NORTHERN GRAN CANARIA
The north is as far removed from the stereotype of the Canary Islands as is possible. The humid climate here blesses the ravines with a layer of lush green vegetation, while rough seas crash against the stony beaches. It’s not dream territory for sunbathers or swimmers, but hikers and surfers are certainly well catered for. The cuisine consists of warming meat dishes in the highlands and seafood platters on the coast. The region has an abundance of aboriginal remains, since Gáldar was the island’s capital before the Europeans invaded.
1. Casa-Museo Antonio Padrón, Gáldar
C/Capitán Quesada 3 • 928 45 40 35 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Jul–Sep: until 7pm) • www.antoniopadron.com
Born in Gáldar in 1920, Antonio Padrón was a painter, sculptor, ceramicist and composer. Largely known as an Expressionist painter, his work also demonstrates Fauvist tendencies. He portrayed everyday Canarian life, focusing on local myths and customs. Padrón’s most familiar works are considered a local treasure.
2. Puerto de las Nieves
This popular fishing village (see Puerto De Las Nieves) is full of character. Settle into the slow pace of life here, and enjoy a divine seafood grill overlooking the port.
Fishing boats in the harbour at Puerto de las Nieves
3. Cueva Pintada, Gáldar
C/Audencia 2, Gáldar • 928 89 57 46 (book in advance) • www.cuevapintada.com
When a farmer from Gáldar discovered a Canarii cave under his land in the 19th century, he could not have realized the magnitude of his find. Archeologists moved in to study the simple paintings adorning its walls – small triangles and squares etched in red and brown. These were soon regarded as the most important set of Canarii engravings in existence.
Archaeologists have continued to dig at the site and new finds are displayed all the time. Visitors can watch a fun video and learn about a Canarii princess named Arminda.
4. Old Quarter, Santa María de Guía
At first glance, Guía has little to offer other than a hotchpotch of modern buildings. Yet, hidden away in its centre, stands a grand Neo-Classical church and one of the island’s most charming town centres. The church, begun in 1607, has a clock donated by celebrated sculptor José Luján Pérez, Guía’s most famous son. His home, marked by a small plaque, is in a pretty road behind the church. These sleepy, colourful streets ooze character, and the inhabitants are perhaps the friendliest on the island.
Statue of La Virgin Carmen in Santa María de Guía
5. Cenobio de Valerón
GC-291 km 21 • Open Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm (free for children under 10) • www.cenobiodevaleron.com
It’s not uncommon to see grain stores on Canarii sites, but none comes close to the Cenobio de Valerón. Located in a cave, this early version of a pantry consists of over 300 hollows, whittled out of the rock face. Although access to it is easy today, the Cenobio was built on an inaccessible crag, to keep food supplies out of the way of thieves. The early theory that the site was a convent, where young girls lived a life of celibacy away from society, has long since been disproved.
Canarii site Cenobio de Valerón
6. Los Tilos de Moya
Access via GC-70 and GC-703
Gran Canaria’s only natural laurel forest may not be as impressive as those found on other Macronesian islands, but the shady trees are an ideal spot for a hike or picnic. The Canaries’ biggest expanse of laurel forest is in La Gomera’s national park. Los Tilos de Moya represents about 1 per cent of the once-magnificent Doramas forest. Home to many endangered bird and plant species, it has only a sprinkling of human inhabitants.
7. Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, Arucas
Párroco Cardenes 2 • 928 60 56 22 • Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 4:30–7pm Mon–Sat, 8:30am–1pm & 4:30–7:30pm Sun
Built on the site of an old hermitage, this mammoth Neo-Gothic structure, begun in 1909, took over 60 years to build, and is perhaps the most remarkable church in Gran Canaria. The exquisite stained-glass windows were produced in the 1920s by French designers Frères Mauméjean, and are considered some of the very best on the island.
8. Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, Moya
Padre Juanito 9 • 928 62 00 07 • Open 6–8pm Mon–Sat, 11am–noon & 6–8pm Sun
Clinging precariously to the side of the Moya ravine, this church must have been built by some very brave workmen. Completed in 1957, it is a pleasing blend of towers and roofs of varying heights. The best views are from the GC-700 road from Guía.
Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria
9. Valle de Agaete
GC-231 from Agaete town centre
So far, even the finest engineers have failed to link the Agaete Valley with the centre of the island, as the steep Tamadaba precipice forbids any possibility of construction. After snaking along the valley, the road fizzles out just after Los Berrazales. Fruit orchards and coffee planta-tions fill the valley floor, while the Tamadaba pine forest provides a formidable backdrop. There is a magnificent hike on a well-marked path all the way to Artenara, but the walk is more manageable if you start at the other end.
Panorama of the Valle de Agaete
10. Rum Factory, Arehucas
Era de San Pedro 2 • 928 62 49 00 • Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri • Closed Sat & Sun
The oldest rum factory in the Canary Islands, operating since 1884, this is the official supplier of the Spanish Royal House. The rum at Arehucas is still distilled the traditional Cuban way, from pressed sugar cane. The factory at Arehucas is more about storage and bottling, with an impressive collection of 6,000 oak barrels, many of them carrying signatures of visiting celebrities. A brief tour of the factory concludes with a tasting session and a chance to buy at discount.
WATER CHANNELS
Rainfall is far higher in the north than in the south of the island, but, as the porous ground soaks it up, farmers have had to build irrigation channels, wells, springs and water mills. This impressive hydro-network supports the cultivation of crops in the region, particularly the banana plantations around Arucas. The area’s hydraulic heritage can be seen on a hike around Valleseco.
A CULINARY TREK IN NORTHERN GRAN CANARIA
Morning
If the best way to get to know a place is through its cuisine, then the north is where you’ll discover Gran Canaria. Start the day in Arucas, allowing half an hour to visit the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, before taking a guided tour and buying a bottle at the Arehucas rum factory. You’ll pass a few remote villages along the GC-300 before reaching Firgas. The unusual town centre has a functioning gofio mill, so sampling the most Canarian of all foods is a must. Head through the Barranco de Azuaje to Moya, where all cafés serve local suspiros (meringues) and bizcochos (crispy sponge cakes).
Afternoon
The road to Guía skirts the laurel forest of Los Tilos de Moya. Detour to Santa Maria de Guía; explore the pretty old town and buy the local cheese. Casa Arturo (C/Lomo Guillén) is the best place to buy queso de flor, usually considered the island’s tastiest cheese. Continue on to Gáldar, taking in the Casa-Museo Antonio Padrón and stopping to visit the Cueva Pintada before joining the GC-202 to Agaete. In the village, follow the signs to visit the burial site Maipés de Arriba and then continue through the Valle de Agaete to visit Bodega Los Berrazales, where they produce coffee in the most northerly plantation in the world. Sample their wine and coffee before backtracking to end the day with a swim at Puerto de Las Nieves.
The Best of the Rest
1. Jardín de la Marquesa, Arucas
GC-330, Las Hoyas 2 • 928 60 44 86 • Open 9am–1pm & 2–6pm Mon–Sat • Adm
These impressive botanical gardens, bordering an ornate 19th-century mansion, are home to well over 2,500 species of flora, both native and tropical, and some strutting peacocks.
Plants in the Jardín de la Marquesa
2. Natural Pools
As the north coast is dangerous for swimmers, town councils have created rock pools that are constantly replenished by the sea. The best are in Bañaderos, San Felipe and Roque Prieto.
3. Firgas Town Centre
Famous for its mineral water, Firgas is also known for its mill. Watch a demonstration and buy a bag of freshly ground gofio.
4. Casa-Museo Tomás Morales, Moya
Plaza de Tomás Morales • 928 62 02 17 • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sun
This museum honours Moya poet Tomás Morales, though for non-Spanish-speakers the interest lies more in seeing inside an upmarket 19th-century home.
5. Hidden Coves
The north coast is not noted for its beaches, but it has some quiet coves, if you know where to look. The prettiest are on the Gáldar coast, but Playa Sotavento north of Puerto de las Nieves also deserves a visit.
6. Gáldar Architecture
The Iglesia de Santiago de los Caballeros dominates the pretty plaza, but there are other buildings of interest, such as the eclectic Teatro Municipal, the 19th-century casino, and the town hall, which has a patio that is home to the island’s oldest dragon tree.
7. Túmulo de La Guancha
Gáldar to El Agujero road • 928 21 94 21 ext 4441 • No fixed opening hours; book in advance
This huge, circular construction is Gran Canaria’s largest burial site, with 42 tombs radiating from one central grave.
8. Huerto de las Flores, Agaete
C/Huertas • Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri
More than 100 species of tropical plant thrive in this small garden.
9. Sardina del Norte
The fine sandy beach here brings bathers from miles around on sunny weekends, so visit this fishing village midweek if you want to find space to put your towel down.
10. Bodega Los Berrazales, Valle de Agaete
628 95 25 88 • Visit by appointment only
This San Pedro estate of unique beauty is well worth the detour, especially to sample its delicious fare of wine, coffee and the tropical fruits of Agaete Valley.
Places to Eat
1. Marisquería Fragata, Sardina del Norte
Avda Antonio Rosas • 928 88 32 96 • Closed Sun D, Wed • €
This friendly place offers old favourites such as squid and octopus alongside more original choices including gooseneck barnacles.
2. Casa Brito, Visvique
Pasaje de Ter 17 • 928 62 23 23 • Closed Sun D, Mon, Tue • €€
Barbecued meats are served here in a cosy rustic setting (see Casa Brito). Leave space for dessert – the rice pudding (arroz con leche) and crêpes are divine.
3. Locanda El Roque, El Roque
El Roque 58 • 928 61 00 44 • €
Eat Italian cuisine on the end of a rock overlooking the sea. It is a culinary experience you will not easily forget.
4. El Belingo, Arucas
C/Leon y Castillo 3 • 828 12 69 27 • €
El Belingo serves generous portions of classic Canarian dishes, presented with a bit more flair than the average traditional restaurant. Occasional live music is a bonus.
Typical Canarian meal with wine
5. Restaurante Dedo de Dios, Puerto de las Nieves
Ctra General Muelle Viejo • 928 89 80 00 • Closed Tue • €
This huge seafood restaurant is packed with lunching families at weekends. The fish soup is highly recommended.
6. Las Brasas, Firgas
Avda de la Cruz 36 • 928 62 52 50 • €
The barbecued meats and roast chicken attract diners to this no-frills joint, where you can fill up on home cooking at low prices.
7. Las Nasas, Puerto de las Nieves
C/de Nuestra Senora de Las Nieves 7 • 928 55 40 01 • €
Inside is cool, with marine-inspired decor, but the terrace overlooking the harbour is the best place to enjoy a leisurely lunch of prawns in garlic, or octopus and sardines.
8. Cafeteria Huerto de Las Flores, Agaete
C/Huerta • 928 55 43 82 • Closed Sat & Sun • €
Set amid tropical plants in a delightful botanical garden, this is an enchanting spot in which to enjoy cake and locally grown coffee.
9. El Cápita, Puerto de las Nieves
C/Nuestra Señora de las Nieves 37 • 928 55 41 42 • Closed Mon–Thu D • €
Seafood restaurants abound here, but locals insist that this family-run place (see El Cápita) outclasses the competition.
10. Terrazza El Ancla, Sardina del Norte
Avda Antonio Rosas • 928 55 14 95 • Closed Mon • €
The menu may be small, but the views are panoramic at this little kiosk specializing in fresh fish.