The Northeast Aegean Islands
A collage of ancient ruins, fabulous beaches, quaint villages and lush countryside, this archipelago is one of the least touched by modern-day tourism. The group comprises the larger islands of Límnos, with its elegant capital Mýrina, Lésvos, famous for its olives, Híos, which is both beautiful and vibrant, Sámos, known for its potent Muscat wine, and quiet, unspoilt Ikaría. The group also includes Thássos, inhabited since the Stone Age and with a tourism-oriented present, and undeveloped Samothráki, both up near the Macedonian coast. The islands share a landscape of rugged mountains, indented coastlines and glorious beaches. Tiny islets dot the surrounding waters, including Foúrni, Ágios Efstrátios, Psará and the wildlife haven of Andípsara.
Néa Moní, Híos
Detail, Néa Moní monastery, Híos
Pride of the Northeast Aegean Islands, this once wealthy 11th-century monastery is considered one of the finest examples of Macedonian Renaissance art and architecture in the world (For further details see Néa Moní, Híos).
Vathý, Sámos
The capital of Sámos, Vathý is an attractive town that hugs the base of the island’s deepest bay. Its narrow, cobbled lanes are lined with red-roofed Neo-Classical mansions, while the more modern area is a shoppers’ delight. Beyond are lush mountains with valleys of vineyards. Also known as Sámos Town, Vathý and its surrounding villages are famous for their golden, sweet Muscat wine. Its archaeological museum has a rich collection of artifacts, including the famous 580 BC koúros (male nude statue).
- Archaeological Museum of Sámos
- Kapetán Gymnasiárchou Katevéni, Vathý
- 22730 27469
- open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun
- adm
Pythagóreio and Heraion, Sámos
Plinth from Polykrates temple, Heraion
The town of Pythagóreio is a popular tourist spot but beyond the tavernas lining its harbour, visitors will find vestiges of a centuries-old civilization. Nearby is the Sanctuary of Heraion, said to be where Hera, the goddess of fertility, was cult worshipped (For further details see Pythagóreio and Heraion, Sámos).
Thássos
This almost circular island has remains from the Bronze Age that suggest it had strong links with the Cyclades. In the 7th century BC, settlers from Páros colonized parts of Thássos and, with its natural gold and marble resources, the island has known a history of wealth and power. Today, this pine-covered island of white beaches, ancient ruins and a coastline of deep bays is a popular package holiday destination. Its inland villages offer a glimpse of the past.
Foúrni
While almost every family on Foúrni owns a fishing boat, few own a car, which probably explains why activity centres around its bustling harbourside. It is here where most of the Foúrni residents live and work, and where visitors can find small tavernas and some excellent shops. An island of cliffs, long stretches of sandy beach and deep bays that once made it a pirates’ paradise, this is a popular day-trip destination from the nearby islands of Sámos, Pátmos and Ikaría.
Sanctuary of the Great Gods, Samothráki
Lésvos
The third largest Greek island, Lésvos revolves around its capital, the elegant Mytilíni. Impressive churches and mansions line its harbourside. The town of Agiásos is considered the island’s most picturesque and is famous for owning an icon believed to have been painted by St Luke. Villages of interest include Ypsiloú, situated near a fossilized forest and an extinct volcano. Lésvos, or Lesbos as it is often referred to, is most famous as being the birthplace of Sappho, the ancient female poet who wrote erotic poems to other women.
Límnos
In Greek mythology, Límnos is credited with being where Hephaestus, the god of metalworking, landed after being hurled out of Olympus by his angry father Zeus. A volcanic island, Límnos, or Lemnos, is largely flat with vineyards of lava soil sloping towards wide, sandy beaches. Its capital is Mýrina, a town of Neo-Classical and Ottoman buildings and cobbled streets, dominated by its imposing Venetian kástro (castle). The island is known for its outstanding wine and herbal honey.
Ikaría
Ikaría is named after Ikaros, the foolhardy son of ancient craftsman Daedalus. According to legend, Ikaros fell to his death after flying too close to the sun in artificial wings. It has been inhabited since Neolithic times, and was part of the Genoese Aegean Empire and later the Ottoman Empire until its independence in 1912. Once a favourite haunt of pirates, evident in the defensive layout of its villages, Ikaría has rich soil which produces excellent wines. Its residents are known for their longevity.
Psará and Andípsara
Psará is best known for its heroic Freedom or Death flag to which Psariots have been famously faithful in the face of battle. The most celebrated stance was in 1824 when, faced with the Ottoman invasion, residents blew both themselves and their invaders up with gunpowder. A poem, The Destruction of Psará, was written by Greek poet Dionýsios Solomós to mark the event. Psará’s neighbour is the uninhabited Andípsara island. An important environmental and wildlife sanctuary, many interesting birds roost here, including Eleonora’s falcon and the Mediterranean shearwater.
- Off Híos
Samothráki
With the 1,600-m- (5,250-ft-) high Mt Fengári, hot thermal springs, olives groves, forests of oak and chestnut and two spectacular waterfalls, Samothráki has one of the most dramatic landscapes of all the East Aegean islands. At its heart is the capital Hóra, an elegant town of squares and cobbled streets. Nearby is the ancient capital of the island, Palaiópolis, and the remains of the Sanctuary of the Great Gods.
Day Trip to Foúrni
Morning
Foúrni can be reached easily by ferry from Vathý harbour or Pátmos harbour on Sámos and Ágios Kírykos on Ikaría. Foúrni Ferries and Greek Ferries are two of the companies serving the island. Departure and return times, as well as prices, vary, so do check in advance. After a hearty breakfast, head to the port of your choice. Most ferries leave between 9am and 10am and crossing times are short (under 20 minutes from Ikaría). Ferries pull into Foúrni’s harbour, a lively place of working fishermen, who mingle with visitors and local families going about their daily business. Promenade cafés offer the chance of a mid-morning coffee and snack. From here, head into Foúrni town which centres around its main square, linked with the harbour by a single tree-lined street. Take time to admire the traditional Eastern Aegean architecture and shop along the agorá, known locally as the “shopping mile”. Be sure to stop for lunch in one of the fish tavernas for which Foúrni is famous.
Afternoon
After lunch, take a short walk to Kambí, famous for its windmills, and Psilí Ámmos, where there are some fine beaches and bays to explore. Alternatively, head north by car or boat to the small, sleepy village of Chrisomiliá, where life has changed little in many decades, before heading back to the harbour for your return crossing.
Sights: Híos
Híos Town
With a history that has seen prosperity under the Genoese, a massacre by the Ottomans and huge earthquake destruction, Híos is now an attractive and modern capital.
Avgónyma
One of the most attractive hillside villages on the island, Avgónyma has elegantly restored houses and is home to many Greek-Americans.
Moní Moúndon
This 16th-century monastery is known for its well-preserved murals, including the famous Salvation of Souls on the Ladder. It is only open to the public for its festival every 29 August.
Volissós
This picturesque village, with restored stone houses arranged in amphitheatre-fashion around a mountain, is dominated by a ruined Byzantine castle.
Kámbos
Wealthy merchants and nobles once had summer mansions in Kámbos, before Híos’ destruction in 1822. Citrus groves surround this popular area.
Vrontádos
Known for its landmark windmills, this village hugs the shore of a bay. Fishing boats line its quayside. Sights include the Moní Agíou Stefánou monastery.
Mastic Villages
Known as mastihohória or “mastic villages”, these 20 or so fortified settlements, including Mestá, Pýrgi and Olýmbi, are so called due to the lucrative mastic gum industry.
Mestá
Mesta has one of the finest examples of defensive architecture for which the mastic villages are known. Its outer stone buildings join to create a wall. Its castle and churches are also worth visiting.
Pýrgi
Named after a medieval tower that stands in the village, Pýrgi is best known for its painted houses. Many façades are decorated with the grey and white geometric pattern known as xystá.
Olýmbi
With its fortress-like layout whereby the whole village is contained within a wall, the only en-trance being the Kato Porta watchtower, Olýmbi is regarded as a medieval monument.
Places to Eat and Drink: Híos
Mavrokordatiko Restaurant
Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century stone building, this restaurant regularly hosts special events, such as Greek nights. Dine on Greek and international dishes in the courtyard or inside.
- 1 Mitaráki, Kámbos
- 22710 32900
- Prices vary
Pýrgos Restaurant
One of the oldest tavernas in Avgónyma, this family-run establishment serves traditional dishes. Try the spinach balls with Greek salad.
- Avgónyma
- 22710 42175
- €20–€30
To Apomero
Dine at To Apomero for Greek dishes with a modern twist. The location offers fabulous views across the Aegean to the Turkish coast. It gets busy at weekends.
- Kambos, Híos Town
- 22710 29675
- €20–€30
Chotsas Taverna
Known for the wine and oúzo made by the proprietor, Chotsas serves a choice of grilled and oven-cooked dishes.
- Georgíou Kondíou 3, Híos Town
- 22710 42787
- €20–€30
Tzivaeri
The tempting dishes at this town centre ouzerí include fish or meat mezédes and shrimp pie. Oúzo and local wines are served.
- 13 Neórion Street, Híos Town
- 22710 43559
- €20–€30
Mesaionas Taverna
Afélia (pork) and kléftiko (lamb) are just two of the delicious oven-cooked dishes on the menu at this popular taverna. Wine is local and includes souma, which is produced in the village.
- Mestá
- 22710 76050
- €20–€30
Roussiko
Located in a wonderful stone building in the small village of Thymiana, Roussiko serves classic Greek food on a rooftop terrace. The speciality is lamb or pork kotsi (a shank cut).
- Thymiana
- 22710 33352
- €20–€30
Makellos
Makellos is a traditional taverna best known for its herísia (made by hand) dishes. These include dolmadákia or dolmádes (vine leaves stuffed with currants and rice) and macaroni.
- Pityós, central Híos
- 22720 23364
- €20–€30
Byzantio
The classic Greek dishes at Byzantio include plenty of vegetarian options. Try the beans, okra and aubergine cooked in oil.
- Afon Ralli Central Market, Híos Town
- 22710 41035
- €20–€30
To Tavernaki tou Tassou
With its brightly painted decor and tables overlooking the bay, this seafront taverna is popular with locals and visitors. Its menu features a selection of seafood.
- Livánou 8, Híos Town
- 22710 27542
- €20–€30
Sights: Lésvos
Mytilíni Town
The capital of Lésvos, Mytilíni has a multi-cultural feel, with a selection of fine international restaurants, waterfront bars, museums, belle époque churches and Venetian and Ottoman mansions.
Míthymna (Mólyvos)
Dominated by its Byzantine castle, this village, locally known as Mólyvos, is characterized by its colourful stone houses and harbour. Míthymna is believed to be the birthplace of ancient poet Arion.
Moní Ypsiloú
Founded in the 12th century, this sprawling monastery sits on top of an extinct volcano, Mt Órdymnos. It has a superb collection of religious icons and an intricate wood ceiling in its katholikon (main church).
Agiásos
Famous as a centre for pottery (still practiced today), this picturesque village is a labyrinth of tiny lanes lined with stone houses. Its church dates from the 12th century.
Sykaminiá
Perched on Mt Lepétymnos’ slopes, life in this village of red and white houses revolves around its harbour. Strátis Myrivílis, author of the novel The Mermaid Madonna which is set on Lésvos, was born here.
Sigrí
A quiet harbour, Sigrí boasts a petrified forest – fossils of trees buried under lava for three million years.
Ándissa
An unspoilt village, Ándissa lies near the site of a former city destroyed in 168 BC by the Romans. Life centres around its café-lined square.
Mantamádos
This village of paved squares and stone houses is famous for its pottery and a rare icon of the saint Taxiarch Archangel Michael displayed in its monastery, the Moní Taxiarchón.
Kalloní
Situated at the crossroads for routes to and from the main towns, this hillside village is famous for its sardines.
Pétra
A once sleepy village, Pétra is becoming a popular holiday spot due to its wide beach and shallow water. A volcanic monolith dominates its shore.
Places to Eat and Drink: Lésvos
Taverna Vafeios
Greek gourmet-style dishes and the Lésvian dish of baked stuffed lamb with garlic can be enjoyed at this rural taverna. Produce is from its own gardens.
- Oikismós Vafiós, Vafiós
- 22530 71752
- €30–€40
Ramona Restaurant
The tables at the Ramona could not be closer to the sea, providing a great ambiance for enjoying traditional Greek cuisine and local wines.
- Mólyvos beach, Míthymna (Mólyvos)
- 69708 45594
- €20–€30
Averof
One of the oldest and most traditional tavernas in Mytilíni, the Averof serves oven-baked dishes like kléftiko (lamb), stifádo (beef) and afélia (pork). It is inexpensive and ideal for a quick lunch.
- Ermoú Street, Mytilíni Town
- 22510 22180
- €20–€30
Cavo d’Oro
The speciality of this super fish restaurant, close to where fishing boats unload their daily catch, is fish mezédes.
- Harbourside, Sigrí
- 22530 54221
- €20–€30
Thalassa
Located in a prime position on Petra's main promenade, Thalassa specializes in seafood dishes. The shrimp saganáki is an unusual twist on a Greek favourite.
- Promenade, Petra, Lésvos
- 22530 41366
- €20–€30
Aphrodite Hotel Restaurant
Open to non-residents, this hotel eatery is known for its “all-you-can-eat” buffet of traditional Greek and Lésvian dishes. Music is played most nights, while drinks comprise local wines and cocktails.
- Vaterá, near Mytilíni Town
- 22520 61288
- €20–€30
Orizontas Café Restaurant
This restaurant, characterized by its colourful linens, cobbled terrace and palm trees, is right by the beach. It serves light snacks, traditional Greek meals and drinks.
- Mólyvos beach, Míthymna (Mólyvos)
- 22530 71861
- €20–€30
Navagio Restaurant
Overlooking the sea, this elegant venue has a coffee house on the first floor and a restaurant on the second floor, where gourmet-style Greek dishes are served. It offers a fine wine list.
- Sappho Square, Mytilíni Town
- 22510 42609
- €30–€40
The Captain’s Table
Fish features prominently on the menu at this village taverna. It is as popular with locals as it is with visitors.
- Míthymna (Mólyvos)
- 22530 71241
- €20–€30
Triena Café Restaurant
Enjoy breakfast or lunch at this trendy café, along with romantic evening meals, looking out over the harbour.
- Mólyvos beach
- 22530 71350
- €20–€30
Islands, Bays and Beaches
Elínda Beach, Híos
This is a wonderful secluded beach of fine, golden sand and crystal-clear water within a deep bay. The surrounding hills protect the bay from strong winds.
- West coast, near Anávatos
Mávros Gialós, Híos
Also known as Mávra Vólia, this beach lines a bay of turquoise waters. It has black pebbles, which were created by the lava of a nearby volcano and worn smooth by the sea over time.
- South coast, near Emboreiós
Kokkári Beach, Sámos
Catching strong winds, Kokkári is one of the islands’ best beaches for windsurfing. The pebbled beach lies next to a tourist resort, which has a variety of amenities.
- North coast
Mykáli Beach, Sámos
Popular with locals, who can often be seen enjoying a picnic here, this white-pebble beach is one of the longest along this coastline. Mykáli beach is protected from the wind and has no amenities.
- Southeast coast, near Psilí Ámmos
Foúrni Island
Once a haunt of pirates, this fishing island has some deep, protected bays, sheer cliffs and long sandy beaches. Its harbour is a bustling place, full of boats, tavernas, locals and visitors (For further details see Foúrni).
Alykí Bay, Thássos
Widely regarded as one of the most beautiful harbours in the Greek Islands, this richly forested bay of pine and olive trees has two sandy beaches, clear waters and unusual rock formations.
- Southeast coast
Inoússes Island
Daily life on this charming, unspoilt island centres around its harbour, where a small museum tells the story of its maritime history. The landscape is dotted with olive groves and stone villages.
- East of Híos
Psará Island
This unspoilt island is best known for the heroic but bloody stand it took against the Ottoman invasion of 1824. It is celebrated every year on 22 June.
- Off Híos
Karfás Beach, Híos
The liveliest tourist beach on the island, Karfás has fine sand, gentle waters and amenities that include sunbeds, tropical-style umbrellas and nearby bars and cafés. Watersports are available.
- East coast, near Híos Town
Ánaxos Beach, Lésvos
Looking across the bay towards Mólyvos, this lively beach is long, sandy and lined with bars and tavernas. There are resorts nearby, making it popular with tourists.
- Pétra
Restaurants
Irodion Garden, Sámos
Housed in a stylish Neo-Classical villa, this restaurant has several terraces for alfresco dining. There’s a broad menu with some unusual specials, such as spare ribs.
- Aristarxou 34
- 22730 61642
- €20–€30
Marina Restaurant, Sámos
Enjoy local dishes such as stuffed kalamári, stifádo and pastítsio (For further details see Greek Dishes) at this popular restaurant. You can dine on the terrace overlooking the gardens.
- Potámi, Kokkári
- 22730 92692
- €20–€30
The Fisherman (Psarades), Sámos
With tables set on a terrace right by the waterside and a menu of freshly caught fish, this is one of the most popular restaurants on the island.
- Harbourside, Agios Nikólaos
- 22730 32489
- €20–€30
O Glaros, Límnos
Known as much for its great views of the kástro (castle) as its super menu, this is a great place to enjoy fish. Try the lobster with spaghetti.
- Harbourside, Mýrina Town
- 22540 22220
- €20–€30
Klimataria Restaurant, Samothráki
Famous for its speciality dish, gianiótiko (baked pork with potato and eggs), this restaurant has a traditional and elegant feel. Wines and music are Greek.
- Seafront, Hóra
- 25510 41535
- €20–€30
Karnagio Taverna, Thássos
This ouzerí, built into rock on the seafront, has tables on the beach and a roof terrace with great views. Soft music and light Greek meals help make this a memorable place.
- Seafront Liménas
- 25930 23170
- €30–€40
Anna’s Restaurant, Ikaría
Overlooking the sea, this small fish restaurant has a good reputation for its imaginative menu. Be sure to try its lobster with lemon and stuffed kalamári.
- Nas
- 22750 71489
- under €20
Fengari Restaurant, Samothráki
Delicious baked dishes such as kléftiko with bread, are cooked in traditional wood ovens at this popular taverna.
- Loutrá
- 25510 98321
- €20–€30
Taverna Steki, Thássos
Enjoy international cuisine as well as local Greek dishes made by the owner, Katerina, at this family-run taverna. Most of the vegetables come straight from her garden.
- Potamiá
- 25930 61009
- €20–€30
Tavern Zorbas, Thássos
Close to the village centre and the beach, this traditional taverna serves a wide range of grills, local dishes like afélia (pork), souvláki and desserts. Local wines and beers are a speciality.
- Skála Prínou
- 25930 71483
- under €20