Gambas al Ajillo

SAUTÉED SHRIMP WITH GARLIC

SERVES 6 AS A MAIN DISH OR 10 AS A SMALL PLATE

Gambas rule as our number one tapa. This garlicky shrimp tapa is found all over Spain and is a must-have on our menu. From the day we opened, we discovered how much our diners adore this steaming dish of shrimp swimming in sherried olive oil. Because it combines so few ingredients, proper technique is key. The flavor develops when the garlic browns. We fear burning garlic—justifiably, since it becomes bitter when charred—but when taken to a very deep golden brown, it infuses the sherry-oil sauce with a nearly smoky complexity.

Splurge on the highest-quality shrimp, preferably a fresh, local catch. If you’re landlocked, Gulf shrimp from Florida are readily available in supermarkets. What you shouldn’t spend a lot on is sherry. Inexpensive dry cooking sherry, such as Taylor or Gibson, is fine. Save the expensive stuff for sipping.

Serve with crusty toasted bread for soaking up all the delicious juices.

2 pounds (26/30-count) shell-on shrimp (about 55)

½ cup blended oil

24 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

4 fresh bay leaves

6 dried arbol chiles

Kosher salt

1½ cups dry sherry wine

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

PEEL THE SHRIMP, LEAVING THE TAIL SHELL intact. devein the shrimp, then butterfly.

Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the garlic and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 1½ minutes. You will want to take this further than you think. We don’t want black bits of garlic, but we want them a deep golden brown. Add the shrimp, bay leaves, chiles, and 2 teaspoons salt. Toss the shrimp in the oil until just starting to color, about 2 minutes.

Add the sherry and flip the shrimp so that they cook on all sides. Once the shrimp have turned opaque, immediately transfer them to a bowl, leaving the sauce behind. I usually use tongs to pull each shrimp as it finishes cooking. This is to prevent overcooking the shrimp; it should take only 2 minutes to cook all of them.

Raise the heat to high and boil the sauce until it is reduced and the raw wine flavor of the sherry has diminished, about 1 minute. Return the shrimp to the skillet, add the parsley, and toss quickly to thoroughly coat the shrimp. Transfer the shrimp with its sauce to a serving bowl and serve immediately with crusty toasted bread.