The greenest and most fertile of all the island groups, the Ionian islands sit in turquoise waters off the western coast of Greece. They consist of six main islands: Kefalloniá, the largest, followed by Corfu, Paxí, Zákynthos, Itháki and Lefkáda. There are also many smaller inhabited islands including Andípaxi and Meganíssi as well as clusters of tiny islets such as the Strofádes. The islands have been populated by ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, French and British, all of whom have left their legacy in traditions and architecture. They offer a fabulous combination of mountain and forest landscapes, beaches, bustling towns, idyllic villages and ancient sites.
At the heart of the capital and port of Corfu, the Old Town is a mixture of imposing fortresses, cobbled streets, elegant squares and bustling harbour. It is the largest medieval city in Greece. It is an easy distance between the main sights, which include the fortresses, the Old Port, the French-inspired Listón and the Palace of St Michael and St George. To its south is the Mon Repos Estate, site of the ancient city Palaeópolis (For further details see Corfu Old Town).
To the south of Corfu is Paxí, a pretty island covered in olive groves. Its busy capital, Gäios, sits in a harbour lined with tavernas from where you can relax and watch yachts sail by. In the bay are two islets, the fortified Ágios Nikólaos and Panagía, which provide a natural breakwater. Paxí has a rugged coastline interspersed with small coves and fishing villages like Longós and Lákka. Magaziá is famous for its sunsets.
The small, mountainous island of Lefkáda is covered with forests of pine and cypress trees. Its capital is Lefkáda Town, which is connected to the mainland by two bridges. Its buildings were reconstructed after a devastating earthquake in 1948 using brightly coloured metals. Vasilikí and Nydrí, along with the Pórto Katsíki beach, are popular tourist spots, while off-shore lie the Meganíssi, Madourí and Spárti islands.
Lefkáda has a rare beauty where nature has created some spectacular gorges with sheer rock faces and amazing waterfalls. The Nydrí Waterfalls, which lie to one end of the Dimosári gorge near Perigiáli and Nydrí, are the most impressive. Underground caverns of water help fuel the cascades, which plunge at an alarming rate to crystal-clear pools. The waterfalls are a wondrous sight and visitors can take a refreshing dip in the pools.
The largest Ionian island, Kefalloniá is green and mountainous. It is known for its vineyards, subterranean waterways, caves and indented coastline. Its Mt Énos (Aínos) is over 1,600 m (5,200 ft) high and carpeted with almost black fir trees and old olive trees. Kefalloniá’s main towns and villages include Sámi, the capital Argostóli, Fiskárdo, Skála and Lixoúri (For further details see Sights: Kefalloniá).
Mýrtos Bay is considered to be the most photographed bay on the island. Its waters are brilliant turquoise, created by a beach of white pebbles that glisten in the sunlight. The steeply shelving seabed gives a graduated richness to the colour. It lies between Mt Kalón Oréon and Mt Agía Dynatí, famous in Greek mythology as the rock thrown by Cronus, leader of the Titans.
Sámi has an extraordinary network of subterranean waterways and caves. The huge Drogaráti cave, believed to be more than a million years old, has hundreds of stalactites and stalagmites, formed over thousands of years. With superb acoustics, the creatively lit cave is often used for cultural and musical events. Nearby is the equally famous Melissáni cave, said to have been the sanctuary of the god Pan. Its lake is deep blue, highlighted by the sun shining through a hole in the cave’s roof. Other minor caves nearby are Angaláki, Zerváti, Ágii Theódori and Agía Eleoúsa.
Itháki is famous for being mentioned in the works of Homer, and is thought to be the home of the mythological King Odysseus. It has a contrasting landscape with mountains and cliffs to the west and dense forest and pebble coves to the east. Its Heptanesian capital, Vathý, has buildings of traditional architecture, which look out over one of the world’s largest harbours. Other attractions include Píso Aetós, believed to be the site of Odysseus’s palace, and the pretty Fríkes harbour.
Zákynthos is a gem of an island with high mountains clothed in cypress trees and some stunning beaches, the most famous of which are Navágio and Laganás bay in the south. Its bustling capital, Zákynthos Town, was rebuilt to its original Venetian look and layout after being destroyed in the 1953 earthquake. Places to visit include the beautiful Blue Caves, where the sea has eroded the rocks into caverns.
Lying to Paxí’s south is the small satellite island of Andípaxi, with a population of less than 60 permanent inhabitants. It is a haven of clear turquoise waters and golden beaches, including Vríka beach, nestled in a sheltered cove, and nearby Voutoúmi beach. It is possible to take a walk along the coastal path that links the two. Andípaxi, which can be reached by boat from Gäios on Paxí, is covered with vineyards, which provide the grapes used to make its local wine.
Morning
The Ionian islands are scattered over a large area and not given to island hopping in the same way as the other Greek island groups. However, it is still possible to get from one island to another relatively easily. Kefalloniá, Zákynthos and Corfu, for example, all have airports offering domestic flights, while yacht charter companies offer boat hire. Ferries also ply between most of the islands.
One of the most popular ferry routes is a day-trip to Paxí from Corfu. Start your day at the New Port in Corfu Town and look for the signs indicating where you can catch the Flying Dolphin hyrdrofoil. There are daily departures in summer, but the first departure time varies depending on the day of the week. On board you can relax before disembarking at Gäios New Port on Paxí. The journey time is about an hour. In Gäios you can hire a car or taxi to take you around the island. Head to the fishing village of Longós for a delicious lunch at one of the waterfront tavernas.
Afternoon
After lunch take the road signposted to Lákka. Be sure to explore the town before driving south past the communities of Magaziá and Oziás, then back to Gäios. Take time to explore the harbourside. Enjoy a meal and then hop on your hydrofoil, which departs around 7pm, for the return journey.
The 590-BC Gorgon Medusa, a frieze from Artemis’ Temple, is the star exhibit here.
This grand estate was built in the 1820s by the second High Commissioner of the Ionians, Sir Frederick Adam.
Empress Elisabeth of Austria, known as Sissi, created this Neo-Classical palace in the 1890s. Statues of Greek gods adorn the house and gardens.
At 900 m (3,000 ft), Corfu’s highest mountain offers great views. Its tiny villages are set among olive groves and pine forests.
This 5-km- (3-mile-) long freshwater lagoon is home to many species of wildlife.
The ruins of this bastion, built by a 13th-century duke, Michail Angelos Komninós II, are well-preserved.
The tall houses and tiny streets in this attractive riverside town, famous for its excellent wine, are good examples of local architecture.
A popular tourist village, Kassiópi offers a wide choice of harbourside tavernas. Important artifacts excavated at Angevin castle ruins are displayed in the Archeological Museum.
Pre-Neolithic remains found here reveal Sidári’s long history. It is now a tourist hotspot famous for its rock formations which have created a channel, known as the Canal d’Amour.
Benítses is one of the liveliest tourist resorts on the island, with tavernas, children’s play areas, watersports and a buzzing nightlife.
This attractive restaurant is known for its authentic Corfiot dishes prepared by Agnes, the owner, using organic ingredients. The menu includes moussakás and squid served with herbs.
Traditional Greek dishes like pastitsáda (beef in tomato) and kléftiko (lamb with herbs) are served in this traditional stone taverna in a village setting. Eat inside or alfresco on the terrace.
Classic Greek music played on a bouzouki, dancing and Corfiot dishes are the order of the day at this taverna, housed in what was once a village bakery.
Perched on a cliff overlooking the beach, this is the place to dine on local dishes while watching the sun set over the waters below.
This taverna serves its own Corfiot recipes with a modern twist and accompanied by good house wine. Try the prawn saganáki.
Surrounded by citrus trees that give it its name, this restaurant serves char-grilled meat and fish dishes flavoured with herbs from the garden, and wine and cocktails.
Artfully presented Corfiot dishes are served on the terrace at this stylish bistro. Special diets are also catered for.
An imaginative menu of appetizers, pasta, meat and seafood dishes, fine wines and a great location overlooking the sea combine to give this place an edge. It offers a children’s menu too.
This fashionable bistro-café has an earth-themed decor and serves creatively presented light meals and desserts with wine.
Decorated to resemble a traditional Italian trattoria and serving authentic dishes and wines from Italy, La Famiglia is one of the best restaurants in the town centre.
The island’s capital and port, Zákynthos Town, is characterized by Neo-Classical architecture, elegant squares and a bustling harbourside. Sights include the Ágios Dionýsios church.
More than 1,500 exhibits show-case the island’s flora and fauna. Both educational and enchanting, the museum is fun for children too.
These caves have amazing sculpted rock formations and caverns, surrounded by a sapphire blue sea. Take a boat out for the best view.
One of the few villages to escape destruction in the 1953 earthquake, Kerí retains original stone houses. Surrounded by vineyards, it produces some of the island’s best wine.
This is a breeding ground for the endangered loggerhead turtle. These creatures come ashore to lay their eggs on the protected Laganás beach.
This mountain village is best known for its traditional textiles and its Venetian Baroque church, Agía Paraskeví, which has the finest gilded iconostasis screens on the island.
This stunning beach is often called Shipwreck Bay because of a freighter that sits partially buried in the sand in this sheltered cove.
Zákynthos’ patron saint, St Dionýsios, was a monk at the 14th-century monastery of Panagía Anafonítria, located in this sleepy mountain village.
This small traditional village is best known for the temple of Artemis, where remains, such as coins and ceramics, were discovered.
Visit the 14th-century Agía Mávra church here, with its frescoes and well-preserved icons, one of which is believed to be miraculous.
Known for its home-made dips, such as tzatzíki made from local yoghurt, cucumber and garlic, and its classic dishes, this restaurant offers the option to dine in its garden.
With great views of the Gulf of Laganás, this long-established restaurant serves Greek and international dishes accompanied by local wines. It is a great place to chill out with friends.
If you fancy mingling with locals while enjoying an informal meal of crêpes and pancakes, both sweet and savoury, or a Greek evening meal, then this is the place to go to.
Popular with visitors and locals, this Italian eatery serves pasta, pizza straight from the oven, seafood dishes, delicious home-made sauces and wine.
A family-run taverna with nostalgic village memorabilia, this taverna is known for its delicious meat and fish dishes served char-grilled with herbs, salad and home-made olive bread.
With panoramic views from its hilltop location, Lofos serves authentic Greek dishes using local produce. Dine on the terrace if the weather is good.
This restaurant grows its own produce in an organic garden. The menu includes special fish dishes and traditional Greek plates.
This restaurant celebrates all things Italian, from its pasta and pizza dishes, desserts and regional Italian wine to its decor. Soft music completes the dining experience.
Char-grilled meat and fish, and classic Zákynthian dishes, such as pastitsáda (tender beef served in a spicy sauce), are served with flair at this taverna.
Serving Italian pizza with a choice of toppings, home-made pasta, Mexican nachos and Greek mezédes, this lively family-orientated restaurant in the centre of Tsiliví caters for almost every taste.
Widely considered one of the most beautiful bays in the world, Mýrtos Bay boasts exquisite turquoise sea and dazzling white sand.
With its traditional houses and lively harbour full of tavernas, Sámi is popular with visitors. It is famous for Melissáni lake and Drogaráti cave.
Kefalloniá’s capital, Argostóli, was almost entirely destroyed in the 1953 earthquake. It was rebuilt partly in its original Venetian style, and life here revolves around its main square, Plateía Valliánou.
The island’s second-largest community, Lixoúri is an elegant town on the coast of the Pallíki peninsula. It has remained a popular tourist spot since the 19th century.
This is one of the oldest sites on the island. Excavations here have revealed the remains of a fortress, coins, pottery and 1600-BC Mycenaean tombs.
According to folklore, Lake Ávythos is bottomless. It is a habitat for diverse flora and fauna.
The remains of Old Skála, which was destroyed in the 1953 earthquake, and a Roman Villa with well-preserved mosaics are worth seeing in this attractive beach-side resort.
One of the island’s prettiest coastal villages, Ássos has traditional architecture and sandy beaches. A small isthmus joins it to a Venetian castle’s remains atop an islet.
Overlooking the bay, this picturesque fishing harbour, lined by tavernas, has clear water and a long sandy beach. Nearby are the remains of a small 13th-century monastery.
Pastel-coloured Venetian buildings that survived the 1953 earthquake and cypress trees characterize Fiskárdo. It is known for its fish restaurants.
Overlooking the bay, this elegant restaurant serves Greek meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, many taken from the cook books written by its owner, Tassía Dendrínou. The wine served here is international.
Located in the centre of the village of Skála, Siroco serves a wide selection of fresh local dishes.
Overlooking the harbour, this friendly taverna is run by two brothers. The extensive menu offers delicious regional cuisine and includes plenty of dishes made with locally caught fish.
Salkitier, a dish of pork in a spicy mustard sauce, and stifádo cooked with veal are just two of the recipes you might find on the menu at this stylish restaurant.
Serving breakfast and lunch around its swimming pool, the Pikiona transforms into a cocktail bar and fine dining restaurant by night. The menu is Greek and Mediterranean.
This traditional taverna, with a terrace surrounded by bougainvillea, is popular for lunch and evening dining. On the menu are classic Kefallonián dishes, such as pork krasáto, a wine-flavoured dish.
Taking its name from the massive plane (plátanos) tree outside, this restaurant specializes in fresh fish. There are meat and vegetarian options too.
The bright pink and blue property that houses Alexis is easy to find on the harbourside. The menu includes meals based on classic Kefallonián cuisine and local wines.
Known for its authentic country dishes, such as moussakás and meat pie, Tzivras has offered a taste of rural Kefalloniá for well over 75 years.
The menu here offers a mix of Mediterranean styles, such as Greek, French and Italian, often combining them in one dish. Try the prawns.
Open since 1980, the Harbour Bar is a landmark on the waterfront. It is a great place to relax over coffee or evening cocktails while watching the bustling harbour.
Housed in an underground cave off the beach, the lively La Grotta offers different genres of music, ranging from jazz to hip hop, plus an array of cocktails.
Renowned for its doughnuts, this café also serves a wide range of drinks, snacks and ice creams, and has beautiful views across Gäios Harbour.
Aromas from its wood oven tend to tempt passers-by to stop at the Tavern Nefeli. This family-run eatery serves Mediterranean-style breakfasts, snacks and light meals on its terrace.
A lively café-bar, Muses has a menu of light snacks and exotic-looking cocktails, a lounge with screens showing live sports and a garden terrace with a children’s play area.
The chic decor, imaginative light-food menu and fabulous wine list of this attractive café are French-inspired. It is open all day for lunch and dinner.
Built on the site of a Greek watermill, this venue has been a favourite with locals and tourists for years. There are two bars and a rooftop lounge with pool access for customers. Friday night is Greek night.
This lively café-bar has three widescreen TVs, Greek-themed evenings and bingo and table games nights.
Its chic decor, central location, 60-plus cocktails and non-alcoholic “mocktails”, and jazz tunes playing in the background make 155 Cocktail Bar a fashionable place to relax.
The charming Café Liotrivi is housed in an old harbourside olive-oil press building. Items used to crush the olives can still be seen. The café has a menu of cool drinks and light snacks.
Opened in 1970, this restaurant has a faithful clientele and is known for its delicious char-grilled fish dishes served with herbs and lemon. Dine inside or on its vine-covered terrace.
Great for lunch or evening dining, Nassos is known for its local fish dishes, such as swordfish, sea bream, octopus and squid, served in tangy sauces. Wines are from local vineyards.
This traditional eatery has an extensive menu of classic Greek dishes. Try the moussakás made with local ingredients or something different, like octopus in red wine.
Artfully presented lobster, along with souvláki, kalamári (squid) and pastítsio (pasta dish), plus special coffees, are served at this popular restaurant, set in its own harbourside gardens.
You can dine alfresco at this trendy seafront taverna. The house speciality is its range of chargrilled fish from the harbour’s fishermen and wines from the local vineyards.
Fryni Sto Molo is known for its mezédes, a traditional way of eating where small portions of local dishes are brought to your table at intervals. Beer is served cold from the cask.
Serving dishes such as its signature kléftiko (lamb cooked with herbs in a Greek oven), the Limni Taverna stands in its own gardens of olive trees and shrubs.
This waterfront restaurant serves moussakás, souvláki and stifádo (For further details see Greek Dishes), based on recipes handed down through generations.
A family-run taverna with panoramic views of the harbour, this hillside eatery serves a mix of Greek and Venezuelan dishes and local wines.
Serving classic Greek dishes and fresh fish, plus local wines, this family-run eatery is one of the oldest in Vathý.
Characterized by its cypress trees, great beaches and the small town of Pórto where most of its inhabitants live, Ereíkoussa is one of the Diapontian islands and can be reached by boat from Sidári.
The smallest Diapontian island, Samothráki is known for its quiet pace of life. Tiny communities can be found in Benátika and around the port of Plákes.
Othonoí is where Odysseus met Nausika, according to Greek mythology. Offering a peaceful way of life, it is the largest Diapontian island, located between Samothráki and Ereíkoussa.
Rural Meganíssi is the largest island off Lefkáda. It has quiet beaches and just three villages, including attractive Katoméri and the capital Vathý, which has a harbour lined with yacht moorings.
Located in the bay off Nydrí, Madourí is a heavily forested island. Its sheltered coastline makes it a popular spot to sail around. The Greek poet Aristotélis Valaorítis (1824–1879) once lived here.
Spárti is covered with dense forest. Boats on day trips often drop anchor in the shallow water and sheltered coves of its slightly indented coastline.
Sometimes known as Theionísi, Diá island is the source of many legends. The most popular of these is that it was home to a temple dedicated to the Greek god Zeus.
A small islet off the private Skorpiós island, Skorpídi is known for its wildlife and wide variety of birds. You can take a boat from Nydrí and anchor up for a lovely day out.
The serene little islet of Lazaréto brings a smile to your face as you pass it by in the harbour of Vathý. It has a pretty whitewashed chapel, set among dense trees.
Part of the Zákynthos National Sea Park, the Strofádes islands of Arpiá and Stamfáni, plus a few smaller islets, are uninhabited except for the wildlife and a lone monk who is said to live there.
A favourite of Sir Frederick Adam (For further details see Mon Repos Estate), this sandy beach is quiet with just a handful of nearby tavernas. Offshore lies the Liapádes reef, a popular diving and snorkelling spot.
Sheer cliffs and golden sand characterize this horseshoe-shaped beach, which has been described as Europe’s most beautiful. It is favoured by naturists because of its seclusion.
There are interesting caves and rocks for snorkellers to explore around this west-coast beach. For those who like to take it easy, the sand is soft and the waters, cool.
With its horseshoe-shaped bay of golden sand and high cliffs, forested backdrop and curious off-shore rock formations, this is among the most picturesque beaches on Lefkáda (For further details see Pórto Katsíki Beach, Lefkáda).
This beach is particularly sandy, making it popular with not only visitors, but also with the endangered loggerhead turtles, the caretta caretta, which lay their eggs here.
Surrounded by forest and with beautiful soft sand, this isolated beach is tucked in a small bay on Meganíssi island. To find it, look out for signposts from Katoméri village (For further details see Megálo Limonári Beach, Meganíssi).
With a hiking track as its only access, Gidáki beach is unknown to most visitors and is therefore a great place to relax. Its bay, however, attracts some boats from Vathý during summer.
This secluded sandy beach can only be reached by boat and is therefore quiet. It is a favourite spot with people coming ashore from their yachts anchored in the bay.
World famous, this white sandy beach is protected by soaring cliffs on both sides. Also known as Shipwreck Bay, which refers to the freighter that sits partially buried in the sand, the beach is accessible only by boat (For further details see Navágio Beach).
Located in a deep bay surrounded by cypress trees and olive groves, this secluded sand and pebble beach is one of the finest here. Its waters are shallow and safe.