CANARII SITES
1. Cenobio de Valerón
Built without the use of modern tools, this cluster of miniature artificial caves represents an awe-inspiring feat of early engineering. For years, experts believed it to be a convent, but it is now widely agreed that the caves were used to store grain.
The tiny caves of Cenobio de Valerón
2. Tufia
This settlement is unusual as it has examples of both types of aboriginal home common to the island: cave dwellings, and the low stone houses unique to Gran Canaria. The coastal caves once inhabited by the Canarii now house 21st-century troglodytes, but the stone constructions are still in their original state. Dominating the scene is an immense tagoror (stone circle), where the elders would meet to make important decisions.
3. Túmulo de La Guancha
Though rather average when compared to the tombs of Egyptian royalty, this Canarii cemetery outshines others scattered around the island. It’s thought that the central sepulchre contained the guanarteme (king), while the aristocracy were laid to rest around him.
4. Roque Bentayga
Numerous dwellings and grain stores have been unearthed around this huge monolith the remnant of a volcanic crater, which was considered sacred (see Roque Bentayga and Cuevas del Rey) by the Canarii.
Roque Bentayga
5. Cuatro Puertas
If other aboriginal sites on the island fail to impress, visit Cuatro Puertas. This is the most remarkable man-made cave on Gran Canaria and in the whole archipelago. The large room with four “doors” was once a sacred place. A clear path marks the route around the site.
The atmospheric Cuatro Puertas
6. Arteara
The island’s most important Canarii burial site (see Arteara) is in an impressive location, nestled in a palm grove in the Fataga ravine. Making out the circular tombs among the debris of a stark lava field is not easy, but information panels help you to differentiate the sepulchres from the other rocks. The site covers an area 2 km (1 mile) wide.
7. La Fortaleza de Ansite
The last stronghold of the Canarii is pitted with caves overlooking the Tirajana ravine. You can imagine the islanders’ plight as they tried to repel the Spaniards, then threw themselves into the ravine shouting the motto “Atis Tirma” (For My Land).
8. Maipés de Arriba
Featuring around 500 tombs, the Maipés de Arriba may have been the principal burial ground for lowly Canarii. Look out for the different styles of tomb, particularly the circular towers, which were almost certainly the last resting place of aboriginal aristocracy. A similar site closer to the coast, the Maipés de Abajo, was destroyed by modern development; there’s a small-scale reproduction of it in Puerto de las Nieves.
9. Cañada de los Gatos
C/La Puntilla • 638 81 06 21. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (6pm in summer) • Adm
At this recently excavated coastal settlement at the mouth of the Mogán ravine, pathways lead around the well-preserved remains of 1,300-year-old houses, burial pits and caves. There’s also a café on site.
10. Cueva Pintada
In 1860, a local farmer stumbled across this painted cave, uncovering probably the most important archaeological find – and certainly the finest set of aboriginal paintings – in the whole archipelago. In 2006, after more than 20 years of repairs, the Cueva Pintada reopened to the public. The 3D film transports you back in time to the beginning of the Spanish conquest.
Paintings in Cueva Pintada
