafaris.co.za. Schotia is the smallest and the busiest of the private reserves, on account of the excellent value it offers. Although not (quite) a Big Five reserve, it’s really only missing elephants. Day-visitors can arrange to be collected from Port Elizabeth or anywhere in the Addo vicinity; full-day safaris 9am–9.30pm (R2500/person) involve a game drive through Addo and an evening game drive with lunch and dinner thrown in. They will collect you from PE or Addo. If you’re pushed for time or money you can opt for the afternoon game drive at 2.30pm (R1500/person). An overnight stay here is the cheapest among the private reserves; packages always include a room rate plus game drives, and there’s also a tented camp for the “Out of Africa” romance. R6000
Shamwari Game Reserve 65km north of Port Elizabeth on the N2 041 509 3000, shamwari.com. The largest and best known of the private reserves, Shamwari has cultivated a jetsetter fan base, hosting such celebrities as Tiger Woods and John Travolta, and consistently winning world travel accolades. The accolades are justified in the reserve’s diverse landscapes, requisite animals and high standards of wildlife-viewing. A variety of accommodation in luxurious lodges dotted across different parts of the property is available, furnished with every conceivable comfort. One of the best options is the “explorers camp”, which offers luxury combined with a chance to get in touch with nature. R10800