Map: Charles de Gaulle Airport
This chapter covers Paris’ two main airports, one smaller airport, seven train stations, its main bus station, and connections to the cruise port of Le Havre. It also includes parking tips for drivers.
Whether you’re aiming to catch a train or plane, budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Paris is a big, crowded city, and getting across town on time is a goal you’ll share with millions of other harried people. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals. At the airport, expect lines at ticketing, check-in, baggage check, and security points. Always keep your luggage safely near you. Thieves prey on jet-lagged and confused tourists on public transportation.
Paris’ main airport (airport code: CDG) has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3 (see map). Most flights from the US use T-1 or T-2 (check your ticket, or contact your airline). You can travel between terminals on the free CDGVAL automated shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7). Allow 30 minutes to travel between terminals and an hour for total travel time between your gates at T-1 and T-2. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.
When leaving Paris, make sure you know which terminal you are departing from (if it’s T-2, you’ll also need to know which hall you’re leaving from—they’re labeled A through F). Plan to arrive at the airport two to three hours early for an overseas flight, or one to two hours for flights within Europe (particularly on budget airlines, which can have especially long check-in lines). For flight info, dial either 3950 from French landlines (€0.35/minute) or, from the US, dial 011 33 1 70 36 39 50, or visit www.adp.fr.
Services: All terminals have airport information desks (called ADP) and tourist information counters (labeled Paris Tourisme), and both are colored bright orange so they’re hard to miss. At the Paris Tourisme counters you can get city maps, buy a Paris Museum Pass, and get tickets for the RoissyBus or RER train to Paris—a terrific time- and hassle-saver. You’ll also find ATMs (distributeurs), shops, cafés, and bars. The airport offers 15 minutes of free (but slow) Wi-Fi; pay €2 for 30 faster additional minutes. If you are returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area or ask for their location at any ADP information desk.
This circular terminal has three key floors—arrival (arrivées) on the top floor, and two floors for departures (départs) below. The terminal’s round shape can be confusing—if you feel like you’re going around in circles, you probably are.
Arrival Level (niveau arrivée): After passing through customs, you’ll exit between doors (porte) 34 and 36. Nearby are orange ADP information desks with English-speaking staff, a café, a newsstand, and an ATM. Walk counterclockwise around the terminal to find the Paris Tourisme desk (door 6). Walk clockwise to find ground transportation: Air France and RoissyBus (door 34), car rental counters (doors 24-30), and taxis (door 24). To find the Disneyland shuttle bus, follow CDGVAL signs to the free CDGVAL shuttle train on floor 1; take it to T-2, then walk to T-2E/F, door 8.
Departure Levels (niveaux départ): Scan the departure screen to find out which hall you should go to for check-in. Halls 1-4 are on floor 2, and 5-6 are downstairs on floor 1. Also on floor 1 are the CDGVAL shuttle train, cafés, a post office (La Poste), pharmacy, boutiques, and a handy grocery. Boarding gates and duty-free shopping are located on floor 3, which is only accessible with a boarding pass.
This long, horseshoe-shaped terminal is divided into six halls, labeled A through F. If arriving here, prepare for long walks and, in some cases, short train rides to baggage claim and exits. It’s a busy place, so take a deep breath and follow signage carefully. The orange airport information desks and Paris Tourisme counters are located near gate 6/8 in each hall. Taxi stops are well signed. To locate bus stops for Air France and RoissyBus—marked on the map on the previous page—follow Paris by Bus signs. For the Disneyland shuttle, follow signs to T-2E/F, door 8.
T-2 has a train station, with RER suburban trains into Paris (described later), as well as longer-distance trains to the rest of France (including high-speed TGV trains). It’s located between T-2C/D and T-2E/F, below the Sheraton Hotel (prepare for a long walk to reach your train).
Car-rental offices, post offices, pharmacies, and ATMs are all well-signed. T-2E/F has several duty-free shopping arcades, and other T-2 halls have smaller duty-free shops. You can stash your bags at Baggage du Monde, located above the train station in T-2, but it’s pricey (€18 for 12-24 hours, daily 6:00-21:30, tel. 01 34 38 58 90, www.bagagesdumonde.com). Some Paris train stations can store for much less.
Buses, airport vans, commuter trains, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. If you’re traveling with two or more companions, carrying lots of baggage, or are just plain tired, taxis are worth the extra cost. Total travel time to your hotel should be around 1.25 hours by bus and Métro, one hour by train and Métro, and 50 minutes by taxi. Keep in mind that, at the airport, using buses (and taxis) requires shorter walks than taking RER trains. Also remember that transfers to Métro lines often involve stairs. For more information, check the “Getting There” tab at www.charlesdegaulleairport.co.uk.
By Bus: RoissyBus makes the 50-minute, non-stop trip to the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris, arriving on Rue Scribe. From there, you can take the Métro to anywhere in the city. To get to the Métro entrance or nearest taxi stand, turn left as you exit the bus and walk counterclockwise around the lavish Opéra building to its front (€11, runs 6:00-23:00, 4/hour until 20:45, 3/hour after that, 50 minutes, buy ticket on bus, tel. 3246, www.ratp.fr/en).
For Rue Cler hotels, take Métro line 8 (direction: Balard) to La Tour Maubourg or Ecole Militaire. For hotels in the Marais neighborhood, take line 8 (direction: Créteil Préfecture) to the Bastille stop. A taxi to any of my listed hotels costs about €12 from here.
“Les Cars” Air France buses run at least twice hourly from 5:45 until 23:00 (tel. 08 92 35 08 20, www.lescarsairfrance.com). Bus #2 goes to the Etoile stop near the Arc de Triomphe (€17, 45 minutes, see map on here) and Porte Maillot (with connections to Beauvais Airport, described later). Once at the Arc de Triomphe, catch city bus #92 (one block away) to the Rue Cler area or city bus #30 to Montmartre. Bus #4 runs to Gare de Lyon (€17.50, 45 minutes) and the Montparnasse Tower/train station (€17.50, 1 hour). Bus #3 goes to Orly airport (€21, 1 hour). There is a 10 percent discount for booking your tickets online (be sure to print out your tickets and bring them with you) or pay the driver full price. Round-trip tickets shave roughly 20 percent off the cost of your journey, and groups of four or more are offered an additional discount. See the “Les Cars” website for details.
From Paris to the airport, catch Air France buses at Etoile/Arc de Triomphe (on Avenue Carnot—the non-Champs-Elysées side), Porte Maillot (on Boulevard Gouvion-St-Cyr—east side of the Palais des Congres), Gare Montparnasse (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte—facing the station with the tower behind you, it’s around the left side), or Gare de Lyon (look for Navette-Aéroport signs, and find the stop on Rue Diderot across from Café Les Deux Savoies).
By Airport Van: The shuttle vans from Charles de Gaulle work like those at home, carrying passengers directly to and from their hotels, with stops along the way to pick up other passengers. Shuttles work best for trips from your hotel to the airport, since they require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t ever know exactly when your flight will actually arrive. Airport vans cost about €32 for one person, €46 for two, and €58 for three. While these vans take longer to reach the airport than a taxi does, compared to taxis they’re a good value for single travelers and big families. Have your hotelier book at least a day in advance.
Several companies offer shuttle service; I usually just go with the one my hotel normally uses.
Paris Webservices’ private car service actually works well from the airport to Paris, because they meet you inside the terminal and wait if you’re late. For a one-way trip they charge €80 for up to two people. Booking round-trip costs about €160-180 for up to four people. Rick Steves readers get a 10 percent discount by mentioning promo code “PWS52K15” when you reserve, and showing your driver this book (tel. 01 45 56 91 67, www.pariswebservices.com, contact@pariswebservices.com). They also offer guided tours—see here.
By RER: Paris’ suburban commuter train is the fastest public transit option for getting between the airport and the city center (€10, 4/hour, 35 minutes to Gare du Nord, runs 5:00-24:00). It runs directly to well-located RER/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop the Métro to get exactly where you need to go. The RER is handy and cheap, but it can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10-15 minutes and may include stairs.
To reach the RER from the airport terminal, follow Paris by Train signs, then RER signs. (If you’re landing at T-1 or T-3, you’ll need to take the CDGVAL shuttle to reach the RER station.) The RER station at T-2 is busy with long ticket-window lines (the other airport RER station, located between T-1 and T-2, is quieter). Buy tickets at a Paris Tourisme counter or from the machines at the station to save time (use the green-colored machines labeled Paris/Ile de France, coins required, break your bills at an airport shop). Beware of thieves; wear your money belt, and keep your bags close. For step-by-step instructions on taking the RER into Paris, see www.parisbytrain.com (see the options under “CDG Airport to Paris”).
To return to the airport by RER from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 10-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest RER station serving line B, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 30-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). Your Métro or bus ticket is not valid on the RER train to the airport; buy the ticket from a clerk or the machines (coins only) at the RER-B station. When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop served. (The line splits, so not every line B train serves the airport.) If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gaul?” Once at the airport, hop out either at T-2 or T-1/3 (where you can connect to T-1 or T-3 on the CDGVAL shuttle).
By Taxi: The 50-minute trip costs about €65. Taxis are less appealing on weekday mornings as traffic into Paris can be bad—in that case, the train is likely a better option. Taxis can carry three people with bags comfortably, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger for €3 extra (though they may not like it). Larger parties can wait for a larger vehicle. Expect to pay a €1/bag handling fee. Don’t take an unauthorized taxi from cabbies greeting you on arrival. Official taxi stands are well-signed.
For trips from Paris to the airport, have your hotel arrange it. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more (and gives your hotel a kickback). For weekday morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€5 reservation fee payable by credit card). For more on taxis in Paris, see here.
By Car: Car-rental desks are well-signed from the arrival halls. Be prepared for a maze of ramps as you drive away from the lot—get directions from the rental clerks when you do the paperwork.
When returning your car, allow ample time to reach the drop-off lots (at T-1 and T-2), especially if flying out of T-2. Be sure you know your flight’s departure hall in T-2 (for example, many Air France and Delta flights for North America leave from T-2E/F). There are separate rental return lots depending on your T-2 departure hall—and imperfect signage can make the return lots especially confusing to navigate.
The Val d’Europe (VEA) Disneyland shuttle bus leaves from T-2E/F, door 8 (€20, runs every 45 minutes 8:30-20:00ish, 45 minutes, vea-shuttle.co.uk). TGV trains also run to Disneyland from the airport in 10 minutes, but leave less frequently (hourly) and require a shuttle bus ride at the Disneyland end.
This easy-to-navigate airport (airport code: ORY) feels small, but has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more (for flight info from French landlines dial 3950, from the US dial 011 33 1 70 36 39 50, www.adp.fr). Orly is good for rental-car pickup and drop-off, as it’s closer to Paris and far easier to navigate than Charles de Gaulle Airport.
Orly has two terminals: Ouest (west) and Sud (south). Air France and a few other carriers arrive at Ouest; most others use Sud. At both terminals, arrivals are on the ground level (level 0) and departures are on level 1. You can connect the two terminals with the free Orlyval shuttle train (well signed) or with any of the shuttle buses that also travel into downtown Paris.
Services: Both terminals have red Paris Tourisme desks where you can get maps of Paris, buy the Paris Museum Pass and tickets for public transit into Paris, and book hotels. There are also orange ADP information desks (near baggage claim) with information on flights, public transit into Paris, and help with other airport-related questions—take advantage of this good information source while you wait for your bags. Both terminals offer 15 minutes of free Wi-Fi (€2/30 minutes of faster Wi-Fi). At the Sud terminal, you can get online for free at McDonald’s (departure level).
Shuttle buses (navettes), the RER, taxis, and airport vans connect Paris with either terminal. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels and are well signed.
By Bus: Bus bays are found in the Sud terminal outside exits L and G, and in the Ouest terminal outside exits C, D, and H.
“Les Cars” Air France bus #1 runs to Gare Montparnasse, Invalides, and Etoile Métro stops, all of which have connections to several Métro lines. Upon request, drivers will also stop at the Porte d’Orléans Métro stop. For the Rue Cler neighborhood, take the bus to Invalides, then the Métro to La Tour Maubourg or Ecole Militaire. Buses depart from Ouest arrival level exit B-C or Sud exit L: Look for signs to navettes (€12.50 one-way, 4/hour, 40 minutes to Invalides, buy ticket from driver or save 10 percent by booking your tickets online—be sure to print out your tickets and bring them with you). Round-trip tickets save you 20 percent, and groups of four or more are offered an additional discount. See www.lescarsairfrance.com for details.
For the cheapest access to the Marais area, take tramway line 7 from outside the Sud terminal (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif Métro station, line 7 (35 minutes, €3.40—plus one Métro ticket—4/hour).
By Bus and RER: The next two options take you to the RER suburban train’s line B, with access to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and RER-B stations (€7.50, 3/hour, 30 minutes). The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony RER station, where you can catch the RER-B (€11, 6/hour, 40 minutes, buy ticket before boarding). The Orlyval train is well signed and leaves from the departure level at both terminals. Once at the RER-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris stops.
For access to RER line C, take the bus marked Pont de Rungis. From the Pont de Rungis station, you can catch the RER-C to Gare d’Austerlitz, St. Michel/Notre-Dame, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides and Pont de l’Alma (€7.50, 4/hour, 35 minutes).
By Taxi: Taxis are outside the Ouest terminal exit B, and to the far right as you leave the Sud terminal at exit M. Allow 30 minutes for a taxi ride into central Paris (about €45 with bags; for more information on airport taxis, see here).
By Airport Van: Airport vans are a good means of getting from Paris to the airport, especially for single travelers or families of four or more (too many for most taxis; for information on airport vans, see here). From Orly, figure about €23 for one person or €30 for two people (less per person for larger groups and kids).
The Val d’Europe (VEA) shuttle bus to Disneyland departs from the main bus bays at both terminals (€20, hourly 9:00-19:30, 45 minutes, http://vea-shuttle.co.uk).
Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport, offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas are crowded, and services are sparse, but improvements are gradually on the way (airport code: BVA, airport tel. 08 92 68 20 66—lines open daily 8:00-20:00, www.aeroportbeauvais.com; Ryanair tel. 08 92 78 02 10—lines open Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00; www.ryanair.com).
By Bus: Buses depart from the airport when they’re full (about 20 minutes after flights arrive) and take 1.5 hours to reach Paris. Buy your ticket (€17 one-way, €16 online) at the little kiosk to the right as you exit the airport. Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the west edge of Paris (on Métro line 1 and RER-C). The closest taxi stand is at the Hôtel Hyatt Regency.
Buses heading to Beauvais Airport leave from Porte Maillot about 3.25 hours before scheduled flight departures. Catch the bus in the parking lot on Boulevard Pershing next to the Hyatt Regency. Arrive with enough time to purchase your bus ticket before boarding or buy online at http://tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com.
By Train: Trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (20/day, 1.25 hours). To reach Beauvais’ train station, take the Beauvais navette shuttle bus (€4.50, 6/day, 30 minutes) or local bus #12 (€1, 12/day, 30 minutes).
By Taxi: Cabs run from Beauvais Airport to Beauvais’ train station or city center (€15), or to central Paris (allow €150 and 1.25 hours).
The Val d’Europe (VEA) shuttle bus to Disneyland runs from Beauvais via Charles de Gaulle Airport (€25, 2-3/day, 2.5 hours, http://vea-shuttle.co.uk).
“Les Cars” Air France bus #3 directly and conveniently links Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports (€21, stops at Charles de Gaulle T-1 and T-2 and Orly Ouest exit B-C or Sud exit L, roughly 2/hour, 1 hour, 5:45-23:00). See www.lescarsairfrance.com for details.
RER line B connects Charles de Gaulle and Orly but requires a transfer to the Orlyval train. It isn’t as easy as the Air France bus mentioned above, though it’s faster when there’s traffic (€19, 5/hour, 1.5 hours). This line splits at both ends: Heading from Charles de Gaulle to Orly, take trains that serve the Antony stop (direction: St-Rémy-les-Chevreuse), then transfer to Orlyval shuttle train; heading from Orly to Charles de Gaulle, take trains that end at the airport—Aéroport Charles de Gaulle-Roissy, not Mitry-Claye. You can also connect Charles de Gaulle or Orly airports to Beauvais via train. Take the RER-B to Gare du Nord, catch a train to Beauvais, and then a shuttle or local bus to Beauvais Airport (see “Beauvais Airport,” earlier).
Val d’Europe (VEA) buses run between Beauvais and Charles de Gaulle, en route to Disneyland (€16, 2-3/day, 1-1.5 hours, http://vea-shuttle.co.uk).
Taxis are easiest, but pricey: Between Charles de Gaulle and Orly, it’s about €80 and one hour; between Charles de Gaulle and Beauvais, €120 and one hour; and between Orly and Beauvais, €160 and 1.5 hours.
If your Paris visit is part of a longer European trip, and you’re considering a train ride that’s more than five hours long, a flight may save you both time and money. When comparing your options, factor in the time it takes to get to the airport and how early you’ll need to arrive to check in.
The best comparison search engine for both international and intra-European flights is www.kayak.com. For inexpensive flights within Europe, try www.skyscanner.com or www.hipmunk.com; for inexpensive international flights, try www.vayama.com.
Well-known cheapo airlines include easyJet (www.easyjet.com), which flies out of Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports, and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), which flies out of Beauvais Airport. Also check Air France for specials.
Be aware of the potential drawbacks of flying on the cheap: nonrefundable and nonchangeable tickets, minimal or nonexistent customer service, treks to airports far outside town, and stingy baggage allowances with steep overage fees. If you’re traveling with lots of luggage, a cheap flight can quickly become a bad deal. To avoid unpleasant surprises, read the small print and add up the cost of all the extras before you book.
France’s rail system (SNCF) sets the pace in Europe. Its super TGV (tay zhay vay; train à grande vitesse) system has inspired bullet trains throughout the world. The TGV runs at 170-220 mph. Its rails are fused into one long, continuous track for a faster and smoother ride. The TGV has changed commuting patterns throughout France by putting most of the country within day-trip distance of Paris. For more on train travel, see www.ricksteves.com/rail.
Schedules change by season, weekday, and weekend. Verify train times shown in this book—online, check www.bahn.com (Germany’s excellent all-Europe schedule site), or check locally at train stations. The French rail website (www.sncf.com) shows ticket prices and sells some tickets online (worth checking if you’re traveling on one or two long-distance trains without a rail pass, as advance-purchase discounts can be a great deal).
Buying Tickets: While there’s no deadline to buy any train ticket, the fast, reserved TGV trains get booked up. Reserve well ahead for any TGV you cannot afford to miss. Tickets go on sale 90 to 120 days in advance, with a wide range of prices on any one route. The cheapest tickets sell out early and reservations for rail-pass holders also go particularly fast.
To buy the cheapest advance-discount tickets (50 percent less than full-fare), visit http://en.voyages-sncf.com, three to four months ahead of your travel date. When you visit you may get a pop-up window asking you to choose between being sent to the Rail Europe website or staying on the SNCF page—click “Stay.” Next, choose “Train,” then “TGV,” and “Book your tickets.” When you’ve picked your travel dates, choose “France” as your ticket collection country. Select the cheapest, non-refundable category of tickets, called “Prem’s,” and be sure that it says “TGV” (avoid iDTGV trains—they’re very cheap, but this SNCF subsidiary doesn’t accept PayPal). Choose the eticket delivery option (which you can print at home), and pay using a PayPal account. These low-rate tickets may not be available from Rail Europe or other USA agents.
After the non-refundable rates are sold out, you currently can buy other fare types on the French site only if you have set up a Verified by Visa or MasterCard SecureCode program for your US credit card. Otherwise, US customers have to order from Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com), which offers both etickets and home delivery, but doesn’t have access to some of the cheapest rates.
If you’re in the train station and still need a ticket, buy it from a ticket window or from a machine (pay in cash as US credit cards normally do not work). You can buy tickets on the train for a €4-10 surcharge depending on the length of your trip, but you must find the conductor immediately upon boarding; otherwise it’s a €35 minimum charge.
Reservations: All high-speed trains (TGVs) in France require a seat reservation. If you’re buying a point-to-point ticket, you’ll reserve your seat when you purchase your ticket. Book as early as possible, and consider buying key TGV trips online before you leave home (separate from your rail pass). These trains fill fast, and some routes use TGV trains almost exclusively. This is especially true if you’re traveling with a rail pass, as TGV passholder reservations are limited, and sell out well before other seat reservations do. Rail-pass holders can’t book TGV reservations at French stations within three days of departure, but can book reservations as etickets at www.raileurope.com—if any seats are still available.
If you’re taking an overnight train and you need a couchette (overnight bunk), consider booking it in advance through a US agent (such as www.raileurope.com). Night trains between Paris and Italy do not accept rail passes—only their own Thello-brand tickets; book ahead for the best price at www.thello.com or www.raileurope.com.
Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor one, and trains heading in different directions:
• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)
• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)
• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)
• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)
• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Bercy (smaller station with non-TGV southbound trains)
All six main train stations have banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, telephones, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag firmly gripped in front of you). Because of security concerns, not all have baggage checks.
Any train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. Buying tickets is handier from an SNCF neighborhood office (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar, later.
Each station offers two types of rail service: long distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines); and suburban service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or RER. You also may see ticket windows identified as Ile de France. These are for Transilien trains serving destinations outside Paris in the Ile de France region (usually no more than an hour from Paris). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks. Métro and RER trains, as well as buses and taxis, are well-marked at every station.
Budget plenty of time before your departure to factor in ticket lines and making your way through large, crowded stations. Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down, take a deep breath, and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. Bring a pad of paper and a pen for clear communication at ticket/info windows. It helps to write down the ticket you want. For instance: “28/05/15 Paris-Nord→Lyon dep. 18:30.” All stations have helpful information booths (accueil); the bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows. I make a habit of confirming my track number and departure time with these helpers.
The granddaddy of Paris’ train stations serves cities in northern France and international destinations north of Paris, including Copenhagen, Amsterdam (see “To Brussels and Amsterdam by Thalys Train,” later), and the Eurostar to London (see “To London by Eurostar Train,” also later), as well as two of the day trips described in this book (Chantilly and Auvers-sur-Oise).
From the Métro, follow Grandes Lignes signs (main lines) to reach the tracks at street level. Grandes Lignes trains depart from tracks 2-21 (tracks 20 and 21 are around the corner), suburban Banlieue/Transilien lines from tracks 30-36 (signed Réseau Ile-de-France), and RER trains from tracks 37-44 (tracks 41-44 are one floor below). Glass train information booths (accueil) are scattered throughout the station, and information-helpers circulate (all rail staff are required to speak English).
There’s a helpful TI (labeled Paris Tourisme) kiosk near track 19 that provides free maps and sells Paris Museum Passes and fast-pass “coupe-file” tickets (credit cards only, no cash accepted at this TI). Information booths for the Thalys trains (high-speed trains to Brussels and Amsterdam) are opposite track 8. All non-Eurostar main-line ticket sales are at the windows 4-8, opposite tracks 4 and 12. Tickets for suburban trains are sold at the windows past track 19.
Eurostar trains (to London via the Chunnel) check in on the second level, up the stairs near track 17, or up the glass elevator near track 10. For more on the Eurostar, see “To London by Eurostar Train,” later.
WCs are down the stairs across from track 10 (€0.50). Baggage check and rental cars are near track 3 and down the steps. Taxis are out the door past track 3. Steps down to the Métro are opposite tracks 10 and 19.
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Auvers-sur Oise (hourly, 1.25 hours with transfer, one direct train April-Oct Sat-Sun only at about 9:30, 35 minutes), Chantilly-Gouvieux (hourly, fewer on weekends, 25 minutes, also served by slower RER-D lines), Brussels (about 2/hour, 1.5 hours), Bruges (at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam (8-10/day, 3.5 hours direct), Berlin (4/day, 8.25 hours, 1-2 changes, via Belgium, non-Belgium-traversing trains leave from Gare de l’Est), Koblenz (8/day, 5 hours, change in Cologne, more from Gare de l’Est that don’t cross Belgium), Copenhagen (7/day, 14-18 hours, 1 night train), and London via Eurostar Chunnel train (12-15/day, 2.5-3 hours).
By Banlieue/RER Lines: Chantilly-Gouvieux (3/hour, 50 minutes), Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 35 minutes, runs 5:00-24:00, track 41-44).
This big, modern station covers three floors, serves lower Normandy and Brittany, and has TGV service to the Loire Valley and southwestern France, as well as suburban service to Chartres.
Baggage check (consigne) and WCs are on the mezzanine (entresol) level. Most services are provided on the top level (second floor up, Hall 1), where all trains arrive and depart. Trains to Chartres usually depart from tracks 18-24, and the main rail information office (accueil) is opposite track 15. As you face the tracks, to the far left and outside are Air France buses to Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte). Taxis are to the far right as you face the tracks; also to the right, along track 24 and up the escalator to Hall 2, are car rental desks (except Hertz, which is outside the train station at 15 Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte).
City buses are out front, between the train station and the Montparnasse Tower (down the escalator through the glassy facade). Bus #96 is good for connecting to Marais and Luxembourg area hotels, while #92 is ideal for Rue Cler hotels (both easier than the Métro).
Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (14/day, 1 hour), Amboise (8/day in 1.5 hours with change in St-Pierre-des-Corps, requires TGV reservation; non-TGV trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (3/day, 5.5 hours, via Rennes or Caen), Dinan (6/day, 4 hours, change in Rennes and Dol), Bordeaux (20/day, 3.5 hours), Sarlat (3/day, 5.5-6.5 hours, change in Libourne or Bordeaux), Toulouse (8/day, 5-7 hours, most require change, usually in Bordeaux or Montpellier), Albi (4/day, 6.5-9 hours, change in Toulouse), Tours (10/day, 1.25 hours), Madrid (3/day, 12-14 hours), and Lisbon (2/day, 21-24 hours via Irun).
This huge, bewildering station offers TGV and regular service to southeastern France, Italy, Switzerland, and other international destinations. Frequent Banlieue trains serve Melun (near Vaux-le-Vicomte) and Fontainebleau.
From the RER or Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes to reach the street-level platforms (Grandes Lignes and Banlieue lines share the same tracks). Platforms are divided into two areas: Hall 1 (tracks A-N, shaded in light blue) and Hall 2 (tracks 5-23, shaded in yellow). Monitors indicate the hall number well before the track number is posted, so you know in advance which hall your train leaves from. The two halls are connected by a corridor offering many services, including shops and ticket windows for Grandes Lignes and suburban trains (billets Ile de France). A TI office is in Hall 1, opposite track M (open Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, closed Sun, offers free maps and sells Paris Museum Passes and fast-pass coupe-file tickets; credit cards only, no cash accepted). Train information booths are opposite tracks A and M in Hall 1 and near track 11 in Hall 2 (others are downstairs). Hall 2 has the best services—including a pharmacy and a good Monop grocery store. You’ll find baggage check (consigne) in Hall 2 down the ramp, opposite track 17, and in Hall 1, downstairs by track M. Car rental is out the exit past track M (Hall 1).
Don’t leave this station without at least taking a peek at the recommended Le Train Bleu Restaurant in Hall 1, up the stairs opposite tracks G-L (see listing on here). Its pricey-but-atmospheric bar/lounge works well as a quiet waiting area—and there’s free Wi-Fi. Slip into a red leather couch and time travel back to another era.
Taxi stands are well-signed in front of, and underneath, the station. “Les Cars” Air France buses to Gare Montparnasse (easy transfer to Orly Airport) and direct to Charles de Gaulle Airport stop outside the station’s main entrance. They are signed Navette-Aéroport. To find them, exit Hall 1 with your back to track A. Walk down toward the Café Européen, but don’t cross the street. The stop is to the right, on Rue Diderot across from Café Les Deux Savoies (second bus shelter up). Buses normally depart at :15 and :45 after the hour; see “By Bus” on here).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Vaux-le-Vicomte (train to Melun, 2/hour by SNCF Banlieue train, 30 minutes; 3/hour by RER-D, 50 minutes), Fontainebleau (nearly hourly, 45 minutes; depart from the Grandes Lignes level), Disneyland (RER line A-4 to Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy, at least 3/hour, 45 minutes), Beaune (roughly hourly at rush hour but few mid-day, 2.5 hours, most require change in Dijon; direct trains from Paris’ Bercy station take an hour longer), Dijon (roughly hourly at rush hour but few mid-day, 1.5 hours), Chamonix (7/day, 5.5-7 hours, some change in Switzerland), Annecy (hourly, 4 hours, many with change in Lyon), Lyon (at least hourly, 2 hours), Avignon (10/day direct, 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV Station, 5/day in 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville Station, more connections with change—3-4 hours), Arles (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with change in Avignon—5 hours), Nice (hourly, 5.75 hours, may require change, 11.5-hour night train possible out of Gare d’Austerlitz), Carcassonne (8/day, 7-8 hours, 1 change, night trains leave from Gare d’Austerlitz), Zürich (6/day direct, 4 hours), Venice (5/day, 10-12 hours with 1-3 changes; 1 direct overnight, 14 hours, operated by private company Thello—which doesn’t accept rail passes, important to reserve ahead at www.thello.com), Rome (3/day, 11-16 hours), Bern (15/day, 4.5-5.5 hours), Interlaken (7/day, 5-6.5 hours, 1-3 changes, 2 more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2/day, 6.5 hours, change in Figueres).
This two-floor station (with underground Métro) serves northeastern France and international destinations east of Paris. It’s easy to navigate: All trains depart at street level from tracks 1-30. Check the departure monitors to see which section your train leaves from: Departures marked with a yellow square leave from tracks 2-12, while those marked with a blue square depart from tracks 22-30 (suburban Banlieue trains depart from tracks 13-21). A train information office is opposite track 17, and ticket sales are at each end of the station through the halls opposite tracks 8 and 25. Most other services are down the escalator through the hall opposite tracks 12-20 (baggage lockers, car rental, WC, small grocery store, more shops, and Métro access). There’s a post office at track level, near the top of the escalators. Access to taxis and buses is out the front of the station (exit with your back to the tracks).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Colmar (12/day with TGV, 3.5 hours, change in Strasbourg), Strasbourg (hourly with TGV, 2.5 hours), Reims’ Centre Station (12/day with TGV, 45 minutes), Verdun (4/day with TGV, 45 minutes; 3 hours by regional train with transfer in Chalôns-en-Champagne), Interlaken (2/day, 6.5 hours, 2-3 changes, 7 more from Gare de Lyon), Zürich (7/day, 5-6 hours, 1-2 changes, faster direct trains from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (5 direct/day, 4 hours; 4 more/day with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Vienna (7/day, 12-17 hours, 1-3 changes, night train via Munich or Frankfurt), Prague (5/day, 12-18 hours, night train via Mannheim or Munich), Munich (6/day, 6 hours, most with 1 change, 1 direct night train), and Berlin (5/day, 8.5 hours, 1-2 changes; 1 direct night train, 12.5 hours).
This compact station serves upper Normandy, including Rouen and Giverny. All trains arrive and depart one floor above street level.
From the Métro, follow signs to Grandes Lignes to reach the tracks (long walk). Grandes Lignes to all destinations listed below depart from tracks 23-27; Banlieue trains depart from 1-16. The ticket office and car rental are near track 27. Train information offices (accueil) are scattered about the station. This station has no baggage check, but it does have a three-floor shopping mall with a small grocery store, clothing, and more (with your back to the tracks, head a few steps through the halls). Taxis, the Métro, and buses are well-signed.
Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Giverny (train to Vernon, 8/day Mon-Sat, 6/day Sun, 45 minutes), Rouen (nearly hourly, 1.5 hours), Le Havre (hourly, 2.25 hours, some change in Rouen), Honfleur (13/day, 2-3.5 hours, via Lisieux, Deauville, or Le Havre, then bus), Bayeux (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Caen (14/day, 2 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (2/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This small station provides non-TGV service to the Loire Valley, southwestern France, and Spain. All tracks are at street level. The information booth is opposite track 17, and all ticket sales are in the hall opposite track 10. Baggage check, WCs (with €6 showers that include towel, soap, and the works), and car rental are along the side of the station, opposite track 21. To get to the Métro and RER, you must walk outside and along either side of the station.
Key Destinations Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Versailles (via RER-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes), Amboise (3/day direct in 2 hours, 5/day with transfer in Blois or Les Aubrais-Orléans; faster TGV connection from Gare Montparnasse), Sarlat (1/day, 6.25 hours, requires change to bus in Souillac, 3 more/day via Gare Montparnasse), Carcassonne (1 direct night train, 7.5 hours, plus a decent night train via Toulouse, better day trains from Gare de Lyon), and Cahors (5/day, 5 hours, at least 1 direct night train; slower trains from Gare Montparnasse).
This smaller station mostly handles southbound non-TGV trains, but some TGV trains do stop here in peak season (Mo: Bercy, one stop east of Gare de Lyon on line 14, exit the Bercy Métro station and it’s across the street). Facilities are limited—just a WC and a sandwich-fare takeout café.
The pricey Thalys train has the monopoly on the rail route between Paris and Brussels (for a cheaper option, try the Eurolines bus, tel. 08 36 69 52 52, www.eurolines.com). Without a rail pass you’ll pay about €160-210 first class, €65-120 second class for the Paris-Amsterdam train (compared to €38-50 by bus), or about €40-70 second class for the Paris-Brussels train (compared to €30 by bus). Even with a rail pass, you need to pay for train reservations (second class-€27-39; first class-€42-62, includes a meal). Book early for best rates (seats are limited in various discount categories, www.thalys.com). Or hop on the bus, Gus.
A TGV train called OUIGO (pronounced “we go”) offers a direct connection from Disneyland Paris to select cities in southern France at rock-bottom fares with no-frills service. The catch: These trains leave from the Marne-la-Vallée TGV station, an hour from Paris on RER-A. So you can hang at Disneyland Paris before (or after) your trip south and connect with a direct TGV. You must print your own ticket ahead of time, arrive 30 minutes before departure, and validate your ticket. You can’t use a rail pass, and you can only bring one carry-on-size bag plus one handbag for free (children’s tickets allow you to bring a stroller). Larger or extra luggage is €5/bag if you pay when you buy your ticket. If you just show up without paying in advance, it’s €20/bag on the train—yikes. There’s no food service on the train (BYO), but children under age 12 pay only €5 for a seat! The website explains it all in easy-to-understand English (www.ouigo.com).
The fastest and most convenient way to get from the Eiffel Tower to Big Ben is by rail. Eurostar zips you (and up to 800 others in 18 sleek cars) from downtown Paris to downtown London (1-2/hour, 2.5 hours) faster and more easily than flying. The train goes 190 mph both before and after the English Channel crossing. The actual tunnel crossing is a 20-minute, silent, 100-mile-per-hour nonevent. Your ears won’t even pop. Get ready for more high-speed connections: Eurostar’s monopoly expired at the beginning of 2010, and Germany’s national railroad is negotiating to run its bullet trains through the Chunnel by 2016.
Eurostar Fares: The Eurostar is not covered by rail passes and always requires a separate, reserved train ticket. Eurostar fares vary depending on how far ahead you reserve, whether you can live with restrictions (refundable vs. non-refundable tickets), and whether you’re eligible for any discounts.
A one-way, full-fare ticket (with no restrictions on refunds) runs about $210-250 (Standard), $250-330 (Standard Premier), and $410 (Business). Discounts can lower fares substantially (figure $60-160 for second class, one-way) for children under 12, youths under 26, seniors 60 or older, adults booking months ahead or traveling round-trip, and rail-pass holders. The early bird gets the best price. If you’re ready to commit, you can book tickets as early as 4-9 months in advance.
Buying Eurostar Tickets: Because only the most expensive (full-fare) ticket is fully refundable, don’t reserve until you’re sure of your plans. But if you wait too long, the cheapest tickets will get bought up.
Once you’re confident about the time and date of your crossing, you can check and book tickets by phone or online at www.ricksteves.com/eurostar or www.eurostar.com. Ordering online through Eurostar or major agents offers a print-at-home eticket option. You can also order by phone through Rail Europe at US tel. 800-387-6782 for home delivery before you go, or through Eurostar (French tel. 08 92 35 35 39, priced in euros) and pick up your ticket at the train station. In Europe you can buy your Eurostar ticket at any major train station in any country, at neighborhood SNCF offices (see the “SNCF Boutiques” sidebar, earlier), or at any travel agency that handles train tickets (expect a booking fee). You can purchase passholder discount tickets at Eurostar departure stations, through US agents, or by phone with Eurostar, but they may be harder to get at other train stations and travel agencies, and are a discount category that can sell out.
Remember France’s time zone is one hour later than Britain’s. Times printed on tickets are local times (departure from Paris is French time, arrival in London is British time).
Taking the Eurostar: Eurostar trains depart from and arrive at Paris’ Gare du Nord (see here). Check in at least 45 minutes in advance for your Eurostar trip. It’s very similar to an airport check-in: You pass through airport-like security, fill out a customs form, show your passport to customs officials, and find a TV monitor to locate your departure gate. The currency-exchange booth here has rates about the same as you’ll find on the other end. There’s a reasonable restaurant before the first check-in point. Once you start the check-in process, there are only a couple of tiny sandwich-and-coffee counters, and the waiting area can get pretty cramped.
Crossing the Channel Without Eurostar: For speed and affordability, look into cheap flights. The old-fashioned ways of crossing the Channel are cheaper than Eurostar (taking the bus is cheapest). They’re also twice as romantic, complicated, and time-consuming.
The main bus station is Gare Routière du Paris-Gallieni (28 Avenue du Général de Gaulle, in suburb of Bagnolet, Mo: Gallieni, tel. 01 49 72 51 51). Buses provide cheaper—if less comfortable and more time-consuming—transportation to major European cities. The bus is also the cheapest way to cross the English Channel; book at least two days in advance for the best fares. Eurolines’ buses depart from here (tel. 08 36 69 52 52, www.eurolines.com). Look on their website for offices in central Paris.
Street parking is generally free at night (19:00 to 9:00), all day Sunday, and anytime in August, when many Parisians are on vacation. To pay for streetside parking, you must go to a tabac and buy a parking card (une carte de stationnement), sold in €15 and €45 denominations (figure €2-3.60/hour in central Paris). Insert the card into the meter (chip-side in) and punch the desired amount of time, then take the receipt and display it in your windshield. Meters limit street parking to a maximum of two hours. For a longer stay, park for less at an airport (about €10/day) and take public transport or a taxi into the city. Underground lots are numerous in Paris—you’ll find them under Ecole Militaire, St. Sulpice Church, Les Invalides, the Bastille, and the Panthéon; all charge about €30-40/day (€60/3 days, €10/day more after that, for locations see www.vincipark.com). Some hotels offer parking for less—ask your hotelier.
Though it’s a landlocked city, Paris is an increasingly popular cruise destination. Ships visiting “Paris” actually call at the industrial city of Le Havre, a 2.25-hour train trip north.
Le Havre’s sprawling port area—harboring industrial, leisure, and cruise ships—stretches along the northern bank of the Seine River. The main TI is at the western edge of town, between the marina and the beach (daily July-Aug 9:00-19:00, Sept-June 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:30; Wi-Fi, 186 Boulevard Clemenceau, tel. 02 32 74 04 04, www.lehavretourisme.com); additional branches are downtown and at the cruise terminal.
Le Havre’s cruise port is located about a mile and a half southwest of the train station at Pointe de Floride, which is flanked by two piers: Roger Meunier Pier and Pierre Callet Pier. Both feed into a spacious, modern terminal building with Internet access, a TI, car rental, bike rental, a gift shop, and WCs (www.cruiselehavre.com).
Most cruise ships provide a shuttle bus that takes passengers to various points in Le Havre. If your bus doesn’t stop at the train station itself, get off at Les Docks (a shopping and entertainment complex) and walk five minutes north, crossing the harbor canal on the Passerelle Hubert Raoul Duval footbridge.
If there’s no shuttle bus, you can take a taxi to the train station for about €8.
It’s a 35-minute walk from Le Havre’s cruise port through industrial zones to the train station. Turn right out of the terminal and follow centre-ville signs out of the port (green pedestrian-area stripes guide you along the length of the pier). Exiting the port area, you soon reach a big roundabout; bear right onto Quai Casimir Delavigne, then turn right onto Rue André Carette, which becomes Quai Colbert; from here, gares signs lead you (left, up the wide Cours de la République) to the train station.
This big port city isn’t worth lingering in. But if you have time to kill, its top sight is the Malraux Museum (a.k.a. “MuMa”), with a superb collection of works by Impressionist biggies who lived and worked in Normandy: Monet, Renoir, Degas, Manet, and others (€5, Wed-Mon 11:00-18:00, Sat-Sun until 19:00, closed Tue, 2 Boulevard Clemenceau, tel. 02 35 19 62 62, www.muma-lehavre.fr). Le Havre also has a unique 1950s church (St. Joseph), a fine beach, a lively market hall, scenic hanging gardens, and a smattering of other sights.
Trains leave nearly hourly for Paris’ St. Lazare station (2.25 hours, €34.50 one-way; may require a change in Rouen, fewer trains on weekends). Most cruise lines offer a “Paris on Your Own” excursion, which consists of an un-narrated bus ride from your ship to Paris (generally dropping you near Place de la Concorde), then back again at an appointed time (typically $110-130, compared to $85 for the round-trip train). A 10-hour round-trip taxi tour of Paris costs €460.