SOUTHERN GRAN CANARIA
For centuries, the arid coast of the south was virtually uninhabited, until holidaymakers discovered its perfect climate and fine golden beaches and began arriving in their droves. Since the start of the 21st century the region has been shaking off its package-holiday image and has invested in more chic and upmarket developments, but it’s still the place for fun, sun and nightlife.
1. Fataga
Fataga manages to retain its charm despite the ever-growing number of visitors. The cluster of restaurants on the main road still offers good Canarian cuisine, and there is a bodega, which sells the only wine produced in the south. After visiting the small church, San José, wander around the labyrinth of cobbled passageways and look out over the ravine that shares the village’s name.
Church of San José in historic Fataga
2. Maspalomas
The extensive sand dunes and palm-fringed lagoon set this tourist resort (see Maspalomas) apart.
The incredible sand dunes of Maspalomas stretching towards the ocean
3. Arteara
Information centre: 928 77 15 50 (book for guided tour) • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri
Although the graves have long since been looted, this Canarii cemetery – the largest in Gran Canaria, located next to the tiny hamlet of Arteara – remains an important stop on a tour of the island’s sites of archeological interest. Information panels explain the burial mounds, and there’s also an information centre on the life and death of Gran Canaria’s earliest inhabitants. The site was once encircled by a low stone wall, remnants of which can still be seen dotted about today.
4. Sioux City Park
Barranco del Aguilar, San Agustín • 928 76 25 73 • Adm • www.siouxcitypark.es
There is plenty of interactive family fun and lots of yee-haws at this Wild West set, complete with cowboy action on horseback, a saloon, line dancing and even a staged bank robbery. Shows are held regularly throughout the day. In addition, you can hire horses, and there’s also a small zoo, where you can get up close to some of the animals. Free buses run from the main southern resorts, details of which can be found on the website.
Wild West theme park, Sioux City
5. San Bartolomé de Tirajana
Suffering from something of an identity crisis, San Bartolomé de Tirajana is more popularly known as Tunte. Perched on the side of the Tirajana ravine, it’s a dramatic setting for this very traditional town, which is the capital of the island’s biggest borough and includes Maspalomas and Playa del Inglés. Casa los Yanes’ small museum is worth a look in, and there’s a Sunday morning market in the pretty plaza.
6. Palmitos Park
Access via the GC-503 • 928 79 70 70 • Open 10am–6pm daily • Adm • www.palmitospark.es
Save money on a visit here by buying a combined ticket, which includes entry to nearby Aqualand. Originally a tropical-bird sanctuary, the park has widened its remit to include primates and reptiles, as well as mammals. The lush location heightens the impression of a tropical paradise. You will also enjoy the botanical gardens, featuring both endemic and exotic plants and lauded by naturalists.
7. Puerto de Mogán
Although on the endangered list, Puerto de Mogán has so far managed to avoid the building frenzy that plagues other areas of the south coast. The authorities here have opted to lodge tourists in a low-rise complex that houses fewer visitors, which is certainly easier on the eye than the towering 1960s hotels favoured elsewhere. The quiet harbour is a fabulous place to eat seafood and while away an afternoon on a boat trip. Try to arrive early, before the tourist buses break the silence and the small beach fills up.
View across Puerto de Mogán
8. Las Presas
Soria, Chira & Presa de las Niñas La Sorrueda
Due to limited rainfall and highly porous soil, water conservation is a crucial part of Canarian life. The southern presas (dams) are important meeting-places for the islanders. The presas attract hikers, picnickers, fishermen and even swimmers, though bathing is not strictly allowed. The south’s biggest presa is Soria, while the most remote is Chira, and the title of most beautiful is a toss-up between the pine-flanked Presa de las Niñas and the palm-lined oasis at La Sorrueda.
La Sorrueda, one of the island’s presas
9. Santa Lucía de Tirajana
La Fortaleza Museum: GC651, La Sorrueda-Hoya del Rábano • 928 79 85 80 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.lafortaleza.es
The setting-off point for the walk to La Fortaleza de Ansite, one of the island’s most notable Canarii sites, the sleepy village of Santa Lucía de Tirajana is characterized by whitewashed houses, red-tiled roofs and steep cobbled streets. While here, visit the shops to stock up on their specialities of olives, and a concoction of rum and herbs, known as Mejunje de Ventura, which is to be sipped rather than guzzled. Make sure you visit the excellent Centro de Interpretación de La Fortaleza Museum, with its re-creation of an aboriginal dwelling, and the cave.
10. Villages in Mogán
The rural lifestyle found in other parts of the island is hard to spot in the south, where the farmers have long since moved to the coast, but it’s still possible to sample traditional life near Mogán. Rustic architecture prevails here, particularly in the Moorish village of Veneguera and in the many hamlets south of Mogán itself. In Molino de Viento, retired farmers congregate under the restored windmill to reminisce.
A windmill in Mogán
QUALITY VERSUS QUANTITY
More and more tourists visit the island each year, but the amount of money going to local entrepreneurs is slight, thanks to the rise of the all-inclusive holiday. The cabildo (council) is now promoting quality tourism. Upmarket resorts such as Maspalomas, Meloneras and Puerto de Mogán are slowly changing the island’s image, while rural tourism is also taking off.
A TOUR OF THE SOUTH
Morning
Leave your car, if you have one, in Arguineguín, and catch the bus to Puerto de Mogán. Arrive early, and enjoy the peace and quiet of the island’s most charming resort, before jumping on a boat back to Arguineguín, a two-hour trip. On the way you will pass steep cliffs and secluded beaches before reaching the rather over-built resort of Puerto Rico, where you have to change boats. Arguineguín is a lovely fishing town, so far immune to the mass tourism closing in on all sides. The ultra-calm waters are ideal for children, and plenty of restaurants offer kids’ menus. Try Los Pescaítos, at the western end of the promenade – best for kids – or Apolo XI, on the main road, which has more local character.
Afternoon
After lunch, whizz along the motorway to Maspalomas. Not far from the lighthouse, there is a “camel station”; a short ride on a dromedary is the perfect way to enjoy the dunes. Laze on the magnificent beach, then hit the road again, this time heading north.
Mundo Aborigen offers an insight into Canarian history – helpful before visiting Arteara. You’ll need half an hour to scramble over the rocks at this Canarii cemetery. Continue north to Fataga, where frazzled parents may appreciate the bodega hidden away among the pretty alleyways.
Nightspots
1. Yumbo Centrum, Playa del Inglés
Avda de Estados Unidos 54
The Yumbo Centre – by day a shopping mall, by night a mass of drag queens and leather-clad party-goers – is the heart of the island’s gay life. Some bars have firm dress codes or are strictly men only. There are more than 200 shops and bars.
2. Ricky’s Cabaret Bar, Playa del Inglés
Yumbo Centrum, Avda de Estados Unidos 54
Open since 2000, Ricky’s is the Grand Old Dame of the Yumbo. Nightly drag shows pack the audiences in.
3. Sparkles Show, Playa del Inglés
Yumbo Centrum, Avda de Estados Unidos 54
The stars here regularly poke fun at audience members, so leave your sensitivities at home when you head to this flamboyant comedy show.
4. Pacha, Playa del Inglés
Avda Sargentos Provisionales 10
The big boys of the club world rock the southern coastline with this huge multi-lounge disco.
5. Atelier Lounge Cocktail, Playa del Inglés
Avda de Estados Unidos 54
Smooth sophistication and artistic cocktails are the order of the day on the top floor of the Bohemia Suites & Spa Hotel, with grandstand views over the Maspalomas sand dunes.
5. 19th Hole, Meloneras
Paseo Blvd El Faro
A sports bar by day, and a live music venue by night, featuring rock, Blues and soul performers. The drinks are not cheap but the music is first-class.
Views from Atelier Lounge Cocktail
7. Piccadilly Music Club, Puerto Rico
CC Puerto Rico
Piccadilly’s pub-style quizzes, games and music have been packing in the crowds for three decades. Cheap drinks and a fun atmosphere.
8. Hideaway Lounge, Puerto Rico
Europa Shopping Centre
With comfy seating and inexpensive drinks, this is a good bar for watching football and enjoying the banter with locals and holidaymakers.
9. Aqua Ocean Club, Meloneras
Centro Comercial, Playa Meloneras
This large nightclub in front of the Hotel H10 Playa Meloneras Palace attracts a huge crowd.
10. Eiffel Bar, Playa del Inglés
Yumbo Centrum, Avda de Estados Unidos 54
A chic bar, with cocktails ranging from non-alcoholic to very strong, served with peanuts and marshmallows.
Places to Eat
1. El Portalón, Playa del Inglés
Hotel Sol Barbacán, Avda Tirajana 27 • 928 77 20 30 • €€€
Dine à la carte or from the buffet at this chic hotel-restaurant offering a range of Basque country dishes.
2. La Palmera Sur, Maspalomas
Avda Estados Unidos 15, Playa del Inglés • 659 59 80 03 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€
The adventurous dining at La Palmera Sur makes it well worth a visit. Off-the-wall dishes can include white chocolate soup and pina colada cannelloni.
3. Q Tal, Puerto de Mogán
Between main harbour and fishing harbour • 928 56 55 34 • Closed Sun • € (L), €€€ (D)
A funky, chilled-out joint with just a few choices cooked to order. Book ahead if you want to sample the evening menu – a seven-course feast of creative gourmet cuisine.
4. Bamira, Playa del Águila
C/Los Pinos 11 • 928 76 76 66 • Closed Wed • €€€
Try cutting-edge cuisine at the restaurant responsible for introducing fusion food to the Canaries. Try the spinach-and-garlic mousse or the rather unusual beetroot sorbet.
5. Calma Chicha
Avda de Tirajana 4, Playa del Inglés • 928 76 07 14 • Closed Sun D • €€
Enjoy savoury desserts such as pepper ice-cream in an intimate setting at this restaurant (see Calma Chicha).
6. La Casa Vieja, Maspalomas
Ctra A Fataga 139 • 928 76 90 10 • €€
This rustic eatery offers an authentic taste of Gran Canaria, with local food, local musicians and traditional decor.
Interior, Los Guayres, Playa del Águila
7. Los Guayres, Puerto de Mogán
Hotel Cordial Mogán Playa, Avda de Canarias s/n • 928 72 41 00 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€
Canarian classics meet gourmet cuisine at this excellent restaurant. There’s even a separate dessert room to satisfy your sweet tooth.
8. 360º Bohemia
Avda Estados Unidos 28, Playa del Inglés • 928 56 34 00 • €€
Pair the classy cuisine offered here (see 360º Bohemia) with a vintage from one of the island’s best-stocked wine cellars.
9. Samsara, Maspalomas
Avda del Oasis 30, Maspalomas • 928 14 27 36 • Closed Mon • €
For chilled-out dining, this restaurant (see Samsara) offers lovely comfortable terrace sofas and an art gallery.
10. La Aquarela, Patalavaca
Apartamentos Aguamarina • 928 73 58 91 • Closed Mon • €€
This elegant poolside restaurant was one of the first on the island to offer nouvelle cuisine. The duck and sautéed prawns are recommended.