Your home should be your castle, not a palace of canine chaos. Who wants to enter the front door and be tackled by a blur of fur? Or cancel a date because your dog growls at your boyfriend? Or lose a good night’s sleep because your poodle hogs the pillow? Yet when it comes to who actually spends the most time in our homes, dogs win paws down. No longer delegated to the backyard, most pet dogs are regarded as valued members of the family. Adding dogs to the mix of spouses, children, housemates, and other pets can make it a challenge to achieve harmony in your home.
Each person and each species needs to understand and honor the house rules to prevent snarling and snapping. Fortunately, dogs crave consistency and value hierarchy. They depend on us to teach them proper canine etiquette around babies, children, and houseguests. They look to us to learn if the sofa can be a comfy sanctuary or if it is off-limits. Our dogs can’t contribute to paying the mortgage, but their presence in our lives can be a priceless pleasure if they know their place in the pack.
Q Laddie is a high-energy Border collie mix we adopted as a puppy about a year ago. We love him, but he wants to play with us constantly and he never seems to tire. If we ignore him, he grabs a toy and shoves it in front of our faces or drops it in our laps so we’ll toss it for him to retrieve. We take him to the local dog park a couple of times a week where he zooms around and seems to enjoy himself.
We’re thinking about getting a second dog in the hope of giving Laddie a playmate to romp with so that he doesn’t demand so much of our attention. We’ve visited a few local animal shelters, but we want to know what we should look for in a second dog and how to properly introduce a new dog to our home.
A Border collies are notoriously energetic and active, so it’s not surprising that Laddie is always on the go. You are right to provide him with suitable outlets like visits to a dog park, but once or twice a week won’t cut it, especially for a dog this young and spirited. He needs a lot of exercise, including brisk walks, at least twice a day, that last 20 minutes or more.
The fact that Laddie enjoys dog parks is a good sign that he likes canine company. Use your dog park outings to scope out what type of dogs he seems to enjoy the most. Look for the dog’s personality more than the breed. Laddie would probably do best with a dog equal to his playful manner and high energy level.
Once you have narrowed down a list of three or four potential candidates at your local shelter, you’re ready to test compatibility. Arrange a time at the shelter to bring Laddie to meet each dog one at a time. Many shelters provide meet-and-greet areas for just this purpose. Introductions need to be conducted on neutral turf, not at your home, to reduce the likelihood of Laddie eyeing the other dog as a territorial intruder.
Set yourself and Laddie up for success by bringing a dog-savvy friend or family member to assist you. You should each have a pocketful of tasty treats. Your goal is to make this an upbeat, positive event for both dogs. Take Laddie on his leash as your friend keeps the other dog on his leash. Speak in a happy voice and let the two dogs briefly do the “canine handshake” (sniffing each other’s butts). Dogs are more likely to become aggressive if they are face to face, so avoid a head-on confrontation. After 10 seconds or so, separate the two dogs. Give them each a treat.
If the dogs behave, you’re ready for the second step: taking them for a short walk. Position the dogs on the outside with you and your friend in the middle; don’t let them wander too far in front of you at first. Continue talking to them in a positive voice. Stop occasionally, ask them to sit, and give them treats. Then continue walking. Periodically let them approach each other for an updated sniff. If they seem relaxed, you can give them some more room on the leashes, but be careful of tangles if they start to play. After a successful walk, let them loose together in an enclosed space, if one is available. Dogs often act very differently when leashed — many are actually better at making friends off-leash, because it is less confining.
During this introduction, pay close attention to each dog’s posture. Good signs include play bowing, open mouths with relaxed facial muscles, and one acting submissive to the other (by lying down and exposing his belly for the other to sniff). Be wary if either dog bares his teeth, emits deep growls, stares directly, or assumes a stiff-legged stance. If this happens, see if you can diffuse the tension by calling the dog over to you, asking him to sit, and giving a treat. What you want is for the dog to abandon that aggressive posture and relax. If it works, you can let the dogs interact again, but a bit farther apart than the first time and for a briefer duration. If the dogs do not warm up to each other within a few minutes, this is not a good fit.
Once you do find a shelter dog that seems to get along with Laddie, it’s time to see how they do at your home. Most shelters will agree to a trial period so that adoptive owners can make sure the new dog fits in with the family. Bring Laddie (and your friend) with you when you pick up the new dog, but separate them during the car ride home, preferably in their own crates. Once you arrive home, take them both out of the car on leashes. Walk them a bit and see how they act outside before bringing them inside your home. (Give them time to relieve themselves first!)
You need to support the resident, and therefore senior, dog in your home, so bring Laddie in before your friend enters with the shelter dog. This gives a clear signal to the new dog that Laddie, at least for now, is the top dog. Once they become pals and the new dog feels comfortable in your home, the true dominant dog will emerge. It may be Laddie or the shelter dog. Top dog is always greeted first, fed first, and allowed to lead the other on walks.
Do not let the two dogs be off-leash unsupervised until you are certain they get along. It might be a good idea to have another person accompany you on walks for the first few days, so that each dog has his own handler in case of problems. But from your description, Laddie sounds like a dog who will enjoy having a four-legged playmate.
Q I have a whippet, Greta, and a Border collie, Lex. Both are rescues whom I adopted last year within a couple of months of each another. Greta is about three and Lex is perhaps four years old. Whenever I rub Greta’s belly or give her any special attention, Lex seems to appear out of nowhere and starts to paw at my arm or even lets out a slight growl at Greta. Is Lex acting jealous? How can I give Greta some one-on-one time without Lex butting in?
A You won’t find envy in the canine dictionary, but the phrase “mine, mine, mine” certainly exists. Lex’s behavior is triggered more by resource guarding than by jealousy over the attention Greta receives. Watch closely the next time Greta and Lex play with a toy and you can identify clear canine communication. Chances are that one will body block the other or lift an upper lip or make steady eye contact — signals that possession is nine-tenths of the law in the land of dogs. As hunters and pack animals, dogs have always demonstrated a “this is mine” attitude toward other canines when it comes to prized possessions, from the best part of the kill to a fuzzy chew toy.
When you rub Greta’s belly, Lex steps in because he wants to guard the most valuable of all possessions — you. Fortunately, Lex’s actions are meant to seek your attention, not to harm Greta, and Greta has not retaliated by reacting territorially. Left unchecked, however, this attention-seeking behavior might escalate and lead to tension, and perhaps even fights and injuries.
Take the time to train both your dogs to ban this resource-guarding mentality. Consider enrolling in a basic obedience course or refresher training class with them. Make sure the class uses positive, reward-based methods. At home, all members of the household need to heed the same game plan. I hope that no one is yelling or physically punishing either dog, because these actions heighten levels of stress and anxiety.
It might be necessary for a while to separate the dogs when you want to devote individual time to each, by using doggy gates or putting one dog in a closed room or outside in a fenced backyard, but you should also teach Lex to find your spot whenever he approaches you when you are engaged in one-on-one time with Greta. (See Having Spot Find His Spot, page 178.) This command can keep a fight from occurring because you, as leader of the pack, are giving Lex an activity to perform. Toss Lex a treat to reinforce this preferred, compliant behavior.
Greta should also learn to wait quietly for attention in her own spot, but it is important to make sure you show Lex the same amount of attention so he doesn’t feel that he needs to guard your time with him. By being consistant, you can teach both dogs to be patient.
Q Our kids have been bugging us to adopt a dog. My son is age seven and my daughter is nine. They promise they will feed, walk, and play with the dog. Are they old enough to be responsible in caring for a dog? My husband and I both work. Should we say yes or wait?
A Caring for dogs develops responsibility and self-esteem in growing children. I’m frequently approached by parents wondering if their children are too young or at the right age to adopt a dog. By age seven, in general, children are mature enough to recognize that dogs, just like people, have feelings and need kindness and care. The actual skills necessary to care for pets, though, depend more on a child’s ability to take responsibility and exercise self-control than on an age group. I know some seven-year-olds who are extremely attentive and capable of feeding, watering, exercising, and playing appropriately with puppies and dogs. I know some immature twelve-year-olds who could not be relied on to feed a dog his daily meal even once.
You know your children’s maturity levels. Spend some time with your spouse going over scenarios involving your children. Do they exercise proper caution by asking people if they can pet their dogs before bounding up to a dog? Do they complete their family chores on time? Do they take care of their toys? How do they act around pets belonging to friends and relatives?
You and your husband also need to ask questions of yourselves. Are you willing to take on the added responsibilities and costs (in terms of both time and money) of bringing a dog into the family? Are you willing to care for the dog when your children grow up and head for colleges or careers? Some dogs can live up to 18 years and longer. You could be caring for a senior dog with medical problems while your young adult children live hours away. Be candid with yourself and with each other.
Parents need to make canine caregiving an opportunity, not a punishment, for children. If your son doesn’t do his homework or your daughter forgets to take the garbage out, don’t punish them by telling them they must now walk the dog. Never make caring for the dog seem to be a burden or punishment to your children or they can develop resentment and anger and take it out on the dog.
Finally, round up your children for a family heart-to-heart talk. Remind them that dogs, unlike toys, are living, breathing animals with feelings. Then seek answers to the following questions:
Why do you want a dog? Because you love dogs or because you think you’ll look cool around your friends?
Are you willing to attend dog-training classes?
Will you help feed, water, and exercise your dog every day?
Will you treat your dog with love and kindness even if he piddles on your carpet or chews your favorite book or accidentally scratches you when playing?
Can you handle dog hair or drool on your favorite pair of black jeans?
Will you bathe your dog and clean up after him?
Can you respect that dogs sometime need to be left alone, especially when sleeping?
Will you teach your dog commands and fun tricks?
Will you obey leash laws when taking your dog out for walks?
Once you’re satisfied with their responses, it is time to make this dog adoption truly a family affair. Teach children the right way to greet and respect the new family dog — and all dogs. Explain to them that when a dog tucks his tail, yelps, or tries to wiggle free from bear hugs, he wants some space. Point out that when a dog approaches them freely and stays by them, these are positive signs that the dog enjoys their company.
After you adopt a dog, set up a schedule that lists who is doing which chore/activity each week for the new family dog. Put this schedule in a prominent place, such as on the refrigerator door, for easy access to check off completed tasks. This schedule can reduce the chance of forgetting to feed the dog or taking him for a needed walk.
To ensure success, include your children in discussions on caring for your dog. Often, kids can offer great suggestions and be part of the solution when it comes to any behavior problems in your dog.
Q Our sweet but clingy Australian shepherd came to us from a breed rescue group about a month ago. Teddy follows us around the house like a shadow. Sometimes when we come home from work, we find that he has shredded a sofa pillow or stolen the sponge from the kitchen and chewed it up. He always rushes to greet us and seems very anxious. We feel terrible leaving him alone, but we can’t stay home 24 hours a day to keep him company, and we can’t keep him in a crate all day either. What can we do to help him feel more at home when he is there by himself?
A Two emotions are at work in your household: Teddy’s separation anxiety and your feeling of guilt for having to bid him good-bye each morning and head to work. Guilt affects millions of hard-working dog owners who want to make their homes comfortable and secure for their stay-behind dogs. They feel bad about leaving the dog home alone, but of course they must go to their jobs and earn paychecks. The guilt surfaces when they make a big fuss over their dogs when they come home. Unfortunately, that approach can make dogs like Teddy more clingy and more in need of their attention.
The biggest problems with dogs who are bored or anxious about being left at home include inappropriate elimination, incessant barking, and chewing up household items. Some dogs pace around in a panic or claw at windows and doors. Certain facts you cannot change — unless you win mega-millions in the lottery and can suddenly quit your job! Your dog spends more time inside your home than you do. But you can shed guilt-laden thoughts by designating a safe, cozy spot for Teddy to hang out in during the day and by giving him something fun to do in your absence. It is also important to avoid a common bad habit among working owners: making a big deal out of leaving and returning to your house.
Start by rescripting your comings and goings. Some owners unintentionally create separation anxiety in their dogs because they make a big deal of departures (“I’m so sorry I have to go work today, Max, you poor thing”) or arrivals (“Hey, Max! Guess who’s home? Where’s my sloppy kiss?”). For Teddy’s sake, cease the emotion-filled departures and arrivals. Exit and enter without a lot of fanfare. Give him a treat or activity before you walk calmly out the door, but don’t make a fuss about leaving. When you return, say hello, but then spend several minutes checking your mail or listening to your phone messages before making a fuss over him. You are teaching him that it isn’t a big production when you leave and return and that he must wait patiently for your undivided attention.
Here are a few other strategies to turn your home into a haven for Teddy during your absence.
LIMIT HIS ACCESS. You’re right not to crate your dog if you are gone for more than four or five hours at a time. That is far too taxing for any canine bladder or patience. Instead, identify a room in your home where you can close a door or use doggy gates to keep Teddy safely inside. These small places often give dogs like Teddy a feeling of security and may help him to calm down.
BRING ON THE FOOD FEAST. A few minutes before you head out the door for work, give Teddy a hollow, hard rubber toy stuffed with his favorite treat: peanut butter, cream cheese, mashed bananas, pieces of rice cake, or pieces of kibble. Your dog should be so happily working to release every little morsel that he won’t notice your absence for hours. This tactic can help curb destructiveness, overeager greeting, and separation anxiety tendencies. Clean these rubber toys in your dishwasher or hot, soapy water at least once a week.
THOROUGHLY DOG PROOF any room where he will be spending time alone. Provide him with a comfy bed, a couple of favorite toys, and a bowl of water.
TURN ON THE TELEVISION or radio to provide some sound to counter the silence.
VARY THE DAILY ROUTINE. If he likes other dogs, treat Teddy to an occasional day at a doggy day care center or a midday visit from a dog-friendly neighbor or a professional pet sitter. (See Choosing a Good Day Care, page 238–239.)
GIVE HIM PLENTY OF EXERCISE. A tired dog is a more relaxed dog.
Remember not to make a big deal of leaving or returning so you do not feed into Teddy’s insecurity. He is still a newcomer to your household and is learning that he can trust you to come home every day. It won’t be long before he feels like a full-fledged member of the family.
Q We’re planning on enrolling in a basic obedience class for our young Border collie, Barney, and we hope to continue with clicker training and agility classes. My 10-year-old son is very interested in teaching Barney tricks. Is he too young to participate in the training classes with me? Will Barney respect him enough to obey him?
A Many professional dog trainers report that their best students are children and teenagers. It makes sense. Children and puppies possess wonderful young minds that soak up learning like sponges. In dog training classes, children learn success. They gain confidence by being able to show off tricks they taught their dog to their friends. It’s definitely a win-win for dogs and for kids.
Children between the ages of nine and fifteen make the best students because they are the most open to learning. Adults often have too many bad habits to break or they become too goal-oriented. Trainers remark that it can be challenging to show adult students a new way to teach sit and down. The competitive nature also surfaces sometimes in classes with some adults wanting their dogs not only to learn the commands but also to be the best. That puts undue pressure on a dog and can interfere with effective training.
Another plus for young students: great eye–hand coordination and timing. In clicker training, you learn to press a small metal device to make a clicking sound each time your dog does the right step. You immediately follow that sound with a small treat to reinforce his actions. The timing of the click is essential. Adults may be a little slow with the clicking sound, but children possess good eye–hand coordination, thanks in part to their video game skills. They usually manage to click on cue.
I know a nine year old named Kim who enrolled in a clicker-training puppy class with her dachshund puppy, Bogart. The trainer in charge told me that Kim ranked top in her class, which included mostly adults. Kim even surprised her mom by getting Bogart to heed basic commands like sit, stay, and settle during the first day of clicker-training class. Now Kim and Bogart have advanced to work on new commands and fun tricks, and their confidence levels rise with each success.
Your children represent the next generation of the pet-loving public, so encourage them to join you in your dog’s training classes. Then sit back and witness the maturity growth in both your children and your dog.
Q My husband and I jokingly refer to Samson as our first child. We adopted him from a greyhound rescue organization two years ago; he is now four. Samson is sweet, gentle, and charming with people. I just found out that I’m pregnant. We’re excited about having a baby, but what should we do to prepare Samson for the new arrival? We don’t want him to be jealous or upset when the baby comes.
A Congratulations on becoming a parent — again! Samson’s sweet temperament should make for an easy transition upon the arrival of your baby. Still, he will surely be curious, and while a dog won’t feel jealous the way an older sibling might, he may feel that he must compete with this new addition for your time and attention.
Start now to prepare Samson by gradually spending less one-on-one time with him. This is not meant to be unkind, but to help him cope with your need to devote a lot of time and energy to caring for your baby. If you are Samson’s primary caregiver, have your husband take over some of those duties. You want Samson to continue to feel that he is a loved and vital member of the family but not that he is the central focus of your attention. You also don’t want him to feel neglected.
Before the baby arrives, introduce Samson to as many other infants and toddlers as possible. Invite friends who have babies to visit so that Samson becomes accustomed to little ones in the house. Take him for walks near playgrounds or schools. Play tapes or videos of babies and children. Look for any opportunity to expose Samson to the sights, sounds, and smells of the baby world: crying, babbling, diaper changing, strollers, and so forth. You’re building him a baby database that he can download when your baby comes home.
Of course, it is very important that you closely supervise his interaction with all babies and children. Reward him for gentle behavior and correct him if he is too nosy or if he tries to lick them. Teach him to sit politely to be petted. Be aware that sight hounds might chase and knock down running children, whose erratic motion and high-pitched voices can trigger chasing instincts. Don’t take the chance of your children getting accidentally injured or bitten by a dog who becomes overly excited.
Silly as it sounds, I recommend that you carry a baby doll around with you when you walk Samson and when you relax or watch television. Get a recording of baby sounds and play it. A friend of mine even sprinkled baby powder on her forearm and baby food on her fingers to get her dog used to the smells.
Before you bring the baby home, ask your husband or a friend to bring home a blanket or other object that smells of your baby for Samson to sniff and become familiar with. When you come home, make the first introduction a rewarding one. Enter the house alone and give Samson a happy greeting and treat. Then have your husband follow you inside with your baby. Give Samson plenty of time to sniff and look over the baby while you keep a close watch on them.
Your life is about to change drastically, and many of your usual routines will be altered or gone forever. However busy you are, though, try to spend some quality solo time each day with Samson — even just a few minutes will help him feel secure. No matter how much you trust him, however, always supervise him when he is with the baby. With careful preparation and continued attention, Samson should quickly learn to accept this new addition to the pack and still feel loved by you and your husband.
SALLY HAD RECENTLY RELOCATED to a small second-story condominium with four pugs and two cats. Since the move, her two male dogs, Ugh, five years old, and Peter, one year old, had started fighting with one another, lifting their legs on furniture, and even defecating on the floor, something they had not been doing in their old home.
The dogs were walked three times a day, but Ugh in particular would hold his urine and wait to release it inside the condo. Frustrated, Sally realized she needed professional help. To rule out any possible medical condition such as a urinary tract or bladder infection, I conducted complete physical exams. Both dogs were deemed healthy. In taking their histories, I learned that Sally had adopted Ugh from a rescue group when he was about a year old and had purchased Peter three years later as a small pup from a breeder. This appeared to be a situation in which both males were trying to establish territory in the new home.
The first step in fixing this problem was for Sally to thoroughly clean her furniture and carpets with a commercial odor neutralizer that breaks down and removes odors rather than masking them. I put both dogs on a behavioral medication to address possible anxiety caused by the move. I also instructed Sally to stop giving Ugh and Peter table food and to discontinue free feeding in order to establish her leadership role. To discourage repeat episodes, their food bowls were repositioned at places where they had previously marked. To redirect their behavior, the two pugs needed a training tuneup. Any affection was to be initiated by Sally, not demanded by Ugh or Peter. Sally also had to enforce the sit, stay, come, and off commands. The dogs were no longer allowed on the sofa, both because it had become a place for inappropriate elimination and because it was possibly giving them the sense that they were as high in the social order as Sally was. Booby traps on the cushions (aluminum foil or plastic carpet runners with knobby side up) kept them off it.
When Sally was at home, the dogs were kept on long draglines attached to her or to non-movable furniture to control their movement in the house. When she was out, they were separated and placed in crates or gated rooms. I advised her to play therapeutic harp music and use an electric plugin to diffuse a calming pheromone to calm them down when they were left alone.
Within a few months, we were able to reduce the dosage of the behavioral medication. Acting calmer and more secure, both pugs stopped urinating and fighting in the condo and remembered to take their bathroom needs outdoors.
Contributed by Patrick Melese, DVM
Q I live on the 10th floor of a high-rise building in New York City. My one-bedroom condo is 600 square feet. I love city life and don’t plan to move, but I really want to adopt a dog. I volunteer at a doggy day care on Saturdays, and I know that I could offer a deserving dog a good home. I prefer larger dogs who weigh at least 50 pounds. Would living in such a small space drive a big dog crazy?
A By all means, adopt a big lovable dog, but choose carefully. Physical size does not necessarily parallel the amount of energy a dog possesses. Some of the top canine couch loungers include greyhounds and Great Danes. Conversely, some dogs that turn into interior designers of the worst kind (chewing rugs and shredding sofas, all the while yapping nonstop) weigh in at less than 15 pounds.
Before you take any steps toward adopting, though, check with your condo association and learn their pet rules. Savvy condo groups focus on temperament — not poundage — in their pet policies. They want well-behaved dogs and responsible owners. Your next step should be to honestly assess how much time you have to exercise a dog and then be careful to choose a canine companion that will be satisfied with what you provide. In other words, if you can walk a dog twice a day for only 15 minutes, don’t get a high-energy breed that needs lots of exercise. Great Danes, for example, may be big, but they are not typically shoving a leash in your lap and beckoning you to the door to run a marathon every day.
Dogs are very adaptable, and city dogs are exposed to many sights, sounds, and smells. These exposures usually enhance their social skills when they meet people and other critters during daily walks. Most big cities offer numerous canine amenities like doggy spas, bakeries, day cares, training centers, and dog-friendly transportation. When I was in New York with Chipper, she sat so nicely next to me that we had no trouble flagging down taxis. A few cabbies even remarked that Chipper showed more manners than some of their two-legged riders!
Big cities also provide plenty of places for dogs to get exercise. Seek out dog-friendly parks and canine play groups. If you work all day, look into a dog day care or hire a professional dog walker to give your dog a break in the middle of the day. Don’t let the size of your place keep you from teaching your dog city manners. Keep plenty of treats in your tiny kitchen and work on commands like sit pretty (ideal when sharing elevators with dog-apprehensive strangers) and curb (stopping and sitting at intersections until the light turns green). Your dog will be happy to demonstrate his repertoire of tricks during walks and perhaps the two of you will convert more New Yorkers into dog fans. And don’t forget to scoop your poop!
Q Can dogs be jealous of people? Rusty, my 40-pound mixed breed, loves other dogs and is even kind to cats. He is about five years old, and I got him when he was just a pup from a local animal shelter. He is well trained and greets everyone at my house in a friendly manner — except for my boyfriend. When my boyfriend and I are on the sofa, Rusty tries to sit between us. Rusty sleeps at the foot of my bed, but growls a little when my boyfriend spends the night. He hasn’t bitten or attacked, but sometimes I catch him staring at my boyfriend. It makes my boyfriend a bit nervous. He hasn’t been around dogs much. I really like this guy and we’re talking about getting married. What can I do to get Rusty to be friendlier?
A Dogs do not get jealous in the human sense, but they can become protective of the members of their pack and will compete for attention from and proximity to their leaders. In this case, that’s you. They are also very hierarchical, and from Rusty’s perspective, the order of the pack is you, him, and then your boyfriend, the most recent addition. Rusty can undoubtedly detect your boyfriend’s nervousness, which fuels his in-charge behavior even more and explains why he pushes between you on the sofa and growls at your boyfriend at bedtime. Just like a toddler, Rusty has discovered that his canine antics focus your attention on him. Even if you reprimand him, negative attention is better than none in his mind.
Dogs can become overly attached to a single person, so it’s good that Rusty is friendly toward others and heeds your obedience commands. Now you need to teach him to extend that pleasant behavior to your boyfriend. Rusty must also learn that while he has a new place in the hierarchy, he can still feel secure in his pack. To succeed, your boyfriend must cooperate with you to elevate his status to Number Two. When he visits, have him feed Rusty, first telling the dog to sit. When the three of you are entering or exiting the house, make sure that your boyfriend goes through the door before Rusty does. When you are on the sofa, have your boyfriend lead Rusty over to his dog bed and offer him a chew toy to keep busy. If you don’t mind sharing the sofa with Rusty, make him settle down on his own end, not between you.
Hand the leash over to your boyfriend when you take Rusty for a walk. Ask him to tell Rusty to perform various behaviors on the walk, with the cues spoken in a calm, clear tone. Give your boyfriend a pocketful of treats to reward compliance. Eventually you can have him take Rusty out on his own, perhaps in an unfamiliar area where Rusty has to rely on your boyfriend for guidance and security. If your boyfriend is the real deal, he should be happy to engage in some play time with Rusty, such as tossing a ball or even playing a fun game of hide-and-seek in your house.
At bedtime, do not ban Rusty from your room. That has been his den since puppy days. However, he does need his own bed. You and your boyfriend need to make this doggy bed appear to be higher in real estate value than your bed. Do this by directing Rusty to a comfortable dog bed or a crate. Put treats or a special chew toy on the bed or in the crate. Tell Rusty to lie down and stay. Reward him with a treat. If he heads for your bed, toss a treat on his own bed. Praise him when he stays on his bed or inside his crate. The goal is to make Rusty view his bed or his crate as his personal bedroom. (You might need to experiment with a few different kinds of beds to find one that appeals to him.)
It will take some time for Rusty to realize that your boyfriend deserves his respect, so celebrate each small victory. By the time you are ready to exchange “I dos,” Rusty may happily serve as ring bearer at your ceremony.
Q Lately, I’ve found myself spending more and more time at my job. I used to leave home at 7 A.M. and return at 5 P.M., but recently I haven’t been coming home until around 7 P.M. I share my home with my wonderful dog, Murphy. He is four years old and well behaved. He likes other dogs and loves helping me entertain when we have company. He has access to a dog door leading to an enclosed area in my side yard to use as a bathroom area, and I leave him with toys and snacks and water. When I walk in the door, Murphy is ready to play, but I am exhausted. I feel guilty that I can’t give him the attention and exercise he deserves. He is beginning to chew my belongings and beg for constant attention at night. What can I do?
A Guilt is a human emotion, not a canine one. I came up with the acronym “Great, Useful, Intelligent, Loving Tactics” for working out solutions to problems like juggling a demanding job and a young, playful dog. You already recognize that you’re exhausted and your dog is frustrated. Murphy sounds like a sweet dog who enjoys your company, but you are right to be worried that he needs more attention. You’ve done a good job in providing him with the basic amenities, but the 12-hour days are cutting into quality time for you and Murphy and reducing his opportunities to exercise.
One suggestion is that you treat Murphy to doggy day care a couple of days a week. Many places offer quality care with hours that match your schedule. Don’t let the price dissuade you. A young, energetic dog left home alone all day can start to display signs of loneliness and boredom, including destructive chewing, nonstop barking, and inappropriate urination. Correcting these bad behaviors and repairing the damage done by the dog can cost you more time and money (and much more frustration) than you will pay for day care. Murphy will enjoy unleashing his pent-up energy and hanging out with canine pals. At the end of the workday, you will pick up a tired, happy dog, not one who’s been eagerly awaiting your return all day and is dying to play. You can come home and relax with your dog before heading for bed. You both win.
Another option is to hire a trusty teen or retiree in your neighborhood to come in the afternoons and give Murphy a good long walk and some attention. Or perhaps a nearby friend with a dog would bring Murphy along for a walk while you’re at work if you offer to take the two dogs on longer treks on the weekends. Once Murphy is getting more exercise, he should start feeling less anxious and restless.
Q I live in a small town and have three big dogs that range in weight from 85 to 160 pounds. One drools. They are all males, ages three to six. They are very sweet, but their physical size seems to scare off potential boyfriends — that and the fact that I allow all three to sleep on my queen-sized bed at night. Obviously, there is very little room for even me to sleep. How can I find a great mate who isn’t intimidated — or turned off — by my canine trio? How can I get my canine trio to accept a serious boyfriend into my bedroom?
A Sounds like you want a guy who loves dogs but doesn’t act like one! Use the fact that you love your three dogs to your advantage in the dating game. Surveys show that people who own dogs are perceived as nicer and kinder than those who don’t.
You have several options. Consider joining the growing number of pet-friendly online dating services. Hang out at your local dog park and strike up conversations with guys. Offer to volunteer at a fund-raising event for a local shelter or rescue group. Look for a “yappy hour” in your area (but take only one dog at a time!). The key to finding a guy who shares your love for dogs is to be honest. Let guys know right up front that you share your home with three large dogs. In searching for a mate, don’t sacrifice your beliefs and certainly don’t dismiss the needs of your dogs. Steer clear of any guy who tells you to decide between him and your dogs. Those “me or else” guys aren’t worth your time or energy.
By the way, given the sheer size of your canine pals, I strongly recommend you provide them with their own beds in your bedroom and retrain them to sleep there instead. Pets are definitely one of those environmental factors such as sound, temperature, humidity, light, and movement that contribute to poor sleep. Researchers at the Mayo Clinic Sleep Disorders Center have discovered that about half the people who let pets share their bed at night suffer from disrupted sleep that results in being tired each morning. Initially you may need to tether them safely to a heavy piece of furniture with their leashes so that they cannot physically reach your bed.
As for introducing another human to your room, make sure your canine trio meet your boyfriend outside the bedroom first. Let them spend some time getting treats from him and playing with him. They need to build a bond with him that will strengthen the trust to feel okay about him being in any room in your house.
Q My poodle, Precious, earns her name, at least during daylight hours. She is sweet, gentle, and always ready to learn new tricks. My problem is that she turns into a pillow pig at night. She starts out by putting her head on the edge of my pillow but by the middle of the night, she has taken over half or more. Her activity wakes me up. Sometimes she presses her cold wet nose against my neck or emits little yips when she is deep in dreamland. I want her to sleep on my bed, but how can I keep her off my pillow so I can get some sleep?
A When it comes to sharing your bed with your dog, you’re not alone. In fact, about a third of today’s dog owners sleep with their pets, an arrangement that dates back hundreds of years. The Mexican hairless breed, also known as the Xoloitzcuintli, was valued by pre-Aztec Mexicans as a bed warmer and companion. The term “three-dog night” originated with Eskimo tribes in Alaska who added sled dogs as bed warmers based on the temperature. The colder the night, the more dogs they invited in to keep their toes toasty.
Precious sounds like one bossy poodle. She has decided that bedtime entitles her to sleep wherever she chooses, regardless of your preferences. Cute as she may be, you need to regain control of your bed, not only to enjoy a sound sleep but also to remind Precious who calls the shots in your home. You are fortunate that she has not become territorial about bedtime turf. Some dogs who view themselves as top dogs in the family will growl or even nip their human bedmates who dare to toss and turn at night.
It’s time to teach Precious that although she is welcome on your bed, you are the one who determines where she sleeps. Make her sit and wait until you call her up. Direct her to the foot of your bed and provide her with her own pillow or special blanket. If she ventures north toward your pillow, move her back to the foot of the bed. Once she is there, praise her. It may take a few nights before Precious learns your new bedtime rules, but eventually, she will roost in her own spot and let you enjoy a full night’s sleep without a pillow fight.
Q My mother, who lives in a different state, owns an Italian greyhound named Maggie who seems to hate me. I admit I don’t like her very much either. She acts very upset when I visit. She won’t let me pet her and avoids me, staying very close to my mom. If Maggie gets the chance, she defecates on my clean clothes in my open suitcase. If I drop towels on the floor in the bathroom, she urinates on them. Why does she hate me, and what can we do to change her attitude? Her behavior is ruining my visits.
A It sounds like Maggie is very closely bonded to your mom and not used to visitors. Often when a dog and her owner live alone, the dog becomes wary of outsiders. I imagine that your mom doesn’t get too many overnight visitors, or even daytime guests. If Maggie doesn’t leave the house much, your mother is her entire world and she has become too dependent on a single person for attention, which makes her suspicious of others.
Because Maggie is poorly socialized, she sees you as a threat and is acting out by marking her territory every chance she gets. Urinating and defecating on your property is her way of saying, “This is my house and my mom, and don’t you forget it.” She doesn’t hate you. She simply becomes anxious when you invade her territory.
A lot of the work required to help Maggie over this attitude will fall on your mom. She needs to start taking Maggie places to help socialize her and accustom her to strangers. If your mom has friends who like dogs, she should take Maggie on social visits to their homes. To set up Maggie for success, the initial visits must be short and pleasant. Your mom should bring Maggie’s favorite snacks, whatever they are, or even introduce a delicious new treat like pieces of hot dog or cheese — anything that makes her really pay attention and associate new experiences with great rewards. Maggie will be afraid at first, so the enticements need to be special.
Your mom’s friends can make a fuss over Maggie when she visits. Chances are Maggie will be shy around them, so they shouldn’t force themselves on her physically by bending over her, making eye contact, or trying to pet her. They can talk to her in a happy voice, however, and offer her treats from their hand. If she is very nervous in the beginning, they should ignore her and just drop treats near her so she isn’t overwhelmed. In time, Maggie will start to realize that strangers are a source of kind words and good treats and are not to be feared.
Once Maggie shows some appropriate social skills out of the house, the next hurdle involves turning your mom’s home into a welcoming place. Your mother should start inviting people over to her house specifically to visit Maggie. Visitors should offer Maggie treats when they are there and talk to her in an upbeat tone. Again, after a number of enjoyable interactions, the dog will start to see visitors as a pleasure rather than a threat.
As for your relationship with Maggie, you need to walk in with a new attitude — a genuine desire to make friends. When you first go into the house, act happy to see Maggie and offer her some of the special treats that she’s been receiving from other people. If your mom has been working on this, Maggie shouldn’t be too stressed when she sees you and should readily take the food. Ask your mom if you can take over the mealtime duties and daily walks with Maggie while you are there. What you are doing is communicating a leadership role and showing Maggie that her place in the pack comes after you, but that you can provide comfort and security.
When you go to the room where you sleep when you visit, put some of Maggie’s treats around in strategic places. Lay the treats on your suitcase and around the bed. Let Maggie come into the room and discover the treats. Do the same thing in the guest bathroom. Feed her some treats from your hand in these rooms, too (but still remember to keep the doors closed when you’re not there to supervise her). Don’t rush into petting her — look for a more relaxed attitude and maybe even a tail wag first.
The goal here is to change Maggie’s view of you and visitors in general from an intrusion to a welcome diversion. Food is a great way to do this, along with gentle behavior and talking. It’s amazing how quickly a dog’s opinion of someone can change when a particularly good treat is offered or a favorite game is initiated!
Q Our Boston terrier, Foggy, has started to growl and snap at our cats whenever they come within 10 feet of his food bowl, even if it is empty. Recently, he lunged at one of them, making her climb up a cat tree to escape. He also stares icily at my husband and me when we walk by his bowl. Foggy is nine months old and neutered. When the food bowl isn’t involved, he is fun and friendly and obedient. Why is he guarding his food bowl with such intensity?
A Foggy doesn’t hold the deed to your house or the title to your car, but he does know the concept of ownership. From his viewpoint, the food bowl — empty or full — is one of his most prized possessions and, even if they show no interest in it, he must ensure that cats or people don’t attempt to steal his bowl. This common type of resource guarding harks back to his ancestors’ need to protect food and other resources in order to survive. Snapping and growling at other members of the pack was a way for dogs to tell them to back off and leave their food alone. Despite being domesticated, some modern-day dogs extend this territorial thinking to favorite toys, bedding, and even a certain location in the house, like a sunny spot near a window.
At nine months, Foggy is also beginning to feel more grown-up, and like all young adults, he is testing the limits of authority. He wants to know if he can chase you away from his bowl and if the cats will yield to his threats. From your description, Foggy’s turf defending is growing in intensity and range. Unchecked, this behavior can become dangerous, with Foggy escalating from growls to snapping, even to biting. As natural as it may seem, do not yell at Foggy or physically punish him for guarding his food bowl. You risk making the problem worse: He will feel a greater need to protect his bowl since it will appear to him that you are angry enough to fight for it.
This problem did not surface overnight, and it won’t go away in one day. Stopping resource guarding takes time. The first step is to establish a new dinnertime protocol. You and your husband must call the shots at meals. Your goal is to teach Foggy that positive experiences occur when people approach his bowl and that you reign as the Keeper of Great Chow, worthy of his respect.
Do not let Foggy be a free feeder who nibbles all day. Take his bowl away between meals and store it out of sight. During your retraining period, bring out not one but two food bowls — one empty and one containing food. Call the dog to a new feeding place that isn’t a high-traffic area in your home. Moving the bowl into different locations in your home will reduce Foggy’s territorial tendencies.
Place the bowls on a counter or shelf out of his reach. Ask Foggy to sit and stay and then put down the empty bowl. (Watch the surprised look on his face!) Then drop a piece of food into the empty bowl on the ground. Do not bend over. Wait until he eats that piece before dropping another. If he shows no protectiveness, try putting a few pieces of food in your hand and invite him to take them.
Alternate between dropping food in his bowl and hand-feeding him. When he starts to eat from his bowl, drop more pieces into it. Once in a while, drop in a “jackpot treat” like a piece of chicken or steak, something much tastier than his regular dog food. It may take several meals before he accepts this new method of dining.
Once Foggy shows no signs of tension, you’re ready for the next phase. Partially fill one bowl with his food and place it on the floor. Call Foggy and again have him sit and stay before you give him the okay sign to approach his food bowl. The goal is to make him work for his food. As he starts to eat, place a second bowl with some premium food about 10 feet away. Call him over to this bowl. As he starts to eat from the second bowl, go back to the first bowl and add special treats to up its food value before you call Foggy over. Continue switching between bowls until he has finished his meal, then take them away and hide them.
Over a few weeks, gradually move the two bowls closer together as you feed him. You need to watch Foggy’s reactions to determine how quickly you can merge the two bowls. He should be displaying a relaxed body posture. This dual-bowl tactic is designed to build positive associations and increase Foggy’s trust that you, or other people, make feeding time fun and exciting, not tense and upsetting. You are using positive reinforcement rather than threats or physical force to show Foggy that food time is not a time to fight. He is learning that by giving up a resource, he is rewarded with something even better. Eventually, you will be able to present him with a single bowl, though he should always be expected to sit and wait for your signal before eating.
I followed these steps with my corgi, Jazz, and within a couple of weeks his guarding behavior disappeared. We turned mealtime into a fun game of doggy dining etiquette. He would happily leap into a sit position, watch me put down the bowl, heed my wait cue and my watch me cue before approaching his bowl once I gave the okay sign. I was able to pet his back while he ate, praising him. It worked, and it can work for you and Foggy.
If you don’t feel that you can stop Foggy on your own, however, I urge you to seek help from a professional animal behaviorist. This is a serious behavior problem that can eventually threaten the safety of you, your family and visitors, and your cats.
Q All I have to do is say the words “car ride” and my Labrador retriever gets giddy with excitement and starts dancing around. I enjoy taking him along when I go on errands and when I visit family and friends out of town. He absolutely loves to ride in the front seat and stick his head out the window. Why do so many dogs like to do this? Also, I’m a conscientious driver, but is there anything I can do to make life on the road with my dog safer?
A Be happy that he isn’t begging for the keys like a teenager or whistling at that cute poodle in the BMW convertible next to you at the intersection! Many dogs love car rides, partly because they love to go with us wherever we go. Another reason is that they exist in a world of smells. Their nose acts as a steering wheel, directing them from one great odor to the next. As they whiz along with their heads out the window, dogs are gathering a wealth of information about the passing world. Road trips also help hone canine socialization skills by exposing dogs to new and different sights, sounds, and, most important, smells with each passing mile.
Chipper also loves car trips, and although I used to allow her to stick her head out the window to better enjoy the ride, this is not safe. Even traveling around town at lower speeds exposes dogs to the risk of eye injuries from flying debris. There is also the chance that something will tempt a dog to leap out of a moving car, which is a good reason to open the windows only a few inches. And all it takes is a sudden stop for your dog to become a projectile inside your car, possibly injuring you both.
As much as we might enjoy their company in the front seat, dogs are safer sitting in the back, where they can’t distract the driver and won’t be injured by the airbags in an accident. Just as there are car seats for infants and toddlers and seat belts for adults, our dogs also need to be safely confined inside a moving vehicle. There is a variety of products for canine car comfort available in pet supply stores and catalogs. Depending on the size of your dog and your vehicle, you might consider crates or canine seatbelts to prevent canine free reign. Station wagons can be fitted with grates that keep your passenger in the back compartment.
Chipper rides in the back seat with her 60-pound-plus body safe in a canine hammock. The canvas sling hangs over the backseat and clips around the front and back headrests. It limits the movement of large dogs and saves wear and tear on the upholstery. Small breeds can sit in a canine booster seat that snaps into place with the seat belts or in a cozy pet carrier that can also be attached with a seat belt. If you want to let your dog stick his head out the window after he is fastened in, think about fitting him with protective plastic goggles specially designed for dogs. This way, he can hang out the window without the risk of a bug or bit of debris lodging in his eyes.
A final safety tip: Always put your dog’s leash on before you open the door to prevent him from bolting out and getting hurt in traffic or lost. This is the ideal setting to reinforce the wait cue.
Q My husband and I are retired and we have always wanted to trek cross-country by car. Next summer there’s a family reunion in Maine, so we plan to drive there from our home in Oregon. We want to take the time to enjoy this country from coast to coast, and we want to take our fox terrier with us. Sammy loves to ride in the car and is well behaved. Do you have any advice for finding pet-friendly hotels and tips for traveling with dogs?
A Like you, more and more travelers are taking their dogs on vacation these days. Fortunately, there is an increasingly wide range of lodgings, from the inexpensive to the luxurious, that are putting out the welcome mat for doggy guests. Over the past few years, my dogs and I have stayed in bargain-priced motels and oh-so-canine-fine hotels with doggy spas. Some places offer dog-walking services and doggy day care. At one fancy resort, Chipper was treated to a three-hour guided hike, followed by a pet massage and bath, and she loved the attention!
The fact that you are not in a hurry, and that Sammy is a seasoned, well-mannered traveler, can make your trip truly memorable. My first piece of advice is to heed the Golden Rule of Traveling: never try to sneak your dog into a hotel that doesn’t permit pets. You risk losing a night’s charge as a penalty and after a full day of driving, you may find yourselves unable to find a more accommodating option nearby.
If you belong to AAA or another motorist organization, stop by their local office for a book listing pet-friendly hotels. There are also several Web sites that identify lodgings that accept canine guests (see Resources, page 314). Chat with your friends who travel with their dogs and ask them for recommendations. When booking, ask the hotel if they have special pet rooms and what the pet deposit fee is. Some are refundable, but some are not. If possible, request a room on the first floor away from the high-traffic areas. Find out where you can take Sammy for his bathroom needs and what the cleanup requirements are.
Take along a small sign to hang on the doorknob to alert the housekeeping staff that Sammy is inside. Some places provide customized privacy signs that notify visitors that one of the guests inside has four legs, but have your own just in case. (See Travel Tips for Rover on page 257 for a list of other important items to pack.)
No matter how well behaved he is at home, do not let Sammy have free reign inside the room unsupervised. When you and your husband go to dinner or check out a tourist attraction, leave him in a crate after his exercise with all his creature comforts (water, favorite chew toy, and bedding) and tune the television or radio on low to muffle hallway sounds. Never leave him in a crate for more than a few hours. Another option is to bring a portable gate that keeps him safely in the bathroom area and set up a cozy spot for him there.
When you take Sammy out of your room, he needs to be on his best behavior. When you are at the front desk, put him in a sit-stay. That simple obedience cue wows the staff and generates positive comments from other guests. A dog who is friendly and well behaved will usually become a favorite with staff and guests alike, especially if he performs a couple of cool tricks as well.
Finally, always tidy up as you prepare to check out and leave the housekeeping staff a nice tip. These gestures create a positive impression that will benefit other pet lovers desiring to travel with their canine chums.
BILL AND BETTY’S OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOGS were friendly with strangers, affectionate with their owners, and well behaved in public. At 18 months, however, Cubby, an intact male, began challenging his five-year-old companion. He bullied Bear so much that the older dog retaliated. The two fought over toys, food bowls, personal space, and time with the couple. When the couple played with Cubby in the backyard, Bear would stand back and bark loudly. Inside the house, the dogs rushed to be the first through doorways and jostled for position at feeding time. Ugly spats occurred daily, and both humans were injured attempting to break up fights.
My analysis was that Cubby was competing with Bear for priority access to valued resources. Bear, not wanting to relinquish his position, fought back. Younger dogs may act pushy when they see an opportunity provided by the owner, which gives them enough confidence to try to take over. They act out because they don’t see a clear line of command and feel they must step in. In this case, Betty was unwittingly causing a problem by giving the younger dog more attention.
To stop this sibling rivalry, I instructed Bill and Betty to elevate their leadership over both dogs to clearly communicate that they were the leaders in the household pack. Dogs need to know where they stand, even though there isn’t always a strictly linear hierarchy. To reinforce the human role as top dog, so to speak, Bill and Betty instituted the “Please, Mother may I?” mode. Bear and Cubby were required to sit, down, and stay before receiving food, walks, toys, and attention. A focus on rewarding good behavior rather than punishing mistakes helped the dogs learn more acceptable behavior.
As it was Cubby who was starting the fights, Bill and Betty needed to reinforce Bear’s status as the senior dog. Bear was fed first, exercised first, and allowed to walk ahead of Cubby. When approaching a doorway, both dogs had to sit politely before being allowed to proceed in order.
During the transition, I emphasized taking precautionary steps to avoid confrontations between the two dogs whenever possible and advised the couple to pick up all toys and to feed the dogs separately. The couple enrolled both dogs in a basic obedience class, which enhanced Bill and Betty’s authority. Both dogs received 20 to 30 minutes of supervised aerobic activity each day to increase serotonin levels and promote a sense of calmness.
Within four months, the number of feuds dropped to fewer than once a week. After six months, the two dogs seemed to understand their rankings, and the fighting stopped. Cubby was gracious about his demotion and Bear was relaxed as top dog.
Contributed by Alice Moon-Fanelli, PhD
Q When the weather is nice, a lot of cafés in my town have outdoor seating, and they allow dogs if they are on leashes and behave nicely. My dog, Madison, listens to me, but I often observe rude behavior by other dogs who are out of control. What can I do to avoid people whose dogs shouldn’t be allowed in public?
A You have unleashed a topic that brings out the barker in me. Outdoor eateries offer dogs the chance to show off good manners and to hang out with you, instead of being stuck at home. Unfortunately, the percentage of eateries that permit dogs is shrinking because of the failure of dog owners to exercise some basic dining etiquette. Food managers don’t want dogs who yap, wrestle, or roam freely from table to table — it’s bad for business.
In my hometown, there are three outdoor eateries that allow dogs at our beautiful harbor area. Chipper is welcome at all three places because she practically becomes invisible once we are shown to our table. She sits or lies down and remains quiet. No begging, no barking. Often, diners at nearby tables have no clue until we stand up to leave that a 60-pound dog was just a handshake away.
You can’t control your environment entirely, but you can take steps to heighten the chance of enjoying a pleasant outing with Madison in tow. Here are some tips for a delightful dining experience.
TRY TO DINE during off-peak times, such as mid-morning and late afternoon. Weekdays are usually quieter than weekends.
PICK A SIX-FOOT OR FOUR-FOOT LEASH that you can securely tether around one of your chair legs to keep your dog from roaming freely or disturbing other diners. If your dog is particularly active, accustom him to wearing a head halter in addition to being tethered in place.
REQUEST A TABLE in an out-of-the-way corner. Dogs like to have a view in front of them and a wall behind them to keep people from sneaking up on them.
RESIST THE TEMPTATION to have Madison meet and greet other dining dogs. Introductions should be saved for after mealtime and should take place in a spacious, public place. Politely let intrusive owners know of your wishes.
ALWAYS TAKE MADISON on a vigorous power walk or play a game of fetch before you head for the eatery. This allows her to have a bathroom break and work off some energy so she is ready to rest when you’re ready to order. Don’t test her patience by staying so long that she becomes restless.
SCOPE OUT THE EATERY before you step inside. Look for other dogs and see how they are behaving and how their owners are reacting to them. Steer clear if you see an owner desperately yanking on a leash or allowing his dog to bark at passersby or to bully another dog.
POLITELY REQUEST A WATER BOWL for your dog (with ice, if she prefers it that way!).
LEAVE A GENEROUS TIP — the waiter will remember and be more apt to accommodate you and Madison on your next visit.
Q Whenever I go to my local pet supply store, I see all kinds of dog sweaters, hats, and other outfits for sale. I’m tempted to buy something, because I love to shop for clothes and I know my darling Yorkie, Minette, would look absolutely adorable in some of these outfits. But I’m not sure she would enjoy wearing clothes. How can I tell if she minds if I dress her up in some clothing designed for canines?
A Dog clothing has become a huge category in the pet products market, and manufacturers are producing all kinds of canine garb these days. You can buy scarves, booties, jackets, bathing suits, and even bridal gowns and tuxedos for dogs. Owners of toy breeds like the Pomeranian, Yorkshire terrier and toy poodle especially seem to like dressing their dogs in some of this clothing. It’s almost as if they are reliving their childhood days of dolls and accessories.
To find out how your dog feels about wearing this kind of stuff, first think about her personality. Is Minette a happy-go-lucky dog who likes different experiences and eagerly greets new people? Or is she shy and withdrawn? Does she enjoy being handled and held, or does she just tolerate physical attention? Confident, happy dogs are much more likely to accept clothing than are dogs who are easily frightened by strange objects and new things.
If Minette seems like a good candidate for apparel, your next step is to buy a single outfit. Don’t get carried away until you’re sure she wants a new wardrobe! Make sure you get the right size so the clothes fit properly. Most dog apparel packaging provides guidelines on how to determine the correct size for your dog. The label may indicate the size based on the dog’s weight or breed.
Before you dress Minette up in her outfit, give her some treats to let her know that something fun is about to happen. When she’s focused on you and in a happy state of mind, take the clothing out of the packaging and show it to her. Let her sniff it while you talk to her in a happy voice. Make sure she isn’t afraid of the clothing before you go to the next step. By the way, have your first fitting at home, where Minette feels safe and comfortable.
When Minette ignores the clothing and focuses on you and the treats you’ve been giving her, it’s time for the fashion show. Gently and slowly place the clothes on the dog as you reassure her. Make sure Minette is comfortable with the process. If she becomes frightened, stop what you are doing and give her more treats.
Once she is dressed, let her walk around to get used to the new sensation. Praise her and talk in an enthusiastic voice to let her know that wearing clothes is a good thing. At first, she may seem awkward and confused, but after a few minutes, you should be able to get a sense as to whether Minette minds the apparel. If she is happy, with her tail up and a pleased look on her face, then you know she doesn’t have a problem with wearing canine garb. If she starts strutting her stuff, congratulations! You definitely own a diva dog who is delighted to don the latest in canine fashions.
If she walks around with tail drooping, head low, and ears down, however, you have an unhappy dog on your hands. If she bites at or tries to paw off the clothing, then she is definitely conveying her displeasure in being dolled up. If this is the case, try to adjust her attitude by talking to her in a happy voice and offering her plenty of treats. If she continues to mope, or starts to act this way whenever she knows you are about to dress her up, you’ll know that Minette prefers to wear only the fur she was born with.
Q I hope you can settle an argument in my family. My husband smokes about a pack of cigarettes a day. He usually smokes outside, but sometimes he smokes in the living room or bedroom. I know the dangers of secondhand smoke for nonsmoking people, but aren’t our dogs, Bella and Belagio, also at risk? What information can I share with him to convince him to stop smoking, or at least to smoke outside, away from me and the dogs?
A You are right that cigarette smoking negatively affects the health of household pets. Tobacco smoke contains more than 4,000 chemicals of which nearly 50, including nicotine, are known carcinogens. Chemicals from cigarette smoke can land on a pet’s hair and enter the body through the nostrils. When a dog or cat grooms himself, these chemicals are ingested, putting them at heightened risk for developing respiratory infections, asthma, and other conditions. A recent study conducted by researchers at Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, published in the American Journal of Epidemiology, found that the risk of developing lymphoma tripled for cats and dogs exposed to secondhand tobacco smoke for five years or more. For pets living in households with two or more smokers, the risk for this type of cancer increased by a factor of four.
The bottom line: Actively support your husband in kicking his smoking habit and you’ll improve the health of all members of your household, including your two dogs. Quitting smoking is very difficult, but if your husband won’t quit for his own health, knowing the effects secondhand smoke has on your beloved dogs might make a difference.
A friend of mine smoked nearly a pack of cigarettes a day for 20 years, but she never found the motivation to stop. The Tufts findings were enough to convince her to stop smoking to protect the health of her five cats. As she told me, “People can decide if and when they’re going to smoke, but their four-legged friends can’t.”
Q I attended a pet expo where one of the booths featured a dog-massage therapist. At first I laughed, but then I watched closely and noticed that the dogs seemed to really enjoy having massages. They all lay there quietly looking relaxed; one even fell asleep! Are massages good for dogs, and should I consider giving Dolly, my Dalmatian, massages at home?
A Therapeutic massage knows no boundaries, even of species. The purposeful kneading and pressing and the circular motion help loosen muscle knots, unleash tension, and increase blood flow and range of motion in all sorts of creatures. Regular massages can work wonders for a dog’s muscles and for her temperament as well. A nice massage not only warms body tissues and removes toxins and wastes from the body, but also conditions your dog to being touched, improves socialization, and bolsters your friendship bond. Dalmatians tend to be a bit energetic, so regular massage sessions might instill some calmness and relaxation in Dolly.
Once you learn massage, I guarantee that you will never pet your dog the same way again — no more head pats or back thumps. Here are some tips from Sue Furman, associate professor of anatomy and neurobiology at Colorado State University and one of the country’s top canine- and equine-massage therapy instructors.
SELECT THE RIGHT TIME to do a doggy massage — after a long walk or when Dolly has just woken up and is still sleepy and relaxed. She should welcome the massage, not resist it.
PICK A QUIET PLACE free of distractions and temptations so Dolly can focus on your healing hands and fully enjoy the experience.
NEVER USE MASSAGE OILS. Clean your hands before you begin.
USE YOUR HANDS AND FINGERTIPS, not your nails, to make slow, deliberate movements. An easy position is the open hand. With your palm facing down, apply gentle pressure in long, flowing strokes from Dolly’s head to tail. Another easy stroke is called “finger circles.” Use the tips of your fingers and make small, tight circles on your dog’s muscles in clockwise and counterclockwise directions.
PAY ATTENTION to Dolly’s feedback signs. Continue if she is relaxed and stop when she becomes restless.
LOOK FOR ANY SUSPICIOUS LUMPS or bumps or signs of fleas or ticks during your massage session. Be on the alert for any stiff or sore muscles.
Check with local veterinary clinics or animal shelters to find out where canine massage classes are being held. I promise it will be one of the most fun and beneficial classes you’ve ever attended. But Dolly shouldn’t be the only one in your household getting massages. Book a monthly appointment with a massage therapist and treat yourself as well!
Q I know it is important to walk my dog every day, but it is boring. I sense that Tippy, my corgi, is bored, too. We walk around our neighborhood for about 20 minutes twice a day. Tippy smells the same mailboxes, the same grass, the same car tires. I know that dogs like routines, but what can we do to break the monotony and make walks more interesting and fun?
A Dogs live by the motto “So Many Smells, So Little Time.” In Tippy’s case, he surely can tell you every single thing that is within your 20-minute range, so it’s time for new frontiers. Start by varying your routes, the duration of your walks, and, if possible, the time of day that you walk. Simply switching to the other side of the street will introduce Tippy to a bonanza of new sights, sounds, and smells. Invite a friend with a friendly dog who likes Tippy to join you on your walks. Having company will liven up the routine for both of you. If your weekday walks must follow your work schedule, take time on the weekends to drive Tippy to a pet-friendly place for a longer hike. Or, treat him to playtime at a local dog park if he likes to play with other dogs.
Daily walks provide golden opportunities for you to reinforce basic obedience training and introduce new tricks. Unleash some fun, creative ways to bust boredom on your regular treks with my four favorite walking games: the Molasses Walk, the Jackrabbit Sprint, Park It Here, and Curbside Attraction. Your increased activity may evoke some giggles and stares from onlookers, so bring your sense of humor with you on the walks. Act goofy and it will be contagious to Tippy and others.
The Molasses Walk begins with Tippy walking nicely at your side with the leash loose. Ask Tippy to look at you as you take giant steps forward in slow motion saying s-l-o-w in a drawn-out way. The goal is for Tippy to copy your slow stride. When he does, reward him with praise (good slow!) and a treat. Continue doing this slow walk for 10 or 15 seconds and then return to a normal pace.
Next, hasten the pace with the Jackrabbit Sprint. Start power walking and in an exuberant tone tell Tippy to go fast, fast, fast, fast! (Be careful not to move so quickly that you are dragging him behind you, though!) Keep this pace up for 10 or 15 seconds and then stop. Give him a treat and resume your normal walk.
In addition to varying the pace, spice up your walks with my Park It Here game. Depending on the size of your dog and his physical condition, pick a park bench or sturdy low surface onto which he can easily jump. Train Tippy by tapping your hand on the bench, then making a sweeping up motion as you say jump up! Help him initially by hoisting him up if he seems confused by this strange request. Once he is on the bench, make him sit for a few seconds before giving him permission to leap off. Praise and treat and be on the lookout for the next bench for Tippy to conquer.
The Curbside Attraction trick makes crossing the street more interesting. Stand on a quiet street (very close to the curb, so you don’t risk getting hit by a car). Face Tippy. Ask him to sit, and then use a treat to slowly lure him forward — the idea is have him move just his front feet. As soon as his front legs touch the street and his back legs remain on the curb, reinforce the pose by saying curb. At the same time, put your open hand in front of his face to stop him from continuing to move forward into the street. Praise and treat. This looks quite comical, but dogs have senses of humor, too.
These are just a few suggestions for spicing up your walks. If you vary your routine and make up your own fun games, I’m sure both you and Tippy will enjoy your daily outings more.
