CENTRAL AND WESTERN GRAN CANARIA
For years, the rugged central region could be traversed only by a series of tough paths, known as caminos reales. Today, hardy hikers continue to trek these old routes, though driving has long since ousted walking as the main way of getting about. The west of the island, however, remains largely unvisited and unspoiled. The plunging hollows nature has sliced from the towering cliffs hinder any road construction, meaning that the only way to explore this breathtaking region is on foot. Just three scary stretches of road lead to La Aldea de San Nicolás, the island’s remotest pueblo.
1. Tejeda
The main attraction of this town is its splendid location in the centre of the immense Caldera de Tejeda. This huge depression measures 18 km (11 miles) across. It was described by Spanish poet Miguel de Unamuno as “a tremendous upset of the innards of the earth”. As well as the spectacular vistas, there is a small art gallery and two farming museums.
Tejeda, nestled in a huge caldera
2. Pico de las Nieves
The island’s highest point (see Pico de las Nieves) naturally offers impressive vistas, if you can only get there before the clouds do. After winter snowfalls, the area is swamped with islanders wanting to get a brief glimpse of the white stuff. The area is also known as Pozo de las Nieves (“Well of the Snows”): nearby, there is an abandoned well once used to collect snow, which was then taken to the capital for food preservation.
View over the clouds at Pico de las Nieves, Gran Canaria’s highest peak
3. Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita
Artenara is one of the few places to have maintained the tradition of inhabiting caves, and tourists can stay in an adapted grotto. Although the main church is an impressive 19th-century construction, the chapel closest to the hearts of the locals is the Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita. Gouged out of a cliff face, the chapel has few religious images other than the statue of the Virgen de la Cuevita (“Madonna of the Little Cave”). Oddly enough, she is the patron of both cyclists and Canarian folklore groups. To reach the chapel, follow the signs from the main square for the 10-minute uphill walk.
Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita
4. Roque Bentayga and Cuevas del Rey
Although best known as a place of worship and possibly a royal residence, this stumpy rock (see Roque Bentayga) was also a stronghold, playing its part in delaying the Conquest.
5. Cruz de Tejeda
This large, intricately carved crucifix of grey-green stone (see Cruz de Tejeda) marks the notional – though not the precise geographical – centre of the island. These days, all roads meet here, but for centuries this was a junction only of the caminos reales, the network of “king’s highways” that once crisscrossed the island. Most of the paths are still well maintained, offering dramatic mountain hikes. These include a lush downhill walk to Teror, various routes around the island’s centre, and a tough trek to Puerto de las Nieves on the coast.
Detail of the Cruz de Tejeda stone crucifix
6. Teror
This charming and historically important town (see Teror) offers the island’s very best examples of traditional architecture, and is also home to the impressive Basίlica de Nuestra Señora del Pino.
The traditional, brightly coloured architecture of historic Teror
7. Playa de Güigüí
For those who complain that Gran Canaria’s beaches are too built up and crowded, a trip to Güigüí is in order. Its fine, dark sand is flanked by looming cliffs, creating a breathtaking sight. You will have earned your day of sunbathing and relaxation by the time you arrive here. Engineers have yet to tunnel through the west coast cliffs, so the only way to get to Güigüí is on foot or by boat. Two hikes, from Puerto de la Aldea and Tasartico, reach the beach. Neither is easy, but, at two hours, the latter is considerably shorter. A hardy fisherman in Puerto de la Aldea takes groups of up to 20 people to the beach, but it’s not cheap, and rough seas often prevent the trip. Be aware that if conditions worsen, he will not be able to collect you, leaving you no alternative but to hike back.
8. Puerto de la Aldea
Many say that it is the travelling, not the arriving, that makes the west coast noteworthy, but Puerto de la Aldea is a lovely place to recharge your batteries before continuing along the relentlessly winding roads. For most of the year it’s eerily quiet, but you might find a bit of life in the small fishing harbour or one of the excellent seafood restaurants. The small pine wood also warrants a look, as do the pre-Hispanic sites known as Los Caserones. The town becomes more animated on 11 September each year during the Fiesta del Charco, when locals go to the lagoon (charco) at the far end of the beach and try to catch fish with their bare hands.
Peaceful Puerto de la Aldea
9. Pinar de Tamadaba
The island’s largest pine forest (see Pinar de Tamadaba) offers some welcome respite from the bustling towns and busy roads. You could stop at the picnic area for lunch, or perhaps make the 30-minute walk from the Casa Forestal to the area’s highest point, at 1,440 m (4,720 ft) .
10. Roque Nublo
It’s easy to see why the Canarii revered the looming form of this 80-m (260-ft) monolithic volcanic rock (see Roque Nublo), especially when it’s seen up close.
EARLY CHRISTIANIZATION
The pre-Hispanic name for the island’s westernmost town is unknown, as it had been renamed after an Italian saint long before the conquerors arrived. Mallorcan monks landed on the beach in 1342, and erected a chapel next to the ocean. Although the area was densely populated when it took on the title San Nicolás de Tolentino, the original name was lost. The hermitage was demolished in the 16th century.
ABOVE THE CLOUDS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN GRAN CANARIA
Morning
This is a full-day drive, so you will need to set out early and take some warm layers. Start off by taking in Teror’s important church and museum, before heading for nearby Valleseco. The town itself doesn’t really warrant a stop, but the lush ravines certainly do. From here, follow the road to Artenara, stopping en route to admire the astounding Caldera de Los Pinos de Gáldar.
In Artenara, follow the short walk to see the Ermita de la Virgen de la Cuevita. Follow the road southeast to Cruz de Tejeda, where you can enjoy lunch at Asador Grill de Yolanda.
Afternoon
It’s mountain roads all the way now, as you take the road south. If it’s a clear day, stop at Mirador Degollada de la Becerra to take in views of Mount Teide and Roque Bentayga before continuing to Pico de las Nieves, where you can park and walk to the peak. It’s about a kilometre each way, so allow at least an hour and a half in total for what promises to be the high point of the day. Backtrack to the GC-600 and continue your circuit, stopping to take in views of Roque Nublo, if it’s not hiding in its trademark cloud. Stay with the GC-60, as it snakes its way through amazing scenery, all the way to pretty Tejeda to end the day with coffee and an almond cake.
The Best of the Rest
1. Mercadillo, Vega de San Mateo
C/Antonio Perera Rivero • Open 8am–1pm & 3–8pm Fri, 8am–8pm Sat, 8am–2:30pm Sun
Of the numerous mercadillos (farmers’ markets) held around the island, Vega de San Mateo’s offers the very best selection of goods.
2. Playa del Puerto
When the tide’s out, you can walk to this golden beach from the port at La Aldea de San Nicolás, skirting rock pools. When it’s in, follow the path through the mountains instead.
3. Ayacata
Villages don’t come any prettier than this one, especially in February, when the trees are ablaze with pale pink almond blossom. Stop for a coffee and some delicious marzipan.
4. Andén Verde
“Green Platform” is the rather inapt name given to this bewitching stretch of stark cliffs, which tower above the ocean. Don’t miss views from the Mirador del Balcón.
5. Valleseco
Offering wonderfully unspoilt natural beauty, Valleseco is known for its quality wooden handicrafts and unparalleled hiking trails.
The beautiful landscape around Valleseco
6. Fontanales
The first sight to greet you on arrival in this friendly pueblo is the church. For refreshment, drop in at Restaurante Grill Sibora, a rustic restaurant favoured by Moya locals and by city-dwellers looking for an escape.
7. Acusa
The Acusa flatlands make a rather odd sight amid the craggy central mountains, and provide a superlative place to take a photograph of the famous Roque Nublo.
8. Cactualdea
Carretera del Hoyo • 928 89 12 28 • Open 10am–5pm daily • Adm
The arid west of the island is not known for its plant life, but the climate is ideal for growing cactuses. More than 1,200 species thrive in this lovely private garden.
9. Old Quarter, La Aldea de San Nicolás
Few travellers venture to Gran Canaria’s forgotten town (see Windmills, La Aldea de San Nicolás); fewer still find its atmospheric old quarter, east of the church.
10. Caldera de los Marteles
GC-130
It’s not unusual to see livestock grazing at the bottom of this pine-fringed volcanic crater. Enjoy fine views of Valsequillo and the capital.
Places to Eat
1. Asador Grill de Yolanda, Cruz de Tejeda
C/Cruz de Tejeda • 928 66 62 76 • €€
Come here for the friendliest service on the island and huge servings of meat. Try the sweet blood-sausage croquettes, a house speciality and tastier than they perhaps sound.
2. Restaurante La Oliva, Playa de Tasarte
928 89 43 58 • L only • Closed Mon • €
One of the few restaurants on the west coast, La Oliva overlooks the sea and serves superb, fresh seafood.
3. Restaurante Arcos de La Laguna, Valleseco
Carretera 21 • 928 61 82 79 • €€
The rolling green hills of the “Dry Valley” provide an unforgettable backdrop for a meal that is big on seasonal produce. The eatery also regularly offers special menus.
4. El Encuentro, Teror
Plaza Del Pino • 928 61 37 86 • Closed Mon • €€
A traditional restaurant in an elegant colonial building, El Encuentro is set on a picturesque plaza opposite Teror’s basilica. Prices are slightly higher than in the average Canarian restaurant, but the portions are big, and the setting is delightful.
5. Restaurante La Cilla, Artenara
Camino La Silla 3 • 609 16 39 44
An 80-m (260-ft) tunnel entrance leads to a sun terrace with the best views of any restaurant on the island.
6. Grill El Pesebre, Teror
C/El Mesón 35 • 928 61 37 46 • Closed Mon • €€
This is a vibrant venue for traditional dishes, including enormous platefuls of grilled pork, beef and chicken. Sit inside or on the garden terrace.
7. Restaurante Marmitia, Cruz de Tejeda
Cruz de Tejeda • 928 01 25 00 • €€€
Enjoy elegant dining and magnificent views of the pine forest at this hotel restaurant. The menu features local specialities with a creative twist.
Interior of Restaurante Marmitia
8. Casa Del Caminero, Tejeda
Avda Los Almendros 5 • 609 16 69 61 • Closed Mon & Tue • €€
After a great meal, you could leave with one of the owner’s paintings at this quirky restaurant.
9. Dejaté Llevar, Tejeda
C/Doctor Domingo Hernandez Guerra 25, Tejeda • 928 66 62 81 • Closed Mon & Tue • €
A stylish restaurant, Dejaté Llevar serves delicious international dishes, including vegetarian options.
10. El Prado, Valleseco
C/Alcalde Vicente Arencibia 7 • 928 61 83 07 • Closed Mon & Tue • €
Try Canarian stews at El Prado, where only the freshest ingredients are used.