Sometimes our dogs do wild and crazy things that puzzle us. We wonder why they can’t just act more like, well, humans. It would make life so much easier if our dogs would greet people by extending their front paws for a hearty hello, or bypass the toilet and drink fresh water from their bowls, or resist the temptation to raid the cat’s litter box for a late-night snack.
Face the Fido facts. Dogs will be dogs. If they could express themselves in words, dogs would probably admit that they are equally puzzled by our behavior. Why, for example, do people fail to sniff others during introductions? Why do people forget to utter at least one “I mean business” bark when a delivery guy dares to ring the doorbell? And, come on, people, there’s a dead fish marinating nicely on the sandy beach — why aren’t you rolling in it?
Don’t worry. By the time you finish this section, you will possess so much more dog sense that your favorite canine pal might even come up and congratulate you with a big sloppy kiss or a quick sniff of your rear end.
Q How can I get my beagle, Jake, to stop barking whenever someone rings my doorbell, knocks on my front door, or walks past my house? A few barks are okay, but Jake barks on and on and at a volume so high that I want to take out my hearing aid so I don’t have to hear his noise. When I yell at him to stop, he ignores me and barks even louder.
A Some types of dogs are born barkers. The hound breeds, like Jake and his cousins the basset hounds, foxhounds, and bloodhounds, were bred to use their bark to communicate with their owners during hunts. In addition to their breed histories, some dogs are very territorial. In their minds, your home is their domain to defend. Jake is sounding the alarm and if we could translate his barks, he is probably saying, “Come quick! Check it out! Friend or foe? What do you want me to do? Now you’re yelling, too, so I’d better keep barking!”
As you can see, yelling at Jake to stop barking is futile, because barking dogs interpret our loud vocalizations as our attempt to join in the warning. Your yelling has unintentionally served to reinforce his yapping. You will need to re-train Jake so that he develops a new association with the sound of your doorbell. Start by ringing your doorbell. When Jake barks, ignore him. Patiently wait for him to stop. After a few seconds of silence, introduce a cue by saying hush and then reward him. Timing is critical — do not reward him until he has been quiet for several seconds. Think like a dog for a moment. If given the options, which would you choose: keep barking or hush and garner a tasty prize?
Conduct these training sessions several times a day until Jake figures out that hush means to be quiet and that being quiet brings treats, while barking brings nothing. Make the pauses between his silence and your hush cue longer and longer. Then start saying hush when he is actually barking and reward him when he stops. Remember not to keep repeating that phrase, though, because it will only reinforce Jake to continue barking.
I also have a backup training strategy: diversion. Instead of yelling at Jake when he barks at a passerby, call him to you and reward him for performing a desired behavior, like sitting in front of you for a moment or fetching his favorite toy. For safety reasons, you don’t want Jake to behave like a canine mime when someone approaches your home. It is good that he alerts you, but by trying diversionary tactics and rewarding his silences rather than his noise, you will benefit by having a better-behaved Jake who no longer irritates your ears with nonstop yapping.
Q The postal carrier comes to my house every afternoon and places mail through the slot in my front door. His arrival sets off my dog, who goes ballistic barking and lunging at the front door. Grange also launches into a barking barrage when a delivery person rings my doorbell. I’m not winning any popularity contests with my mailman or delivery people. What can I do to get Grange to calm down?
A Don’t you wish that you could just have a person-to-dog chat with Grange and explain the deal about delivery people? Unfortunately, he is abiding by a well-known doggy formula: Dog hears or sees someone in a uniform approach the front door. Dog sounds an alert to the leader of his pack (that’s you) and barks aggressively at the intruder. The intruder then retreats, leaving the dog to believe that he has successfully stopped another home invasion. The score is always Dog 1, Uniform 0 in this daily delivery game. Grange may bark out of a need to protect or out of fear or excitement, depending on his personality type, but each time this scenario occurs it cements his belief that his actions are working.
It is vital to ensure the safety of these folks in uniform. National statistics indicate that dogs bite about 3,000 postal carriers each year. For starters, there are a couple of things not to do when a delivery person arrives at your front porch. When Grange barks, do not say things like “it’s okay” or “good boy,” because that actually rewards him for barking. In his mind, he thinks that you are agreeing with his need to be a ferocious barking machine. At the same time, don’t yell at him to shut up — he’ll just think you are helping him warn off the intruder.
Here are some things you can do. First, see the previous question about teaching a barker how to hush. You also mentioned that you have a mail slot in your front door. That slot can deliver not only mail but also doggy treats. See if your postal carrier and other delivery people are willing to put treats through the slot. You can keep a sealed container of treats outside your door. The idea is to get Grange to anticipate good things when the uniformed people approach. (Sure beats junk mail!)
This technique is known as counterconditioning. You are striving to replace a bad association with a good one. If you happen to spot the mail carrier or delivery person coming up the street, you can implement a barking prevention plan. Sprinkle treats on the floor in front of your door for Grange to eat while deliveries are being made. Timing is important. You must present the treats before he makes his first bark. He cannot be madly barking while gobbling a shower of treats. It’s impossible for these two actions to occur at the same time.
Another strategy requires you to clearly step into the role of household commander so that Grange realizes when a uniformed person approaches, you will be the one who calls the shots. During this training time, you may need to fit Grange with a head halter or other tool that provides control without pain. When the uniformed person approaches, teach Grange to sit and stay while you hold the leash to accept the package in your doorway. Reward him with treats each time he complies. If you are not confident about how to put on a head halter, then seek help from your veterinarian or local dog trainer.
Instilling proper greeting behavior from the time a dog is first brought home should prevent any barking, snapping, or lunging habits from ever developing. When I brought home my first puppy, I would carry him to the door to meet and greet my delivery people. They would give him a treat and a couple more when he learned to sit on cue. As he grew up, Jazz learned that the person in uniform is like a canine Santa Claus and would happily join me at the front door. He would then plop into a sit and wait for his reward without a single bark.
Q This is a bit embarrassing, but I need your help. My otherwise polite Great Dane, Dolly, loves to greet people. Unfortunately, her style of greeting often includes rushing up to guests and sticking her nose in their crotches. Dolly is a big dog and it is difficult for me to yank her back. She is good about not jumping up on people, but some of my friends are offended by her preferred method of greeting. What can I do to stop this obnoxious behavior?
A Dolly is 100 percent dog. When dogs meet and greet each other, it is very common for them to sniff each other thoroughly from head to tail. The canine nose gives the “sniffer” a lot of details about the “sniffee” (age, health condition, what they ate for breakfast, and even their moods). They aim for the rear end because the scents are more intense there than other places on the body.
Dogs like Dolly need to learn that this doggy greeting is not well received by the two-legged crowd. Large breeds like Great Danes are generally the biggest offenders, because their noses are at just the right level to poke someone between the legs. It is not uncommon for them to do a front and a back sniff. Tiny breeds like Chihuahuas and Yorkshire terriers are more apt to be fascinated by a newcomer’s shoes or ankles, because that’s as high as they can reach.
Please don’t be too embarrassed. Plenty of dogs are guilty of this “crime,” and people shouldn’t get too huffy and offended by what is perfectly polite canine etiquette. You can teach Dolly to be a more acceptable greeter, however. The goal is to show her the preferred way to say hello while making it worth her while to change her behavior. The first step is to make sure she has a good grounding in basic obedience. All dogs, but especially giant ones like Dolly, need to be able to sit and stay when told. Reinforce those commands when the house is quiet and then have her sit and stay when a guest comes in the door. Ask your guests to approach Dolly first, rather than letting Dolly take the initiative.
Some dogs are very expressive with their front legs. If that is the case with Dolly, you can teach her to swap sniffing for paw shaking. Start by working with her by yourself. Ask her to sit. Hold out a treat in your hand positioned just below her nose. Most dogs will paw at the treat. When Dolly does this, grab her raised paw, shake it in a friendly way, say good shake or good paw, and then hand over the treat. Give her plenty of praise for a job well done.
Once Dolly is shaking paws consistently, invite friends to give her the good shake cue. If Dolly slips back to her old routine, ask the guest to simply turn around and walk a few paces away and ignore Dolly. She will soon learn that sniffing doesn’t yield her the goodies that sitting politely to shake paws does. Work on extending the time Dolly stays in a sit, too.
Finally, expand your horizon by practicing this greeting with Dolly when you are outside the home. Do it when friends approach you on the sidewalk during dog walks or when you are in the parking lot of your supermarket. The goal is to expose Dolly to a lot of situations so she learns this is an acceptable greeting for people, as long as they initiate the contact.
In extreme cases, you may need to rely on a spray bottle containing a mixture of vinegar and water or mint breath spray. Keep this spray near your door. When Dolly prepares to plunge her nose into a person’s crotch, take aim and spray her in the face (but please, avoid her eyes). The spray smells unpleasant to most dogs. This is a form of aversion therapy and is designed to create a negative experience. A few times seeing the spray bottle and your dog will quickly connect the dots and back off. I only advise this in situations involving very pushy canine greeters and I add this caution with using this type of punishment approach: cease the spray bottle approach if your dog shows any tendency to attack the spray bottle or to act aggressively at the sight of it. You don’t want your training to backfire and create a worse problem.
Q I swear that my dog, Jesse, is part duck. He loves to splash water out of his bowl with his front paws. He creates a big mess all over the kitchen floor. The bowl is empty and I keep refilling it, only to have Jesse paw out the water again. What’s going on?
A Jesse is certainly making a big splash — of the undesired kind. You shouldn’t need rubber boots to wade through your kitchen! I’m not sure what breed Jesse is, but he’s probably a water-loving breed like a Labrador retriever. These dogs are drawn to swimming and playing in water (and doing the full-body shake afterward).
Every dog-occupied home needs bowls of fresh, clean water to keep canines hydrated. I can see how tricky that can be in your home, but there are several approaches to resolve this watery mess. First, the ever-growing population of pet owners has created a big industry of new pet products. You can purchase water bowls in all shapes, sizes, and structures at pet supply stores and online. If Jesse is actually knocking over his bowl, you might consider one with a nonskid bottom. A bowl that sits off the ground on a platform might thwart his splashing efforts. You might also consider water feeder bottles that require dogs to lick at the tip to release a small flow of water (similar to those found in rabbit cages).
Another strategy is to monitor your dog’s water intake rather than leave water down for him at all times. Present the water bowl half-filled after Jesse comes in from a walk or other type of exercise and after meals. Hold the bowl down and let Jesse drink. If he starts to put his front paws into the bowl, pick it up. Wait for him to sit or become calm and then put the water bowl back down again. You are trying to convey to Jesse that his water bowl is not a source of play but only for quenching thirst. If you opt for this method, be sure you offer him water numerous times throughout the day, especially during hot weather.
Good luck with Jesse and be sure to keep plenty of paper towels and a mop handy during this transitional time.
Q I keep several water bowls around my house and always dutifully keep them filled with clean, fresh water. But Jules, my boxer, prefers lapping water out of the toilet bowl, which I find disgusting! Why does he do that? Will he get sick?
A Disgusting is a good description for this common doggy deed. But it makes sense if you think like a dog, not a civilized person who craves bottled or carbonated water with a fancy name. To a thirsty canine, the toilet simply provides a giant porcelain oasis of fresh, cool water in a huge bowl that never moves or tips over and is always full. And don’t forget about location. Bathrooms often feature tile floors that sooth canine pads on hot days. As far as Jules is concerned, the toilet is your home’s Number One water bowl.
As for germs, even if you pride yourself on keeping the cleanest bathroom in your block, your dog isn’t wowed by that fact. There is a slight risk that your dog can get sick if you pour lots of cleaning chemicals in your toilet, but in general the water in your toilet bowl is actually cleaner — and safer — than most puddles, lakes, and ponds. It’s an unfortunate fact that these public bodies of water often harbor nasty germs and parasites that can cause giardia and other illnesses in our dogs.
Another reason Jules may head to the bathroom instead of his water bowls could be the bowl itself. Plastic bowls absorb odors and may cause the water to taste off, even to a dog. Consider switching to ceramic or stainless steel water bowls that can be easily cleaned in the dishwasher.
The simplest solution to this problem is to keep the lid down. I know that it’s easier said than done; we often forget or visitors inadvertently leave it up. You can put up a sign for guests saying Please keep the lid down to keep Jules from drinking, but that won’t enhance your home décor. You may decide to keep your bathroom door closed.
A final tip: Water bowls kept in sunny places can be doggy turnoffs. Make sure that water bowls are in spots where they will keep cool. Heighten their appeal by tossing in a few ice cubes to provide a welcoming chill on particularly warm days.
Q My one-year-old foxhound is in constant search of different smells and always has his nose to the ground. I recognize that is the nature of being a scent breed, but Clyde doesn’t just stop at sniffing. Whenever he discovers something rotting and disgusting like a dead frog or fish on the beach or his favorite, road kill, he takes great delight in flopping down and rolling all over it. He smells terrible afterward. Why on earth does he do this?
A No one really knows why dogs roll in smelly stuff, but there are several theories. One is that this is an instinctive behavior harkening back to pre-domesticated days when hunting dogs would bring back information about available food to the rest of the packs. The thought was, if they found decaying fish, perhaps fresher fish could be found nearby. Some modern-day dogs may have retained this behavior even though it has lost its once-necessary function.
A second theory is that dogs roll in foul-smelling material to provide an olfactory disguise to improve their hunting opportunities. What better way to catch a rabbit, say, than to smell like one, even a dead one, rather than like a dog? This canine camouflage technique also may be employed to hide their doggy scents from other predators.
Unfortunately, dogs and owners will never agree on what smells nice and what smells disgusting. Owners carefully shampoo their dogs, rinse them, towel them dry, and brush them. To them, the dog is finally clean and smelling sweet. To the dog, however, the shampoo is a dreadful stench that needs to be disguised immediately. That explains why many freshly bathed dogs will dash outside and roll in the dirt. Some even prefer to roll in poop to cover that awful shampoo smell. It’s their version of a high-priced perfume or cologne.
When you are on walks with Clyde, keep him within sight so that you can spot him the minute he dives on a “stink bomb” and distract him from it. If he’s found something gross in a particular area, avoid that spot for a few days or leash him until you are safely beyond temptation. Always carry treats with you so that you can call him back to you when he seems too interested in something disgusting. Reinforce the leave it command, so you stand a greater chance of stopping him before he can roll in the smelly find. (See Ignoring Temptation, page 169.) For people with dogs who roll in droppings, I recommend stepping up the poop patrol in the backyard to remove that particular temptation.
Q I enjoy cats and dogs, which explains why my home includes both. But I can’t seem to keep my dog from eating feces from the litter box. What’s the attraction and how can I end Sassy’s disgusting raids on the litter box?
A You can impress your friends and expand your vocabulary by being able to speak of this behavior by its scientific name: coprophagy (stool eating). The fact that there is a fancy name for this act tells you that Sassy isn’t the only canine with this fetish, which is shared by many members of the animal kingdom. Many dogs eat the stools of other animals (rabbits, deer, and horses) and some even nibble on their own deposits.
This habit could signal a vitamin deficiency in your dog’s diet, so please consult your veterinarian if you suspect that nutrition is involved. Your dog may need to switch to a new diet that is higher in protein, fiber, or fat, or she may need vitamin B supplements. However, there are other reasons that Sassy indulges in such a revolting habit. When taking care of their litters, Sassy’s ancestors learned to ingest stools to keep their dens clean and be less likely to draw the attention of predators. Nursing bitches still clean up their whelping boxes this way when their young puppies are first born.
A second explanation is a matter of taste. Humans find the idea repulsive, but dogs are omnivores (they eat meat and veggies) and their palate differs greatly from ours. Litter box stools probably taste of cat food, which most dogs eat happily.
A third reason is that Sassy might be bored and raiding the litter box just to add some zip to her otherwise mundane day. If this is the case, make sure she has two or more regular daily walks of at least 20 minutes so that she uses up some of that extra energy. Spending a few minutes a day teaching her tricks can counter boredom as well. When you leave her alone, provide a distraction to the lure of the litter box by giving her a rawhide bone or a hollow toy stuffed with treats.
Whatever the reason, this problem can be conquered. Cats like to have their private places — dog-free zones, if you will. In my own home, I’ve placed the litter boxes in a spare bedroom and blocked access to my dog with a gate at the doorway. The gate is positioned above the floor just enough to allow the cats to slide under or leap over the top, giving them two ways to enter and exit the room. I also keep their food bowls in there, so Chipper can’t snack out of those, either.
I’ve trained Chipper to sit and stay when I enter and exit the cat room. Her politeness is rewarded each morning when I give the cats a dollop of canned food. When I leave, Chipper is patiently awaiting her own dollop, having learned that staying outside this room is worth her while.
Blocking access works until you forget to shut the doggy gate to the cat room. As a final remedy, I also recommend that you step up your “poop patrol” and clean the litter boxes more frequently. Since it can be hard to be vigilant, you might sprinkle some pancreatic enzymes (available at pet supply stores or health stores) on the litter to make the stool taste anything but doggone great to Sassy. This works only if your cats appear to be unbothered by this addition to their litter box and continue using it. You don’t want a sudden litter box boycott by your cats!
Q Every morning when I wake up, I can guarantee there will be a smelly, dirty tennis ball on my pillow. If I ignore that ball, I get a wet, cold nose in my face and lots of doggy kisses from Nelly, my year-old yellow Lab. She is a ball nut. When I take her to the local dog park, she ignores all the other dogs and just focuses on fetching ball after ball. I have to end the game after a half-hour because I’m afraid she will run herself to sheer exhaustion. Why is she so consumed with chasing a ball all the time?
A Ah, the art and obsession of the ball chase. I see a lot of dogs fitting Nelly’s actions at the various dog parks in my area. They only have eyes for their favorite toy. When they do come in contact with another dog, they give a quick greeting and go right back to their ball. Some dogs also seem to know which people are the easy marks with the best arms and will use their canine charm to persuade other people to throw the ball when their owner gets tired.
If you think about canine ancestry, chasing balls isn’t that different from chasing rabbits and other small prey. Dogs were the original eat-on-the-run types. The chase brought them a positive prize — food and a full belly. Today, our pampered pooches don’t have to pursue their meals, but that “chase and catch” instinct is still wired into the genes of many breeds, particularly the hunting breeds like retrievers and spaniels. Though most family dogs no longer hunt with their owners, they find that spongy, spit-saturated tennis ball as satisfying as a downed duck would be. In contrast, you won’t find many Shih Tzus or Akitas begging for marathon ball-tossing sessions. It’s just not in their breed history.
Obviously, Nelly is getting plenty of exercise, but it appears that she has crossed the line from being fit to becoming fanatical. The morning ritual also signals to me that Nelly views herself as the one calling the shots — the minute you wake up, she is forcing you to pay attention to her. She is young, but you don’t want to run the risk of her developing into a ball bully. Since you know that the tennis ball motivates Nelly, use it to your advantage in establishing yourself firmly as leader. For starters, put all tennis balls and other similar temptations away at bedtime. Some people stash all balls and Frisbees outside and don’t allow any indoor ball play at all.
Bring out the tennis ball only when you decide it is time to play fetch. With each throw, reinforce Nelly’s manners by having her sit and stay for a few seconds or more before you toss the ball again. Use this time to teach Nelly the drop it and leave it cues. If she doesn’t want to drop or leave the ball, bring out a second ball and offer to throw it if she drops the first one. Work on your recall as well, so that she is paying attention to you and not just the ball during your play sessions.
On those occasions when there are dogs at the dog park who aren’t chasing balls, see if you can work on Nelly’s dog-to-dog social skills by stashing her toys in a bag out of sight temporarily and encouraging her to play some doggy games instead. Or, invite a couple of friends with friendly canines over to your backyard or basement for playtime without any toys, especially balls.
I applaud you for knowing when enough is enough and ending the ball-throwing game. Dogs can run themselves into exhaustion by not knowing when to quit, especially in hot weather. Please be sure to provide Nelly with plenty of water afterward. I recommend always keeping a water bottle and a plastic bowl in the car in case the water at the dog park is dirty or your dog doesn’t realize she is thirsty until you are back at the car.
Q My dog will occasionally eat grass and then vomit a few moments later. He seems fine and I don’t detect any health problem. What’s the deal with dogs and grass? I thought they were meat eaters.
A Dogs like a little variety in their diet and know the value of adding some greens to the menu. They are actually omnivores, which means they eat meat and vegetation — not to mention kibble from any available cat bowl (feline food always seems to have a more beckoning aroma), table scraps in your kitchen garbage can (if you forget to put on the lid), and all sorts of other things at which humans turn up their noses.
Some dogs frequently eat grass and don’t throw up afterward. They may simply like the taste and feel the need to add some roughage to their regular meals. This pertains more to those dogs who actually chew and swallow the grass blades thoroughly. Grass can also act as a healthful aid for dogs with upset stomachs who need to purge their systems. In that case, you might notice that they seem to almost gobble the grass without really chewing the blades. The prickly little stalks irritate their stomach linings and cause them to vomit. That sounds like the case with your dog. If this occurs only occasionally, let nature take its course. But if he is vomiting daily and isn’t eating well, please consult your veterinarian. There may be an underlying medical reason behind this behavior.
Grass is fine for dogs when it is free of pesticides, lawn chemicals, or other harmful substances. I recommend that you grow a container of grass for your dog to nibble on indoors or provide him with a patch of special greens in your backyard. You will be offering food that offers certain vitamins, minerals, and fiber not found in the meat in his food bowl. And don’t forget to entice his taste buds by adding some cooked or raw vegetables, such as green beans or carrots, to his food bowl.
Q I live in Indiana, where we have nasty thunderstorms that throw my dog into a four-legged panic. She whines and whimpers when the storms approach and then tries desperately to hide under my bed or in my bathtub. She shivers with fright. Why do thunderstorms cause this strong reaction?
A Sadly, your dog is not alone. Even before that first thunder boom or lightning flash, many dogs scurry into closets, crawl under beds, or leap into bathtubs. Some even try to dig through the carpet in a desperate attempt to hide, or crash through windows or doors to escape the terrifying noise. Fear of uncontrollable situations is a natural response in people and animals, but if fear worsens with repeated exposure to the stimuli, it can become a phobia. A phobia is defined as a fear that is out of proportion to the danger of the actual situation or event. There is nothing wrong with being afraid of walking on an icy sidewalk, for example, unless it causes you to stay inside all winter.
Without proper intervention, phobias escalate with repeated exposure to the stimulus. For dogs, phobias often involve loud noises, such as the sound of thunderstorms, the backfire from a car, or skateboard wheels scraping on pavement. Dogs have been known to physically harm themselves — and others — in their attempts to escape these frightening sounds.
The first step in dealing with a fearful or anxious dog is to schedule a complete physical examination with your veterinarian to rule out any possible underlying medical problem, such as hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, or other condition. Anxiety-reducing medications can help some dogs with phobias, but it is also vital to reinforce basic obedience behaviors like sit, down, and stay, and to teach them to focus on an activity that distracts from the sound of the storm. Be sure to provide your pet with tasty treats during these training sessions.
Desensitization is often paired with counterconditioning. Desensitization uses baby steps to build your dog’s confidence. If he is afraid of loud noises, you expose him to the sound at low volume and reward him for being calm. You can purchase CDs of storm sounds at music stores or online. As he continues to demonstrate no fear, you gradually increase the volume. Counterconditioning associates the presence of the trigger (an approaching storm, for instance) with a positive experience such as eating or playing. You can also teach your dog to down stay in his crate or on a mat or other safe place when there are no storms around. Once he learns this relaxation behavior, you can teach him to settle down in that safe place during a storm.
These techniques require patience and make take quite a bit of time, so don’t expect an instant cure. Never punish a fearful pet by yelling or striking, because such actions can worsen his phobias and anxieties. Instead, touch your dog gently and speak calmly to reassure him but avoid excessive displays of concern or petting. Speak in upbeat tones, act happy, and divert your pet’s attention to a treat or fun activity. Your goal is to deliver a message that the storm is no big deal.
Even with careful training, some pets need medications to conquer phobias. Some over-the-counter herbal or homeopathic remedies or pheromone diffusers may ease anxiety levels. For severe cases, however, antianxiety or antidepressant medications may be necessary. Work closely with your veterinarian in selecting and monitoring the effect these medications have on your dog. It is not uncommon for veterinarians to adjust the dosage or switch to a different medication when treating thunderstorm phobias. Be aware that some prescriptions must be given daily for up to one month before they are effective. Others work on an as-needed basis. The long-term goal is to eventually wean your dog from medications, although some dogs may need medications for their entire lives.
RHETT, AN 18-MONTH-OLD neutered Norfolk terrier, appeared to be an ideal dog, but he had been behaving strangely for two months. His owner, Tanya, described him as unable to sit still and constantly “air licking” (a distinct behavior where a dog repetitively flicks its tongue in the air) and snapping at imaginary flies. These odd displays occurred on and off during the day but seemed worse in the early evening. Tanya could sometimes stop Rhett’s behavior by bribing him with food, giving him a massage, or taking him for a walk, but his frantic activity was increasing, which prompted her to seek my help.
The major relevant fact in this case was that the family was in the process of moving. In some dogs, tail chasing and fly snapping have been associated with partial seizures. But in Rhett’s case, the start of his odd behavior was clearly triggered by changes in the household due to the planned relocation. The sight of packing boxes seemed quite stressful for Rhett.
His anxiety also seemed to be caused in part by Rosie, the family’s second Norfolk terrier, who was younger and had been adopted after Rhett. She pestered Rhett more than he liked during playtime and on walks. I noted that he was showing stress-related displacement behavior that had the potential to develop into compulsive behavior.
To start our multifaceted approach, Rhett was given a low dose of an antianxiety medication after his veterinarian ruled out any underlying medical causes. Tanya began to reinforce Rhett’s place as the senior-ranking dog by ensuring that he was always ahead of Rosie when receiving meals, toys, and attention, and going outdoors. He also benefited from having time to play with his toys away from Rosie and from longer daily walks and other exercise.
When treating compulsive disorders, it is vital to either minimize exposure or desensitize the dog to the stressor that is triggering the behavior. Since the disruption of the move couldn’t be avoided, Tanya diverted Rhett by hiding food in hollow dog toys and burying toys and treats in the backyard for him to discover by digging. This shifted his energy from compulsive flank licking and fly snapping to busily finding goodies. As just having everything boxed up and in disarray was stressful, we made the boxes fun by teaching him to jump on and off them, run the gauntlet, and find hidden treats among them.
After the move to the new home and the introduction of new canine ranking rules for Rhett and Rosie, Rhett’s compulsive ways steadily subsided and his gentle, calm nature returned. This is a case where early intervention helped prevent the escalation of strange behaviors.
Contributed by Alice Moon-Fanelli, PhD
Q When we’re at work, we keep Sally, our 10-month-old Border collie, in our kitchen, which is gated to keep her from running around the house. For some reason, Sally hates our dishwasher. She barks at it when it’s running. She lunges at the door handle when we try to open it. At first we laughed, but now her behavior is no joking matter. Why is she doing this and how can we keep her from destroying our appliance?
A I thought I had the only dishwasher-hating dog. My corgi Jazz had nothing but disdain for my dishwasher. Any attention paid to that appliance would cause him to bark, lunge, growl, and physically try to wrestle the handle (which looked pretty silly). My dishwasher had teeth marks on the door handle and scratches all over the front. Like Sally, Jazz was a herding dog. Herding breeds can be stubborn and determined; after all, they must dodge kicking cows and sheep while moving them from one place to the next. Herding dogs are also highly intelligent and energetic. These dogs need jobs, because boredom brings out their worst behaviors.
You need to give the dishwasher a new identity — one that is either boring or appealing to Sally, not annoying. One way to circumvent a quirky problem like this and prevent it from escalating into physical harm or a wider hatred of other noise-producing appliances is to limit exposure to the dishwasher. You mentioned that she is kept in your kitchen during the day. Perhaps you could put her in a different safe place in your home while you’re away.
Everyone in your household needs to play by the same rules when it comes to the dishwasher. Since your kitchen is gated, put Sally on the other side of the gate when you load and unload the dishes. Perhaps someone in your house can distract her in another room or even play a game of fetch with her in the backyard while another person deals with the dishes. Or put her in her crate in a bedroom with music on to muffle the sound of the dishes. The idea is to limit her exposure to this “menacing” machine. While you are working on this problem, try to run the dishwasher only at night when she is safe inside your bedroom or her crate or at other times when Sally won’t be in the kitchen. This may be impractical in the long run, however, so you might want to take the opposite approach and convince her that the dishwasher is not dangerous. The idea is to build a history of fun times associated with the appliance. A dog cannot be happy and angry at the same time. No one can.
If she is ball- or treat-motivated, start by having her sit and wait for the ball or treat in a room near the kitchen. Gradually, bring her closer and closer until she is sitting next to the dishwasher. Have her sit and stay while you touch the dishwasher. (Don’t open it yet!) If she stays quiet, reward her with a treat or a minute of ball tossing. You may need to keep her on a leash at first so you can step on the leash to stop her if she attempts to attack the dishwasher. Slowly work your way up to opening the door a few inches at a time while rewarding her for sitting still.
When Sally consistently ignores the dishwasher and will sit or play fetch near it, increase the exposure a bit by placing premium treats on the opened lid of the dishwasher. Again, have Sally perform a trick before she is allowed to take these treats. Once she’s comfortable with the silent dishwasher, try turning it on for a second or two, shutting it off, and rewarding her for behaving calmly. Add a few seconds at a time while continuing to reward proper behavior.
Remember, the biggest mistake people make is to try to go too quickly, which usually makes the problem worse. It may take days, weeks, or even months, but eventually Sally will build up enough memorable experiences involving treats and toys near the dishwasher that she will gain a new appreciation for this appliance.
Q When she’s playing, my puppy crouches down, wiggles her body, and then leaps up in the air as if she has springs in her legs, landing on her favorite toys. She grabs them and shakes them back and forth, growling. It’s comical to watch, but what is she doing?
A Your puppy is doing what comes naturally: She is practicing the age-old art of hunting and “killing” her prey. Okay, so the prey in this case happens to be a stuffed plush hamburger from the local pet store. Why ruin your puppy’s fun?
Her leaping and pouncing represent scripted actions of the chase response and can be seen in wild canids all over the world as they hunt mice and other small animals in grass and snow. This behavior starts to surface in puppies by about five weeks of age. Coyote and fox pups imitate the stalking, pouncing, and killing actions of adults to learn vital skills. For domestic dogs, this behavior in puppies is still an important part of the physical and mental growth process of puppyhood. Unless your puppy becomes very aggressive or possessive over her toys, enjoy these leaping moments of pure puppy play.
Q I adopted my dog a few months ago, and my best guess is that she is a beagle-Labrador mix between two and three years old. Belle loves going to new places and exploring new sights, sounds, and smells. But for some reason, she is absolutely terrified of skateboards. She yanks the leash and tries desperately to flee the scene. What is going on and how can I help her be less afraid?
A If only our dogs could communicate in plain English about the reasons behind their fears. Clearly, Belle has some negative association with skateboards, but you’ll never know exactly what it is. It may be as simple as the fact that the scraping sound irritates her ears, much like fingernails on a chalkboard send some students into spasms. More likely, she had a negative experience involving a skateboard when she was a puppy. The wheels could have rolled over her toes or she could have collided with a fast-moving skateboarder and been injured. Unfortunately, she might have been teased by kids on skateboards, although in that case you could expect her to be afraid of children as well.
Your best option is to work on a remedy. Keep your ears tuned on walks for the sound of a skateboard in the distance. Belle’s ears are better than yours, so watch her for signs of nervousness and react promptly to get her attention. The goal is to try to intervene with a positive experience as the sound gets closer. Distract Belle by speaking to her in an upbeat tone and asking her to practice some of her favorite tricks like sitting up, shaking paws, or rolling over — all while on a leash for safety. Carry a pouch of doggy treats and dole them out as the skateboard goes by.
Another tactic is to borrow an old skateboard from a neighbor or friend or buy one at a garage sale. The strategy calls for you to gradually introduce the skateboard to Belle so that she gains a new association with these wheeled wonders. Put the skateboard in one room of your house, but don’t roll it. Each time Belle walks by it or cautiously goes up to investigate it, toss her a treat.
As she becomes accustomed to the skateboard, try placing treats on it. Praise her when she takes these treats. Once Belle consistently approaches the skateboard without hesitation, place a few treats on the skateboard and slowly move it a few inches forward and backward. Do this on carpeting first to keep the wheels quiet. Encourage Belle to grab the treats while the skateboard is moving. When she shows no fear of indoor skateboards, go outdoors and gradually increase the movement and sound on your garage floor or driveway.
Finally, solicit the aid of a dog-friendly skateboarder. Ask your helper to walk up to Belle holding the skateboard in his hands. Have him give Belle treats for being brave enough to approach and check out the skateboard. Later, as Belle’s confidence builds, ask him to roll the skateboard on the ground with his hand. Keep rewarding her at each stage.
The speed of your progress depends on your attention to Belle’s responses. Never advance to the next level of exposure until Belle clearly demonstrates no fear at the current level. The more positive exposure Belle accumulates, the better the chance that she won’t try to dodge and dash when a skateboard approaches on your walks.
Q My dachshund, Danny, is a very confident fellow. He goes boldly up to larger dogs at the dog park and solicits them to play. He doesn’t blink during thunderstorms and loves to greet visitors to my home. The problem is that I have recently moved to a condominium on the second floor with outside stairs. Danny dashes up the stairs, but when we need to leave, he freezes at the top of the stairs and I have to pick him up and carry him down. What happened to his confidence?
A There are a number of reasons for dogs not wanting to tackle stairs, even enclosed ones. Danny’s reluctance could be due to a medical condition, such as arthritis or hip dysplasia, so have that possibility checked out first. A key clue in this particular situation may be that outdoor stairs are often open, without solid risers between the steps. Danny is no dummy. To him, these stairs give him glimpses of the pavement far below, a vision as inviting as peering over the edge of a cliff.
Many dogs run easily up a flight of stairs but find the prospect of heading back down intimidating because they are less stable going down and more likely to slip or become unbalanced. Some dogs try to avoid stairs at all cost because of memories of a spill. Who wants to repeat that scary scenario?
It’s tempting to give in to those pleading eyes and to offer him some soothing words and carry him down the stairs. But the problem with this is that it unintentionally fosters apprehension in your dog and can cause him to be even more fearful. Forget trying to scold Danny, too. Bullying him to go down the stairs solo without addressing his fear will only generate more behavior problems and weaken your relationship.
Instead, take it literally one step at a time with food rewards. Some of my favorite dog trainers recommend placing a mediocre treat (an ordinary dog biscuit) on the first step and then an irresistible treat (a piece of chicken breast or bacon) on the next step. Without saying a word or giving any nudges, let Danny scope out the situation with his nose and his eyes. Once he is brave enough to touch the stair with his paws, or even conquer one step to get the premium treat, heap on the praise as if he won an Oscar.
You won’t be able to get Danny to be a stair champion, descending swiftly after one training session. Work a few minutes each day to expand his comfort level by placing the best treats on steps farther and farther down. During this transition when you are still toting him down the stairs, try whistling or singing a happy tune while striding confidently down the stairs. Danny may pick up on your cue that the stairs are not so scary after all.
Q We just replaced the carpet in our home with what we thought would be more pet-friendly flooring of tile and laminate. These smooth surfaces are much easier to keep clean and clear of pet hair, but Kelsey, our golden retriever, took a spill while turning a corner too fast during an indoor game of chasing a tennis ball with our teenage son. Now she is afraid of the footing and walks gingerly around the house. How can we restore Kelsey’s confidence so she doesn’t slink around the house?
A Your floors are pet friendly in that the materials make it easy to clean up puddles or other accidents, but they lack the traction that dogs need to move confidently around the house. Barring any physical injury, the spill probably made Kelsey feel a bit like Bambi on ice with legs splaying in all directions. To help her feel steady on her feet again, I recommend no more indoor chasing games with your son for a while!
Instead, guide her around the house on a long leash and encourage her to move slowly in different rooms and in different directions by luring her with great treats, like pieces of chicken. The idea is to rebuild her confidence and reassure her that she doesn’t have to creep around like a snail. Strategically placed rugs with nonskid backing around doorways, in hallways, and in the center of larger rooms will give Kelsey more confidence when navigating.
It’s also important to give Kelsey a suitable outlet to unleash her need for speed. Make sure she is getting enough exercise so that she doesn’t have excess energy to burn inside. Convert casual strolls around the block into walks that cover more ground at a faster pace. Play fetch with her or treat her to playtime at a doggy day care or dog park. When she comes back home, she will be a tired and happy dog who is less apt to want to dash around indoors.
Finally, reinforce the sit, stay, and lie down cues so that during times you need to wash floors, or when a spill occurs, you can adequately control Kelsey’s movement while you thoroughly dry your floor.
Q My Jack Russell terrier, Dexter, pesters me whenever I am trying to have a phone conversation. He barks, yips, tries to jump in my lap, and brings toys for me to toss. I used to think it was cute, but now I find it irritating. Why won’t he leave me alone?
A Put yourself in your dog’s place for a moment. As far as he can see, there is no one else in the room, but you’re vocalizing. Naturally, he thinks you’re talking to him. But when he responds, you ignore him, so he persists in trying to get your attention. If you do respond, in an effort to make him settle down, you are actually rewarding his irritating behavior. Unchecked attention-seeking behaviors can develop into serious behavior problems. Forcing you to pay attention to him gives your dog the wrong idea about who is the real leader in the house.
Since you used to regard this as cute, I imagine that you unintentionally encouraged this habit when Dexter was a wee pup. Now that he is bigger and bolder, his adorable act has become awfully annoying. It’s time for a telephone intervention. If you can, use a phone in a room with a door and shut him outside while you’re talking, even if it means telling your caller to wait a moment while you switch phones. Keep a chew toy or long-lasting treat within reach and toss it to him as you enter the room to talk on the phone.
Another option is to teach him that when the phone rings, he is to go to his crate, where he’ll get a treat. You can start by putting him there before you dial a phone call so that he gets used to the idea of leaving you alone while you talk. Then practice by calling your home number with your cell phone and letting it ring a few times while you first reward him for sitting calmly, and then for staying, and then for going to his crate. As with all training, you will need to move in small steps to accomplish your goal.
Perhaps the most effective technique in the long run is to extinguish the behavior by completely ignoring Dexter when you are on the phone. In the beginning, practice by talking into your phone without dialing. Remain standing to keep him from jumping up or depositing toys in your lap. Turn your back on him and do not look at him or speak to him. Be prepared for his annoying behavior to increase at first, as he will work harder to get your attention. It takes time for the cold-shoulder routine to work and for your dog to start realizing that his actions don’t generate any attention from you, good or bad. When he leaves you alone, and after you end your call, go over to him calmly and tell him good settle, and give him a treat for being a well-mannered dog. Jack Russells (now called Parson Russells by the American Kennel Club), like most terriers, can be quite persistent and creative. Be glad he hasn’t figured out a way to get his own cell phone!
Q Why does my dog seem so interested in burying his bones and even some of his favorite stuffed toys in the backyard? Even worse, he sometimes digs them up and brings the muddy mess back inside the house — always smiling and wagging his tail.
A Doggy doors have their benefits and their downsides. Some of my friends have the same complaint about their dogs. No one likes to come home and find muddy paw prints and smears from unburied canine treasures all over the floors.
Thousands of years ago, dogs did not know where their next meal would come from, so after a kill they would bury any uneaten food to hide it from scavengers. When they were hungry again, they would return to their cache and dig up their leftovers. The dirt also helped keep their food fresher longer by protecting it from sunlight. Your dog is just following that ancestral urge. Even though you feed your dog every day, you can’t take that “must stash food for a hungry day” mentality out of him. The same goes for those extra toys he stashes away. Be glad he doesn’t take other household items like the TV remote or your wallet — both have been known to disappear!
Keep in mind that dogs tend to bury extras, not essentials. Patrol your house and pick up any spare dog bones or toys. Limit his access to one bone and one toy at a time. Vary the type of dog bones and toys from time to time to keep him interested. By limiting the quantity and providing variety, you may lessen his motivation to take his treasures out to the backyard. Make his favorite digging spots less attractive by covering them with chicken wire or bricks or other objects that are not paw-friendly. And try offering your dog a less-destructive indoor option: Show him how he can bury his favorite bone or toy under a blanket instead.
Q Growing up, I loved to watch Lassie, but my childhood dogs never seemed to pay attention to the television set. Now I enjoy programs on my wide, flat-screen TV and am interested to note that my dog seems to pay close attention to what’s happening on the screen. He even barks when he hears a doorbell ringing on the TV and races to my front door. Why do some dogs seem to watch TV and others ignore it? What attracts them, the sight or the sound or both?
A Although some TV shows these days have gone to the dogs in terms of quality, it’s not the programming that draws canine attention. Dogs do not see televised images as clearly as we do, but they certainly pick up the sounds. One reason for the difference between your childhood dog and your current companion might be that television sets during the Lassie days were far less clear and crisp than the vivid images and true-to-life sounds being delivered to flat-screen TVs of the digital age.
Even with modern technology, however, some dogs completely ignore the sights and sounds of all television programs. Others perk up when they hear a doorbell ring or a dog bark or a fire engine sound on TV. Some dogs seem to have a favorite movie that they will sit and watch intently. Others may paw at the moving images on the screen. One dog I know goes crazy when any kind of animal appears — she tries to jump into the TV and has to be removed from the room! Other dogs just aren’t interested or may even realize that the sounds aren’t worth making a fuss over.
If you have a canine TV watcher, consider putting in a dog-themed movie or invite him to join you when you watch dog shows or agility events. You can even buy video or DVD programs specifically designed to interest dogs. Some people leave their television sets on when they leave their dogs home alone to provide some familiar background noise.
Q Rocky, my boxer, is neutered, but that doesn’t seem to matter to him. When visitors come over, Rocky runs up to greet and sniff and then tries to hump their legs. I am so embarrassed. Why does he do this, and how can I break him of this bad habit?
A Although intact male dogs are the most frequent offenders, neutered males and even spayed females are capable of humping legs and other objects. While it is usually viewed as a sexual action, some dogs mount as a form of play or when overexcited and unsure of the correct behavior. In your case, humping may be the way Rocky is alerting new guests that he is a powerful pooch. In neutered males and spayed females, humping signifies a bit of dominance and daring to push the boundaries. Your dog is challenging you and others to see how far he can assert himself with humans. It is vital to stop this habit before it escalates to more aggressive types of behavior. If your dog gets away with humping, he may begin growling and air-snapping at guests.
The peak time for this behavior to surface is during the challenging teen years, which for dogs fall between six months and two years, depending on the specific breed. The smaller the dog, in general, the faster the maturation. In Rocky’s case, his physical strength and size might be spurring him on to continue humping since he can get away with it. He needs to learn that you are the leader of his pack and that guests also outrank him.
Breaking your dog of this habit will take time and patience. Start by making Rocky work for his needs and desires so that he understands that he has been demoted. He must sit to greet people, lie down and wait before receiving his food bowl, and wait at doorways for people to go through before him. (See Paying the Price, page 156.) To show Rocky what is acceptable behavior, put him on a leash when he is greeting people and tell him to sit and wait for them to come to him. Step on the leash and sharply tell him stop when he starts showing too much interest in their legs. If his behavior persists, discuss with your vet the possibility of temporarily using an antianxiety medication as an adjunct measure to let some air out of his Big Dog ego and to chill his libido.
You don’t mention whether Rocky acts this way with other dogs, but I see humping at dog parks far too often. Size doesn’t seem to matter, and sometimes the humping dog is smaller than the object of his mounting. A dog may mount another dog because he is confused about how to act when first meeting new dogs. Mounting is also an assertive way to show who ranks as top dog, literally. The “humper’s” victory over the “humpee” is a way that dogs in the wild determine without fighting who earns the right to procreate with the best available bitches in the pack.
You can’t always stop another person’s dog from humping your dog, but you can teach your dog some defensive postures that may curb the mount-minded canine. If possible, get your dog to sit. A sitting dog is not as easy to hump as a standing one. You can also call your dog over to you. If possible, use your body to block access to your dog. Try to distract the other dog by tossing a tennis ball in the opposite direction.
Q Often when my dog wakes up from a nap, he will start circling around to chase and try to catch his tail. He seems very determined to catch his tail. He spins around and around and seems almost frantic. I found it amusing at first, but now, it’s a little disconcerting. What’s the reason he does this?
A Researchers do not know why dogs chase their tails, but offer the theory that as predators, dogs instinctively react to movement. The blurry movement of a tail may be mistaken for a squirrel or rabbit and then the chase is on — in circles. Even tail-less dogs will romp around in circles on occasion. As long as the circling is done infrequently and stops within a few seconds, chalk it up to one of those weird but harmless canine behaviors.
For the occasional tail chaser, the answer may be as simple as a way to break up the monotony of a ho-hum afternoon. In mild forms, it can be the canine equivalent of people who twirl their hair, tap their feet, or smack their chewing gum. Some dogs seem to chase their tails to unleash bottled-up energy after being cooped up in a crate for a few hours or, like your dog, after a long nap. Tail chasing offers a quick, easy way to get their muscles moving and their blood flowing. Some dogs discover that tail chasing rewards them by attracting attention. If you react by laughing, applauding, or offering treats, your dog quickly learns this is a good way to catch your eye and increase the handouts.
Some dogs, however, become tail-chasing addicts out of feelings of anxiety in stressful situations or because of a compulsive condition that requires professional help — and medication — from your veterinarian. If your dog’s behavior persists for more than a moment after a nap, or you notice him grabbing at his tail, distract him with a favorite toy or treat. Give him a more acceptable behavior to perform like fetching a ball or Frisbee or joining you on a long, brisk walk in a place with lots of great scents to sniff.
Without intervention, a chronic tailchaser risks injury. Some dogs actually catch their tails and can hurt themselves by pulling and biting them. In extreme cases, these dogs may not stop even for food or to play with another dog. They literally spin so much that they collapse in sheer exhaustion on the floor. Bull terriers and German shepherds seem to be more genetically predisposed to tail chasing. (See Rhett Overcomes Anxiety, page 120, for more.)
Please do not encourage your dog to chase his tail or to follow the motions of a laser penlight or moving shadow. Either can become an obsessive or compulsive action.
Q Snickers, my yellow Labrador retriever, loves chewing on her plastic food bowl and anything within reach in our house that is made from plastic, such as soda bottles and storage bins. She is about nine months old. I’m worried that she will swallow bits of plastic and choke. I would also like to stop the destruction of household items. Why does she do this and how can I stop her?
A When it comes to Labrador retrievers, my veterinarian friend, Marty Becker, sums it up best by saying: “Labs chew ’til they’re two and shed ’til they’re dead.” By this age, your puppy should be finished teething, but she is a natural-born chewer who needs a way to work her jaws. Snickers cannot distinguish a dog chew toy from the TV remote. She is on a constant quest to find something, anything, to chew.
First of all, any household with a puppy needs to be thoroughly puppy proofed so that tempting objects are out of sight and reach, and access is restricted to certain rooms. Young dogs, especially breeds like Labs, will occasionally nibble on shoes or try a taste test on the corner of your end table. It’s part of the normal growing up and exploring the environment stage. Snickers needs a suitable focus for her oral fixation such as beef- or chicken-flavored chew bones or hollow toys made of very durable, dog-resistant rubber that can be stuffed with treats. Both come in an array of sizes, shapes, and textures. Make sure you provide her with items that are specifically meant for chewing, rather than playing.
Snickers sounds like a good candidate for crate training, so you can control her environment when you can’t actively supervise her. Regular exercise every day should also help curb her urge for inedible items. A quick and easy solution is to replace her plastic food and water bowls with others made of ceramic or stainless steel. These materials are easy to clean but hard to chew and won’t retain the scent of food the way plastic does.
Spray Bitter Apple or sprinkle cayenne pepper on the objects of Snicker’s attention, if they can’t be put out of her reach. If she does pick up an inappropriate object in her mouth, startle her by clapping your hands or making a loud noise and saying leave it! Reinforce the leave it command by immediately presenting her with a more suitable object to mouth and heaping on the praise. The idea is to stop her from chewing on the wrong items by rewarding her for chewing the right items.
Please do not resort to scolding or grabbing her by the scruff of the neck. These forms of punishments won’t help her understand what you want, but may cause her to become anxious and lose trust in you.
Q Usually when she settles down for a nap, Maizie, my 11-year-old mixed breed dog, does the classic “turn around a few times before lying down” move. But sometimes she starts digging at the sofa and won’t stop until she has made a big mess out of the slipcover. Once in a while, she will rumple up the runner in the hallway and then leave it there and go sleep somewhere else. Sometimes she digs and bites at her bed so much that it gets all lumpy and then she doesn’t want to lie on it! It often seems like she is more interested in trampling and digging than snoozing. Why does she do this?
A Your furniture-remodeling canine is tapping her ancient canine heritage when she circles, digs, and tramples. Well before the invention of sofas, blankets, and hallway runners, dogs in the wild had to sleep in the open if they weren’t near a den. At bedtime, Maizie’s ancestors huddled together for warmth and protection. Circling provided room for all to stake out a territory while remaining close. To protect themselves, they dug into the ground and trampled down the grass and other vegetation to make a nest far bigger than they needed. The reason? They wanted to project the idea that they were bigger than their actual size as a way to fool possible predators. If these nesting areas appeared large, the predator might decide to go elsewhere and hunt for a smaller, more vulnerable target.
Since she doesn’t need to make a safe nest, Maizie’s pawing and digging at blankets on the floor or rumpling the hallway runner are probably just her ways of making those items more comfortable for napping, just as many humans fuss with their pillows and blankets to make them feel just right before they sleep. After all her efforts to flatten them out or fluff them up, she may decide that they just won’t work out as a makeshift bed, so she leaves the scene in search of a more suitable spot for snoozing.
