PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES
Puerto de las Nieves was once the island’s principal port, but it suffered a blow in the 19th century with the construction of Puerto de la Luz in Las Palmas. The lack of major maritime traffic has allowed the enchanting harbour, with its blue-and-white houses, to retain its charm. Today it is the main departure point for Tenerife. Hundreds of visitors pass through the village everyday, but it merits more than a cursory glance through the bus window en route to the ferry.
NEED TO KNOW
Ermita de las Nieves: 928 89 82 62; open 11am–1pm Mon–Sat, 9–11am Sun
- Sample the local brew: strong coffee grown in the Agaete valley.
- Try to visit mid-week, as it gets very busy during weekends.
1. Old Relics
Puerto de las Nieves seems to be a magnet for disused devices from long-gone glory days. The odd-looking 19th-century windmill in Avenida de los Poetas is the only one of its kind on the island, while the old jib crane and limekiln now serve to fill tourists’ photograph albums.
Harbour lined with boats in Puerto de las Nieves
2. Bajada de la Rama
This 4 August celebration has its origins in a Canarii rain-making ceremony. Revellers gather here as much for the street party as for the tradition of beating the ocean with pine branches.
Revellers at Bajada de la Rama
3. Fishing
If eating other people’s catch isn’t enough, you could join the locals on the wharf and try to fish for your own. Or you could simply sip a coffee and watch the local fishermen repairing their nets in the harbour.
4. Reproduction of Maipés de Abajo
The Canarii burial site at this location was destroyed by construction work, and only a small reproduction of the tombs can be viewed here today. In contrast however, the Maipés de Arriba, in the Agaete Valley, survived the development of that area.
5. Seafood Restaurants
Sample the catch of the day in one of many family-run restaurants on the seafront. If you can’t decide on a dish, order a parrillada (mixed grill) of fish and seafood.
Seafood Restaurants
6. Beach
Out of the two beaches, most people opt for the one further from the port. While there’s no golden sand, the waters are calm and clean.
The beach, Puerto de las Nieves
7. Ferries to Tenerife
Boat trips to Tenerife leave from the port between 6:30am and 8:30pm and reach Santa Cruz in just over an hour.
8. Ermita de las Nieves
Model boats, gifts from fishermen, adorn the interior of this church. A Flemish triptych dedicated to the Virgen de las Nieves dominates.
9. Dedo de Dios
The curious basaltic monolith known as the “Finger of God” was destroyed in 2005 by a tropical storm. Despite the fact that it no longer exists, it is still the emblem of the village.
10. Diving and Surfing
If the pace of the village is a little slow, try out local watersports. Scuba diving is popular around the cliffs near Dedo de Dios, while surfers prefer Punta de las Viejas, just north of the port.
HIGHS AND LOWS
Puerto de las Nieves played a supporting role in the final years of the Conquest. From here, the region’s ruler, Tenesor Semidán, was taken on a boat to be baptized on the mainland as Fernando Guanarteme. The Spanish conquerors also launched their assault on Tenerife from this port. Later on, Puerto de las Nieves underwent periods of alternate ruin and prosperity, as trade with America ebbed and flowed.
