Kii in Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park
Larger than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, the Big Island truly deserves its nickname. Its 4,028 square miles—a figure that’s growing, thanks to an active volcano—contain 10 of the world’s 13 climate zones. In less than a day, a visitor can easily traverse tropical rainforest, lava desert, verdant pastures, misty uplands, and chilly tundra, the last near the summit of Mauna Kea, almost 14,000 feet above sea level. The shoreline also boasts diversity, from golden beaches to enchanting coves with black, salt-and-pepper, even olivine sand. Above all, the island home of Kamehameha the Great and Pele, the volcano goddess, is big in mana: power and spirituality.
Arriving
The Big Island has two major airports for interisland and trans-Pacific jet traffic: Kona and Hilo.
Most people arrive at Kona International Airport (KOA; http://hawaii.gov/koa) in Keahole, the island’s westernmost point, and can be forgiven for wondering if there’s really a runway among all the crinkly black lava and golden fountain grass. Leaving the airport, the ritzy Kohala Coast is to the left (north) and the town of Kailua-Kona—often just called “Kona,” as is the airport—is to the right (south).
U.S. carriers offering nonstop service to Kona, in alphabetical order, are Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com; 
800/252-7522), with flights from the Pacific Northwest hubs of Seattle, Portland, and Anchorage (plus Nov–Apr from Bellingham, Washington) and from San Diego, San Jose, and Oakland, California; American Airlines (www.aa.com; 800/433-7300), departing from Los Angeles and Phoenix (also June—late Aug from Dallas); Delta Air Lines (www.delta.com; 800/221-1212), flying from Los Angeles and Seattle; Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 800/367-5320), offering summer service from Oakland and Los Angeles; United Airlines (www.united.com; 800/241-6522), with year-round flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Denver.
Air Canada (www.aircanada.com; 888/247-2267) and WestJet (www.westjet.com; 888/937-8358) also offer nonstop service to Kona, with frequency changing seasonally, from Vancouver.
United offers weekly nonstop service from the mainland to Hilo International Airport (ITO; http://hawaii.gov/ito), via Los Angeles.
For connecting flights or island-hopping, Hawaiian (see above) is the only carrier offering interisland jet service, available from Honolulu and Kahului, Maui, to both Kona and Hilo airports; it also flies daily nonstop between Kauai and Kona. Hawaiian’s Ohana by Hawaiian subsidiary also flies from Kona and Hilo to Kahului on 48-passenger, twin-engine turboprops. Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-4040) flies nine-passenger, single-engine turboprops to Kona from Molokai (Hoolehua) and Maui’s Kahului and Kapalua airports, and to Waimea from Kahului. Note: Mokulele weighs passengers and their carry-ons to determine seats; those totaling 350 lbs. or more are not allowed to board.
Visitor Information
The Big Island Visitors Bureau (www.gohawaii.com/big-island; 800/648-2441) has two offices: one in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Suite 109B, in the Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-1655); the other at 101 Aupuni St., Suite 238, Hilo ( 808/961-5797).
This Week (www.thisweekhawaii.com/big-island) and 101 Things to Do: Big Island (www.101thingstodo.com/big-island) are free publications that offer good, useful information amid the advertisements, as well as discount coupons for a variety of island adventures. Copies are easy to find all around the island.
Konaweb.com has an extensive event calendar and handy links to sites and services around the island, not just the Kona side. Those fascinated by the island’s active volcanoes—including Kilauea, which saw dramatic eruptions at its summit and in lower Puna beginning in May 2018—should check out the detailed daily lava reports, maps, photos, videos, and webcams on the U.S. Geological Survey’s Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website (http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov), which also tracks the island’s frequent but usually minor earthquake activity.
The Island in Brief
The Kona Coast
Kona means “leeward side” in Hawaiian—and that means hot, dry weather virtually every day of the year on the 70-mile stretch of black lava shoreline encompassing the North and South Kona districts.
North Kona With the exception of the sumptuous but serenely low-key Four Seasons Resort Hualalai 
north of the airport, most of what everyone just calls “Kona” is an affordable vacation spot. An ample selection of midpriced condo units, timeshares, and several recently upgraded hotels lies between the bustling commercial district of Kailua-Kona , a one-time fishing village and royal compound now renowned as the start and finish of the Ironman World Championship, and Keauhou, an equally historic area about 6 miles south that boasts upscale condominiums, a shopping center, and golf-course homes.
The rightly named Alii (“Royalty”) Drive begins in Kailua-Kona near King Kamehameha’s royal compound at Kamakahonu Bay, which includes the off-limits temple complex of Ahuena Heiau, and continues past Hulihee Palace , an elegant retreat for later royals that sits across from the oldest church in the islands. Heading south, the road passes by the snorkelers’ haven of Kahaluu Beach 
, as well as sacred and royal sites on the former Keauhou Beach Resort, before the intersection with King Kamehameha III Road, which leads to that monarch’s birthplace by Keauhou Bay. Several kayak excursions and snorkel boats leave from Keauhou, but Kailua Pier sees the most traffic—from cruise-ship tenders to fishing and dive boats, dinner cruises, and other sightseeing excursions.
Beaches between Kailua-Kona and Keauhou tend to be pocket coves, but heading north toward South Kohala (which begins near the entrance to the Waikoloa Beach Resort), beautiful, uncrowded sands lie out of sight from the highway, often reached by unpaved roads across vast lava fields. Among the steep coffee fields in North Kona’s cooler upcountry, you’ll find the rustic, artsy village of Holualoa.
South Kona The rural, serrated coastline here is indented with numerous bays, from Kealakekua, a marine life and cultural preserve that’s the island’s best diving spot, down to Honaunau, where a national historical park recalls the days of old Hawaii. This is a great place to stay, in modest plantation-era inns or bed-and-breakfasts, if you want to get away from crowds but still be within driving distance of beaches and Kailua-Kona—you may hear the all-night cheeping of coqui frogs, though. The higher, cooler elevation of the main road means you’ll pass many coffee, macadamia nut, and tropical fruit farms, some with tours or roadside stands.
The Kohala Coast
Also on the island’s “Kona side,” sunny and dry Kohala is divided into two distinctively different districts, although the resorts are more glamorous and the rural area that much less developed.
South Kohala Pleasure domes rise like palaces no Hawaiian king ever imagined along the sandy beaches carved into the craggy shores here, from the more moderately priced Waikoloa Beach Resort at Anaehoomalu Bay to the posher Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resorts to the north. Mauna Kea is where Laurance Rockefeller opened the area’s first resort in 1965, a virtual mirage of opulence and tropical greenery rising from bleak, black lava fields, framed by the white sands of Kaunaoa Beach and views of the eponymous mountain. But you don’t have to be a billionaire to enjoy South Kohala’s fabulous beaches and historic sites (such as petroglyph fields); all are open to the public, with parking and other facilities (including restaurants and shopping) provided by the resorts.
Several of the region’s attractions are also located off the resorts, including the white sands of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park ; the massive Puukohola Heiau , a lava rock temple commissioned by King Kamehameha the Great; and the excellent restaurants and handful of stores in Kawaihae, the commercial harbor just after the turnoff for upcountry Waimea. Note: The golf course community of Waikoloa Village is not in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, but instead lies 5½ miles uphill from the coastal highway.
Waimea (Kamuela) & Mauna Kea Officially part of South Kohala, the old upcountry cow town of Waimea on the northern road between the coasts is a world unto itself, with rolling green pastures, wide-open spaces dotted by puu (cindercone hills, pronounced “pooh-ooh”) and real cowpokes who work mammoth Parker Ranch, the state’s largest working ranch. The postal service gave it the name Kamuela, after ranch founder Samuel (Kamuela) Parker, to distinguish it from another cowboy town, Waimea, Kauai. It’s split between a “dry side” (closer to the Kohala Coast) and a “wet side” (closer to the Hamakua Coast), but both sides can be cooler than sea level. It’s also headquarters for the Keck Observatory, whose twin telescopes atop the nearly 14,000-foot Mauna Kea , some 35 miles away, are the largest and most powerful in the world. Waimea is home to shopping centers and affordable B&Bs, while the expanded Merriman’s remains a popular foodie outpost at Opelo Plaza.
North Kohala Locals may remember when sugar was king here, but for visitors, little-developed North Kohala is most famous for another king, Kamehameha the Great. His birthplace is a short walk from one of the Hawaiian Islands’ largest and most important temples, Mookini Heiau 
, which dates to a.d. 480; you’ll want a four-wheel-drive (4WD) for the rugged road there. Much easier to find: the yellow-cloaked bronze statue of the warrior-king in front of the community center in Kapaau, a small plantation-era town. The road ends at the breathtaking Pololu Valley Overlook .
Once the center of the Big Island’s sugarcane industry, Hawi remains a regional hub, with a 3-block-long strip of sun-faded, false-fronted buildings holding a few shops and restaurants of interest to visitors. Eight miles south, Lapakahi State Historical Park merits a stop to explore how less-exalted Hawaiians than Kamehameha lived in a simple village by the sea. Beaches are less appealing here, with the northernmost coves subject to strong winds blowing across the Alenuihaha Channel from Maui, 26 miles away and visible on clear days.
Keck Observatory
The Hamakua Coast
This emerald coast, a 52-mile stretch from Honokaa to Hilo on the island’s windward northeast side, was once planted with sugarcane; it now blooms with macadamia nuts, papayas, vanilla orchids, and mushrooms. Resort-free and virtually without beaches, the Hamakua Coast includes the districts of Hamakua and North Hilo, with two unmissable destinations. Picture-perfect Waipio Valley has impossibly steep sides, taro patches, a green riot of wild plants, and a winding stream leading to a broad, black-sand beach, while Akaka Falls State Park offers views of two lovely waterfalls amid lush foliage. Also worth checking out: Laupahoehoe Point , with its mournful memorial to young victims of a 1946 tsunami; and the quirky assortment of shops in the plantation town of Honokaa.
Hilo
The largest metropolis in Hawaii after Honolulu is a quaint, misty, flower-filled city of Victorian houses overlooking a half-moon bay, with a restored historic downtown and a clear view of Mauna Kea, often snowcapped in winter. However, it rains a lot in Hilo—about 128 inches a year—which tends to dampen visitors’ enthusiasm for longer stays. It’s ideal for growing ferns, orchids, and anthuriums, but not for catching constant rays.
Yet there’s a lot to see and do in Hilo and the surrounding South Hilo district, both indoors and out—including visiting the bayfront Japanese-style Liliuokalani Gardens , the Pacific Tsunami Museum , the Mokupapapa Discovery Center , and Rainbow Falls (Waianueanue) —so grab your umbrella. The rain is warm (the temperature seldom dips below 70°F/21°C), and there’s usually a rainbow afterward.
The town also holds the island’s best bargains for budget travelers, with plenty of hotel rooms—most of the year, that is. Hilo’s magic moment comes in spring, the week after Easter, when hula hālau (schools) arrive for the annual Merrie Monarch Hula Festival hula competition (www.merriemonarch.com). Plan ahead if you want to go: Tickets are sold out by the first week in January, and hotels within 30 miles are usually booked solid. Hilo is also the gateway to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park , where hula troupes have traditionally performed chants and dances before the Merrie Monarch festival; the park is 30 miles away, or about an hour’s drive up-slope.
Puna District
Pahoa, Kapoho & Kalapana Between Hilo and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park lies the “Wild Wild East,” which gained international and viral social media fame in May 2018 with the onset of devastating, dramatic lava flows that at press time were expected to continue for months. It was already home to geothermal wonders such as the ghostly hollowed trunks of Lava Tree State Monument , the volcanically heated waters of Ahalanui Park and the Kapoho warm ponds, and the acres of lava from a 1986 flow that rolled through the Hawaiian hamlet of Kalapana and covered a popular black-sand beach. Closed indefinitely at press time, the areas were expected to reopen if air conditions and road access allowed; vacation rentals were also closed indefinitely for safety reasons. The destroyed residential neighborhoods built atop Kilauea’s Lower East Rift Zone, however, are unlikely to be restored. In 2014, lava also threatened the part-Hawaiian, part-hippie plantation town of Pahoa, the region’s funky gateway, consuming miles of forest before stopping just short of Hwy. 130, the only road in and out of lower Puna; in 2018, it was unclear if Pele would be so obliging.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park This is America’s most exciting national park, where a live volcano called Kilauea has been continuously erupting since 1983—stunningly so in 2018. Massive, steam-driven eruptions of ash at the summit began in May after its lava lake drained, leading most of the park ito close indefinitely; it was expected to reopen later in 2018 once conditions permitted. While you may not be able to witness molten lava, there’s always something else impressive to see, whether it’s the vast Halemaumau Crater, Nahuku (Thurston) Lava Tube, or the steam vents that have been belching sulphurous odors since long before Mark Twain visited in 1866. Ideally, plan to spend 3 days at the park exploring its many trails, watching the volcano, visiting the rainforest, and just enjoying this spectacular place. But even if you have only a day, it’s worth the trip. Bring your sweats or jacket (honest!); it’s cool up there.
Volcano Village If you’re not camping or staying at the historic, 33-room Volcano House inside the park (temporarily closed in 2018 during the eruption), you’ll want to overnight in this quiet hamlet, just outside the national park entrance. Several cozy inns and B&Bs, some with fireplaces, reside under tree ferns in this cool mountain hideaway. The tiny highland community (elevation 4,000 ft.), first settled by Japanese immigrants, is now inhabited by artists, soul-searchers, and others who like the crisp high-country air, although in 2018 many faced hard times caused by the park’s extended closure and ash fall.
Kau District
Pronounced “kah-oo,” this windswept, often barren district between Puna and South Kona is one visitors are most likely to just drive through on their way to and from the national park. Nevertheless, it contains several noteworthy sites.
Ka Lae (South Point) This is the Plymouth Rock of Hawaii. The first Polynesians are thought to have arrived in seagoing canoes, probably from the Marquesas Islands, around a.d. 500 at this rocky promontory 500 feet above the sea. To the west is the old fishing village of Waiahukini, populated from a.d. 750 until the 1860s; ancient canoe moorings, shelter caves, and heiau (temples) poke through windblown pili grass today. The east coast curves inland to reveal Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach , a world-famous anomaly that’s best accessed on foot. Along the point, the southernmost spot in the 50 states, trees grow sideways due to the relentless gusts that also power wind turbines. It’s a slow, nearly 12-mile drive from the highway to the tip of Ka Lae, so many visitors simply stop at the marked overlook on Highway 11, west of South Point Road.
Naalehu, Waiohinu & Pahala Nearly every business in Naalehu and Waiohinu, the two wide spots on the main road near South Point, claims to be the southernmost this or that. But except for delicious malasadas (doughnut holes) or another pick-me-up from the Punaluu Bake Shop or Hana Hou Restaurant , there’s no reason to linger before heading to Punaluu Beach , between Naalehu and Pahala. Protected green sea turtles bask on the fine black-sand beach when they’re not bobbing in the clear waters, chilly from fresh springs bubbling from the ocean floor. Pahala is the center of the burgeoning Kau coffee-growing scene (“industry” might be overstated), so caffeine fans should also allot at least 45 minutes for a visit to the Kau Coffee Mill .
The Hawaiian directions of makai (toward the ocean) and mauka (toward the mountains) come in handy when looking for unfamiliar sites, especially since numbered address signs may be invisible or nonexistent. They’re used with addresses below as needed.
By Taxi and Rideshare Ride-sharing Uber and Lyft came to the island in 2017, although at press time coverage was sparse outside of Kailua-Kona and Hilo, and drivers were not allowed to make airport pickups yet. Taxis are readily available at both Kona and Hilo airports, although renting a car (see below) is a more likely option. Rates set by the county start at $3, plus $3.20 each additional mile—about $25 to $30 from the Kona airport to Kailua-Kona and $50 to $60 to the Waikoloa Beach Resort. On the Kona side, call Kona Taxicab (www.konataxicab.com; 808/324-4444), which can also be booked in advance for airport pickups; drivers will check on your flight’s arrival. On the Hilo side, call Kwiki Taxi (www.kwikitaxi.wordpress.com; 808/498-0308).
By Car You’ll want a rental car on the Big Island; not having one will really limit you. All major car-rental agencies have airport pickups in Kona and Hilo; some even offer cars at Kohala and Kona resorts. For tips on insurance and driving rules, see “Getting Around Hawaii” (p. 601).
The Big Island has more than 480 miles of paved road. The highway that circles the island is called the Hawaii Belt Road. From North Kona to South Kohala and Waimea, you have two driving choices: the scenic “upper” road, Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190), or the speedier “lower” road, Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Hwy. 19). South of Kailua-Kona, the Hawaii Belt Road continues on Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) all the way to downtown Hilo, where it becomes Highway 19 again and follows the Hamakua Coast before heading up to Waimea.
North Kohala also has upper and lower highways. In Kawaihae, you can follow Kawaihae Road (Hwy. 19) uphill to the left turn onto the often-misty Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), which eventually drops down into Hawi. The Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270) hugs the coast from Kawaihae to pavement’s end at the Pololu Valley Lookout.
Note: Saddle Road (Hwy. 200) snakes between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa en route from Hilo to Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 190). Despite improvements to its once-rough pavement and narrow shoulders, it’s still frequented by large military vehicles and plagued by bad weather; as a result, most rental-car agencies forbid you from driving on it. I’ve found the 29 miles from Hilo to the Mauna Kea Access Road to be very easy to navigate in good conditions, but be careful not to speed, especially close to Hilo.
By Bus & Shuttle SpeediShuttle (www.speedishuttle.com; 808/329-5433) and Roberts Hawaii (www.robertshawaii.com; 866/570-2536 or 808/954-8640) offer door-to-door airport transfers to hotels and other lodgings. Sample round-trip, shared-ride rates from the Kona airport are $26 per person to Kailua-Kona, and $60 per person to the Mauna Lani Resort; Roberts agents meet you outside security and provide porter service in baggage claim, but be aware there may be up to five stops before your destination.
The islandwide bus system, the Hele-On Bus (www.heleonbus.org; 808/961-8744), offers a great flat rate for riders: $2 general; $1 for students, seniors, and people with disabilities; and free for children under 5. Yet most routes have limited value for visitors, other than the Intra-Kona line between Kailua-Kona’s big-box stores (Wal-Mart, Costco) and the Keauhou Shopping Center, which also stops at the Old Kona Airport Beach. Fares are cash only.
Travelers staying in Kailua-Kona and the Keauhou Resort can hop on the open-air, 44-seat Keauhou Resort Trolley operated by Roberts Hawaii ( 808/329-1688), running from 9am to 9:15pm daily along Alii Drive. It makes six stops a day at 29 locations from the Sheraton Kona Resort and Keauhou Shopping Center to Kahaluu Beach, Kailua Pier, and the shops of downtown Kailua-Kona. The fare is $2, free for those with vouchers from their hotel (such as the Sheraton) or stores in the Kona Commons Shopping Center, which give them to customers who spend $25 or more.
The Waikoloa Beach Resort shopping trolley runs from 10am to 10pm daily from Hilton Waikoloa Village and the Waikoloa Beach Marriott to the Kings’ Shops and Queens’ MarketPlace; it costs $2 adults, $1 ages 5 to 12 (younger free). Guests at Kings’ Land by Hilton Grand Vacations can catch a free van shuttle to Hilton Waikoloa Village and pick up the trolley from there. Hilton Waikoloa Village also runs beach and golf shuttles for guests.
By Bike Due to elevation changes, narrow shoulders (with the notable exception of the Queen Kaahumanu Highway between Kailua-Kona and Kawaihae), and high traffic speeds, point-to-point bike travel without a tour guide isn’t recommended. However, several areas are ideal for recreational cycling and sightseeing. See “Biking” under “Other Outdoor Activities” for rental shops and routes.
By Motorcycle & Scooter The sunny Kohala and Kona coasts are ideal for tooling around on a motorcycle, while those sticking to one resort or Kailua-Kona can easily get around by scooter. In Kailua-Kona, Hawaiian Adventure Rentals, 75-5669 Alii Dr. (www.hiadv.com; 808/445-6722), rents new and vintage Yamahas from $70 to $170 a day, including helmets and jackets, with discounts for longer bookings. Choose from a variety of heavier hogs at Big Island Harley-Davidson, 75-5633 Palani Rd. (www.bigislandharley.com; 888/904-3155 or 808/217-8560), with rates starting at $99 daily ($639 weekly), including gear and unlimited mileage, for qualified drivers. Big Island Mopeds (www.konamopedrentals.com; 808/443-6625) will deliver mopeds to your door for $40 day ($200 weekly; note prices rise to $100 daily/$500 weekly during Ironman week in mid-Oct).
ATMs/Banks ATMs are located everywhere on the Big Island, at banks, supermarkets, Long’s Drugs, and at some shopping malls. The major banks on the Big Island are First Hawaiian, Bank of Hawaii, American Savings, and Central Pacific, all with branches in both Kona and Hilo.
Business Hours Most businesses on the island are open from 8 or 9am to 5 or 6pm.
Dentists In Kohala, contact Dr. Craig C. Kimura at Kamuela Office Center, 65-1230 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea ( 808/885-5947). In Kailua-Kona, call Dr. Christopher Bays at Kona Coast Dental Care, 75-5591 Palani Rd., above the KBXtreme Bowling Center (www.konacoastdental.com; 808/329-8067). In Hilo, Island Ohana Dental, 519 E. Lanikaula St. (www.islandohanadental.com; 808/935-4800), is open Mon–Sat, with three siblings—Drs. Germaine, Garrett, and Jill Uehara—on staff.
Doctors For drop-in visits, head to Urgent Care of Kona, 77-311 Sunset Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.urgentcareofkona.com; 808/327-4357). It’s open 8am–5pm weekdays and 9am–5pm on Sat. Kaiser Permanente has an affiliated Urgent Care Center at 45 Mohouli St., Hilo ( 808/969-3051), open 8:30am–8:30pm weekdays and 8:30am–4:30pm weekends.
Emergencies For ambulance, fire, or rescue services, dial 911.
Hospitals Hospitals offering 24-hour, urgent-care facilities include the Kona Community Hospital, 79-1019 Haukapila St., off Highway 11, Kealakekua (www.kch.hhsc.org; 808/322-9311); Hilo Medical Center, 1190 Waianuenue Ave., Hilo (www.hilomedicalcenter.org; 808/932-3000); North Hawaii Community Hospital, 67-1125 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea (www.nhch.com; 808/885-4444); and the tiny Kau Hospital, 1 Kamani St., Pahala (www.kauhospital.org; 808/932-4200).
Internet Access Pretty much every lodging on the island has Wi-Fi; resorts typically include it in their exorbitant resort fees, but some hotels offer it for a daily charge. All Starbucks and McDonald’s locations, plus numerous local coffee shops also offer free Wi-Fi.
Pharmacies The only 24-hour pharmacy is in Hilo at Longs Drugs, 555 Kilauea Ave., one of 12 around the island (www.cvs.com; 808/935-9075). The rest open as early as 7am and close as late as 9pm Monday through Saturday; some are closed Sunday. Kona and Hilo’s national chain stores such as Kmart, Safeway, Target, Wal-Mart, and Costco (Kailua-Kona only) also have pharmacies with varying hours.
Police Dial 911 in case of emergency; otherwise, call the Hawaii Police Department at 808/935-3311 islandwide.
Post Office The U.S. Postal Service (www.usps.com; 800/275-8777) has 28 branches around the island, including in Kailua-Kona at 74-5577 Palani Rd., in Waimea (Kamuela) at 67-1197 Mamalahoa Hwy., and in Hilo at 1299 Kekuanaoa St. All are open weekdays; some are also open Saturday morning.
Volcanic Activity Before you visit Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, learn if lava is flowing and check for road closures and other conditions at www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/index.htm. For daily air-quality reports, based on sulfur dioxide and particulates measured at eight sites around the island, visit http://hiso2index.info.
Attractions & Points of Interest
Although parks are open year-round, some of the other attractions below may be closed on major holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, or Thanksgiving Day. Admission is often reduced for Hawaii residents (kamaaina) with state ID.
North Kona
Hulihee Palace 
HISTORIC SITE John Adams Kuakini, royal governor of the island, built this stately, two-story New England–style mansion overlooking Kailua Bay in 1838. It later became a summer home for King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani and, like Queen Emma’s Summer Palace and Iolani Palace on Oahu, is now lovingly maintained by the Daughters of Hawaii as a showcase for royal furnishings and Native Hawaiian artifacts, from hat boxes to koa furniture and a 22-foot spear. You can take a self-guided tour of its six spacious rooms, but it’s worth arriving in time for a guided tour, at 10am and 1pm daily, to learn more of the monarchs’ history and cultural context; guided tours are also the only ones permitted on the oceanfront lanai. A sign directs you to remove shoes before entering, with free booties provided upon request.
Hulihee Palace
The palace lawn hosts 12 free events a year honoring a different member of Hawaiian royalty, with performances by local hula schools and musicians. Called Afternoon at the Palace, they’re generally held at 4pm on the third Sunday of the month (except June and Dec, when the performances are held in conjunction with King Kamehameha Day and Christmas). Check the Daughters of Hawaii website for dates.
75-5718 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. http://daughtersofhawaii.org. 
808/329-1877. $10 adults, $8 seniors, $1 ages 5–17. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 10am–3pm.
Kaloko-Honokoha National Historical Park 
HISTORIC SITE/NATURAL ATTRACTION With no erupting volcano, impressive tikis, or massive temples, this 1,160-acre oceanfront site just north of Honokohau Harbor tends to get overlooked by visitors in favor of its showier siblings in the national park system. That’s a shame for several reasons, among them it’s a microcosm of ancient Hawaii, from fish ponds (one with an 800-ft.-long rock wall), house platforms, petroglyphs, and trails through barren lava to marshlands with native waterfowl, reefs teeming with fish, and a tranquil beach where green sea turtles bask in the shadow of Puuoina Heiau. Plus, it’s rarely crowded, and admission is free. Stop by the small visitor center to pick up a brochure and ask about ocean conditions (if you’re planning to snorkel), and then backtrack to Honokohau Harbor, a half-mile south, to park closer to the beach.
Ocean side of Hwy. 19, 3 miles south of Kona airport. www.nps.gov/kaho. 808/326-9057. Visitor center and parking lot ½-mile north of Honokohau Harbor daily 8:30am–4pm. Kaloko Rd. gate daily 8am–5pm. No time restrictions on parking at Honokohau Harbor; from Hwy.19, take Kealakehe Pkwy. west into harbor, then take 1st right, and follow to parking lot near Kona Sailing Club, a short walk to beach.
Mokuaikaua Church 
RELIGIOUS/HISTORIC SITE In 1820, just a few months after King Kamehameha II and Queen Regent Kaahumanu had broken the kapu system (taboos) at Ahuena Heiau, the first missionaries to land in Hawaii arrived on the brig Thaddeus and received the royals’ permission to preach. Within a few years a thatched-roof structure had risen on this site, on land donated by Gov. Kuakini, owner of Hulihee Palace across the road. But after several fires, Rev. Asa Thurston had this massive, New England–style structure erected, using lava rocks from a nearby heiau (temple) held together by coral mortar, with gleaming koa for the lofty interior; the 112-foot steeple is still the tallest structure in Kailua-Kona. Visitors are welcome to view the sanctuary, open daily, and a rear room with a small collection of artifacts, including a model of the Thaddeus, a rope star chart used by Pacific Islanders, and a poignant plaque commemorating Henry Opukahaia. As a teenager, the Big Island native (known then as “Obookiah”) boarded a ship to New England in 1807, converted to Christianity, and helped plan the first mission to the islands, but he died of a fever in 1818, the year before the Thaddeus sailed. (In 1993 his remains were reinterred at Kahikolu Congregational Church, 16 miles south of Mokuaikaua.) Mokuaikaua hosts a free history talk most Sundays at 12:15pm, following the 11am service.
75-5713 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona, across from Hulihee Palace. www.mokuaikaua.org. 808/329-0655. Daily 7:30am–5:30pm.
Mokuaikaua Church
Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm AQUACULTURE On the coastline just behind the Natural Energy Lab (NELHA) lies this 3-acre, conservation-oriented “aqua-farm,” which breeds and displays more than half of the world’s 36 species of seahorses. The farm began breeding seahorses in 1998 as a way of ending demand for wild-collected seahorses and, once successful, expanded its interests to include similarly threatened sea dragons and reef fish. Although the $41 online ticket cost of the biologist-led, 1-hour tour may seem excessive, proceeds benefit the farm’s research and conservation. In any case, people still find their way here in droves, excited to see pregnant male seahorses and their babies, and to have one of the delicate creatures wrap its tail around their fingers. Note: From 10am to 4pm weekdays, drop-in visitors are welcome at the nearby Ke Kai Ola Hawaiian monk seal hospital, 73-731 Makako Bay Dr. ( 808/326-7325, www.tmmc.org/monkseal), where it’s free to view any patients on a TV monitor and learn from interpretive signs about this highly endangered species.
73-4388 Ilikai Place (behind the Natural Energy Lab), Kailua-Kona. From Hwy. 19 (at mile marker 94), follow OTEC Rd. past Wawalaloli Beach Park to 1st left; farm is on the right. www.seahorse.com. 808/329-6840. Online tickets: $41 adults, $31 children 4–12, free ages 3 and under (toddlers do not hold seahorses). At the door: $43 adults, $33 ages 4–12. Tours Mon–Fri 10am, noon and 2pm; reservations recommended. Gift shop Mon–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm.
South Kona
Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park NATURAL ATTRACTION The island’s largest natural sheltered bay, a marine life conservation district, is not only one of the best places to snorkel on Hawaii Island, it’s also an area of deep cultural and historical significance. On the southern Napoopoo (“nah-poh-oh-poh-oh”) side stands the large stacked-rock platform of Hikiau Heiau, a temple once used for human sacrifice and still considered sacred. A rocky beach park here includes picnic tables, barbecues, and restrooms. On the north side, a steep but relatively broad 2-mile trail leads down to Kaawaloa, where Alii (royalty) once lived; when they died, their bodies were taken to Puhina O Lono Heiau on the slope above, prepared for burial, and hidden in caves on the 600-foot-cliff above the central bay. The Captain Cook Monument is an obelisk on Kaawaloa Flat, near where the British explorer was slain in 1779, after misunderstandings between Hawaiians and Cook’s crew led to armed conflict. The Hawaiians then showed respect by taking Cook’s body to Puhina O Lono before returning some of his remains to his crew. Please do not tread on the reef or cultural sites; to protect the area, only hikers and three guided kayak tour companies have access to Kaawaloa Flat (see “Kayaking” on p. 236).
From Hwy. 11 in Captain Cook heading south, take right fork onto Napoopoo Rd. (Hwy. 160). Kaawaloa trailhead is about 500 ft. on right. By car, continue on Napoopoo Rd. 4¼-mile to left on Puuhonua Rd.; go ⅕-mile to right on Manini Beach Rd. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. Free. Daily during daylight hours.
More than 600 farms grow coffee in the Kona Coffee Belt on the slopes of Hualalai, from Kailua-Kona and Holualoa in North Kona to Captain Cook and Honaunau in South Kona. The prettiest time to visit is between January and May, when the rainy season brings white blossoms known as “Kona snow.” Harvesting is by hand—one reason Kona coffee is so costly—from July through January. At least 40 farms offer regular tours with tastings, and many more provide samples. You can make impromptu stops along Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11 and Hwy. 180) or find more obscure farms and those requiring reservations via the Kona Coffee Farmers Association (www.konacoffeefarmers.org). Some highlights, heading north to south:
Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company, 76-973 Hualalai Rd., Holualoa (www.konablueskycoffee.com; 
877/322-1700 or 808/322-1700): The Christian Twigg-Smith family and staff grows and sells its coffee on a 400-acre estate, with free, 15-minute guided walking tours (about half of which is watching a video) and tastings Tuesday to Friday, on the hour from 9am to 4pm.
Holualoa Kona Coffee Company, 77-6261 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 180), Holulaloa (www.konalea.com; 800/334-0348 or 808/322-9937): Owned by Desmond and Lisen Twigg-Smith, this organic farm and mill sells its own and others’ premium Kona coffee. Tour the orchards (mowed and fertilized by a flock of about 50 geese) and witness all phases of processing, weekdays from 8am to 4pm.
Kona Joe Coffee, 79-7346 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11 between mile markers 113 and 114), Kainaliu; www.konajoe.com; 808/322-2100): The home of the world’s first trellised coffee farm offers a free, self-guided tour with 8-minute video, as well as guided tours by request ($15 adults, free for kids 12 and under), daily from 8am to 4pm. Guided tours of the 20-acre estate include a mug, coffee, and chocolate, with reservations recommended for groups of six or more; coffee-loving couples should book the 1-hr., in-depth VIP tour ($170 per two adults.)
Greenwell Farms, 81-6581 Mamalahoa Hwy. (makai side of Hwy. 11, south of mile marker 112), Kealakekua (www.greenwellfarms.com; 808/323-2295): If any farm can claim to be the granddaddy of Kona coffee, this would be it. Englishman Henry Nicholas Greenwell began growing coffee in the region in 1850. Now operated by his great-grandson and agricultural innovator Tom Greenwell, the farm offers free tours daily from 8:30am to 4pm. On Thursday, join volunteers baking Portuguese sweet bread in a stone oven from 10am to 1pm at the Greenwell Store Museum 
just south of the farm; bread sales ($8) start at 12:30pm and sell out quickly.
The Painted Church (St. Benedict’s) RELIGIOUS SITE Beginning in 1899, Father John Berchman Velghe (a member of the same order as St. Damien of Molokai) painted biblical scenes and images of saints inside quaint St. Benedict’s Catholic Church, built in 1842 and restored in 2002. As with stained-glass windows of yore, his pictures, created with simple house paint, were a way of sharing stories with illiterate parishioners. It’s a wonderfully trippy experience to look up at arching palm fronds and shiny stars on the ceiling. Health issues forced the priest to return to Belgium in 1904 before finishing all the pictures. The oceanview church is typically open during the day, but keep in mind it’s an active parish, with Mass celebrated five times a week.
84-5140 Painted Church Rd., Captain Cook. 808/328-2227. From Kailua-Kona, take Hwy. 11 south 20 miles to a right on Rte. 160. Go 1 mile to the 1st turnoff on the right, opposite from a King Kamehameha sign. Follow the narrow, winding road about ¼-mile to church sign and turn right. Free admission.
The Painted Church
Puuhonua O Honaunau Nat-ional Historical Park HISTORIC SITE With its fierce, haunting carved idols known as ki’i—the Hawaiian word for tiki—this sacred, 420-acre site on the black-lava Kona Coast certainly looks forbidding. To ancient Hawaiians, it served as a 16th-century place of refuge (pu’uhonua), providing sanctuary for defeated warriors and kapu (taboo) violators. A great rock wall—1,000 feet long, 10 feet high, and 17 feet thick—defines the refuge where Hawaiians found safety. On the wall’s north end is Hale O Keawe Heiau, which holds the bones of 23 Hawaiian chiefs. Other archaeological finds include a royal compound, burial sites, old trails, and a portion of an ancient village. You can learn about reconstructed thatched huts, canoes, and idols on a self-guided tour, but try to make one of the free daily ranger talks, 10:30am and 2:30pm in a covered amphitheater. Note: Only bottled water is sold in the park, but there are picnic tables on the sandy stretch of the south side.
Hwy. 160, Honaunau. From Kailua-Kona, take Hwy. 11 south 20 miles to a right on Hwy. 160. Head 3½ miles and turn left at park sign. www.nps.gov/puho. 808/328-2288. $15 per vehicle; $10 per motorcycle; $7 per person on foot or bicycle; good for 7 days. Visitor center daily 8:30am–4:30pm; park daily 7am–sunset.
Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park
South Kohala
Hamakua Macadamia Nut Factory FACTORY TOUR The self-guided tour of shelling, roasting, and other processing that results in flavored macadamia nuts and confections is not that compelling if production has stopped for the day, so go before 3pm or plan to watch a video to get caught up. But who are we kidding—it’s really all about the free tastings here, generous samples of big, fresh nuts in island flavors such as chili “peppah,” Spam, and Kona-coffee glazed. Outside the hilltop factory warehouse are picnic tables with an ocean view.
61-3251 Maluokalani St., Kawaihae. www.hawnnut.com. 888/643-6688 or 808/882-1690. Free. Daily 9am–5:30pm. From Kawaihae Harbor, take Hwy. 270 north ¾-mile, turn right on Maluokalani St., and drive ⅕-mile uphill; factory is on right.
Kohala Petrogylph Fields ROCK CARVINGS The Hawaiian petroglyphs are a great enigma of the Pacific—no one knows who made them or why. They appear at 135 different sites on six inhabited islands, but most are found on the Big Island, and include images of dancers and paddlers, fishermen and chiefs, and tools of daily life such as fish hooks and canoes. The most common representations are family groups, while some petroglyphs depict post–European contact objects such as ships, anchors, horses, and guns. Simple circles with dots were used to mark the puka, or holes, where parents would place their child’s umbilical cord (piko).
Tucked between coffee orchards in the uplands of Keauhou, the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, 78-6772 Makenawai St., Kailua-Kona (www.ohcf.us; 888/447-2626 and 808/322-2626) began growing cacao in 1993. It was the first in the islands to produce 100% Hawaiian chocolate. The 1-hour walking tour ($17 adults, free for kids under 12) includes the orchard, small factory, and chocolate sampling, plus the option to buy the expensive but delectable chocolate bars and pieces shaped like plumeria flowers. Tours are at 9am Wednesday and 9 and 11am Friday by reservation only; book well in advance. The factory store is open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 3pm.
The largest concentration of these stone symbols in the Pacific lies in the 233-acre Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve next to the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, at the Mauna Lani Resort. Some 3,000 designs have been identified. The 1.5-mile Malama Trail through a kiawe field to the large, reddish lava field starts north of the hotel, makai side. Take Highway 19 to the resort turnoff and drive toward the coast on North Kaniku Drive, which ends at the Holoholokai Beach parking lot; the trailhead on your right is marked by a sign and interpretive kiosk. Go in the early morning or late afternoon when it’s cooler; bring water, wear shoes with sturdy soles (to avoid kiawe thorns), and stay on the trail.
Local expert Kalei’ula Kaneau leads a free 1-hour tour of the petroglyphs near the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort Thursdays and Fridays at 9:30am; meet lakeside by Island Fish & Chips. You can also follow the signs to the trail through the petroglyph field on your own, but be aware that the trail is exposed, uneven, and rough; wear closed-toe shoes, a hat, and sunscreen.
Note: The petroglyphs are thousands of years old and easily destroyed. Do not walk on them or take rubbings (the Puako preserve has a replica petroglyph you may use instead). The best way to capture a petroglyph is with a photo in the late afternoon when the shadows are long.
Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site HISTORIC SITE This seacoast temple, called “the hill of the whale,” is the single most imposing and dramatic structure of the early Hawaiians, built by Kamehameha I from 1790 to 1791. The heiau stands 224 feet long by 100 feet wide, with three narrow terraces on the seaside and an amphitheater to view canoes. Kamehameha built this temple to Ku, the war god, after a prophet told him he would conquer and unite the islands if he did so. He also slayed his cousin on the site, and 4 years later fulfilled his kingly goal. The site includes an interactive visitor center; a smaller heiau-turned-fort; the homestead of John Young (a trusted advisor of Kamehameha); and, offshore, the submerged ruins of what is believed to be Hale O Kapuni, a shrine dedicated to the shark gods or guardian spirits called ’aumakua. (You can’t see the temple, but shark fins are often spotted slicing through the waters.) Paved trails lead around the complex, with restricted access to the heiau.
62-3601 Kawaihae Rd. (Hwy. 270, makai side, south of Kawaihae Harbor). www.nps.gov/puhe. 808/882-7218. Free. Daily 8am–4:45pm.
North Kohala
It takes some effort to reach the Kohala Historical Sites State Monument , but for those with 4WD vehicles or the ability to hike 3 miles round-trip, visiting the windswept, culturally important site on the on the island’s northern tip may be worth it. The 1,500-year-old Mookini Heiau, once used by kings to pray and offer human sacrifices, is among the oldest, largest (the size of a football field), and most significant shrines in Hawaii. It’s off a coastal dirt road, 1½ miles southwest of ‘Upolu Airport (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii; Thurs–Tues 9am–8pm; free admission).
King Kamehameha Statue MONUMENT Here stands King Kamehameha the Great, right arm outstretched, left arm holding a spear, as if guarding the seniors who have turned a century-old, New England–style courthouse into an airy civic center. There’s one just like it in Honolulu, across the street from Iolani Palace, and another in the U.S. Capitol, but this is the original: an 8-foot, 6-inch bronze by Thomas R. Gould, a Boston sculptor. Cast in Europe in 1880, it was lost at sea on its way to Hawaii. After a sea captain recovered the statue, it was placed here, near Kamehameha’s Kohala birthplace, in 1912. The unifier of the islands, Kamehameha is believed to have been born in 1758 under Halley’s Comet and became ruler of Hawaii in 1810. He died in Kailua-Kona in 1819, but his burial site remains a mystery.
In front of North Kohala Civic Center, mauka side of Hwy. 270, Kapaau, just north of Kapaau Rd.
Lapakahi State Historical Park HISTORIC SITE This 14th-century fishing village on a hot, dry, dusty stretch of coast offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of the ancients. Lapakahi is the best-preserved fishing village in Hawaii. Take the self-guided, 1-mile loop trail past stone platforms, fish shrines, rock shelters, salt pans, and restored hale (houses) to a coral-sand beach and the deep-blue sea of Koai‘e Cove, a marine life conservation district. Wear good walking shoes and a hat, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to beat the heat, and bring your own water. Facilities include portable toilets and picnic tables.
Makai side of Hwy. 270, Mahukona, 12.4 miles north of Kawaihae. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. 808/327-4958. Free. Daily 8am–4pm.
Pololu Valley Lookout NATURAL ATTRACTION At this end-of-the-road scenic lookout, you can gaze at the vertical dark-green cliffs of the Hamakua Coast and two islets offshore or peer back into the often-misty uplands. The view may look familiar once you get here—it often appears on travel posters. Adventurous travelers should take the switchback trail (a good 45-min. hike) to a secluded black-sand beach at the mouth of a wild valley once planted in taro. Bring water and bug spray, avoid the surf (subject to strong currents), and refrain from creating new stacks of rocks, which disrupt the beach ecology.
At the northern end of Hwy. 270, 5½ miles east of Kapaau.
Waimea & Mauna Kea
Mauna Kea NATURAL ATTRACTION The 13,796-foot summit of Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain if measured from its base on the ocean floor, is one of the best places on earth for astronomical observations, thanks to pollution-free skies, pitch-black nights, and a tropical location. Here are the world’s largest telescopes—and at press time, some environmentalists and Native Hawaiians who still worship here were fighting construction of an even larger one—but the stargazing is fantastic even with the naked eye. Note: Some spell it Maunakea, a contraction of Mauna a Wakea, or “the mountain of Wakea” (said to be the sky father and ancestor of all Hawaiians), in lieu of Mauna Kea, or “white mountain.”
Safety Tips Before heading out, make sure you have four-wheel drive and a full gas tank, and check current weather and road conditions (http://mkwc.ifa.hawaii.edu/current/road-conditions; 808/935-6268). The drive via Saddle Road (Hwy. 200) to the visitor center takes about an hour from Hilo and 90 minutes from Kailua-Kona; stay at least 30 minutes to acclimate before ascending to the summit, a half-hour further on a steep, largely unpaved road. Dress warmly: It’s chilly and windy by day, and after dark, temperatures drop into the 30s (from 3°C to -1°C). To avoid the bends, don’t go within 24 hours of scuba diving; pregnant women, children under 16, and those with heart or lung conditions should also skip this trip. At night, bring a flashlight, with a red filter to reduce glare. Note: Many rental-car agencies ban driving on remote Saddle Road, so a private tour, while pricey, is probably the safest and easiest bet (see “Seeing Stars While Others Drive,” below).
Visitor Center Named for Ellison Onizuka, the Big Island astronaut aboard the ill-fated Challenger, the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station (www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis; 808/961-2180) is 6¼ miles up Summit Road and at 9,200 feet elevation. It’s open daily noon to 10pm, with interactive exhibits, 24-hour restrooms, and a bookstore with food, drink, gloves, and other gear for sale. Day visitors can peer through a solar telescope. From 6 to 10pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday (weather dependent), a guide leads a free stargazing program that starts with a screening of First Light, a documentary about the cultural and astronomical significance of Mauna Kea. Note: In peak seasons the parking lot can fill up quickly, with long lines for telescopes. Check the website for special cultural or science programs at 6pm Saturday, preceding the stargazing.
On the way to Mauna Kea
seeing stars While Others Drive
Two excellent companies offer Mauna Kea tour packages that provide cold-weather gear, dinner, hot drinks, guided stargazing, and, best of all, someone else to worry about maneuvering the narrow, unpaved road to the summit. All tours are offered weather permitting, but most nights are clear—that’s why the observatories are here, after all—with pickups from several locations. Read the fine print on health and age restrictions before booking, and don’t forget to tip your guide ($10–$20 per person).
Hawaii Forest & Trail (www.hawaii-forest.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505), the island’s premier outfitter, operates a daily Maunakea Summit & Stars Adventure, which includes a late-afternoon picnic dinner, sunset at the summit, and stargazing at the visitor center, for $221. The company uses two customized off-road buses (14 passengers max each) for the 7- to 8-hour tour. Early risers can take advantage of jet lag for the exclusive Maunakea Sunrise Experience ($197), which departs at 3:15am and includes breakfast, allows you to see the night sky on the slope of the mountain and sunrise at the top. A daytime option from Hilo, Maunakea Voyage ($179) offers lunch and a private tour of the Imiloa Astronomy Center, with a peek inside a summit observatory. Like all of Hawaii Forest & Trail’s tours, these are exceptional, with well-informed guides.
Monty “Pat” Wright was the first to run a Mauna Kea stargazing tour when he launched Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com; 888/322-2366 or 808/322-2366) in 1983. Guests now ride in a large-windowed, four-wheel-drive (4WD) van instead of a Land Cruiser and don parkas instead of old sweaters; otherwise, it’s much the same, with veggie lasagna for dinner at the visitor center before a spectacular sunset and stargazing. The 7½- to 8-hour tour costs $216.
Observatories at Maunakea
At the Summit It’s another steep 6 miles, most of them unpaved, to the summit from the visitor center. If you’re driving, make sure your 4WD vehicle has plenty of gas and is in good condition before continuing on. Up here, 11 nations have set up 13 peerless infrared telescopes to look into deep space, making this the world’s largest astronomical observatory. The W. M. Keck Observatory has a visitor gallery, open weekdays 10am–4pm, with informational panels, restrooms, and a viewing area of the eight-story-high telescope and dome (you can also visit its Waimea headquarters; see www.keckobservatory.org for details). For cultural reasons, visitors are discouraged from hiking the footpath across the road to the actual, unmarked summit where ancient astronomers and priests came to study the skies and where Native Hawaiians still worship today. No matter: From the summit parking lot you have an unparalleled view of other peaks, such as Mauna Loa and Haleakala, and the bright Pacific.
Another sacred site is Lake Waiau, which, at 13,020 feet above sea level, is one of the highest in the world. Although it shrinks drastically in time of drought, it has never dried up. It’s named for one of the sisters of Poliahu, the snow goddess said to make her home atop Mauna Kea. To see it, you must take a brief hike: At Park 3, the first intersection on the road to the summit above the visitor center, follow the trail to the south for .5-mile, then take branch to the right that leads to the top of a crater and the small, greenish lake. Note: Please respect cultural traditions by not drinking or entering the water, and leave all rocks undisturbed.
Lake Waiau, inside the cinder cone just below the summit of Mauna Kea
The Hamakua Coast
Don’t forget bug spray when exploring this warm, moist region, beloved by mosquitoes, and be ready for passing showers—you’re in rainbow territory here. Note: Some sights below are in the North Hilo district, just south of the official Hamakua district, which shares its rural character.
Akaka Falls State Park NATURAL ATTRACTION See one of the most scenic waterfalls in Hawaii via a relatively easy .4-mile paved loop through a rainforest, past bamboo and flowering ginger, and down to an observation point. You’ll have a perfect view of 442-foot Akaka Falls, plunging down a horseshoe-shaped green cliff, and nearby Kahuna Falls, a mere 100-footer. Keep your eyes peeled for rainbows; your ears are likely to pick up the two-note chirp of coqui frogs (see below). Facilities include restrooms and drinking water.
End of Akaka Falls Rd. (Hwy. 220), Honomu. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. From Hilo, drive north 8 miles on Hwy. 19 to left at Akaka Falls Rd. Follow 3½ miles to parking lot. $5 per car, $1 per person on foot or bicycle. Walk-ins sunrise to sunset, parking lot 8:30am–6pm daily.
Akaka Falls
That loud, chirping noise you hear after dark, especially on the eastern side of the Big Island, is the cry of the male coqui frog looking for a mate. A native of Puerto Rico, where the frogs are kept in check by snakes, the coqui frog came to Hawaii in some plant material, found no natural enemies, and spread quickly across the Big Island, concentrated on the Hilo side. (A handful have made it to Oahu, Maui, and Kauai, where they’ve been swiftly captured by state agriculture teams devoted to eradicating the invasive species.) A few frogs will sound like singing birds; a chorus of thousands can be deafening—and on Hawaii Island, they can reach densities of up to 10,000 an acre. Coqui frogs don’t like the cool weather of Waimea and Volcano as much, but anywhere else that’s lush and rural is likely to have large populations. Pack earplugs if you’re a light sleeper.
Botanical World Adventures WATERFALL/GARDEN Just north of Hilo is one of the largest botanical gardens in Hawaii, with some 5,000 species. Although it no longer offers a vista of spectacular, triple-stacked Umauma Falls (see below), it still lays claim to a huge children’s maze (second in size only to Dole Plantation’s on Oahu), a tropical fruit arboretum, ethnobotanical and wellness gardens, and flower-lined walks. Waterfall lovers will be heartened to note that the owners have also created a road and trail leading to viewing areas above and below the previously hidden 100-foot Kamaee Falls ($6 if you want to go there only), as well as a trail leading past a series of shorter, bubbling cascades in Hanapueo Stream. If that’s just too peaceful for you, opt for one of the Segway tours, ranging from 30 minutes to 3 hours ($57–$187) or a zipline tour ($167), which like guided walks should be reserved in advance. All tour rates include garden admission.
31-240 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Hakalau. www.worldbotanicalgardens.com. 888/947-4753 or 808/963-5427. $15 adults, $7 teens 13–17, $3 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Guided 2-hr. garden tours $57 adults, $33 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under; guided rainforest/waterfall tours $129. Guided tours require 24-hr. advance reservations. Daily 9am–5:30pm. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north past mile marker 16, turn left on Leopolino Rd., and then right on Old Mamalahoa Hwy.; entrance is ⅒-mile on right.
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden GARDEN More than 2,000 species of tropical plants thrive in this little-known Eden by the sea. The 40-acre valley garden, nestled between the crashing surf and a thundering waterfall, includes torch gingers (which tower on 12-ft. stalks), a banyan canyon, an orchid garden, a banana grove, a bromeliad hill, an anthurium corner, and a golden bamboo grove, which rattles like a jungle drum in the trade winds. Some endangered Hawaiian specimens, such as the rare Gardenia remyi, flourish in this habitat. The self-guided tour takes about 90 minutes, but you’re welcome to linger. Pick up a loaner umbrella in the visitor center, where you register, so that passing showers don’t curtail your visit. Note: You enter and exit the garden via a 500-foot-long boardwalk that descends along a verdant ravine. Free golf-cart assistance is provided for wheelchair users to reach the wheelchair-accessible path below; for those without wheelchairs but with limited physical ability, the cost to ride the cart there and back is $5.
27-717 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. (4-Mile Scenic Route), Papaikou. www.htbg.com. 808/964-5233. $20 adults, $5 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9am–5pm (last entry 4pm). From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north 7 miles to right turn on Scenic Route; visitor center is 2 miles on the left.
When the Hamakua Sugar Company—the Big Island’s last sugar plantation—closed in 1996, it left a huge void in the local economy, transforming already shrinking villages into near ghost towns. But some residents turned to specialty crops that are now sought after by chefs throughout the islands. Hidden in the tall eucalyptus trees outside the old plantation community of Paauilo, the Hawaiian Vanilla Company 
(www.hawaiianvanilla.com; 808/776-1771) is the first U.S. farm to grow vanilla. Before you even enter the huge Vanilla Gallery, you will be embraced by the heavenly scent of vanilla. The farm hosts one of the most sensuous experiences on the island, the four-course Hawaiian Vanilla Luncheon ($42 for age 12 and up; $28 for kids 4–11), served weekdays from 12:30 to 2:30pm. The 45-minute Farm Tour ($25 for age 4 and up; free for kids 3 and under), including dessert and tastings, takes place weekdays at 1pm. Reservations required for luncheon or tour; the gallery and gift shop are open 10am to 3pm Monday through Saturday.
Laupahoehoe Point HISTORIC SITE/NATURAL ATTRACTION This idyllic place holds a grim reminder of nature’s fury. On April 1, 1946, a tsunami swept across the schoolhouse that once stood on this peninsula of leaf-shaped lava (laupāhoehoe) and claimed the lives of 24 students, teachers, and residents. Their names are engraved on a stone memorial in this pretty little beach park, and a display holds newspaper stories on the tragedy. The land here ends in black sea stacks that resemble tombstones; when high surf crashes on them, it’s positively spooky (and dangerous if you stand too close). The unprotected shoreline is not a place to swim, but the views are spectacular. Facilities include restrooms, picnic tables, and drinking water.
Laupahoehoe. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north 25 miles to Laupahoehoe Point exit, makai side; the exit is 31 miles south of Waimea.
Umauma Falls WATERFALL/GARDEN Formerly accessed through Botanical World Adventures (above), the triple-tiered, cascading pools of Umauma Falls are now the exclusive province of visitors to the neighboring Umauma Experience, which offers an array of ziplining, rappelling, swimming, and kayaking excursions on its lush 90 acres. The less adventurous can also just pay $10 to drive the paved road to the waterfall lookout, and then take a self-guided garden hike with several more overlooks; it’s worth it. Pick up a map at the visitor center, which also sells snacks and drinks. You can enjoy your repast at the river walk’s observation area, under guava trees (feel free to sample their fruit when ripe), or on the visitor center’s back lanai, which overlooks the river, a giant swing for daredevils ($20 per ride), and the last line on the zip course (see “Ziplining” on p. 254). Note: Book online for best rates. Also, the swim in a waterfall pool allows a peek in one of the only petroglyphs on the island’s east side.
31-313 Old Mamalahoa Hwy., Hakalau. http://umaumaexperience.com. 808/930-9477. $10 adults, free for children 11 and under; includes waterfall viewing, garden, and river walk. Daily 8am–5pm. Various times: Zipline tours $189–$239; waterfall rappelling $285; kayak/swim/picnic $49. On demand: Giant swing, $20. From Hilo, take Hwy. 19 north past mile marker 16, turn left on Leopolino Rd., then right on Old Mamalahoa Hwy., and follow ½-mile to entrance.
Waipio Valley NATURAL ATTRACTION/HISTORIC SITE This breathtakingly beautiful valley has long been a source of fascination, inspiring song and story. From the black-sand bay at its mouth, Waipio (“curving water”) sweeps 6 miles between sheer, cathedral-like walls some 2,000 feet high. The tallest waterfall in Hawaii, Hiilawe, tumbles 1,300 feet from its rear cliffs. Called “the valley of kings” for the royal burial caves dotting forbiddingly steep walls, this was Kamehameha’s boyhood residence; up to 10,000 Hawaiians are thought to have lived here before Westerners arrived. Chinese immigrants later joined them and a modest town arose, but it was destroyed in 1946 by the same tsunami that devastated Hilo and Laupahoehoe, though luckily without fatalities. The town was never rebuilt; only about 50 people live here today, most with no electricity or phones, although others come down on weekends to tend taro patches, camp, and fish.
Saddle up for a horseback ride in lush Waipio Valley
To get to Waipio Valley, take Highway 19 from Waimea or Hilo to Highway 240 in Honokaa, and follow the highway almost 10 miles to Kukuihaele Road and the Waipio Valley Lookout , a grassy park and picnic area on the edge of Waipio Valley’s sheer cliffs, with splendid views of the wild oasis below.
To explore the valley itself, a guided tour is best, for reasons of safety and access. The steep road has a grade of nearly 40% in places and is narrow and potholed; by law, you must use a 4WD vehicle, but even then rental-car agencies ban their vehicles from it, to avoid pricey tow jobs. Hiking down the 900-foot-road is hard on the knees going down and the lungs coming up, and requires dodging cars in both directions. Most of the valley floor is privately owned, with trespassing actively discouraged. Note that unmarked burial sites lie just behind the black-sand beach, which is not good for swimming or snorkeling and has no facilities.
Instead, book a ride on the Waipio Valley Shuttle (www.waipiovalleyshuttle.com; 808/775-7121) for a 90- to 120-minute guided tour that begins with an exciting (and bumpy) drive down in an open-door van. Once on the valley floor, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Hiilawe, plus a narrated tour of the taro patches (lo’i) and ruins from the 1946 tsunami. The tour is offered Monday through Saturday at 9am, 11am, 1pm, and 3pm; tickets are $59 for adults and $32 for kids 10 and under (minimum two adult fares); reservations recommended. Check-in is less than a mile from the lookout at Waipio Valley Artworks (www.waipiovalleyartworks.com; 808/775-0958), on Kukuihaele Road. Waipio Valley Artworks is also the pickup point for Naalapa Stables’ Waipio Valley Horseback Adventure (www.naalapastables.com; 808/755-0419), a 2½-hour guided ride ($94) for ages 8 and up; see “Horseback Riding” (p. 252) for details.
All ages may ride the mule-drawn surrey of Waipio Valley Wagon Tours (www.waipiovalleywagontours.com; 808/775-9518), on a narrated, 90-minute excursion that starts with a van trip to the valley stables. Tours run Monday through Saturday at 10:30am, 12:30pm, and 2:30pm; cost is $60 adults, $55 seniors 65 and older, $30 children 3 to 11, and free for 2 and younger. Reservations are a must; weight distribution is a factor. Check-in is at Neptune’s Gardens Gallery on Kukuihaele Road (www.neptunesgarden.net; 808/775-1343).
Pick up the map to a self-guided walking tour of Hilo, which focuses on 21 historic sites dating from the 1870s to the present, at the information kiosk of the Downtown Hilo Improvement Association (www.downtownhilo.com; 808/935-8850) in the Mooheau Bus Depot, 329 Kamehameha Ave.—the first stop on the tour.
Hilo Bay NATURAL ATTRACTION Old banyan trees shade Banyan Drive , the lane that curves along the waterfront from Kamehameha Avenue (Hwy. 19) to the Hilo Bay hotels. Most of the trees were planted in the mid-1930s by visitors like Cecil B. DeMille (here in 1933 filming Four Frightened People), Babe Ruth (his tree is in front of the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel), King George V, Amelia Earhart, and celebs whose fleeting fame didn’t last as long as the trees themselves.
It’s worth a stop along Banyan Drive—especially if the coast is clear and the summit of Mauna Kea is free of clouds—to make the short walk across the concrete-arch bridge to Moku Ola (Coconut Island) , if only to gain a panoramic sense of Hilo Bay and its surroundings.
Continuing on Banyan Drive, just south of Coconut Island, are Liliuokalani Gardens , the largest formal Japanese garden this side of Tokyo. The 30-acre park, named for the last monarch of Hawaii, Queen Liliuokalani, and dedicated in 1917 to the islands’ first Japanese immigrants, is as pretty as a postcard (if occasionally a little unkempt), with stone lanterns, koi ponds, pagodas, rock gardens, bonsai, and a moon-gate bridge. Admission is free; it’s open 24 hours.
Kaumana Caves Park NATURAL ATTRACTION Pick up an inexpensive flashlight or headlight ($5–$15) at Walmart in Hilo or Kona before visiting this wilder, longer sibling to the more famous Nahuku (Thurston) lava tube (p. 215) in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. As the sign warns, there are “no lights, no walkway” in this eerily fascinating set of caves formed by an 1881 lava flow that threatened downtown Hilo. Princess Ruth Keelikolani is credited with saving the town by praying to Pele to halt the lava. You can thank the county for maintaining the steep concrete stairs leading into the lava tube’s fern-lined “skylight,” where the larger right entrance offers a short loop trail and the left entrance leads to a more challenging (that is, watch your head) out-and-back path. Your flashlight will help you spot the lava that cooled fast enough to keep its red cover, and help you avoid stumbling over protruding roots. Wear long sleeves, since it can be cool and dripping, and sturdy shoes, to avoid slipping on the often-slick cave floor.
Kaumana Dr. (Hwy. 200), west of Akala Road (4-mile marker), Hilo. Driving from Hilo, caves are on right and parking lot is on left; cross road carefully. Free.
Lyman Museum & Mission House MUSEUM/HISTORIC SITE Yankee missionaries Rev. David and Sarah Lyman had been married for just 24 days before they set sail for Hawaii in 1832, arriving 6 months later in a beautiful but utterly foreign land. Seven years later, they built this two-story home for their growing family (eventually seven children) in a blend of Hawaiian and New England design, with plastered walls, koa floors, and lanais on both floors. It’s now the Mission House, a museum of 19th-century missionary life. You can only visit the house as part of a guided tour, offered twice daily except Sunday.
The larger, modern Lyman Museum next door gives a broader perspective of Hawaiian history and culture. Walk through a lava tube and make your way through multiple climate zones in the Earth Heritage Gallery’s “Habitats of Hawaii” exhibit, with recorded bird sounds and full-scale replicas of sea life; mineral and shell enthusiasts can pore over an extensive collection. The Island Heritage Gallery examines the life of early Hawaiians, with artifacts such as stone poi pounders, wooden bowls, and kapa, the delicate bark cloth; other displays showcase clothing and other artifacts of plantation-era immigrant cultures.
276 Haili St. (at Kapiolani St.). www.lymanmuseum.org. 808/935-5021. $10 adults, $8 seniors 60 and over, $5 college students, $3 children 6–17; $21 per family. Mon–Sat 10am–4:30pm; guided house tours at 11am and 2pm (call to reserve).
Maunaloa Macadamia Nut Factory FACTORY TOUR It’s a 3-mile drive through macadamia nut orchards before you reach the visitor center of this factory, where you can learn how the islands’ favorite nut is grown and processed. (It’s best to visit weekdays, when the actual husking, drying, roasting, and candy-making takes place; otherwise, you can watch short videos at each station.) The gift shop—mobbed when tour buses are in the parking lot—offers free samples and predictable souvenirs; a few items, such as Maunaloa chocolate-dipped macadamia nut shortbread, appear to be exclusive.
16-701 Macadamia Nut Rd., Keaau (5 miles from Hilo, 20 miles from Hawaii Volcanoes National Park). www.maunaloa.com/visitor-center. 888/628-6256 or 808/966-8618. Free; self-guided factory tours. Daily 8:30am–5pm (factory closed weekdays and holidays). Heading south from Hilo on Hwy. 11, turn left on Macadamia Nut Rd., and head 3 miles to factory; it’s 20 miles north of Volcano.
Mokupapapa Discovery Center MUSEUM You may never get to the vast coral-reef system that is the Northwest Hawaiian Islands—the protected chain of islets and atolls spanning 1,200 nautical miles is remote (stretching from Nihoa, 155 miles northwest of Kauai, to Kure Atoll, 56 miles west of Midway), and visitation is severely limited. But if you’re in downtown Hilo, you can explore the wonders of the region that President George W. Bush protected as Papahanaumokuakea Marine National Monument in 2008 (and President Barack Obama expanded in 2016). Inside a handsomely renovated, century-old building, the Mokupapapa Discovery Center reveals the beauties and mysteries of the World Heritage Site’s ecosystem and its relationship with Hawaiian culture. Exhibits include a 3,500-gallon saltwater aquarium with brilliant coral and reef fish; the sounds of Hawaiian chants and seabirds; interactive displays on each of the islets; a life-size Hawaiian monk seal exhibit; and a giant mural by Hilo artist Layne Luna, who also created the life-size models of giant fish, sharks, and the manta ray. Both the content and the cost of admission—free—are great for families.
76 Kamehameha Ave. (at the corner of Waianuenue Ave.) www.papahanaumokuakea.gov/education/center.html. 808/933-8180. Free. Tues–Sat 9am–4pm.
The star attraction, literally and figuratively, of Hilo is Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawaii 
. The 300 exhibits in the 12,000-square-foot gallery make the connection between the Hawaiian culture and its explorers, who “discovered” the Hawaiian Islands, and the astronomers who explore the heavens from the observatories atop Mauna Kea. ’Imiloa means “explorer” or “seeker of profound truth,” the perfect name for this architecturally stunning center overlooking Hilo Bay on the University of Hawaii at Hilo Science and Technology Park campus, 600 Imiloa Place (www.imiloahawaii.org; 808/969-9700). Plan to spend at least a couple of hours here to allow time to browse the excellent, family-friendly interactive exhibits on astronomy and Hawaiian culture, and to take in a planetarium show, which boasts a state-of-the-art digital projection system. You’ll also want to stroll through the native plant garden, and grab a power breakfast or lunch in the Sky Garden Restaurant ( 808/969-9753), open 7am to 4pm Tuesday through Sunday; the restaurant is also open for dinner Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 8:30pm. The center itself is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 5pm; admission is $18 for adults, $16 for seniors, and $10 for children 4 to 12, and free for kids under 4, and includes one planetarium show; additional shows are $5 for adults and $3 for children. Check online for “Word of the Day” discount ($2 off per person).
Nani Mau Gardens GARDEN In 1972 Makato Nitahara turned a 20-acre papaya patch just outside Hilo into a tropical garden. Today Nani Mau (“forever beautiful”) holds more than 2,000 varieties of plants, from fragile hibiscus, whose blooms last only a day, to durable red anthuriums imported from South America. It also has rare palms, a fruit orchard, Japanese gardens (with a bell tower built without nails), an orchid walkway, and a ginger garden. In 2012 Los Angeles tour operator Helen Koo bought the then-neglected property, restoring the gardens with the help of four full-time gardeners. She also opened a garden restaurant that’s popular with tour companies; the buffet lunch, served daily from 10:30am to 2pm, is $18 and includes garden admission.
421 Makalika St. www.nanimaugardens.com. 808/959-3500. $10 adults, $5 seniors and children 4–10; with lunch, $18 adults, $15 seniors and children 4–10. Daily 10am–3pm. From Hilo Airport, take Hwy. 11 south 2 miles to second left turn at Makalika St., and continue ¾ mile.
Pacific Tsunami Museum MUSEUM Poignant exhibits on Japan’s 2011 tsunami (which caused significant property damage on the Big Island) and the 2004 Indian Ocean tragedy have broadened the international perspective in this compact museum in a former bank, where displays explain the science of the deadly phenomenon. Still, the stories and artifacts related to Hilo’s two most recent catastrophic tsunamis are impressive, including a parking meter nearly bent in two by the force of the 1960 killer waves, and accounts from survivors of the 1946 tsunami that washed away the school at Laupahoehoe. Many of the volunteers have hair-raising stories of their own to share—but you’ll feel better after reading about the warning systems now in place.
130 Kamehameha Ave. (at the corner of Kalakaua Ave.). www.tsunami.org. 808/935-0926. $8 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.
Panaewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens ZOO/GARDEN This 12-acre zoo, in the heart of the Panaewa Forest Reserve south of Hilo, is the only outdoor rainforest zoo in the U.S. Some 80 species of animals from rainforests around the globe call Panaewa home, including tigers Tzatziki and Sriracha, as do a couple of “Kona nightingales”—donkeys that escaped decades ago from coffee farms. (Though highway signs still warn of them, virtually all were relocated to California in 2011 during a prolonged drought.) The Panaewa residents enjoy fairly natural, sometimes overgrown settings. Look for cute pygmy goats, capuchin monkeys, and giant anteaters, among other critters. This free attraction includes a covered playground popular with local families.
800 Stainback Hwy., Keaau (off Hwy. 11, 5 miles south of its intersection with Hwy. 19 in downtown Hilo). www.hilozoo.org. 808/959-7224. Free. Daily 9am–4pm. Petting zoo Sat 1:30–2:30pm.
Wailuku River State Park WATERFALL Go in the morning, around 9 or 10am, just as the sun comes over the mango trees, to see Rainbow Falls , or Waianuenue, at its best. Part of the 16-acre Wailuku River State Park, the 80-foot falls (which can be slender in times of drought) spill into a big round natural pool surrounded by wild ginger. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a rainbow created in the falls’ mist. According to legend, Hina, the mother of demigod Maui, once lived in the cave behind the falls. Swimming in the pool is not allowed, but you can follow a trail left through the trees to the top of the falls (watch your step). Swimming in Boiling Pots (Pe’epe’e in Hawaiian), a series of cascading pools 1½ miles west, is extremely risky due to flash floods, but the view from an overlook located near the parking lot is impressive.
Rainbow Falls area: Rainbow Dr., just past the intersection of Waianuenue Ave. (Hwy. 200) and Puuhina St. Boiling Pots area: end of Pe’epe’e Falls Dr., off Waianuenue Ave. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. Free. Daily during daylight hours.
Puna
Most visitors understandably want to head straight to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 213) when exploring this region, where Pele still consumes the land and creates even more. But the celebrated national park is far from the only place where you can experience Puna’s geothermal wonders, or see the destruction the volcano has wrought—provided it’s safe to do so. Note: The following itinerary became inaccessible to visitors in May 2018, when Kilauea’s Lower East Rift Zone sent lava into two neighborhoods and across Highway 137. Only Pahoa remained open to visitors at press time, but historical precedent indicates the massive new lava flow will eventually be accessible, too.
Kilauea volcano lava flow
To explore the Pahoa-Kapoho-Kalapana triangle, start with a 5-minute detour from central Pahoa to the town’s transfer station (i.e., landfill and recycling center) on Cemetery Road. There you’ll see the ominous edge of the thick but slow-moving lava flow (2014–2015) that halted only after many in its predicted path had relocated. Leilani Estates and Lanipuna Gardens residents were not so lucky in 2018, nor were the residents of Kalapana, a town covered by lava in 1990.
Along the 9-mile drive to Kalapana from the intersection of highways 130 and 132, you may spot steam vents on the makai side of the two-lane highway in the Keauohana Forest Reserve, near mile marker 15 (but do not enter them). Star of the Sea Painted Church will also be on your left, shortly before Highway 130 meets Highway 137. Built in 1930, the quaint, pale-green wooden church features an elaborately painted interior similar to St. Benedict’s in Captain Cook (p. 192). It was moved here in advance of the 1990 Kalapana lava flow. The church is open daily 9am to 4pm; visitor donations help pay for upkeep.
When lava is pouring into the sea west of Kalapan, the county has a lava viewing area (www.hawaiicounty.gov/lava-viewing) where Highway 130 meets the emergency gravel road heading into the national park. (The eruption that began in May 2018 to the east of Kalapana had created two ocean entries at press time, but they were only viewable from helicopter and lava boat tours.)
It’s much easier to visit Kalapana’s new black-sand beach, reached by walking carefully along a short red-cinder trail, past fascinating fissures and dramatically craggy rocks, where ohia lehua and coconut palms are growing rapidly. They’re used to rugged conditions, as are the people of Puna, who gather in great numbers at the open-air Uncle Robert’s Awa Club for its two weekly evening events: the vibrant Wednesday-night food and crafts market and Hawaiian music on Fridays. The rest of the week, the club sells snacks and drinks during the day “by donation” for permit purposes (be aware the staff will let you know exactly how much to donate).
From Kalapana/Kaimu, you’ll pick up Highway 137 (the Kapoho-Kalapana Rd.), and follow it east to Kapoho along 15 miles of nearly pristine coastline, past parks, forests, rugged beaches, and tide pools, some geothermally heated. The rolling, two-lane avenue is nicknamed the Red Road, for the rosy-hued cinders that once paved it.
Adventurers (or exhibitionists) may want to make the tricky hike down to unmarked Kehena Black Sand Beach , off Highway 137 about 3½ miles east of Kalapana. Here the law against public nudity is widely ignored, although the view of the ocean is usually more entrancing. (Clothed or not, avoid going into the water—currents are dangerous.) It’s easier to take a brief detour to see the waves pounding the base of ironwood-shaded cliffs in the MacKenzie State Recreation Area , 9 miles northeast of Kalapana. Another 3 miles east leads to the scenic “hot pond” at Ahalanui Park (see below); both MacKenzie and Ahalanui have picnic and restroom facilities.
Vog & Other volcanic Vocabulary
Hawaiian volcanoes have their own unique vocabulary. The lava that resembles ropy swirls of brownie batter is called pāhoehoe (pah-hoy-hoy); it results from a fast-moving flow that ripples as it moves. The chunky, craggy lava that looks like someone put asphalt in a blender is called ’a’ā (ah-ah); it’s caused by lava that moves slowly, breaking apart as it cools, and then overruns itself. Vog is smog made of volcanic gases and smoke, which can sting your eyes and over long exposure can cause respiratory issues. Present whenever there’s an active eruption, vog drifts toward Kona (and as far as Kohala) during prevailing trade winds. The state Department of Health (www.hiso2index.info) lists current air-quality advisories for the Big Island, based on sulfur dioxide levels.
From Ahalanui, Highway 137 veers inland; drive 1¾ miles to a right turn on Kapoho Kai Road and follow it about a half-mile to a marked parking area for the Waiopae Tidepools , a state marine-life conservation district (http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dar). From there, it’s about a half-mile walk to the craggy, coral-lined pools, the delight of snorkelers. With proper footwear, you can also walk along the edges of numerous tide pools, many very shallow and teeming with juvenile fish, while the breakers crash in the distance.
Back on Highway 137, head 1 mile north to Kapoho Beach Road. On your left is the Green Lake Fruit Stand, named for the unusual, freshwater Green Lake, inside nearby Kapoho Crater . The lake is actually a crater within the 360-foot-tall Kapoho Crater, formed 200 to 400 years ago. If she’s not at the stand, call caretaker Smiley Burrows ( 808/965-5500) to arrange a scenic hike or drive up the crater for $5. (You can also swim in the lake, one of only two on the island, but no one knows its depths, and algae sometimes obscure the water.)
Just east of the Green Lake Fruit Stand, Highway 137 intersects Highway 132 (Kapoho Rd.). A right turn onto unpaved Kapoho Road leads to the island’s easternmost point and Cape Kumukahi Lighthouse , which miraculously survived the 1960 lava flow that destroyed the original village of Kapoho. Who cares if its modern steel frame isn’t all that quaint? The fact that it’s standing at all is impressive—the molten lava parted in two and flowed around it—while its bright-white trusses provide a striking contrast to the black lava.
A left turn onto a paved Highway 132 takes you back 9 miles to the funky, somewhat ramshackle village of Pahoa; you pass eerie Lava Tree State Monument (see below) and the towering monkeypod and invasive albizia trees of Nanawale Forest Reserve as you go.
Ahalanui Park (Hot Pond) PARK Warmed by one of the area’s many volcanically heated springs, this balmy, shallow pool lined with lava rocks and shady trees is protected from the surging ocean by a concrete wall, although very high surf can crash over it and cool the pond. It’s not a snorkeling site per se, but silver fish use inlets to dart around the pool’s usually clear waters, while a few eels hide in the rocks; if you don’t bother the eels, they won’t bother you. Shaded by tall palms, it’s a pretty setting even if you don’t plan to go into the water (which you shouldn’t if you have any open cuts, due to possible bacteria, although the county does perform regular tests). Facilities include a lifeguard station, picnic tables, shower, and Porta-Potties—wear your bathing suit under your clothes so you don’t have to change in one.
Makai side of Hwy. 137, between mile markers 10 and 11, Pahoa (9 miles southeast of town). Free. Daily 7am–7pm (closed until 1pm 2nd Wed each month for maintenance).
Lava Tree State Monument NATURAL ATTRACTION In 1790, a fast-moving lava flow raced through a grove of ohia lehua trees here, cooling quickly and creating lava rock molds of their trunks. Today the ghostly sentinels punctuate a well-shaded, paved .7-mile loop trail through the rich foliage of the 17-acre park. Facilities include restrooms and a few spots for picnicking (or ducking out of the rain during one of the area’s frequent showers). Some areas with deep fissures are fenced off, but keep to the trail regardless for safe footing.
Makai side of Hwy. 132 (Pahoa–Pohoiki Rd.), 2¾ miles southeast of Pahoa. http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii. Free. Daily during daylight hours.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Before tourism became the islands’ middle name, their singular attraction for visitors wasn’t the beach, but the volcano. From the world over, curious spectators gathered on the rim of Kilauea’s Halemaumau crater to see one of the greatest wonders of the globe. A century after it was named a national park in 1916, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo; 808/985-6000) remains the state’s premier natural attraction, home to two active volcanoes and one of only two World Heritage Sites in the islands.
Note: In May 2018, Halemaumau was rattled by earthquakes and its lava lake started to drain. At the same time lava started coursing through fissures in Puna, the crater began expelling ash and rocks in a manner not seen since a two-week period in 1924, when boulders landed a half-mile away due to steam explosions caused by magma sinking into the water table. The summit area closed for safety reasons, but was expected to reopen in 2018 after the seismic activity and explosions ended.
Sadly, after driving about 100 miles from Kailua-Kona or 29 miles from Hilo, many visitors pause only briefly by the highlights along Crater Rim Drive before heading back to their hotels. To allow the majesty and mana (spiritual energy) of this special place to sink in, you should really take at least 3 days—and certainly 1 night—to explore the park, including its miles of trails.
Fortunately, the admission fee ($25 per vehicle, $12 per bicyclist or hiker) is good for 7 days. Be prepared for rain and bring a jacket, especially in winter, when it can be downright chilly at night, in the 40s or 50s (single digits to midteens Celsius). Note: For details on hiking and camping in the park, see “Hiking” (p. 249) and “Camping” (p. 271).
Crater Rim Drive Tour
Stop by the Kilauea Visitor Center (daily 9am–5pm) to get the latest updates on lava flows and the day’s free ranger-led tours and to watch an informative 25-minute film, shown on the hour from 9am to 4pm. Just beyond the center lies vast Kilauea Caldera , a circular depression nearly 2 miles by 3 miles and 540 feet deep. It’s easy to imagine Mark Twain marveling over the sights here in 1866, when a wide, molten lava lake bubbled within view in the caldera’s Halemaumau Crater , itself 3,000 feet across and 300 feet deep.
Though different today, the caldera’s panorama is still compelling. Since 2008, a plume of ash, often visible from miles away, has billowed from Halemaumau, the legendary home of Pele. The sulfurous smoke has forced the ongoing closure of nearly half of Crater Rim Drive, now just a 6-mile crescent. The fumes normally drift northwest, where they often create vog (see “Vog & Other Volcanic Vocabulary” on p. 212), to the dismay of Kona residents. (Scientists monitor the park’s air quality closely, just in case the plume changes direction, with rangers ready to evacuate the park quickly if needed.) However, the plume may disappear, along with the lava lake that once caused it to glow in the evening, once the eruption that began May 2018 has ended. Volcano House (p. 270), the only public lodge and restaurant in the park, has an impressive view regardless.
Less than a mile from the visitor center, several steam vents line the rim of the caldera, puffing out moist warm air. Across the road, a boardwalk leads through the stinky, smoking sulphur banks , home to ohia lehua trees and unfazed native birds. (As with all trails here, stay on the path to avoid possible serious injury, or worse.)
The observation deck at Thomas A. Jaggar Museum offers a prime spot for viewing the crater, especially at night. By day you can also see the vast, barren Kau Desert and the massive sloping flank of Mauna Loa. The museum itself is open daily 10am to 8pm, and admission is free; watch videos from the days when the volcano was really spewing, learn about the cultural significance of Pele, and track earthquakes (a precursor of eruptions) on a seismograph.
Heading southeast from the visitor center, Crater Rim Drive passes by the smaller but still impressive Kilauea Iki Crater , which in 1959 was a roiling lava lake flinging lava 1,900 feet into the air. From here, you can walk or drive to Thurston Lava Tube , a 500-year-old lava cave in a pit of giant tree ferns. Also called Nahuku, it’s partly illuminated, but take a flashlight and wear sturdy shoes so you can explore the unlit area for another half-mile or so.
Continuing on Crater Rim Drive leads to the Puu Puai Overlook of Kilauea Iki, where you find the upper trailhead of the aptly named half-mile Devastation Trail , an easy walk through a cinder field that ends where Crater Rim Drive meets Chain of Craters Road .
Pedestrians and cyclists only can continue on Crater Rim Drive for the next .8 mile of road, closed to vehicular traffic since the 2008 eruption. The little-traveled pavement leads to Keanakakoi Crater , scene of several eruptions in the 19th and 20th centuries. It provides yet another dazzling perspective on the Kilauea Caldera; turn your gaze north for an impressive view of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, the world’s two highest mountains when measured from the sea floor.
Please Brake for Nene |
Nene, the endangered native Hawaiian goose and state bird, are making a comeback in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and other high-altitude areas in the islands, where they feast on the cranberry-like ohelo berries that grow at upper elevations. Unfortunately, these uplands are often misty, and the birds’ feathers blend easily with the pavement, making it hard for inattentive drivers to see them. Drive carefully, and to discourage nene from approaching cars, don’t feed them.
Chain of Craters Road
It’s natural to drive slowly down the 19-mile Chain of Craters Road, which descends 3,700 feet to the sea and ends in a thick black mass of rock from a 2003 lava flow. You feel like you’re driving on the moon, if the lunar horizon were a brilliant blue sea. Pack food and water for the journey, since there are officially no concessions after you pass the Volcano House; the nearest fuel lies outside the park, in Volcano Village.
Two miles down, before the road really starts twisting, the one-lane, 8½-mile Hilina Pali Road veers off to the west, crossing windy scrublands and old lava flows. The payoff is at the end, where you stand nearly 2,300 feet above the coast along the rugged 12-mile pali (cliff). Some of the most challenging trails in the park, across the Kau Desert and down to the coast, start here.
Back on Chain of Craters Road, 10 miles below the Crater Rim Drive junction, the picnic shelter at Kealakomo provides another sweeping coastal vista. At mile marker 16.5, you’ll see the parking lot for Puu Loa , an enormous field of some 23,000 petroglyphs—the largest in the islands. A three-quarter-mile, gently rolling lava trail leads to a boardwalk where you can view the stone carvings, 85% of which are puka, or holes (aka cupules); Hawaiians often placed their infants’ umbilical cords in them. At the end of the paved Chain of Craters Road, a lookout area allows a glimpse of 90-foot Holei Sea Arch , one of several striking formations carved in the oceanside cliffs. Stop by the ranger station before treading carefully across the 21st-century lava, “some of the youngest land on Earth,” as the park calls it, or heading out on foot or mountain bike across the gravel emergency road. Bear in mind it’s a slow drive back up in the dark.
At the end of 11 miles of bad road that peters out at Kaulana Bay, in the lee of a jagged, black-lava point, is Ka Lae (“The Point”)—the tail end of the United States, often called South Point. From the tip, the nearest continental landfall is Antarctica, 7,500 miles away. It’s a rugged 2-mile hike down a cliff from Ka Lae to the anomaly known as Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach , described on p. 229. In May, the 10-day Kau Coffee Festival (www.kaucoffeefestival.com) in Pahala includes hikes, music, hula, and farm tours.
Kahuku Unit, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park NATURAL ATTRACTION Few visitors are familiar with this 116,000-acre portion of the national park, some 24 miles from the Kilauea Visitor Center and accessible only since 2009. It’s typically open just 3 days a week, although in May 2018 it temporarily expanded hours after eruptions forced the Kilauea summit area to close. You can hike through forest and fields that include a cinder cone, tree molds from an 1866 lava flow, and ranch-era relics. Rangers also frequently lead free hikes; check the online schedule. Note: There are restrooms but no drinking water.
Mauka side of Hwy. 11, btw mile markers 70 and 71, Pahala. www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/kahuku-hikes.htm. 808/985-6000. Free. Fri–Sun 9am–3pm.
Kau Coffee Mill FACTORY TOUR In the former sugarcane fields on the slopes of Mauna Loa, a number of small farmers are growing coffee beans whose quality equals—some say surpasses—Kona’s. More and more tasting competitions seem to agree; in any case, this farm and mill in tiny Pahala provides an excellent excuse to break up the long drive to the main entrance of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, 23 miles northeast. Free 45-minute tours are offered daily; enjoy tastings of coffee and macadamia nuts throughout the day in the pleasant visitor center and gift shop, which also has smoothies and sandwiches for sale.
96-2694 Wood Valley Rd., Pahala. http://kaucoffeemill.com. 808/928-0550. Free. Daily 9am–4:30pm. Guided tours 10am, noon, and 2pm, weather permitting. From Kailua-Kona, take Hwy. 11 71 miles to a left on Kamani St., take 3rd right at Pikake St., which becomes Wood Valley Rd., and follow uphill 2½ miles to farm on left.
Kula Kai Caverns NATURAL ATTRACTION Ric Elhard and Rose Herrera have explored and mapped out the labyrinth of lava tubes and caves, carved out over the past 1,000 years or so, that crisscross their property near Ka Lae. Their “expeditions” range from the Lighted Trail tour, an easy, half-hour walk suitable for families, to longer (up to 2 hr.), more adventurous caving trips, where you crawl through tunnels and wind through labyrinthine passages (some restricted to kids 8 and older). Wear sturdy shoes.
92-8864 Lauhala Dr., Ocean View (46 miles south of Kailua-Kona). www.kulakaicaverns.com. 808/929-9725. Lighted Trail tour $20 adults, $10 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under; longer tours $60–$95 adults ($60–$65 children 8–12). By reservation only; gate security code provided at booking.
The Brute Force of the volcano
Volcanologists refer to Hawaiian volcanic eruptions as “quiet” eruptions because gases escape slowly instead of building up and exploding violently all at once. The Big Island’s eruptions produce slow-moving, oozing lava that generally provide excellent, safe viewing when they’re not in remote areas. Even so, Kilauea has still caused its share of destruction. Since the current eruption began on January 3, 1983, lava has covered more than 50 square miles of lowland and rainforest, ruining 300 homes and businesses, wiping out the pretty, black-sand beach of Kaimu, and burying other landmarks. Kilauea has also added more than 500 acres of new land on its southeastern shore. (Such land occasionally collapses under its own weight into the ocean—26 recently formed oceanfront acres slowly gave way on New Year’s Eve, 2016.) Now drained of lava, the most prominent vent of the eruption has been Puu Oo, a 760-foot-high cinder-and-spatter cone 10 miles east of Kilauea’s summit, in an off-limits natural reserve. Scientists are also keeping an eye on the active volcanoes of Mauna Loa, which has been swelling since its last eruption in 1984, and Hualalai, which hovers above Kailua-Kona and last erupted in 1801.
Organized Tours
Farms, gardens, and historic houses that may be open only to guided tours are listed under “Attractions & Points of Interest” on p. 187. For boat, kayak, bicycle, and similar tours, see listings under “Outdoor Activities.”
Helicopter Tours
Don’t believe the brochures with pictures of fountains of lava and “liquid hot magma,” as Dr. Evil would say. Although there are no guarantees you’ll see red-hot lava (and for safety reasons, you’re not going to fly all that close to it), a helicopter ride offers a unique perspective on the island’s thousands of acres of hardened black lava, Kilauea’s enormous caldera, and the remote, now eerily drained Puu Oo vent. If you’re pressed for time, a helicopter ride beats driving to the volcano and back from Kohala and Kona resorts.
Blue Hawaiian Helicopters (www.bluehawaiian.com; 800/786-2583 or 808/886-1768), a professionally run, locally based company with comfortable, top-of-the-line copters and pilots who are extremely knowledgeable about everything from volcanology to Hawaii lore, flies three different tours out of Waikoloa, at Highway 19 and Waikoloa Road. The 2-hour Big Island Spectacular stars the volcano, tropical valleys, the Hamakua Coast waterfalls, and the Kohala Mountains, and costs $589 per person ($739 with 20-minute landing at remote 1,200-foot Punalulu waterfall on the Hamakua Coast). If time is money for you, and you’ve got all that money, it’s an impressive trip, If you just want to admire waterfalls, green mountains, and the deep valleys, including Waipio, of North Kohala and the Hamakua Coast, the 50-minute Kohala Coast Adventure is a less exorbitant but reliably picturesque outing, costing $279. Both tours use the somewhat quieter Eco-Star helicopters with panoramic views from the large cockpit.
Blue Hawaiian also operates out of the Hilo airport ( 808/961-5600), flying the 50-minute Circle of Fire Plus Waterfalls tour, which is significantly cheaper—$259 to $309—because it’s closer to the volcano and waterfalls. Note: If you’re willing to drive to Hilo, you really should continue on to the national park.
The similarly professional Sunshine Helicopters (www.sunshinehelicopters.com; 866/501-7738 or 808/270-3999) offers a Volcano Deluxe Tour , a 105-minute ride out of the Hapuna heliport, which includes Kohala Mountains/Hamakua waterfalls. It’s also pricey: $530 for open seating, $614 reserved seating next to the pilot on the six-passenger Whisper Star choppers. Less of a splurge—and less dependent on the ooh factor of oozing lava—is Sunshine’s 30- to 40-minute Kohala/Hamakua Coast Tour , which hovers above waterfall-lined sea cliffs and the Pololu, Waimanu, and Waipio valleys, for $209.
Note: Book online for best rates; ask about AAA discounts if booking in person. On all rides, your weight may determine where you sit in the helicopter. Wear dark shades to prevent glare, and dress in light layers.
Van & Bus Tours
Intrigued by the island lifestyle? Take a delectable peek inside private residences and gardens on one of the culinary home tours of Home Tours Hawaii (www.hometourshawaii.com; 808/325-5772). Groups of 6 to 20 (maximum) travel in vans from Kona to unique properties, dining on either an island brunch on the 5-hour tour ($189) or a decadent, multicourse chocolate tasting on a 3-hour, cacao-themed tour ($99). The latter visits Kokoleka Lani (“Heavenly Chocolate”) Farm, where affable host Greg Colden also runs Kona Natural Soap Company.
Many of the outdoor-oriented, but not especially physically taxing, excursions of Hawaii Forest & Trail (www.hawaii-forest.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505) include a significant time in comfy vans heading to and from remote areas, with well-briefed guides providing narration along the way. Thus, they’re ideal for seeing a large chunk of the island without having to drive yourself. The island’s premier outfitter, this eco-friendly company also has exclusive access to many sites, including the waterfalls on its Kohala Waterfalls Adventure ($178 adults, $154 children 12 and under). Most of its dozen tours depart daily from several locations on the Kona side ($89–$249 adults, $79–$179 children). Bird watchers can choose from two exceptional tours, which include 2 to 4 miles of hiking over 4 hours ($197–$225 adults only). Tours from Hilo—exploring volcano country, Mauna Kea, or Hilo’s waterfalls ($129–$179 adults, $99–$139 children)—are perfect for cruise passengers or anyone else on the Hilo side. Note: Mauna Kea tours are restricted to ages 16 and older, due to the high elevation.
One of the most inspiring and memorable experiences I’ve had in Hawaii has been with Hawaiian Legacy Tours (www.hawaiianlegacytours.com; 877/707-8733), which allows visitors to help restore the native koa forest high above the Hamakua Coast. More koa means more native birds and less runoff, which can harm the reefs far below. Over its lifetime, the tree can also offset the carbon impact of a week’s vacation on this beautiful island. The freshly baked scones that await in the welcome center are pretty awesome, too.
After you check in at the handsomely restored ranch house in the tiny village of Umikoa (at 3,200 ft. elevation), guides in ATVs, or a Pinzgauer six-wheeler for larger groups, drive you even higher up the misty slopes of Mauna Kea, to the former personal forest of King Kamehameha the Great. Amid the new groves growing on the mountainside, where the mana (spiritual power) and beauty of your surroundings are spine-tingling, you’ll be shown how to plant a seedling. You can dedicate it to a loved one on a special commemorative certificate, and you’ll also receive its GPS coordinates, allowing you to monitor its growth via Google Earth.
The 2-hour Planters Tour, including one tree for planting, costs $140 for adults and $55 for kids 5 to 18, while the 3½-hour Grand Tour, which spends more time in the nurseries and on the Umikoa Trail, costs $210 for adults and $90 for kids 5 to 18. (Children’s rates exclude a tree for planting, but additional trees may be purchased for $90 each.) Private tours and shuttles (from the Kona and Hilo airports, Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, and Hilo cruise terminal) are available for additional fees. Note: If you can’t take a tour, you can pay to have a koa ($90) or an even rarer sandalwood tree ($110) planted for you; see www.legacytrees.org for details.
From Kailua-Kona, it’s easy to book other all-day volcano and “circle” tours, which include the black-sand Punaluu Beach (p. 230), the national park, Hilo, and Waimea. I recommend the environmentally conscious, community-oriented KapohoKine Adventures (www.kapohokine.com; 808/964-1000), which offers a variety of tours from Kona and Hilo ($109–$229 adults, $99–$219 children 12 and under). Its 11-hour Waipio Valley Explorer tour, offered Monday and Wednesday through Saturday ($229 adults, $219 children, including lunch), departs from Waikoloa, with sightseeing at Rainbow Falls, Hilo Farmer’s Market, Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, and Akaka Falls before the descent into Waipio Valley. Its rugged, but exhilarating Lava Expedition ($129 from Hilo, $209 from Waikoloa) brings you close to flowing lava on foot when conditions permit.
Note: Tipping the tour guide/driver $10 to $20 per person, depending on length and cost of the tour, is customary.
Too young geologically to have many great beaches, the Big Island instead has more colorful ones: brand-new black-sand beaches, salt-and-pepper beaches, and even a green-sand beach. If you know where to look, you’ll also find some gorgeous pockets of golden sand off the main roads here and there, plus a few longer stretches, often hidden from view by either acres of lava or high-end resorts. Thankfully, by law all beaches are public, so even the toniest hotel must provide access (including free parking) to its sandy shores. Note: Never leave valuables in your trunk, particularly in remote areas, and please respect the privacy of residents with homes on the beach. For details on shoreline access around the island, see the maps and descriptions at www.hawaiicounty.gov/pl-shoreline-access-big-island. For more information on state beach parks and reserves, visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii.
Note: You’ll find relevant sites on the “Big Island” map on p. 189.
North Kona
Kahaluu Beach
The most popular beach on the Kona Coast has reef-protected lagoons and county park facilities that draw more than 400,000 people a year. Coconut trees line a narrow salt-and-pepper-sand shore that gently slopes to turquoise pools, home to schools of brilliantly colored tropical fish. In summer, it’s an ideal spot for children and beginning snorkelers; the water is so shallow you can just stand up if you feel uncomfortable—but please, not on the living coral, which can take years to recover. In winter, there’s a rip current when the high surf rolls in; look for any lifeguard warnings. Kahaluu isn’t the biggest beach on the island, but it’s one of the best equipped, with off-road parking, beach-gear rentals, a covered pavilion, restrooms, barbecue pits, and a food concession. Come early to stake out a spot. If you have to park on Alii Drive, be sure to poke your head into tiny, blue-roofed St. Peter’s by the Sea, a Catholic chapel next to an old lava rock heiau where surfers once prayed for waves. Note: The park is closed until 10am the first or second Tuesday of each month for maintenance.
Kua Bay
Kekaha Kai State Park
Brilliant white sand offsets even more brilliant turquoise water at this beach park with several sandy bays and coves well hidden from the highway and two official entrances. About 4½ miles north of the airport off Highway 19 (across from West Hawaii Veterans Cemetery) is the turnoff for Maniniowali Beach, better known as Kua Bay. A thankfully paved road crosses acres of craggy lava, leading to the parking lot and a short, paved walkway to an even shorter, sandy scramble down a few rocks to the beach. It has restrooms and showers, but absolutely no shade or drinking water. Locals flock here to sunbathe, swim, bodyboard, and bodysurf, especially on weekends, so go during the week, and in mornings, when it’s cooler; exercise caution since serious injuries have occurred in the strong shorebreak. If you have 4WD, you can take the marked turnoff 2½ miles north of the airport off Highway 19 and drive 1½ bumpy miles over a rough lava road to the parking area for sandy Mahaiula Beach, reached by another short trail. Sloping more steeply than Kua Bay, this sandy beach has stronger currents too, although if you’re fit you can still swim or snorkel in calm conditions. You can also just laze under the shade—you’re likely to see a snoozing green sea turtle or two—or follow the rugged path north through the lava about a mile to the white sandy coves of Makalawena Beach. The park is open 8am to 7pm daily.
Kiholo State Park Reserve
To give yourself a preview of why you want to visit here, pull over at the marked Scenic Overlook on Highway 19 north of Kekaha Kai State Park, between mile markers 82 and 83. You’ll see a shimmering pale blue lagoon, created by the remains of an ancient fish pond, and the bright cerulean Kiholo Bay, jewels in a crown of black lava. Now take the unmarked lava-gravel road (much smoother than Kekaha Kai’s road to Mahaiula Beach) just south of the overlook and drive carefully to the even bumpier day-lot parking area. An unpaved road to the left leads to the campground parking lot; both lots have portable toilets and are a short walk to the shore. The “beach” here is black sand, lava pebbles, and coral, but it’s fine for sunbathing or spotting dolphins and seasonal humpback whales. Keep your sturdy-soled shoes on, though, because you’ll want to keep walking north to Keanalele (also called “Queen’s Bath”), a collapsed lava tube found amid kiawe trees with steps leading into its fresh water pool, great for a cooling dip. Continue on past several mansions to the turquoise waters of the former fishpond, cut off by a lava flow, and the darker bay, clouded by freshwater springs. Green sea turtles love this area—as do scampering wild goats. The park opens at 7am daily year-round, with the access gate off the highway locked promptly at 7pm April to Labor Day (early Sept), and then at 6pm through March 31. See “Camping” (p. 271) for details on reserving campsites, open Friday–Sunday.
Kohanaiki Beach (Pine Trees)
Hidden behind the Kohanaiki golf course development, 2 miles north of the main entrance to Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park off Highway 19, the 1½ miles of shoreline here include anchialine ponds, white-sand beaches, and a reef- and rock-lined bay that’s home to a popular surf break called Pine Trees. Paddlers, snorkelers, and fishermen also flock to the rugged coastline, where a county park offers parking, restrooms, showers, water fountain, campsites, and a covered pavilion for cultural practices; there’s also a well-marked petroglyph. From the Kohanaiki entrance on Highway 19 (at Hulikoa Drive), turn right at the first fork and follow nearly 1 mile to the first parking lot for beach access; facilities and more parking are farther south along the one-lane paved road, but you can also explore the shore to the north. It’s open daily from 5:30am to 9pm (no camping Tues–Wed).
Laaloa Beach (White Sands/Magic Sands Beach)
Don’t blink as you cruise Alii Drive, or you’ll miss Laaloa, often called White Sands, Magic Sands, or Disappearing Beach. That’s because the sand at this small pocket beach, about 4½ miles south of Kailua-Kona’s historic center, does occasionally vanish, especially at high tide or during storms. On calm summer days, you can swim here, next to bodyboarders and bodysurfers taking advantage of the gentle shorebreak; you can also snorkel in a little rocky cove just to the south. In winter, though, a dangerous rip develops and waves swell, attracting expert surfers and spectators; stay out of the water then, but enjoy the gawking. The palm-tree-lined county beach park includes restrooms, showers, a lifeguard station, and a small parking lot off Alii Drive.
Old Kona Airport Park
Yes, this used to be the airport for the Kona side of the island—hence the copious parking on the former runway at the end of Kuakini Highway about a half-mile north of Palani Road in Kailua-Kona. Now it’s a park jointly managed by the county and state, which in 1992 designated its waters a marine life conservation district. It’s easy to get distracted by all the other free amenities: two Olympic-size pools in the Kona Community Aquatic Center ( 808/327-3500), a gym, tennis courts, ball fields. Yet there’s a mile of sandy beach here, fronting tide pools perfect for families with small children, and Pawai Bay, whose reefs draw turtles and rays, and thus snorkelers and divers. The beach area also has covered picnic tables and grills, restrooms, and showers.
South Kona
Hookena Beach Park
A community group known as Friends of Hookena (www.hookena.org) have managed facilities and concessions at this secluded, taupe-colored sandy beach (technically a county park) since 2007. Visitors can rent kayaks and snorkel gear here to explore Kauhako Bay’s populous reefs (avoid during high surf) or camping gear to enjoy the view—sometimes including wild spinner dolphins—from the shore. Reservations for gear and campgrounds can be made online; the welcome concession stand at this remote spot even accepts credit cards. Facilities include showers, restrooms, water fountains, picnic tables, pavilions, and parking. From Kailua-Kona, take Highway 11 south 22 miles to the Hookena Beach Road exit (just past Hookena Elementary School), between mile markers 101 and 102. Follow it downhill 2 miles to the end, and turn left on the one-lane road to the parking area.
The Kohala Coast
Anaehoomalu Bay
The Big Island makes up for its dearth of beaches with a few spectacular ones, like Anaehoomalu, or A-Bay, as many call it. This popular gold-sand beach, fringed by a grove of palms and backed by royal fishponds still full of mullet, is one of the most beautiful in Hawaii. It fronts Marriott’s Waikoloa Beach complex and is enjoyed by guests and locals alike (it’s busier in summer, but doesn’t ever get truly crowded). The beach slopes gently from shallow to deep water; swimming, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and windsurfing are all excellent here. At the northern edge of the bay, snorkelers and divers can watch endangered green sea turtles line up and wait their turn to have small fish clean them. Equipment rental and snorkeling, scuba, and windsurfing instruction are available at the north end of the beach. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and plenty of parking; look for access signs off Waikoloa Beach Road, about 1 mile west of Highway 19. No lifeguards.
Anaehoomalu Bay
Hapuna Beach
Just off Queen Kaahumanu Highway, below the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, lies this crescent of gold sand—a half-mile long and up to 200 feet wide. In summer, when the beach is widest, the ocean calmest, and the crowds biggest, this is a terrific place for swimming, bodysurfing, and snorkeling. But beware of Hapuna in winter or stormy weather, when its thundering waves and strong rip currents should only be plied by local experts. Facilities at Hapuna Beach, part of the Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area, include A-frame cabins (for camping by permit), picnic tables, restrooms, showers, snack bar, water fountains, a lifeguard station, and parking. You can also pick up the coastal Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail (p. 249) here to Spencer or Holoholokai parks to the north and south, respectively.
Kaunaoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach)
Nearly everyone refers to this gold-sand beach at the foot of Mauna Kea Beach Hotel by its hotel nickname, but its real name is Hawaiian for “native dodder,” a lacy, yellow-orange vine that once thrived on the shore. A coconut grove sweeps around this golden arc, where the water is calm and protected by two black-lava points. The sandy bottom slopes gently into the bay, which often fills with tropical fish, sea turtles, and manta rays, especially at night, when lights shine down from a viewing promontory. Swimming is excellent year-round, except in rare winter storms. Snorkelers prefer the rocky points, where fish thrive in the surge. Facilities include restrooms, showers, and public-access parking (go early). No lifeguards.
Spencer Park (Ohaiula Beach)
Virtually in the shadow of the massive Puukohola Heiau (p. 194) to the north, this is a great place to stop when heading to or from the scenic and historic sites in North Kohala. The gently sloping, white-yellow sand beach is Ohaiula, though most just call it “Spencer,” since it’s part of Samuel M. Spencer County Park. Protected by both a long reef and Kawaihae Harbor, the beach has relatively safe swimming year-round. Parking is plentiful, but it may fill up on weekends and holidays. From the intersection of highways 19 and 270, take Highway 270 a half-mile north to a left turn at the sign for the park and Puukohola Heiau, and follow this to either of two parking areas at the end of the road. Facilities include picnic tables, restrooms, showers, grassy lawns, and shade trees; lifeguards are on duty weekends and holidays. Campsites at either end of the beach often serve the area’s homeless population. (It’s safe during daylight hours, but I’d avoid walking through the tents section.) Note: The park is typically closed all day the second Wednesday and Thursday of each month September through May.
Waialea Bay (Beach 69)
Once a hidden oasis, this light-golden sandy beach in Puako, between the Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resorts, earned its nickname from the number on a former telephone pole off Old Puako Road, which signaled one of the public-access points. Still tucked behind private homes, it’s now a proper beach park, with a paved parking lot, a trail to the beach, restrooms, and water fountains—but no lifeguards. The bay is generally calm in summer, good for swimming and snorkeling; waves can get big in winter, when surfers and bodyboarders tend to show up. From Kailua-Kona, take Highway 19 north to a left on Puako Road, and then a right on Old Puako Road; the access road to the parking area is on your left, near telephone pole No. 71 (the nickname has not caught up with the times).
Hilo
Leleiwi Beach Park
This string of palm-fringed, black-lava tide pools fed by freshwater springs and rippled by gentle waves is a photographer’s delight—and the perfect place to take a plunge. In winter, big waves can splash these ponds, but the shallow pools are generally free of currents and ideal for families with children, especially in the protected inlets at the center of the park. Leleiwi often attracts endangered sea turtles, making this one of the island’s most popular snorkeling spots. Open 7am to 7pm, the beach park is 4 miles east of town on Kalaniana‘ole Avenue. Facilities include a lifeguard station (staffed weekends, holidays, and summer), picnic tables, pavilions, and parking. A second section of the park, known as Richardson’s Ocean Park, includes showers, restrooms, daily lifeguards, and the marine life exhibits of Richardson Ocean Center. Tip: If the area is crowded, check out the tide pools and/or small sandy coves in the five other beach parks along Kalanianaole Avenue between Banyan Drive and Leleiwi, especially the protected white-sand lagoon of Carlsmith Beach Park , just a 2-minute drive west. It has lifeguard service in summer and on weekends and holidays, as does the rocky but kid-friendly Onekahaha Beach Park , at the end of Onekahakaha Road off Kalanianaole Avenue, just under a mile west from Carlsmith.
Kolekole Beach Park
Not a place to enter the rough water, this streamside park is nonetheless an unusually picturesque spot for a picnic. The lush greenery around you contrasts with the black rock beach, aquamarine sea, and white sea foam where waves meet Kolekole Stream, several miles below Akaka Falls (p. 200) in Honomu. You may see local kids jumping from a rope swing into the stream, which also has a small waterfall. Facilities include picnic pavilions, grills, restrooms, and parking. It’s open 6am to 11pm. From Hilo, take Highway 19 north 11 miles to a left turn on Old Mamalahoa Highway, and take the first (sharp) right, which descends a quarter-mile down to the park. No lifeguard.
Access to the oceanfront was restricted to area residents during eruptions that began May 2018. Most of the shoreline is craggy, with rough waters and dangerous currents, although the oceanfront thermal pond at Ahalanui (p. 182) and the Waiopae Tidepools (p. 212) are certainly worth seeking out if accessible. Pounding waves have reclaimed much of the newest black-sand beach near Kalapana, born in the 1990 lava flow that buried Kaimu Beach. It’s best viewed from the cliff above it, since rogue waves may suddenly break high on the beach. Note: Although nudism is common at secluded, unmarked Kehena Beach (p. 211), it is illegal.
Kau District
Papakolea (Green Sand) Beach
The island’s famous green-sand beach is located at the base of Puu o Mahana, an old cinder cone spilling into the sea. It’s difficult to reach; the open bay is often rough; there are no facilities, fresh water, or shade; and howling winds scour the point. Nevertheless, each year the unusual olive-brown sands—made of crushed olivine, a semiprecious green mineral found in eruptive rocks and meteorites—attract thousands of oglers. From Highway 11, between mile markers 69 and 70, take South Point Road about 8 miles south to a left fork for the Papakolea parking lot; be aware much of it is one lane. Driving from there to the top of the cinder cone is no longer permitted by the Department of Hawaiian Homelands, although enterprising locals now offer a round-trip shuttle for $10 to $20 (cash only); that’s preferable to the windy, challenging hike along the remaining 2½ miles across unshaded dirt roads and lava rock (wear closed-toe shoes, sunglasses, and a hat, and bring lots of water). In either case, you’ll still need to clamber carefully down the steep eroded cinder cone to the sand. If the surf’s up, check out the beach from the cliff’s edge; if the water’s calm, you can go closer, but keep an eye on the ocean at all times (there are strong rip currents here).
Hawaiian green turtles relaxing at Punaluu Black Sand Beach
Punaluu Beach
Green sea turtles love to bask on this remote, black-sand beach, beautifully framed by palm trees and easily photographed from the bluff above. The deep-blue waters can be choppy; swim only in very calm conditions, as there’s no lifeguard present. You’re welcome to admire the turtles, but at a respectful distance; the law against touching or harassing them is enforced here (if not by authorities, then by locals who also like to congregate in the park). Park facilities include camping, restrooms, showers, picnic tables, pavilions, water fountains, a concession stand, and parking. There are two access roads from Highway 11, at 7¾ and 8 miles northeast of Naalehu. The first, Ninole Loop Road, leads past the rather unkempt Sea Mountain golf course to a turnoff for a paved parking lot by the bluff. The second access from Highway 11, Punaluu Road, has a turnoff for a smaller, unpaved parking area.
Boat, Raft & Submarine Tours
The relatively calm waters of the Kona and Kohala coasts are home to inquisitive reef fish, frolicking spinner dolphins, tranquil green sea turtles, spiraling manta rays, and spouting whales and their calves in season (Dec–Mar). A wide variety of vessels offer sightseeing and snorkel/dive tours (gear provided), while cocktail and dinner cruises take advantage of the region’s predictably eye-popping sunsets. On the wild Puna side of the island, boat rides pass green clefts and coastal waterfalls. Thanks to Capt. Kiko Johnston-Kitazawa’s Waakaulua Sailing Excursions (www.waakaula.com; 808/895-3743), you can also experience the traditional double-hulled sailing canoe, or wa’akaula, used by Hawaiian voyagers; charter a three-hour sailing trip out of Hilo’s Wailoa Harbor for $100 per person for up to six people, with a minimum of $400 per trip. For fishing charters, see p. 241.
Note: Prices below reflect discounts for online bookings, where applicable; book well in advance whenever possible.
Kona Coast
Atlantis Submarines If you have what it takes (namely, no claustrophobia), head 100 feet below the sea in a 65-foot submarine, with a large porthole for each of the 48 passengers. During the 45 minutes underwater, the sub glides slowly through an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre coral reef in Kailua Bay, teeming with fish (including, unfortunately, invasive goatfish and taape) and two shipwrecks encrusted in coral. You’ll take a 5-minute boat shuttle from Kailua Pier, across from the ticket office, to the air-conditioned submarine. Note: Children are allowed, but all passengers must be at least 3 feet tall.
75-5669 Alii Dr. (across the street from Kailua Pier), Kailua-Kona. 800/548-6262. www.atlantisadventures.com/kona. Tours leave at 9am, 10am, 11:30am, 1pm, and 2:30pm (check-in 30 min. before departure time). $109 ages 13 and older, $38 under 13; $119 special includes one adult with one child.
Body Glove Cruises Body Glove’s Kanoa II, a 65-foot, solar-powered catamaran carrying up to 100 passengers, runs an environmentally friendly, 4½-hour Snorkel & Dolphin Adventure morning cruise, along with shorter dinner excursions and seasonal whale-watching trips; all depart from Kailua Pier. In the morning, you’ll be greeted with fresh Kona coffee, fruit, and breakfast pastries before heading north to Pawai Bay, a marine preserve where you can snorkel, scuba dive, swim, or just hang out on the deck. (Spinner dolphin sightings are guaranteed, but for their health and your safety, you do not swim with them.) Before chowing down on the deli lunch buffet, take the plunge off the boat’s 20-foot water slide or 15-foot-high diving board. The only thing you need to bring is a towel; all gear is provided, along with “reef safe” sunscreen. Dinner and lunch cruises feature a historian who points out significant sites on the 12-mile trip from Kailua Pier to Kealakekua Bay, where passengers feast on a buffet spread and enjoy live Hawaiian music. All cruises are free for children 5 and under, and the boat, including restrooms, is wheelchair accessible.
Kailua Pier, Kailua-Kona. www.bodyglovehawaii.com. 800/551-8911 or 808/326-7122. Snorkel cruises (daily 8am) $132 adults, $88 children 6–17; see website for additional scuba charges. Dinner cruise (Thurs–Tues 4pm) $128 adults, $88 children 6–17. Whale-watching cruises (Dec–Apr only; Thurs–Tues 1pm) $98 adults, $78 children 6–17.
Captain Dan McSweeney’s Whale Watch Learning Adventures The islands’ most impressive visitors—45-foot humpback whales—return each winter to warm Hawaiian waters. Capt. Dan McSweeney, who founded the Wild Whale Research Foundation in 1979, has no problem finding them. During the 3-hour whale-watching tours, typically offered December through April, he drops a hydrophone (an underwater microphone) into the water so you can listen to their songs, and sometimes uses an underwater video camera to show you what’s going on. Cruises are aboard the Lady Ann, which has restrooms and a choice of sunny or shaded decks; cold drinks and snacks are provided. Trips depart from Honokohau Harbor, where parking is ample and free.
Honokohau Harbor, 74-380 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.ilovewhales.com. 888/942-5376 or 808/322-0028. Departures 7 and 11am Mon–Tues and Thurs–Fri Dec–Apr; arrive 15 min. early. $120 adults, $110 children 11 and under who also weigh under 90 lb.
Captain Zodiac It’s a wild, 14-mile ride to Kealakekua Bay aboard one of Captain Zodiac’s 16-passenger, 24-foot rigid-hull inflatable rafts, or Zodiacs. There you’ll spend about an hour snorkeling in the bay, perhaps with spinner dolphins, and enjoy snacks and beverages at the site. The small size of the craft mean no restrooms, but it also means you can explore sea caves on this craggy coast. Four-hour snorkel trips take place twice daily, while the 5-hour midday tour ingeniously arrives at Kealakekua when most other boats have left, leaving extra time for a second snorkel site, seasonal whale-watching, or other experiences at the captain’s discretion, plus a deli lunch. Be prepared to get wet regardless (that includes your camera). There’s also a 3-hour swim with wild dolphins—an activity I typically don’t recommend, due to the disruption it causes to the pods of dolphins who need to rest during the day and feed at night. But Captain Zodiac claims to follow federal guidelines in these encounters and briefs passengers on proper protocol for letting the marine mammals approach them, rather than vice versa.
In Gentry’s Kona Marina, Honokohau Harbor, 74-425 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.captainzodiac.com. 808/329-3199. 4-hr. snorkel cruise (Wed–Thurs and Sat–Sun 8am and 12:30pm) $100 adults, $79 children 5–12; 5-hr. snorkel cruise (Mon–Tues and Fri 9:45am), $115 adults, $89 children 5–12. Dolphin swim (Tues, Thurs, Sun 8am), $100 adults, $75 children 8–12. Whale-watching cruises (Jan–Apr only; Tues, Thurs, Sat 8:45am; Tues 3:30pm) $74 adults, $54 children 5–12.
Fair Wind Snorkeling & Diving Adventures I love Fair Wind for several reasons, starting with its home in Keauhou Bay, 8 miles south of Kailua Pier and so that much closer to Kealakekua Bay, where its two very different but impressively equipped boats head for snorkel/dive tours:
Fair Wind II When traveling with kids, I book a cruise on the Fair Wind II, a 60-foot catamaran that includes two 15-foot water slides, a high-dive jump, playpens, and child-friendly flotation devices with viewfinders, so even toddlers can peek at Kealakekua’s glorious sea life. Year-round, the Fair Wind II offers a 4½-hour morning snorkel cruise that includes breakfast and barbecue lunch; most of the year it also sails a 3½-hour afternoon snorkel cruise that provides snacks, which in summer becomes a deluxe 4½-hour excursion with barbecue dinner. Swimmers age 8 and up can also try SNUBA—kind of a beginner’s version of scuba—for an optional $69, with an in-water guide.
Hula Kai When traveling with teens or adults, I prefer the Hula Kai, the Fair Wind’s 55-foot foil-assist catamaran, open only to ages 7 and up. The boat provides a plusher experience (such as comfy seating with headrests) and, on its 5-hour morning snorkel cruise, a faster, smoother ride to two uncrowded Kona Coast snorkeling sites (usually neither is Kealakekua Bay), based on conditions. Guests have the option to try stand-up paddleboarding, SNUBA (see above), or the propulsive “Sea Rocket” ($25 per half-hour) to cover even more ground underwater. The Hula Kai also offers a fascinating night snorkel with manta rays, a 1½-hour tour that doesn’t have to voyage far from Keauhou Bay to find them. At night these gentle giants (no stingers!) are lured closer to the ocean’s surface by the plankton that also rise there. Like other tour companies, Fair Wind uses dive lights to attract even more plankton; on the off chance you don’t get to see a manta ray, you’re welcome back for another evening or an afternoon snorkel tour. Wetsuits, warm soup, and hot drinks are provided to ward off chills; non-snorkelers can join for a $45 “ride-along” fee.
Keauhou Bay Pier, 78-7130 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona. www.fair-wind.com. 800/677-9461 or 808/322-2788. Fair Wind II morning snorkel cruise (daily 9am) $145 adults, $89 children 4–12, $29 children 3 and under. Afternoon snack snorkel cruise (Tues, Thurs, Sat 2pm) $89 adults, $49 children 4–12, free for children 3 and under. Hula Kai deluxe morning snorkel/dive cruise (Mon–Thurs and Sat 9:30am, daily in summer) $159 age 7 and up (younger not permitted). Manta ray snorkel/dive (daily; time varies by sunset) $129 age 7 and up (younger not permitted); snorkeling experience required. Parking is on opposite side of Keauhou Bay, at end of King Kamehameha III Rd.
Kamanu Charters The Kamanu, a sleek, 38-foot sailing catamaran, provides laidback sail-and-snorkel cruises from Honokohau Harbor to the marine preserve of Pawai Bay. The 3½-hour trip includes lunch (deli sandwiches, chips, fresh fruit, and drinks), snorkeling gear, and instruction for first-time snorkelers; weather permitting, it sails twice daily. The boat can hold up to 24 people but often has fewer, making it even more relaxed. The Kamanu also sails at sunset to snorkel with manta rays, and afternoon whale-watching excursions are offered in season. Kamanu Elua, a 31-foot, rigid-hull inflatable with seating, offers similar morning tours, but heads to Kealakekua Bay. Note: This Zodiac-style Kamanu Elua is not advised for children under 7, pregnant women, or those with back or neck injuries.
Honokohau Harbor, 74-7380 Kealakehe Pkwy. (off Hwy. 19), Kailua-Kona. www.kamanu.com. 800/348-3091 or 808/329-2021. Snorkel cruises 9am Thurs–Tues, $95 adults, $50 children 12 and under; 1pm, $85 adults, $55 children. Dolphin swim and snorkel (9am Thurs–Tues) $99 all ages. Sunset manta ray snorkel (daily; times vary) $95. Whale-watching Dec 15–Apr 15 (Thurs–Tues 1pm) $80 adults, $55 children 7 and older.
Kohala Coast
Kohala Sail & Sea It took 2 decades of waiting before Capt. Steve Turner finally realized his dream of sailing from the small-boat harbor in Kawaihae, which finally opened in 2015. But it was a dream worth waiting for. Passengers (no more than six at a time) board his gleaming white, 34-foot Islander sloop, Riva, on the sunny, sparsely developed coast next to Puukohola Heiau, a short drive from the Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resorts. Turner and his knowledgeable crew share a deep respect for the ocean and local culture, easy to impart on these intimate cruises. In humpback-whale-watching season (Dec–Apr), they make three 2¼-hour trips daily ($106), including the year-round sunset cruise departing at 4pm. The 3½-hour morning snorkel tours ($139) take advantage of the Kohala Coast’s brilliantly clear waters with dazzling sea life, especially in the reef off Puako, and include all gear, snacks, and drinks; they’re also available by charter.
Kawaihae South Harbor, Slip No. 8, 61-3527 Kawaihae Rd., Kawaihae. www.kohalasailandsea.com. 808/895-1781. Whale-watching (daily 8:30am, 1pm, 4pm Dec–Apr) and sunset cruises (daily 4:15pm May–Nov) $106. Morning snorkel trips (on demand, daily 8am) $155 per person; 5-person minimum. Private charters also available.
Hilo, the Hamakua Coast & Puna District
Note: During whale-watching season, Hilo visitors may spot whales on one of the culturally focused Waakaulua Sailing Excursions (p. 230) out of Wailoa Harbor or during the 2-hour Hilo Bay and River Falls Adventure afternoon cruises ($69) offered up to twice daily by Hilo Ocean Adventures (www.hilooceanadventures.com; 808/934-8344). The latter also operates a 4.5-hour morning snorkel/dive cruise at 8:30am daily ($135 per diver, $79 per snorkeler) and high-adrenaline, high-speed banana boat rides in Hilo Bay at 11am and 1pm daily ($39).
Lava Ocean Tours The unpredictability of Pele means there may or may not be lava-viewing tours. When molten rock collides with the ocean, Capt. Shane Turpin’s Volcano Boat Tours depart several times a day from Hilo or Pohoiki Harbor near Pahoa to a daringly close (some would say too close) vantage point. The 49-passenger, 42-foot-long LavaOne catamaran provides the smoothest ride, relatively speaking; his smaller LavaKai and LavaKat craft offer bouncier voyages that thrill-seekers may appreciate. When lava isn’t spouting (check before you book), Turpin may offer 3-hour Hilo waterfall cruises ($145 adults, $100 ages 4 to 12) and whale-watching cruises Dec–May ($99 adults, $50 ages 4 to 12) from Hilo’s Wailoa Harbor.
Pohoiki Harbor, Isaac Hale Beach Park, Pahoa. www.seelava.com. 808/966-4200. Volcano boat tours $180–$190 adults, $145 children 4–12.
If you’re not a swimmer, no need to forgo seeing the multihued marine life for which the Kona and Kohala coasts are justly famous. Of the Big Island’s several glass-bottom boat cruises, Kailua Bay Charters’ tour on the 36-foot Marian, which has comfy benches and shade, is well suited to families. The trip is just an hour long, with a naturalist on board to explain what you’re seeing. Tours leave Kailua Pier at 11:30am Thursday through Tuesday and at 12:30pm on Wednesday (www.konaglassbottomboat.com; 
808/324-1749; $50 adults, $25 children under 12; reservations required). See the underwater sights of Anaehoomalu Bay on Ocean Sports’ 26-foot glass-bottom boat; it too has benches, shade, and a naturalist. Half-hour tours depart from the beach six times daily from 9:15am to 1:15pm (www.hawaiioceansports.com; 888/724-5924, ext. 103, or 808/886-6666, ext. 103; $27 adults, $14 children 6–12, and free for children under 6).
Bodyboarding (Boogie Boarding) & Bodysurfing
As with other watersports, it’s important to stay out of rough surf in winter or during storms that bring big surf. In normal conditions, the best beaches for bodyboarding and bodysurfing on the Kona side of the island are Hapuna Beach at the Mauna Kea Resort, Laaloa Beach (White Sand/Magic Sands Beach) in Kailua-Kona, and Kua Bay (Maniniowali Beach) in Kekaha Kai State Park, north of the airport. Experienced bodysurfers may want to check out South Kona’s Hookena Beach Park; on the Hilo side, try Leleiwi Beach Park. See “Beaches” (p. 221) for details.
Hotel beach concessions and most surf shops (see “Surfing” on p. 242) rent bodyboards, but you can also find inexpensive rentals at Snorkel Bob’s in the parking lot of Huggo’s restaurant, 75-5831 Kahakai St. at Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona (www.snorkelbob.com; 808/329-0770), and on the Kohala Coast in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., facing the road on the Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-9499). Both stores are open 8am to 5pm daily.
Imagine sitting at sea level, eye to eye with a turtle, a dolphin, even a whale—it’s possible in an ocean kayak. After a few minutes of instruction and a little practice in a calm area (like Kamakahonu Cove in front of the Courtyard King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel), you’ll be ready to explore. Beginners can practice their skills in Kailua Bay, intermediate kayakers might try paddling from Honokohau Harbor to Kekaha Kai State Park, and the more advanced can tackle the 5 miles from Keauhou Bay to Kealakekua Bay or the scenic but challenging Hamakua Coast.
You’ll find rentals at nearly every beachfront Kona and Kohala resort, as well as the Grand Naniloa Doubletree by Hilton on Hilo Bay; hourly rates typically start at $20-$25. At Hookena Beach Park (p. 225), kayak rentals include a clear “peekaboo” version that allows you to view sea life and run $40 to $50 a day.
Kealakekua Bay Guided Tours & Rentals Although technically you can rent kayaks for exploring Kealakekua Bay on your own, it’s best to go with a guided tour. Only three kayak companies are allowed to offer guided tours in Kealakekua Bay that land at the Cook monument (Kaawaloa), all launching from Napoopoo Wharf. These tours include equipment, snorkeling gear, snacks or lunch, and drinks, and they should be booked in advance, due to the 12-guest limit per tour. Note that Napoopoo is a residential area, where parking can be difficult if you’re not on a tour.
Kona Boys (www.konaboys.com; 808/328-1234) was the first outfit to offer kayak rentals in Kona and is still widely regarded as the best. Its 5-hour Kealakekua Bay kayak snorkel tours, held daily by reservation, meet at the shop at 79-7539 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Kealakekua, at 7:15am; tours cost $189 for adults, $169 for ages 18 and under. The 4-hour “midday meander” tours ($139 adults, $119 children) depart at 12:15. You can also rent gear from Kona Boys’ beach shack at Kamakahonu Bay ( 808/329-2345), the only one of its two sites to offer kayaks by the hour, not just by the day or week. Rentals include kayak, paddles, backrests, cooler, life jackets, dry bag, and a soft rack to carry kayaks on top of your car (including convertibles). Hourly rates are $19 single kayak, $29 double, with daily rates $54 and $74, respectively (weekly $174/$249).
Owned by a Native Hawaiian family, Aloha Kayak (www.alohakayak.com; 877/322-1444 or 808/322-2868) offers two tours of different lengths to Kealakekua Bay and Kaawaloa Flat, where the memorial to Captain Cook stands. The 3½-hour tour (add an hour for check-in/check-out) departs at 8am and noon Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday; it’s $99 for adults and $55 for children 11 and under. The 5-hour tour, which allows more time for snorkeling and exploring Kaawaloa (where a deli lunch is served), departs at 7:15am Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday; it’s $129 for adults and $70 for children (check website for $20-off coupon). Aloha Kayak also offers morning tours of Keauhou Bay sea caves ($99 adults, $55 children) 4 days a week and nightly manta ray tours with snorkeling ($99 adults, $55 children ages 5 to 11). Half-day rental-only rates are $25 for a single and $45 for a double; full-day rates are $35 for a single and $60 for a double, with triple kayaks and discounts for longer periods. Aloha Kayak’s original shop is in Honalo, about 8½ miles south of Kailua-Kona, at 79-7248 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), just south of its intersection with Highway 180. A second site, with shave ice stand and other beach gear rentals, is on Napoopoo Road just below the Kona Pacific Farmers Cooperative mill.
The environmentally conscious Adventures in Paradise (www.bigislandkayak.com; 888/210-5365 or 808/447-0080) has a small office at 82-6020 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11) in Captain Cook, but generally meets clients at Napoopoo for its 3½-hour Kealakekua tours ($100 for ages 6 and up), departing at 7 and 11:30am daily. (Tip: Book the early tour for the least crowded snorkeling.)
Parasailing
Get a bird’s-eye view of the Big Island’s pristine waters with UFO Parasail (www.ufoparasail.net; 800/FLY-4-UFO or 808/325-5836), which offers parasail rides daily between 8am and 5:30pm from Kailua Pier. The cost is $85 for the standard flight of 8 minutes of air time at 800 feet, and $95 for a deluxe 10-minute ride at 1,200 feet. You can go up alone or with a friend (or two) ages 3 and older; single riders must weigh at least 160 pounds, and groups no more than 450 pounds. The boat may carry up to eight passengers (observers pay just $39), and the total time in the boat, around an hour, varies on the rides they’ve booked. Tip: Save $4 to $10 per rider by booking online.
Scuba Diving
The Big Island’s leeward coast offers some of the best diving and snorkeling in the world; the water is calm, warm, and clear. Want to swim with fast-moving game fish? Try Ulua Cave, at the north end of the Kohala Coast, from 25 to 90 feet deep; dolphins, rays, and the occasional Hawaiian monk seal swim by. And don’t forget to book a night dive to see the majestic manta rays, regularly seen in greater numbers here than anywhere else in Hawaii (or most of the world, for that matter). More than 2 dozen dive operators on island offer everything from scuba-certification courses to guided dives to snorkeling cruises.
Founded in 1984, Kohala Divers (www.kohaladivers.com; 808/882-7774) offers morning and evening one-tank ($109–$139) and two-tank dives ($149–$159) to spectacular sites off North and South Kohala, including a 30-foot-high lava dome covered in plate and knob coral that attracts huge schools of fish, and several spots off Puako frequented by green sea turtles. This is a great outfit for beginners as well as experienced divers, with friendly, well-versed guides. Snorkelers (gear included) and ride-alongs pay $90 to join these and other charters aboard the pristine 42-foot dive boat, which books just 15 of its 24-passenger capacity. You can also rent scuba and snorkel gear at its well-stocked shop in Kawaihae Harbor Shopping Center, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Hwy. (Hwy. 270), about a mile north of its intersection with Highway 19. It’s open daily 8am to 6pm.
Farther south, Kona Diving Company , 74-5467 Luhia St. (at Eho St.), Kailua-Kona (www.konadivingcompany.com; 808/331-1858), prides itself on heading to uncommon dive sites in a 34-foot catamaran complete with showers, TV, and restrooms. It also offers introductory two-dive packages ($230), two-tank morning dives ($135), and one- and two-tank manta ray night dives from Honokohau Harbor ($125–$150). Snorkelers and ride-alongs pay $80 to $115, gear included, depending on the trip; scuba gear costs $35 a day ($60 for shore dive gear).
One of Kona’s oldest and most eco-friendly dive shops, Jack’s Diving Locker , in the Coconut Marketplace, 75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.jacksdivinglocker.com; 800/345-4807 or 808/329-7585), boasts an 8,000-square-foot dive center with solar-heated swimming pool classrooms, full-service rentals, and sports-diving and technical-diving facilities. It offers the classic two-tank dive for $135 ($65 snorkelers) daily and a two-tank manta ray night dive for $155 ($125 snorkelers) five nights a week; Jack’s four roomy boats take 10 to 18 divers (split into groups of 6). Pelagic Magic, a one-tank descent that reveals iridescent jellies and evanescent zooplankton ($175), is offered Tuesday and Thursday nights.
On the island’s east side, Hilo’s Puhi Bay and the waters of Leleiwi Point teem with turtles, octopus, goatfish and other sights for divers. Bill De Rooy of Nautilus Dive Center , 382 Kamehameha Ave. at Nawahi Lane (next to the Shell gas station) in Hilo (www.nautilusdivehilo.com; 808/935-6939), has been leading guided beach dive tours ($75–$150) and classes for more than 30 years. Hilo Ocean Adventures , 1717 Kamehameha Ave. at Banyan Drive (www.hilooceanadventures.com; 808/934-8344), offers daily beach dives in the morning ($80) and night ($109) and morning two-tank boat dives ($135 divers, $80 snorkelers).
Snorkeling
If you come to Hawaii and don’t snorkel, you’ll miss half the sights. The clear waters along the dry Kona and Kohala coasts, in particular, are home to spectacular marine life, including spinner dolphins by day and giant manta rays by night. You’ll want to take an evening boat tour (p. 230) or kayak tour (p. 236) to see the latter; please heed instructions to just watch the mantas and not touch them, which harms their skin. For dolphins and reef denizens, go in the mornings, before afternoon clouds and winds lessen visibility. Please be very careful not to stand on, kick, or touch the live coral, which takes years to grow.
Gear Rentals If you’re staying at a Kona or Kohala resort, the hotel concession should have basic gear for hourly rental. If you’re thinking of exploring more than the beach outside your room, an inexpensive place to get basic rental equipment ($9 per week) is Snorkel Bob’s, in the parking lot of Huggo’s restaurant, 75-5831 Kahakai St. at Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona (www.snorkelbob.com; 808/329-0770), and on the Kohala Coast in the Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., facing the road on the Mauna Lani Resort ( 808/885-9499). Higher-quality gear costs $38 a week for adults, $24 for children; prescription masks are also available. Both stores are open 8am to 5pm daily.
You can also rent high-quality gear from Jack’s Diving Locker, Coconut Grove Shopping Center (next to Outback Steak House), 75-5813 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.jacksdivinglocker.com; 800/345-4807 or 808/329-7585); it’s open 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday, until 6pm Sunday. Snorkel sets cost $9 a day. On the Kohala Coast, visit Kohala Divers (www.kohaladivers.com; 808/882-7774) in the Kawaihae Shopping Center, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Highway (Hwy. 270), in Kawaihae, a mile north of the intersection with Highway 19. It’s open 8am to 6pm daily, with snorkel sets starting at $10 a day.
In Hilo, Nautilus Dive Center, 382 Kamehameha Ave. at Nawahi Lane (www.nautilusdivehilo.com; 808/935-6939), rents snorkel packages for $6 a day; it’s open 9am to 5pm Monday through Saturday. Beach snorkel tours ($59) are offered twice daily by Hilo Ocean Adventures, 1717 Kamehameha Ave. at Banyan Drive (www.hilooceanadventures.com; 808/934-8344); quality snorkel sets are $10 a day, $40 per week.
Top Snorkel Sites If you’ve never snorkeled before, Kahaluu Beach (p. 221) is the best place to start, as long as the crowds don’t throw you off. Just wade in on one of the small, sandy paths through the lava-rock tide pools and you’ll see colorful fish. Even better, swim out to the center of the shallow, well-protected bay to see schools of surgeonfish, Moorish idols, butterflyfish, and even green sea turtles. The friendly and knowledgeable volunteers of the Kahaluu Bay Education Center (KBEC; www.kahaluubay.org; 808/640-1166) are on-site daily from 9:30am to 4pm to explain reef etiquette—essentially: “Look, but don’t touch”—and answer questions about its marine life. The KBEC also rents snorkel gear ($14) from Jack’s Diving Locker and boogie boards with viewing windows ($10) if you don’t want to put your face underwater; proceeds benefit conservation at this popular spot visited annually by some 400,000 snorkelers, swimmers, and surfers.
Spinner dolphins
Kealakekua Bay may offer the island’s best overall snorkeling (coral heads, lava tubes, calm waters, underwater caves, and more), but because it’s a marine life conservation district and state historical park (p. 190), access is restricted to preserve its treasures. The best way to snorkel here is via permitted boat tours (p. 230), generally departing from Kailua Pier or Keauhou Bay, or kayak tours (p. 236) with permits to launch from Napoopoo Wharf and land near the Captain Cook Monument. You can paddle a rental kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddleboard from Napoopoo on your own if the company has acquired a special permit; otherwise, it’s about a 10-mile round-trip paddle from Keauhou. Carrying your snorkel gear down and up the steep 5-mile trail from the highway is possible but not recommended. Watch out for spiny urchins as well as fragile coral when entering the water from lava rocks along the shore.
Much more easily accessible snorkeling, with a terrific display of aquatic diversity, can be found at Honaunau Bay, nicknamed “Two Step” for the easy entry off flat lava rocks into the crystalline waters just before Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (p. 193). Snorkeling is not permitted in the park (and using bathrooms for changing in and out of swimsuits is discouraged), but you can pay the entrance fee to use the parking lot and walk to the bay if the 25 or so spaces on the waterfront road (look for the coastal access sign off Highway 160) are taken.
Beyond the beaches of the Kohala resorts, the well-protected waters of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park (p. 226) are a great site for families to snorkel, with convenient facilities (restrooms, showers, picnic tables), not to mention a lifeguard on weekends and holidays, and a reputation for attracting green sea turtles (let them come to you, but don’t touch or approach them). It can get windy, so mornings are your best bet here. Puako’s Waialea Bay (p. 227), home to coral colonies, reef fish and turtles, provides good snorkeling in calm waters, typically in summer.
Sport Fishing: The Hunt for Granders
Big-game fish, including gigantic blue marlin and other Pacific billfish, tuna, sailfish, swordfish, ono (wahoo), and giant trevallies (ulua), roam the waters of the Kona Coast, known as the marlin capital of the world. When anglers catch marlin weighing 1,000 pounds or more, they call them “granders”; there’s even a “wall of fame” in Kailua-Kona’s Waterfront Row shopping mall honoring those who’ve nailed more than 20 tons of fighting fish. Nearby photos show celebrities such as Sylvester Stallone posing with their slightly less impressive catches. The celebrities of the fishing world descend on Kailua-Kona in August for the 5-day Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament (www.hibtfishing.com), founded in 1959. Note that it’s not all carnage out there: Teams that tag and release marlin under 300 pounds get bonus points.
Nearly 100 charter boats with professional captains and crew offer fishing charters out of Keauhou, Kawaihae, Honokohau, and Kailua Bay harbors. If you’re not an expert angler, the best way to arrange a charter is through a booking agency such as the Charter Desk at Honokohau Marina (www.charterdesk.com; 888/566-2487 or 808/326-1800), which can sort through the more than 60 different types of vessels and fishing specialties to match you with the right boat. Prices range from $750 to $3,500 or so for a full-day exclusive charter (you and up to five friends have an entire boat to yourselves) or $450 to $600 for a half-day. One or two people may be able to book a “share” on boats that hold four to eight anglers, who take turns fishing—generally for smaller catch—to increase everyone’s chances of hooking something. Shares start at $95 to $150 per person for half-day trips, $250 for a full day.
Note: Most big-game charter boats carry six passengers max, and the boats supply all equipment, bait, tackle, and lures. No license is required. Many captains now tag and release marlins; other fish caught belong to the boat, not to you—that’s island style. If you want to eat your catch or have your trophy mounted, arrange it with the captain before you go.
Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP)
Anywhere the water is calm is a fine place to learn stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), which takes much less finesse than traditional surfing but offers a fun alternative to kayaking for exploring the coast. Numerous hotel concessions offer rentals and lessons, as do traditional surf shops.
Kona Boys (www.konaboys.com; 808/328-1234) has the best locale in Kailua-Kona to try your hand at SUP: Kamakahonu Cove, next to Kailua Pier and King Kamehameha’s royal (and sacred) compound. The spring water in the well-protected cove is a little too cool and murky for snorkeling, but just right for getting your bearings. The 90-minute lessons costs $99 in a group setting, $149 private; once you’ve got the hang of it, you can also reserve one of Kona Boys’ 90-minute tours ($99 group/$149 private) or just pick up a rental ($29 hourly, $74 daily). It also offers lessons and rentals at its Kealakekua location, 79-7539 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), 1¼ miles south of its intersection with Highway 180. Both sites are open daily until 5pm; the Kamakahonu beach shack opens at 8am, Kealakekua at 7:30am.
Another good option in North Kona is at Keauhou Bay where Ocean Safaris (www.oceansafariskayaks.com; 808/326-4699) offers 2-hour lessons and tours, each $79; rentals are $25 for 2 hours, but paddlers must stay within Keauhou Bay.
On the Kohala Coast, the smooth crescents of Anaehoomalu Bay and Puako Bay are also well suited to exploring via SUP. Ocean Sports (www.hawaiioceansports.com) rents boards for $30 a half-hour ($50 hourly) from its kiosk on the sand in front of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott; see website for details on its other Kohala locations. Hulakai rents all kinds of beach gear from its outlet in the Shops at Mauna Lani (http://hulakai.com; 808/896-3141). Open 10am–4pm daily, it offers 1-hour SUP lessons ($68) and 90-minute “adventures” ($98), plus rentals for $69 a day, $249 a week.
In Hilo, KapohoKine Adventures rents boards for $25 an hour from its base inside the Grand Naniloa Doubletree by Hilton (p. 268), providing an easy launch into Hilo Bay ( 808/964-1000).
Surfing
Most surfing off the Big Island is for the experienced only, thanks to rocks, coral reef, and rip currents at many of the reliable breaks. As a general rule, the beaches on the North and West Shores of the island get northern swells in winter, while those on the South and East shores get southern swells in summer. You’ll also need to radiate courtesy and expertise in the lineup with local surfers, understandably territorial about their challenging breaks.
In Kailua-Kona, experienced surfers should check out the two breaks in Holualoa Bay off Alii Drive between downtown Kailua-Kona and Keauhou: Banyans near the northern point and Lyman’s near the southern point, once home to a surfers’ temple. If you don’t have the chops, don’t go in the water; just enjoy the show. Another surfing shrine, its black-lava rock walls still visible today, stands near Kahaluu Beach (p. 221), where the waves are manageable most of the year and there’s also a lifeguard. Less-experienced surfers can also try Pine Trees, north of town at Kohanaiki Beach (p. 224), where it’s best to avoid the busy weekends.
Surf breaks on the east side of the island are also generally best left to skilled or local surfers. They include Honolii Point, north of Hilo; Richardson’s Point at Leleiwi Beach Park (p. 227); Hilo Bay Front Park; and Pohoiki Bay, home to Isaac Hale Beach Park near Pahoa.
Private & Group Lessons You can have a grand time taking a surf lesson, especially with instructors who know where the breaks are best for beginners and who genuinely enjoy being out in the waves with you. The Native Hawaiian–owned Hawaii Lifeguard Surf Instructors (HLSI; www.surflessonshawaii.com; 808/324-0442), which gives lessons at Kahaluu Beach, has an especially good touch with kids and teens. For $125, adults and children as young as 3 can take a 90-minute private lesson (little ones under 55 pounds ride on the same board as their lifeguard/teacher). Lessons for ages 11 and up cost $75 per person for small groups (no more than four students per instructor), or $190 for a class with just two people (who split the cost). On days when the waves are tame, HLSI offers the same lessons with stand-up paddleboards. Classes are offered three times a day, Monday through Saturday.
Board Rentals You’re never going to rent a board as good as your own, but you’ll enjoy the local vibe at the appropriately named Pacific Vibrations, 75-5702 Likana Lane, tucked off Alii Drive just north of Mokuaikaua Church ( 808/329-4140) and founded in 1978 by the McMichaels, a Native Hawaiian family with deep ties to surfing and the Ironman triathlon. It’s a trip just to visit the densely stocked surf shop in downtown Kailua-Kona. Surfboards rent for $10 to $20 a day, and bodyboards for just $5. Stand-up paddleboards go for $15 an hour. The staff is happy to help steer you to waves to match your skills.
In the Shops at Mauna Lani, surfboard shaper Hulakai (www.hulakai.com; ( 808/896-3141) rents soft-top surfboards for $20 a day ($70 a week) and offers 90-minute private or semiprivate surfing lessons ($150 or $125, respectively).
Biking
Note: In addition to the rental fees mentioned below, expect to put down a deposit on a credit card or leave your credit card number on file.
Kona & Kohala Coasts
When you’re planning to spend a fair amount of time in Kailua-Kona, where parking can be at a premium, consider renting a bicycle for easy riding and sightseeing along flat, often oceanview Alii Drive. A cruiser can also be handy if you’re staying at a Kohala Coast resort and want an easy way to shuttle around shops, beaches, and condos without having to jump in the car. Experienced cyclists may also want to trace part of the Ironman course (112 miles round-trip) along the wide-shouldered “Queen K” and Akoni Pule highways from Kailua-Kona to Hawi, or join in one of several weekly group rides of the Hawaii Cycling Club (www.hawaiicyclingclub.com).
Former U.S. pro cyclist Alex Candelario’s Big Island Bike Tours 
(http://bigislandbiketours.com; 800/331-0159) boasts experienced guides, elite-level mountain and road bikes, and, in several cases, exclusive access to scenery well worth the pedal. Based in a quaint, remodeled shed at Waimea’s picturesque Anna Ranch, 65-1480 Kawaihae Rd. (Hwy. 11), the company offers a variety of day trips and longer tours for varying abilities. Ride a mountain bike (with electronically assisted bikes for the less hardy) to waterfalls above Anna Ranch, by the rolling pastures along Waimea’s unpaved Mana Road, or across rugged terrain to Papakolea (Green Sand Beach); experts can take a shuttle ($35) to ride 46 miles around Mauna Kea on Mana Road. Road cyclists can cruise downhill to Honokaa and head either to the Waipio Valley Overlook or the Hawaiian Vanilla Company, do a 16-mile loop through Holualoa with a lunch break at Holuakoa Cafe, or explore back roads of Kau. Most tours last 2 to 3 hours and cost $189; multiday tours can also be arranged.
For simple cruisers, head to Kona Beach & Sports, in Kona Inn Shopping Village, 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (www.konabeachandsports.com; 808/329-2294), which rents 24-speed hybrid bikes for $30 a day, $112 a week. Pros and amateurs alike flock to its sister store, Bike Works, in Hale Hana Centre, 74-5583 Luhia St., Kailua-Kona (www.bikeworkskona.com; 808/326-2453) for an even bigger selection of bikes, including mountain bikes, road bikes, and triathlon bikes ($55-$65 daily), with big discounts for longer bookings. Bike Works also has a shop in Queens’ MarketPlace, Waikoloa Beach Resort (www.bikeworkshawaii.com; 808/886-5000), with road and city bike rentals ($30–$85 daily). Both stores offer weekly group rides.
Note: Reserve rentals well in advance for the first 2 weeks of October, during the lead-up to the Ironman World Championship.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
The national park has miles of paved roads and trails open to cyclists, from easy, flat rides to challenging ascents, but you’ll need to watch out for cars and buses on the often winding, narrow roads, and make sure you carry plenty of water and sunscreen. Download a cycling guide on the park’s website (www.nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/bike.htm) or pick one up at the Kilauea Visitor Center. The closest bike-rental shops are in Hilo, including Mid-Pacific Wheels, 1133 Manono St. (www.midpacificwheelsllc.com; 808/935-6211), which rents mountain and road bikes for $35 a day, including a helmet; bike racks are $10 a day. Or leave the planning to Volcano Bike Tours (www.bikevolcano.com; 888/934-9199 or 808/934-9199), which offers fully supported half- and full-day guided tours ($115–$150) in the national park that include some off-road riding and, on the longer tour, a van trip to the end of Chain of Craters Road. That’s where a 1.25-mile stretch of pavement closed to cars connects with the 8-mile emergency access gravel road to Kalapana; it’s suitable for hikers or mountain bikers, but was overrun midway by the July 2016 lava flow. The first few miles feature interpretive signs and great coastal views, but if the flow is still active, flumes may discourage exploration.
Golf
Greens fees below are for visitors and include carts, unless noted; those with Hawaii state ID may receive substantial discounts.
The Kona Coast
The fabulous Hualalai Golf Course at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai (p. 260) is open only to members and resort guests—but for committed golfers, this Jack Nicklaus–designed championship course is reason enough to book a room and pay the sky-high greens fee of $295 ($175 for kids 13–18, free for children 12 and under with paying guest).
Big Island Country Club Designed by Perry Dye, this par-72, 18-hole course offers sweeping views of towering Mauna Kea and the bright blue coastline from its perch 2,000 feet above sea level. Although it’s not on the ocean, water features wind around nine of the holes, including the spectacular par-3 No. 17. Waterfalls, tall palms, and other lush greenery add to the tropical feel; look for native birds such as the nene (Hawaiian goose), hawks, stilts, and black-crowned night herons. The wide fairways and gently rolling terrain make it appropriate for players of every level. Facilities include club rentals, driving range, pro shop, lounge, and snack bar.
71-1420 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 190), Kailua-Kona. www.bigislandcountryclub.com. 808/325-5044. Greens fees $135; 7-day vacation membership, $240 plus $30 cart fee per round.
Kona Country Club Although the 18-hole Mountain Course has permanently closed, the popular Keauhou club reopened its William Bell–designed Ocean Course in 2015 with expanded greens, new cart paths and bunkers, and a new irrigation system. The views of pounding waves on lava rock—also visible from the well-stocked pro shop—remain impressive. Other facilities include club rentals, driving range, pro shop, locker rooms, and putting and chipping greens.
78-7000 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.konagolf.com. 808/322-3431. Greens fees $180, $110 after 1 p.m., $45 juniors (8–17); 9 holes after 3pm, $90.
Makalei Golf Club This par-72, 18-hole upcountry course—some 1,800 to 2,850 feet in elevation—goes up and down through native forests, cinder cones, and lava tubes over its championship length of 7,091 yards. The signature hole is the par-3 No. 15, offering a distant view of Maui and the best chance for a hole-in-one. A local favorite, Makalei is visited by wild peacocks, pheasants, and turkeys. Facilities include a golf shop, driving range, putting greens, club rentals (drop-off and pickup available), and the Peacock Grille restaurant, offering a full bar and a menu of burgers, salads, and snacks from 10am to 3pm.
72-3890 Hawaii Belt Rd. (Mamalahoa Hwy./Hwy. 190), Kailua-Kona. www.makalei.com. 808/325-6625. Greens fees $109 before noon; $89 noon–2pm. From the intersection of Palani Rd. and Hwy. 11 in Kailua-Kona, take Palani Rd. (which becomes Hwy. 190) east 7¼ miles, and look for green gates and a small white sign on right.
The Kohala Coast
Hapuna Golf Course Since its opening in 1992, this 18-hole championship course has been named the most environmentally sensitive course by Golf magazine, as well as “Course of the Future” by the U.S. Golf Association. Designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay, the links-style course extends nearly 6,900 yards from the shoreline to 700 feet above sea level, with views of the pastoral Kohala Mountains and the coastline; look for Maui across the channel from the signature 12th hole. The elevation changes on the course keep it challenging (and windy the higher you go). There are a few elevated tee boxes and only 40 bunkers. Facilities include putting and chipping greens, driving range, practice bunker, lockers, showers, a pro shop, rental clubs, fitness center, and spa.
At the Westin Hapuna Beach Hotel, Mauna Kea Resort, off Hwy. 19 (near mile marker 69). www.westinhapunabeach.com. 808/880-3000. Greens fees for hotel guests: $140–$150 before 1pm; $90–$100 after 1pm. Nonguests: $160–$175 before 1pm; $100–$125 after 1pm. All juniors (18 and younger) $55–$60.
Mauna Kea’s famous 3rd hole
Mauna Kea Golf Course This breathtakingly beautiful, par-72, 7,114-yard championship course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., and later updated by son Rees Jones, is consistently rated one of the top golf courses in the United States. The signature 3rd hole is 175 yards long; the Pacific Ocean and shoreline cliffs stand between the tee and the green, giving every golfer, from beginner to pro, a real challenge. Another par-3 that confounds duffers is the 11th hole, which drops 100 feet from tee to green and plays down to the ocean, into the steady trade winds. When the trades are blowing, 181 yards might as well be 1,000 yards. Book ahead; the course is very popular, especially for early weekend tee times. Facilities include a pro shop and clubhouse with restaurant, named Number 3 for the hole that Jones, Sr., once called “the most beautiful in the world.”
At the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Kea Resort, off Hwy. 19 (near mile marker 68). https://maunakeabeachhotel.com. 808/882-5400. Greens fees $285 ($245 hotel guests) 7am–1pm; $195 after 1pm ($180 hotel guests). Afternoon 9 holes $135. All kids under age 18 play for $95.
Mauna Lani Francis H. Ii Brown Championship Courses Carefully wrapped around ancient trails, fish ponds, and petroglyphs, the two 18-hole courses here have won Golf magazine’s Gold Medal Award every year since the honor’s inception in 1988. The South Course, a 7,029-yard, par-72, has two unforgettable ocean holes: the over-the-water 15th hole and the downhill, 221-yard, par-3 No. 7, which is bordered by the sea, a salt-and-pepper sand dune, and lush kiawe trees. The sunset golf cart tour ($45 for two people in one cart) visits both, among other beautiful stops. The North Course may not have the drama of the oceanfront holes, but because it was built on older lava flows, the more extensive indigenous vegetation gives the course a Scottish feel. The hole that’s cursed the most is the 140-yard, par-3 17th: It’s beautiful but plays right into the surrounding lava field. Facilities include two driving ranges, a golf shop (with teaching pros), a restaurant, and putting greens. Mauna Lani also has the island’s only keiki (children’s) course, the 9-hole WikiWiki walking course for juniors, beginners, and families (golfers under 14 must be with an adult).
At the Mauna Lani Resort, Mauna Lani Dr., off Hwy. 19 (20 miles north of Kona Airport). www.maunalani.com. 808/885-6655. Greens fees $235 ($175 for Mauna Lani or Fairmont Orchid guests) before 1pm; $155 ($130 hotel guests) after 1pm. WikiWiki course: $25 children, including clubs; $35 adults ($15 for three clubs).
Waikoloa Beach Resort Courses Two 18-hole courses beckon here. The pristine 18-hole, par-70 Beach Course certainly reflects the motto of designer Robert Trent Jones, Jr.: “Hard par, easy bogey.” Most golfers remember the par-5, 505-yard 12th hole, a sharp dogleg left with bunkers in the corner and an elevated tee surrounded by lava. The Kings’ Course, designed by Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish, is about 500 yards longer. Its links-style tract has a double green at the 3rd and 6th holes, and carefully placed bunkers see a lot of play, courtesy of the ever-present trade winds. Facilities include a golf shop, 15-acre practice range (with free clubs and unlimited balls for just $15), and chef Allen Hess’ excellent Mai Grille restaurant, serving gourmet comfort food (see p. 279); call for a free shuttle within the resort. Tip: Check online for multi-round discounts and afternoon family packages.
At the Waikoloa Beach Resort, 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa. www.waikoloabeachgolf.com. 808/886-7888. Greens fees $125–$185 ($113–$148 for resort guests) before 12:30pm; $75–$98 after 12:30 pm; 9 holes after 8am, $69; $60 juniors 6–17. Second round same day, $55.
Waikoloa Village Golf Course This semiprivate 18-hole course, with a par-72 for each of the three sets of tees, is hidden in the town of Waikoloa, next to the Paniolo Greens timeshare resort. Overshadowed by the glamorous resort courses of the Kohala Coast, it’s nevertheless a beautiful course with terrific views and some great golfing. The wind can play havoc with your game here (like most Hawaii golf courses). Robert Trent Jones, Jr., in designing this challenging course, inserted his trademark sand traps, slick greens, and great fairways. The par-5, 490-yard 18th hole is a thriller: It doglegs to the left, and the last 75 yards up to the green are water, water, water. Enjoy the fabulous views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, and—on a very clear day—Maui’s Haleakala in the distance.
In Waikoloa Village, 68-1793 Melia St., Waikoloa. www.waikoloavillagegolf.com. 808/883-9621. Greens fees $100 ($85 Paniolo Greens guests) before 1:30pm; $66 after. Children ages 7–17 $45 before 1:30pm; $41 after 2pm. From the airport, turn left on Hwy. 19; head 18 miles to stoplight at Waikoloa Rd. Turn right, drive uphill 6½ miles to left on Paniolo Ave. Take 1st right onto Lua Kula St. and follow ½-mile to Melia St.
Hilo
Hilo Municipal Golf Course This 146-acre course is great for the casual golfer: It’s flat, scenic, and often fun. Just don’t go after a heavy rain (especially in winter); the fairways can get really soggy and play can slow way down. The rain does keep the 18-hole course green and beautiful, though. Wonderful trees (monkeypods, coconuts, eucalyptus, and banyans) dot the grounds, and the views—of Mauna Kea on one side and Hilo Bay on the other—are breathtaking. There are four sets of tees, with a par-71 from all; the back tees give you 6,325 yards of play. It’s the only municipal course on the island, so getting a tee time can be a challenge; weekdays are the best bet. Facilities include a driving range, pro shop, club rentals, restaurant, and snack bar.
340 Haihai St. (btw. Kinoole and Iwalani sts.), Hilo. www.hawaiicounty.gov/pr-golf. 808/959-7711. Greens fees $35 Mon–Fri, $40 Sat–Sun and holidays; carts $20.
Naniloa Golf Course At first glance, this semiprivate 9-hole course just off Hilo Bay looks pretty flat and short, but once you get beyond the 1st hole—a wide, straightforward 330-yard par-4—things get challenging. The tree-lined fairways require straight drives, and the huge lake on the 2nd and 5th holes is sure to haunt you. This course is very popular with locals and visitors alike. Facilities include a driving range, putting green, pro shop, and club rentals.
120 Banyan Dr. (at the intersection of hwys. 11 and 19), Hilo. 808/935-3000. Greens fees 9 holes, $12 adults ($9 seniors 62 and over, $5 kids under 17); carts $12.
Hiking
Trails on the Big Island wind through fields of coastal lava rock, deserts, rainforests, and mountain tundra, sometimes covered with snow. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes, sunscreen, and a hat, and take plenty of water; for longer hikes, particularly in remote areas, it may also be essential to bring food, a flashlight, and a trail map—not one that requires a cellphone signal to access (coverage may be nonexistent). Hunting may be permitted in rural, upcountry, or remote areas, so stay on the trails and wear bright clothing.
The island has 16 trails in the state’s Na Ala Hele Trail & Access System (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/974-4382), highlights of which are included below; see the website for more information. For an even greater number of trails on a variety of public lands, see the detailed descriptions on www.bigislandhikes.com.
Kona & Kohala Coasts
The Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail (www.nps.gov/alka; 808/326-6012, ext. 101) is the designation for an ancient, 175-mile series of paths through coastal lava rock, from Upolu Point in North Kohala along the island’s west coast to Ka Lae (South Point) and east to Puna’s Wahaula Heiau, an extensive temple complex. Some were created as long-distance trails, others for fishing and gathering, while a few were reserved for royal or chiefly use. There’s unofficial access through the four national park sites—Puukohola Heiau, Kaloko-Honokohau, Puuhonua O Honaunau, and Hawaii Volcanoes (see “Attractions & Points of Interest” on p. 187)—but it’s easy, free, and fun to walk a portion of the 15.4-mile stretch between Kawaihae and Anaehoomalu Bay, part of the state’s Na Ala Hele trails system (www.hawaiitrails.org; 808/974-4382). Signs mark only the 8-mile portion of Ala Kahakai between the northern terminus of Ohaiula Beach at Spencer Park (p. 226) through Puako to Holoholokai Beach Park, near the petroglyph field on the Mauna Lani Resort, but it’s fairly simple to follow farther south by hugging the shoreline, past resort hotels and multimillion-dollar homes, anchialine ponds, and jagged lava formations.
For those not satisfied with the view from the Pololu Valley Lookout (p. 196), the steep, 1-mile Pololu Valley Trail will lead you just behind the black-sand beach (beware of high surf and riptides). In addition to a 420-foot elevation change, the trail’s challenges can include slippery mud and tricky footing over ancient cobblestones. As with all windward areas, be prepared for pesky mosquitos and/or cool mist.
If you’re willing to venture on Saddle Road (Hwy. 200), which some rental-car companies still forbid, the Puu Huluhulu Trail is an easy, .6-mile hike that gradually loops around both crests of this forested cinder cone, with panoramic views of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa between the trees. There’s a parking lot in front of the hunter check-in station at the junction of the Mauna Loa observatory access road and Saddle Road.
The Hamakua Coast
The 25% grade on the 1-mile “hike” down the road to Waipio Valley (p. 203) is a killer on the knees, and no picnic coming back up, but that’s just the start of the epic, 18-mile round-trip adventure involving the Muliwai Trail, a very strenuous hike to primeval, waterfall-laced Waimanu Valley. This trail is the island’s closest rival to Kauai’s Kalalau Trail (p. 511), and so is only worth attempting by very physically fit and well-prepared hikers. Once in Waipio Valley, you must follow the beach to Wailoa Stream, ford it, and cross the dunes to the west side of the valley. There the zigzag Muliwai Trail officially begins, carving its way some 1,300 feet up the cliff; the reward at the third switchback is a wonderful view of Hiilawe Falls. Ahead lie 5 miles of 12 smaller, tree-covered gulches to cross before your first view of pristine Waimanu Valley, which has nine campsites (see “Camping” on p. 271) and two outhouses, but no drinking water. The trail is eroded in places and slippery when wet—which is often, due to the 100-plus inches of rain, which can also flood streams. This explains why the vast majority of those who see Waimanu Valley do so via helicopter (p. 218).
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
This magnificent national treasure and Hawaiian cultural icon (p. 182) has more than 150 miles of trails, including many day hikes, most of which are well maintained and well marked; a few are paved or have boardwalks, permitting strollers and wheelchairs. Warning: If you have heart or respiratory problems or if you’re pregnant, don’t attempt any hike in the park; the fumes could bother you. Also: Stacked rocks known as ahu mark trails crossing lava; please do not disturb or create your own.
Plan ahead by downloading maps and brochures on the park website (www.nps.gov/havo), which also lists areas closed due to current eruptions. Always check conditions with the rangers at the Kilauea Visitor Center, where you can pick up detailed trail guides. Note: All overnight backcountry hiking or camping requires a $10 permit, available only the day of or the day before your hike, from the park’s Backcountry Office ( 808/985-6178).
In addition to sights described on the Crater Rim Drive tour (p. 213) and Chain of Craters Road tour (p. 216), here are some of the more accessible highlights for hikers, all demonstrating the power of Pele:
Kilauea Iki Trail The 4-mile loop trail begins 2 miles from the visitor center on Crater Rim Road, descends through a forest of ferns into still-fuming Kilauea Iki Crater, and then crosses the crater floor past the vent where a 1959 lava blast shot a fountain of fire 1,900 feet into the air for 36 days. Allow 2 hours for this fair-to-moderate hike, and look for white-tailed tropicbirds and Hawaiian hawks above you.
Devastation Trail Up on the rim of Kilauea Iki Crater, you can see what an erupting volcano did to a once-flourishing ohia forest. The scorched earth with its ghostly tree skeletons stands in sharp contrast to the rest of the lush forest. Everyone can take this 1-mile round-trip hike on a paved path across the eerie bed of black cinders. The trailhead is on Crater Rim Road at Puu Puai Overlook.
Kipuka Puaulu (Bird Park) Trail This easy 1.2-mile round-trip hike lets you see native Hawaiian flora and fauna in a little oasis of living nature in a field of lava, known as a kīpuka. For some reason, the once red-hot lava skirted this mini-forest and let it survive. Go early in the morning or in the evening (or, even better, just after a rain) to see native birds like the ’apapane (a small, bright-red bird with black wings and tail) and the ’i’iwi (larger and orange-vermilion colored, with a curved salmon-hued bill). Native trees along the trail include giant ohia, koa, soapberry, kolea, and mamane.
Puu Huluhulu This moderate 3-mile round-trip to the summit of a cinder cone (which shares its name with the one on Saddle Road, described above) crosses lava flows from 1973 and 1974, lava tree molds, and kīpuka. At the top is a panoramic vista of Mauna Loa, Mauna Kea, the coastline, and the often steaming vent of Puu Oo. The trailhead is in the Mauna Ulu parking area on Chain of Craters Road, 8 miles from the visitor center. (Sulfur fumes can be stronger here than on other trails.)
At the end of Chain of Craters Road, a 1.25 mile stretch of pavement leads to the 8-mile emergency access gravel road to Kalapana, overrun midway by a 2016 lava flow; the first few miles have interpretive signs but it may have to reopen to vehicles if the May 2018 eruption cuts off other roads. For avid trekkers, several long, steep, unshaded hikes lead to the beaches and rocky bays on the park’s remote shoreline; they’re all considered overnight backcountry hikes and thus require a permit. Only hiking diehards should consider attempting the Mauna Loa Trail, perhaps the most challenging hike in all of Hawaii. Many hikers have had to be rescued over the years due to high-altitude sickness or exposure after becoming lost in snowy or foggy conditions. From the trailhead at the end of scenic but narrow Mauna Loa Road, about an hour’s drive from the visitor center, it’s a 7.5-mile trek to the Puu Ulaula (“Red Hill”) cabin at 10,035 feet, and then 12 more miles up to the primitive Mauna Loa summit cabin at 13,250 feet, where the climate is subarctic and overnight temperatures are below freezing year-round. In addition to backcountry permits (see above), this 4-day round-trip requires special gear, great physical condition, and careful planning.
Horseback Riding
Although vast Parker Ranch, the historic center of Hawaiian ranching, no longer offers horseback tours, several other ranches in upcountry Waimea provide opportunities for riding with sweeping views of land and sea. Picturesque Waipio Valley is also another focus of equestrian excursions. Note: Most stables require riders to be at least 8 years old and weigh no more than 230 pounds; confirm before booking.
The 11,000-acre Ponoholo Ranch, whose herd of cattle (varying between 6,000 and 8,000) is second only to Parker Ranch’s, is the scenic home base for Paniolo Adventures (www.panioloadventures.com; 808/889-5354). Most of its five rides are open-range style and include brief stretches of trotting and cantering, although the gorgeous scenery outweighs the equine excitement—all but the 4-hour Wrangler Ride ($175) are suitable for beginners. The tamest option is the 1-hour City Slicker ride ($69), but the 1½-hour Sunset Ride ($89) appears to be the most popular. Boots, light jackets, Australian dusters, chaps, helmets, hats, drinks, and even sunscreen are provided. Look for Paniolo Adventures’ red barn on Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), just north of mile marker 13.
Naalapa Stables (www.naalapastables.com; 808/889-0022) operates rides at Kahua Ranch, which also has an entrance on Kohala Mountain Road, north of mile marker 11. Riding open-range style, you’ll pass ancient Hawaiian ruins, through lush pastures with grazing sheep and cows, and along mountaintops with panoramic coastal views. The horses and various riding areas are suited to everyone from first-timers to experienced equestrians. There are several trips a day: a 2½-hour tour at 9am and 1pm for $94, and a 1½-hour tour at 10am and 1:30pm for $73; check-in is a half-hour earlier.
Naalapa has another stable in Waipio Valley ( 808/775-0419), which offers the more rugged Waipio Valley Horseback Adventure , a 2½-hour ride that starts with a four-wheel-drive (4WD) van ride down to this little-inhabited but widely revered valley (p. 203). The horses are sure-footed in the rocky streams and muddy trails, while the guides, who are well versed in Hawaiian history, provide running commentary. The cost is $94 for adults, with tours at 9:30am and 1pm Monday to Saturday. Don’t forget your camera or bug spray; check in a half-hour earlier at Waipio Valley Artworks, 48-5415 Kukuihaele Rd., off Highway 240, about 8 miles northwest of Honokaa.
Waipio Valley Artworks (see above) is also the check-in point for Waipio Ridge Stables (www.waipioridgestables.com; 877/757-1414), which leads riders on a 2½-hour Valley Rim Ride ($90), including views of the beach below and Hiilawe waterfall at the rear of the deep valley. The 5-hour Hidden Waterfalls Ride ($175) includes the sights along the rim ride and then follows the stream that feeds Hiilawe through the rainforest to a picnic and swim in a bracingly cool waterfall pool, but it’s rather long if you’re not into riding. Note: Fog sometimes obscures views of Waipio Valley from the rim.
Tennis
Although some resorts only allow guests to use their tennis facilities, the Kohala Coast has several delightful exceptions. The 11-court Seaside Tennis Club ( 808/882-5420) at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 264) is frequently ranked among the world’s finest for good reason: Three of the courts ($25 per person) are right on the ocean and all enjoy beautiful landscaping. The club also boasts luxurious locker rooms, a pro shop with racket and ball machine rentals, daily clinics, round robins, and lessons for ages 4 and up. Those not staying at the hotel just need to make a reservation for a court (open daily 8am–5pm) or lesson.
Just as highly ranked, the Hawaii Tennis Center 808/887-7532) at the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii (p. 263) offers 10 courts (including one stadium court), with evening play available until 9pm by reservation. It has a pro shop, rents rackets and ball machines, and offers lessons. Fees are $30 per court; check in at pro shop. The Pa Lea Lea Ocean Sports Tennis program (www.hawaiioceansports.com; 808/886-6666, ext. 108) at Hilton Waikoloa Village (p. 263) provides five cushioned courts and one stadium court, plus lessons, clinics, and racket and ball-machine rentals. Court fees are $20 per hour ($30 per day if available).
You can also play for free at any Hawaii County tennis court; the easiest way to find one nearest you is to visit www.tennisinhawaii.com. For those in Kailua-Kona, the four courts at Old Kona Airport Park (p. 224) offer the best experience.
Ziplining gives Big Island visitors an exhilarating way to view dramatic gulches, thick forests, gushing waterfalls, and other inspiring scenery—without significantly altering the landscape. Typically, the pulley-and-harness systems have redundant safety mechanisms, with lines and gear inspected daily and multiple checks of your equipment during the tour; your biggest worry may be losing your cellphone or anything not in a zipped pocket. Most outfitters also rent GoPro video cameras that attach to your helmets, so you can relive your whizzing rides at home.
Note: For safety reasons, tours have minimum ages (listed below) and/or minimum and maximum weights; read the fine print carefully before booking. Prices reflect online booking discounts.
North Kohala The Australian eucalyptus and native kukui trees on Kohala Zipline’s Canopy Tour (www.kohalazipline.com; 800/464-1993 or 808/331-3620) might not provide the most colorful panoramas, but this nine-line adventure ($178 adults, $154 kids 8–12) emphasizes environmental awareness and cultural history in a compelling way—and the extra-quiet ziplines and multiple suspension bridges are a hoot, too. You’ll fly from platform to platform in a sylvan setting that includes ancient taro terraces believed to have been farmed by Kamehameha before he became king. Tours depart from the zip station on Highway 270 between Hawi and Kapaau up to 16 times daily. For a very special splurge, take the outfitter’s 8-hour Kohala Zip & Dip , which combines the Canopy Tour with Hawaii Forest & Trail’s fascinating Kohala Waterfalls Adventure (p. 219), including a waterfall swim and picnic overlooking beautiful Pololu Valley. The Zip & Dip tours ($264 adults, $236 for ages 8–12, with lunch) depart from Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort and Hawaii Forest & Trail headquarters on Highway 19 in Kailua-Kona, 74-5035 Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (north of Kealakehe Parkway).
Hilo & the Hamakua Coast A few miles north of Hilo, KapohoKine Adventures (https://kapohokine.com; 808/964-1000) has 2 miles of dual (side-by-side) ziplines, eight in all, soaring over rainforest, waterfalls, and farmland on its Zipline Through Paradise tour ($189 adults, $169 ages 5 to 11, walk-along $49); the Zip ‘n Swim version pairs zipping with a swim in a waterfall and deli lunch ($238). Other options include transport from Kona, barbecue, helicopter ride, and/or a guided tour of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. For an unrivaled emphasis on Hawaiian culture, ask about the Nohona Hawaii Tour ($299 adults, $289 children), which combines zipping with a workshop in traditional herbal medicine, crafts, and legends. Tours depart from KapohoKine’s store at the Grand Naniloa Hotel, 93 Banyan Dr., Hilo.
The name is misleading, but the thrills are real on the Skyline Akaka Falls Adventure (www.zipline.com/bigisland; 888/864-6947), which actually zips past the nearly 250-foot-tall Kolekole Falls, downstream from more famous Akaka Falls (p. 200) in Honomu, 12 miles north of Hilo. The seven-line course builds in length and speed, while the well-informed guides share insights on local flora and fauna—including banana, taro, and wild pigs—and the area’s history as a sugar plantation. The 2½- to 3-hour tour costs $170 (ages 10 and older); a 5-hour Zip n’ Dip tour adds time at a waterfall swimming hole ($220).
The Umauma Falls Zipline Tour (www.ziplinehawaii.com; 808/930-9477) lives up to its name, where you see the captivating, three-tiered falls (p. 203) and 13 other smaller cascades as you zip along its 2-mile, 9-line course ($189 ages 4 and older) in Hakalau, about 16 miles north of Hilo. The Zip & Dip option ($239 ages 4 and older) includes an hour of kayaking and swimming under a waterfall, next to the region’s only known petroglyph. For a quicker thrill, try the three-person giant swing ($20, ages 4 and older), which soars 150 feet over the falls. The new Umauma Waterfall Rappel and River Experience skips the zips but combines rappelling down two waterfalls, hiking, and swimming ($285, ages 8 and older).
Where to Stay on the Big Island
For additional bed-and-breakfasts, visit the website of the Hawaii Island B&B Association (www.stayhawaii.com), which only allows licensed, inspected properties to become members; only eight are currently listed, reflecting the impact of more casual Airbnb and vacation rentals. You’ll find numerous listings of condos and houses on sites such as VRBO.com and Airbnb.com, which have been less of a hot-button issue here than on other islands. To help you compare units and complexes, as well as guarantee rapid assistance should issues arise during your stay, though, consider booking vacation rentals that have professional management, or go through an island-based company, such as those listed for specific regions below.
All rooms listed below come with a private bathroom and free parking unless otherwise noted; all pools are outdoors. Rates do not include the state’s 13.41% tax, while cleaning fees refer to one-time charges, not daily service.
The Kona Coast
Many of the lodgings in Kailua-Kona and Keauhou are timeshares or individually owned condos; rates, decor, and amenities in the latter may vary widely by unit. For a broad selection of well-managed condos and a smaller selection of homes (most with pools), contact Kona Rentals (www.konarentals.com; 800/799-5662) or Kona Hawaii Vacation Rentals (www.konahawaii.com; 809/244-4752 or 808/329-3333). Note: Prices and minimum-stay requirements may be significantly higher during the week before and after the Ironman World Championship (usually the second Sat in Oct), as well as during holidays.
Central Kailua-Kona
In addition to the lodgings below, consider booking a condo at the Royal Sea Cliff , on the ocean side of Alii Drive about 2 miles south of the Kailua Pier. There’s no beach, but it has two oceanfront pools, often the site of free entertainment, and a tennis court. Outrigger Hotels & Resorts (www.outrigger.com; 800/688-7444 or 808/329-8021) manages 62 of the 148 large air-conditioned units, ranging from studios (650 sq. ft.) up to two-bedroom, two-bathroom units (1,100–1,300 sq. ft.), all with full kitchens and washer/dryers. Outrigger charges $125 to $269 (two-night minimum), plus cleaning fees of $125 to $225, for its well-appointed accommodations, with free parking and Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel This Courtyard Marriott–managed hotel lives up to its premium setting in front of King Kamehameha’s royal compound on Kailua Bay. Rooms boast not only flatscreen TVs, updated bathrooms, and modern furnishings, but also a sense of history and place. Subtle patterns in the stylish guest rooms reflect lava, native plants, and traditional tattoo designs, while colors suggest sand, coffee, and rainforest ferns. The high-ceilinged, bright lobby is home to a gallery of royal portraits and Hawaiian cultural scenes by the late Herb Kawainui Kane. More recently, the hotel restored its two tennis courts and pro shop, added a yoga studio, and expanded the offerings at Honu’s on the Beach , its popular indoor/outdoor restaurant. Note: In early October, this is Ironman central, full of buff bodies and international triathletes, all abuzz about the world championship that starts and ends just outside the hotel’s front door.
75-5660 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona. www.konabeachhotel.com. 800/367-2111 or 808/329-2911. 452 units. $199–$329 up to 4 people; from $399 one-bedroom suite. Check for online discounts and packages. Self-parking $18, valet $26. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; convenience store; fitness center; luau; infinity pool; hot tub; rental cars; room service; spa; 2 lighted tennis courts and pro shop; watersports equipment rentals; yoga studio; free Wi-Fi.
Holiday Inn Express Kailua-Kona Its neutral-toned, modern “chain hotel” decor may seem out of place in Hawaii, but this 75-room hotel is nevertheless a hidden gem. Tucked on a one-way street between Alii Drive and Kuakini Highway, the three-story building offers surprisingly quiet rooms, some with a glimpse of the ocean, including suites with a sofa sleeper. All have 42-inch flatpanel TVs, ample desk space, and gleaming bathrooms; the pool, hot tub, and fitness center are compact but also immaculate. The hot breakfast buffet may lack tropical touches, but it’s free. The only downside: The hotel has just 55 parking spaces ($10) in a shared lot. Luckily, the hospitable staff can advise you where to nab another spot.
77-146 Sarona Rd., Kailua-Kona. www.hiexpress.com/kailua-kona. 855/373-5450 or 808/329-2599. 75 units. $169 room, $179–$219 suite, $199–$239 oceanview suite; rates include up to 4 people per room. Parking $10. Amenities: Free breakfast buffet; business center; fitness center; hot tub; laundry; pool; free Wi-Fi.
Kona Magic Sands With Kailua-Kona’s largest (if somewhat fickle) sandy beach next door, and oceanfront lanais on every unit to soak in the sunsets and let in the sound of pounding waves, this location is ideal for couples who don’t want to spend a bundle at a resort. All the units are studios, with the living/sleeping area bracketed by the lanai on one end and the kitchen on the other. Because they’re individually owned (and some managed by other companies than the one listed below), furnishings vary greatly unit to unit. Try to book a corner unit, since those have larger lanais, or spring for the luxuriously remodeled No. 302, which comes with granite counters, travertine tile floors, and gorgeous hardwood cabinets, including one with a Murphy bed and Tempur-Pedic mattress. The pool is also right on the ocean.
77-6452 Alii Dr. (next to Laaloa/Magic Sands Beach Park), Kailua-Kona. Reservations c/o Hawaii Resort Management. www.konahawaii.com. 800/244-4752 or 808/329-3333. 37 units, all with shower only. Apr 15–Sept 30: $115–$189 corner. Oct 1–Apr 14: $185–$199. Higher rates for stays less than 3 nights; weekly and monthly discounts available. Cleaning fee $85 for 3-night or longer stays. Amenities: Pool; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Kona Tiki Hotel How close are you to the ocean here? Close enough that waves occasionally break on the seawall, sending sea spray into the oceanfront pool, and close enough that their constant crashing drowns out all or most of the traffic noise from nearby Alii Drive. The small, simply furnished rooms (no TV or phones) feature homey decor, such as pastel tropical print bedspreads. All come with oceanfront lanais, mini-fridges, and ceiling fans (you’ll need them); upper-story units have kitchenettes so you can make light meals in addition to the basic continental breakfast (bagels, fruit, coffee) served by the pool. The warm, helpful staff members are quick to lend beach gear and give travel tips; they also make every sunset a special occasion, enlisting guests to help light the tiki torches and blow a conch shell. With no fees for parking, Wi-Fi, or cleaning, this is a true bargain.
75-5968 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona (about a mile from downtown). www.konatikihotel.com. 808/329-1425. 15 units. $99–$199, includes continental breakfast. 3-night minimum (4 for suite). Extra person $20 per adult ($27 in high season, Dec 15–Mar 31 and Ironman week), $10 per child 6–15. Futon $6 per night, crib $2 per night. Deposit required; credit cards accepted over $350; PayPal for lesser amounts. Amenities: Pool; free Wi-Fi.
The cool, rural uplands above central Kailua-Kona are home to two distinctive lodgings. Part of a 30-acre coffee farm in quaint Holualoa, owner Cassandra Hazen’s gorgeous Balinese-themed Holualoa Inn (www.holualoainn.com; 800/392-1812 or 808/324-1121) offers an oceanview pool, lush gardens, six immaculate suites ($395–$495), a handsome cottage with a full kitchen ($560–$590), and the spacious, elegantly renovated Red Barn one-bedroom suite ($595–$650) at the top of the hillside property; rates include gourmet breakfast. At Silver Oaks Guest Ranch (www.silveroaksranch.com; 808/325-2000), guests in two simply furnished cottages ($195 double) enjoy meeting miniature donkeys and other animals on the 10-acre working ranch, as well as sunsets from the pool and hot tub; groups may book additional suites in the main house.
Expensive
Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Sometimes you do get what you pay for—and that’s just about anything you could desire at this serenely welcoming resort, only a 15-minute drive from the airport but worlds away from anything resembling hustle and bustle. Rooms in the small clusters of two-story guest-room buildings and villa start at 635 square feet, with private lanais and large bathrooms outfitted with glass-walled showers and deep soaking tubs; ask for one with an outdoor lava-rock shower. All have views of the ocean or one of seven swimming pools; the adults-only Palm Grove Pool offers a swim-up bar and daybeds, but snorkeling in Kings’ Pond amid rays and tropical fish remains a top draw. Dinner at Ulu Ocean Grill (p. 276) or the Beach Tree is consistently excellent, if costly; it can be hard to tear yourself away in search of cheaper options nearly a half-hour away. Kudos to the Four Seasons for bucking the resort-fee trend, for not charging for its children’s or cultural programs, and for numerous environmental measures, including support for the Hawaiian Legacy Hardwoods’ koa reforestation (see “Planting a Koa Legacy Tree,” p. 220). Note: The 18-hole Jack Nicklaus signature golf course, excellent spa and huge fitness center are open only to hotel guests and members.
72-100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.fourseasons.com/hualalai. 888/340-5662 or 808/325-8000. 243 units. $839–$1,504 double; from $1,739 suite. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room (maximum 3 guests per room; couples with more than 1 child must get a suite or 2 rooms). Self-parking free; valet parking $25 per day. Amenities: 5 restaurants and bars; 2 bars; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; cultural center; fitness center; 18-hole golf course; 7 pools; 5 hot tubs; room service; spa; 8 tennis courts (4 lit for night play); watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Keauhou
Expensive
Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay The name and look have changed several times over the years, but this excellently priced resort overlooking Keauhou Bay and the ocean just keeps getting better. Cultural expert and textile designer Sig Zane (see “Big Island Shopping,” p. 286) is behind the splashes of bright color and indigenous plant-inspired graphics, while signs and tours highlight the area’s rich cultural history. In addition to the sandy-bottomed pool, water slide, and kid-pleasing fountain play area, there’s a lounge just for teens, with Xbox, Wii, and table tennis. The vast majority of rooms have lanais, most with full or partial ocean views—all the better to ogle the manta rays that frequent this area. You can also spot rays from the lanai off Rays on the Bay (see p. 276), a vivacious restaurant/lounge with fire pits and tasty cocktails. Note: Check online for specials to offset the $30 daily resort fee and $15 parking. Upgrade to the Club Level to enjoy the breakfast buffet and evening pupus with cocktails at Kaiulu Club Lounge.
78-128 Ehukai St., Kailua-Kona. www.sheratonkona.com. 888/488-3535 or 808/930-4900. 509 units. $199–$432 double; suites from $499. Online specials available. Daily resort fee of $30 includes bottled water, local calls, Kona Trolley, yoga, cultural tours, Wi-Fi, and more. Self-parking $15, valet $22. Extra person or rollaway $65. Children 18 and under stay free in adult’s room using existing bedding. Amenities: 3 restaurants; cafe; 2 bars; babysitting; rental bikes; concierge; fitness center; weekly luau (p. 292); multilevel pool w/water slide; room service; spa; 2 tennis courts, basketball and volleyball courts; whirlpool; free Wi-Fi.
Moderate
Kona Seaspray Pay close attention to the details when booking a unit here, across Alii Drive from bustling Kahaluu Beach, because the eight, spacious two-bedroom/two-bathroom units in the three-story main building have varying bed types, views, and decor. All offer ocean views (best from the top two floors), full kitchens, and washer/dryers, but some have been remodeled with granite counters in the kitchen and slate tiles on the lanai. Two one-bedroom units in the adjacent, two-story Seaspray building share laundry facilities. A pretty blue-tiled wall provides privacy for the ground-floor pool, with lounges and a hammock next to a covered grill and dining area.
78-6671 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.konaseaspray.com. 808/322-2403. 10 units. Main building: $175–$205 1-bedroom; $190–$215 2-bedroom. Seaspray building: $175–$205 double. 5% weekly discount, 10% discount May and Sept. Extra person $20. Bedroom air conditioning (some units) $10/day. Cleaning fee $110 2-bedroom, plus $20 per 5th or more person. 3-night minimum. Amenities: Barbecue; pool; whirlpool spa; free Wi-Fi.
South Kona
This rural region of steeply sloping hills, often dotted with coffee and macadamia nut farms, is home to many unassuming B&Bs that may appeal to budget travelers who don’t mind being far from the beach.
At the higher end, in every sense, Horizon Guest House (www.horizonguesthouse.com; 808/938-7822) offers four suites ($250–$350) with private entrances and lanais on a 40-acre property, including a spacious pool and whirlpool spa, at 1,100 feet of elevation in Honaunau, 21 miles south of Kailua-Kona. Rates include a gourmet breakfast by host Clem Classen; children 13 and under are not allowed.
Manago Hotel You can’t beat the bargain rates at this plantation-era hotel, opened in 1917 and now run by the third generation of the friendly Manago family. Although clean, the 22 original rooms with shared bathrooms ($41 double) should be considered just above camping; they’re ultra-spartan and subject to highway noise; children younger than 18 are not allowed. The 42 newer rooms in the three-story wing at the rear also have rather bare walls, but they come with private bathrooms and views of the coast that improve with each floor. Book the third-floor corner Japanese room for a ryokan experience, sleeping on a futon and soaking in the ofuro (hot tub). Note: There’s no elevator. Walls are thin, and sound can carry through jalousie windows used to let cooling breezes in, but neighbors tend to be considerate. The lounge next to the Manago Hotel Restaurant (p. 277) has a TV.
82-6151 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook (Hwy. 11, makai side, btw. mile markers 109 and 110, 12 miles south of Kailua-Kona). www.managohotel.com. 808/323-2642. 64 units. $42 double with shared bathroom; $69–$74 double with private bathroom; $88 double Japanese room with private bathroom. Extra person $3. 4-person maximum. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free Wi-Fi.
The Kohala Coast
South Kohala
There’s no way around it: The three resort areas here are very costly, but the beaches, weather, amenities, and services at their hotels are among the best in the state. Although you’ll miss out on fabulous pools and other hotel perks, you can shave costs (and save money on dining) by booking a vacation rental. For the most affordable, rent one of the 38 Puako Beach Condos in Puako, a one-road, oceanfront town hidden between the Mauna Lani and Mauna Kea resorts. Island Beach Rentals ( 808/885-8856; www.hawaiioceanfront.com) has some of the best units (including corner unit 101, offering three bedrooms, two baths, two lanais and air conditioning); rates start at $139, plus varying cleaning fees. Down the road is Bailey and Baki Wharton’s spacious, ground-floor one-bedroom Puako Beach rental with a large screened porch; it’s below their unit, and averages $195 a night (www.vrbo.com/821534). South Kohala Management boasts the most listings (100-plus) of condos and homes in the Mauna Lani, Mauna Kea, and Waikoloa Beach resorts (www.southkohala.com; 800/822-4252). Outrigger Hotels & Resorts also manages well-maintained condos and townhomes in six complexes in the Mauna Lani and Waikoloa Beach resorts (www.outrigger.com; 866/956-4262).
Right on the sand at Anaehoomalu Bay, the lively Lava Lava Beach Club restaurant and bar (www.lavalavabeachclub.com/bigisland; 808/769-5282) also offers four luxurious beach cottages ($550–$675), with kitchenettes, king beds, day beds, and outdoor showers; keep in mind the bar is open until 10pm nightly, with live music until 9pm.
Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii The two guest wings at this polished but inviting sanctuary are set off the main lobby like two arms ready to embrace the well-manicured grounds and rugged shoreline; you may feel like hugging it, too, when you have to leave. Tucked among burbling waterfalls and lush greenery are 10 thatched-roof huts in the Spa Without Walls, which has another five oceanfront cabanas. Beyond the 10,000-square-foot swimming pool lies a cove of soft sand, where the Hui Holokai Beach Ambassadors make guests feel at home in the water and on shore, teaching all kinds of Hawaiiana and sharing their knowledge about the area’s cultural treasures, such as the nearby Puako Petroglyph Archaeological Preserve (p. 194). The elegant, generously proportioned rooms (starting at 510 sq. ft.) with lanais offer subtle island accents such as rattan and carved wood, marble bathrooms and other luxurious fittings. Golf, tennis, and dining are also exceptional here, as befits the prices.
At the Mauna Lani Resort, 1 N. Kaniku Dr., Waimea. www.fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii. 800/845-9905 or 808/885-2000. 540 units. $319–$769 double; $520–$820 Gold Floor double; from $869 suite. Check for online packages. Extra person $75. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Daily resort fee $30, includes self-parking and Wi-Fi. Valet parking $10. Amenities: 6 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s program; concierge; 2 championship golf courses; fitness center; luau (p. 292); pool; room service; spa; theater; 10 tennis courts (7 lit for night play); watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Westin Hapuna Beach Resort Flying the Westin flag since summer 2018, this dramatically reshaped sister property to the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has become a polished gem above the wide sands of Hapuna Beach . Its open-air entrance now cascades directly to its large, tropically landscaped pool complex that includes a new infinity pool just for adults, while all of its many cafes, bars, and restaurants have been reimagined. Although one wing has been converted to vacation condos, the refreshed rooms still start at 600 square feet, the largest standard rooms on the Kohala Coast, all with balconies and an ocean view. The sprawling, terraced grounds also host an 18-hole Arnold Palmer championship golf course (p. 246), fitness center, and spa.
At the Mauna Kea Resort, 62-100 Kaunaoa Dr., Waimea. 800/882-6060 or 808/880-1111. www.westinhapunabeach.com. 249 units. $325–$465 double; from $765 suite. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room using existing bedding. Adult rollaway $75, child rollaway $40. Daily resort fee $30, includes self-parking and Wi-Fi. Valet parking $20. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; cafe/gift shop; seasonal children’s program; concierge; 18-hole championship golf course (p. 246); fitness center; pool; room service; spa; access to Mauna Kea Beach Hotel tennis center; watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Hilton Waikoloa Village It’s up to you how to navigate this 62-acre oceanfront Disneyesque golf resort, laced with fantasy pools, lagoons, and a profusion of tropical plants in between three low-rise towers. If you’re in a hurry, take the Swiss-made air-conditioned tram; for a more leisurely ride, handsome mahogany boats ply canals dotted with tropical fish. Or just walk a half-mile or so through galleries of Asian and Pacific art on your way to the ample-sized rooms designed for families. Among the best are the 161 rooms and eight suites in the Lagoon Tower’s Makai section—all ocean view, with upgraded bathrooms (including dual vanities) and high-end bedding. Kids will want to head straight to the 175-foot water slide and 1-acre Kona Pool, and will pester you to pony up for the DolphinQuest encounter with Pacific bottlenose dolphins. The actual beach is rough, hence an enormous, sand-fronted swimming lagoon that’s home to sea turtles and other marine life. You won’t want for places to eat here either; its Kona Tap Room, a partnership with Kona Brewing Co. (p. 276) offers the brewer’s full lineup on tap, including seasonal beers found only here and at the Kona brewery. Note: Self-parking ($27) is not included in the hefty $35 resort fee, so you may as well pay $10 more for valet parking to avoid a long, warm walk.
69-425 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa. www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com. 800/445-8667 or 808/886-1234. 1,241 units. From $265 double with resort view ($325 ocean view) and from $815 suite. Daily resort fee $35 includes Wi-Fi, local/toll-free calls, cultural lessons, in-room PlayStation3 with movies and games, and more. Extra person $50. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Self-parking $27; valet parking $37. Amenities: 9 restaurants; 5 bars; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s program; concierge; fitness center; 2 18-hole golf courses; luau (p. 292); 3 pools (1 adults-only); Jacuzzis; room service; spa; 6 tennis courts; watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Mauna Kea Beach Hotel Old-money travelers have long embraced this golf-course resort, which began as a twinkle in Laurance Rockefeller’s eye and in 1965 became the first hotel development on the rugged lava fields of the Kohala Coast. It still exudes upscale tranquility with an uncluttered, Asian-inspired aesthetic in spacious, modern rooms, while families relish the even larger lodgings in the Beachfront Wing and a new array of Hawaiian cultural activities, including throw-net fishing and hula lessons. At press time, plans were still afoot to expand the spa and add an adults-only pool. Dining, particularly at Manta (p. 278) and the gleaming Copper Bar (p. 292), remain top-notch, with glorious views from both the golf course (p. 247) and tennis center (p. 253). The pool is small by today’s standards, but sandy Kaunaoa Beach (p. 226), where manta rays skim the north point, is just a few steps away. The true pearls are the gracious staff members, many of whom know several generations of guests by name. Note: The hotel is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, but not owned by Marriott.
At the Mauna Kea Resort, 62-100 Mauna Kea Beach Dr., Waimea. https://maunakeabeachhotel.com. 866/977-4589 or 808/882-7222. 252 units. $625–$1,275 double; from $1,450 suite. Extra person $80. 3-adult maximum. Valet parking $20; self-parking $15. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 3 bars; cafe; babysitting; seasonal children’s program; concierge; 18-hole championship golf course (p. 247); fitness center; pool; hot tub; room service; 11 tennis courts; watersports rentals; basic free Wi-Fi; high-speed, $15 per day.
Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows Under new ownership and management, the 32-acre oceanfront resort planned to close for a major redesign in October 2018. After a $100 million-plus in renovations, it is expected to reopen in late 2019 as Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection. Every public space and accommodation will be remodeled, leading to fewer rooms (previously 341) and more oceanview suites; the opulent two-bedroom bungalows (2,700 sq. ft.) will also be updated. CanoeHouse (p. 278) will continue to offer sumptuous dining, with new three-meals-a-day service at Bay Terrace Restaurant. The new owners also plan to revamp the spa and 5,000-square-foot fitness center, create an adult infinity-edge pool with cabanas, update the family pool, add new beachfront services and children’s programs, and enhance existing cultural programs on the resort, like the monthly “Twilight at Kalahuipuaa” (see p. 291).
At the Mauna Lani Resort, 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr., Puako. maunalani.aubergeresorts.com. 800/367-2323 or 808/885-6622. Number of units, rates not yet announced. Expected amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; concierge; children’s program; 2 18-hole golf courses; fitness center with lap pool; 2 pools (adult and family); hot tub; room service; spa; access to tennis courts at the Fairmont Orchid; watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa Of all the lodgings in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, this hotel has the best location on Anaehoomalu Bay (nicknamed “A-Bay”; p. 225), with many rooms offering views of the crescent beach and historic fishponds; others look across the parking lot and gardens toward Mauna Kea. All were renovated in 2017; the luxury Cabana wing (closest to the water) debuted in 2018 with private outdoor showers on ground-floor lanais. Besides numerous beach watersports, kids enjoy the sandy-entrance children’s pool, while adults delight in the heated infinity-edge pool, the open-air espresso bar/cocktail lounge Akaula Lanai, the two-level Mandara Spa, and the spacious, well-equipped fitness center. The light-hued rooms are also enticing, with glass-walled balconies and plush beds with down comforters in crisp white duvets. Families should book one of the spacious corner rooms, which include a king-size bed and a sofa bed. Despite the steep resort fee ($30 daily), this hotel typically offers the best prices of the Kohala Coast resorts, with easy access to nearby golf courses. Note: Even better values are found at Marriott’s Waikoloa Ocean Club , handsome one- and two-bedroom timeshare suites with king beds, living rooms with sofabeds, and kitchenettes, with starting rates of $324—plus free Wi-Fi, free parking, and no resort fee.
69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa. www.marriotthawaii.com. 888/236-2427 or 808/886-6789. 290 hotel units: $322–$4,097 double; $409 suite. Cabana wing: $729. Hotel’s daily $30 resort fee includes cultural activities, Wi-Fi, fitness classes, and more. Self-parking $18, valet $28. Rollaway $45. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. 112 Ocean Club units: 1-bedroom from $327, 2-bedroom from $427. No resort fee; free self-parking, $10 valet parking. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; babysitting; cafe; concierge; cultural activities; fitness center; Jacuzzi; luau; 3 pools; rental-car desk; room service; spa; watersports rentals; free Wi-Fi.
North Kohala
This rural area, steeped in Hawaiian history and legend, has few overnight visitors, given its distance from swimmable beaches and other attractions. But it does include two luxurious accommodations that reflect its heritage in unique ways. At eco-friendly Puakea Ranch (www.puakearanch.com; 808/315-0805), west of Hawi and 400 feet above the coast, three plantation-era bungalows and a former cowboy bunkhouse have been beautifully restored as vacation rentals ($289–$629; 3- to 7-night minimum, $150-$200 cleaning fee). Sizes vary, as do amenities such as soaking tubs and swimming pools, but all have access to the organic farm produce and eggs, plus fast Wi-Fi. On the ocean bluff between Hawi and Kapaau, hidden from the road, the “eco-boutique” Hawaii Island Retreat (www.hawaiiislandretreat.com; 808/889-6336) offers 10 posh guest rooms and three bungalows with large bathrooms and balconies ($425–$500 double, 4-night minimum). Clustered near the saltwater infinity pool are seven yurts (large tentlike structures) with private bathrooms and shared indoor/outdoor showers ($195 double). Rates include a sumptuous, homegrown organic breakfast.
For a more economical stay, consider Makai Hale , a bed-and-breakfast in windy, higher-elevation Kohala Ranch, with panoramic ocean and Maui views. Jerry and Audrey Maluo offer one modern guest suite with queen bed, kitchenette, and bath ($165–$185, 2-night minimum), plus an optional queen bedroom with private bath ($110), both with access to the private pool and whirlpool spa and daily breakfast platters (www.makaihale.com; 808/880-1012).
Waimea
Within a 15-minute drive or less of Hapuna Beach, the cowboy town can be a good alternative to pricey resorts. Attractively remodeled with rustic-chic touches, the 30-unit Kamuela Inn sits in a quiet enclave off the main road, but still within walking distance of Merriman’s (p. 281) and other dining and shopping, at 65-1300 Kawaihae Rd. (www.thekamuelainn.com; 800/555-8968). Room rates ($139–$189) include continental breakfast; some units include kitchenettes and bedding for up to six. The original 1960s wing (rooms $129-$139) was slated for renovations at press time. Close to the center of town, the two-story, two-unit Belle Vue (www.hawaii-bellevue.com; 800/772-5044 or 808/885-7732) vacation rental has a penthouse apartment with high ceilings and views from the mountains to the distant sea, and a downstairs studio ($95–$175 double, $25 per extra person). Although decor is dated, both sleep four and come with breakfast fixings in kitchenettes. Note: Check VRBO.com and Airbnb.com for even more listings, such as the roomy Banana Hale studio ($95), where bananas grow just outside your window; owned by friendly local teachers, it’s off Highway 19, a few miles west of downtown Waimea (www.airbnb.com/rooms/6392442).
The Hamakua Coast
This emerald-green, virtually empty coast is a far drive from resort-worthy beaches and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and so is less frequented by overnight visitors (other than coqui frogs). Those who do choose to spend a night or more, though, will appreciate getting away from it all. Two miles north of Honokaa off Highway 240, the Waipio Wayside Inn Bed & Breakfast (www.waipiowayside.com; 800/833-8849 or 808/775-0275) perches on a sunny ocean bluff. A restored former plantation supervisor’s residence, the inn has five antiques-decorated rooms with modern bathrooms ($130–$210 double) and a handsome living/dining room, where owner Jacqueline Horne serves hot organic breakfasts promptly at 8am.
Closer to Hilo, in rustic Honomu, the sprawling, Victorian-inspired Palms Cliff House Inn (www.palmscliffhouse.com; 866/963-6076 or 808/963-6076) serves a full breakfast on its lanai overlooking Pohakumanu Bay. Some of its eight large, quiet suites ($199–$449) have air-conditioning and jetted tubs; all offer king beds and an ocean view.
Note: You’ll find these accommodations on “The Kohala Coast, Waimea & the Hamakua Coast” map on p. 259.
Hilo
Although several hotels line scenic Banyan Drive, most fall short of visitors’ expectations, with the exception of the Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo—A Doubletree by Hilton , described below. Be aware you may hear coqui frogs all night wherever windows are open in Hilo.
The owners of the Shipman House, a gracious Victorian mansion on Reed’s Island formerly run as a bed-and-breakfast, now just rent out two rooms ($75) in its 1910 guest cottage on Airbnb. The mirror-image units in the Shipman House Guest Cottage come with queen bed, microwave, mini-fridge, desk, Wi-Fi, and a shared screened porch; the Mauka Room (www.airbnb.com/rooms/19664488) receives more cooling night breezes than the Makai Room (www.airbnb.com/rooms/19682128). The Old Hawaiian Bed & Breakfast (www.thebigislandvacation.com; 877/961-2816 or 808/961-2816) provides easy access to Waianuenue (Rainbow Falls) from a quaint 1930s house with three rooms ($105–$150, with full breakfast); children under 12 not permitted.
On a hilltop 22-acre compound boasting its own waterfall swimming pool, the Inn at Kulaniapia Falls (www.waterfall.net; 808/935-6789) offers a choice of 10 Asian- or Hawaiian-themed rooms ($169–$299, with full breakfast) or the Pagoda Cottage (from $339 for four, with kitchen stocked with breakfast supplies). Kayaks, paddleboards, yoga, and light lunches are also available.
Note: The lodgings in this section are on the “Hilo” map on p. 207.
Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo—A DoubleTree by Hilton This 12-story, thoroughly renovated oceanfront hotel with wonderful views of Hilo Bay has declared itself “the home of hula.” Renowned photographer Kim Taylor Reese’s images of hula dancers hang on virtually every wall, high-definition video of the “Merrie Monarch” hula competition plays in the new, open-air lobby, with a central bar. Hula Hulas poolside restaurant offers locally sourced dishes, live music, and hula. The refurbished rooms (most 312–330 sq. ft.) sport marble bathrooms and floors, flatscreen TVs, and triple-sheet white bedding; some suites (660 sq. feet) include kitchenettes, while corner rooms with wrap-around lanais offer sweeping vistas. Rent a kayak or paddleboard, or book a zipline, helicopter, or volcano excursion, at the KapohoKine Adventure Store, which includes a small market. Room rates include a free round at the 9-hole Naniloa Golf Course (p. 248).
93 Banyan Dr., Hilo. www.grandnaniloahilo.com. 808/969-3333. 407 units. $134–$189 double; from $14 suite w/2 kings. Amenities: Activity desk; bar; fitness center; 9-hole golf course (free); pool; 2 restaurants; room service; free Wi-Fi.
Puna
Note: Access to these properties may be affected by the May 2018 eruptions. An unusual collection of more than 350 species of palm trees shelter the four luxurious yet off-the-grid Balinese-style bamboo cottages ($160–$220) of Kipuka in Kapoho, all of which sleep two to six, and all have access to a saline pool (http://kipuka.co; 808/339-3027). Yoga and nature lovers should investigate the variety of rustic lodgings ($95–$245) and classes at the bohemian, gay-friendly Kalani Oceanside Retreat on Highway 137 about halfway between Kapoho and Kalapana (www.kalani.com; 800/800-6886; 808/965-7828). For an enchanted setting with its own thermal pond, a short walk to the Waiopae Tidepools, book Lani Mai Honua Hale (“Heaven on Earth”), a well-furnished 3-bedroom, 2-bath home in Kapoho Vacationland (from $195; www.vrbo.com/1054676). Throughout lower Puna, be prepared for humidity and the evening symphony of coqui frogs.
In Volcano Village, the frogs don’t like the misty, cool nights at 3,700 feet; ask about heating when booking rentals in winter. Joey Gutierrez of Hawaii Volcano Vacations (www.hawaiivolcanovacations.com; 800/709-0907 or 808/967-7178) manages choice cottages and houses for $120 to $199 a night. Mahinui Na Lani (www.mahinui.com; 510/965-7367) is a romantic, eco-friendly hideaway; the whimsical two-level treehouse studio offers a kitchenette and cedar hot tub for two, with a ship’s ladder leading to a cozy sleeping loft ($295).
Note: You’ll find Mahinui Na Lani and the following accommodations on the “Hotels & Restaurants in the Volcano Area” map (p. 269).
Volcano Village
Expensive
Volcano Village Lodge Built as an artists’ retreat in 2004, the five romantic cottages in this leafy, 2-acre oasis offer gleaming hardwood floors and paneled walls, vaulted ceilings, fireplaces, kitchenettes, and endless walls of windows—the lush rainforest envelops the oh-so-peaceful lodge in privacy. Fixings for a full breakfast are left in your room each night. Enjoy the communal hot tub in the gardens after a day of hiking in the national park. For true sumptuousness or extra guests, book the two-room Mauna Loa cottage ($375), which includes a “meditation” loft under the eaves. Note: Families should also consider the lodge’s 5th Street Ohana (www.5thstohana.com; 808/985-9500). On the other side of Highway 11, this modern vacation rental offers a two-bedroom suite ($225) and a studio ($150), both with full kitchens, which can be combined as one unit ($375).
19-4183 Road E, Volcano. www.volcanovillagelodge.com. 808/985-9500. 5 units. $280–$375 double (up to 4 guests), includes full breakfast. From Hwy. 11, take Wright Rd. exit, and head .8 mile north to right on Laukapu St.; it ends at Road E. Turn left; lodge is first driveway on the left. Amenities: Hot tub; DVD library; free Wi-Fi.
Kilauea Lodge This former YMCA camp, built in 1938, has served as a gracious inn since 1986. The 10-acre main campus has 12 units in two wings and two cottages; most have gas fireplaces, along with European-Hawaiian decor and thoughtful touches such as heated towel racks. Another four cottages lie within a walk or short drive of the lodge; my favorites are the two-bedroom, two-bathroom Pii Mauna ($280), which comes with two extra sofabeds, a hot tub, and a view of the Volcano Golf Course, and the two-bedroom, one-bathroom Olaa Plantation House, an elegantly restored 1935 home with a huge kitchen, breakfast room, and living room ($305). All rates include gourmet breakfast in the superb Kilauea Lodge Restaurant (p. 284). Note: The lodge and restaurant were both for sale at press time.
19-3948 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano. www.kilauealodge.com. 808/967-7366. 12 units on main property, 4 cottages nearby. $195–$225 double room; $240–$305 cottage. Extra person $20 (ages 2 and up), includes full breakfast. From Hwy. 11, take Wright Rd. exit to 1st left at Old Volcano Rd; lodge is .1 mile on right. Amenities: Restaurant; gift shop; hot tub; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Hale Ohia Cottages Kentucky native Michael Tuttle, a former chef and historic building renovator, came across this secluded garden estate in the early 1990s and happily made this “old Volcano home.” The quiet main lodge has two units, with a connecting hallway to create a family suite if desired. I recommend one of the three unique guest cottages, each with one to three bedrooms and greater privacy. The circa-1920s Ihilani Cottage and Cottage 44, a transformed 1930s redwood water tank, have charming turret-shaped bedrooms and inviting nooks ($199). Families should consider the two-story, three-bedroom Hale Ohia, formerly the gardener’s cottage, which has one queen and three twin beds (but only one bathroom; $295). Continental breakfast is included, except at the two offsite cottages.
11-3968 Hale Ohia Rd., Volcano. www.haleohia.com. 800/455-3803 or 808/967-7986. 12 units. $129–$199 double. Extra person $20. Most rates include continental breakfast. 2-night minimum in high season. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi at main property.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Expensive
Volcano House This historic two-story wooden inn is extremely modest for its price, especially compared with Yosemite’s Ahwahnee and the grand lodges of other national parks. Still, its location on the very rim of the Kilauea Caldera is nothing short of spectacular—to wake up to that view is very special indeed. Rooms are on the small and plain side and the vintage bathrooms downright tiny, so explore your surroundings during the day and then enjoy dinner and drinks at The Rim (p. 285) or Uncle George’s Lounge downstairs, before falling into the comfy beds. Now that the crater-view rooms have risen to $335 and higher, this is a real splurge (note that ohia lehua trees may partially block the views). The hotel also manages 10 refurbished cabins and 16 campsites with rental tents inside the park; see “Camping,” below. Note: If the park is closed, the hotel and campground close as well.
1 Crater Rim Dr., Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com. 866/536-7972 or 808/756-9625. 33 units. $228–$365 double. Extra person $30. $25 park entrance fee, valid for 7 days. Check for online packages. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bicycles; gift shops; free Wi-Fi.
Kau
As with the Hamakua Coast, few visitors overnight in this virtually undeveloped area, halfway between Kailua-Kona and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, but there is one lodging that encourages guests to linger. In a tranquil setting above the road to Ka Lae (South Point), luxurious Kalaekilohana (www.kau-hawaii.com; 808/939-8052) has four large guest suites ($369) in a modern plantation-style home. After one night in a plush bed, with a beautifully presented breakfast on the lanai, and true Hawaiian hospitality from hosts Kenny Joyce and Kilohano Domingo, many guests kick themselves for not having booked a second night or more—and multi-night discounts start at $40 off a 2-night stay. Kenny’s delicious dinners ($25–$30 per person) are a nightly option.
Camping
Camping is available at 10 county beach parks, six state parks and reserves, a few private campgrounds, and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I don’t recommend most county parks, because of noise at popular sites (such as Spencer Park, p. 226) and security concerns at more remote ones (such as Punaluu Beach, p. 230), but Kohanaiki Beach Park (p. 224) is zealously well maintained. County campsites require advance-purchase permits, which cost $20 a night per person for nonresidents (http://hawaiicounty.ehawaii.gov; 808/961-8311).
State campsites also require permits that must be booked in advance (http://camping.ehawaii.gov; 808/961-9540). The most desirable are at Hapuna Beach (p. 226), which offers six A-frame screened shelters with wooden sleeping platforms and a picnic table, plus communal restrooms and cold showers. Nonresidents pay $50 per shelter per night for permits; purchase at least a month in advance. Friday through Sunday nights, Kiholo State Park Reserve (p. 222) allows tent camping in a kiawe grove on a pebbly beach, with portable toilets but no water; nonresidents pay $18 per campsite per night. For hard-core backpackers, camping in the state preserve of remote Waimanu Valley is typically the reward for tackling the extremely arduous Muliwai Trail (p. 250). Permits for nonresident campers cost $20 per site (for up to six people); you’ll also need to pay $20 per night to leave your car at Waipio Valley Artworks, due to no overnight parking at the Waipio Valley Lookout.
At South Kona’s Hookena Beach Park (p. 225), the privately run campground with local security is perfect for pitching a tent by the waves. Campsites for nonresidents cost $21 per person per night for ages 7 and older; reserve at last 72 hours in advance (www.hookena.org; 808/328-7321). You can also rent tents, camping stoves, tables, and chairs for use on-site.
In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (p. 213), two campgrounds are accessible by car. The easiest to reach and best supplied is Namakanipaio Campground , which offers 10 cabins and 16 campsites. The updated one-room cabins sleep four, with bed linens and towels provided, grills, and a community restroom with hot showers; the cost is $80 a night. Tent campers have restrooms but not showers; sites cost $15 a night, on a first-come, first-served basis, with a 7-night maximum stay. Both cabins and campsites are managed by Volcano House (p. 270; www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com; 866/536-7972 or 808/441-7750). Call the hotel in advance to rent a tent set up for you with a comfy foam mattress, linens, cooler, lantern, and two chairs for $55 a night, including the site rental. Park entrance fee of $25 is additional. Note: It can be very cool and damp here, especially at night.
Kulanaokuaiki Campground, which has nine campsites with picnic tables but no running water, is a 5-mile drive down Hilina Pali Road. It’s first-come, first-served; pay the $10 nightly fee (1-week maximum stay) at the self-registration station. Backpack camping is allowed at seven remote areas in the park (some with shelters, cabins, and water catchment tanks) but first you must register for a $10 permit, good for up to 12 people and 7 nights, at the Backcountry Office (www.nps.gov/havo; 808/985-6178), no more than 1 day in advance.
Note: No island merchants rent camping gear, but you can buy some at the Hilo Surplus Store, 148 Mamo St., Hilo (www.hilosurplusstore.com; 808/935-6398), or at a big-box store such as Kmart, 74-5456 Kamaka Eha Ave., Kailua-Kona ( 808/326-2331). Another way to go, literally, is with a fully equipped rooftop tent in a pickup truck from Huakai Campers (www.huakaicampers.com; 808/896-3158), $105 a night with 3-night minimum and pickup in Hilo. Note: Vehicle camping is allowed at county parks and the two national park campgrounds with standard camping permits.
Where to Eat on the Big Island
Thanks to its deep waters, green pastures, and fertile fields, the Big Island provides local chefs with a cornucopia of fresh ingredients. The challenge for visitors is finding restaurants to match their budgets. Don’t be afraid to nosh at a roadside stand or create a meal from a farmer’s market (see “Big Island Shopping,” p. 286), as locals do, but indulge at least once on an oceanfront sunset dinner for the best of all the Big Island has to offer. Reservations are advised during holidays and summer; OpenTable.com currently accepts bookings for 36 restaurants across the island.
The Kona Coast
Central Kailua-Kona
With few exceptions, this is a no-man’s-land for memorable, sensibly priced dining; chains abound, and service is often slow. One bright spot: Honu’s on the Beach (daily 6–10:30am and 5:30–10pm), the indoor/outdoor restaurant at the Courtyard King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel (p. 256). Fresh sushi 5:30 to 8:30pm Sunday to Thursday attracts both locals and visitors; Chef Roy Basilio’s well-prepared farm-to-table Hawaii Regional Cuisine is available nightly (main courses $15–$28), with a prime rib/seafood buffet ($50 adults, $26 ages 6–12) Friday and Saturday nights.
In a less scenic setting, duck into Lemongrass Bistro , 75-5742 Kuakini Hwy. (makai side, at Hualalai Rd), for fragrant curry and noodle dishes ($13–$25). It’s open for lunch ($10 specials) and dinner till 9pm daily (www.lemongrassbistrokona.com; 808/331-2708). Big appetites should head to the Big Island Grill , 75-5702 Kuakini Hwy. (makai side, south of Henry St.), for American fare and local favorites such as loco moco and chicken katsu ($5–$17 breakfast, $8–$20 lunch, $9–$24 dinner) in a strip mall, with parking. It’s open daily 7am to 9pm except Sunday (www.facebook.com/BigIslandGrill; 808/326-1153). Kamana Kitchen , 75-5770 Alii Dr., serves classic South Indian dishes ($13-$21) in a pleasant Waterfront Row dining room (www.kamanakitchen.com; 808/326-7888).
Gluten-free diners will want to go online to check the whereabouts of the Lotus Cafe Fresh Express food truck (www.thelotuscafe.com), which serves pan-Asian fare like Malaysian laksa ($12) in Hawi, Kailua- Waimea, Kailua-Kona, and Keauhou on a rotating schedule.
Expensive
Daylight Mind HAWAII REGIONAL Bakery, coffee bar, restaurant, coffee roaster, community center—this two-story complex with vaulted ceilings and a wraparound oceanfront lanai tries to be many things to many people, and mostly succeeds. Many of the ingredients are locally sourced, including coffee, of course. The coffee bar also serves kombucha, coffee cherry tisane, and other brews; check the bakery for fresh sourdough bread. In the restaurant, the eclectic brunch and dinner menu runs the gamut from trendily healthful (quinoa porridge with chia seed yogurt) to utterly rich (Keahole lobster BLT). A smaller branch in the Queens’ MarketPlace in the Waikoloa Beach Resort has tasty food, but service seems slower. There’s also a small bakery/deli in Kailua-Kona’s Lanihau Center; try the scones or manapua.
At rear of Waterfront Row, 75-5770 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.daylightmind.com. 808/339-7824. Coffee bar 7am–9pm daily, restaurant 8am–9pm. Also: 69-201 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa. Coffee bar 6am–9:30pm; restaurant 7am–9:30pm. Main courses $10–$19 brunch, $15–$36 dinner. Daylight Mind Bakery & Cafe, Lanihau Center, 75-5595 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona. 6am–5pm daily.
With all the fishing boats plying Kona waters, it’s no wonder places selling ahi poke—the finely diced raw tuna staple of the islands—and similar dishes pride themselves on just-caught ingredients. Fisherman Albert Vasconcelles’ Da Poke Shack (dapokeshack.com; 808/329-POKE [7653]; daily 10am–6pm) built a loyal following for its ahi poke bowls and lunch plates ($14–$22, priced by the pound) in a hole in the wall in the Kona Bali Kai complex, at 76-6246 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. Taste the wares of award-winning chef Nakoa Pabre, from poke bombs (cone sushi topped with a variety of diced seafood; $8) to bowls with quinoa or native fiddlehead fern salad as side options ($10–$13), at two sites in Kailua-Kona: the more spacious Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill , 74-5563 Kaiwi St. (www.umekesrestaurants.com; 808/238-0571; 11am–9pm Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat), sports a handsome wood and aqua interior with plenty of seating and a full bar, while Umekes in Alii Plaza, 75-143 Hualalai Rd. (www.umekesrestaurants.com; 808/329-3050), is more of a to-go joint, open 10am to 5pm Mon to Sat. The newest location, Umekes Waimea, 64-1055 Mamalahoa Hwy., at Kamamalu St., Waimea, shares the latter’s limited space and ambience, but still delicious poke; it’s open 10am to 7pm Mon to Sat.
Huggo’s PACIFIC RIM/SEAFOOD The setting doesn’t get any better in Kailua-Kona than this, a covered wooden deck overlooking tide pools and the sweep of Kailua Bay. But executive chef Albert Asuncio, a Big Island native, makes sure what’s on your plate is compelling, too, such as seared sesame ahi and chips with avocado fries, guava braised baby back rib, or ravioli of lobster, crab, and mascarpone. Huggo’s lounge, hBar , has its own chic vibe and inventive small-plates menu, as well as an artisan cocktail menu. There’s also a breakfast menu—pancakes, several varieties of eggs Benedict, breakfast pizzas, and a full bar (try the Bloody Mary)—called Huggo’s Sunnyside Up. Next door is the more casual, moderately priced On the Rocks , which serves lunch and dinner; after sunset, it’s a pulsating nightclub.
75-5828 Kahakai Rd., Kailua-Kona. www.huggos.com. 808/329-1493. Reservations recommended. Main courses $30–$40. Sun–Thurs 5–9pm, Fri–Sat 5–10pm. hBar: Mon–Thurs 4–10pm, Fri–Sat 4–midnight, Sun 5–10pm. Small plates $12–$28. Huggo’s Sunnyside Up: Main courses $12–$22. Daily 7–11am. On the Rocks: https://huggosontherocks.com. 808/329-9262. Main courses $13–$20. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–11pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight, happy hour 3–5pm.
Moderate
Island Lava Java AMERICAN Although a branch opened in Waikoloa Village in 2012, there’s no competing with the lively ambience and oceanview setting of the Kailua-Kona original. Founded in 1994, the former espresso bar blossomed into a full-service cafe for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and now has a full bar in its new, ocean-view location in the Coconut Grove Marketplace. The coffee is 100% Kona; breads, pastries, and desserts are made in house; and organic salads, sandwiches, and pizzas feature mostly local ingredients. Compared with resorts, prices are almost reasonable for the Big Island grass-fed beef burger ($15), pizzas to share ($18–$20), and Nicoise salad with fresh ahi ($23); ribeye ($37) and other meat and fresh catch entrees can add up quickly.
75-5799 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.islandlavajava.com. 808/327-2161. Main courses $8–$20 breakfast; $13–$23 lunch; $14–$37 dinner. Daily breakfast 6:30am–11:30am, lunch 11:30am–5pm, dinner 5–9:30pm. Also in the Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center, 68-1845 Waikoloa Rd., Waikoloa. 808/769-5202. Same hours and prices as Kailua-Kona location.
Mi’s Waterfront Bistro ITALIAN Chef Morgan Starr, formerly at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, is the “M” and wife Ingrid Chan is the “I” in Mi’s, which relocated in 2016 from a drab South Kona strip center to a mostly outdoor, oceanfront site more worthy of the thoughtfully created Italian fare. The menu features fresh ingredients from Starr’s own garden, local beef, handmade pasta, and off-the-hook ahi, with a well-priced menu and wine list. Porcini-crusted pork scaloppini ($27) with gnocchi comes with a velvety Hamakua mushroom sauce, while grilled rack of lamb in a Chianti demi-glaze ($39) is worth the splurge. Save some calories for a house-made dessert, such as Meyer lemon crème brûlée ($8) or white pineapple sorbet ($5). Gluten-free and vegetarian diners should note the baked polenta with sauteed vegetables and marinara on the lunch menu (served by request at dinner). Request an oceanfront table well in advance.
In Waterfront Row, 75-5770 Alii Dr., second floor, Kailua-Kona; park in underground lot. www.misitalianbistro.com. 808/329-3880. Main courses lunch $11–$16, dinner $15–$39. Lunch 12–4:30pm daily, dinner 5–9pm daily.
Father and son Cameron Healy and Spoon Khalsa opened microbrewery and pub Kona Brewing Co. (www.konabrewingco.com; 808/334-2739) in an obscure warehouse in Kailua-Kona in 1998; now they also run a restaurant on Oahu and enjoy widespread Mainland distribution of their most popular brews, including Fire Rock Pale Ale and Longboard Lager, and a new brewery is due to open in 2019. The brewpub at 74-5612 Pawai Pl. offers affordable specials at lunch and happy hour (3 to 5pm weekdays), seasonal draft brews, a palm-fringed patio, and short free tours (for ages 15 and older) at 10:30am and 3pm weekdays, with additional tours at 2pm weekends and 4pm Saturday. Open daily 11am to 10pm.
North Kona
Ulu Ocean Grill & Sushi Lounge ISLAND FARM/SEAFOOD With veteran Four Seasons executive chef Thomas Bellec at the helm, this beachfront destination restaurant remains a superb showcase for the wares of 160 local fishermen and farmers. Refined yet approachable dishes include miso-glazed kampachi with crispy bok choy and black pepper-crusted New York steak with kiawe-smoked potatoes. Jewel-like sashimi and artful sushi rolls can be ordered in the oceanview lounge (with fire pits) or the open-air dining room, behind roe-like curtains of glass balls. Ask the expert waitstaff for advice on the extensive wine list. On Saturday, sign up for the five-course, prix-fixe Oceanfront Harvest Dinner ($150) with wine pairings and a sushi reception; it’s limited to 40 guests, who meet with the chef de cuisine and dine on a private lanai. Note: The breakfast menu is also locally sourced but seems more exorbitant. During peak holiday periods, only resort guests are allowed to make reservations (always a good idea here).
At the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, 72-100 Kaupulehu Dr., Kailua-Kona (off Hwy. 19, 6 miles north of Kona airport). 808/325-8000. www.uluoceangrill.com. Reservations recommended. Breakfast buffet $30–$44; dinner main courses $32–$55. Daily 6:30–11am (buffet 6:30–10:30am) and 5:30–9pm (sushi until 10pm).
Keauhou
The newly renovated Rays on the Bay (www.raysonthebay.com; 808/930-4900) at the Sheraton Kona (p. 260) is the only waterfront option, but it’s a vibrant one, with nightly live music, great cocktails and slightly pricey but creative island cuisine (dinner mains $19-$39); valet parking is free. Keauhou Shopping Center has several more affordable options than Kenichi (www.kenichipacific.com; 808/322-6400), a stylish Asian fusion/sushi dinner spot, open daily 5 to 9:30pm. The best is Peaberry & Galette (www.peaberryandgalette.com; 808/322-6020), a small cafe with a wide selection of savory and sweet crepes ($9–$14), plus a few sandwiches, salads, and good, 100 percent Kona coffee; it’s open 7am to 5pm Monday to Saturday, 8am to 5pm Sunday.
Sam Choy’s Kai Lanai HAWAII REGIONAL The miles-long coastal views from this former Wendy’s are spectacular—if only the service and food consistently measured up. When they’re in top form, this aerie formerly run by renowned Honolulu chef Sam Choy is hard to beat. Breakfast and lunch offer hearty local dishes such as loco moco (grass-fed burger with fried egg, gravy, and rice) and beef stew. Dinner highlights include seafood laulau (i.e. in steamed ti leaves, $29) and Kona orange duck ($28). Go early for a happy-hour seat by the fire pit.
Above Keauhou Shopping Center, 78-6831 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. www.samchoyskailanai.com. 808/333-3434. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses: breakfast (available till 3pm) $10–$13; lunch $8–$15; dinner $16–$37. Weekdays 10am–9pm, weekends 8am–9pm, happy hour 3–5pm.
South Kona
For ocean views with your Kona coffee, consider two cafes on the makai side of Highway 11. The Coffee Shack , 83-5799 Mamalahoa Hwy. (between mile markers 108 and 109) in Captain Cook, serves egg dishes ($11–$16), plump sandwiches on fresh-baked bread ($13), and 8-inch pizzas ($13–$16); it’s open daily 7:30am to 3pm (www.coffeeshack.com; 808/328-9555). Italian-themed Caffe Florian serves panini ($10–$12) and other light fare; it’s open 6:30am to 4pm weekdays, 7am to 2pm Saturday, and 8am to 1pm Sunday at 81-6637 Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua (at Kee-Kee Rd.; www.caffefloriankona.com; 808/238-0861). Open for dinner only (Tues–Sat 5–9pm), the family-run Keei Cafe , 79-7511 Mamalahoa Hwy. (mauka side), Kealakekua, includes pasta, fresh fish, steak and rack of lamb ($17–$31) on its compact but diverse menu, in a pleasant dining room featuring locally made art (www.keeicafe.net; 808/322-9992); reservations suggested.
Manago Hotel Restaurant AMERICAN Like its clean but plain-spun hotel, the family-run dining room with Formica tabletops and vinyl-backed chairs has changed little over the years. Service is friendly and fairly swift, with family-style servings of rice, potato salad, and fresh vegetables accompanying hearty dishes such as the signature pork chops with gravy and grilled onions ($12), teriyaki chicken, and sautéed mahimahi, among other popular choices. Breakfast is a steal: papaya or juice, toast or rice, two eggs, breakfast meat, and coffee for $7.
At the Manago Hotel, 82-6151 Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy. 11), Captain Cook, btw. mile markers 109 and 110, makai side. www.managohotel.com/rest.html. 808/323-2642. Reservations recommended for dinner. Breakfast $5–$7, lunch and dinner $7–$19. Tues–Sun 7–9am, 11am–2pm, and 5–7:30pm.
There’s no getting around sticker shock when dining at the South Kohala resort hotels, especially at breakfast and lunch. Dazzling sunsets help soften the blow at dinner, when chefs at least show more ambition. Here’s a quick guide to help you distinguish among the top dinner-only hotel restaurants, all serving excellent (for the most part) yet costly variations on farm-to-table Hawaii Regional Cuisine:
Mauna Lani: Brown’s Beach House at the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii (p. 263) offers attentive service at tables on a lawn just a stone’s throw from the water; main courses are $35 to $54. At CanoeHouse in the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel (p. 265), Chef de Cuisine Allan Nagun presents each dish of his “Captain’s Table” Blind Tasting Menu ($110; $160 with wine pairings), offered Thursday to Saturday by 24-hour reservation ( 808/881-7911; main courses $36–$52).
Mauna Kea: Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 264) offers a sweeping ocean view, artful cuisine, and 48 high-end wines by the glass from the nifty Enomatic dispenser; main courses run $35 to $52. At press time, Westin Hapuna Beach Resort (p. 263) was revamping menus and decor at all its dining outlets, but Mediterranean-themed, hillside Meridia was expected to live up to the high standards of its previous incarnation, Coast Grille.
Waikoloa Beach: KPC–Kamuela Provision Company at the Hilton Waikoloa Village (p. 263) has the oceanfront setting to rival other resorts’ restaurants, with culinary ambitions aiming as high as its prices (main courses $42–$83) and top service. Book an outdoor table for at least a half-hour before sunset.
The Kohala Coast
Note: You’ll find the following restaurants on the “Kohala Coast, Waimea & the Hamakua Coast” map on p. 259.
South Kohala
For convenient alternatives to pricey hotel dining, the Waikoloa Beach Resort offers several hidden treasures. The Queens’ MarketPlace food court includes Lemongrass Express ( 808/886-3400), a compact version of Kailua-Kona’s tasty Lemongrass Bistro (p. 273), with indoor-outdoor seating and seafood specials that rival those of resort chefs, and Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ ( 808/886-8600), serving well-seasoned plate lunches with ribs, chicken, and fish, under the aegis of Food Network celebrity Philip “Ippy” Aiona. Aloha Wine Bar , inside Island Gourmet Markets, serves burgers, thin-crust pizzas, and sushi with good wine specials ( 808/886-3500; daily 3–midnight); happy hour runs 3 to 6pm and 10 to 11:30pm
Views of Anaehoomalu Bay, especially at sunset, never fail to please at the open-air Lava Lava Beach Club , which serves fresh American and island food from 11am to 9pm daily on the beach, with happy hour appetizer and drink specials 3 to 5pm. At lunch, main courses run $15 to $26; at dinner, they’re $19 to $37. Owned by the team behind Huggo’s (p. 274), it’s at the end of Kuualii Place in the Waikoloa Beach Resort (www.lavalavabeachclub.com; 808/769-5282).
Chef Allen Hess, formerly of CanoeHouse, serves well-crafted, farm-to-table comfort food (that is, with plenty of housemade bacon) at Mai Grille (www.maigrille.com; 808/886-7600). Overlooking the Kings’ Golf Course, it’s open for breakfast 7:30 to 10:45am Monday through Saturday, and brunch 8am to 1pm Sunday, plus lunch and pupu 11am to 6pm Monday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended for Hess’ innovative, adult-oriented “supper club” menu ($12–$29), 5 to 7pm Thursday through Saturday.
The commercial port of Kawaihae also harbors several inexpensive, homespun eateries, including Kohala Burger and Taco , upstairs in the Kawaihae Shopping Center (www.kohalaburgerandtaco.com; 808/880-1923). Its juicy burgers ($7–$8) are made with local grass-fed beef, while buns and tortillas (used for fresh fish tacos, burritos, and quesadillas) are housemade. Run by former resort chefs, it opens daily at 11am; closing hours vary widely by season. The lunch wagon next to Da Fish House fish market (p. 291) has fresh fish plates ($9–$12) but little seating; it’s open weekdays 10:30am to 2:30pm and takes cash only.
Expensive
Monstera Noodles & Sushi JAPANESE Master sushi chef Norio Yamamoto left his namesake restaurant (still called Norio’s) at the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii to open this bright, less formal dining room in the Shops at Mauna Lani. His “sizzling plates” menu includes New York strip steak in a choice of sauces, boneless fried chicken in spicy garlic-sesame sauce, and pork loin stir-fried with kimchi. Although the bill adds up quickly here, it would be a shame to skip seafood specialties like his volcano roll (a combination of spicy tuna and shrimp tempura with local avocado) or ultra-fresh, silken sashimi such as Hawaiian fatty tuna (chu toro). Downstairs is Yamamato and partner Wes Monty’s Blue Room Brasserie & Bar , a charming French/island-style bistro inspired by a room at Iolani Palace; it’s open for lunch and dinner, notably with Belgian beers on tap, an oyster bar, excellent seafood entrees, and leafy patio seating.
Monstera: The Shops at Mauna Lani, 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr., Waimea. www.monsterasushi.com. 808/887-2711. Main courses $18–$30; sushi rolls $7–$22; sashimi $17–$20. Daily 5:30–9:30pm (last seating 9pm). Blue Room: http://theblueroomhi.com. 808/887-0999. Lunch main courses $16–$20 ($42 bouillabaisse); dinner main courses, $17–$42. Daily 11:30am–10pm.
Pueo’s Osteria ITALIAN Upcountry residents and night owls flock to this rare bird of a great restaurant in Waikoloa Village, named for the native owl, but its appeal goes far beyond its location (just 8 minutes from the Waikoloa Beach Resort) and late hours. Executive chef-owner James Babian, who lined up more than 150 local food purveyors for Four Seasons Hualalai during his tenure there, still works his connections for the freshest seafood, meat, and produce, while importing only the finest of everything else (including olive oil and well-priced wines) to create a delicious Italian menu. Although some of the menu falls in the expensive category, bargains include “early owl” specials ($8, available 5–6pm) and bar menu items such as a Tuscan burger made with local beef, provolone, and bruschetta tomatoes, served with house-made fries for just $12, or build-your-own wood-fired pizzas starting at $13. Babian has a tender touch with fresh pasta, such as potato gnocchi with house fennel sausage and Hamakua mushrooms, but also adds zest to hearty dishes such as a Barolo-braised short rib and Niihau lamb osso buco. Gluten-free bread and pasta are also available.
In Waikoloa Village Highlands Center, 68-1845 Waikoloa Rd., Waikoloa. www.pueososteria.com. 808/339-7566. Main courses $20–$39; pizza $18–$24; bar menu $9–$21. Reservations recommended. Dinner daily 5–9pm. Bar 5pm–1am Mon–Sat, Sun till 10pm; bar menu Mon–Sat 5pm–midnight, Sun till 10pm. Happy hour 9:30pm–midnight.
North Kohala
For a light meal or snack, stop at Kohala Coffee Mill , 55-3412 Akoni Pule Hwy. (mauka side, across from Bamboo, discussed below; 808/889-5577). Known best for scoops of Tropical Dreams ice cream (p. 282) and well-crafted coffee drinks, it’s open weekdays 6am to 6pm, weekends 7am to 6pm. In Kapaau, homey Minnie’s Ohana Lim Style , 54-3854 Akoni Pule Hwy. (mauka side, at Kamehameha Rd.), serves heaping portions of fresh fish, roast pork, Korean fried chicken, and local staples ($9–$15; 808/889-5288; Mon–Wed 11am–7pm, Thurs–Fri 11am–3pm, and Fri 6–8pm). Close to the Pololu Valley Overlook, the solar-powered Fresh Off the Grid food truck , 52-5088 Akoni Pule Hwy., Kapaau, offers refreshing shave ice, smoothies, tropical fruit, picnic tables, and a welcome portable toilet; it’s open 11am–5pm Thursday through Tuesday.
Bamboo PACIFIC RIM Dining here is a trip, literally and figuratively. A half-hour from the nearest resort, Bamboo adds an element of time travel, with vintage decor behind the screen doors of its pale-blue, plantation-era building; an art gallery and quirky gift shop provide great browsing if you have to wait for a table. The food is well worth the wait, from local lunch faves like barbecued baby-back ribs to a veggie stir-fry of soba noodles or grilled chicken with a kicky Thai-style coconut sauce. Dinner adds more fresh-catch preparations, including a grilled filet with a tangy passionfruit mustard sauce balanced by crispy goat cheese polenta. Friday and Saturday night often have live music.
55-3415 Akoni Pule Hwy. (Hwy. 270, just west of Hwy. 250/Hawi Rd.), Hawi. www.bamboorestaurant.info. 808/889-5555. Dinner reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$20 lunch, $15–$35 dinner (full- and half-size portions available at dinner). Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–8pm; Sun brunch 11:30am–2:30pm. Happy hour Tues–Thurs 4–6pm.
Waimea
Daunted by high-priced Kohala resort menus? Visit the inexpensive Hawaiian Style Café , 65-1290 Kawaihae Rd. (Hwy. 19, 1 block east of Opelo Rd.; http://hawaiianstylecafe.us; 808/885-4925), which serves pancakes bigger than your head (try them with warm haupia, a coconut pudding), kalua pork hash, and other local favorites, along with burgers and sandwiches. It’s cash only, and very crowded on weekends (Mon–Sat 7am–1:30pm; until noon Sun). Funky Big Island Brewhaus , 64-1066 Mamalahoa Hwy. (http://bigislandbrewhaus.com; 808/887-1717), features master brewer Tom Kerns’ wide-ranging taps with an equally diverse, locally sourced menu with burgers, Mexican, and Mediterranean fare. Its covered patio and smaller indoor dining area/bar are open Monday through Saturday 11am to 8:30pm and Sunday noon to 8pm. Locals also flock to Red Water Cafe , 65-1299 Kawaihae Rd., for expert sushi ($14–$28), Waimea-grown salads ($11–$19), seafood and steak ($29–$45), and live jazz (Thurs–Sat night). It’s open 3 to 11pm daily, with early-bird specials from 3 to 5pm (www.redwatercafe.com; 808/885-9299).
Expensive
Merriman’s HAWAII REGIONAL This is where it all began in 1988 for Chef Peter Merriman, one of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine and an early adopter of the farm-to-table trend. Now head of a culinary empire with various incarnations on four islands, the busy Merriman has entrusted Chef Vince McCarthy with maintaining his high standards and inventive flair. Lunch offers better values, such as the grilled fresh fish ($18), while weekend brunch includes a luscious eggs Benedict with jalapeño hollandaise. At dinner, you can order Merriman’s famed wok-charred ahi, grass-fed steak, or molten chocolate purse with vanilla bean ice cream—but you’ll also want to consider McCarthy’s fresh-catch dish, or his family-style, four-course tasting menu for four or more ($75 per person). Cocktails show the same care in crafting.
In Opelo Plaza, 65-1227 Opelo Rd., off Hwy. 19, Waimea. www.merrimanshawaii.com. 808/885-6822. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$18 lunch, $28–$58 dinner (half-portions $23–$44). Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–1:30pm; dinner daily 5:30–9pm; Sat–Sun brunch 10am–1pm.
Village Burger BURGERS Tucked into a cowboy-themed shopping center with a drafty food court (bring a jacket or sit by the fireplace), this burger stand run by former Four Seasons Lanai chef Edwin Goto has a compact menu: plump burgers made with local grass-fed beef, grilled ahi, taro, or Hamakua mushrooms; thick, sumptuous shakes made from Tropical Dreams ice cream (p. 282); and hand-cut, twice-cooked fries. Other than that, there’s just a grilled ahi Niçoise salad featuring island greens—but it’s also delicious. A few doors down is Goto’s casual, sit-down Noodle Club , serving artfully presented interpretations of local and Asian specialties such as saimin, pork belly bao buns, pho, and ramen; the yuzu pudding cake is a melt-away marvel.
Village Burger: In the Parker Ranch Center, 67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy., Waimea. www.villageburgerwaimea.com. 808/885-7319. Burgers $8–$12. Mon–Sat 10:30am–8pm; Sun till 6pm. Noodle Club: In the Parker Ranch Center (same address). www.facebook.com/noodleclubwaimea. 808/885-8825. Main courses $10–$13. Tues–Sat 10:30am–8pm; Sun till 5pm.
The Hamakua Coast
Although dinner options are growing in Honokaa, it still pays to plan ahead, since restaurants often close early. In Honokaa, Italian bistro Café Il Mondo , 45-3880 Mamane St. (www.cafeilmondo.com; 808/775-7711), serves pizza ($13–$19), calzones ($14), and homey entrees such as roast chicken and beef lasagna at dinner ($17, including salad). It’s open Monday to Saturday, from 11am to 2pm and 5 to 8pm, with live music Thursday through Saturday. Closer to Highway 19, the iconic, counter-service Tex Drive-In & Restaurant , 45-690 Pakalana St. (www.texdriveinhawaii.com; 808/775-0598) is worth braving possible tour-bus crowds for its malasadas—large, chewy Portuguese sweet bread doughnut holes that are fried to order, dusted in sugar, and available with a filling, such as Bavarian cream, tropical jellies, or chocolate. Founded in 1969, Tex also serves breakfast, burgers, and Hawaiian plate lunches ($4–$11), but the malasadas are the real draw; open daily 6am to 8pm.
Tropical Dreams: Ice Cream Reveries |
Founded in North Kohala in 1983, ultra-rich Tropical Dreams ice cream is sold all over the island now, but you’ll find the most flavors at the retail store next to its Waimea factory, 66-1250 Lalamilo Farm Rd. (off Hwy. 19; www.tropicaldreamsicecream.com; 888/888-8031). Try the Tahitian vanilla, lychee, or poha, or sorbets like dragonfruit, passion-guava, or white pineapple ($3.50 for an 8 oz. cup—the smallest size). It’s open weekdays 9am to 5pm.
About 19 miles south, the Papaaloa Country Store & Cafe, 35-2032 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. (www.papaaloacountrystore.com; 808/339-7614), offers wonderful browsing in the 1910 plantation-era store while you wait for a home-style breakfast, burger, or plate lunch; delicious tropical pastries await in the bakery. Restaurant and bar hours are 1 to 7pm Monday through Thursday, till 8pm Friday and Saturday (store opens at 7am). It’s a short detour off Highway 11.
Note: You’ll find the three restaurants above on “The Kohala Coast, Waimea & the Hamakua Coast” map on p. 259.
Hilo
The second largest city in Hawaii hosts a raft of unpretentious eateries that reflect East Hawaii’s plantation heritage. A prime example of the former is Ken’s House of Pancakes , 1730 Kamehameha Ave., at the corner of Hwys. 19 and 11 (www.kenshouseofpancakes.com; 808/935-8711), which serves heaping helpings of local dishes, amazingly fluffy omelets, and American fare 24/7. The Hawaiian Style Café , 681 Manono St. (www.hawaiianstylecafe.com; 808/969-9265), is an outpost of the Waimea favorite (p. 281) that also has dinner hours; it’s open 7am to 2pm Tuesday through Sunday, 5 to 8:30pm Tuesday to Thursday, and 5 to 9pm Friday and Saturday. Food comes on paper plates at the venerable Café 100 (www.cafe100.com; 808/935-8683), 969 Kilauea Ave., but the price is right for more than 30 varieties of “loco moco” (meat, eggs, rice, and gravy), starting at $4, and other hearty fare. It’s open weekdays 6:45am to 8:30pm, and Saturday till 7:30pm. Miyo’s , 564 Hinano St. (www.miyosrestaurant.com; 808/935-8825), prides itself on “homestyle” Japanese cooking, with locally sourced ingredients. It’s open Monday through Saturday for lunch (11am–2pm) and dinner (5:30–8:30pm), with main courses under $20.
Make reservations for tiny Moon and Turtle , 51 Kalakaua St. ( 808/961-0599), where the fusion farm-to-table, shared-plate menu changes daily, 5:30 to 9pm Tuesday through Saturday. The new oceanfront, all-day restaurant in the Grand Naniloa Hotel (p. 268), Hula Hulas (http://hulahulashilo.com; 808/932-4545) had some service issues in its infancy, but the kitchen was starting to live up to its spectacular setting with creative local fare such as ulu (breadfruit) fries.
Note: You’ll find the following restaurants and the ones listed above on the “Hilo” map on p. 207.
Café Pesto PIZZA/PACIFIC RIM The menu of wood-fired pizzas, pastas, risottos, fresh local seafood, and artfully prepared “creative island cuisine” such as mango-glazed chicken is much the same as it was at the now-closed, original Kawaihae location, and that’s a good thing. Even better: The airy dining room in a restored 1912 building, with black-and-white tile floors and huge glass windows overlooking picturesque downtown Hilo. Service is attentive and swift, especially by island standards, but don’t shy away from the two counters with high-backed chairs if tables are full.
At the S. Hata Bldg., 308 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo. www.cafepesto.com. 808/969-6640. Reservations recommended. Pizzas $10–$21; main courses $11–$17 lunch, $19–$30 dinner. Mon–Thurs 10:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm.
Hilo Bay Café PACIFIC RIM Hilo’s most ambitious restaurant overlooks Hilo Bay, next to Suisan Fish Market and the lovely Liliuokalani Gardens. Fittingly, sushi and seafood dishes are the most reliable pleasers, including horseradish panko-crusted ono and grilled asparagus salad with pan-roasted salmon, but fresh produce from the Hilo Farmer’s Market also inspires several dishes. Vegetarians will appreciate thoughtful options such as the Hamakua mushroom curry pot-pie. The drink list is similarly wide-ranging, including locally sourced kombucha, superb cocktails, and craft beer. At lunch, ask for a seat with a bay view.
123 Lihiwai St., just north of Banyan Dr., Hilo. www.hilobaycafe.com. 808/935-4939. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $14–$30 lunch, $14–$38 dinner. Mon–Sat lunch 11am–2:30pm, limited menu 2:30–5pm, dinner 5–9pm.
Puna District
Options are limited here, so plan meals carefully and stock up on supplies in Kailua-Kona or Hilo. Note: You’ll find the following restaurants on the “Hotels & Restaurants in the Volcano Area” map (p. 269).
Volcano Village
In addition to the listings below, look for the Tuk-Tuk Thai Food truck at the Cooper Center, 19-4030 Old Volcano Rd. (www.tuk-tukthaifood.com; 808/747-3041), from 11am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday. You can even call ahead for its hearty curries and noodle dishes ($11–$14), a better value than the Thai restaurant down the road. Tiny Ohelo Café , 19-4005 Haunani Rd. (www.ohelocafe.com; 808/339-7865; daily 11:30am–3pm and 5:30–9pm), may have a casual ambience but it aims high with wood-fired pizzas ($12–$14), fresh catch ($25), pastas, and salads; reservations are recommended.
Expensive
Kilauea Lodge Restaurant CONTINENTAL Like his inn, owner-chef Albert Jeyte’s woodsy restaurant radiates Gemütlichkeit, that ineffable German sense of warmth and cheer, symbolized by the “International Fireplace of Friendship” studded with stones from around the world. Although starters can be ho-hum, the European-style main courses showcase unique meats such as rabbit, antelope, buffalo, and duck, along with local grass-fed beef and lamb, plus the fresh catch (recommended). The wine list is well priced, while lilikoi margaritas are refreshing after a long day exploring the nearby national park. Dinner prices are steep, but entrees include soup or salad; lunch offers good values, including local grass-fed beef, buffalo and antelope burgers, and a curried chicken bowl. Breakfast is another winner, especially the French toast made with Portuguese sweet bread.
19-3948 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano. www.kilauealodge.com. 808/967-7366. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$14 breakfast, $12–$17 lunch, $26–$41 dinner. Daily breakfast 7:30–10am, lunch 10am–2pm, and dinner 5–9pm; Sun brunch 10am–2pm.
Moderate
Café Ono VEGETARIAN When burgers and plate lunches start to pall, this cafe and tearoom hidden in Ira Ono’s quirky art studio/gallery provides a delectably light alternative. The vegetarian/vegan menu is concise: a soup or two, chili, lasagna, crustless quiche (highly recommended), and sandwiches, most accompanied by a garden salad. Don’t pass up the peanut butter and pumpkin soup ($9) if it’s available, and allow time to explore the lush gardens outside.
In Volcano Garden Arts, 19-3834 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano. www.cafeono.net. 808/985-8979. Reservations recommended for groups of 5 or more. Main courses $10–$15. Lunch Tues–Sun 11am–3pm, coffee/dessert menu 10am–4pm.
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
The Rim ISLAND FARM/SEAFOOD By no means is this your typical national park concession, as some hot dog–seeking visitors are discouraged to find. The Rim and the adjacent Uncle George’s Lounge try to match their premier views of Kilauea Caldera with a menu that’s both artful and hyper-local. The bountiful breakfast buffet includes made-to-order eggs and waffles, tropical fruit smoothies, and housemade granola. Bento lunch boxes ($19, available 11am to 4pm) offer a choice of kalua pork, teriyaki chicken, an organic veggie/tofu stir-fry, or macadamia-nut mahimahi, plus four tasty sides, Hilo poi, and haupia pudding. Kalua pork pizza, a local grass-fed beef burger, and coconut-crusted fish and chips are also available. Culinary highlights include pan-seared Kona kampachi, and Hilo coffee-rubbed rack of lamb. The lounge serves burgers and pupu ($13–$18) such as chicken satay and avocado dip. Note: Diners must pay park admission ($25 a vehicle, good for 7 days) to access the restaurant or lounge. It’s closed if the park is closed.
In Volcano House, 1 Crater Rim Dr., Volcano. www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com/dining. 808/930-6910. Reservations recommended. Breakfast buffet $18 adults, $9 children. Main courses: lunch $12–$19, dinner $19–$39. Daily breakfast 7–10am, lunch 11am–2pm (bento boxes till 4pm), dinner 5:30–9pm, with live music 6–8:30pm Sun, Tues–Fri. Lounge daily 11am–10pm, with live music Sat–Sun (varying hours).
Pahoa
Kaleo’s Bar & Grill ECLECTIC/LOCAL The best restaurant for miles around has a broad menu, ideal for multiple visits, and a welcoming, homey atmosphere. Local staples such as chicken katsu and spicy Korean kalbi ribs won’t disappoint, but look for dishes with slight twists, such as tempura ahi roll or the blackened-ahi BLT with avocado and mango mayo. Save room for the lilikoi cheesecake or banana spring rolls with vanilla ice cream. There’s live music nightly, too.
15-2969 Pahoa Village Rd., Pahoa. www.kaleoshawaii.com. 808/965-5600. Main courses $8–$18 lunch, $12–$32 dinner. Daily 11am–9pm.
Volcano Winery (www.volcanowinery.com; 808/967-7772) has been a unique pit stop for visitors since 1993, when it began selling traditional grape wines, honey wines, and grape wines blended with tropical fruits in a location near Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Del and Marie Bothof have owned the winery since 1999, planting Pinot Noir and Cayuga White grapes in 2000 and expanding into tea—a much better option, as recent awards show—in 2006. Wine tastings, for ages 21 and up, are $7 to $10; there’s also a picnic area under cork and koa trees. The tasting room and store, 35 Pii Mauna Dr. in Volcano (just off Hwy. 11 near the 30-mile marker), are open 10am to 5:30pm daily.
Kau District
Driving from Kailua-Kona to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, it’s good to know about two places in Naalehu for a quick pick-me-up. The Punaluu Bake Shop (www.bakeshophawaii.com; 866/366-3501 or 808/929-7343) is the busier tourist attraction, famed for its multihued varieties of sweet Portuguese bread now seen in stores across the islands; clean restrooms, a deli counter, and gift shop are also part of the appeal. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm. Across the highway, off a small lane, lies Hana Hou Restaurant (www.hanahourestaurant.com; 808/929-9717), which boasts a bakery counter with equally tempting sweets (try the macnut pie or passionfruit bar) and a retro dining room serving simple but fresh and filling plate lunches ($13–$17), burgers, sandwiches, and quesadillas; it’s open Sunday through Thursday 8am to 7pm, Friday and Saturday until 8pm.
This island is fertile ground, not just for coffee, tea, chocolate, macadamia nuts, honey, and other tasty souvenirs, but also for artists inspired by the volcanic cycle of destruction and creation, the boundless energy of the ocean, and the timeless beauty of native crafts. For those cooking meals or packing a picnic, see the “Edibles” listings.
Note: Stores are open daily unless otherwise stated.
The Kona Coast
Kailua-Kona
For bargain shopping with an island flair, bypass the T-shirt and trinket shops and head 2 miles south from Kailua Pier to Alii Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Alii Dr., a friendly, low-key combination farmer’s market, flea market, and crafts fair, with plenty of parking and tent-covered stalls (open 10am–5pm Tues–Sun). You’ll find fun items both handmade in Hawaii and manufactured in Chinese factories. Visit the Kona Natural Soap Company stand (www.konanaturalsoap.com) and learn about the ingredients grown on Greg Colden’s Keauhou farm.
In Kailua-Kona’s historic district, the funky, family-run Pacific Vibrations ( 808/329-4140) has colorful surfwear; it’s at 75-5702 Likana Lane, an alley off Alii Drive just north of Mokuaikaua Church. Across the street, the nonprofit Hulihee Palace Gift Shop stocks arts and crafts by local artists, including gorgeous feather lei, silk scarves, and woven lauhala hats (www.daughtersofhawaii.org; 808/329-6558).
Keauhou Shopping Center, above Alii Drive at King Kamehameha III Road (www.keauhouvillageshops.com), has more restaurants and services than shops, but check out Kona Stories (www.konastories.com; 808/324-0350) for thousands of books, especially Hawaiiana and children’s titles, plus toys, cards, and gifts. Also in the mall, Jams World (www.jamsworld.com; 808/322-9361) boasts colorful comfortable resort wear for men and women; the Hawaii company was founded in 1964. Hula troupes perform at 6pm Fridays on the Heritage Court Stage.
Holualoa
Charmingly rustic Holualoa, 1,400 feet and 10 minutes above Kailua-Kona at the top of Hualalai Road, is the perfect spot for visiting coffee farms (p. 191) and tasteful galleries, with a half-dozen or more within a short distance of each other on Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 180). Most galleries are closed Sunday and Monday; see www.holualoahawaii.com for listings. Among them, Studio 7 Fine Arts (www.studio7hawaii.com; 808/324-1335) is a virtual Zen garden with pottery, wall hangings, and paper collages by Setsuko Morinoue, as well as paintings and prints by husband Hiroki.
Revel in the Hawaiian art of weaving leaves (lau) from the pandanus tree (hala) at Kimura’s Lauhala Shop, farther south on the makai side of Mamalahoa Hwy., at 77-996 Hualalai Rd. ( 808/324-0053). Founded in 1914, the store brims with locally woven mats, hats, handbags, and slippers, plus Kona coffee, koa wood bowls, and feather hatbands. It’s closed Sunday.
South Kona
Many stores along Highway 11, the main road, are roadside fruit and/or coffee stands, well worth pulling over for, if only to “talk story” and pick up a snack. Fabric aficionados must stop at Kimura Store, a quaint general store and textile emporium with more than 10,000 bolts of aloha prints and other colorful cloth, at 79-7408 Mamalahoa Hwy. (makai side), Kainaliu ( 808/322-3771; closed Sun).
South Kohala
Three open-air shopping malls claim the bulk of stores here, hosting a few island-only boutiques amid state and national chains. The real plus is the malls’ free entertainment (check their websites for current calendars) and prices somewhat lower than those of shops in resort hotels.
The Waikoloa Beach Resort has two malls, both off its main drag, Waikoloa Beach Road. Kings’ Shops (www.kingsshops.com) has a keiki (children’s) hula performance at 6pm most Fridays and live music at 5 or 6pm Monday to Thursday. Along with luxury stores such as Tiffany & Co. and Michael Kors, you’ll find affordable swimwear at Making Waves ( 808/886-1814) and batik-print fashions at Noa Noa ( 808/886-5449). Across the road, the shops at Queens’ MarketPlace (http://queensmarketplace.net) include the Hawaiian Quilt Collection ( 808/886-0494), which also offers purses, placemats, and pottery with the distinctive quilt patterns of the islands; Mahina (http://shopmahina.com; 808/886-4000), known for casual chic women’s apparel; and other island style-setters such as Volcom, Reyn’s, and Local Motion. Free shows include hula and Polynesian dance 6pm Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
In the Shops at Mauna Lani (www.shopsatmaunalani.com), on the main road of the Mauna Lani Resort, Hawaiian Island Creations (www.hicsurf.com; 808/881-1400) stands out for its diverse lineup of local, state, and national surfwear brands. Look for hula and Polynesian fire dancing at the shops on Monday and Thursday at 7pm.
In Kawaihae, an unassuming shopping strip on Highway 270, just north of Highway 19, hosts Harbor Gallery (www.harborgallery.biz; 808/882-1510). Browse the works of more than 150 Big Island artists, specializing in koa and other wood furniture, bowls, and sculpture; Sew Da Kine cork purses are an easy-to-pack item. Stock up on savory souvenirs at Hamakua Macadamia Nut Factory (p. 193).
North Kohala
When making the trek to the Pololu Valley Lookout, you’ll pass a few stores of note along Highway 270. As Hawi Turns, 2 miles west of the Kohala Mountain Road (Hwy. 250), features eclectic women’s clothing, locally made jewelry, home decor, and a consignment area cheekily called As Hawi Returns ( 808/889-5203). Across from the King Kamehameha Statue in Kapaau, Ackerman Gallery features Big Island arts and crafts (including paintings by owner Gary Ackerman), colorful clothing, and gifts (www.ackermanhawaii.com; 808/889-5138).
Waimea
The barn-red buildings of Parker Square, on the south side of Highway 19 east of Opelo Road, hold several pleasant surprises. The Gallery of Great Things (www.galleryofgreatthingshawaii.com; 808/885-7706) has high-quality Hawaiian artwork, including quilts and Niihau shell leis, as well as pieces from throughout the Pacific. Bentley’s Home & Garden Collection (www.bentleyshomecollection.com; 808/885-5565) is chock-full of Western and country-inspired clothes, accessories, and cottage decor.
East Hawaii
Hamakua Coast
Park on Mamane Street (Hwy. 240) in “downtown” Honokaa and peruse the mom-and-pop shops, such as the Green Chair ( 808/747-4046; closed Sun), which includes collectibles and thrift clothing among brightly hued vintage furnishings and small gifts. If you’d like something newer, head to Big Island Grown, selling edibles such as coffee, tea, and honey, plus locally made gifts and clothing ( 808/775-9777; closed Sun), or Taro Patch Gifts (www.taropatchgifts.com; 808/775-7228), which adds books and international goodies to the mix. Waipio Valley Artworks (www.waipiovalleyartworks.com; 808/775-0958), on Kukuihaele Road near the overlook, offers handsome wood items, ceramics, prints, and more, plus a simple cafe.
Hilo
The second-largest city in Hawaii has both mom-and-pop shops and big-box stores. The Hilo Farmer’s Market is the prime attraction (see “A Feast for the Senses,” below), but you should also hit the following for omiyage, or edible souvenirs: Big Island Candies, 585 Hinano St. (www.bigislandcandies.com; 808/935-5510), and Two Ladies Kitchen, 274 Kilauea Ave. ( 808/961-4766). Big Island Candies is a busy tourist attraction that cranks out addictive macadamia-nut shortbread cookies. A cash-only, hole-in-the-wall that’s closed Sunday and Monday, Two Ladies Kitchen makes delicious mochi, a sticky rice-flour treat with a filling of sweet bean paste, peanut butter or a giant strawberry, and manju, a kind of mini-turnover.
Visit Sig Zane Designs, 122 Kamehameha Ave. (www.sigzane.com; 808/935-7077, closed Sun), for apparel and home items with Zane’s fabric designs, inspired by native Hawaiian plants and culture, including wife Nalani Kanakaole’s hula lineage. Basically Books, 1672 Kamehameha Ave. (www.basicallybooks.com; 808/961-0144), has a wide assortment of maps and books emphasizing Hawaii and the Pacific.
Puna District
One of the prettiest places to visit in Volcano Village is Volcano Garden Arts, 19-3834 Old Volcano Rd. (www.volcanogardenarts.com; 808/985-8979; closed Mon), offering beautiful gardens with sculptures and open studios; delicious Café Ono (p. 285); and an airy gallery of artworks (some by owner Ira Ono), jewelry, and home decor by local artists. Look for Hawaiian quilts and fabrics, as well as island-made butters and jellies, at Kilauea Kreations, 19-3972 Old Volcano Rd. (www.kilaueakreations.com; 808/967-8090).
You can’t beat the Hilo Farmer’s Market (www.hilofarmersmarket.com), considered by many the best in the state, from its dazzling display of tropical fruits and flowers (especially orchids) to savory prepared foods such as pad Thai and bento boxes, plus locally made crafts and baked goods, all in stalls pleasantly crammed around the corner of Kamehameha Avenue and Mamo Street. The full version with 200-plus farmers and artisans takes place 6am to 4pm Wednesday and Saturday; go early for the best selection. (About 30 vendors set up from 7am–4pm the rest of the week, but it’s not quite the same experience.)
In Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the two gift shops at Volcano House (p. 270) stock tasteful gifts, many made on the Big Island, as well as attractive jackets for chilly nights. The original 1877 Volcano House, a short walk from the Kilauea Visitor Center, is home to the nonprofit Volcano Art Center (www.volcanoartcenter.org; 808/967-7565), which sells locally made artworks, including the intricate, iconic prints of Dietrich Varez, who worked at the modern Volcano House in his youth.
Edibles
Since most visitors stay on the island’s west side, the Hilo Farmer’s Market isn’t really an option to stock their larders. The Keauhou Farmer’s Market (www.keauhoufarmersmarket.com), held from 8am to noon Saturday at the Keauhou Shopping Center (near Ace Hardware), can supply locally grown produce, fresh eggs, baked goods, coffee, and flowers. Pick up the rest of what you need at the center’s KTA Super Stores (www.ktasuperstores.com; 808/323-2311), a Big Island grocery chain, founded in 1916, at which you can find island-made specialties (poke, mochi) as well as national brands. Another KTA is in the Kona Coast Shopping Center, 74-5588 Palani Rd. ( 808/329-1677), open daily until 11pm. Wine aficionados will be amazed at the large and well-priced selection in Kona Wine Market, now near Home Depot at 73-5613 Olowalu St. (www.konawinemarket.com; 808/329-9400). For Costco members, its local warehouse is at 73-4800 Maiau St., near Highway 19 and Hina Lani Street ( 808/331-4800).
On the Kohala Coast, the best prices are in Waimea, home to a KTA in Waimea Center, Highway 19 at Pulalani Road ( 808/885-8866). Buy smoked meat and fish, hot malasadas (doughnut holes), baked goods, and a cornucopia of produce at the Waimea Homestead Farmer’s Market, Saturday 7am to noon behind the post office at 67-1229 Mamalahoa Hwy. (www.waimeafarmersmarket.com). The best deals for fresh fish are at Da Fish House, 61-3665 Akoni Pule Hwy. (Hwy. 270) in Kawaihae ( 808/882-1052; closed Sun). Among resort options, Foodland Farms in the Shops at Mauna Lani (www.foodland.com; 808/887-6101), has top-quality local produce and seafood, while the Kings’ Shops hosts a decent farmer’s market Wednesday 8:30am to 3pm. Island Gourmet Markets (www.islandgourmethawaii.com; 808/886-3577), centerpiece of the Queens’ MarketPlace, has an almost overwhelming array of delicacies, including 200-plus kinds of cheese.
With few exceptions, the Big Island tucks in early, all the better to rise at daybreak, when the weather is cool and the roads (and waves) are open. But live Hawaiian music is everywhere, and it’s easy to catch free, engaging hula shows, too, at several open-air resort malls (see “Big Island Shopping,” p. 286).
Kailua-Kona
When the sun goes down, the scene heats up. Among the hot spots: Gertrude’s Jazz Bar, 75-5699 Alii Dr., pairs tapas with live jazz, Hawaiian swing, Latin dance and more, 6 to 9pm Tuesday to Saturday and 4 to 7pm Sunday (https://gertrudesjazzbar.com; 808/327-5299). On the Rocks, next to Huggo’s restaurant (p. 274) at 75-5824 Kahakai Rd. (www.huggosontherocks.com; 808/329-1493), has Hawaiian music and hula nightly, from 6 to 10pm (until 11pm Fri–Sat). Inside Huggo’s, the stylish, oceanview hBar (www.huggos.com/hbar) offers the area’s best artisanal cocktails; it’s open till midnight Friday and Saturday, with live music 7:30 to 10:30pm.
Farther afield, Rays on the Bay, at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa (p. 260), lures locals and visitors to Keauhou with fire pits, a great happy hour, nightly live music, and free parking. The motto of the lively, gay-friendly MyBar, 74-5606 Luhia St., a block makai of Highway 19 (www.mybarkona.com; 808/331-8789), is “We accept everyone as long as you want to have fun.” It has darts, drag nights, and $6 cocktails.
Sharing Stories & Aloha Under the Stars |
Twilight at Kalahuipuaa, a monthly Hawaiian-style celebration, takes place on the lawn in front of the oceanside Eva Parker Woods Cottage on the Mauna Lani Resort (www.maunalani.com/about/big-island-hawaii-events; 808/881-7911). On the Saturday closest to the full moon, revered entertainers and local elders gather to “talk story,” play music, and dance hula. The 3-hour show starts at 5:30pm, but the audience starts arriving an hour earlier, with picnic fare and beach mats. Bring yours, and plan to share food as well as the fun. Parking is free, too.
luaus’ new taste of Old Hawaii
You may never have a truly great meal at a luau, but on the Big Island you can have a very good one, with a highly enjoyable—and educational—show to boot. Buffets offer more intriguing, tasty items such as pohole ferns and Molokai sweet potatoes, while shows feature more local history, from the first voyagers to paniolo days, plus spectacular fire knife and Polynesian dance. Try one of these oceanfront affairs:
Haleo (www.haleoluau.com) at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa (p. 260) is simply the best in Kailua-Kona (Mon and Fri 4:30pm; $95 adults, $45 children 6–12).
Hawaii Loa (www.gatheringofthekings.com) at the Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii (p. 263), has the best selection of island-style food, including the taro leaf stew that gave lū‘au its name (Sat 5:30pm; $115 adults, $79 children 6–12).
Legends of Hawaii (www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com/resort-experiences) at Hilton Waikoloa Village (p. 263) is the most family-friendly, with pillow seating upfront for kids (Tues, Fri, and Sun 5:30pm; $128 adults, $70 children 5–12; free for children 4 and under). Add VIP options for $29 more per person.
The Kohala Coast
All the resorts have at least one lounge with nightly live music, usually Hawaiian, often with hula. Members of the renowned Lim Family perform at varying times and venues in the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (p. 265), while award-winning singer Darlene Ahuna typically sings from 5 to 8pm Tuesday to Thursday at the Westin Hapuna Beach (p. 263). Enjoy creative cocktails and choice small plates with nightly music and hula at the chic Copper Bar at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 264). The lively Lava Lava Beach Club (p. 262) offers nightly music and hula on the sands of Waikoloa Beach Resort, where the three-screen Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas includes a restaurant, bar, and leather loveseats (http://hawaiicinemas.com).
For a uniquely Big Island alternative to a luau, try An Evening at Kahua Ranch (www.kahuaranch.com; 808/882-7954), a barbecue with beer and wine, line dancing, rope tricks, live country music, campfire sing-along, and stargazing. The 3-hour event costs $139 for adults and $70 for kids 6 to 12 (5 and younger free) with shuttle to the ranch; drive yourself and it’s $115 and $58, respectively. Festivities start at 6pm Wednesday in summer, 5:30pm in winter; call to check for additional evenings.
Hilo & the Hamakua Coast
Opened in 1925, the neoclassical Palace Theater, 38 Haili St., Hilo (www.hilopalace.com; 808/934-7010), screens first-run independent movies and hosts concerts, festivals, hula, and theater to pay for its ongoing restoration. Hilo Town Tavern, 168 Keawe St. ( 808/935-2171), is a Cajun restaurant and dive bar open until 2am daily, with a pool room and live music ranging from hip-hop to Hawaiian. The Grand Naniloa Hotel (p. 268) offers nightly live music 6 to 8pm in either its Hula Lounge lobby bar or poolside restaurant Hula Hulas. Quaint Honokaa boasts the island’s largest theater, the restored 1930 People’s Theatre, 45-3574 Mamane St., seating 525 for first-run movies, concerts, and other events. The town also holds a festival the first Friday of each month, with sidewalk vendors and live music from 5 until 9pm.
Puna District
Although the revered founder of Uncle Robert’s Awa Club ( 808/443-6913) passed away in 2015, the bustling Wednesday-night marketplace (5–10pm) continues at Robert Keliihoomalu’s Kalapana compound with live music from 6 to 9pm, provided lava isn’t flowing nearby. Sample the mildly intoxicating ’awa (the Hawaiian word for kava) at the tiki bar, or come back Friday at 6pm for more live music. In Pahoa, Kaleo’s Bar & Grill (p. 285) offers nightly live music, including jazz and slack key.
