Snorkeling paradise Hanauma bay, Oahu
Oahu has it all: wide, sandy beaches; year-round surf; breathtaking ridge hikes; and a vibrant urban city in Honolulu. Home to Pearl Harbor and the only royal palace in the United States, Honolulu is imbued with history. Always deeply mindful of its past, it is also racing into the future. The revitalization of old neighborhoods has sprouted trendy boutiques and attention-grabbing cuisine, and Waikiki, the world-famous vacation playground, continues to refine itself with stylish and luxurious new hotels, and the shops to match. Sure, Oahu may be Hawaii’s most crowded island, but its rich human tapestry—locals of myriad ethnic mixes, wealthy Japanese expats, Mainland sunseekers, surfers from around the globe—makes it unlike any other place in the world.
Arriving
Even though more and more transpacific flights are going directly to the neighbor islands these days, chances are still good that you’ll touch down on Oahu first and Honolulu will be your gateway to the Hawaiian Islands. Honolulu International Airport sits on the South Shore of Oahu, west of downtown Honolulu and Waikiki near Pearl Harbor. Many major American and international carriers fly to Honolulu from the Mainland; for a list of airlines, see chapter 10, “Planning Your Trip to Hawaii.”
Landing at Honolulu International Airport
You can walk or take the free airport shuttle from your arrival gate to the main terminal and baggage claim on the ground level. Unless you’re connecting to an inter-island flight immediately, you’ll exit to the palm-lined street where uniformed attendants can either flag down a taxi or direct you to TheBus (www.thebus.org; see “By Bus,” below). For Waikiki shuttles and rental-car vans, cross the street to the median and wait at the designated stop.
Passengers connecting to neighbor-island flights take the free shuttle or walk to the large inter-island terminal serving Hawaiian Airlines or to the more distant commuter terminal, which serves smaller carriers such as Island Air and Mokulele Airlines. (For details on inter-island flights, see “Getting Around Hawaii” on p. 601.)
By Rental Car All major car-rental companies have vehicles available at the airport. Rental-agency vans will pick you up curbside at the center island outside baggage claim and take you to their off-site lots. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the airport to downtown Honolulu.
By Taxi Taxis are abundant at the airport, and an attendant will be happy to flag one down for you. The fare is about $25 from Honolulu International to downtown Honolulu and around $35 to $40 to Waikiki. If you need to call a taxi, see “Getting Around,” later in this chapter, for a list of cab companies.
By Airport Shuttle SpeediShuttle (www.speedishuttle.com; 
877/242-5777) offers transportation in air-conditioned vans from the airport to Waikiki hotels; a trip from the airport to Waikiki is $15 per person. You’ll find the shuttle at street level outside baggage claim on the median. You can board with two pieces of luggage and a carry-on at no extra charge. Tips are welcome. For advance purchase of group tickets, call the number above or book online.
By Bus TheBus (www.thebus.org; 808/848-5555) is a good option if you aren’t carrying a lot of luggage. TheBus nos. 19 and 20 (Waikiki Beach and hotels) run from the airport to downtown Honolulu and Waikiki. The first bus from Waikiki to the airport leaves at 4:46am Monday through Friday and 5:27am Saturday and Sunday; the last bus departs the airport for Waikiki at 1:22am Monday through Friday, 1:24am Saturday and Sunday; buses arrive approximately every 15 minutes. There are two bus stops on the main terminal’s upper level; a third is on the second level of the inter-island terminal. Note: You can board TheBus with a carry-on or small suitcase, as long as it fits under the seat and doesn’t disrupt other passengers; otherwise, you’ll have to take a shuttle or taxi. The travel time to Waikiki is approximately 1 hour. The one-way fare is $2.50 and $1.25 for children 6 to 17; exact change only. For more on TheBus, see “Getting Around,” later in this chapter.
Visitor Information
The Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (HVCB), 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, HI 96815 (www.gohawaii.com or www.hvcb.org; 800/GO-HAWAII), supplies free brochures, maps, and accommodations guides.
A number of free publications, such as This Week Oahu, are packed with money-saving coupons and good regional maps; look for them on racks at the airport and around town. Another tip: Snag one of the Japanese magazines scattered around Waikiki. Even if you can’t read Japanese, you’ll find out about the latest, trendiest, or best restaurants and shops around the island.
Honolulu
Hawaii’s largest city looks like any other big metropolitan center with tall buildings. In fact, some cynics refer to it as “Los Angeles West.” But within Honolulu’s boundaries, you’ll find rainforests, deep canyons, valleys, waterfalls, a nearly mile-high mountain range, coral reefs, and gold-sand beaches. The city proper—where most of Honolulu’s residents live—is approximately 12 miles wide and 26 miles long, running east-west roughly between Diamond Head and Pearl Harbor. Within the city are seven hills laced by seven streams that run to Mamala Bay.
A plethora of neighborhoods surrounds the central area. These areas are generally quieter and more residential than Waikiki, but they’re still within minutes of beaches, shopping, and all the activities Oahu has to offer.
Waikiki 
Waikiki is changing almost daily. There’s now a Ritz Carlton, and the nearly-new International Marketplace anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue. It’s a sign of Waikiki’s transformation: faded Polynesian kitsch giving way to luxury retailers and residences. Still, Waikiki tenaciously hangs on to its character: Explore just 1 block mauka of Kalakaua Ave., and you’ll find hip boutique hotels, hidden hole-in-the-wall eateries, and walk-up apartments and nondescript condos where locals still live.
Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach
When King Kalakaua played in Waikiki, it was “a hamlet of plain cottages . . . its excitements caused by the activity of insect tribes and the occasional fall of a coconut.” The Merrie Monarch, who gave his name to Waikiki’s main street, would love the scene today. Some 5 million tourists visit Oahu every year, and 9 out of 10 of them stay in Waikiki. This urban beach is where all the action is; it’s backed by 175 high-rise hotels with more than 33,000 guest rooms and hundreds of bars and restaurants, all in a 1½-square-mile beach zone. Waikiki means honeymooners and sun seekers, bikinis and bare buns, an around-the-clock beach party every day of the year. Staying in Waikiki puts you in the heart of it all, but be aware that this on-the-go place has traffic noise 24 hours a day—and it’s almost always crowded.
Finding Your Way Around, Oahu-Style |
Mainlanders sometimes find the directions given by locals a bit confusing. Seldom will you hear the terms east, west, north, and south; instead, islanders refer to directions as either makai (ma-kae), meaning toward the sea, or mauka (mow-kah), toward the mountains. In Honolulu, people use Diamond Head as a direction meaning to the east (in the direction of the world-famous crater called Diamond Head), and Ewa as a direction meaning to the west (toward the town called Ewa, on the other side of Pearl Harbor).
So if you ask a local for directions, this is what you’re likely to hear: “Drive 2 blocks makai (toward the sea), and then turn Diamond Head (east) at the stoplight. Go 1 block, and turn mauka (toward the mountains). It’s on the 'Ewa (western) side of the street.”
Ala Moana A great beach as well as Hawaii’s largest shopping mall, Ala Moana is the retail and transportation heart of Honolulu, a place where you can both shop and suntan in one afternoon. All bus routes lead to the open-air Ala Moana Center, across the street from Ala Moana Beach Park . The shopping center is one of Hawaii’s most visited destinations for its collection of luxury brands (such as Louis Vuitton and Chanel) and Hawaii-based stores (from Tori Richard to Town & Country Surf).
Kakaako 
This is Honolulu’s most rapidly developing neighborhood—a primarily industrial area giving way to new condo buildings, from workforce housing to the island’s most expensive penthouses. Sprouting up among the new construction are lively hubs of boutiques and restaurants, including Ward Village and Salt.
Downtown and Chinatown Here you’ll find historic Honolulu, including Iolani Palace, the official residence of Hawaii’s kings and queens; its business center housed in high rises; and the Capitol District, all jammed in about 1 square mile. On the waterfront stands the iconic 1926 Aloha Tower.
On the edge of downtown is the Chinatown Historic District, one of the oldest Chinatowns in America and still one of Honolulu’s liveliest neighborhoods, a nonstop pageant of people, sights, sounds, smells, and tastes, though not all Chinese. Southeast Asians, including many Vietnamese, share the old storefronts, as do Honolulu’s oldest bar (the divey Smith’s Union Bar) and some of the city’s hippest clubs and chicest boutiques. Go in the morning, when everyone shops for fresh goods such as mangoes (when in season), live fish (sometimes of the same varieties you saw while snorkeling), fresh tofu, and hogs’ heads.
Manoa Valley This verdant valley above Waikiki, blessed by frequent rain showers, was the site of the first sugar and coffee plantations in Hawaii. It still has vintage kamaaina (native-born) homes, one of Hawaii’s premier botanical gardens (Lyon Arboretum ), the ever-gushing Mānoa Falls, and the 320-acre University of Hawaii campus, where 50,000 students hit the books when they’re not on the beach.
To the East: Kahala Except for the estates of millionaires and the luxurious Kahala Hotel & Resort 
, there’s little out this way that’s of interest to visitors.
East Oahu
Beyond Kahala lies East Honolulu and suburban bedroom communities such as Aina Haina, Niu Valley, and Hawaii Kai, among others, all linked by the Kalanianaole Highway and loaded with homes, condos, fast-food joints, and strip malls. It looks like Southern California on a good day. You’ll drive through here if you take the longer, scenic route to Kailua. Some reasons to stop along the way: to snorkel at Hanauma Bay or watch daredevil body surfers and boogie boarders at Sandy Beach ; or to just enjoy the natural splendor of the lovely coastline, which might include a hike to Makapuu Lighthouse .
The Windward Coast
The windward side is on the opposite side of the island from Waikiki. On this coast, trade winds blow cooling breezes over gorgeous beaches; rain squalls spawn lush, tropical vegetation; and the fluted Koolau mountain range preens in the background. B&Bs, ranging from oceanfront estates to tiny cottages on quiet residential streets, are everywhere. Vacations here are spent enjoying ocean activities and exploring the surrounding areas. Waikiki is a 20-minute drive away.
Kailua The biggest little beach town in Hawaii, Kailua sits on a beautiful bay with two of Hawaii’s best beaches. In the past few years, the town has seen some redevelopment, with a new Target, Whole Foods, condos, and newer, bigger digs for old favorite shops and restaurants. But in between, there are still funky low-rise clusters of timeworn shops and homes. Kailua has become the B&B capital of Hawaii; it’s an affordable alternative to Waikiki, with rooms and vacation rentals starting at $100 a day. With the prevailing trade winds whipping up a cooling breeze, Kailua attracts windsurfers from around the world. On calmer days, kayaking or stand-up paddling to the Mokulua Islands off the coast is a favorite adventure.
Kaneohe Bay Helter-skelter suburbia sprawls around the edges of Kaneohe, one of the most scenic bays in the Pacific. After you clear the trafficky maze of town, Oahu returns to its more natural state. This great bay beckons you to get out on the water; you can depart from He‘eia Boat Harbor on snorkel or fishing charters. From here, you’ll have a panoramic view of the Koolau Range.
Kualoa/Laie The upper-northeast shore is one of Oahu’s most sacred places, an early Hawaiian landing spot where kings dipped their sails and ghosts still march in the night. Sheer cliffs stab the reef-fringed seacoast, while old fish ponds are tucked along the two-lane coast road that winds past empty gold-sand beaches around beautiful Kahana Bay. Thousands “explore” the South Pacific at the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie, a Mormon settlement with a temple and university.
The North Shore For locals, Oahu is often divided into “town” and “country”—town being urban Honolulu, and country referring to the North Shore. This coast yields expansive, beautiful beaches for swimming and snorkeling in the summer and world-class waves for surfing in the winter. Laid-back Haleiwa is the social hub of the North Shore, with its casual restaurants, surf shops, and clothing boutiques. Vacation rentals are the most common accommodations, but there’s also the first-class Turtle Bay Resort . Be forewarned: It’s a long trip—nearly an hour’s drive—to Honolulu and Waikiki, and even longer during the surf season, when tourists and wave-seekers can jam up the roads.
Central Oahu
Flanked by the Koolau and Waianae mountain ranges, the 1,000-foot-high Leilehua Plateau runs up and down the center of Oahu. Once covered with sandalwood forests (hacked down for the China trade) and later the sugarcane and pineapple backbone of Hawaii, Central Oahu is now trying to find a middle ground between farms and suburbia, from diversified agriculture in Kunia to the planned community in Mililani. Let your eye wander west to the Waianae Range and Mount Kaala, at 4,020 feet the highest summit on Oahu; up there in the misty rainforest, native birds thrive in the hummocky bog. In 1914, the U.S. Army pitched a tent camp on the plain; author James Jones would later call Schofield Barracks “the most beautiful army post in the world.” Hollywood filmed Jones’s From Here to Eternity here.
Leeward Oahu: The Waianae Coast
The west coast of Oahu is a hot and dry place of dramatic beauty: white-sand beaches bordering the deep-blue ocean, steep verdant green cliffs, and miles of Mother Nature’s wildness. Tourist services are concentrated in Ko Olina Resort, which has a Disney hotel and a Four Seasons (new in 2016), pricey resort restaurants, golf course, marina, and a wedding chapel, should you want to get hitched. This side of Oahu is less visited—though that could change as Ko Olina lures visitors from Waikiki—except by surfers bound for Makaha Beach and those coming to see needle-nose Kaena Point (the island’s westernmost outpost), which has a coastal wilderness park.
By Car Oahu residents own more than 686,000 registered vehicles, but they have only 1,500 miles of mostly two-lane roads to use. That’s 450 cars for every mile—a fact that becomes abundantly clear during morning and evening rush hours. You can (mostly) avoid the gridlock by driving between 9am and 2pm or after 7pm.
All of the major car-rental firms have agencies on Oahu at the airport and in Waikiki. For listings, see chapter 10. For tips on insurance and driving rules in Hawaii, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).
By Bus One of the best deals anywhere, TheBus will take you around the whole island for $2.50 ($1.25 for children age 6–17)—if you have the time. To get to the North Shore and back takes 4 hours, twice as long as if you travel by car. But for shorter distances, TheBus is great, and it goes almost everywhere almost all the time. If you’re planning on sticking to the Waikiki–Ala Moana–Downtown region, TheBus will save you a lot of car hassle and expense. The most popular route is no. 8, which arrives every 10 minutes or so to shuttle people between Waikiki and Ala Moana Center (the ride takes 15–20 min.). The no. 19 (Airport/Hickam), no. 20 (Airport/Halawa Gate), and no. 40 (Waipahu/Ala Moana) cover the same stretch. Waikiki service begins daily at 5am and runs until midnight; most buses run about every 15 minutes during the day and every 30 minutes in the evening.
The Circle Island–North Shore route is no. 52 (Wahiawa/Circle Island); the Circle Island–South Shore route is no. 55 (Kaneohe/Circle Island). Both routes leave Ala Moana Center every 30 minutes and take about 4½ hours to circle the island. Be aware that at Turtle Bay Resort, just outside Kahuku, the 52 becomes the 55 and returns to Honolulu via the coast, and the 55 becomes the 52 and returns to Honolulu on the inland route. (Translation: You’ll have to get off and switch buses to complete your island tour.) There are express buses available to some areas (for example, no. 54 to Pearl City, no. 85 to Kailua and to Kaneohe).
For more information on routes and schedules, call TheBus ( 808/848-5555, or 808/296-1818 for recorded information) or check out www.thebus.org, which provides timetables and maps for all routes, plus directions to many local attractions and a list of upcoming events. Taking TheBus is often easier than parking your car.
By Taxi Oahu’s major cab companies offer 24-hour, islandwide, radio-dispatched service, with multilingual drivers and air-conditioned cars, limos, and vans, including vehicles equipped with wheelchair lifts (there’s a $9 charge for wheelchairs). Fares are standard for all taxi firms. From the airport, expect to pay about $35 to $40 to Waikiki, about $25 to $35 to downtown, $60 and up to Kailua, about $60-plus to Hawaii Kai, and about $90 to $125 to the North Shore (plus tip). Plus there may be a $4.75 fee per piece of luggage.
Uber, the taxi-hailing app, has arrived in Honolulu. Use it on your phone to summon and pay for a ride in a private vehicle (standard taxi meter rates, plus a $1 surcharge; gratuity automatically added). If you prefer to go the old-fashioned route, try The Cab (www.thecabhawaii.com; 808/422-2222) or EcoCab (www.ecocabhawaii.com; 808/979-1010), an all-hybrid taxi fleet.
Dentists If you need dental attention while on Oahu, find a dentist near you through the website of the Hawaii Dental Association (www.hawaiidentalassociation.net).
Doctors Straub Clinic & Hospital’s Doctors on Call (www.straubhealth.org; 808/971-6000) can dispatch a van if you need help getting to the main clinic or its clinics at the Hilton Hawaiian Village and the Sheraton Waikiki.
Emergencies Call 911 for police, fire, or ambulance. If you need to call the Poison Control Center ( 800/222-1222), you will automatically be directed to the Poison Control Center for the area code of the phone you are calling from; all are available 24/7 and very helpful.
Hospitals Hospitals offering 24-hour emergency care include Queen’s Medical Center, 1301 Punchbowl St. ( 808/538-9011); Kuakini Medical Center, 347 Kuakini St. ( 808/536-2236); Straub Clinic & Hospital, 888 S. King St. ( 808/522-4000); Kaiser Permanente Medical Center, 3288 Moanalua Rd. ( 808/432-0000; note that the emergency room is open to Kaiser members only); Kapiolani Medical Center for Women & Children, 1319 Punahou St. ( 808/983-8633); and Kapiolani Medical Center at Pali Momi, 98-1079 Moanalua Rd. ( 808/486-6000). Central Oahu has Wahiawa General Hospital, 128 Lehua St. ( 808/621-8411). On the windward side is Castle Medical Center, 640 Ulukahiki St., Kailua ( 808/263-5500).
Internet Access Outside of your hotel, Starbucks is your best bet for Internet access. The Royal Hawaiian Center shopping mall and International Marketplace also have free Wi-Fi.
Newspapers Oahu’s only daily paper is the Honolulu Star Advertiser.
Post Office To find the location nearest you, call 800/275-8777. The downtown location is in the old U.S. Post Office, Customs, and Court House Building (referred to as the Old Federal Building) at 335 Merchant St., across from Iolani Palace and next to the Kamehameha Statue (bus: 20, E, or 19). Other branch offices can be found in Waikiki at 330 Saratoga Ave. (Diamond Head side of Fort DeRussy; bus: 19 or 20) and in the Ala Moana Center (bus: 8, 19, or 20).
Safety Be aware of car break-ins in touristed areas and beach parks; make sure to keep valuables out of sight.
Weather For National Weather Service recorded forecasts for Oahu, call 808/973-4380.
Attractions In & Around Honolulu & Waikiki
Historic Honolulu
The Waikiki you see today bears no resemblance to the Waikiki of yesteryear, a place of vast taro fields extending from the ocean to deep into Mānoa Valley, dotted with numerous fish ponds and gardens tended by thousands of people. This picture of old Waikiki can be recaptured by following the emerging Waikiki Historic Trail (www.waikikihistorictrail.org), a meandering 2-mile walk with 20 bronze surfboard markers (standing 6 ft., 5 in. tall—you can’t miss ’em), complete with descriptions and archival photos of the historic sites. The markers note everything from Waikiki’s ancient fishponds to the history of the Ala Wai Canal. The trail begins at Kuhio Beach and ends at the King Kalakaua statue at the intersection of Kuhio and Kalakaua avenues.
Bishop Museum 
MUSEUM This is a museum for adults and kids alike. For the adults: the original Hawaiian Hall, built in 1889 to house the collection of Hawaiian artifacts and royal family heirlooms of Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop, the last descendant of King Kamehameha I. Today, the exhibits, spread out over three floors, give the most complete sense of how ancient native Hawaiians lived. On display are carvings representing Hawaiian gods and the personal effects of Hawaiian royalty, including a feathered cape worn by Kamehameha himself. In the Hawaiian Hall Atrium, traditions come to life with the daily hula show (2pm).
Bishop Museum
For the kids, there’s the 50-foot sperm whale skeleton and the Richard T. Mamiya Science Adventure Center, featuring interactive exhibits on how volcanoes, wind, and waves work. There’s even a twice-daily “lava pour,” demonstrating lava in its molten liquid state and then, as it cools, as brittle volcanic glass. Don’t miss the shows at the J. Watamull Planetarium, in which you’ll explore the current evening sky and take home a star map so you can find the constellations and planets.
Hungry? Check out the museum cafe by Highway Inn, a favorite local restaurant that serves ono (delicious) Hawaiian plate lunches.
1525 Bernice St., just off Kalihi St./Likelike Hwy. www.bishopmuseum.org. 
808/847-3511. $23 adults, $20 seniors, $15 children 4–12. Daily 9am–5pm. Parking is $5. Bus: 2.
Hawaiian Mission Houses Historic Site and Archives 
HISTORIC SITE Centered on the first mission houses built in the 1800s, what was formerly known as the Mission Houses Museum has undergone a rebranding. Possibly it’s because missionaries have been cast as the bad white guys who eradicated native Hawaiian culture. Now, instead of depicting early American missionary life exclusively, the expanded focus includes collaborations between Hawaiians and missionaries, which resulted in successes like the printed Hawaiian language and widespread literacy (by the 1860s, Hawaii had the highest literacy rate of any nation). Through a series of programs, such as the evolution of Hawaiian music, and exhibits in the cellar of the 1821 Mission House (saloon pilot crackers and 19th-century bone-saw reproduction, anyone?), the plan is to encourage “emotional learning.” Missionaries, it turns out, were people, too.
553 S. King St. (at Kawaiahao St.). http://missionhouses.org. 808/447-3910. $10 adults, $8 military personnel and seniors, $6 students and children 6 and over, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm. Bus: 2 and 42.
Checking out the Honolulu Museum of Art on Family Sunday (see below) Every third Sunday of the month, the Museum of Art is free, offering a variety of art activities and movies for the kids. Past programs have included sessions making pirate sock puppets and screenings of animated shorts from around the world. You can also take the shuttle to the Spalding House, where the fun continues.
Visiting the Honolulu Zoo (p. 85) Visit Africa in Hawaii at the zoo, where the lions, giraffes, zebras, and elephants delight youngsters and parents alike.
Peeking Under the Sea at the Waikiki Aquarium (p. 86) The aquarium is pretty small, but it has a fascinating collection of alien-like jellyfish and allows for up-close encounters of the endangered Hawaiian monk seal and an octopus that changes color before your eyes. Check the aquarium website for family-friendly activities, including a Behind the Scenes tour, where you'll learn what makes the aquarium run, from habitat creation to fish food, and Exploring the Reef at night tours, where you’ll search the ocean reef for eels and octopi.
Snorkeling at Hanauma Bay (p. 104) Checked out the sea life at the aquarium? Now it’s time to swim with some of them! The inside of sheltered Hanauma Bay is usually very calm, making it the best spot for first-time snorkelers to swim alongside Hawaii’s brightly colored fish.
Eating Shave Ice (p. 146) No visit to Hawaii is complete without shave ice—powdery soft ice drenched in tropically flavored fruit syrups.
Beating Drums in a Tongan Village (p. 99) The Polynesian Cultural Center introduces kids to Polynesian activities, which include canoe paddling and Tahitian spear throwing. They’ll even let the kids help cook Samoan staples. The activities go on every day from 12:30 to 5:30pm.
Honolulu Museum of Art MUSEUM In 2011, the Honolulu Academy of Art merged with the Contemporary Museum and was renamed the (more apropos) Honolulu Museum of Art. It also finished a reinstallation of the European and American art galleries, bringing to light many pieces from the archives. The museum’s Asian collection includes a significant number of items from Japan, China, and Korea.
The Honolulu Museum of Art is also where tours of Shangri La start. Shuttles from the museum take visitors to tobacco heiress Doris Duke’s private palace on a 5-acre sanctuary in Black Point. It’s absolutely stunning, packed with Islamic art and intricate tilework from Iran, Turkey, and Syria; textiles from Egypt and India; and custom-painted ceilings by Moroccan artisans. Outside’s not so bad either, with ocean views all the way to Diamond Head. Make sure to book in advance—the tours fill up quickly, a testament to this unique wonder. Tours are offered Wednesday through Saturday and take 2½ hours.
Admittedly, I love the Spalding House (formerly the Contemporary Museum) more for its views and surrounding gardens than for its art collection. It’s in Tantalus, high above the city, and yet only a 10-minute drive from downtown. One of my favorite activities is the Lauhala and Lunch, where you picnic on the expansive lawn overlooking Honolulu. Call ahead to reserve a picnic basket from the Spalding House Café, which comes complete with tatami mats ($40 lunch for two).
900 S. Beretania St. www.honolulumuseum.org. 808/532-8700; 808/532-3853 for Shangri La reservations; 808/237-5225 for the Spalding House Café. $10 adults; $5 students, seniors, and military personnel; free for children 12 and under. Shangri La tours $25 ($20 Hawaii residents), children under 8 not admitted, advance reservations a must. Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm; Sun 1–5pm.
Iolani Palace 
HISTORIC BUILDING If you want to really “understand” Hawaii, this 45-minute tour is worth your time. The Iolani Palace was built by King David Kalākaua, who spared no expense. The 4-year project, completed in 1882, cost $360,000—and nearly bankrupted the Hawaiian kingdom. This four-story Italian Renaissance palace was the first electrified building in Honolulu (it had electricity before the White House and Buckingham Palace). Royals lived here for 11 years, until Queen Lili'uokalani was deposed and the Hawaiian monarchy fell forever in a palace coup led by U.S. Marines on January 17, 1893, at the demand of sugar planters and missionary descendants.
Iolani Palace
Cherished by latter-day royalists, the 10-room palace stands as an architectural statement of the monarchy period. Iolani attracts 60,000 visitors a year in groups of 15; everyone must don booties to scoot across the royal floors. Visitors take either a comprehensive guided tour , which offers a docent-guided tour of the interior, or a self-led audio tour. Finish by exploring the Basement Gallery on your own, where you’ll find crown jewels, ancient feathered cloaks, the royal china, and more.
364 S. King St. (at Richards St.). www.iolanipalace.org. 808/538-1471. Guided tour Tues–Sat $22 adults, $6 children 5–12; reservations required. Book online or visit the ticket office in the Iolani Barracks on the Palace Grounds. Audio tour $15 adults, $6 children 5–12. Gallery tour $7 adults, $3 children 5–12. Mon–Sat 9:30am–4pm. Children 4 and under allowed only in the Basement Gallery (with an adult). Extremely limited parking on palace grounds; try metered parking on the street. Bus: 2.
Kawaiahao Church CHURCH In 1842, Kawaiahao Church stood complete at last. Designed by Rev. Hiram Bingham (grandfather of explorer and politician Hiram Bingham III) and supervised by Kamehameha III, who ordered his people to help build it, the project took 5 years to complete. Workers quarried 14,000 coral blocks weighing 1,000 pounds each from the offshore reefs and cut timber in the forests for the beams. This proud stone church, complete with bell tower and colonial colonnade, was the first permanent Western house of worship in the islands. It became the church of the Hawaiian royalty and remains in use today. Some fine portraits of Hawaiian royalty hang inside, on the upper level. English- and Hawaiian-language services are held Sundays at 9am.
957 Punchbowl St. (at King St.). 808/469-3000. Free (donations appreciated). Mon–Sat 8am–4:30pm; Sun services 9am. Bus: 2.
Queen Emma Summer Palace PALACE Hanaiakamalama, the name of the country estate of Kamehameha IV and Queen Emma, was once in the secluded uplands of Nuuanu Valley. These days it’s adjacent to a six-lane highway full of speeding cars. This simple, seven-room New England–style house, built in 1848 and restored by the Daughters of Hawaii, is worth an hour of your time to see the interesting blend of Victorian furniture and hallmarks of Hawaiian royalty, including feather cloaks and kahili, the feathered standards that mark the presence of alii (royalty). Other royal treasures include a canoe-shaped cradle for Queen Emma’s baby, Prince Albert, who died at the age of 4. (Kauai’s ritzy Princeville Resort is named for the little prince.)
2913 Pali Hwy. (at Old Pali Rd.). http://daughtersofhawaii.org. 808/595-3167. $10 adults, $1 children 11 and under. Daily 9am–4pm. Bus: E or 57.
USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor HISTORIC SITE On December 7, 1941, the USS Arizona, while moored here in Pearl Harbor, was bombed in a Japanese air raid. The 608-foot battleship sank in 9 minutes without firing a shot, taking 1,177 sailors and Marines to their deaths—and catapulting the United States into World War II.
Note: At press time, the USS Arizona was closed to visitors for structural repairs. Park officials assured us the work would be done by late fall of 2018, but do check the website to make sure that the site is open once again.
Nobody who visits the memorial will ever forget it. The deck of the ship lies 6 feet below the surface of the sea. Oil still oozes slowly up from the Arizona’s engine room and stains the harbor’s calm, blue water; some say the ship still weeps for its lost crew. The memorial, designed by Alfred Preis, a German architect interned on Sand Island during the war, is a stark-white, 184-foot rectangular bridge that spans the sunken hull of the ship. It contains the ship’s bell, recovered from the wreckage, and a shrine room with the names of the dead carved in stone.
Pearl Harbor Visitor Center: Getting Tickets |
The USS Arizona Memorial, USS Bowfin and Submarine Museum, USS Missouri Memorial, and Pacific Aviation Museum are all accessed via the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center. Park here and purchase tickets for all the exhibits. (Entry to the USS Arizona Memorial is free, but you still must get a ticket. Better yet, for the USS Arizona, reserve your spot at www.recreation.gov to avoid a long wait.) Shuttle buses will deliver you to the sites within Pearl Harbor.
Today, free U.S. Navy launches take visitors to the Arizona. You can make an advance reservation to visit the memorial at the website www.recreation.gov for an additional $1.50 per-ticket convenience fee. This is highly recommended; if you try to get walk-up tickets directly at the visitor center, you may have to wait a few hours before the tour. While you’re waiting for the free shuttle to take you out to the ship, get the audio tour , which will make the trip even more meaningful. The tour (on an MP3 player) is about 2½ hours long, costs $7.50, and is worth every nickel. It’s like having your own personal park ranger as your guide. The tape is narrated by the late Ernest Borgnine and features stories told by actual Pearl Harbor survivors—both American and Japanese. Plus, while you’re waiting for the launch, the tour will take you step by step through the museum’s personal mementos, photographs, and historic documents. You can pause the tour for the moving 20-minute film that precedes your trip to the ship. The tour continues on the launch, describing the shoreline and letting you know what’s in store at the memorial itself. At the memorial, the tour gives you a mental picture of that fateful day, and the narration continues on your boat ride back. Allow a total of at least 4 hours for your visit.
Note that boat rides to the Arizona are sometimes suspended because of high winds. Check the World War II Valor in the Pacific Facebook page (www.facebook.com/valorNPS) for updated information on boat ride suspensions. Due to increased security measures, visitors cannot carry purses, handbags, fanny packs, backpacks, camera bags (though you can carry your camera, cellphone, or video camera with you), diaper bags, or other items that offer concealment on the boat. However, there is a storage facility where you can stash carry-on-size items (no bigger than 30×30×18 in.) for a fee. A reminder to parents: Baby strollers, baby carriages, and baby backpacks are not allowed inside the theater, on the boat, or on the USS Arizona Memorial. All babies must be carried. One last note: Most unfortunately, the USS Arizona Memorial is a high-theft area—so leave your valuables at the hotel.
Pearl Harbor. www.nps.gov/usar. 808/422-3300. Free. $7.50 for the audio guide. Highly recommended: Make an advance reservation to visit the memorial at www.recreation.gov. Children 11 and under should be accompanied by an adult. Wheelchairs gladly accommodated. Daily 7am–5pm (programs run 8am–3pm). Drive west on H-1 past the airport; take the USS Arizona Memorial exit and follow the green-and-white signs; there’s ample free parking. Bus: 40 or 42; or Arizona Memorial Shuttle Bus VIP ( 866/836-0317), which picks up at Waikiki hotels 7am–noon ($10 per person round-trip).
USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park HISTORIC SITE Ever wonder what life on a submarine is like? Then go inside the USS Bowfin, aka the Pearl Harbor Avenger, to experience the claustrophobic quarters where soldiers lived and launched torpedoes. The Bowfin Museum details wartime submarine history and gives a sense of the impressive technical challenges that must be overcome for submarines to even exist. The Waterfront Memorial honors submariners lost during World War II.
11 Arizona Memorial Dr. (next to the USS Arizona Memorial Visitor Center). www.bowfin.org. 808/423-1341. $12 adults, $8 active-duty military personnel and seniors, $5 children 4–12 (children 3 and under not permitted for safety reasons). Daily 7am–5pm (last admission 4:30pm). See USS Arizona Memorial, above, for driving, bus, and shuttle directions.
USS Missouri Memorial HISTORIC SITE In the deck of this 58,000-ton battleship (the last one the navy launched), World War II came to an end with the signing of the Japanese surrender on September 2, 1945. The Missouri was part of the force that carried out bombing raids over Tokyo and provided firepower in the battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa. In 1955, the navy decommissioned the ship and mothballed it at the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard in Washington State. But the Missouri was modernized and called back into action in 1986, eventually being deployed in the Persian Gulf War, before retiring once again in 1992. Here it sat until another battle ensued, this time over who would get the right to keep this living legend. Hawaii won that battle and brought the ship to Pearl Harbor in 1998. The 887-foot ship is now open to visitors as a museum memorial.
You’re free to explore on your own or take a guided tour. Highlights of this massive (more than 200-ft. tall) battleship include the forecastle (or “fo’c’s’le,” in navy talk), where the 30,000-pound anchors are dropped on 1,080 feet of anchor chain; the 16-inch guns (each 65 ft. long and weighing 116 tons), which can accurately fire a 2,700-pound shell some 23 miles in 50 seconds; and the spot where the Instrument of Surrender was signed as Douglas MacArthur, Chester Nimitz, and “Bull” Halsey looked on.
Battleship Row, Pearl Harbor. www.ussmissouri.com. 877/MIGHTY-MO. $27 adults, $13 children 4–12. Mighty Mo Tour (35 min.); Heart of the Missouri Tour (90 min.) $27 extra. Daily 8am–5pm; guided tours 8:15am–4:15pm. Check in at the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum, next to the USS Arizona Memorial Visitor Center. See USS Arizona Memorial, above, for driving, bus, and shuttle directions.
National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific CEMETERY The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific (aka Punchbowl) is an ash-and-lava tuff cone that exploded about 150,000 years ago—like Diamond Head, only smaller. Early Hawaiians called it Puowaina, or “hill of sacrifice.” The old crater is a burial ground for veterans as well as the 35,000 victims of three American wars in Asia and the Pacific: World War II, Korea, and Vietnam. Among the graves, you’ll find many unmarked ones with the date December 7, 1941, carved in stone. Some names will be unknown forever; others are famous, like that of war correspondent Ernie Pyle, killed by a Japanese sniper in April 1945 on Okinawa; still others buried here are remembered only by family and surviving buddies. The white stone tablets known as the Courts of the Missing bear the names of 28,788 Americans missing in action in World War II.
Punchbowl Crater, 2177 Puowaina Dr. (at the end of the road). Free. Daily 8am–5:30pm (Mar–Sept to 6:30pm). Bus: 2 or 42, with a long walk.
Pacific Aviation Museum MUSEUM The Pacific Aviation Museum is the flashiest (and newest) of the Pearl Harbor exhibits, with its propaganda-esque written histories and signs. There are two hangars: Hangar 37 includes planes involved in the 1942 attack, but the best is Hangar 79, the doors still riddled with bullet holes from the Pearl Harbor strafing. It houses military aircraft, old and new; you can even climb into the cockpit of some of them. On the far end is the Restoration Shop, where you can watch vintage aircraft actively being restored. For an additional $10, sit in a Combat Flight Simulator, like an immersive video game in which you fly a plane and shoot down the enemy.
Hanger 39, 319 Lexington Blvd., Ford Island (next to the red-and-white control tower). www.pacificaviationmuseum.org. 808/441-1000. $25 adults, $15 children 4–12; guided behind-the-scenes tour $35 adults, $25 children 4–12. Daily 9am–5pm. See USS Arizona Memorial, above, for driving, bus, and shuttle directions.
Just Beyond Pearl Harbor
Hawaiian Railway TRAIN It’s like a Disneyland ride . . . through Honolulu’s suburbia. It’s also a quirky way to see the less-traveled leeward side of Oahu. Between 1890 and 1947, the chief mode of transportation for Oahu’s sugar mills was the Oahu Railway and Land Co.’s narrow-gauge trains. The line carried not only equipment, raw sugar, and supplies, but also passengers from one side of the island to the other. About 6 miles of the train tracks have been restored, starting in ‘Ewa and ending along the coast at Kahe Point. Don’t expect ocean views all the way—you’re passing through the heart of suburban Honolulu (yup, that’s a Costco and a power plant) before you reach the ocean. Still, the 1½-hour narrated ride is pretty amusing. Even better, book the 3pm rides, and the train stops at Ko Olina resort for ice cream.
91-1001 Renton Rd., Ewa. www.hawaiianrailway.com. 808/681-5461. $12 adults, $8 seniors and children 2–12. Parlor Car 64 $25. Departures Sat at 3pm and Sun at 1 and 3pm and weekdays by appointment. Take H-1 west to Exit 5A; take Hwy. 76 south for 2½ miles to Tesoro Gas; turn right on Renton Rd. and drive 1½ miles to end of paved section. The station is on the left. Bus: E or 42, with a 1½-mile walk.
Hawaii’s Plantation Village HISTORIC SITE The hour-long tour of this restored 50-acre village offers a glimpse back in time to when sugar planters shaped the land, economy, and culture of Hawaii. From 1852, when the first contract laborers arrived here from China, to 1947, when the plantation era ended, more than 400,000 men, women, and children from China, Japan, Portugal, Puerto Rico, Korea, and the Philippines came to work the sugarcane fields. The “talk story” tour brings the old village alive with 30 faithfully restored camp houses, Chinese and Japanese temples, the Plantation Store, and even a sumo-wrestling ring.
94-695 Waipahu St. (at Waipahu Depot Rd.), Waipahu. www.hawaiiplantationvillage.org. 808/677-0110. Admission with guided tour $15 adults, $12 seniors, $8 military personnel, $6 children 4–11. Mon–Sat 10am–2pm. Take H-1 west to Waikele-Waipahu exit (Exit 7); get in the left lane of the exit and turn left on Paiwa St.; at the 5th light, turn right onto Waipahu St.; after the 2nd light, turn left. Bus: 40 or 42.
Gardens, Aquariums & Zoos
Foster Botanical Garden GARDEN You could spend days in this unique historic garden, a leafy oasis amid the high-rises of downtown Honolulu. Combine a tour of the garden with a trip to Chinatown (just across the street) to maximize your time and double your pleasure. The giant trees that tower over the garden’s main terrace were planted in the 1850s by William Hillebrand, a German physician and botanist, on royal land leased from Queen Emma. Today this 14-acre public garden, on the north side of Chinatown, is a living museum of plants, some rare and endangered, collected from the tropical regions of the world. Of special interest are 26 “Exceptional Trees” protected by state law, a large palm collection, a primitive cycad garden, and a hybrid orchid collection.
50 N. Vineyard Blvd. (at Nuuanu Ave.). 808/522-7066. $5 adults, $1 children 6–12. Daily 9am–4pm; guided tours Mon–Sat at 1pm (reservations recommended). Bus: 19 or E.
Foster Botanical Garden
Honolulu Zoo ZOO Nobody comes to Hawaii to see an Indian elephant or African lions and zebras, right? Wrong. This 43-acre municipal zoo in Waikiki attracts visitors in droves. If you’ve got kids, allot at least half a day. The highlight is the African Savanna, a 10-acre exhibit with more than 40 African critters, including antelope and giraffes. The zoo also has a rare Hawaiian nene goose, one of the few indigenous animals left in Hawaii.
151 Kapahulu Ave. (between Paki and Kalākaua aves.), at entrance to Kapi‘olani Park. www.honoluluzoo.org. 808/971-7171. $14 adults, $6 children 3–12. Daily 9am–4:30pm. Zoo parking (entrance on Kapahulu Ave.) $1 per hr. Bus: 8 or 42.
Lyon Arboretum GARDEN The Lyon Arboretum dates from 1918, when the Hawaiian Sugar Planters Association wanted to demonstrate the value of watershed for reforestation. In 1953, it became part of the University of Hawaii, where they continued to expand the extensive collection of tropical plants. Six-story-tall breadfruit trees, yellow orchids no bigger than a nickel, ferns with fuzzy buds as big as a human head—these are just a few of the botanical wonders you’ll find at the 194-acre arboretum. A whole different world opens up to you along the self-guided, 20-minute hike through the arboretum to Inspiration Point. You’ll pass more than 5,000 exotic tropical plants full of singing birds in this cultivated rainforest at the head of Manoa Valley.
3860 Manoa Rd. (near the top of the road). www.hawaii.edu/lyonarboretum. 808/988-0456. Suggested donation $5. Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat 9am–3pm. Bus: 5.
Waikiki Aquarium AQUARIUM Half of Hawaii’s beauty is its underwater world. Behold the chambered nautilus, nature’s submarine and inspiration for Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. You can see this tropical, spiral-shelled cephalopod mollusk—the only living one born in captivity—any day of the week here. Its natural habitat is the deep waters of Micronesia, but former aquarium director Bruce Carlson not only succeeded in trapping the pearly shelled creature in 1,500 feet of water (by dangling chunks of raw tuna), but also managed to breed this ancient relative of the octopus. There are plenty of other fish to see in this small but first-class aquarium, located on a live coral reef. The reef habitat features sharks, eels, a touch tank, and habitats for the endangered Hawaiian monk seal and green sea turtle. The rotating jellyfish exhibit is otherworldly—it’s like watching alien life. The aquarium is small; you’ll probably need only an hour or less to see everything.
2777 Kalakaua Ave. (across from Kapiolani Park). www.waikikiaquarium.org. 808/923-9741. $12 adults, $8 active military, $5 seniors and children 4–12. Daily 9am–4:30pm. Bus: 2 and Waikiki Trolley’s Green Line.
Waikiki Aquarium
Other Natural Wonders & Spectacular Views
In addition to the attractions listed below, check out the hike to Diamond Head Crater (p. 117); almost everybody can handle it, and the 360-degree views from the top are fabulous.
Nuuanu Pali Lookout NATURAL ATTRACTION Gale-force winds sometimes howl through the mountain pass at this 1,186-foot-high perch guarded by 3,000-foot peaks, so hold on to your hat—and small children. But if you walk up from the parking lot to the precipice, you’ll be rewarded with a view that’ll blow you away. At the edge, the dizzying panorama of Oahu’s windward side is breathtaking: Clouds low enough to pinch scoot by on trade winds; pinnacles of the pali (cliffs), green with ferns, often disappear in the mist. From on high, the tropical palette of green and blue runs down to the sea. Combine this 10-minute stop with a trip over the pali to the windward side.
Near the summit of Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61); take the Nuuanu Pali Lookout turnoff. Parking lot $3 per vehicle.
Puu Ualakaa State Park STATE PARK/NATURAL ATTRACTION The best sunset view of Honolulu is from a 1,048-foot-high hill named for sweet potatoes. Actually, the poetic Hawaiian name means “rolling sweet potato hill,” for the way early planters used gravity to harvest their crop. The panorama is sweeping and majestic. On a clear day—which is often—you can see from Diamond Head to the Wai‘anae Range, almost the length of Oahu. At night, several scenic overlooks provide romantic spots high above the city lights.
At the end of Round Hill Dr. Daily 7am–6:45pm (to 7:45pm in summer). From Waikiki, take Ala Wai Blvd. to McCully St., turn right, and drive mauka (inland) beyond the H-1 on-ramps to Wilder St.; turn left and go to Makiki St.; turn right, and continue onward and upward about 3 miles.
Walking Tour: Historic Honolulu
The 1800s were a turbulent time in Hawaii. By the end of the 1790s, Kamehameha the Great had united all the islands. Foreigners then began arriving by ship—first explorers, then merchants, and then, in 1820, missionaries. The rulers of Hawaii were hard-pressed to keep up. By 1840, it was clear that the capital had shifted from Lahaina, where the Kingdom of Hawaii was actually centered, to Honolulu, where the majority of commerce and trade was taking place. In 1848, the Great Mahele (division) enabled commoners and, eventually, foreigners to own crown land, and in two generations, more than 80% of all private lands had shifted to foreign ownership. With the introduction of sugar as a crop, the foreigners prospered, and in time they put more and more pressures on the government.
By 1872, the monarchy had run through the Kamehameha line and, in 1873, David Kalakaua was elected to the throne. Known as the “Merrie Monarch,” Kalakaua redefined the monarchy by going on a world tour, building Iolani Palace, having a European-style coronation, and throwing extravagant parties. By the end of the 1800s, however, the foreign sugar growers and merchants had become extremely powerful in Hawaii. With the assistance of the U.S. Marines, they orchestrated the overthrow of Queen Liliuokalani, Hawaii’s last reigning monarch, in 1893. The United States declared Hawaii a territory in 1898.
You can witness the remnants of these turbulent years in just a few short blocks.
Cross the street from the garage and venture back to 1858 when you enter:
1St. Andrew’s Church
The Hawaiian monarchs were greatly influenced by the royals in Europe. When King Kamehameha IV saw the grandeur of the Church of England, he decided to build his own cathedral. He and Queen Emma founded the Anglican Church of Hawaii in 1858. The king didn’t live to see the church completed, however; he died on St. Andrew’s Day, 4 years before King Kamehameha V oversaw the laying of the cornerstone in 1867. The church was named St. Andrew’s in honor of King Kamehameha IV’s death. This French-Gothic structure was shipped in pieces from England. Even if you aren’t fond of visiting churches, you have to see the floor-to-eaves, hand-blown stained-glass window that faces the setting sun. In the glass is a mural of Rev. Thomas Staley (the first bishop in Hawaii), King Kamehameha IV, and Queen Emma. Services are conducted in English and Hawaiian. On Sundays at 8am the Hawaiian Choir sings Hawaiian hymns, and at 10:30am the Cathedral Choir, in existence for 150 years, performs.
Next, walk down Beretania Street in the Diamond Head direction to the gates of:
2Washington Place
This was the former home of Queen Liliuokalani, Hawaii’s last queen. For 80 years after her death, it served as the governor’s house, until a new home was built on the property in 2002 and the historic residence was opened to the public. Tours are held Thursdays at 10am by reservation only. They’re free; fill out the request form at (washingtonplacefoundation.org) at least 2 days in advance to reserve. The Greek Revival–style home, built in 1842 by a U.S. sea captain named John Dominis, got its name from the U.S. ambassador who once stayed here and told so many stories about George Washington that people starting calling the home Washington Place. The sea captain’s son married a Hawaiian princess, Lydia Kapaakea, who later became Queen Liliuokalani. When the queen was overthrown by U.S. businessmen in 1893, she moved out of Iolani Palace and into Washington Place, where she lived until her death in 1917. On the left side of the building, near the sidewalk, is a plaque inscribed with the words to one of the most popular songs written by Queen Liliuokalani, “Aloha Oe” (“Farewell to Thee”).
Cross the street and walk to the front of the Hawaii State Capitol, where you’ll find the:
3Father Damien Statue
The people of Hawaii have never forgotten the sacrifice this Belgian priest made to help the sufferers of leprosy when he volunteered to work with them in exile on the Kalaupapa Peninsula on the island of Molokai. After 16 years of service, Father Damien himself died of leprosy, at the age of 49. The statue is frequently draped in leis in recognition of Father Damien’s humanitarian work.
Behind the Father Damien Statue is the:
4Hawaii State Capitol
Here’s where Hawaii’s state legislators work from mid-January to the end of April every year. The building’s unusual design has palm tree–shaped pillars, two cone-shaped chambers (representing volcanoes) for the legislative bodies, and, in the inner courtyard, a 600,000-tile mosaic of the sea (Aquarius) created by Tadashi Sato, a Hawaii-born and world-renowned artist. A reflecting pool (representing the sea) surrounds the entire structure. You are welcome to go into the rotunda and see the woven hangings and murals at the entrance; pick up a self-guided-tour brochure at the governor’s office on the fourth floor. The public is also welcome to observe the state government in action during legislative sessions (www.capitol.hawaii.gov).
Walk down Richards Street toward the ocean and stop at:
5Iolani Palace
Hawaii is the only state in the U.S. to have not one but two royal palaces: one in Kona, where the royals went during the summer, and Iolani Palace (Iolani means “royal hawk”). Don’t miss the opportunity to see this grande dame of historic buildings. Guided tours are $22 adults, $6 children 5 to 12; self-guided audio tours are $15 adults, $6 children 5 to 12; and basement gallery tours are $7 adults, $3 children 5 to 12. It’s open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 4pm; call 808/522-0832 or book online (www.iolanipalace.org) to reserve in advance, as spots are limited.
In ancient times, a heiau (temple) stood in this area. When it became clear to King Kamehameha III that the capital should be transferred from Lahaina to Honolulu, he moved to a modest building here in 1845. The construction of the palace began in 1879 by King David Kalakaua and was finished 3 years later at a cost of $350,000. The king spared no expense: You can still see the glass and iron work imported from San Francisco, and the palace had all the modern conveniences for its time. Electric lights were installed 4 years before the White House had them, and every bedroom had its own full bathroom with hot and cold running water, copper-lined tub, flush toilet, and bidet. The king had a telephone line from the palace to his boathouse on the water a year after Alexander Graham Bell introduced it to the world.
It was also in this palace that Queen Liliuokalani was overthrown and placed under house arrest for 9 months. Later, the territorial and then the state government used the palace until it outgrew it. When the legislature left in 1968, the palace was in shambles. It has since undergone a $7-million overhaul to restore it to its former glory.
After you visit the palace, spend some time on the:
6Iolani Palace Grounds
You can wander around the grounds at no charge. The ticket window to the palace and the gift shop are in the former barracks of the Royal Household Guards. The domed pavilion on the grounds was originally built as a Coronation Stand by King Kalākaua (9 years after he took the throne, the king decided to have a formal European-style coronation ceremony where he crowned himself and his queen, Kapiolani). Later he used it as a Royal Bandstand for concerts (King Kalakaua, along with Henri Berger, the first Royal Hawaiian Bandmaster, wrote “Hawaii Ponoi,” the state anthem). Today, the Royal Hawaiian Band, founded in 1836 by King Kamehameha III, plays at the Royal Bandstand every Friday from noon to 1pm.
From the palace grounds, turn in the Ewa direction, cross Richards Street, and walk to the corner of Richards and Hotel streets to the:
7Hawaii State Art Museum
Opened in 2002, the Hawaii State Art Museum is housed in the original Royal Hawaiian hotel, built in 1872 during the reign of King Kamehameha V. Most of the art displayed in the 300-piece collection was created by local artists. The pieces were purchased by the state, thanks to a 1967 law that says that 1% of the cost of state buildings will be used to acquire works of art. Nearly 5 decades later, the state has amassed almost 6,000 pieces.
Walk makai down Richards Street and turn left (toward Diamond Head) on South King Street to the:
8King Kamehameha Statue
At the juncture of King, Merchant, and Mililani streets stands a replica of the man who united the Hawaiian Islands. The striking black-and-gold bronze statue is magnificent. Try to see the statue on June 11 (King Kamehameha Day), when it is covered with leis in honor of Hawaii’s favorite son.
King Kamehameha statue
The statue of Kamehameha I was cast by Thomas Gould in 1880 in Paris. However, it was lost at sea somewhere near the Falkland Islands. Subsequently, the insurance money was used to pay for a second statue, but in the meantime, the original statue was recovered. The original was eventually sent to the town of Kapa'au on the Big Island, the birthplace of Kamehameha, and the second statue was placed in Honolulu in 1883, as part of King David Kalākaua’s coronation ceremony.
Right behind the King Kamehameha Statue is:
9Aliiolani Hale
The name translates to “House of Heavenly Kings.” This distinctive building, with a clock tower, now houses the Supreme Court of Hawaii and the Judiciary History Center. King Kamehameha V originally wanted to build a palace here and commissioned the Australian architect Thomas Rowe in 1872. However, it ended up as the first major government building for the Hawaiian monarchy. Kamehameha V didn’t live to see it completed, and King David Kalākaua dedicated the building in 1874. Ironically, less than 20 years later, on January 17, 1893, Stanford Dole, backed by other prominent sugar planters, stood on the steps to this building and proclaimed the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy and the establishment of a provisional government. Self-guided tours are available Monday through Friday from 7:45am to 4:30pm; admission is free.
Walk toward Diamond Head on King Street; at the corner of King and Punchbowl, stop in at the:
10Kawaiahao Church
When the missionaries came to Hawaii, the first thing they did was build churches. Four thatched-grass churches (one measured 54×22 ft. and could seat 300 people on lauhala mats; the last thatched church held 4,500 people) had been built on this site through 1837, before Rev. Hiram Bingham began building what he considered a “real” church: a New England–style congregational structure with Gothic influences. Between 1837 and 1842, the construction of the church required some 14,000 giant coral slabs (some weighing more than 1,000 pounds). Hawaiian divers ravaged the reefs, digging out huge chunks of coral and causing irreparable environmental damage.
Kawaiahao is Hawaii’s oldest church and has been the site of numerous historic events, such as a speech made by King Kamehameha III in 1843, an excerpt from which became Hawaii’s state motto (“Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono,” which translates as “The life of the land is preserved in righteousness”).
The church is open Monday through Saturday 8am to 4:30pm; you’ll find it to be very cool in temperature. Don’t sit in the back pews marked with kahili feathers and velvet cushions; they are still reserved for the descendants of royalty. Sunday service (in English and Hawaiian) is at 9am.
Cross the street, and you’ll see the:
11Hawaiian Mission Houses
On the corner of King and Kawaiahao streets stand the original buildings of the Sandwich Islands Mission Headquarters: the Frame House (built in 1821), the Chamberlain House (1831), and the Printing Office (1841). The complex is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10am to 4pm; admission is $10 adults, $8 seniors and military personnel, and $6 students and children 6 and older. The tours are often led by descendants of the original missionaries to Hawaii. For information, go to www.missionhouses.org.
Believe it or not, the missionaries brought their own prefab house along with them when they came around Cape Horn from Boston in 1819. The Frame House was designed for New England winters and had small windows (it must have been stiflingly hot inside). Finished in 1821 (the interior frame was left behind and didn’t arrive until Christmas 1820), it is Hawaii’s oldest wooden structure. The Chamberlain House, built in 1831, was used by the missionaries as a storehouse.
The missionaries believed that the best way to spread the Lord’s message to the Hawaiians was to learn their language, and then to print literature for them to read. So it was the missionaries who gave the Hawaiians a written language. The Printing House on the grounds was where the lead-type Ramage press (brought from New England, of course) was used to print the Hawaiian Bible.
Cross King Street and walk in the Ewa direction to the corner of Punchbowl and King to:
12Honolulu Hale
The Honolulu City Hall, built in 1927, was designed by Honolulu’s most famous architect, C. W. Dickey. His Spanish Mission–style building has an open-air courtyard, which is used for art exhibits and concerts. It’s open Monday through Friday.
Cross Punchbowl Street and walk mauka to the:
13State Library
Anything you want to know about Hawaii and the Pacific can be found here, at the main branch of the state’s library system. Located in a restored historic building, it has an open garden courtyard in the middle, great for stopping for a rest on your walk.
Head down Beretania in the Ewa direction to Alakea back to the parking garage.
Beyond Honolulu: Exploring the Island by Car
Urban Honolulu, with its history, cuisine, and shopping, can captivate travelers for days. But the rest of the island draws them out in its promise of wild coastlines and unique adventures.
Oahu’s Southeast Coast
From the high-rises of Waikiki, venture down Kalakaua Avenue through tree-lined Kapiolani Park to take a look at a different side of Oahu, the arid southeast shore. The landscape here is more moonscape, with prickly cacti onshore and, in winter, spouting whales cavorting in the water.
To get to this coast, follow Kalakaua Avenue past the multitiered Dillingham Fountain and around the bend in the road, which now becomes Poni Moi Road. Make a right on Diamond Head Road and begin the climb up the side of the old crater. At the top are several lookout points, so if the official Diamond Head Lookout is jammed with cars, try one of the other lookouts just down the road. The view of the rolling waves and surfers is spectacular; take the time to pull over. This is also a wonderful place to begin your day early and watch the sun rise.
Diamond Head Road rolls downhill into the ritzy community of Kahala. At the fork in the road at the triangular Fort Ruger Park, veer to your right and continue on the palm tree–lined Kahala Avenue. Make a left on Hunakai Street, and then take a right on Kīlauea Avenue and look for the sign, “H-1 west.” Turn right at the sign, although you won’t get on the H-1 freeway; instead, get on Kalanianaole Highway, a four-lane highway interrupted every few blocks by a stoplight. This is the suburban bedroom community to Honolulu, marked by malls on the left and beach parks on the right.
One of these parks is Hanauma Bay (p. 104); you’ll see the turnoff on the right when you’re about half an hour from Waikiki. This marine preserve is one of the island’s best places to snorkel; you’ll find the friendliest fish on the island here. A reminder: The beach park is closed on Tuesday.
Around mile marker 11, the jagged lava coast itself spouts sea foam at the Halona Blowhole. Look out to sea from Halona over Sandy Beach and across the 26-mile gulf to neighboring Molokai and the faint triangular shadow of Lanai on the far horizon. Sandy Beach (p. 106) is one of Oahu’s most dangerous beaches, with thundering shorebreak. Bodyboarders just love it.
The coast looks raw and empty along this stretch as the road weaves past old Hawaiian fish ponds and the famous formation known as Pele’s Chair, just off Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72) above Queen’s Beach. From a distance, the lava-rock outcropping looks like a mighty throne; it’s believed to be the fire goddess’s last resting place on Oahu before she flew off to continue her work on other islands.
Ahead lies 647-foot-high Makapuu Point, with a lighthouse that once signaled safe passage for steamship passengers arriving from San Francisco. The automated light now brightens Oahu’s south coast for passing tankers, fishing boats, and sailors. You can take a short hike up the Makapuu Lighthouse Trail (p. 119) for a spectacular vista.
Turn the corner at Makapuu and you’re on Oahu’s windward side, where cooling trade winds propel windsurfers across turquoise bays; the waves at Makapuu Beach Park (p. 106) are perfect for bodysurfing.
Ahead, the coastal vista is a profusion of fluted green mountains and strange peaks, edged by golden beaches and the blue, blue Pacific. The 3,000-foot-high, sheer, green Koolau mountains plunge almost straight down, presenting an irresistible jumping-off spot for paragliders. Most likely, you’ll spot their colorful chutes in the sky, looking like balloons released into the wind.
Winding up the coast, Kalaniana'ole Highway (Hwy. 72) leads through rural Waimanalo, a country beach town of nurseries and stables. Nearly 4 miles long, Waimanalo Beach (p. 110) is Oahu’s longest beach and popular with local families on weekends. Take a swim here or head on to Kailua Beach (p. 108), one of Hawaii’s best.
The Windward Coast
From the Nuunau Pali Lookout , near the summit of the Pali Highway (Hwy. 61), you get the first hint of the other side of Oahu, a region so green and lovely that it could be an island sibling of Tahiti. With its many beaches and bays, the scenic 30-mile Windward Coast parallels the corduroy-ridged, nearly perpendicular cliffs of the Koolau Range, which separates the windward side of the island from Honolulu and the rest of Oahu. As you descend on the serpentine Pali Highway beneath often-gushing waterfalls, you’ll see the nearly 1,000-foot spike of Olomana, a bold pinnacle that beckons intrepid hikers, and, beyond, the town of Waimanalo, where many of Native Hawaiian descent live. Stop by Ai Love Nalo (p. 159), for a fruit smoothie or fresh and flavorful renditions of local classics, such as a veggie laulau or poi parfait, layered with seasonal fruit, granola, and coconut flakes.
From the Pali Highway, to the right is Kailua, Hawaii’s biggest beach town, with more than 50,000 residents and 2 special beaches, Kailua Beach (p. 108) and Lanikai Beach (p. 108). You can easily spend an entire day in Kailua, which I absolutely recommend, whether to laze on the sand or stand-up paddle to the Mokuloa Islands. But Kailua isn’t all beach: Chic boutiques line the streets, such as Oliver Men’s Shop and the Aloha Beach Club, and you can grab a shave ice at The Local Hawaii (p. 168).
After whiling away a day in Kailua, allocate another day for exploring the rest of the Windward coast. Take Highway 830N, which goes through Kaneohe and then follows the coast to Heeia State Park. Here, you’ll find Heeia Fish Pond, which ancient Hawaiians built by enclosing natural bays with rocks to trap fish on the incoming tide. The 88-acre fish pond, which is made of lava rock and had four watchtowers to observe fish movement and several sluice gates along the 5,000-foot-long wall, is now in the process of being restored.
Drive onto Heeia Pier, which juts onto Kaneohe Bay. You can take a snorkel cruise here or sail out to a sandbar in the middle of the bay for an incredible view of Oahu that most people, even those who live here, never see. Incredibly scenic Kaneohe Bay is spiked with islets and lined with gold-sand beach parks like Kualoa Regional Park (p. 111), a favorite picnic spot. The bay has a barrier reef and four tiny islets, one of which is known as Moku o loe, or Coconut Island. Don’t be surprised if it looks familiar—it appeared in Gilligan’s Island.
The windward side harbors some of Oahu’s best remaining general stores—Hawaii’s mom-and-pop version of a convenience store or a New York bodega. Here, nostalgia is sold alongside the boiled peanuts by the cash register. Under the same roof, you might find smoked meat and toilet paper, butter mochi and fishing supplies. Here are three of our favorites (listed from south to north):
Waikane Store, 48-377 Kamehameha Hwy. (
808/239-8522): Locals pop into this little lime-green store that dates back to 1898. Nothing fancy here, just simple maki sushi rolls wrapped in wax paper, fried chicken, and homemade cookies—all perfect for the beach.
Ching’s Punaluu Store, 53-360 Kamehameha Hwy. ( 808/237-7017): This bright-red store, run by the third generation, offers all the local favorites—from chili to soft serve. Don’t miss the butter mochi—a local sweet treat made with glutinous rice flour. It’s pure, chewy comfort.
Kahuku Superette 
, 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy. ( 808/293-9878): Kahuku’s shrimp trucks may entice with their potent, garlicky smells, but absolutely don’t miss the poke (seasoned raw fish) from Kahuku Superette. If you’re not afraid of kimchi, get the special poke: fresh ahi tuna with a housemade, fermented, gingery paste that’s sure to waken your taste buds. Want something milder? Try the shoyu poke. This nondescript store is a must-stop for many of Honolulu’s notable chefs.
Everyone calls the other distinctively shaped island Chinaman’s Hat, but it’s really named Mokolii. It’s a sacred puu honua, or place of refuge, like the restored Puu Honua Honaunau on the Big Island of Hawaii. Excavations have unearthed evidence that this area was the home of ancient alii (royalty). Early Hawaiians believed that Mokolii (Fin of the Lizard) is all that remains of a mo‘o, or lizard, slain by Pele’s sister, Hiiaka, and hurled into the sea. At low tide you can swim out to the island, but keep watch on the changing tide, which can sweep you out to sea. You can also kayak to the island; park your car and launch your kayak from Kualoa Regional Park. It’s about a half-hour hike to the top, which awards you views of the Koolau mountains and Kaneohe Bay.
Little poly-voweled beach towns like Kahaluu, Kaaawa, Punaluu, and Hauula pop up along the coast, offering passersby shell shops and art galleries to explore. Roadside fruit and flower stands vend ice-cold coconuts to drink (vendors lop off the top and provide the straws) and tree-ripened mangoes, papayas, and apple bananas (short bananas with a tart apple aftertaste).
Sugar, once the sole industry of this region, is gone. But Kahuku, the former sugar-plantation town, has found new life as a small aquaculture community with shrimp farms. Not of all the shrimp trucks use local shrimp, however—Romy’s is one of the few, while the perpetually popular Giovanni’s cooks up imported, frozen shrimp. Definitely stop for a poke bowl at Kahuku Superette (p. 98).
From here, continue along Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) to the North Shore.
Attractions Along the Windward Coast
The attractions below are arranged geographically as you drive up the coast from south to north.
Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden GARDEN This 400-acre botanical garden at the foot of the steepled Koolau Range is the perfect place for a picnic. Its name means “a peaceful refuge,” and that’s exactly what the Army Corps of Engineers created when they installed a flood-control project here, which resulted in a 32-acre freshwater lake and garden. Just unfold a beach mat, lie back, and watch the clouds race across the rippled cliffs of the majestic Koolau Mountains. This is one of the few public places on Oahu that provides a close-up view of the steepled cliffs. The park has hiking trails and a lovely, quiet campground (p. 140). If you like hiking and nature, plan to spend at least a half-day here. Note: Be prepared for rain, mud, and mosquitoes.
45-680 Luluku Rd., Kaneohe. 808/233-7323. Free. Daily 9am–4pm. Guided nature hikes Sat 10am and Sun 1pm. Take H-1 to the Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61); turn left on Kamehameha Hwy. (Hwy. 83); at the 4th light, turn left onto Luluku Rd. Bus: 55 or 56 will stop on Kamehameha Hwy.; it’s a 2-mile walk to the visitor center.
Kualoa Ranch and Activity Club ACTIVITY PARK Kualoa Ranch does raise cattle, but people don’t come here to see the cows. They come for adventure packages covering numerous activities on its 4,000 acres. Options include horseback riding and ATV rides that take you through the locations where movies like Jurassic Park and Godzilla were filmed. Get your adrenaline going on the zipline course, which allows you to fly through the treetops at the ranch.
49-560 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaaawa. www.kualoa.com. 800/231-7321 or 808/237-7321. Reservations required. Various packages available; single activities $23–$95. Daily 8am–3:30pm. Take H-1 to the Likelike Hwy. (Hwy. 63), turn left at Kahekili Hwy. (Hwy. 83), and continue to Kaaawa. Bus: 55.
Polynesian Cultural Center THEME PARK This is the Disneyland version of Polynesia, operated by the Mormon Church. It’s a great show for families, informative and fun (the droll Samoan presentation amuses both adults and children). Here you can see the lifestyles, songs, dance, costumes, and architecture of six Pacific islands or archipelagos—Fiji, New Zealand, Samoa, Tahiti, Tonga, and Hawaii—in the re-created villages scattered throughout the 42-acre lagoon park. You won’t be able to see it all in a day, but a day is enough.
Native students from Polynesia who attend Hawaii’s Brigham Young University are the “inhabitants” of each village. They engage the audience with spear-throwing competitions, coconut tree–climbing presentations, and invitations to pound Tongan drums. One of my favorite shows is the canoe pageant, daily at 2:30pm; each island puts on a representation of their dance, music, and costume atop canoes in the lagoon.
Polynesian Cultural Center
Don’t miss Ha: Breath of Life, a coming-of-age story told through the different Polynesian dances, some full of grace, some fierce, and all thrilling. It’s one of Oahu’s better shows.
Just beyond the center is the Hawaii Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, built of volcanic rock and concrete in the form of a Greek cross; it includes reflecting pools, formal gardens, and royal palms. Completed in 1919, it was the first Mormon temple built outside the continental United States. An optional tour of the Temple Visitors Center, as well as neighboring Brigham Young University Hawaii, is included in the package admission price.
55-370 Kamehameha Hwy., Laie. www.polynesia.com. 800/367-7060 or 808/293-3333. Various packages available for $60–$220 adults, $48–$176 children 3–11. Mon–Sat noon–9pm. Take H-1 to Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61) and turn left on Kamehameha Hwy. (Hwy. 83). Bus: 55. Polynesian Cultural Center coach $22 round-trip; call numbers above to book.
Valley of the Temples HISTORIC SITE This famous cemetery in a cleft of the pali is stalked by wild peacocks and about 700 curious people a day, who pay to see the 9-foot meditation Buddha, acres of ponds full of more than 10,000 Japanese koi carp, and a replica of Japan’s 900-year-old Byodo-In Temple of Equality. The original, made of wood, stands in Uji, on the outskirts of Kyoto; the Hawaii version, made of concrete, was erected in 1968 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the arrival of the first Japanese immigrants to Hawaii. It’s not the same as seeing the original, but it’s worth a detour.
47-200 Kahekili Hwy. (across the street from Temple Valley Shopping Center), Kāne‘ohe. www.byodo-in.com. 808/239-8811. $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 11 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Take the H-1 to the Likelike Hwy. (Hwy. 63); after the Wilson Tunnel, get in the right lane and take the Kahekili Hwy. (Hwy. 63); at the 6th traffic light is the entrance to the cemetery (on the left). Bus: 65.
Central Oahu & the North Shore
If you can afford the splurge, rent a convertible—the perfect car for Oahu to enjoy the sun and soaring views—and head for the North Shore and Hawaii’s surf city: Haleiwa , a former sugar-plantation town and a designated historic site. Although in recent years, Haleiwa has been spruced up—even the half-century old, formerly dusty Matsumoto’s Shave Ice has new digs now—it still maintains a surfer/hippie vibe around the edges. For more, see “Surf City: Haleiwa,” p. 109.
Getting there is half the fun. You have two choices: The first is to meander north along the lush Windward Coast, following the coastline lined with roadside stands selling mangoes, bright tropical pareu, fresh corn, and pond-raised prawns. Attractions along that route are discussed in the previous section.
The second choice is to cruise up the H-2 through Oahu’s broad and fertile central valley, past Pearl Harbor and the Schofield Barracks of From Here to Eternity fame, and on through the red-earthed heart of the island, where pineapple and sugarcane fields stretch from the Koolau to the Waianae mountains, until the sea reappears on the horizon.
Once you’re on H-1, stay to the right side; the freeway tends to divide abruptly. Keep following the signs for the H-1 (it separates off to Hwy. 78 at the airport and reunites later on; either way will get you there), and then the H-1/H-2. Leave the H-1 where the two highways divide; take the H-2 up the middle of the island, heading north toward the town of Wahiawa. That’s what the sign will say—not North Shore or Haleiwa, but Wahiawa.
The H-2 runs out and becomes a two-lane country road about 18 miles outside downtown Honolulu, near Schofield Barracks. The highway becomes Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 99 and later Hwy. 83) at Wahiawa. Just past Wahiawa, about a half-hour out of Honolulu, the Dole Pineapple Plantation, 64-1550 Kamehameha Hwy. (www.doleplantation.com; 808/621-8408; daily 9:30am–5pm; bus: 52), offers a rest stop, with pineapples, pineapple history, pineapple trinkets, pineapple juice, and pineapple soft serve. This agricultural exhibit/retail area features a train ride and maze that kids will love to wander through; it’s open daily from 9:30am to 5pm (activities start at $6 adults, $5.25 children 4–12).
“Kam” Highway, as everyone calls it, will be your road for most of the rest of the trip to Haleiwa, on the North Shore.
Central Oahu Attractions
On the central plains of Oahu, tract homes and malls with factory-outlet stores are now spreading across abandoned sugarcane fields. Hawaiian chiefs once sent commoners into thick sandalwood forests to cut down trees, which were then sold to China traders for small fortunes.
Kukaniloko Birthing Stones HISTORIC SITE This is the most sacred site in central Oahu. Two rows of 18 lava rocks once flanked a central birthing stone, where women of ancient Hawaii gave birth to potential alii (royalty). The rocks, according to Hawaiian belief, held the power to ease the labor pains of childbirth. Birth rituals involved 48 chiefs who pounded drums to announce the arrival of newborns likely to become chiefs. Used by Oahu’s alii for generations of births, the pohaku (rocks), many in bowl-like shapes, now lie strewn in a grove of trees that stands in a pineapple field here. Some think the site may also have served ancient astronomers—like a Hawaiian Stonehenge. Petroglyphs of human forms and circles appear on some stones.
Off Kamehameha Hwy., btw. Wahiawa and Haleiwa, on Plantation Rd., opposite the road to Whitmore Village.
North Shore Attractions
Puu o Mahuka Heiau HISTORIC SITE Go around sundown to feel the mana (sacred spirit) of this Hawaiian place. The largest sacrificial temple on Oahu, it’s associated with the great Kaopulupulu, who sought peace between Oahu and Kauai. This prescient kahuna predicted that the island would be overrun by strangers from a distant land. In 1794, three of Capt. George Vancouver’s men of the Daedalus were sacrificed here. In 1819, the year before New England missionaries landed in Hawaii, King Kamehameha II ordered all idols here to be destroyed.
A national historic landmark, this 18th-century heiau, known as the “hill of escape,” sits on a 300-foot bluff overlooking Waimea Bay and 25 miles of Oahu’s wave-lashed north coast—all the way to Kaena Point, where the Waianae Range ends in a spirit leap to the other world. The heiau appears as a huge rectangle of rocks twice as big as a football field, with an altar often covered by the flower and fruit offerings left by native Hawaiians.
1 mile past Waimea Bay. Take Pupukea Rd. mauka (inland) off Kamehameha Hwy. at Foodland, and drive 1 mile up a switchback road. Bus: 52, then walk up Pupukea Rd.
Waimea Valley NATURAL ATTRACTION For nearly 3 decades, this 1,875-acre park has lured visitors with activities from cliff diving and hula performances to kayaking and ATV tours. In 2008, the Office of Hawaiian Affairs took over and formed a nonprofit corporation, Hiipaka, to run the park, with an emphasis on perpetuating and sharing the “living Hawaiian culture.” A visit here offers a lush walk into the past. The valley is packed with archaeological sites, including the 600-year-old Hale O Lono, a heiau dedicated to the Hawaiian god Lono, the god of peace, fertility, and agriculture. The botanical collection has 35 different gardens, including super-rare Hawaiian species such as the endangered Kokia cookei hibiscus. The valley is also home to fauna such as the endangered alae ula, or Hawaiian moorhen; look for a black bird with a red face cruising in the ponds. The 150-acre Arboretum and Botanical Garden contains more than 5,000 species of tropical plants. Walk through the gardens (take the paved paths or dirt trails) and wind up at 45-foot-high Waimea Falls—bring your bathing suit and you can dive into the cold, murky water. The public is invited to hike the trails and spend a day in this quiet oasis. Check the website for potential closings due to weather.
59-864 Kamehameha Hwy. www.waimeavalley.net. 808/638-7766. $16 adults, $12 seniors, $8 children 4–12. Daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 52.
The Waikiki Coast
Ala Moana Beach Park
Gold-sand Ala Moana (meaning “path to the sea” in Hawaiian) stretches for more than a mile along Honolulu’s coast between downtown and Waikiki. This 76-acre midtown beach park, with spreading lawns shaded by banyans and palms, is one of the island’s most popular playgrounds. It has a man-made beach, created in the 1930s by filling a coral reef with Wai‘anae Coast sand, as well as its own lagoon, yacht harbor, tennis courts, music pavilion, bathhouses, picnic tables, and enough wide-open green spaces to accommodate 4 million visitors a year. The water is calm almost year-round, protected by black-lava rocks set offshore. There’s a large parking lot as well as metered street parking.
Waikiki Beach
No beach anywhere is so widely known or so universally sought after as this narrow, 1½-mile-long crescent of imported sand (from Molokai) at the foot of a string of high-rise hotels. Waikiki attracts nearly 5 million visitors a year from every corner of the planet. First-timers are amazed to discover how small Waikiki Beach really is, but there’s always a place for them under the tropical sun here.
Waikiki is actually a string of beaches that extends between Sans Souci State Recreational Area, near Diamond Head to the east, and Duke Kahanamoku Beach, in front of the Hilton Hawaiian Village to the west.
Waikiki is fabulous for swimming, board surfing, bodysurfing, outrigger canoeing, diving, sailing, snorkeling, and pole fishing. Every imaginable type of watersports equipment is available for rent here. Facilities include showers, lifeguards, restrooms, grills, picnic tables, and pavilions at the Queen’s Surf end of the beach (at Kapiolani Park, btw. the zoo and the aquarium). The best place to park is at Kapiolani Park, near Sans Souci.
East Oahu
Hanauma Bay
Oahu’s most popular snorkeling spot is this volcanic crater with a broken sea wall; its small, curved, 2,000-foot gold-sand beach is packed elbow-to-elbow with people year-round. The bay’s shallow shoreline water and abundant marine life are the main attractions, but this good-looking beach is also popular for sunbathing and people-watching. Serious divers shoot “the slot” (a passage through the reef) to get to Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove, and then brave strong currents in 70-foot depths at the bay mouth to see coral gardens, turtles, and even sharks. (Divers: Beware of the Molokai Express, a strong current.) You can snorkel in the safe, shallow (10-ft.) inner bay, which, along with the beach, is almost always crowded. Because Hanauma Bay is a conservation district, you cannot touch or remove any marine life here. Feeding the fish is also prohibited.
Facilities include parking, restrooms, a pavilion, a grass volleyball court, lifeguards, barbecues, picnic tables, and food concessions. Alcohol is prohibited in the park; there is no smoking past the visitor center. Expect to pay $1 per vehicle to park plus an entrance fee of $7.50 per person (free for children 12 and under and Hawaii residents).
If you’re driving, take Kalanianaole Highway to Koko Head Regional Park. Avoid the crowds by going early, about 7am, on a weekday morning; once the parking lot’s full, you’re out of luck. Alternatively, take TheBus to escape the parking problem: The Hanauma Bay Shuttle runs from Waikiki to Hanauma Bay every half-hour from 8:45am to 1pm; you can catch it at the Ala Moana Hotel, the Ilikai Hotel, or other city bus stops. It returns every hour from noon to 4pm. For information, call 808/396-4229. Hanauma Bay is closed every Tuesday so that the fish can have a day off, but it’s open all other days from 6am to 7pm in the summer and 6am to 6pm in the winter.
Sandy Beach
Sandy Beach is one of the best bodysurfing beaches on Oahu; it’s also one of the most dangerous. It’s better to just stand and watch the daredevils literally risk their necks at this 1,200-foot-long gold-sand beach, which is pounded by wild waves and haunted by a dangerous shore break and strong backwash. Weak swimmers and children should definitely stay out of the water here. Lifeguards post flags to alert beachgoers to the day’s surf: Green means safe, yellow means caution, and red indicates very dangerous water conditions.
Facilities include restrooms and parking. Go weekdays to avoid the crowds or weekends to catch the bodysurfers in action. From Waikiki, drive east on the H-1, which becomes Kalanianaole Highway; proceed past Hawaii Kai, up the hill to Hanauma Bay, past the Halona Blowhole, and along the coast. The next big gold beach on the right is Sandy Beach. TheBus no. 22 will also bring you here.
Makapuu Beach Park
Makapuu Beach is a beautiful 1,000-foot-long gold-sand beach cupped in the stark black Koolau cliffs on Oahu’s easternmost point. Even if you never venture into the water, it’s worth a visit just to enjoy the great natural beauty of this classic Hawaiian beach. (You’ve probably already seen it in countless TV shows, from Hawaii Five-O to Magnum, P.I.) In summer, the ocean here is as gentle as a Jacuzzi, and swimming and diving are perfect; come winter, however, and Makapu'u is a hit with expert bodysurfers, who come for the big, pounding waves that are too dangerous for most regular swimmers.
Facilities include restrooms, lifeguards, barbecue grills, picnic tables, and parking. To get here, follow Kalaniana'ole Highway toward Waimānalo, or take TheBus no. 22 or 23.
The Windward Coast
Lanikai Beach
One of Hawaii’s best spots for swimming, gold-sand Lanikai’s crystal-clear lagoon is like a giant saltwater swimming pool that you’re lucky enough to be able to share with the resident tropical fish and sea turtles. Almost too gorgeous to be real, this is one of Hawaii’s postcard-perfect beaches: It’s a mile long and thin in places, but the sand’s as soft as talcum powder. Kayakers often paddle out to the two tiny offshore Mokulua islands, which are seabird sanctuaries. Unfortunately, the secret’s out about Lanikai, and the small beach is starting to feel more crowded every year; get here early to try to grab a space on the sand. Another reason to come in the morning: The Koolau Range tends to block the afternoon sun. Or for a rare, magical moment, come to watch the full moon rise over the water.
There are no facilities here, just off-street parking. From Waikiki, take the H-1 to the Pali Highway (Hwy. 61) through the Nuunau Pali Tunnel to Kailua, where the Pali Highway becomes Kailua Road as it proceeds through town. At Kalaheo Avenue, turn right and follow the coast about 2 miles to Kailua Beach Park; just past it, turn left at the T intersection and drive uphill on Aalapapa Drive, a one-way street that loops back as Mokulua Drive. Park on Mokulua Drive and walk down any of the eight public-access lanes to the shore. Or take TheBus no. 57A or 57 (Kailua), and then transfer to the no. 70 bus.
Kailua Beach
Windward Oahu’s premier beach is a wide, 2-mile-long golden strand with dunes, palm trees, panoramic views, and offshore islets that are home to seabirds. The swimming is excellent, and the azure waters are usually decorated with bright sails; this is Oahu’s premier windsurfing beach as well. It’s a favorite spot to sail catamarans, bodysurf the gentle waves, or paddle a kayak. Water conditions are quite safe, especially at the mouth of Ka'elepulu Stream, where toddlers play in the freshwater shallows at the middle of the beach park. The water is usually about 78°F (26°C), the views are spectacular, and the setting, at the foot of the sheer green Ko'olau Range, is idyllic. It’s gotten so crowded over the years that the city council banned all commercial activity on the beach, which has led to a decrease in kayak traffic jams both on the beach and in the water. These days you can usually find a less-occupied stretch of sand the farther you are from the beach park.
Only 28 miles from Waikiki is Haleiwa , the funky former sugar-plantation town that’s now the world capital of big-wave surfing. Haleiwa comes alive in winter, when the waves rise; then, it seems, every surfer in the world is here to see and be seen.
Officially designated a historic cultural and scenic district, this beach town was founded by sugar baron Benjamin Dillingham, who built a 30-mile railroad to link his Honolulu and North Shore plantations in 1899. He opened a Victorian hotel overlooking Kaiaka Bay and named it Haleiwa, or “house of the 'iwa,” the tropical seabird often seen here. The hotel and railroad are gone, but the town of Haleiwa, which was rediscovered in the late 1960s by hippies, manages to hold onto some of its rustic charm. Of course, like other places on Oahu, that is changing; some of the older wooden storefronts are being redeveloped and local chains such as T&C Surf are moving in. Arts and crafts, boutiques, and burger joints line both sides of the town. There’s also a busy fishing harbor full of charter boats and captains who hunt the Kauai Channel daily for tuna, mahimahi, and marlin.
Just down the road are the fabled shrines of surfing—Waimea Beach, Banzai Pipeline, Sunset Beach—where some of the world’s largest waves, reaching 20 feet and higher, rise up between November and January. November to December is the holding period for Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (http://vanstriplecrownofsurfing.com), one of the world’s premier surf competition series, when professional surfers from around the world descend on the 7-mile miracle of waves. Hang around Haleiwa and the North Shore and you’re bound to run into a few of the pros. Battle the traffic to come up on competition days (it seems like everyone ditches work and heads north on these days): It’s one of Oahu’s best shows. For details on North Shore beaches, see p. 111.
Facilities at the beach park include picnic tables, barbecues, restrooms, a volleyball court, a public boat ramp, and free parking. To get here, take Pali Highway (Hwy. 61) to Kailua, drive through town, turn right on Kalaheo Avenue, and go a mile until you see the beach on your left. Or take TheBus no. 57A or 57 into Kailua.
Waimanalo Beach
At almost 6 miles long, this is O'ahu’s longest beach and a favorite among locals. Depending on the swell, the water can be a little rougher than at Kailua, making it fun for bodysurfing and boogie boarding. The wide, sandy beach is backed by ironwood trees, which provide shade if you tire of the sun. On weekdays, it will feel like you have the whole place to yourself; on weekends, locals bring out the grills, tents, and fishing poles. Note: Make sure your valuables are hidden in your car; break-ins have occurred in the parking lot.
Facilities include restrooms, picnic tables, outdoor showers, and parking. Waimanalo Beach has a different few points of entry—my pick would be the Waimanalo Bay Recreation Area. To get there, follow Kalanianaole Highway toward Waimanalo and turn right at the Waimanalo Bay sign, or take TheBus no. 57.
Kualoa Regional Park
This 150-acre coco-palm-fringed peninsula is located on Kaneohe Bay’s north shore at the foot of the spiky Koolau Ridge. The park has a broad, grassy lawn and a long, narrow, white-sand beach ideal for swimming, walking, beachcombing, kite-flying, or just enjoying the natural beauty of this once-sacred Hawaiian shore, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The waters are shallow and safe for swimming year-round. Offshore is Mokolii, the picturesque islet otherwise known as Chinaman’s Hat. You can swim or wade out to the island (during low tide only) or kayak. A small sandy beach can be found on the backside, and it takes less than half an hour to reach the top of this tiny island.
Facilities at both sites include restrooms, outdoor showers, picnic tables, and drinking fountains. To get to the park, take the Likelike Highway (Hwy. 63); after the Wilson Tunnel, get in the right lane and turn off on Kahakili Highway (Hwy. 83). Or take TheBus no. 55.
The North Shore
Waimea Beach Park
This deep, sandy bowl has gentle summer waves that are excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing. To one side of the bay is a huge rock that local kids like to climb and dive from. In this placid scene, the only clues of what’s to come in winter are those evacuation whistles on poles beside the road. But what a difference a season makes: Winter waves pound the narrow bay, sometimes rising to 50 feet high. When the surf’s really up, very strong currents and shore breaks sweep the bay—and it seems like everyone on Oahu drives out to Waimea to get a look at the monster waves and those who ride them. Weekends are great for watching the surfers; to avoid the crowds, go on weekdays.
Facilities include lifeguards, restrooms, showers, parking, and nearby restaurants and shops in Haleiwa town. The beach is located on Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83); from Waikiki, take TheBus no. 52.
Leeward Oahu: The Waianae Coast
Makaha Beach Park
When the surf’s up here, it’s spectacular: Monstrous waves pound the beach. Nearly a mile long, this half-moon, gold-sand beach is tucked between 231-foot Lahilahi Point, which locals call Black Rock, and Kepuhi Point, a toe of the Waianae mountain range. Summer is the best time to hit this beach—the waves are small, the sand abundant, and the water safe for swimming. Children hug the shore on the north side of the beach, near the lifeguard stand, while divers seek an offshore channel full of big fish.
Facilities include restrooms, lifeguards, and parking. To get here, take the H-1 freeway to the end of the line, where it becomes Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93), and follow it to the beach; or take TheBus no. C.
Yokohama Bay
Where Farrington Highway (Hwy. 93) ends, the wilderness of Kaena Point State Park begins. It’s a remote 853-acre coastline park of empty beaches, sand dunes, cliffs, and deep-blue water. This is the last sandy stretch of shore on the northwest coast of Oahu. Sometimes it’s known as Keawaula Beach, but everybody here calls it Yokohama, after the Japanese immigrants who came from that port city to work the cane fields and fished along this shoreline. When the surf’s calm—mainly in summer—this is a good area for snorkeling, diving, swimming, shore fishing, and picnicking. There are no lifeguards or facilities, except at the park entrance, where there’s a restroom and lifeguard stand. There’s no bus service either.
Boating
One of the best things about Hawaii? The ocean. There are a million ways to enjoy it, but to get far from the shore and see the incredible beauty of the sea, hop on a boat.
Holokai Catamaran One of the most fun and effortless ways to get in the water is a sail off of Waikiki. Many catamarans launch from Waikiki, but this is our favorite of the “booze cruises.” It’s the least crowded and rowdy, and the drink selection is the best, with multiple Maui Brewing Co. brews and a decent island cocktail. The Sunset Sail is the most popular and festive, with an open bar, while the Tradewind Sail, which pushes off in the afternoon, is more mellow. The most romantic? The Fireworks Sail, which seemingly takes you right under the weekly Friday-night fireworks show.
Gray’s Beach in front of the Halekulani. www.sailholokai.com. 808/922-2210. All cruises 1½ hr. Tradewind Sail $35 adults, $25 children. Fireworks Sail $50 adults and children. Sunset Sail $55 adults; $45 children. Bus: 19 or 20.
Wild Side Tours Picture this: You’re floating in the calm waters off the Waianae coast, where your 42-foot sailing catamaran has just dropped you off. Below, in the reef, are turtles, and suddenly in the distance, you see spinner dolphins. This happens almost every day on the 4-hour tours (departing at 8am; check-in 7:30am) operated by the Cullins family, who have swum in these waters for decades. In winter, you may spot humpback whales on the morning cruise, which includes lunch, snorkel gear, instruction, and a flotation device. The other thing that sets this company apart is its small group sizes, limited to 6 on the Best of the West tour, and 10 on the Deluxe Wildlife Charter.
Waianae Boat Harbor, 85-471 Farrington Hwy., Waianae. www.sailhawaii.com. 808/306-7273. Best of the West $195 for age 12 and up (not recommended for younger children). Deluxe Wildlife Charter $175 adults; $145 children. Bus: C.
Bodyboarding (Boogie Boarding) & Bodysurfing
Good places to learn to bodyboard are in the small waves of Waikiki Beach , Kailua Beach , Waimanalo Beach (reviewed under “Beaches,” earlier in this chapter), and Bellows Field Beach Park, off Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72) in Waimanalo, which is open to the public on weekends (from noon Fri to midnight Sun and holidays). To get here, turn toward the ocean on Hughes Road, and then right on Tinker Road, which takes you to the park.
See the introduction to this section for a list of rental shops where you can get a boogie board.
Ocean Kayaking/Stand-Up Paddling
Revel in amazing views both above and below the water on the Windward Coast with Holokai Kayak and Snorkel Adventures , 46-465 Kamehameha Hwy., Kaneohe, at Heeia State Park (www.holokaiadventures.com; 808/781-4773). Sign up for a 4-hour guided tour and you’ll see the majestic Koolau Range from your kayak. Then, as you head to Coconut Island (aka Gilligan’s Island), you’ll stop to snorkel and admire the fish and turtles in the almost-always calm Kaneohe Bay. Or, you can go at your own pace with the self-guided kayak or stand-up paddleboard option—they’ll point you in the direction of the disappearing sandbar Ahu o Laka, as well as the good snorkel spots. What’s even better? Proceeds go to Kamaaina Kids (which runs environmental education programs for children) and improving He‘eia State Park.
Bodyboarding at Waikiki Beach
For a wonderful adventure, rent a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard (SUP), arrive at Lanikai Beach just as the sun is appearing, and paddle across the channel to the pyramid-shaped islands called Mokulua, or the Mokes, as locals call them—it’s an unforgettable experience. On the windward side, check out Kailua Sailboards & Kayaks, 130 Kailua Rd., a block from Kailua Beach Park (www.kailuasailboards.com; 808/262-2555), where single kayaks and SUP boards rent for $59 for a half-day and double kayaks are $69 for a half-day. Note that paddling to the Mokulua Islands is not allowed on Sundays.
If you’re staying on the North Shore, go to Surf-N-Sea, 62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa (www.surfnsea.com; 800/899-7873), where kayak rentals start at $10 per hour and go to $60 for a full day. During the summer months, you can start in Haleiwa and kayak to Waimea Bay. SUP rentals start at $20 per hour and go to $60 for a full day. You can paddle in the bay behind the shop or in Anahula Stream, passing under the iconic Rainbow Bridge.
Scuba Diving
Oahu is a wonderful place to scuba dive, especially for those interested in wreck diving. One of the more famous wrecks in Hawaii is the Mahi, a 185-foot former minesweeper easily accessible just south of Waianae. Abundant marine life makes this a great place to shoot photos—schools of lemon butterfly fish and taape (blue-lined snapper) are so comfortable with divers and photographers that they practically pose. Eagle rays, green sea turtles, manta rays, and white-tipped sharks occasionally cruise by as well, and eels peer out from the wreck.
For non-wreck diving, one of the best dive spots in summer is Kahuna Canyon. In Hawaiian, kahuna means priest, wise man, or sorcerer; this massive amphitheater, located near Mokuleia, is a perfect example of something a sorcerer might conjure up. Walls rising from the ocean floor create the illusion of an underwater Grand Canyon. Inside the amphitheater, crabs, octopuses, slippers, and spiny lobsters abound (be aware that taking them in summer is illegal), and giant trevally, parrotfish, and unicorn fish congregate as well. Outside the amphitheater, you’re likely to see an occasional shark in the distance.
Because Oahu’s greatest dives are offshore, your best bet is to book a two-tank dive from a dive boat. Living Ocean Scuba , 1125 Ala Moana Blvd. (www.livingoceanscuba.com; 808/436-3438), offers dives for both first-time and certified divers. Living Ocean takes divers to south shore sites such as the Sea Tiger, a former Chinese trading vessel that was confiscated for carrying illegal immigrants to Hawaii, and later sunk in 1999 to create a dive site. Divers can penetrate the wreck, which also teems with marine life: whitetip reef sharks, turtles, eagle rays, and plenty of fish. The two-tank boat dives start at $100 per person. While Living Ocean dives primarily from the south shore, they can also help set up dive trips on other sides of the island.
Experiencing jaws: Swim with the Sharks
Ocean Ramsey and her crew at One Ocean Diving (www.oneoceandiving.com; text: 808/649-0018) are on a first-name basis with some of the sharks they swim with. That’s right, swim with, cage free. And you can, too, with little more than a snorkel, mask, and fins on your feet (this is a snorkeling trip, not scuba diving). As you ride the boat out, about 3 miles offshore from Hale‘iwa, where sharks are known to congregate, the crew educates you about shark behavior. For one, they’re really not that interested in humans. Two, most of the sharks you’ll see are sandbar and Galapagos sharks, which are not considered dangerous. And three, if you should see a potentially more threatening shark, such as a tiger shark, they teach you how to conjure your alpha shark: Stay at the top of ocean, and don’t turn your back on them. Your guides are always alert and nearby; only three people are allowed in the water at a time. Once I got used to the sight of the sharks around me, I began to admire their beauty and grace. One Ocean Diving hopes to change misconceptions about sharks and bring awareness to their plight as their numbers dwindle. A dive with them is as educational as it is exciting. Rates are $150 a person, and a snorkel mask and fins are provided; must be 4 feet or taller to enter the water.
Snorkeling
Some of the best snorkeling in Oahu is at Hanauma Bay . It’s crowded—sometimes it seems there are more people than fish—but Hanauma has clear, warm, protected waters and an abundance of friendly reef fish, including Moorish idols, scores of butterfly fish, damselfish, and wrasses. Hanauma Bay has two reefs, an inner and an outer—the first for novices, the other for experts. The inner reef is calm and shallow (less than 10 ft.); in some places, you can just wade and put your face in the water. Go early: It’s packed by 10am. And it’s closed on Tuesdays. For details, see “Beaches,” earlier in this chapter.
On the North Shore, head to Shark’s Cove , just off Kamehameha Highway, between Haleiwa and Pupukea. In the summer, this big, lava-edged pool is one of Oahu’s best snorkel spots. Waves splash over the natural lava grotto and cascade like waterfalls into the pool full of tropical fish. To the right of the cove are deep-sea caves and underwater tunnels to explore.
If you want to rent snorkel equipment, check out Snorkel Bob’s on the way to Hanauma Bay at 700 Kapahulu Ave. (at Date St.), Honolulu (www.snorkelbob.com; 808/735-7944).
Sport Fishing
Kewalo Basin, located between the Honolulu International Airport and Waikiki, is the main location for charter fishing boats on Oahu. From Waikiki, take Kalakaua Avenue Ewa (west) beyond Ala Moana Center; Kewalo Basin is on the left, across from Ward Centers. Look for charter boats all in a row in their slips; when the fish are biting, the captains display the catch of the day in the afternoon. You can also take TheBus no. 19 or 20 (Airport).
The best sport-fishing booking desk in the state is Sportfish Hawaii (www.sportfishhawaii.com; 877/388-1376 or 808/396-2607), which books boats on all the islands. These fishing vessels have been inspected and must meet rigorous criteria to guarantee that you will have a great time. Prices range from $875 to $1,399 for a full-day exclusive charter (you, plus five friends, get the entire boat to yourself), from $650 for a half-day exclusive, or from $220 for a full-day shared charter (you share the boat with five other people).
In summer, when the water’s warm and there’s a soft breeze in the air, the south swell comes up. It’s surf season in Waikiki, the best place on Oahu to learn how to surf. For lessons, find Hans Hedemann Surf School (www.hhsurf.com; 808/924-7778) at the Park Shore Waikiki (and, if you’re on the North Shore, there’s also an outpost at Turtle Bay Resort). Hedemann, a champion surfer for some 34 years, gives private lessons—at $400 for a 3-hour session. (He has taught celebrities such as Cameron Diaz and Adam Sandler.) If the expenditure is beyond your budget, go for a $75 2-hour group lesson (4-person max) taught by other friendly instructors.
Surfboards are also available for rent on the North Shore at Surf-N-Sea, 62-595 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa (www.surfnsea.com; 800/899-7873), for $5 to $7 an hour. Lessons go for $85 for 2 to 3 hours.
More experienced surfers should drop into any surf shop around Oahu, or call the Surf News Network Surfline ( 808/596-SURF) to get the latest surf conditions. The breaks at the base of Diamond Head are popular among intermediate to expert surfers.
If you’re in Hawaii in winter and want to see the serious surfers catch the really big waves, bring your binoculars and grab a front-row seat on the beach at Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach, or Pipeline.
People are often surprised to discover that the great outdoors is often minutes from downtown Honolulu. The island’s major hiking trails traverse razor-thin ridgebacks, deep waterfall valleys, and more. The best source of hiking information on Oahu is the state’s Na Ala Hele (Trails to Go On) Program (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/973-9782). The website has everything you need: detailed maps and descriptions of 40 trails in the Na Ala Hele program, a hiking safety brochure, updates on the trails, hyperlinks to weather information, health warnings, info on native plants or how to volunteer for trail upkeep, and more.
Honolulu-Area Hikes
Diamond Head Crater
This is a moderate but steep walk to the summit of Hawaii’s most famous landmark. Kids love to look out from the top of the 760-foot volcanic cone, where they have 360-degree views of Oahu up the leeward coast from Waikiki. The 1.5-mile round-trip takes about 1½ hours, and the entry fee is $5 per car load; if you walk in, it’s $1 per person.
Diamond Head was created by a volcanic explosion about half a million years ago. The Hawaiians called the crater Leahi (meaning “the brow of the 'ahi,” or tuna, referring to the shape of the crater). Diamond Head was considered a sacred spot; King Kamehameha offered human sacrifices at a heiau (temple) on the western slope. It wasn’t until the 19th century that Mount Leahi got its current name: A group of sailors found what they thought were diamonds in the crater; it turned out they were just worthless calcite crystals, but the name stuck.
Before you begin your journey to the top of the crater, put on some decent shoes (rubber-soled tennies are fine) and don’t forget water (very important), a hat to protect you from the sun, and a camera. You might want to put all your gear in a pack to leave your hands free for the climb.
Go early, preferably just after the 6am opening, before the midday sun starts beating down. The hike to the summit starts at Monsarrat and 18th avenues on the crater’s inland (or mauka) side. To get here, take TheBus no. 58 from the Ala Moana Center or drive to the intersection of Diamond Head Road and 18th Avenue. Follow the road through the tunnel (which is closed 6pm–6am) and park in the lot. From the trailhead in the parking lot, you’ll proceed along a paved walkway (with handrails) as you climb up the slope. You’ll pass old World War I and World War II pillboxes, gun emplacements, and tunnels built as part of the Pacific defense network. Several steps take you up to the top observation post on Point Leahi. The views are incredible.
Manoa Falls Trail
This easy .75-mile (one-way) hike is terrific for families; it takes less than an hour to reach idyllic Manoa Falls. The trailhead, marked by a footbridge, is at the end of Manoa Road, past Lyon Arboretum. The staff at the arboretum prefers that hikers not park in their lot, so the best place to park is in the residential area below Paradise Park; you can also get to the arboretum via TheBus no. 5. The often-muddy trail follows Waihi Stream and meanders through the forest reserve past guavas, mountain apples, and wild ginger. The forest is moist and humid and inhabited by giant bloodthirsty mosquitoes, so bring repellent. If it has rained recently, stay on the trail and step carefully because it can be very slippery (and it’s a long way down if you slide off the side).
East Oahu Hikes
Koko Crater Railway Trail
If you’re looking for quiet, you’ll want to find another trail. This is less a hike than a strenuous workout, and it’s popular among fitness buffs who climb it daily, people trying to stick to New Year’s resolutions to be more active, and triathletes in training. But first-timers and tourists also tackle the 1,048 stairs along the railway track—once part of a World War II–era tram system—for the panoramic views from the Windward Coast to Waikiki. It’s a tough hike, but you’ll have lots of friendly company along the way, and the view from the top is worth it. As they say, no pain, no gain. It’s unshaded the whole way, so try to go early in the morning or in the late afternoon to catch the sunset, and bring plenty of water.
To get to the trailhead from Waikiki take Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72) to Hawaii Kai, turn left at Lunalilo Home Road, and then follow Anapalau Street to the trailhead parking lot; you can also take TheBus no. 22 or 23.
Kuliouou Ridge Trail
One of Honolulu’s best ridge trails, this moderate 2.5-mile hike (each way) starts in the middle of a residential neighborhood, then ascends through ironwood and pine trees, and drops you in the middle of a native Hawaiian forest. Here, ohia lehua, with its distinctive red pom-pom–like flowers grow. Hawaiian legend has it that Ohia and Lehua were lovers. Pele fell in love with Ohia, but when he rejected her advances, she turned him into a tree. The gods took pity on the heartbroken Lehua and turned her into a flower on the tree. According to the story, if you pick a flower from the ohia lehua, it will rain, representing the separated lovers’ tears. So avoid picking the flowers, if only to assure clear views at the top of the summit—on a good day, you can see all the way to Waimanalo.
To get there from Waikiki, take Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72) and turn left on Kuliouou Road. Turn right on Kalaau Place and look for street parking. You’ll find the trailhead at the end of the road. No bus service is available.
Makapuu Lighthouse Trail
You’ve seen this famous old lighthouse on episodes of Magnum, P.I. and Hawaii Five-O. No longer staffed by the Coast Guard (it’s fully automated now), the lighthouse sits at the end of a precipitous cliff trail on an airy perch over the Windward Coast, Manana (Rabbit) Island, and the azure Pacific. It’s about a 45-minute, 1-mile hike from Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72), along a paved road that begins across from Hawaii Kai Executive Golf Course and winds around the 646-foot-high sea bluff to the lighthouse lookout.
The view of the ocean all the way to Molokai and Lanai is often so clear that, from November to March, if you’re lucky, you’ll see migrating humpback whales.
To get to the trailhead from Waikiki, take Kalanianaole Highway (Hwy. 72) past Hanauma Bay and Sandy Beach to Makapu'u Head, the southeastern tip of the island; you can also take TheBus no. 22 or 23.
Blowhole alert: When the south swell is running, usually in summer, a couple of blowholes on the south side of Makapuu Head put the famous Hālona Blowhole to shame.
Windward Coast Hikes
Pali (Maunawili) Trail
For a million-dollar view of the Windward Coast, take this 11-mile (one-way) foothill trail. The trailhead is about 6 miles from downtown Honolulu, on the windward side of the Nu'unau Pali Tunnel, at the scenic lookout just beyond the hairpin turn of the Pali Highway (Hwy. 61). Just as you begin the turn, look for the scenic overlook sign, slow down, and pull off the highway into the parking lot (sorry, no bus service available).
The mostly flat, well-marked, easy-to-moderate trail goes through the forest on the lower slopes of the 3,000-foot Koolau mountain range and ends up in the backyard of the coastal Hawaiian village of Waimanalo. Go halfway to get the view and then return to your car, or have someone meet you in ’Nalo.
To Land’s End: A Leeward Oahu Hike
Kaena Point
At the very western tip of Oahu lie the dry, barren lands of Kaena Point State Park, 853 acres of jagged sea cliffs, deep gulches, sand dunes, endangered plant life, and a remote, wild, wind- and surf-battered coastline. Kaena means “red hot” or “glowing” in Hawaiian; the name refers to the brilliant sunsets visible from the point.
Kaena is steeped in numerous legends. A popular one concerns the demigod Maui: Maui had a famous hook that he used to raise islands from the sea. He decided that he wanted to bring the islands of Oahu and Kauai closer together, so one day he threw his hook across the Kauai Channel and snagged Kauai (which is actually visible from Kaena Point on clear days). Using all his might, Maui was able to pull loose a huge boulder, which fell into the waters very close to the present lighthouse at Kaena. The rock is still called Pohaku o Kauai (the Rock from Kaua'i). Like Black Rock in Kaanapali on Maui, Kaena is thought of as the point on Oahu from which souls depart.
To hike out to this departing place, take the clearly marked trail from the parking lot of Kaena Point State Park. The moderate 5-mile round-trip hike to the point will take a couple of hours. The trail along the cliff passes tide pools abundant in marine life and rugged protrusions of lava reaching out to the turbulent sea; seabirds circle overhead. Do not go off the trail; you might step on buried birds’ eggs. There are no sandy beaches, and the water is nearly always turbulent here. In winter, when a big north swell is running, the waves at Ka'ena are the biggest in the state, averaging heights of 30 to 40 feet. Even when the water appears calm, offshore currents are powerful, so don’t plan on taking a swim. Go early in the morning to see the schools of porpoises that frequent the area just offshore.
To get to the trailhead from Honolulu or Waikiki, take the H-1 west to its end; continue on Hwy. 93 past Mākaha and follow Hwy. 930 to the end of the road. There is no bus service.
Biking
Oahu is not particularly bike-friendly, as drivers still need to learn to share the road. But that may be changing with the installation of new bike lanes and the 2017 introduction of Biki (www.gobiki.org), Honolulu’s bikeshare program. At press time, 1,000 bikes had been placed at 100 docking stations throughout metro Honolulu. Modeled after other systems in cities such as Paris and New York, you can purchase single ride passes ($3.50 for 30 minutes) or monthly passes ($15 for unlimited 30-minute rides or $25 for unlimited 60-minute rides). Biki makes short trips, such as from your hotel to the beach, or Waikiki to Chinatown, a breeze.
For a bike-and-hike adventure, contact Bike Hawaii (www.bikehawaii.com; 877/682-7433 or 808/734-4214), which has a variety of group tours, such as mountain biking in Kualoa. This guided mountain-bike tour follows dirt roads and a single track meandering through the 1,000-acre Kaaawa Valley on Oahu’s northeast shore, with stops at a reconstructed Hawaiian hale (house) and kalo loi (taro terrace) for some cultural narrative, plus an old military bunker that has been converted into a movie museum for films shot here (Jurassic Park, Godzilla, Mighty Joe Young, Windtalkers, and more). The 6-mile trip, which takes 2 to 3 hours of riding, includes van transportation from your hotel, a bike, helmet, snacks, picnic lunch, water bottle, and guide; it’s $130 for adults and $77 for children 14 and under. Want to see views from mauka (mountain) to makai (sea)? Then sign up for the Rainforest to Reef tour (8½ hours; $170 adults, $110 kids 14 and under) in which you hike in a tropical rainforest to a waterfall, drive up Mount Tantalus and cruise down on bikes, and, finally, set sail on a catamaran in Waikiki to snorkel and soak up the sun.
Golf
Oahu has nearly 3 dozen golf courses, ranging from bare-bones municipal courses to exclusive country-club courses with membership fees running to six figures a year. Below are the best of a great bunch.
As you get to know Oahu’s courses, you’ll see that the windward courses play much differently than the leeward courses. On the windward side, the prevailing winds blow from the ocean to shore, and the grain direction of the greens tends to run the same way—from the ocean to the mountains. Leeward golf courses have the opposite tendency: The winds usually blow from the mountains to the ocean, with the grain direction of the greens corresponding.
Tee-Time Discounts |
For last-minute and discounted tee times, call Stand-by Golf (www.hawaiistandbygolf.com; 
888/645-BOOK [2665]), which offers discounted tee times for same- or next-day golfing. Call between 7am and 10pm for a guaranteed tee time with up to a 30% discount on greens fees.
Tips on beating the crowds and saving money: Oahu’s golf courses tend to be crowded, so I suggest that you go midweek, if you can. Also, most island courses have twilight rates that offer substantial discounts if you’re willing to tee off in the afternoon; these are included in the listings below, where applicable.
Transportation note: TheBus does not allow golf-club bags onboard, so if you want to use TheBus to get to a course, you’re going to have to rent clubs there.
Waikiki
Ala Wai Municipal Golf Course This is Oahu’s most popular municipal course. Translation: it gets really crowded; some 500 rounds a day are played on this 18-hole course. But it’s the closest course, and within walking distance, to Waikiki’s hotels. It’s something of a challenge to get a tee time at this busy par-70, 6,020-yard course, and the computerized tee reservations system for all of Oahu’s municipal courses will allow you to book only 3 days in advance, but keep trying. Ala Wai has a flat layout bordered by the Ala Wai Canal on one side and the Mānoa-Pālolo Stream on the other. It’s less windy than most Oahu courses, but pay attention to the 372-yard, par-4 1st hole, which demands a straight and long shot to the very tiny green. If you miss, you can make it up on the 478-yard, par-5 10th hole—the green is reachable in two, so with a two-putt, a birdie is within reach.
404 Kapahulu Ave., Waikiki. www.co.honolulu.hi.us/des/golf/alawai.htm. 808/733-7387 for golf course, or 808/296-2000 for tee-time reservations. Greens fees $55; twilight rates $28; cart $20. From Waikiki, turn left on Kapahulu Ave.; the course is on the mauka side of Ala Wai Canal. Bus: 19, 20, or 13.
Koolau Golf Club This is a spectacularly beautiful golf course, carved out of the tropical rainforest nestled against the Ko‘olau mountain range. It’s also spectacularly difficult—narrow and winding, with extreme changes in elevation. Legend has it that when Koolau Golf Club first opened, it was so difficult that it was given a slope rating of 162 . . . where the maximum slope rating is 155. The official rating has dropped to a still formidable 152 from the back tees. The windward side’s wet conditions don’t make it any easier (and now you know why this side is so green and lush). But when things get frustrating, just take a breath, look up at the mountains, and marvel at the beauty that surrounds you. Facilities include a pro shop, driving range, putting and chipping greens, and restaurant.
45-550 Kionaole Rd., Kaneohe. www.koolaugolfclub.com. 808/236-4653. Greens fees $145; twilight fees $110. Take H-1 to the Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61); turn left on Hwy. 83, turn left for Kahiko St., take another left onto Kahiko St., and then turn right on Kiona‘ole Rd.; the golf club will be on the right. No bus service.
Royal Hawaiian Golf Club Here’s another gorgeous course, often referred to as the Jurassic Park of golf courses, so named for both the breathtaking scenery and because it’s not for the faint-hearted. Designed by Perry and Pete Dye, the club has since been redeveloped by hall-of-fame golfer Greg Norman. Switchback trails lead you up to wide vistas that help take the sting out of losing so many balls. Facilities include a pro shop, driving range, putting and chipping greens, and a snack bar.
770 Auloa Rd., Kailua. www.royalhawaiiangc.com. 808/262-2139. Greens fees $160; twilight fees $115. Take H-1 to the Pali Hwy. (Hwy. 61); turn right onto Auloa Rd. Bus: 89.
The North Shore
Kahuku Golf Course This 9-hole budget golf course is a bit funky. Don’t expect a clubhouse: there’s only a dilapidated shack where you check in and minimal facilities consisting of golf club rentals, a few pull carts, and two Porta-Potties. But a round at this scenic oceanside course amid the tranquility of the North Shore is quite an experience nonetheless. Duffers will love the ease of this recreational course, and weight watchers will be happy to walk the gently sloping greens. Don’t forget to bring your camera for the views. No reservations are taken and tee times are offered first-come, first-served. With plenty of retirees happy to sit and wait, the competition is fierce for early tee times.
56-501 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. 808/293-5842. Greens fees $33. Take H-1 west to H-2; follow H-2 through Wahiawa to Kamehameha Hwy. (Hwy. 99, then Hwy. 83); follow it to Kahuku.
Turtle Bay Resort This North Shore resort is home to two of Hawaii’s top golf courses. The 18-hole Arnold Palmer Course (formerly the Links at Kuilima) was designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. Now that the casuarina (ironwood) trees have matured, it’s not as windy as it used to be, but this is still a challenging course. The front 9, with rolling terrain, only a few trees, and lots of wind, play like a British Isles course. The back 9 have narrower tree-lined fairways and water. The course circles Punaho'olapa Marsh, a protected wetland for endangered Hawaiian waterfowl.
Another option is the par-71, 6,200-yard George Fazio Course—the only Fazio course in Hawaii. Larry Keil, pro at Turtle Bay, says that people like it because it’s a more forgiving course, without all the water hazards and bunkers of the Palmer course. The 6th hole has two greens, so you can play the hole as a par-3 or par-4. The toughest hole has to be the par-3, 176-yard 2nd hole, where you tee off across a lake with a mean crosswind. The most scenic hole is the 7th, where the ocean is on your left; in winter, you might get lucky and see some whales.
Facilities include a pro shop, a driving range, putting and chipping greens, and a snack bar. Weekdays are best for tee times.
57-049 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. www.turtlebayresort.com. 808/293-8574. Greens fees: Palmer Course $195 ($165 for resort guests); twilight rates (after 1pm) $120. Fazio Course $125 ($115 for resort guests); twilight rates $85. Take H-1 west past Pearl City; when the freeway splits, take H-2 and follow the signs to Haleiwa; at Haleiwa, take Hwy. 83 to Turtle Bay Resort. Bus: 52 or 55.
Leeward Oahu
Ko Olina Golf Club This Ted Robinson–designed course has rolling fairways and elevated tee and water features. Golf Digest once named it one of “America’s Top 75 Resort Courses.” The signature hole—the 12th, a par-3—has an elevated tee that sits on a rock garden with a cascading waterfall. At the 18th hole, you’ll see and hear water all around you—seven pools begin on the right side of the fairway and slope down to a lake. A waterfall is on your left off the elevated green. You’ll have no choice but to play the left and approach the green over the water. Book in advance; this course is crowded all the time. Facilities include a driving range, locker rooms, a Jacuzzi, steam rooms, a restaurant and bar. Lessons are available.
92-1220 Aliinui Dr., Kapolei. www.koolinagolf.com. 808/676-5300. Greens fees $225 ($195 for guests staying at any of the Ko Olina resorts); twilight rates (after 1pm) $160. Ask about transportation from Waikiki hotels. Collared shirts requested for men and women. Take H-1 west until it becomes Hwy. 93 (Farrington Hwy.); turn off at the Ko Olina exit; take the exit road (Aliinui Dr.) into Ko Olina Resort; turn left into the clubhouse. No bus service.
West Loch Municipal Golf Course This par-72, 6,615-yard course located just 30 minutes from Waikiki, in Ewa Beach, offers golfers a challenge at bargain rates. The difficulties on this unusual municipal course, designed by Robin Nelson and Rodney Wright, are water (lots of hazards), constant trade winds, and narrow fairways. To help you out, the course features a “water” driving range (with a lake) to practice your drives. In addition to the driving range, West Loch has practice greens, a pro shop, and a restaurant.
91-1126 Okupe St., Ewa Beach. 808/675-6076. Greens fees $55; 9 holes after 1pm $28; cart $20. Book 3 days in advance. Take H-1 west to the Hwy. 76 exit; stay in the left lane and turn left at West Loch Estates, just opposite St. Francis Medical Center. To park, take 2 immediate right turns. Bus: E.
Horseback Riding
You can gallop on the beach at the Turtle Bay Resort , 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku (www.turtlebayresort.com; 808/293-6024; bus: 52 or 55), where 45-minute rides along sandy beaches with spectacular ocean views and through a forest of ironwood trees cost $85 for age 7 and up (riders must be at least 4 ft., 4 in. tall). Romantic sunset rides are $110 per person. Private rides for up to four people are $130 per person. Kualoa Ranch , 49-560 Kamehameha Hwy., Ka'a'awa (www.kualoa.com; 800/231-7321 or 808/237-7321) also offers 1- and 2-hour horseback tours ($85 and $130, respectively) into the lush Kaaawa Valley, against the backdrop of the Kualoa mountains.
Guided Sightseeing Tours
If your time is limited, you might want to consider a guided tour. These tours are informative, can give you a good overview of Honolulu or Oahu in a limited amount of time, and are surprisingly entertaining.
E Noa Tours, 1141 Waimanu St., Suite 105, Honolulu (www.enoa.com; 800/824-8804 or 808/591-2561), offers a range of narrated tours, from island loops to explorations of Pearl Harbor, on air-conditioned, 27-passenger minibuses. The Majestic Circle Island Tour ($99 for adults, $80 for children 3–11) stops at Diamond Head Crater, Hanauma Bay, Byodo-In Temple, Sunset Beach, Waimea Valley (admission included), and various beach sites along the way. Other tours focus on Pearl Harbor/USS Arizona Memorial and the North Shore.
Waikiki Trolley Tours , 1141 Waimanu St., Suite 105, Honolulu (www.waikikitrolley.com; 800/824-8804 or 808/593-2822), offers four tours of sightseeing, entertainment, dining, and shopping that give you the lay of the land. You can get on and off the trolley as needed (trolleys come along every 2–20 min.). An all-day pass (8:30am–11:35pm) is $45 for adults; a 4-day pass is $65. For the same price, you can experience the 2-hour narrated Panoramic Coast Line tour (Blue Line) of the southeast side of Oahu, an easy way to see the stunning views.
Specialty Tours
Below is a sampling of specialty tours found on Oahu.
Chocolate Factory Tour
Hawaii is the only state in the U.S. to grow cacao commercially, and at bean-to-bar maker Manoa Chocolate , 315 Uluniu St., Suite 203 (www.manoachocolate.com; 808/262-6789), you can find out more about Hawaii’s burgeoning chocolate scene and see what it takes to turn cacao beans into smooth chocolate bars. You’ll taste the beans through every step of the process and be able to compare Hawaii-grown chocolate with chocolate from around the world. A rare treat.
To understand why Oahu was the island of kings, you need to see it from the air. Island Seaplane Service (www.islandseaplane.com; 808/836-6273) operates flights departing from a floating dock in the protected waters of Ke‘ehi Lagoon in either a six-passenger de Havilland Beaver or a four-passenger Cessna 206. There’s nothing quite like feeling the slap of the waves as the plane skims across the water and then effortlessly lifts into the air.
The half-hour tour ($179) gives you aerial views of Waikiki Beach, Diamond Head Crater, Kāhala’s luxury estates, and the sparkling waters of Hanauma and Kāne‘ohe bays; the 1-hour tour ($299) continues on to Chinaman’s Hat, the Polynesian Cultural Center, and the rolling surf of the North Shore. The flight returns across the island over Hawaii’s historic wartime sites: Schofield Barracks and the Pearl Harbor memorials.
Exploring by seaplane
Ko Hana Rum Tour
Discover how rum is made, from grass to glass at Ko Hana , 92-1770 Kunia Rd. #227 (www.kohanarum.com; 808/517-4067). But this is not just any rum. This is Hawaiian agricole rum, distilled from pure cane juice, fresh-pressed from heirloom varieties of Hawaiian sugarcane. Most rum you see on shelves starts from molasses, whereas at Ko Hana, it begins with sugarcane, and each bottle is labeled with the varietal it was distilled from. The tour in Kunia, in the heart of Oahu’s farmland, will not only give you sweeping views all the way to Diamond Head, it will take you through the cane fields, the distillery, and the tasting room to sample white rums alongside barrel-aged ones. Tours are $25 for adults.
Farm Tour
Take a tractor-pulled wagon ride through the tropical fruit groves of Kahuku Farms , 56-800 Kamehameha Hwy. (www.kahukufarms.com; 808/628-0639). For the smoothie tour ($16 for adults, $14 for children 5–12), you’ll learn about the apple banana (short and tart), lilikoi (passion fruit), and pineapple, and then taste them all in a smoothie made on the spot at the cafe. Oh, and don’t miss the grilled banana bread topped with made-on-the-farm ice cream and haupia (coconut) and caramel sauce.
Before you go online to book a place to stay, consider when you’ll be visiting. The high season, when hotels are full and rates are at their peak, is mid-December to March. The secondary high season, when rates are high but rooms are somewhat easier to come by, is June to September. The low seasons—when you can expect fewer tourists and better deals—are April to June and September to mid-December. (For more on Hawaii’s travel seasons, see “When to Go” on p. 49.) No matter when you travel, you can often get a good rate at many of Waikiki’s hotels by booking a package.
For a description of each neighborhood, see “The Island in Brief” (p. 64). It can help you decide where you’d like to base yourself.
Remember that hotel and room taxes of 14.962% will be added to your bill (Oahu has a .546% additional tax that the other islands do not have). And don’t forget about parking charges—at up to $30 a day in Waikiki, they can add up quickly.
Note that more and more hotels charge a mandatory daily “resort fee” or “amenity fee,” usually somewhere between $25 and $30, which can increase the room rates by 20%. Hotels say these charges cover amenities, some of which you may not need (such as movie rentals, a welcome drink, a color photograph of you on the property—drinking that welcome drink, perhaps?) and some which are awfully handy (such as Internet access and parking). We have listed resort charges next to the room rates in the reviews below.
Vacation Rentals Oahu has few true bed-and-breakfast inns. Instead, if you’re looking for a non-hotel experience, your best bet is a vacation rental. You can rent direct from owners via VRBO.com (Vacation Rentals by Owner) and Airbnb.com. On these sites, you’ll find a range of offerings, from $80-a-night studios to unique, off-the-beaten-path lodgings, like a Portlock cottage near Hanauma Bay on the water (listed on vrbo.com) or a North Shore treehouse (listed on Airbnb.com). Make sure to read the reviews before booking so you have a general idea of what you’re getting into. Note that for VRBO, unless you purchase VRBO’s Vacation Protection Services, most places won’t provide a refund if a rental is not what you expected. Airbnb.com gives renters more peace of mind; it withholds payment until check-in so renters can make sure the listing is as advertised. But I’ve booked places on both sites, basing my picks on reviews, and I’ve found the hosts friendly and listings accurate.
Waikiki
Ewa Waikiki
All the hotels listed below are located between the ocean and Kalakaua Avenue, and between Ala Wai Terrace in the Ewa (western) direction and Olohana Street and Fort DeRussy Park in the Diamond Head (eastern) direction.
Expensive
Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa This sprawling resort is like a microcosm of Waikiki—on good days it feels like a lively little beach town with hidden nooks and crannies to discover and great bars in which to make new friends, and on bad days it’s just an endless traffic jam, with lines into the parking garage, at the front desk, and in the restaurants. Need an oasis in the middle of it all? Choose the Alii Tower; it has its own lobby lounge, reception, and concierge, and even its own pool and bar; it’s like a hotel within a hotel.
But there’s something for everyone at the Hilton Hawaiian—I’ve seen families settling in for a screening of The Lorax on the lawn, winter breakers leaving the Tapa Tower (the largest tower) to hit the bars, and well-heeled (literally) tourists returning to the Alii Tower with their shopping bags. Room views can range from a straight-on view of the tower in front to oceanfront, so close to the water you can hear waves lapping. Cheaper rooms are in the Kalia, Tapa, and Diamond Head towers (which are farther from the beach), and the more expensive ones in the Rainbow and Alii, which are closest to the water. I found rooms in all the towers to be spacious, clean, and comfy, so ultimately it may come down to how close you want to be to the beach.
2005 Kalia Rd. (at Ala Moana Blvd.), Honolulu. www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com. 800/HILTONS or 808/949-4321. 2,860 units. $220–$550 double; from $499 suite. $35 resort charge per day includes Internet access and movie rentals. Extra person (over 2 adults) $50. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Valet parking $39, self-parking $32. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 9 restaurants; 4 bars; year-round children’s program; concierge; fitness center; 6 outdoor pools; room service; Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).
Prince Waikiki These two towers look like they’re from The Jetsons, especially with the glass-walled elevators zipping up and down the exterior. The hotel completed an extensive remodel in 2017; installing more inviting restaurants and an infinity pool; most arresting of the updates are the 800 pieces of shimmering copper, reminiscent of fish scales, suspended from the ceiling of the hotel lobby. The rooms were also updated, but you’ll probably spend most of your time looking outward; every room, even on the lower floors, boasts a yacht harbor view. This hotel is on the quiet side of Waikiki. There’s no beach in front, but it’s about a 10-minute walk to Ala Moana Beach Park, a more local and less-busy beach than Waikiki. Katsumidori Sushi restaurant, part of the remodel, offers quality sushi at reasonable prices.
100 Holomoana St. (just across Ala Wai Canal Bridge, on the ocean side of Ala Moana Blvd.), Honolulu. www.princeresortshawaii.com/hawaii-prince-hotel-waikiki. 888/977-4623 or 808/956-1111. 563 units. $294–$444 double; from $544 suite. Extra person $60. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Self-parking free. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 2 restaurants; outdoor bar; babysitting; concierge; 27-hole golf club a 40-min. drive away in Ewa Beach (reached by hotel shuttle); fitness room; outdoor pool; room service; small day spa; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
The Modern Honolulu Step into a hip and modern Waikiki, which means you won’t find rattan furniture anywhere nor slack key music over the speakers. Instead, you get sleek, all white with blond-wood-accented rooms and electronic funk a la Ibiza played in the common areas. Come here to see and be seen, at the clubby lobby bar behind the bookcase or alongside two oceanview pools—each with its own bar and expansive daybeds. Choose this hotel, too, if you’re looking to get away from the kids—the top pool is adults only. There’s no beach access here, but the pool has its own beachy sand—a blend culled from all the islands—to pretend like there is.
1775 Ala Moana Blvd. (at Hobron Lane), Honolulu. www.themodernhonolulu.com. 855/970-4161 or 808/943-5800. 353 units. $200–$500 double; from $530 suite. Valet parking only (no self-parking) $35. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Restaurant; nightclub; 4 lounges; concierge; fitness center; pool; 24-hr. room service; spa; free Wi-Fi.
Mid-Waikiki
All the hotels listed below are between Fort DeRussy in the Ewa (western) direction and Kaiulani Street in the Diamond Head (eastern) direction.
Expensive
Halekulani This is one of Waikiki’s most luxurious hotels; its name means “house befitting heaven.” The history of the Halekulani tracks that of Waikiki itself: At its inception at the turn of the 20th century, it was just a beachfront house and a few bungalows, and Waikiki was an undeveloped stretch of sand and drained marshland. By the 1980s, Waikiki was a different place, and so was the Halekulani, which was relaunched by its new Japanese owners as an oasis of mostly oceanfront hotel rooms, marble foyers, and beautifully landscaped courtyards—and so it remains. It’s all very understated—it actually doesn’t look like much from the outside. But what it lacks in splashy grandeur, a la Royal Hawaiian, it makes up with a quiet elegance.
It is possible to find affordable parking in Waikiki if you know where to look. I’ve divided up the parking into free or metered parking and carry-a-big-wallet parking.
FREE OR METERED PARKING:
All side streets in Waikiki. Some have time limits, make sure to check the posted signs.
Ala Wai Boulevard along the Ala Wai Canal
Kalākaua Avenue along Kapi'olani Park
Waikiki Zoo
BEST OF THE NOT-SO-AFFORDABLE PARKING:
International Marketplace, 2330 Kalakaua Ave. (Parking entrance at Kuhio Ave. and Walina St. First hour free with validation, $2 per hour for the next 3 hours)
Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, 2201 Kalakaua Ave. (First hour free with validation, $2 per hour for the next 2 hours)
Waikiki Beach Marriott, 2552 Kalakaua Ave. (entrance on Ohua Ave.; free if you eat here, $8 per hour if you don’t)
Waikiki Shopping Plaza, 2270 Kalakaua Ave. ($5 per hour, $7 flat-rate weekends 6:30am–6pm and evenings 6pm–midnight)
The large rooms are done in what the Halekulani calls its signature “seven shades of white.” Generously sized tile-and-marble bathrooms and louver shutter doors separating the lanais contribute to the spare yet luxe feel. Of all the hotels in Waikiki, this one feels the most peaceful, abetted by lovely, personable service. It’s a true escape.
2199 Kalia Rd. (at the ocean end of Lewers St.), Honolulu. www.halekulani.com. 800/367-2343 or 808/923-2311. 453 units. $495–$960 double; from $980 suite. Extra person $125. 1 child 17 and under stays free in parent’s room using existing bedding; additional rollaway bed $40. Maximum 3 people per room. Parking $35. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; 24-hr. concierge; fitness center; gorgeous outdoor pool; room service; spa; free tickets to the Honolulu Museum of Art, Bishop Museum, and Doris Duke’s Shangri La estate; free Wi-Fi.
Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort This is Waikiki’s oldest hotel, built in 1901. Even after more than 100 years, multiple renovations, and the construction of two towers in the ’50s and ’60s, the hotel has managed to retain its original and still grand Beaux-Arts main building. It’s so picturesque you’re likely to encounter many a Japanese wedding couple posing for a shot along the staircase and in the lobby. I prefer the rooms in the Banyan Wing for their nostalgic character, but these tend to be small in size. Larger rooms with lanais are in the Tower Wing, and although they are as well appointed as any you’ll find at other Westin properties, with granite bathrooms and signature Heavenly beds, they don’t feel very Hawaii. Of course, to change that, get a room with a view of Diamond Head, or just step out under the giant banyan tree in the courtyard and enjoy the nightly live Hawaiian music and a mai tai.
2365 Kalakaua Ave. (ocean side of the street, across from Kaiulani St.), Honolulu. www.moana-surfrider.com. 800/325-3535 or 808/922-3111. 793 units. $300–$610 double; from $970 suite. $30 resort charge per day (covers self-parking, Internet, and local calls). Extra person $120. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Valet parking $15 additional. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; nearby fitness room (about a 2-min. walk down the beach at the Sheraton Waikiki); outdoor pool; room service; Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).
Affordable waikiki: Aqua Hotels
Inexpensive accommodations are few and far between on Oahu, and especially in Waikiki . . . at least places you’d actually want to stay in. But a good bet is the Aqua chain (www.aquaresorts.com), whose inexpensive to moderately priced properties (from $119 a night) are managed by a Hawaii-based company. Hotels vary in quality (with furnishings ranging from dated tropical to bright and modern), but they are generally clean, well maintained, and regularly updated.
Some of the Oahu standouts in the Aqua portfolio include the Aqua Waikiki Pearl, 415 Nahua St. ( 808/954-7425), right in the middle of Waikiki and about a 10-minute walk to the beach. It has spacious room options, and I was able to find a 450-square-foot room for $125 online. The Aqua Oasis, 320 Lewers St. ( 808/441-7781) is just that—a cheery property with a lush courtyard and lounge area as well as clean rooms with city views and plumeria accents. Rates here start at $150. Rooms in the Luana Waikiki, 2045 Kalakaua Ave. ( 808/955-6000), which Aqua acquired from Outrigger in 2014, start at $159. It offers a pool and suites with a kitchen. Best of the midrange Aqua hotels is the Park Shore Waikiki, 2586 Kalākaua Ave. ( 808/954-7426), which offers views of Diamond Head and the ocean, starting at just $160 a night.
Outrigger Reef on the Beach You may arrive by car, but the Outrigger reminds you—with the 100-year-old koa wood canoe suspended in the longhouse entryway—that long ago, the Polynesians came to Hawaii by boat, navigating their way only by the stars. The Hawaii-based Outrigger chain has a handful of hotels on Oahu, and this one is its most striking, with lovely Hawaiian cultural touches. You’ll find the outrigger theme throughout the hotel, such as in the collection of Polynesian canoe art by Herb Kane, who some call the “father of the Hawaiian Renaissance.” (Most notably, he built the double-hulled voyaging canoe the Hokulea in 1975, which revived ancient celestial navigation methods. From 2014-2017, the Hokulea sailed around the world—without a compass, GPS, or any other modern-day navigational equipment.) But don’t worry, at Outrigger Reef, you can have your historical culture and modern amenities too, such as free Wi-Fi, a large pool, and three restaurants, including the new, beachside Reef Bar and Market Grill with grill-your-own steaks. Decked out in tasteful Hawaiian decor, rooms are spacious.
Note that Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach (www.outriggerwaikikihotel.com) has a similar feel and price point to Outrigger Reef on the Beach, but its location in the center of Waikiki and its resident bar—Duke’s Waikiki, the area’s most happening bar—means it’s a little more bustling and noisy.
2169 Kalia Rd. (at Saratoga Rd.), Honolulu. www.outriggerreef.com. 866/733-6420 or 808/923-3111. 639 units. $200–$450 double. Resort fee $30 includes Wi-Fi and rides on the Waikiki Trolley. Extra person (over 2 adults) $75 per person per night. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Valet parking only (no self-parking) $35. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; fitness center; spa; outdoor pools.
Royal Hawaiian The “Pink Palace of the Pacific” is as pink as the Halekulani is white. Everytime I step into the Royal Hawaiian, it still takes my breath away. I love its vibrant exoticism—the Spanish-Moorish architecture manifested in graceful stucco arches, the patterned floor tiles, the ornate lamps. Who knew that pink could look so good against Hawaii’s blue skies and seas? The historic rooms are my favorite, with the pink and gold-embossed wallpaper and dark-wood furniture. Rooms in the Mailani Tower wing are larger, the colors more muted (although, don’t worry, there are still pink accents) and the bathrooms there have fancy Toto toilets. Here, even your 'okole (rear end) is pampered.
2259 Kalakaua Ave. (at Royal Hawaiian Ave., on the ocean side of the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center), Honolulu. www.royal-hawaiian.com. 800/325-3535 or 808/923-7311. 528 units. $350–$535 double; from $490 suite. Extra person $155. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 2 restaurants; landmark bar; babysitting; bike rentals; concierge; prefered tee times at area golf courses; outdoor pool; room service; spa; free Wi-Fi. A fitness room and a year-round children’s program (are offered next door at the Sheraton Waikiki).
Sheraton Waikiki At 30 stories tall, the Sheraton towers over its neighbors. With almost 2,000 rooms and a location right in the middle of the busiest section of Waikiki, this is not the place to book if you’re looking for a peaceful getaway. What you do get: views of the ocean (available in most rooms), the Helumoa Playground pool for kids, and a gorgeous infinity pool for adults. Expect crowds, though. Drinks at Rumfire are fun, with great views to match; the Kai Market dinner buffet offers a smorgasbord of local flavors. Dining is expensive (as is expected at most Waikiki hotels); for cheap, grab-and-go meals, I like to go to Lawson Station, something of a Japanese version of 7-Eleven but with much better food, such as bento boxes, oden, and yummy desserts made by local companies.
2255 Kalākaua Ave. (at Royal Hawaiian Ave., on the ocean side of the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center and west of the Royal Hawaiian), Honolulu. www.sheraton-waikiki.com. 800/325-3535 or 808/922-4422. 1,852 units. $295–$495 double; from $705 suite. $35 resort charge per day (includes Internet, and local and long-distance calls). Extra person $120. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Valet parking $45, self-parking $35. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; nightclub; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s program; concierge; fitness center; 2 large outdoor pools; room service; Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).
Moderate
The Laylow Following the Surfjack, the Laylow opened in 2017 for the Instagram jet-set crowd. It’s part of the Marriott Autograph Collection, but with under 200 rooms and a lovely midcentury Hawaii aesthetic, it feels like a boutique hotel. Despite its location right next to the International Marketplace and in the middle of Waikiki, the second floor Hideout restaurant and lounge creates an oasis edged with tropical foliage, low-slung banquettes, modern wicker chairs, and fire pits. There are even sandy areas to dig your toes into. The rooms capture the same vibe, with minimalist 1960s wood furniture, warmed up with teal-and-pink palm wallpaper.
2299 Kuhio Ave., Honolulu. www.laylowwaikiki.com. 808/922-6600. 186 units. $209–$269 double; suites from $279. $25 resort fee. Extra person $35. Valet parking $35. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; room service; free Wi-Fi.
Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club Step back into the golden ages of Waikiki, when Don Ho crooned in Waikiki lounges and the beachfront was dotted with low-slung buildings and bungalows. The Surfjack, new in 2016, was remade from a 1960s budget hotel. Its owners enlisted a considerable amount of local talent, from young designers to established artists, to create a space that screams midcentury-beach house cool, from the “Wish You Were Here” mosaic on the swimming pool floor to the pretty blue and white tiling in the bathrooms to the vintage headboard upholstery by Tori Richard. It’s not close to the beach, and the views are mostly of buildings, and yet, it’s hard to leave this soulful enclave, where you can get excellent cocktails by the pool or a perfect cup of coffee while you browse the on-site boutique, Olive and Oliver.
412 Lewers St., Honolulu. www.surfjack.com. 855/945-4082 or 808/564-7608. 112 units. $217–$287 double; suites from $287. $25 resort fee (includes Internet and local calls). Extra person $30. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; room service; Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).
Waikiki Parc This is the Halekulani’s younger, hipper sister, located across the street and run by the same management company. The lobby entrance glows blue to the beat of electronica, and the breakfast buffet is served in what used to be a Nobu dining room. The rooms aren’t as posh as the rest of the hotel, though—the floors are tile and rooms feel more utilitarian than stylish. But the location—across the street from the beach—is great. Spring for an ocean view; otherwise, you might be overlooking the parking lot.
2233 Helumoa Rd. (at Lewers St.), Honolulu. www.waikikiparc.com. 800/422-0450 or 808/921-7272. 297 units. $221–$345 double. Extra person $75. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; concierge; fitness center; 8th-floor pool deck; room service; free admission to the Bishop Museum and Honolulu Museum of Art; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
The Breakers In the 1950s and ’60s, thanks to statehood and the jet age, Waikiki’s low-rise skyline gave way to larger and taller hotels. A lot of the more modest hotels are long gone . . . except for the Breakers. The two-story building, built in 1954, has managed to hold on to its family feel and prime real estate (just a few minutes’ walk to the beach and the center of Waikiki). It’s like a Hawaii-style motel, built around a pool, with charming touches such as double-pitched roofs, shoji doors to the lanai, and tropical landscaping. All of the rooms come with a kitchenette, though the appliances look like they’re from the ’70s. Sure, the decor is dated and worn, but it’s clean.
250 Beach Walk (btw. Kalakaua Ave. and Kalia Rd.), Honolulu. www.breakers-hawaii.com. 800/426-0494 or 808/923-3181. 64 units, all with shower only. $160–$180 double (extra person $20 per day); $235 garden suite double. Limited free parking (just 6 stalls); additional parking across the street $16 per day. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Restaurant; grill; outdoor pool; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby).
Coconut Waikiki Hotel Rooms at this family-friendly hotel are spacious and immaculate and come with a small lanai and wet bar. The tiny pool is kind of wedged between the hotel and a fence—better to grab the free beach-towel rental and head to the ocean sands. Its sister hotel, Shoreline Hotel Waikiki (shorelinehotelwaikiki.com; 808/931-2444), is a few blocks away, with similar amenities and a midcentury modern vibe. Check out Heavenly, inside the Shoreline, with its surfer-chic decor and delicious brunch fare, including the French toast and loco moco.
450 Lewers St. (at Ala Wai Blvd.), Honolulu. coconutwaikikihotel.com. 808/923-8828. 81 units. $169–$219 double; from $249 suite. Valet parking only (no self-parking) $26. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Tiny outdoor pool w/sun deck; free Wi-Fi.
Vive Hotel The good: a stylish lobby, clean rooms, free continental breakfast with lots of fresh fruit, and no resort fee. The bad: small, bordering on cramped quarters. But you can always take advantage of the free beach mats, chairs, and umbrellas and escape to the beach just minutes away. With a generous and friendly staff, this is a great value option.
2426 Kuhio Ave., Honolulu. vivehotelwaikiki.com. 808/687-2000. 119 units. $159–$337 double. Valet parking only (no self-parking) $25. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
You’ll find all these hotels between Ala Wai Boulevard and the ocean, and between Kaiulani Street and world-famous Diamond Head itself.
Moderate
Hotel Renew This is a stylish boutique hotel just a block from the beach. Like its lobby bar, rooms at Hotel Renew are small but well edited and well designed. You get a minimalist, Japanese aesthetic, mood lighting, and plush beds with a down featherbed and down comforter. The crowd that stays here are 20- and 30-somethings who don’t need hibiscus and tropical prints to tell them they’re vacationing in Hawaii.
129 Paoakalani Ave. (at Lemon Rd.), Honolulu. www.hotelrenew.com. 888/485-7639 or 808/687-7700. 72 units. $190–$350 double. Amenity fee $25 per day (includes continental breakfast). Valet parking $25. Bus: 19 or 20. Amenities: Lounge; concierge; Wi-Fi (included in amenity fee).
Lotus Honolulu at Diamond Head Here on the quiet side of Waikiki, between Kapiolani Park and Diamond Head, you can sleep with the windows open. A former W Hotel property, the Lotus was updated with dark hardwood floors, platform beds, granite-tiled bathrooms, and—in the corner units—a lanai and window that frame Diamond Head beautifully. Little touches like morning yoga classes in the park make for a welcoming boutique experience.
2885 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki. www.lotushonolulu.com. 808/922-1700. 51 units. $239–$512 double. Extra person $30. Amenity fee $25 (includes parking). Bus: 2 or 14. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; shuttle to Waikiki and Ala Moana; Wi-Fi (included in amenity fee).
New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel It’s almost a different world here, with Kapiolani Park providing a buffer from the frenzy of Waikiki. The hotel’s best feature is its location right on Kaimana Beach, where the crowds are thinner and the water cleaner. The rooms can be a bit tight, but the pricier ones face the ocean straight on, with no obstructions, and have lanai where you can lose yourself to the aquamarine blues stretching all the way to the horizon. In 2017, the hotel finally finished a three-year update to the décor, putting the “new” back into the New Otani. Start your day with breakfast at the Hau Tree Lānai restaurant, under the canopy of the age-old tree.
2863 Kalakaua Ave. (ocean side of the street just before Diamond Head and just past the Waikiki Aquarium, across from Kapiolani Park), Waikiki. www.kaimana.com. 800/356-8264 or 808/923-1555. 124 units. $175–$350 double; from $176 studio; from $255 1-bedroom; from $400 suite. Extra person $50. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Check website for special packages. Valet parking $23. Bus: 2 or 14. Amenities: 2 restaurants; beachfront bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; free Wi-Fi.
To the East: Kahala
Kahala Hotel & Resort Hotel magnate Conrad Hilton opened the Kahala in 1964 as a secluded and exclusive retreat away from Waikiki. Fifty years and a different owner later, the hotel retains that feeling of peacefulness and exclusivity. Its rooms convey a unique island luxury, aka “Kahala chic.” In your private quarters, you’ll get a plush bed and enormous bathroom with a soaking tub and separate shower. On the property, you have access to a small beach with a private feel (in Hawaii, all beaches are public, but few people come here). There’s a pool, too, but what makes the Kahala unique is the Dolphin Quest, which allows you to get up close and personal with the dolphins in the lagoon. The hotel’s restaurants offer experiences such as a beachfront brunch buffet, afternoon tea on the veranda, and an upscale Pacific Rim dinner, all of which make the Kahala a worthy escape from the bustle of Waikiki.
5000 Kahala Ave. (next to the Waialae Country Club), Honolulu. www.kahalaresort.com. 800/367-2525 or 808/739-8888. 343 units. From $450 double; from $1,095 suite. Extra person $100. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Check online for packages and discounts. Parking $32. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars; babysitting; year-round children’s program (for a fee); concierge; nearby golf course; fitness center; large outdoor pool; room service; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
The Windward Coast
For the Windward side, your best bet is VRBO.com and Airbnb.com (mentioned earlier in “Vacation Rentals”), where beachy bungalows start at $149 (plus cleaning fees) a night. Note: Windward Coast accommodations are located on the “Eastern Oahu & the Windward Coast” map (p. 97).
Kailua
Lanikai Beach Rentals Lanikai clings tenaciously to its laidback, beachy vibe, even in the face of a growing number of visitors. Spend the night in an old-style, homey, and comfortable Lanikai house just across the street from the beach to feel a part of the neighborhood. Lanikai Beach Rentals offers a range of units, from a garden studio decorated in Hawaiiana print and rattan furniture to the beachfront house once the residence of John Walker, who built the Bishop Museum and Honolulu Hale. The properties are furnished with cooking utensils and beach equipment—all you need to make it home.
1277 Mokulua Dr. (btw. Onekea and Aala drives in Lanikai), Kailua. www.lanikaibeachrentals.com. 808/261-7895. Rentals range from a $249 studio or 1-bedroom double to $1,400 for a 5-bedroom house. Cleaning fee $131. 5-night minimum. Free parking. Bus: 56. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Sheffield House Kailua is a small beach town, with restaurants, shops, and a business center anchored by Whole Foods. Staying with long-time Kailua residents Paul and Rachel Sheffield (they live in a separate, adjacent house on the property) puts you right in the middle of everything—it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the beach but also a short stroll to Whole Foods, the Sunday farmer’s market, and “town” for groceries and entertainment. (Convenience does have its drawbacks, though—the house is on one of Kailua’s busy streets, which means traffic sounds.) There are two vacation rentals here—a one-bedroom and a studio, each with its own private entry and kitchenette.
131 Kuulei Rd. (at Kalaheo Dr.), Kailua. www.hawaiisheffieldhouse.com. 808/262-0721. 2 units. $144–$164 studio double; $164–$184 1-bedroom. Extra person $20. Cleaning fee $65–$75. Rates include 1st day’s continental breakfast. Free parking. Bus: 56. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
The North Shore
The North Shore has few tourist accommodations—some say that’s its charm. VRBO.com and Airbnb.com (mentioned earlier in “Vacation Rentals”) offer a good range of places to stay, such as a Haleiwa studio on the first floor of a two-story home for $85 a night, a North Shore loft with three beds from $159, and a three-bedroom house steps away from Sunset Beach for $410 a night. Cleaning fees vary.
Note: North Shore accommodations are located on the “Oahu’s North Shore” map (p. 105).
Very Expensive
Turtle Bay Resort The North Shore’s only resort possesses a beachy, laidback, but luxurious style befitting the less-developed, unhurried North Shore. The lobby and gym open up with ocean views, the spa is amply sized, the restaurants’ menus highlight locally grown ingredients, and rooms have ocean views, calming, neutral palettes and walk-in stone showers. Turtle Bay has also embraced its role as a surf-scene hub, especially in the wintertime, when the surfing season is in full swing. All the pros come to Lei Lei’s Bar and Grill for a drink, and Surfer, The Bar—a collaboration between the resort and Surfer magazine—offers Surf Talk Story nights, bringing in pro surfers and watermen to share their tales. The resort really feels like a part of the North Shore landscape. Of all the resorts outside of Waikiki (including Kahala and Aulani), this would be my pick, for the vibe, the value, and the surroundings.
57-091 Kamehameha Hwy. (Hwy. 83), Kahuku. www.turtlebayresort.com. 800/203-3650 or 808/293-6000. 477 units. $290–$389 double; from $599 cottage; from $499 suite; from $1,169 villa. Daily $40 resort fee (includes self-parking and Internet access). Extra person $50. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; 36-hole golf course; stable w/horseback riding; 2 outdoor heated pools (with 80-ft. water slide); room service; spa w/fitness center; 4 tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals; Wi-Fi (included in resort fee).
Ke Iki Beach Bungalows These bungalows are right on a beautiful, wide, and uncrowded beach, between Sharks Cove (great for snorkeling in the summer) and Pipeline (for the best pro-surfer wave-watching come winter). Ranging from basic studios to two-bedroom accommodations, each unit comes with bamboo furniture, a TV, and a full kitchen, plus its own grill. Stock up on groceries at the nearby Foodland (part of the largest locally owned supermarket chain in Hawaii). Be aware that units have no air-conditioning, but ceiling fans and North Shore breezes are usually enough to keep the air cool. Settle into one of the hammocks strung up between the palm trees overlooking the beach—this is island living.
59-579 Ke Iki Rd. (off Kamehameha Hwy.), Haleiwa. www.keikibeach.com. 866/638-8229 or 808/638-8229. 11 units with garden or ocean views, ranging from studios to 1 or 2 bedrooms. $135 (gardenview studio)–$230 (beachfront 2-bedroom). Extra person stays free. Cleaning fee $55–$100. Free parking. Bus: 52. Amenities: Free use of bikes and watersports equipment; free Wi-Fi.
Leeward Oahu: The Waianae Coast
Ko Olina is growing as the luxury hotel hub of the Leeward coast. The Aulani opened in 2011, the Four Seasons in late 2016, and an Atlantis resort will be complete by 2019. The new resorts are in sharp contrast to the rest of the coast, which is Oahu’s poorest.
Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa, Ko Olina, Hawaii Aulani offers plenty of fun from Mickey and friends to entertain the kids, such as a character breakfast with photo ops, but it’s also a celebration of Hawaiian culture. Disney’s “imagineers” worked with locals to get many of the details just right, from murals and woodcarvings throughout the property that tell the story of Hawaii. At the Olelo Room, one of the resort bars, common objects are labeled with their Hawaiian names (everyone learns a new language better when they’re drinking, right?) and there’s live Hawaiian music every night. A 900-foot-long lazy river threads the resort, which—along with children’s programs like storytelling nights under the stars, Hawaiian crafts classes, and Disney movies on the lawn—makes the Aulani, perhaps unsurprisingly, one of the best lodging choices for families. Even I, by now a cynical adult, am always delighted when I set foot on this property.
92-1185 Aliinui Dr., Kapolei. http://resorts.disney.go.com/aulani-hawaii-resort. 714/520-7001 (reservations) or 808/674-6200 (hotel). 359 units in hotel, $449–$670 hotel room, from $1,340 suite. Parking $37. No bus service. Take H-1 west toward Pearl City/Ewa Beach; stay on H-1 until it becomes Hwy. 93 (Farrington Hwy.); look for the exit sign for Ko Olina Resort; turn left on Aliinui Dr. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; championship 18-hole golf course; numerous outdoor pools and water features; room service; spa; watersports equipment rentals; free Wi-Fi.
If you plan to camp, you’ll need to bring your own gear; there aren’t places on the island to rent equipment.
The best places to camp on Oahu are listed below. TheBus’s Circle Island route can get you to or near all these sites, but remember: On TheBus, you’re allowed only one bag, which has to fit under the seat. If you have more gear, you’re going to have to drive or take a cab.
The Windward Coast
Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden
This little-known windward campground outside Kaneohe is a real treasure. It’s hard to believe that it’s just half an hour from downtown Honolulu. The name Hoomaluhia, or “peace and tranquility,” accurately describes this 400-acre botanical garden at the foot of the jagged Ko'olau Range. In this lush setting, gardens are devoted to plants specific to tropical America, native Hawaii, Polynesia, India, Sri Lanka, and Africa. A 32-acre lake sits in the middle of the scenic park (no swimming or boating allowed), and there are numerous hiking trails. The visitor center offers free guided walks Saturday at 10am and Sunday at 1pm (call 808/233-7323 to register).
Facilities for this tent-camp area include restrooms, cold showers, dishwashing stations, picnic tables, and water. Shopping and gas are available in Kaneohe, 2 miles away. Stays are limited to 3 nights, from 9am Friday to 4pm Monday only. Reserve a campsite up to 2 weeks in advance at camping.honolulu.gov. Permits are $32, valid for the entire weekend (Fri–Sun). To get here from Waikiki, take H-1 to the Pali Highway (Hwy. 61); turn left on Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83); and at the fourth light, turn left on Luluku Road. TheBus nos. 55 and 65 stop nearby on Kamehameha Highway; from here, you’ll have to walk 2 miles to the visitor center.
Kahana Bay Beach Park
Lying under Tahiti-like cliffs, with a beautiful gold-sand crescent beach framed by pine-needle casuarina trees, Kahana Bay Beach Park is a place of serene beauty. You can swim, bodysurf, fish, hike, and picnic or just sit and listen to the trade winds whistle through the beach pines (and sometimes, cars—the campsite is along Kamehameha Highway).
Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers, picnic tables, and drinking water. Note: The restrooms are located at the north end of the beach, far away from the camping area.
Permits can be obtained at camping.ehawaii.gov for $18 a night. Camping is only allowed from Friday through Wednesday.
Kahana Bay Beach Park is set in the 52-222 block of Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) in Kahana. From Waikiki, take the H-1 west to the Likelike Highway (Hwy. 63). Continue north on the Likelike, through the Wilson Tunnel, turning left on Hwy. 83; Kahana Bay is 13 miles down the road on the right. You can also get here via TheBus no. 55.
The North Shore
Mālaekahana Bay State Recreation Area
This is one of the most beautiful beach-camping areas in the state, with a mile-long, gold-sand beach on Oahu’s North Shore. During low tide, you can wade/swim out to Goat Island, a sanctuary for seabirds and turtles. There are two areas for tent camping. Facilities include picnic tables, restrooms, showers, sinks, and drinking water. For your safety, the park gate is closed between 6:45pm and 7am; vehicles cannot enter or exit during those hours. Groceries and gas are available in Laie and Kahuku, each less than a mile away.
Permits are $18 a night and available at camping.ehawaii.gov. Camping is limited to Friday through Wednesday.
The recreation area is located on Kamehameha Highway (Hwy. 83) between Laie and Kahuku. Take the H-2 to Hwy. 99 to Hwy. 83 (both roads are called Kamehameha Hwy.); continue on Hwy. 83, just past Kahuku. You can also get here via TheBus no. 55.
Hawaii offers food experiences that exist nowhere else in the world, from dishes based on foods eaten by ancient Native Hawaiians to plate lunches in which you can see the history of Hawaii, from postwar-era holes-in-the-wall (where the only thing that’s changed is the prices) to fancy dining rooms that spawned the birth of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. Asian food dominates, thanks to the state’s demographics (as of 2012, Hawaii was the country’s only majority-Asian state, comprising 56.9% of the total population). On Oahu, the most promising places to eat are often found in the most unexpected places. For the adventurous, eating here is like a treasure hunt.
Honolulu: Waikiki
Thanks to an influx of Japanese tourists, Waikiki now has some of the best Japanese food outside of Japan. It also has some of Honolulu’s most luxurious dining rooms with ocean views—at a price.
Expensive
Herringbone Waikiki MODERN AMERICAN/SEAFOOD Herringbone’s whimsical dining room and open-air lanai feels part tropical terrarium, part natural-history museum, part New England crab shack thanks to the hanging foliage, repurposed lobster traps, and pufferfish ornaments that make up the décor. The seafood-focused menu is as interesting as the ambiance, with octopus dunked in a buffalo sauce (as in buffalo wings), whole fish ceviche, and onaga (a local snapper) in a citrus miso glaze. Tip: Come during happy hour for drink and pupu specials, as well as $2 oysters.
At the International Marketplace, 2330 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.herringboneeats.com. 808/797-2435. Main courses $34–$45. Brunch Fri–Sun 10:30am–2:30pm; happy hour daily 4–6pm; dinner Sun–Thurs 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm.
La Mer NEOCLASSICAL FRENCH La Belle Époque meets Pacific teak and rattan against heart-achingly romantic views of the ocean and Diamond Head. Sometimes it’s all a little over the top, like when a red rose the size of your fist is perched on your cocktail, but those into haute French cuisine with a touch of the theatrical will love La Mer. Choose from three- or four-course tasting menus, or the menu dégustation, seven courses featuring luxe ingredients such as foie gras tiled with shiitake mushrooms, abalone meunière, lobster tail bathed in butter and lobster consommé, and a filet of beef with truffle. Luxe indeed. La Mer is one of the few restaurants on Oahu that requires men to wear a jacket or long-sleeved shirt.
At the Halekulani, 2199 Kalia Rd., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.halekulani.com. 808/923-2311. Reservations recommended. Jackets or long-sleeved shirts required for men. Tasting menus start at $110, menu dégustation $195, $95 for wine pairing. Daily 6–10pm.
Moderate
Bills Sydney AUSTRALIAN Bill Granger is an Australian restaurateur whose claim to fame is his ricotta pancakes and scrambled eggs. Yup, scrambled eggs. They’re that good. Come for breakfast or brunch for the light and moist pancakes or the full Aussie breakfast. The burger is excellent, too.
280 Beach Walk Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.billshawaii.com. 808/922-1500. Main courses $8–$28. Mon–Sun 7am–10pm.
Ginza Bairin JAPANESE The Japanese take their tonkatsu—fried pork cutlets—very, very seriously. Here, a kurobota pork loin katsu can run you $36, but, oh, there’s such joy in the crispy, greaseless panko crust and the juicy pork within. Grind some sesame seeds into the plummy tonkatsu sauce, and dip your pork in. The tonkatsu is served on a wire pedestal (to keep the bottom from steaming and going soggy) and a bottomless chiffonade of cabbage salad. Tip: Just as good, and only $10, is the pork tenderloin katsu sandwich—a thinner cut of pork, expertly fried, between two slices of white bread with the crusts cut off.
255 Beach Walk, Waikiki, Honolulu. www.ginzabairin.com. 808/926-8082. Main courses $12–$32. Sun–Wed 11am–10:30pm; Thurs–Fri 11am–11:30pm.
Goofy Café and Dine HEALTHY Named not after the Disney character but the right-foot-forward surfing stance, this charming spot has a cozy, beachy vibe, lined with reclaimed wood and decorated with surfboards that, from the looks of it, are waxed and ready to go. (The popular locals’ surfing spot, Bowls, is nearby.) It’s a surfer’s cafe as envisioned by a Japanese company that also runs Aloha Table in Waikiki. Goofy has a breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu, but breakfast (served all day) is the best part: Look for eggs Benedict, French toast drizzled with creamy Big Island honey, green smoothies poured over chia seeds, and huge acai bowls mounded over with fresh fruit. Come later, for dinner or to sit at the bar, and you can get a sugarcane sour, shaken with Hawaiian Shochu Co.’s unique, Haleiwa-made sweet-potato spirit.
1831 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 201., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.goofy-honolulu.com. 808/943-0077. Breakfast $10–$14. Daily 7am–11pm.
Sure, dining in Waikiki’s high-end hotels is often an overpriced affair, but sometimes the occasion warrants everything that comes with it—including ocean views and upscale service. My pick for special events is the Halekulani (p. 130). Here are my favorite ways to soak up the Halekulani’s rarefied restaurant experiences:
The Sunday brunch buffet at Orchids is a must—it’s the best in Hawaii, with everything from a roast-suckling-pig carving station to a sashimi and poke bar. Leave room for the ice cream sundae bar, the Halekulani’s signature fluffy coconut cake, and lots of dainty desserts. (Note: Reserve a spot weeks in advance.) Love afternoon tea? Orchids also serves my favorite afternoon tea service on the island, with an array of sandwiches and sweets, as well as an excellent selection of premium teas.
Come sunset, head to House Without a Key for a mai tai and the lovely hula of five former Miss Hawaiis, including the legendary Kanoe Miller.
If the occasion calls for something more romantic and intimate, I go to L’Aperitif, the bar inside La Mer, where drinks are inspired by 19th-century French cocktail culture and each glass is accompanied by a delightful amuse bouche.
Hula Grill Waikiki AMERICAN The night before, you might be slamming back tiki drinks and making new friends at the ever-popular and rowdy Duke’s down below. For the morning after, head to Hula Grill (owned by the same restaurant group as Duke’s), where the ocean views, banana-and-macnut pancakes and chewy strawberry mochi waffle will smooth out any hangover. Not so adventurous in the morning? There’s standard omelet breakfast fare, too. Breakfast and brunch are the most reasonably priced meals; dinner gets into the $30 range and isn’t worth it.
At the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach, 2335 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.hulagrillwaikiki.com. 808/923-HULA [4852]. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast $7–$14; main courses $21–$35. Daily 6:30am–10pm, 2–6pm (aloha hour with light menu).
Kona Coffee Purveyors CAFE/BAKERY Don’t go anywhere else for coffee and pastries in Waikiki. One of Hawaii’s best coffee companies teamed up with one of San Francisco’s best pastry chefs, Belinda Leong, and the result is a perfect cup of coffee paired with perfect baked goods. Don’t miss the kouign amann, flaky croissant dough crusted with caramelized sugar and layered with flavors such as black sesame or chocolate.
At International Marketplace, 2330 Kalakaua Ave, Waikiki, Honolulu. www.konacoffeepurveyors.com. 808/845-1700. Pastries $4–$7. Daily 7am–10pm.
Mahina and Sun’s MODERN HAWAIIAN Local fish is the star at Ed Kenney’s latest restaurant (his others, Mud Hen Water (p. 156) and Town (p. 157) are also worth checking out). The sad truth is that in Waikiki, it’s hard to find good local seafood. Most of the stuff on menus, from shellfish to salmon, is imported. But you won’t find any of that here. Order the Family Feast for the best Mahina and Sun’s experience—a whole, mochiko fried local fish arrives to the table, surrounded by fixin’s: roasted roots with ogo (seaweed), pohole (fiddlehead fern) salad, buttered ulu (breadfruit), plus oysters, raised on the windward side of Oahu, and to finish, a salted mac nut pavlova.
At Surfjack Hotel, 412 Lewers Street, Waikiki, Honolulu. www.surfjack.com. 808/924-5810. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast and lunch $9–$16; dinner entrees $17–$40. Breakfast and lunch daily 6:30am–4:30pm; Dinner Sun–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat until midnight.
Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar SUSHI/PACIFIC RIM Sushi purists and sticklers for rice/fish ratios need not come. But those looking for creativity in their sushi should make their way to restaurateur D. K. Kodama’s most popular spot. The best rolls here don’t even have rice, like the moi sashimi wrapped around sweet Maui onions in a pool of ponzu, or the panko-crusted ahi in a soy mustard sauce. Don’t miss the crab truffle ramen. Tip: Sushi is half off from 10pm to 1am Friday and Saturday, although you might have to put up with some very loud karaoke. Just hope your fellow diners are good singers.
At the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort, 2552 Kalakaua Ave., 3rd floor, Waikiki, Honolulu. www.sanseihawaii.com. 808/931-6286. Reservations recommended. Sushi $3–$18; main courses $16–$35. Sat–Wed 5:30–10pm; Thurs–Fri 5:30pm–1am.
Inexpensive
Maguro Brothers SEAFOOD Poke bowls have swept the continental U.S., but the best one you’ll ever have is in Hawaii at this little takeout window. You’ll find pristine ahi (tuna) in a variety of poke seasonings, from the classic shoyu (soy sauce and sesame oil) to the bright ume shiso (an herby, pickled plum concoction). If you need a break from poke (though I can’t imagine why), don’t miss the chirashi donburi featuring a variety of super-fresh sashimi. Better yet, get both. (There’s also a Chinatown location inside Kekaulike Market, open for lunch.)
421 Lewers St., Waikiki, Honolulu. 808/230-3470. Bowls $9–$14. Mon–Sat 5:30pm–9pm.
going local: Uniquely Hawaiian Eats
Talk to locals who move away from Hawaii, and these are the foods they miss. Everyone’s got their own go-to place and go-to dishes—people here could spend hours arguing over the best. Here are some of my favorites:
Poke Ruby-red cubes of fresh 'ahi (tuna), tossed with limu (seaweed), kukui nut, and Hawaiian chili pepper: Ahi poke (pronounced “po-kay”) doesn’t get better than the Hawaiian-style version at Ono Seafood 
(p. 147) or any variety at Maguro Brothers (p. 145).
Saimin An only-in-Hawaii mashup of Chinese-style noodles in a Japanese dashi broth. Join the regulars at the communal table at Palace Saimin, 1256 N. King St. ( 808/841-9983), where the interior is as simple as this bowl of noodles. Palace Saimin has been around since 1946, and it looks like it. (I mean that in the nicest way possible.)
Loco moco Two sunny-side up eggs over a hamburger patty and rice, all doused in brown gravy. I love it at Liliha Bakery (p. 155).
Spam musubi Ah yes, Spam. Hawaii eats more Spam per capita than any other state. A dubious distinction to some, but don’t knock it before you try it. Spam musubi (think of it as a giant sushi topped with Spam) is so ubiquitous you can find it at 7-Elevens and convenience stores (where it’s pretty good). But for an even finer product, Mana Bu, 1618 S. King St. ( 808/358-0287), is the tops. Get there early; the musubi, made fresh daily, are often sold out by 9am.
Hawaiian plate Laulau (pork wrapped in taro leaves), kālua pig (shredded, roasted pork), poi (milled taro), and haupia (like coconut Jell-O): It’s Hawaiian lū'au food, based on what native Hawaiians used to eat. Find it at Helena’s Hawaiian Food (p. 154) and Highway Inn (p. 150).
Malasadas Hole-less doughnuts, rolled in sugar, by way of Portugal. Leonard’s Bakery, 933 Kapahulu Ave. ( 808/737-5571), opened in 1946 by the descendants of Portuguese contract laborers brought to work in Hawaii’s sugarcane fields. I love Leonard’s malasadas dusted with li hing mui powder (made from dried, sweet-tart plums).
Shave ice Nothing cools better on a hot day than powdery-soft ice drenched in tropical fruit syrups. I go to Waiola Shave Ice, 3113 Mokihana St. ( 808/735-8886), for the nostalgia factor, but since you’ll probably need more than one shave ice while you’re in town, also hit up Uncle Clay's House of Pure Aloha, 820 W. Hind Dr. #116 ( 808/373-5111) and at Ala Moana Center, which offers a variety of homemade syrups from real fruit (a rarity).
Marukame Udon JAPANESE/UDON There’s always a massive line out the door at this cafeteria-style noodle joint, but it moves quickly. Pass the time by watching the cooks roll out and cut the dough for udon right in front of you. Bowls of udon, hot or cold, with toppings such as a soft poached egg or Japanese curry, are all under $7.
2310 Kuhio Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.toridollusa.com. 808/931-6000. Noodles $4–$7. Daily 11am–10pm.
Ramen Nakamura JAPANESE/RAMEN Squeeze into this narrow ramen bar, grab a seat at the U-shaped counter, and get ready to slurp some noodles. It’s famous for its oxtail ramen (think of oxtail like ribs—meaty chunks eaten off the bone—but from the tail), served with a side of fresh grated ginger and soy sauce for dipping. The spicy ramen is also a winner.
2141 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. 808/922-7960. Noodles $10–$22. Daily 11am–11:30pm.
The Street FOOD HALL Chef and restaurateur Michael Mina has more than 30 restaurants across the U.S. (and Dubai); this, though not strictly a restaurant, but a lively, upscale food court, is his most fun concept. It brings together seven chefs, each serving a distinct cuisine. Standouts include Mina’s own Little Lafa, with Mediterranean flavors on flatbread; barbecue from International Smoke; and shave ice, made from real fruit, at Aloha Ice.
2330 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.thestreetsocialhouse.com. 808/377-4402. Entrees $11–$30. Daily 11am–9pm.
Waikiki Yokocho JAPANESE FOOD HALL What used to be a nondescript basement food court has been reimagined as yokocho—literally, alleyways off a main street, but often referring to the small bars and eateries in these narrow lanes. Here, you’ll find tiny restaurants—some with just a few tables—dishing out tempura, sushi, and ramen, as well as a Japanese whiskey and cocktail bar in the center. For dessert, finish off with a matcha parfait or soft serve at Nana’s Green Tea.
At the Waikiki Shopping Plaza, 2250 Kalākaua Ave., Waikiki, Honolulu. www.waikiki-yokocho.com. 808/926-8093. Items from $10. Daily 11am–10pm.
Honolulu Beyond Waikiki
Kapahulu
Moderate
Side Street Inn on Da Strip LOCAL This newer and bigger version of Side Street Inn opened in 2010. You can still go to the original one near Ala Moana for the divey, locals-only atmosphere, but I’ve found that the food is better prepared at this location, even though it’s pretty much the same menu of fried pork chops and kimchi fried rice with bacon, Portuguese sausage, and char siu. Portion sizes are as big as ever.
614 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu. www.sidestreetinn.com. 808/739-3939. Starters $8–$14; main courses $13–$23. Mon–Fri 3–11:30pm; Sat–Sun 1–11:30pm.
Inexpensive
Ono Seafood LOCAL This little seafood counter serves some of Honolulu’s freshest and best poke—cubes of ruby-red ahi (tuna) seasoned to order with soy sauce and onions for the shoyu poke or limu (seaweed) and Hawaiian salt for Hawaiian-style poke.
747 Kapahulu Ave., Apt. 4, Honolulu. 808/732-4806. Poke bowls around $8. Mon and Wed–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10am–3pm.
Ala Moana & Kakaako
Expensive
MW HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE Michelle Karr-Ueoka and Wade Ueoka, the wife-and-husband team in the kitchen, are Alan Wong alums, and here they give their own take on Hawaii Regional Cuisine. What that means at MW is local comfort food re-envisioned for fine dining. An ahi poke dish turns the familiar staple into something unexpected, with spicy tuna, ikura, 'ahi, and uni topped with crispy rice crackers. Oxtail soup becomes oxtail, deboned and stuffed with more meat, and set on beef-stew risotto. Desserts outshine the entrees, though, such as a chocolate banana cream pie layered into a jar or a lemon meringue brûlée, full of custard, chewy jellies, and lemon sorbet and sealed with a torched sugar crust. You’ve never had anything like it.
1538 Kapiolani Blvd., #107, Honolulu. www.mwrestaurant.com. 808/955-6505. Reservations recommended. Lunch $14–$26; dinner main courses $24–$36; desserts $9. Mon–Sat 10:30am–10pm; Sun 10:30am–9pm.
Sushi Sasabune SUSHI This formerly austere restaurant has been updated with faux maple trees that reflect the progression of seasons. But if you think that means that Seiji Kumagawa, aka the “Sushi Nazi,” has also softened up, you’d be mistaken. Sitting at his sushi bar and submitting to the omakase menu means you’ll eat what he decides to feed you, and you’ve given up all control of your own soy sauce and wasabi dish. Follow his orders (dip gently in soy sauce only when instructed), and your reward is gorgeous orbs of house-cured ikura, scallop dusted with yuzu kosho (a citrusy, peppery condiment), mackerel topped with a translucent sheet of seaweed, and fish you may have never heard of. The rice is just as important—watch how Kumagawa molds it, just so, and then feel it break apart softly in your mouth, melding with the fish. This is sushi art. Tip: For sushi without the stress, sit at a table, where you’re free to order sushi a la carte.
1417 S. King St., Honolulu. 808/947-3800. Reservations recommended. Sushi $5–$50; omakase $80–$100 per person. Tues–Fri noon–2pm and Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm.
Moderate
Highway Inn HAWAIIAN/LOCAL The original Highway Inn in Waipahu opened in 1947, serving Hawaiian food such as laulau (pork wrapped in taro leaves and steamed), kalua pig (smoky, roasted pork), and poi (mashed taro). Also on the menu: classic American fare such as beef stew and hamburgers, recipes that founder Seiichi Toguchi picked up in internment-camp mess halls during World War II. For decades, Highway Inn remained a snapshot of food in post-war Hawaii. Then, in 2012, it opened a location in Honolulu and introduced a few twists, such as a Smokin’ Moco—smoked meat over rice and topped with two eggs—and a hoio salad, made with locally gathered fiddlehead ferns. The old favorites still remain, though, in the newer plantation-era-style restaurant.
680 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu. www.myhighwayinn.com. 808/954-4955. Plates $10–$14. Mon–Thurs 8:30am–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 8:30am–9pm; Sun 9am–2:30pm.
Moku Kitchen MODERN AMERICAN/ HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE Fun cocktails, cold beers, plates made for sharing, burgers, and live music make Moku Kitchen a lively place to refuel. This is the latest concept from chef Peter Merriman, one of the original Hawaii Regional Cuisine founders, and it’s a crowd pleaser. The kale salad and vegetable roasted plate are winners for vegetarians, while the prime rib and duck that come out of the rotisserie oven satisfy the carnivores.
660 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu. www.mokukitchen.com. 808/591-6658. Plates $10–$31. Daily 11am–11pm.
Piggy Smalls MODERN VIETNAMESE Don’t miss the pho-strami at The Pig and the Lady’s sibling restaurant; with this being the edgier little brother. The sandwich pairs a pho-spiced beef pastrami with pickled mustard seeds and a side of broth for dipping. Save room for dessert, including a slushy float with flavors that change weekly.
1200 Ala Moana Blvd. Suite 665, Honolulu. www.thepigandthelady.com/piggysmalls. 808/777-3589. Plates $14–$20. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm and 5:30–9:30pm; Sun 11am–4pm.
Sura Hawaii KOREAN This is Honolulu’s hippest Korean barbecue restaurant, where different cuts of high-quality pork and beef sizzle on the tabletop grill in front of you. The atmosphere draws young and old alike, with everyone reaching over for bits of meat to dip into the moat of corn cheese and egg custard warmed by the grill. Servers are quick and cheerful—call them by pressing a button on the table—and happy to replenish the banchan, or little side dishes, until you can’t eat anymore. If only all eating experiences were this fun!
1726 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu. www.sura-hawaii.com. 808/941-6678. Reservations recommended. Combo meal for 2–3 people $44–$55. Sun–Thurs 11am–1am; Fri–Sat 11am–2am.
Tempura Ichidai JAPANESE This is the tempura version of a cocktail bar, serving the best tempura on the island. Sit at the counter and watch the chefs fry each piece right in front of you and place it on the rack on your plate in stages (so it doesn’t get soggy from the steam). The tempura is light, crisp, and practically greaseless. The impeccably fresh sashimi is terrific, too.
At Ala Moana Shopping Center, third floor. 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu. www.tempuraichidai.com. 808/955-8899. Entrees $15–$29. Daily 11am–10pm.
Inexpensive
Aloha Beer Co. BREWERY Drinking in carports, like the poor man’s lanai, is a Hawaii thing. You can approximate it at this craft brewery’s warehouse digs, where the atmosphere is casual and the tables communal. Choose from about a dozen beers, some seasonal and experimental, which range from light session beers to extra-hoppy IPAs. Pair them with any of the hearty sandwiches or the excellent bratwurst.
700 Queen St., Honolulu. www.alohabeer.com. 808/544-1605. Sandwiches and small plates $9–$16. Mon–Sat 4pm–11pm.
Downtown/Chinatown
Moderate
Fête MODERN AMERICAN In a space that’s come to define the new modern Chinatown aesthetic—lofty ceilings and redbrick walls—chef Robynne Maii serves the food she craves. What that means: polished comfort food with no boundaries. You’ll find a carbonara with Portuguese sausage, a textbook-perfect burger, and a kalbi-marinated bavette steak. This is also one of my favorite places for a cocktail, from the classics to those with subtle hints of the Pacific.
2 N. Hotel St., Honolulu. www.fetehawaii.com. 808/369-1390. Entrees $18–$55. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm.
Little Village Noodle House CHINESE For almost every year it’s been open, Little Village has been awarded Best Chinese Restaurant by readers of local publications. It’s Chinese food geared toward local tastes, but that doesn’t mean it’s not tasty. Added plus: a clean, charming interior decorated with Christmas lights and bamboo, a nice change from the sometimes harsh spaces of Chinatown’s other restaurants. I like the Shanghai mochi stir fry, honey walnut shrimp, dried green beans, and beef chow fun.
1113 Smith St., Honolulu. www.littlevillagehawaii.com. 808/545-3008. Most items under $17. Sun–Thurs 10:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 10:30am–midnight.
Livestock Tavern AMERICAN For the past 2 decades, restaurateurs and artists have been trying to revitalize Chinatown, which, in the second half of the 20th century, became more well known as a red-light district than a place to eat and hang out. Restaurateurs Jesse Cruz and Dusty Grable have helped make Chinatown a destination with their eateries—Lucky Belly, which serves modern Asian comfort food; Tchin Tchin!, a bar and lounge with an incomparable wine list; and Livestock Tavern. All are great, but Livestock Tavern is my favorite, serving modern American food at its finest, with an excellent cocktail menu to boot. The menu changes seasonally (yes, even Hawaii has seasons, however subtle), with heartier dishes like a mushroom bread pudding in the winter and lighter options such as the grilled catch of the day in the summer. The hamburger is a staple on the menu, and it’s one of Honolulu’s best.
49 N. Hotel St., Honolulu. www.livestocktavern.com. 808/537-2577. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$32. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm and 5–10pm.
Murphy’s Bar and Grill IRISH Maybe you didn’t come to Honolulu to hang out in an Irish bar. But if you did, Murphy’s is the place to be. At lunch, it’s packed with downtown businessmen tucking into Blarney Burgers (a hamburger with Guinness cheese) or open-face turkey sandwiches. After work, this is one of Honolulu’s favorite pau hana (after-work) spots with great wings, local beers on draft (get anything from Maui Brewing Co.), and some of the friendliest bartenders in town. You would expect nothing less from an Irish bar.
2 Merchant St., Honolulu. www.murphyshawaii.com. 808/531-0422. Main courses $12–$23. Lunch daily 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Sun–Wed 5:30–9pm; Thurs–Sat 5:30–10pm.
The Pig and the Lady MODERN VIETNAMESE It’s one of Chinatown’s liveliest dining rooms, with brick walls, long communal tables hewed from single slabs of mango wood, benches reupholstered with burlap rice bags, and a rotating display of fun, bright prints by local, young artists. The Pig and the Lady introduces you to a world of Vietnamese noodle soups beyond pho—such as one with oxtail, another with crab and tomato. But Chef Andrew Le also applies creative twists to Southeast Asian food for unique eats like a pho French dip banh mi—an absolute must with its melting slices of braised brisket, smeared with a bright Thai basil chimichurri and served with a side of pho broth for dipping. Everything is en pointe here, from the cocktails to the dessert.
83 N. King St., Honolulu. www.thepigandthelady.com. 808/383-2152. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$30. Mon–Fri 10:30am–2pm; Sat 10:30am–3pm; Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm.
See Honolulu—one restaurant at a time. Former Honolulu newspaper food critic Matthew Gray put together Hawaii Food Tours to give you a taste of Hawaii. He offers two tours, all with transportation from your Waikiki hotel in an air-conditioned van and all with running commentary on Hawaii’s history, culture, and architecture. The Hole-in-the-Wall Tour, a lunch tour from 9am to 2pm ($139 per person), includes stops at Honolulu institutions, a noodle factory, and a behind-the-scenes look at Chinatown. You’ll sample some only-in-Hawaii treats. For details and booking, go to www.hawaiifoodtours.com or call 808/926-FOOD.
Senia MODERN AMERICAN This is one of Honolulu’s newest and most exciting restaurants, where something as ordinary as cabbage can surprise and delight. Senia, deriving from “xenia,” the Greek word for hospitality, is a rare mesh of the fine dining and comfort food worlds. The food is fancy—bone marrow custard, foie gras terrine, and pretty presentations of smoked salmon with date and cauliflower—but the flavors are accessible, the setting leans casual, and the prices are moderate. The menu changes frequently, but will always be a combination of surprise and comfort.
75 N. King St., Honolulu. www.restaurantsenia.com 808/200-5412. Reservations recommended. Small plates $12–$22. Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm.
Inexpensive
Char Hung Sut LOCAL CHINESE For locals, this 60-year-old Chinatown institution is synonymous with manapua, Hawaii’s version of Chinese char siu bao. At Char Hung Sut, they’re big, fluffy steamed buns stuffed with slightly sweet, shredded pork. Go early and watch them being made right in front of you. It’s takeout only here—the shop is more factory than restaurant. Also try the pork hash (also known as siu mai on the Mainland)—juicy ground pork steamed in wonton-style wrappers.
64 N. Pauahi St., Honolulu. 808/538-3335. Under $10. Cash only. Mon and Wed–Sat 5:30am–2pm; Sun 5:30am–1pm.
To Chau VIETNAMESE PHO Is there anything on the menu other than pho? I couldn’t even tell you. I just walk in, order a medium number 9, meat outside, and iced coffee with milk. What arrives: strong, black coffee percolating into a mug and a cup of ice and condensed milk. When the coffee is finished brewing, dump it into the cup and stir. By that time, you’ll have a plate mounded with bean sprouts, Thai basil, sawtooth coriander, jalapeños, and lemon wedges. Soon after, the bowl of pho arrives, with flank, tendon, and tripe, as well as slices of rare steak on the side to dip into the hot brothlike fondue. You can also get your pho with all the meat in and just steak if you want; there are 14 possible combinations. That’s the only hard choice in this Chinatown eatery. Getting the pho and Vietnamese coffee shouldn’t be one.
1007 River St., Honolulu. 808/533-4549. Reservations not accepted. All items under $10. Cash only. Mon–Fri 8:30am–2:30pm.
Kalihi/Liliha/Sand Island
Moderate
La Mariana Sailing Club AMERICAN Only one authentic vintage tiki bar remains in Honolulu, and it’s in the industrial wasteland near the airport (which makes it awfully convenient to have your last drink here before getting on the plane). But once you enter, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back into 1955, the year La Mariana opened. It’s pure kitsch, with glass floats and puffer fish lamps hanging from the ceiling. Come for a mai tai or a Zombie and watch the sunset over the docked sailboats. Stay for the live piano entertainment nightly, when regulars croon their favorite Hawaiian and American songs. You’re here more for the ambience and entertainment than for the forgettable food.
50 Sand Island Rd., Honolulu. www.lamarianasailingclub.com. 808/848-2800. Reservations recommended, especially Sat–Sun. Main courses $8–$16 lunch, $15–$29 dinner. Daily 11am–9pm. Turn makai (toward the ocean) on Sand Island Rd. from Nimitz Hwy.; immediately after the first light on Sand Island, take a right and drive toward the ocean; it’s not far from the airport.
Mitch’s Sushi SUSHI The family that owns Mitch’s Sushi also owns a seafood import business, which is why Mitch’s has some of the freshest fish around. It’s one of Honolulu’s most expensive sushi bars, as well as its most casual, a place where slippers (local lingo for flip-flops) and T-shirts are the norm, along with a cooler of beer (Mitch’s is BYOB). Here you’ll find New Zealand salmon, as luxurious as fatty tuna belly, and Mitch’s famous lobster sashimi, which you inspect as it’s brought to your table, alive and kicking, and then sample in the form of sashimi and lobster miso soup.
524 Ohohia St., Honolulu. www.mitchssushi.com. 808/837-7774. Reservations recommended. Sushi $4–$30. Daily 11:30am–8:30pm.
Inexpensive
Helena’s Hawaiian Food HAWAIIAN Definitely seek out this humble little restaurant, winner of the James Beard Regional Classics award in 2000. When first-generation-Chinese Helen Chock started Helena’s in 1946 (she added an “a” at the end to make it sound more “Hawaiian”), she served Chinese and Hawaiian food. Eventually, she pared down the menu to the most popular items—Hawaiian food such as laulau, kalua pig, and poi. Sixty years later, her grandson runs the place, and it’s as popular as ever. What makes Helena’s stand out among other Hawaiian food restaurants? The pipikaula: marinated, bone-in short ribs hung above the stove to dry and fried right before they land on your table.
1240 N. School St., Honolulu. www.helenashawaiianfood.com. 808/845-8044. Full meals $9–$20. Cash only. Tues–Fri 10am–7:30pm.
Liliha Bakery AMERICAN/LOCAL It’s a bakery, well known for its Coco Puffs (similar to cream puffs), but it’s also one of Oahu’s favorite old-school diners, beloved by young and old alike. Sit at the counter and watch the ladies expertly man the flattop and grill, turning out light and fluffy pancakes, crisp and seriously buttery waffles, loaded country-style omelets, and satisfying hamburgers and hamburger steaks. There’s a newer location on Nimitz, but I prefer the ambience of the original.
515 N. Kuakini St., Honolulu. www.lilihabakeryhawaii.com. 808/531-1651. Most items under $10. Open 24 hr. from Tues at 6am to Sun at 8pm.
Nico’s at Pier 38 FRESH FISH Nico’s has expanded from a hole-in-the-wall to a gleaming, open-air restaurant almost four times its original size. The food isn’t quite as good as it used to be, but it’s still one of the best places around to get fresh fish plates for under $20. I also love its setting along the industrial waterfront, where Hawaii’s commercial fishing fleet resides—this isn’t a fake fisherman’s wharf but the real deal. Popular dishes here are the furikake pan-seared ‘ahi and the catch-of-the-day special—perhaps opah sauced with tomato beurre blanc or swordfish topped with crab bisque (the chef, Nico Chaize, is French born). As part of the expansion, there’s also a fish market next door where you can take out fresh poke and smoked swordfish to eat on the tables outside. Renting a place with a kitchen? Pick up fresh fish filets to take home and cook. (There’s also a new location in Kailua.)
Pier 38, 1129 N. Nimitz Hwy., Honolulu. www.nicospier38.com. 808/540-1377. Takeout orders accepted by phone. Lunch $8–$13; dinner $14–$26. Mon–Sat 6:30am–9pm; Sun 10am–9pm.
Manoa Valley/Moiliili/Makiki
Expensive
Alan Wong’s Restaurant HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE Alan Wong was one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, which championed Hawaii farmers and local flavors back in the ’90s when most restaurants were of the Continental variety and flying in frozen seafood and meat. Wong brought uniquely local flavors to the fine-dining table, in dishes such as a ginger-crusted onaga, soy-braised short ribs, and li hing mui tomato salad. To this day, Alan Wong’s remains one of Honolulu’s best restaurants. The menu retains many of the classics, but for newer dishes, try the chef’s tasting menu, which features the kitchen’s latest, creative dishes, such as a pan-seared opakapaka on kimchi risotto or Maui Cattle Co. rib steak with a beef and foie gras “burger.”
1857 S. King St., 3rd floor, Honolulu. www.alanwongs.com. 808/949-2526. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $28–$55; tasting menu $85 ($125 with wine). Daily 5–10pm.
Chef Mavro Restaurant HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE James Beard Award–winner George Mavrothalassitis melds his French background with pristine Hawaiian ingredients for one of Hawaii’s top fine-dining experiences. The menu changes quarterly to reflect the seasons. A recent menu featured onaga baked in a Hawaiian salt crust, lamb loin with a vadouvan curry, and liliko'i malasadas. Four- and six-course menus are offered. Wine is only available as pairings for each course, which elevates the experience to divine.
1969 S. King St., Honolulu. www.chefmavro.com. 808/944-4714. Reservations recommended. Prix-fixe menu $105–$148 ($162–$211 with wine pairings). Tues–Sun 6–9pm.
Sushi Izakaya Gaku JAPANESE There is life beyond maguro and hamachi nigiri, and the best place to experience it is at Izakaya Gaku. The Izakaya restaurants embrace small plates as the best way to eat and drink with friends; although Honolulu offers many of them, Izakaya Gaku is the best. Here you can get uncommon seasonal sushi and seafood, such as wild yellowtail and grilled ray. One of the best dishes here is a hamachi tartare, with hamachi scraped off the bones and topped with tobiko and raw quail egg, served with sheets of crisp nori. But you’re not likely to be disappointed with any dish.
1329 S. King St., Honolulu. 808/589-1329. Reservations highly recommended. Sashimi $12–$40; small plates $4–$13. Mon–Sat 5–11pm.
Moderate
Gazen JAPANESE/SUSHI This spot, perpetually packed with locals, is the best of the mid-range izakaya, a Japanese pub with snacks made for sharing. Don’t miss the fresh, homemade tofu sampler (it will change your opinion of tofu forever); mochi agedashi (fried sticky rice balls in dashi); daikon salad, an explosion of textures; and the fresh fish carpaccio. Finish off with the fried sweet potato mochi.
2840 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu. www.e-k-c.co.jp/gazen/honolulu. 808/737-0230. Reservations recommended. Plates $7–$50. Thurs–Tue 4:30–11pm.
Inexpensive
Jimbo’s Restaurant JAPANESE Jimbo’s offers fresh noodles made by hand—or should we say foot? To give the udon noodles their characteristic chew, Jimbo’s cooks stomp on the noodle dough (wrapped, of course) before rolling it out. Enjoy it cold with a dipping sauce or hot in a shoyu and dashi-based broth. For sumo-sized appetites, get the nabeyaki udon, brought to the table in a heavy pot and filled with udon, vegetable and shrimp tempura, chicken, and an egg.
1936 S. King St., Honolulu. 808/947-2211. Main courses $10–$14. Daily 11am–2:30pm and 5–9:45pm (Fri–Sat until 10:30pm).
Kaimuki
Moderate
Mud Hen Water MODERN HAWAIIAN This is the sister restaurant to Town (see below). Whereas Town is Italian in its flavors, Mud Hen Water draws inspiration from all of the cultures influencing Hawaii. What that translates into: mapo tofu gravy and biscuits for brunch and ia lawalu, fish wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled over an open fire. You won’t find dishes like this anywhere else. Plates are small and made for sharing.
3452 Waialae Ave. (at 9th St.), Honolulu. www.mudhenwater.com. 808/737-6000. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. Small plates $8–$28. Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm (Fri–Sat until midnight).
Town CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Town’s motto is “Local first, organic whenever possible, with Aloha always.” Chef/owner Ed Kenney lovingly showcases local ingredients: in a pork sugo on the lightest gnocchi you may ever have, or as the seasonal produce tossed with hand-cut pasta. Kenney definitely has a way with pork: If you see it on the menu—as charcuterie, porchetta, or roasted shoulder—get it. I also love the mussels in a fennel and Cinzano broth. Order it with a side of fries, and use them to soak up all the goodness. Also worth checking out: Kaimuki Superette across the street, Chef Kenney’s casual breakfast and lunch spot specializing in sandwiches.
3435 Waialae Ave. (at 9th St.), Honolulu. www.townkaimuki.com. 808/735-5900. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. Main courses $9–$16 lunch, $16–$26 dinner. Mon–Sat 7am–2:30pm and 5:30–9:30pm (Fri–Sat until 10pm).
12th Ave Grill CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Outside of Waikiki and the Keeaumoku region, Honolulu lacks dense, walkable neighborhoods—it’s more like L.A. than San Francisco. One of the few urban neighborhoods is Kaimuki, with a cluster of some of Honolulu’s best restaurants. This is one of them, with a menu leaning towards comfort food, like baked mac ’n’ cheese, and locally raised meat, such as pork chops with potato pancakes and rib eye on fresh pappardelle. Another reason why I love this place? It’s the rare restaurant that serves good food and good cocktails. Tip: Sit in the bar area during opening or closing hours, when the bar serves a special menu of extremely satisfying hamburgers and meatloaf sandwiches, and nothing costs more than $10.
1120 12th Ave., Honolulu. www.12thavegrill.com. 808/732-9469. Reservations recommended. Small plates $7–$13; large plates $23–$36. Daily 5:30–11pm.
Inexpensive
Koko Head Café BREAKFAST/BRUNCH This “island-style brunch house” offers inspired takes on breakfast favorites. There’s the cornflake French toast, extra crunchy on the outside and custardy on the inside, crowned with frosted flake gelato, and the Don Buri Chen, a rice bowl for carnivores, with miso-smoked pork, five-spice pork belly, and eggs.
1145c 12th Ave., Honolulu. www.kokoheadcafe.com. 808/732-8920. Main courses $9–$16. Daily 7am–2:30pm.
Via Gelato DESSERT When you’ve had your fill of shave ice, come here for gelato churned daily in island-inspired flavors such as guava, lychee, strawberry, and ume (salted plum). It’s a tough decision, though, choosing between those and other favorites such as green tea Oreo and black sesame. The flavors change daily. Be sure to get here early on weekend nights before they run out.
1142 12th Ave., Honolulu. www.viagelatohawaii.com. 808/732-2800. Scoops starting at $3. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm (Fri–Sat until 11pm).
To the East: Diamond Head & Kāhala
Expensive
Arancino at the Kahala MODERN ITALIAN This, Arancino’s third location (the other two are in Waikiki), opened in 2013. Befitting its new digs, it isn’t a casual trattoria; it’s meant to be a fine-dining destination with a dress code (pants and shoes required for men). Menu standouts include a bagna cauda, with the vegetables planted in a pot of cremini mushroom “dirt”; grilled calamari, shrimp, and seafood over housemade squid-ink chitarra; and a decadent uni spaghetti. For a town surprisingly short on alfresco dining, especially outside of Waikiki, Arancino at the Kahala is a breath of fresh air (even if it is facing the Kahala Resort’s valet).
At the Kahala Hotel Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave., Honolulu. www.kahalaresort.com. 808/380-4400. Reservations recommended. Collared shirts and long pants required for men. Main courses $18–$32 lunch; $18–$80 dinner. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm.
Inexpensive
Diamond Head Market & Grill AMERICAN/LOCAL Here you’ll find some of our favorite plate lunches, near the base of Diamond Head. For breakfast, the pancakes with mac nuts or pineapple are a winner, or start the morning with a savory plate like the kimchi fried rice. Lunch and dinner offer tasty ahi steaks and kalbi (Korean-marinated short ribs). Don’t miss dessert: The lemon crunch cake is the perfect capper to a Diamond Head hike.
3158 Monsarrat Ave., Honolulu. www.diamondheadmarket.com. 808/732-0077. Plates $6–$17. Daily 6:30am–9pm.
East Oahu
Expensive
Roy’s Restaurant HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE This is the original Roy’s, the one that launched more than 30 Roy’s restaurants around the world (6 of them in Hawaii). One of Hawaii Regional Cuisine’s most famous founders, Roy Yamaguchi started fusing local flavors and ingredients with European techniques some 20 years ago. The original menu items are still here, such as blackened island ahi with spicy soy mustard and Roy’s famous melting-hot chocolate soufflé. Sit on the lanai to watch the sunset over Maunalua Bay.
6600 Kalanianaole Hwy., Hawaii Kai. www.roysrestaurant.com. 808/396-7697. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$40; 3-course prix-fixe $42. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri 5:30–9:30pm; Sat 5–9:30pm; Sun 5–9pm.
The Shrimp Trucks |
Shrimp farming took hold in Kahuku in the ’90s and, before long, the first shrimp truck set up, serving fresh shrimp from a lunch wagon window. Now you can smell the garlic cooking before you see all the trucks and shrimp shacks—at least five, by last count. Giovanni’s Original White Shrimp Truck, 56-505 Kamehameha Hwy. ( 808/293-1839), is the most popular—so popular that a makeshift food court with picnic tables, shade, and a handful of other businesses has sprung up around the beat-up old white truck scrawled with tourists’ signatures. Even though the shrimp are now imported and previously frozen, Giovanni’s knows how to cook them perfectly. Scampi style is my favorite—shell-on shrimp coated in lots of butter and garlic. Twelve bucks gets you a dozen, plus two scoops of rice. Head north from Giovanni’s about a mile, and you’ll hit Romy’s, 56-781 Kamehameha Hwy. ( 808/232-2202), a shrimp shack instead of a truck. Here the shrimp actually come from the farm behind it. Romy’s is my favorite for the sauce—tons of sautéed and fried garlic over a half-pound of head-on shrimp, plus a container of spicy soy sauce for dipping. The shrimp, however, are inconsistent—sometimes firm and sweet, sometimes mealy.
The Windward Coast
Note: The following restaurants are located on the “Eastern Oahu & the Windward Coast” map (p. 97).
Moderate
Prima ITALIAN Oahu’s best Neopolitan-style pizzas come out of the wood-burning oven at Prima. What that translates into: a thin crust that gives way to puffy edges, spare toppings, fresh-pulled mozzarella, and a bright, San Marzano tomato sauce. Sample a classic margherita pizza or my favorite, the Five P, with pickled piquillo pepper, pepperoncini, and pepperoni.
108 Hekili St. #107, Kailua. www.primahawaii.com. 808/888-8933. Pizzas $16–$22. Sun–Thurs 10am–9pm; Fri–Sat 10am–9:30pm.
Inexpensive
Ai Love Nalo LOCAL/VEGAN This roadside gem offers a plant-based take on local favorites, such as the laulau, here a package of kalo (taro, a staple in the Hawaiian diet), ulu (breadfruit), Okinawan sweet potato, and carrot, all bundled in a luau leaf (taro leaf) and slow-cooked in coconut milk. Everything is lovely and full of flavor. Try the poi parfait or the soft serve, both topped with fresh, seasonal fruit and toasted cacao coconut flakes.
41-1025 Kalanianaole Hwy., Waimanalo. www.ailovenalo.com. 808/888-9102. Everything under $11. Wed–Mon 9am–5pm.
Hale Kealoha Restaurant LOCAL Eating here feels like hanging out at a friend’s backyard lū 'au, complete with foldout picnic tables and chairs and Christmas lights. On Saturday nights, there’s even live Hawaiian music. Order the Pa Paina plate for the full experience, a Hawaiian plate lunch with all the fixin’s—kalua pig, chicken long rice, squid luau, lomi salmon, poke, rice, poi, haupia, uala (sweet potato), and mamaki tea.
120 Hekili St., Kailua. www.halekealoharestaurant.com. 808/262-1100. Plates $10–$28. Wed–Thurs 10am–8pm, Fri–Sat 10am–10pm.
The sun is setting, the tiki torches are lit, the pig is taken from the imu (an oven in the earth), the pu (conch) sounds—it’s luau time! Few experiences say “Hawaii” to visitors as the luau. In ancient times, the luau was called aha aina (aha means means gathering and aina, land); these were celebrations with family and friends to mark important occasions, such as a victory at war or a baby surviving its first year. Luau are still a part of life in Hawaii; in particular, the legacy of the baby’s first luau lives on.
For visitors, luau are a way to experience a feast of food and entertainment, Hawaiian style. The luau at the Royal Hawaiian, 2259 Kalakaua Ave. (www.royal-hawaiian.com; 888/808-4668), is the priciest of all the options, but it’s the only beachfront one in Waikiki and it offers the best food, an open bar, and quality entertainment. It takes place every Monday from 5:30 to 9pm and costs $179 for adults, $101 for children 5 to 12.
About an hour outside of Waikiki on the Leeward coast, Paradise Cove Luau, 92-1089 Alii Nui Dr., Kapolei (www.paradisecovehawaii.com; 808/842-5911), is a popular option. It has a lovely setting, perfect for sunset photos, and the evening starts with arts and crafts and activities for kids. As for the buffet, you’ll find better food at the Hawaiian restaurants listed on p. 141. Waikiki bus pickup and return is included in the package prices: Paradise Cove’s luau is nightly at 6pm and costs $85 to $156 for adults, $75 to $137 for teens 13 to 18, $65 to $123 for children 4 to 12, and free for children 3 and under.
Moke’s Bread and Breakfast BREAKFAST/BRUNCH Of all the pancake joints in Kailua, Moke’s is my pick—their lilikoi pancakes are unparalleled. A light passion fruit cream sauce cascades over tender, fluffy pancakes, a perfect blend of tart and sweet, simple and decadent. Other staples, such as the loco moco and omelets, are also spot-on.
27 Hoolai St., Kailua. www.mokeskailua.com. 808/261-5565. Entrees $8–$14. Wed–Mon 6:30am–2pm.
Over Easy BREAKFAST/BRUNCH There’s stiff competition in the brunch market in Kailua, so when Over Easy opened up we wondered, Do we really need another breakfast spot? Judging from the lines, yes, we do. There’s a lot of care put into the short menu, from the light, crisp-edged pancakes to the kalua pig hash, brightened with a green goddess dressing.
418 Kuulei Rd. Kailua. www.overeasyhi.com. 808/260-1732. Entrees $8–$14. Tues–Fri 7am–1pm, Sat–Sun 7am–1:30pm.
Waiahole Poi Factory LOCAL On your way up the Windward side, stop by this ramshackle, roadside spot (one side is a gallery for Native Hawaiian arts). You’ll find the classic Hawaiian plate lunch, with smoky kalua pig, succulent laulau, and fresh poi made onsite. Linger a little longer over the kulolo (a sticky dessert made with taro and coconut), served warm and topped with a scoop of coconut ice cream.
48-140 Kamehameha Hwy., Waiahole. www.waiaholepoifactory.com. 808/239-2222. Plates $7.50–$12. Daily 10am–6pm.
The North Shore
Note: The following are on the “Oahu’s North Shore” map (p. 105).
Moderate
Haleiwa Beach House AMERICAN/LOCAL When you tire of the North Shore food trucks, come here. This newly renovated restaurant opens up to a fabulous view of Haleiwa beach park; come during pau hana (happy hour) when you can watch the sun set. Menu highlights include whole fried fish, kalua pig grilled cheese, and Beach House fries—thick, spiral-cut fries tossed with garlic and furikake.
62-540 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa. 808/637-3435. Lunch $12–$29; dinner $26–$36. Daily 11am–11pm.
Inexpensive
Beet Box Café VEGETARIAN For me, a perfect day on the North Shore involves waves and a stop at Beet Box. Warm wood paneling (upcycled, of course) welcomes you into the space. Veggie-forward fare comes in the form of satisfying sandwiches with portobello and feta or avocado and local greens. The breakfast burritos and smoothies are popular, too.
66-437 Kamehameha Hwy., Hale‘iwa. www.thebeetboxcafe.com. 808/637-3000. Breakfast and lunch $8–$12. Daily 7am–4pm.
The Elephant Shack THAI From truck to shack, this formerly roving mobile operation now has a cheerful, permanent spot with lots of outside seating that’s particularly charming at night, when the tabletop lanterns cast a warm glow. It serves up simple and fresh Thai food such as fish tossed in a tangy chili and lime vinaigrette or bamboo and chicken stir-fried with slightly chewy glass noodles. Staples such as green curry and pad thai are solid. Extra bonus: the menu is vegan-friendly, too.
66-145 Kamehameha Hwy., Haleiwa. www.808elephant.com 808/638-1854. Dishes $11–$19. Daily noon–9pm.
Kahuku Farms SANDWICHES & SNACKS Not a fan of shrimp? Then stop by Kahuku Farms’ Farm Café, where you can get a simple grilled veggie panini made with veggies all grown right here on the farm, and a smoothie with papaya and banana, also grown here. If I’m driving up this way, I always try to stop for the grilled banana bread topped with caramel and haupia (coconut) sauce and a scoop of ice cream. Yup, so decadent and so good.
56-800 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku. www.kahukufarms.com. 808/293-8159. Items $8–$10. Wed–Mon 11am–4pm.
Leeward Oahu: The Waianae Coast
Moderate
Monkeypod Kitchen AMERICAN This is the best dining option at Ko Olina Station, a strip mall of casual eateries servicing Ko Olina Resort. One of the latest ventures from Peter Merriman, who pioneered farm-to-table fine dining on the Big Island in the ’80s, Monkeypod is a larger, more casual restaurant (with another location on Maui). The vibe in this two-story space is welcoming and friendly, with live music on the lānai and a long bar with 36 (!) beers on tap. Expect fresh salads and entrees like fish and chips and burgers. I always go for the saimin, which is nothing like the traditional version you’ll find elsewhere; here it comes with kalua pork and fresh vegetables. To drink: the bracingly zingy housemade ginger beer. Tip: Want a more intimate bar experience? Head upstairs, where the bartenders spend a little more time making your cocktails, which include fresh takes on the mai tai (topped with a honey lilikoi foam) and the Makawao Ave., made with rye and that terrific ginger beer.
At Ko Olina Station, 92-1048 Olani St., Suite 4-107, Kapolei. www.monkeypodkitchen.com. 808/380-4086. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$35. Daily 11am–11pm.
Kahumana Café FARM The fare here is simple but fresh and tasty; the setting is right on an organic farm. Enjoy a salad or fresh veggie stir-fry while overlooking the herbs and vegetables grown right there. There aren’t a lot of eating options on the west side, which makes Kahumana Café even more welcome.
86-660 Lualualei Homestead Rd., Waianae. www.kahumana.org. 808/696-2655. Main courses $10–$15. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–8pm. Head up Farrington Hwy. and turn right on Mailiili Rd. Go straight for 2 miles, past Puhawai Rd. Continue until you reach the Kahumana gate. The cafe is the blue building at the end of the driveway.
The trend in Honolulu shopping of late has been toward luxury brands, catering to Japanese (and increasingly, Chinese) tourists and leading to the demise, at the end of 2013, of the International Marketplace. Truthfully, the open-air Waikiki marketplace had become a maze of kitschy junk, but it had a 56-year run, long enough for many people to feel sentimental about it. In its place the high-end International Marketplace mall anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue opened in 2016.
You can also find plenty of luxury goods at the new Ala Moana Center wing. But just as the luxury market is growing, so is Honolulu’s boutique culture and the vitality of the local crafts scene, as artisans endeavor to capture what makes Hawaii so unique. You’ll find the best boutique shopping in Chinatown and Haleiwa, but you’ll find gems even at the malls.
Shopping in & Around Honolulu & Waikiki
Clothing
The aloha shirt is alive and well, thanks to a revival of vintage aloha wear and the modern take, which features more subdued prints and slimmer silhouettes.
Vintage 1930s to 1950s Hawaiian wear is still beautiful, found in collectibles shops, such as the packed-to-the-rafters Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts, 517 Kapahulu Ave. ( 808/734-7628). Of the contemporary aloha-wear designers, one of the best Oahu-based ones is Tori Richard, who creates tasteful tropical prints in the form of linen and silk shirts for men and flowy dresses for women. Reyn Spooner, Ala Moana Center (www.reynspooner.com; 808/949-5929; with four other Oahu locations), is another source of attractive aloha shirts in traditional and contemporary styles; the new Modern Collection appeals to younger tastes, combining more fitted sleeves and a 1960s preppy look with some of Reyn Spooner’s classic prints. Also check out Kahala Sportswear, Ala Moana Center (www.kahala.com; 808/941-2444; with two other Oahu locations in Waikiki and Haleiwa), which has been designing aloha shirts since 1936 and remains an island favorite.
The hippest guys and gals go to Roberta Oaks, 19 N. Pauahi St. (www.robertaoaks.com; 808/428-1214), in Chinatown, where a slew of trendy boutiques has opened in recent years. Roberta Oaks ditches the too-big aloha shirt for a more stylish, fitted look, but keeps the vintage designs. Plus, she even has super-cute, tailored aloha shirts for the ladies. New to Chinatown, but a fixture in Hilo on Hawaii Island and in politicians’ closets are Sig Zane aloha shirts. At the Honolulu outpost, Sig on Smith, 1020 Smith St. (www.sigzanedesigns.com), you’ll find Zane’s designs inspired by native Hawaiian culture, such as plants significant to hula and patterns based off of Hawaiian legends. The Chinatown location also features limited-release capsule collections: visit the shop’s Instagram (www.instagram.com/sigonsmith) to see the latest.
Just 2 years after its launch, Manaola, Ala Moana Center (www.manaolahawaii.com; 808/944-8011) debuted to an international audience with its own runway show at New York Fashion Week. Native Hawaiian designer Manaola Yap creates clothing for both men and women, with prints that rely on repetition and symmetry to convey Hawaii’s natural beauty and oral stories.
Edibles
Nisshodo Candy Store Mochi (Japanese rice cake) is so essential to locals’ lives that even the drugstores sell it. But for the freshest and widest variety, go straight to the source: Nisshodo, an almost century-old business. Choose among pink-and-white chichi dango (or milk mochi), mochi filled with smooth azuki bean, monaka (delicate rice wafers sandwiching sweetened lima-bean paste), and much more. 1095 Dillingham Blvd. www.nisshodomochicandy.com. 808/847-1244.
Padovani’s Chocolates Brothers Philippe and Pierre Padovani are two of Hawaii’s best chefs, involved with the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement. In recent years, they’ve been devoting their attention to chocolate truffles. Their edible gems come in delightful flavors such as a calamansi (a small Filipino lime) and pirie mango ganache, flavored with fragrant, local mangoes picked at the height of the season. Other favorites incorporate ginger, Manoa honey, and lilikoi (passion fruit). You could pick up some of these to bring home, but I’m guessing they’ll never make it. 650 Iwilei Rd., #280. 808/536-4567.
Whole Foods Whole Foods does a great job of sourcing local, both in produce and in specialty items such as honey, jams, hot sauces, coffee, and chocolate. It’s also got one of the best selections of locally made soaps, great for gifts to take home. 4211 Waialae Ave at Kahala Mall. 808/738-0820. Two other locations on Oahu at Ward and Kailua.
Flowers & Leis
The best place to shop for leis is in Chinatown, where lei vendors line Beretania and Maunakea streets and the fragrances of their wares mix with the earthy scents of incense and ethnic foods. My top picks are Lita’s Leis, 59 N. Beretania St. ( 808/521-9065), which has fresh puakenikeni, gardenias that last, and a supply of fresh and reasonable leis; Lin’s Lei Shop, 1017-A Maunakea St. ( 808/537-4112), with creatively fashioned, unusual leis; and Cindy’s Lei Shoppe, 1034 Maunakea St. ( 808/536-6538), with terrific sources for unusual leis such as feather dendrobiums and firecracker combinations, as well as everyday favorites like ginger, tuberose, orchid, and pikake.
Plumeria leis
Hawaiiana & Gift Items
Visit the Museum Shop at the Honolulu Museum of Art, 900 S. Beretania St. ( 808/532-8703), for crafts, jewelry, and prints, including Georgia O’Keefe’s illustrations from her time in Hawaii. You’ll find gifts to bring home, such as lauhala clutches, macadamia nut oil soaps, and color-saturated screenprints. I’m a fan of the local artists’ limited-edition T-shirts and collection of beautiful ceramics.
In the 1840s, Honolulu’s Chinatown began to take shape as many Chinese brought in to work on the sugar plantations opted not to renew their contracts and instead moved to Chinatown to open businesses. Fronting Honolulu harbor, Chinatown catered to whalers and sailors. It reached its zenith in the 1920s, with restaurants and markets flourishing by day, and prostitutes and opium dens doing brisk business at night. As its reputation as a red-light district began to eclipse everything else the neighborhood slowly declined. That is, until recent decades. Fresh boutiques and restaurants are filling in previously abandoned storefronts—which retain much of their original architectural details from the 1900s—as Chinatown once again attracts the entrepreneurial.
At the original location of Fighting Eel, 1133 Bethel St. (www.fightingeel.com; 808/738-9300, multiple locations on Oahu), you’ll find bright, easy-to-wear dresses and shirts with island prints that are in every local fashionista’s closet—perfect for Honolulu weather, but chic enough to wear back home. Owens and Co., 1152 Nuuanu Ave. (www.owensandcompany.com; 808/531-4300), offers a colorful selection of housewares and accessories, including candles, stationery, jewelry, and totes, many of which are locally made or island inspired. Go treasure-hunting at Tin Can Mailman (p. 167) and the funky Hound & Quail, 1156 Nuuanu Ave. (www.houndandquail.com; 808/779-8436), where a collection of antiques and curiosities, from a taxidermied ostrich to old medical texts, make for a fascinating perusal. Find nostalgia in a 1950s tiki print dress or red silk kimono at Barrio Vintage, 1161 Nuuanu Ave. (www.barriovintage.com; 808/674-7156), one of the island’s best shops for vintage clothing. At Ginger13, 22 S. Pauahi St. (www.ginger13.com; 808/531-5311), local jewelry designer Cindy Yokoyama offers a refreshing change from the delicate jewelry found all over Hawaii by creating asymmetrical styles with chunky stones such as agate and opal.
Na Mea Hawaii A one-stop shop and resource for all things local and Hawaiian, you’ll find hula stones and ipu (gourds); Niihau shell lei; prints, crafts, and jewelry from local artists; local jams and coffee; and shelves of Hawaiian history and culture books. Regular classes in lauhala weaving, Hawaiian featherwork, ukulele, the Hawaiian language, and more are also held here. Call for the schedule. At the Ward Village Shops, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd. 808/596-8885.
Nohea Gallery Since its inception in 1990 Nohea Gallery has carried the work of more than 2,100 artists, almost all local. Here you’ll find original gyotaku, or prints using real fish such as ono and opelu by Naoki Hayashi, and woodwork, including beautiful bowls made of mango wood and koa. I love that you can buy everything from trinkets such as koa wood magnets to ki*ele’s beachy, delicate jewelry using sea glass and shells to a Russell Lowrey original (painting) of Pounder’s Beach for $7,500. At the Hyatt Waikiki, 2424 Kalakaua Ave. #128. www.noheagallery.com. 808/596-0074.
Tin Can Mailman What, not looking for a 1950s oil hula lamp? Check out this shop anyway. It’s packed with vintage Hawaiiana to emulate old-school general stores. The emphasis is on ephemera, such as pinups, postcards, old sheet music and advertisements, and the elusive Betty Boop hula girl bobblehead. 1026 Nuunau Ave. www.tincanmailman.net. 808/524-3009.
Shopping Centers
Ala Moana Center Hawaii’s largest mall includes luxury brands and mainstream chains. But it also offers a selection of local stores. Make sure to browse Manaola and stop by Tori Richard and Reyn Spooner (see “Clothing,” above, for all three); for surf-and-skate wear, check out Hawaiian Island Creations or T&C Surf Designs. Local boutique Cinnamon Girl is a perennial favorite for ultra-feminine dresses and mother-and-daughter matching outfits. For presents to bring home, stop in Blue Hawaii Lifestyle, which offers locally made food gifts such as chocolate and honey, as well as Hawaii-made soaps and beauty products. Pick up beautifully packaged, chocolate-dipped mac nut shortbread at Big Island Candies and only-in-Hawaii treats such as manju (resembling a filled cookie) and ume-shiso chocolates. Hungry? There are plenty of options: The Lanai is a new food court with all-natural shave ice at Uncle Clay’s House of Pure Aloha, fresh poke bowls at Ahi and Vegetable, and soft rolls and mochi bread at the Japanese Brug Bakery. Get lost browsing all the ramen and bento stalls at the Shirokiya Japan Village Walk, and then head to Takoyaki Yama Chan for hot, doughy balls studded with octopus. Treat yourself to a slice of cake and a plantation iced-tea jelly at the Japanese/French patisserie Palme D’Or. The center is open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 9pm, and Sunday 10am to 7pm. 1450 Ala Moana Blvd. www.alamoanacenter.com. 808/955-9517. Bus: 8, 19, or 20. Various shuttle services also stop here. For Waikiki Trolley information, see “Getting Around” (p. 70).
Salt at Kakaako There are grand plans for Kakaako, the neighborhood between Waikiki and downtown. Mostly, it’s a lot of new, hi-rise luxury condos, but developers are also trying to create an interesting mix of restaurants and retailers. Here, you’ll find Milo, a hip surf shop that also carries accessories for the home; Paiko, an adorable tropical botanical boutique, and Treehouse, a must for any photography lover, especially those with a penchant for vintage and film. Sample local chocolate at Lonohana Estate Chocolate, a company that grows its own cacao and turns it into smooth bars, from milk chocolate to extra dark. 660 Ala Moana Blvd. www.saltatkakaako.com.
Ward Village Shops Gems here include Na Mea Hawaii (see “Hawaiiana & Gift Items,” above). Find unique gifts at Red Pineapple, such as Sumadra clutches printed with silhouettes of the Mokulua Islands off Kailua, and Saffron James’ scents, which capture the exoticism of Hawaii’s flowers. Don’t miss the Everything Is Jake! retro-styled travel posters of Oahu’s Haleiwa town and other iconic Hawaii landscapes. You’ll find a lot of young Hawaii fashion designers at the South Shore Market, the building that houses the breezy designs of Kealopiko and Salvage Public’s menswear for surfers in and out of the water. Ward Village Shops is open Monday through Saturday 10am to 9pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm. Note: This area is currently being redeveloped, and the intent is to find new spaces for many of the current tenants while bringing in new stores for the mixed-use condo and retail development, dubbed Ward Village. To find the most up-to-date store directory, visit the Ward Village website. 1200 Ala Moana Blvd. www.wardvillageshops.com. 808/591-8411.
Shopping in Kailua
Befitting Oahu’s favorite beach town, many of the boutiques in Kailua offer plenty of swimsuits, breezy styles for men and women, and T-shirts from homegrown brands. In addition to the shops below, also make sure to stop by Manoa Chocolate (see “Specialty Tours,” p. 125).
Aloha Beach Club One of Kailua’s newer boutiques, Aloha Beach Club also designs and makes its own aloha shirts and board shorts in Hawaii. The style is updated retro. You’ll also find tasteful Aloha Beach Club logo wear. Make sure to grab a shave ice in the shop-within-a-shop, The Local Hawaii, made with locally grown fruit (a rarity in the artificially flavored shave ice world). 131 Hekili St., Suite 108, Kailua. www.alohabeachclub.com.
Island Bungalow Come here to furnish the beachy bohemian house of your dreams. Don’t have one? Pretend you do while browsing indigo dipped pillowcases, gauzy cotton canopies, tea glasses from Morocco, and intricately patterned textiles and caftans from India . . . because if you don’t have that beach house, at least you can dress like you’re going to one. 131 Hekili St., Kailua. www.islandbungalowhawaii.com. 808/536-4543.
Madre Chocolate Honolulu’s first bean-to-bar maker pays homage to chocolate’s origins—no surprise, considering owner Nat Bletter’s career as an ethnobotanist. The Triple Cacao bar blends cacao in all its forms: cacao pulp from Brazil, and nibs and chocolate from Mexico, reflecting the origin of the cacao trees in South America and chocolate’s invention in Central America. Other chocolate-bar flavors include lilikoi (passion fruit) and coconut milk with candied ginger. 20A Kainehe St., Kailua. www.madrechocolate.com. 808/262-6789.
Oliver This tiny, quirky shop for stylish men sells aloha shirts from local brand Salvage Public, pocket knives for the urban explorer, and soaps to clean up with when you’re done exploring. Browse the shop’s collection of vinyl records for some great vintage surf-band finds. Next door, Olive is for women, offering beach blankets, über-stylish swimsuits (to match Oliver’s über-stylish man), and beachy, well-made dresses. 49 Kihapai St., Kailua. www.oliverhawaii.com. 808/261-6587.
Farmer’s markets have proliferated on Oahu—there’s now one for every neighborhood for every day of the week. Unfortunately, the number of farmers has not kept up. In fact, some of the markets have vendors that sell repackaged Mainland produce. The best farmer’s markets are those run by the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation (HFBF; www.hfbf.org/markets) and FarmLovers (www.farmloversmarkets.com), which mandate locally grown meats, fruits, and veggies. Check their websites for detailed information. Here are my favorites:
Kapiolani Community College: The original and still the biggest and best. Unfortunately, you’ll have to deal with crowds—busloads of tourists get dropped off here. But you’ll find items unavailable at any other market—endless varieties of bananas and mangoes, tropical fruit you’ve never seen before, persimmons, and local duck eggs. Pick up cut, chilled pineapple or jackfruit to snack on, yogurt from Oahu’s one remaining dairy, perhaps some grilled abalone from Kona, and corn from Kahuku. And with a healthy dose of prepared-food vendors serving everything from fresh tomato pizzas to raw and vegan snacks, you won’t go hungry (4355 Diamond Head Rd.; 808/848-2074; Sat 7:30–11am; TheBus: 23 or 24).
Honolulu Farmer’s Market: This HFBF market is less crowded and has more locals stopping by to pick up groceries after work, plus some of the same vendors as the Kapiolani Community College market (777 Ward Ave.; 808/848-2074; Wed 4–7pm; TheBus: 13).
Shopping on the North Shore
The newly developed Haleiwa Store Lots, 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy. (www.haleiwastorelots.com), replaces some of the old, dusty buildings (some would say charming) in Haleiwa with an open-air, plantation-style shopping center. You’ll also find the Clark Little Gallery, showcasing the photographer’s shorebreak photos, which capture the fluidity, beauty, and power of a wave just as it’s about to hit the shoreline. Don’t miss Polu Gallery featuring local artists’ work, including Heather Brown’s bold and bright surf art and Kris Goto’s quirky drawings combining manga sensibilities with Hawaii surf culture. Guava Shop is Haleiwa’s quintessential clothing boutique. Its beachy, bohemian styles capture the aesthetic of a North Shore surfer girl.
Farther south into Haleiwa is Coffee Gallery, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Suite C106 (www.roastmaster.com; 808/637-5571), the best cafe in town, with a great selection of locally grown coffee beans to take home. Tini Manini, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy., Suite C101 (www.tinimanini.com; 808/637-8464), is an adorable children’s shop with everything from bathing suits to baby blankets for your little one. North Shore residents are relentlessly active, keeping in shape through running, surfing, stand-up paddling, and yoga. Mahiku, 66-165 Kamehameha Hwy. (www.mahiku.com; 808/888-6857), keeps them stylish, with fun and bright activewear that can go straight from the yoga mat into the ocean.
Over in Waialua, a collection of surfboard shapers and small businesses have turned the Waialua Sugar Mill, which stopped producing sugar in 1996, into a low-key retail and industrial space. Stop at North Shore Soap Factory, 67-106 Kealohanui St. (www.northshoresoapfactory.com; 808/637-8400), to watch all-natural and fragrant soaps being made. You can even stamp your bar of soap with a shaka or the silhouette of the sugar mill. It also has a line of bath and body care, with scrubs, lotions, and moisturizing kukui-nut oil.
Nightlife in Hawaii begins at sunset, when all eyes turn westward to see how the day will end. Sunset viewers always seem to bond in the mutual enjoyment of a natural spectacle.
Enjoy hula dancing and a torch-lighting ceremony on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday from 6:30 to 7:30pm (6–7pm Nov–Jan), as the sun casts its golden glow on the beach at the Kuhio Beach Hula Mound, close to Duke Kahanamoku’s statue (Ulunui and Kalakaua sts.). This is a thoroughly delightful free offering of hula and music by some of the Hawaii’s finest performers. Start off early with a picnic basket and walk along the ocean-side path fronting Queen’s Beach near the Waikiki Aquarium. (You can park along Kapiolani Park or near the zoo.) There are few more pleasing spots in Waikiki than the benches at water’s edge at this Diamond Head end of Kalakaua Avenue. It’s a short walk to where the seawall and daring boogie boarders attract hordes of spectators. To check the schedule, go to www.waikikiimprovement.com/waikiki-calendar-of-events/kuhio-beach-hula-show.
Performers at House Without a Key
On the last Friday of every month (except Nov–Dec), the place to be after the sun goes down is ARTafterDARK, a pau hana (after-work) mixer in the Honolulu Academy of Arts, 900 S. Beretania St. (www.artafterdark.org; 808/532-8700), that brings residents and visitors together around a theme combining art with food, music, and dancing. In addition to the exhibits in the gallery, ARTafterDARK features visual and live performances. Previous themes have ranged from “Plant Rice”—with rice and sake tastings, rice dishes, Asian beers, live Asian fusion music, and a tour of the “Art of Rice” exhibit—to “‘80s Night,” “Turkish Delights,” “Cool Nights, Hot Jazz and Blues,” and “Havana Heat.” The entrance fee is $10. The party gets going around 6 and lasts till 9pm. The crowd ranges from 20s to 50s, and the dress is everything from jeans and T-shirts to cocktail-party attire.
The Bar Scene
On the Beach Waikiki’s beachfront bars offer many possibilities, from the Mai Tai Bar ( 808/923-7311) at the Royal Hawaiian (p. 133) a few feet from the sand, to the Beach Bar ( 808/921-4600) under the banyan tree at the Moana Surfrider (p. 131), to the unfailingly enchanting House Without a Key ( 808/923-2311) at the Halekulani (p. 130) where a lovely hula dancer sways to the riffs of Hawaiian steel-pedal guitar with the sunset and ocean glowing behind her—a romantic, evocative, nostalgic scene. (It doesn’t hurt, either, that the Halekulani happens to make the best mai tais in the world.) The Halekulani has the after-dinner hours covered, too, with light jazz by local artists in the Lewers Lounge from 9pm to 2am nightly (see “Live Blues, R&B, Jazz & Pop,” below).
Another great bar for watching the sun sink into the Pacific is Duke’s Waikiki (www.dukeswaikiki.com; 808/922-2268) in the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort. The outside Barefoot Bar is perfect for sipping a tropical drink, watching the waves and sunset, and listening to music. It can get crowded, so get here early. Hawaii sunset music is usually from 4 to 6pm daily, with live entertainment nightly from 9:30pm to midnight.
Downtown/Chinatown First Fridays, which originally started as an art gallery walk on the first Friday of the month, has now evolved into a club and bar crawl that can sometimes turn Chinatown into a frat party on the streets. Go on a non–First Friday weekend for a mellower scene. The activity is concentrated on Hotel Street, on the block between Smith and Nuunau. That’s where you’ll find Tchin Tchin! (p. 152) and Manifest, 32 N. Hotel St., with a great selection of whiskey and gin. The bartenders here are happy to whip up complex whiskey drinks or simple, classic cocktails. After 10pm, DJs and live music make the laidback bar more clubby. Across the street is Bar 35, 35 N. Hotel St. ( 808/537-3535), whose claim to fame is its 110 beers available, plus wine, cocktails, and even pizza. You must be 21 to enter (strictly enforced).
Hanks Cafe, around the corner on Nu'unau Avenue between Hotel and King streets (http://hankscafehawaii.com; 808/526-1410), is a tiny, kitschy, friendly pub with live music nightly, open-mic nights, and special events that attract great talent and a supportive crowd. On some nights, the music spills out into the streets and it’s so packed you have to press your nose against the window to see what you’re missing. Upstairs at the Dragon Upstairs, there’s more live music Tuesday through Sunday nights (http://thedragonupstairs.com; 808/526-1411). At the makai end of Nuunau, toward the pier, Murphy’s Bar and Grill (p. 152) is a popular downtown alehouse and media haunt.
Hawaiian Music
Oahu has several key spots for Hawaiian music. House Without a Key (see “The Bar Scene,” above) is one of my favorite places to listen to Hawaiian music, both for the quality and the ambience.
Kana ka pila means to make music, so it makes sense then that the Kana Ka Pila Grille ( 808/924-4994) at the Outrigger Reef on the Beach has one of the city’s best Hawaiian-music lineups, including slack key guitarists Cyril Pahinui (son of famed guitarist Gabby Pahinui).
The Willows, 901 Hausten St. (www.willowshawaii.com; 808/952-9200) was once the garden home of Emma McGuire Hausten and her family in the 1920s. Its tropical setting, full of lush greenery, waterfalls and ponds, and restaurant is now where generations gather for graduation parties, birthdays, and weddings. Every Thursday, it hosts Pakele Live, a 2-hour concert featuring island entertainers.
Every year, halau (hula schools) and Hawaiian musicians from around the state gather for Ola Ka Ha, to honor Iolani Palace through song and dance. It’s a free event; find this year’s date at www.olakaha.com.
Blue Note Hawaii, inside the Outrigger Waikiki, 2335 Kalakaua Ave. (www.bluenotehawaii.com; 808/777-4890), from the owner of the Blue Note jazz club in New York City, is the state’s newest venue for jazz, blues, and favorite local entertainers. It has a great, old-school jazzy vibe, and the restaurant offers hearty plates like a hamburger and braised short ribs. Past performers have included Dee Dee Bridgewater and ukulele virtuoso Jake Shimabukuro.
Tops in taste and ambience is the perennially alluring Lewers Lounge in the Halekulani, 2199 Kalia Rd. (www.halekulani.com; 808/923-2311). Comfy intimate seating around the pillars makes this a great spot for contemporary jazz nightly from 8:30pm to midnight.
Outside Waikiki, the Veranda, at the Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave. (www.kahalaresort.com; 808/739-8888), is a popular spot for the over-40 crowd, with nightly jazz music and a dance floor.
Off the beaten path (yes, that’s a strip club in the neighborhood), you’ll find the intimate bar and club Jazz Minds (www.honolulujazzclub.com; 808/945-0800) dedicated to jazz and jazz-fusion.
Check www.honolulujazzscene.com for daily listings.
Showroom Acts & Revues
Te Moana Nui, at the Sheraton Princess Kaiulani, is a theatrical journey of fire dancing, special effects, illusions, hula, and dances from Hawaii and the South Pacific. Shows are Sunday, Wednesday, and Friday (dinner show starts at $105 adults, $79 children 5–12; cocktail show $60 adults).
Also worth experiencing, even if you don’t spend the day at the Polynesian Cultural Center, is Ha: Breath of Life (p. 100).
The Performing Arts
“Aloha shirt to Armani” is how I describe the night scene in Honolulu—mostly casual, but with ample opportunity to part with your flip-flops and dress up.
Audiences have grooved to the beat of the Hawaii International Jazz Festival, the American Repertory Dance Company, barbershop quartets, and John Kaimikaua’s halau—all at the Hawaii Theatre, 1130 Bethel St., Downtown (www.hawaiitheatre.com; 808/528-0506). The theater is basking in its renaissance as a leading multipurpose center for the performing arts. The neoclassical Beaux-Arts landmark features a dome from 1922, 1,400 plush seats, a hydraulically elevated organ, breathtaking murals, and gilt galore.
In 2011, a new symphony orchestra was reborn from the disbanded century-old Honolulu Symphony Orchestra: Hawaii Symphony (http://hawaiisymphonyorchestra.org; 808/593-2468). Meanwhile, the Hawaii Opera Theatre (www.hawaiiopera.org; 808/596-7372 or 800/836-7372), celebrating more than 50 seasons, still draws fans to the Neal S. Blaisdell Center (www.blaisdellcenter.com; 808/591-2211), as does Ballet Hawaii (www.ballethawaii.org). Contemporary performances by Iona (www.iona360.com), a strikingly creative group whose dance evolved out of Butoh (a contemporary dance form that originated in Japan), are worth tracking down if you love the avant-garde.
