LAS PALMAS
Las Palmas can date its beginnings from the day Juan Rejón landed at La Isleta and earmarked the area for his settlement. The arrival of Christopher Columbus, the increase in maritime traffic, and, finally, the construction of the port, guaranteed success as a trading hub. Today Las Palmas is the Canary Islands’ biggest city, with a vibrant ethnic mix, reflecting its position as a crossroads between Africa, Europe and Latin America. A paradise for shopaholics, Las Palmas also has leafy suburbs and quiet cobbled streets, all crowned by Playa de Las Canteras, one of the world’s top city beaches.
1. Catedral de Santa Ana
Las Palmas’ enormous Santa Ana cathedral and adjoining sacred art museum contain some important paintings and sculptures dating back to the 16th century, including two woodcarvings by renowned 18th- to 19th-century local sculptor José Luján Pérez.
2. Casas Consistoriales
Plaza de Santa Ana • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun
Taking centre stage in Plaza de Santa Ana and guarded by its faithful bronze hounds is the magnificent 19th-century Neo-Classical Casas Consistoriales. Built on the site of the original 16th-century Town Hall, which burned down in 1842, the edifice houses some 90 works of art by Canarian artists, including César Manrique. Perhaps the highlight is one of Álvarez Sala’s famous Emigrantes paintings, which hangs above the main staircase.
3. Playa de Las Canteras
Few cities can boast a beach as good as Playa de Las Canteras: 3 km (2 miles) of fine sand, sandwiched between a wide promenade and the bracing Atlantic Ocean. Surfers tend to congregate at the western end, an area known as La Cicer. The sand here is black, but as you move east it becomes ever more golden, and the sea, protected by the broad reef, takes on the appearance of a lake. Locals sometimes head for el ascensor (“the lift”), a part of the reef where the swell catapults swimmers back up onto the rocks – the really sure way to spot it is to look for the throng of whooping youngsters in front of Playa Chica.
Beachgoers gather on Playa de Las Canteras to enjoy the sun
4. Museo Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología
Parque Santa Catalina • 828 01 18 28 • Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.museoelder.org
While kids enjoy the many interactive exhibits, parents might prefer to find out how beer is made, what they would weigh on Mars, or if their hearing and heartbeat are normal. This is a great place to spend a few hours, especially if you’re caught in the rain in Las Palmas.
Exhibits at Museo Elder de la Ciencia
5. Museo Néstor
Pueblo Canario • 928 24 51 35 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am–2:30pm Sun and public hols • Adm
Las Palmas-born artist Néstor Martín Fernández de la Torre is (1887–1938) best known as a Modernist painter, but you can also see evidence of Pre-Raphaelitism and Symbolism in his colourful works. Construction of the Neo-Canarian building (see Museo Néstor, Las Palmas) housing the gallery was a joint project by the artist and his architect brother Miguel. As well as Néstor’s famous “poems”, huge paintings comprising eight panels each, there are some vivid sketches based on theatre productions. Towards the end of his life, Néstor favoured pictures depicting hidden corners of Gran Canaria, in a style he called “Typism”.
6. Museo Canario
This museum (see Museo Canario, Las Palmas) boasts the largest collection of Canarii artifacts to be found anywhere and provides a fascinating insight into their culture. This is a good preparation for those who may be visiting Canarii sites around the island.
7. Casa de Colón
The main focus of this first-rate museum (see Casa De Colón, Las Palmas) is Christopher Columbus’s travels across the Atlantic and their effect on the Canary Islands. Pre-Columbian cultures and historic Las Palmas are rewarding subsidiary themes. It’s all displayed in a beautiful restored Canarian house.
8. Vegueta Architecture
A stroll around the capital’s oldest district is a must for its quiet cobbled streets and varied architecture. Unfortunately, pirate attacks in the 16th century destroyed much of the original hamlet set up after the Conquest, but there is still plenty to see. Balconies prevail, be they the wooden-box-like designs typical of Canarian architecture or the Modernist ornate wroughtiron versions.
Façade of a colonial house in Vegueta, Las Palmas
9. Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
Avda Príncipe de Asturias s/n • 928 49 17 70 • Guided tours are available for groups • Adm • www.auditorioteatrolaspalmasgc.es
One of the city’s landmark buildings, this fine modern auditorium, perched on the jetty at the western end of Playa de Las Canteras, hosts cultural events, including the opera season, the film festival and jazz concerts. If the productions here are not to your taste, you can always admire the stunning ocean view.
The modern Auditorio Alfredo Kraus
10. Triana
Not long after the Conquest, the original Vegueta settlement became too small for the island’s increasing population and spread across the Guiniguada ravine. By the 19th century, the neighbouring district of Triana was a bustling area, featuring some fine architecture and a large theatre. It was formerly the elite that shopped on the city’s premiere street, Calle Mayor de Triana, but these days, affordable chain stores complement the exclusive boutiques. Do venture away from the main street, for it is in the side streets that you will find Triana’s real treasures – such as one-off handicraft shops and snug tapas bars. There’s more to Triana than shopping, though: admire the exquisite architecture of the Gabinete Literario, the Teatro Pérez Galdós, and also the Ermita de San Telmo.
FREE TRADE
Ever since Puerto de La Luz was built, it has been a free port. Low taxes, lenient customs laws and a strategic location combine to make it one of the world’s busiest, handling nearly 7 million tonnes of goods a year. The bustling docks give the city its cosmopolitan feel, as Russian and Korean sailors rub shoulders with European cruise passengers.
LAS PALMAS PAST AND PRESENT
Morning
Any walk around the capital should begin where it did, in the Vegueta barrio. Start at the Palacio de Justicia, on Avda Marítima, and head into the old town via a narrow alley to the right of the courts; just a 17th-century tower remains of the original building. Pass the impressive stone archway of the Jesuit lglesia de San Francisco de Borja as you make your way to the must-see Museo Canario.
From the museum, head to the Plaza and Ermita de Espíritu Santo, then double back again to the Cathedral de Santa Ana and the Casas Consistoriales in Plaza de Santa Ana. Head across the main road to the Triana district, en route admiring the Italianate Neo-Classical Teatro Pérez Galdós, and have lunch at Allende Triana.
Afternoon
After lunch, make for C/Mayor de Triana for souvenirs and clothes. Head north to Parque San Telmo, where there’s a bus station. Here you can jump on a guagua to cross the city, unless you relish the idea of a 45-minute stroll along the promenade. Alight at Parque de Santa Catalina, heading first to the Centro de Arte La Regenta, and then to the Museo Elder de la Ciencia y la Tecnología, before ending the day at Playa de Las Canteras. Get an artisan ice cream from Peña la Vieja on the Paseo de Las Canteras.
The Best of the Rest
1. Parque and Ermita de San Telmo
A leafy respite in Triana’s shopping centre. The kiosk is Art Nouveau and the altar in the 18th-century Ermita de San Telmo is considered one of the prettiest on the island.
2. Parque Doramas
C/Emilio Ley
The city’s prettiest park is named after the Canarii leader (see Doramas) who refused to bow to the Spanish. It’s well equipped for children and has a small open-air café.
Fountains at Parque Doramas
3. Casa Museo Pérez Galdós
C/Cano 2 • 928 36 69 76 • Open 10am–2pm & 4–8pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat–Sun (guided tours only, every hour) • www.casamuseoperezgaldos.com
Novelist Benito Pérez Galdós, considered “the Spanish Charles Dickens”, is the island’s most famous former inhabitant. His childhood home in Triana is now a museum.
4. Castillo de la Luz
C/Juan Rejón s/n
The 16th-century fort overlooks a popular children’s playground. Set in a small park equipped with a cheap café serving tasty food, it’s also a fine place to while away an afternoon.
5. Centro de Arte La Regenta
C/León y Castillo 427 • 928 11 74 68 • Open 11am–2pm & 5–8pm Tue–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat • Closed Sun & Mon
Set in a former tobacco warehouse, La Regenta is a treasure trove of contemporary art, and mounts numerous exhibitions every year.
6. CAAM
C/Los Balcones 11 • 928 31 18 00 • Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun • www.caam.net
Vegueta’s most modern space, the Neo-Classical Centro Atlántico de Arte Moderno hosts contemporary sculptures, paintings and video art.
7. Vistas from Escaleritas
You’ll get the best view of the city’s port, beaches, skyscrapers and palm trees from the Escaleritas barrio.
8. Muelle Deportivo
The sporting marina attracts sailors from across the globe. Many come to rest before heading to southern Africa or across the Atlantic.
9. Ciudad Jardín
As you enter “Garden City”, the unsightly skyscrapers of Las Palmas’ commercial districts give way to grand mansions, mostly built by British settlers in the 19th and early 20th centuries and now home to the city’s wealthiest families.
10. Pueblo Canario
C/Francisco González Díaz • Open 10am–midnight Tue–Sat, 10:30am–5pm Sun
Built in the mid-20th century, this miniature Canarian village is a good place to sample local cuisine, buy handicrafts or admire the work of Néstor de la Torre.
Places to Shop
1. Calle Mayor de Triana
Although Avda de Mesa y López is vying for the position of top shopping street, Triana still has the charm.
2. El Corte Inglés
If you can’t find what you’re looking for in this mammoth department store, it may well not exist. There are two branches on Avda de José Mesa y López and a third in the 7 Palmas shopping centre.
El Corte Inglés during Christmas
3. FEDAC
C/Domingo J Navarro 7
The best artisans from across the island sell their wares in this non-profit outlet in Triana.
4. Artesanía Santa Catalina
C/Ripoche 4
This is a good place to buy Canarian souvenirs, especially pottery. You will also find foodstuffs, aloe vera products and embroidered goods.
5. Tienda Artesania Canaria Las Palmitas
C/Herrería 7, Vegueta
The Tienda Artesania is the perfect place to pick up an interesting gift or souvenir, while at the same time supporting local artisans. The shop is crammed with handicrafts, from wooden jewellery to earthenware jugs.
6. Las Canteras Lifestyle
Paseo de Las Canteras 20
This handily-placed store is the perfect stop to prepare for a day spent at the beach and stocks stylish bags, hats, and towels.
7. El Puente
C/Obispo Codina 6
This charming shop stocks typical Canarian crafts such as tablecloths, pottery and traditional costumes.
8. La Casa de Los Quesos
C/Sagasta 32
A gourmet’s dream shop, this is the place to shop for the island’s best artisan cheeses, as well as its wines, mojos, honey, coffee and olive oil. There are more than 150 varieties of cheese on offer.
9. Alisios
C/Hermanos Domínguez Santana
A stylishly designed shopping centre, Alisios is located in expanding Tamaraceite province. With an open-air structure, this building takes advantage of Las Palmas’ mild climate. Visit its outlets and shop for popular brands at a discount or watch a movie in the cinema. The mall is also home to one of the island’s only Starbucks.
10. La Librería
C/Cano 24
Every aspect of Canarian culture, ranging from hiking and history to festivals and flora, is represented in the cabildo’s bookshop in Triana. Although most titles are in Spanish, a few have been translated into other European languages.
Nightspots
1. Fortuni
C/Martínez de Escobar 1
With its retro design but chic and contemporary styling, this venue in the heart of the capital has certainly made a name for itself. Expect live singers, top DJs and a lively party atmosphere.
2. Bravia
C/León y Castillo 389
Clubbers get the party started late at this commercial dance music venue, with patrons queueing up well beyond midnight for entry.
3. Te Lo Dije Perez
C/Obispo Codina 6
In trendy Vegueta, this traditional bar is the favourite haunt of musicians headlining at Teatro Pérez Galdós across the street and is a good place to start the night with a beer.
4. Sala Nasdaq
Plaza de la Musica
One of Gran Canaria’s more intimate venues, Sala Nasdaq allows you to see live bands at close quarters.
5. NYC Taxi Bar
C/Numancia 25
A small place with very loud music, this lively rock bar is decorated and run like a New York City taxi bar. Order cold beers by the bucket and party just like a New Yorker would.
6. La Azotea de Benito
CC Monopol, Plaza Hurtado de Mendoza
Catch the last rays of the sun at this chic bar, set on the roof of Centro Commercial (CC) Monopol, as you enjoy a Cocoa Negroni cocktail.
Visitors savour the view from La Azotea de Benito’s rooftop terrace
7. Pool Fiction
C/Secretario Artiles 22
Equipped with eight pool tables, a dartboard and a plasma TV, this sophisticated joint behind Parque Santa Catalina is the perfect place for a sporting night out.
8. Las Brujas
Barranco Seco
Outside the city on the way to Tafira, a huge rural house has been converted into an amazing nightspot. You can have a bite to eat in one of the dining rooms dotted about the house, or party in the DJ tent. In summer, revellers spill out into the garden.
9. Paper Club
C/Remedios 10–12
One of Las Palmas’ best concert venues, Paper Club attracts a young crowd of devoted revellers.
10. Malecón de la Habana
C/José Franchy Roca
This is one of the best places in the city to hear Latin music, salsa dance and watch live Cuban bands. The place hots up at around 3am.
Places to Eat
1. Rías Bajas
C/Simón Bolívar 3 • 928 27 13 16 • €€€
The capital’s premier restaurant specializes in seafood. If you’re daunted by the choice, try the paella or the arroz caldoso, a kind of rice stew with lots of seafood.
2. Qué Leche
C/Torres 22 • 607 91 78 13 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€
A tiny, cosy restaurant with a South American flavour, perfect for sharing inventive tapas, such as squid with pistachio and ginger.
3. De Cuchara, Las Palmas
C/Alfredo L Jones 37 • 928 26 55 09 • Closed Mon • €€
Though set near the Atlantic, this restaurant (see De Cuchara, Las Palmas) specializes in Mediterranean cusine. There is also a Canarian set menu, along with one to share.
4. Bom Gosto
C/Secretario Padilla 28 • 618 30 85 73 • Closed Mon • €€
For a taste of Portugal try Bom Gasto’s menu, which features the kind of dishes you’d expect to find in a restaurant in Porto, including the meaty, cheesy feast that is a francesinha.
5. La Lonja
C/Galileo 8 • 828 01 44 55 • Closed Tue • €€
A small, friendly, unassuming Canarian tasca (or bar) near the beach. It specializes in fresh fish and seafood, and is a good place to try arroz caldoso.
6. Deliciosa Marta
C/Pérez Galdós 33, Las Palmas • 676 37 70 32 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€
With exposed stone walls and a unique flavour, this is one of the hottest kitchens (see Deliciosa Marta) in town. Reservation is essential.
7. Allende Triana
C/Domingo J Navarro 16 • 928 38 09 48 • €
The best ingredients are used here to create quality dishes from around the world, which are then served in comfortably chic surroundings.
8. Fuji
C/Fernando Guanarteme 56 • 928 26 13 93 • Closed Mon • €€€
Gran Canaria and Spain’s first Japanese restaurant, Fuji offers authentic dishes and friendly service. Reserve at the weekend to indulge in delicious sushi and sashimi.
Sushi and sashimi at Fuji
9. Novilla Précoz
C/de Portugal 9 • 928 22 16 59 • €€€
This Uruguayan restaurant has been serving perfectly cooked steaks to local writers, singers and poets for decades, many of whom have scribbled their names on its walls.
10. Casa Montesdeoca
C/Montesdeoca 10 • 928 33 34 66 • Closed Sun & Aug • €€€
Succulent steaks and fresh fish are followed by some unique homemade desserts at this atmospheric, traditional Vegueta restaurant.
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50