Molokai coastline
“Don’t try to change Molokai. Let Molokai change you.” That’s the mantra on this least developed of the major Hawaiian Islands. No luxury hotels, no stoplights, and “no rush” are points of pride for locals, nearly half of whom are of Native Hawaiian descent. The island welcomes adventure travelers, spiritual pilgrims, and all who appreciate its untrammeled beauty and unhurried ways.
Known as “the child of the moon” in Native Hawaiian lore, Molokai remains a place apart, luminous yet largely inaccessible to the casual visitor. Tourism, and modern conveniences in general, have only a small footprint here, and although the island is just 38 miles long by 10 miles wide, it takes time to see what it has to offer. As the sign at the airport reads: aloha, slow down, this is molokai.
Patience and planning reward travelers with a compass of superlatives. The world’s tallest sea cliffs stand on the North Shore; on the South Shore, historic fishponds line the state’s longest fringing reef. The island’s most ancient settlement sits within gorgeous Halawa Valley on the East End, while the West End offers one of the most impressive stretches of golden sand in Hawaii, the more than 2-mile-long (and often empty) Papohaku.
The percentage of people of Native Hawaiian decent is also higher on Molokai than on the other major islands. Many have maintained or revived Hawaiian traditions such as growing taro, managing fishponds, and staging games for Makahiki, the winter festival. “Sustainability” isn’t a buzzword here but a way of life, and one that eyes modern innovations with caution—many islanders are fiercely opposed to growth.
Residents and visitors alike take inspiration from the stories of Father Damien and others who cared for the suffering exiles of Kalaupapa. Once a natural prison for those diagnosed with leprosy, the remote North Shore peninsula is now a national historical park with very limited access but profound appeal—much like Molokai itself.
Arriving
By Plane Unless you’re flying to the island as part of a Kalaupapa charter tour, you’ll arrive in Hoolehua (airport code: MKK), which many just call the Molokai Airport. It’s about 7½ miles from the center of Kaunakakai town. Note: Make sure to book your flight for daylight hours and get a window seat. The views of Molokai from above are outstanding, no matter which way you approach the island.
Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 
800/367-5320) services Molokai with its subsidiary, Ohana by Hawaiian. The twin-engine turboprops feature splashy designs by Sig Zane and carry 48 passengers. Multiple direct flights travel daily to Hoolehua from Honolulu, Oahu and Kahului, Maui. A single direct flight leaves each morning from Lanai.
The visuals are doubly impressive from the single-engine, nine-seat aircraft of Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-7070 or 808/270-8767 outside the U.S.), which provides nonstop service from Honolulu, with most flights on Wednesday and Saturday. Mokulele also flies to Molokai nonstop from three airports on Maui (Kahului, Kapalua, and Hana) and two airports on Hawaii Island (Kona and Kamuela). Note: At check-in, you’ll be asked to stand on a scale with any carry-on luggage. Only the agent is able to see the results, but those who weigh more than 350 pounds are not allowed to fly. Keep your shoes on—there are no security screenings.
Makani Kai Air (www.makanikaiair.com; 808/834-1111) also flies nine-seaters to Molokai from Oahu and Maui for a flat fee of $50. In addition, the small airline offers tour packages to Kalaupapa National Historical Park from Honolulu and Kahului. Flights are met by Damien Tours—the only way visitors, who must be at least 16 years old, are allowed inside the national historical park. Don’t book Kalaupapa flights independently. See page 442.
Note: Important to consider if you’re booking connecting flights: On Oahu, Makani Air departs from a private terminal on the perimeter of the Honolulu airport. Mokulele operates from the commuter terminal and Ohana by Hawaiian from the interisland terminal. On Maui and Hawaii Island, Makani Air and Mokulele both depart from small commuter terminals walking distance from the main airports. The Maui commuter terminal has its own convenient parking lot.
Visitor Information
Molokai Visitors Association (www.gohawaii.com/molokai; 800/800-6367 from the U.S. mainland and Canada, or 808/553-3876) offers a wealth of practical tips and cultural insights on its website, and encourages first-time visitors in particular to stop by its office in Kaunakakai for sightseeing advice tailored to current conditions as well as personal preferences. Open weekdays from 9am until noon, the bureau is in the Moore Center, 2 Kamoi St. (just off Hwy. 450), next to the office of the Molokai Dispatch (www.themolokaidispatch.com), the island’s weekly newspaper. Browse the paper online before you arrive to familiarize yourself with local issues and special events, and pick up a free copy, published Wednesdays, for the island’s current dining specials and entertainment. Some of the practical information on VisitMolokai.com (slogan: “everything about molokai, by folks who live on molokai”) is outdated, but the website still has a useful events calendar, sightseeing tips, photos, and insights. These sources all maintain Facebook pages, too.
The Island in Brief
Kaunakakai 
This central, usually sunny town on the south side is the island’s closest approximation to a downtown. Nearly every restaurant, store, and community facility on the island lies within a few blocks of one another. You’ll find a public library with a great Hawaiian history section, two gas stations, and Friendly’s Market, where aloha spirit is required for entry—according to a note taped to the front door. The state’s longest pier serves fishing boats, outrigger canoes, and kids enjoying a dip in the ocean. Other than Saturday mornings, when it seems as if the entire island (pop. 7,400) turns out for the farmer’s market, it’s easy to find a parking space among the pickup trucks.
Central Uplands & North Shore 
Upland from Kaunakakai, Hawaiian homesteaders in Hoolehua tend small plots near the state’s largest producer of organic papaya and the main airport. In the nearby plantation town of Kualapuu, the smell of Coffees of Hawaii’s roasting beans perks up hikers returning from Kalaupapa National Historical Park 
on the North Shore’s isolated peninsula, where generations of people diagnosed with leprosy (now called Hansen’s disease) were exiled. The forest grows denser and the air cooler as Kalae Highway (Hwy. 470) passes the island’s lone golf course and ends at Palaau State Park , known for its phallic rock and dramatic overlook of Kalaupapa, some 1,700 feet below. To the east stand the world’s tallest sea cliffs, 3,600 to 3,900 feet, which bracket the North Shore’s cascading waterfalls, lush valleys, and dramatic islets, all virtually inaccessible. Fishing charters, helicopter tours from Maui, and, in summer, a strenuous kayak trip can bring them within closer view.
The West End
Molokai Ranch (www.molokairanch.com) owns most of the rugged, often arid West End of the island, famous for the nearly 3-mile-long Papohaku Beach —and not much else since the ranch shut down in 2008, closing its lodge, beach camp, movie theater, and golf course, among other facilities. The plantation-era village of Maunaloa at the end of the Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) remains a virtual ghost town, and the decaying buildings of Kaluakoi Hotel (closed in 2001), above Kepuhi Beach , look like a set from Lost. Summer is the best time to explore the shoreline here, although the crash of winter waves provides a convenient sleep aid for inhabitants of the three still-open condo developments on the overgrown Kaluakoi resort. Look out for axis deer when driving here at night; wild turkeys rule the roost by day.
The East End
From Kaunakakai, the two-lane King Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450) heads 27 miles east past coastal fishponds and sculpted hillsides to Halawa Valley. This stunning, culturally significant enclave is only accessible by guided tour, though anyone may drive to the road’s end and explore Halawa Beach Park . Before the road makes its final dip to the valley, pull over for a distant view of 500-foot Hipuapua Falls and 250-foot, two-tiered Mooula Falls (also known as Moaula Falls). Before you arrive, though, you’ll pass pocket beaches, a mom-and-pop grocery/take-out counter, two churches built by Father Damien, and picturesque Puu O Hoku, a working cattle ranch and biodynamic farm that also serves as a reserve for nene, the endangered state bird. Stop here for local honey and fresh produce. This is the rainier half of the island, with more frequent showers January through March, but be careful: The sun still blazes here, too.
Halawa Valley
Getting around Molokai isn’t easy without a rental car, which you should reserve as early as possible. During special events and holiday weekends (see “When to Go” in chapter 3), rental agencies run out of vehicles. Stay alert to invasive axis deer darting onto the highway, especially at night.
By Car The international chain Alamo Rent a Car (www.alamo.com; 888/826-6893) has both an office and cars at the airport in Hoolehua. The office of Molokai Car Rental (www.molokaicars.com; 808/336-0670) may be in Kaunakakai, where owner Amanda Schonely also sells her unique shell-decorated caps and island jewelry, but she’s happy to leave a serviceable car (or minivan) for you at the airport or ferry dock, with the keys inside. If you’re renting for a week or longer, consider reserving a lightly used but perfectly adequate car, van, or SUV from Mobettah Car Rentals (www.mobettahcarrentals.com; 808/308-9566). The company will drop vehicles at the airport, or you can pick up your rental at its office 2 miles west on the Maunaloa Highway.
By Taxi Per state law, taxis charge $3 a mile plus a “drop charge” of $3.50, or about $32 from the airport to the Hotel Molokai in Kaunakakai and $42 to a West End condo. Try to arrange rides a day or two in advance, either with the friendly folks at Hele Mai Taxi (www.molokaitaxi.com; 808/336-0967) or Midnight Taxi ( 808/658-1410).
By Bus The nonprofit Maui Economic Opportunity, Inc. (www.meoinc.org; 808/877-7651) provides free daytime shuttle bus service between Kaunakakai and the East End, Hoolehua/Kualapuu, and Maunaloa/Kaluakoi, running six times daily Monday to Friday and once on Saturdays. It’s designed for rural residents but open to all; if you’re feeling adventurous, check out the online schedule (click “Programs & Services,” and then follow the drop-down links, starting with “Transportation”).
Note: All addresses are in Kaunakakai unless otherwise noted.
ATMs/Banks Both Bank of Hawaii, 20 Ala Malama Ave. (www.boh.com; 808/553-3273), and American Savings Bank, 40 Ala Malama Ave. (www.asbhawaii.com; 808/553-8391), have 24-hour ATMs.
Cellphones Good luck getting service here. The island has a few cellphone towers, but the signal is weak island-wide.
Dentists/Doctors The Molokai Community Health Center, 30 Oki Place (www.molokaichc.org; 808/553-5038), provides dental and medical services from 8am to 5pm weekdays.
Emergencies Call 911 in life-threatening circumstances. Otherwise, contact the police at 808/553-5355 or the fire department at 808/553-5601.
Hospital Molokai General Hospital, 280 Homeolu Place (www.molokaigeneralhospital.org; 808/553-5331), has 15 beds, a 24-hour emergency room open daily, and an outpatient clinic open 7am to 6pm weekdays.
Internet Access Molokai Public Library, 15 Ala Malama Ave. (www.librarieshawaii.org; 808/553-1765) offers free Wi-Fi and computers by reservation. Hotel Molokai and several restaurants also offer free, semi-reliable Wi-Fi.
Pharmacy The family-run Molokai Drugs, 28 Kamoi St. (www.molokaidrugs.com; 808/553-5790), carries everything from greeting cards to hospital-grade equipment and is open 8:45am to 5:45pm Monday to Friday, 8am to 2pm Saturday.
Post Office The central office at 120 Ala Malama Ave. is open Monday to Friday 9am to 3:30pm and Saturday 9 to 11am. The Hoolehua branch, just off Farrington Avenue (Hwy. 480) at 69-2 Puupeelua Ave., offers the popular “Post-a-Nut” service (p. 439); it’s open weekdays 8:30am to noon and 12:30 to 4pm.
Note: You’ll find the following attractions on the “Molokai” map on p. 433.
Attractions & Points of Interest
Most of Molokai’s attractions are of the natural variety, but a few manmade sights are worth adding to your itinerary. For the quaint churches related to St. Damien, see “The Saints of Molokai,” p. 433.
Kaunakakai
Molokai Plumerias 
FARM Hundreds of plumeria trees produce fragrant yellow, pink and scarlet blooms virtually year-round here, just off the main highway between the airport and town. Drop in to purchase lei or make a weekday appointment for an informative blossom-gathering tour that ends with a lesson on how to string your own lei. The perfume is intoxicating.
1342 Maunaloa Hwy. (Hwy. 460), 2½ miles west of Kaunakakai. www.molokaiplumerias.com. 
808/553-3391. Tours $25 (Mon–Fri by appointment).
Central Uplands & North Shore
Akaula Cat Garden 
ANIMAL SHELTER You’re bound to see homeless (not necessarily feral) cats on the island, but thanks to this indoor-outdoor shelter—the only animal sanctuary on the island, and welcoming to visitors—more of the island’s felines stand a chance of finding homes. Founder Carol Gartland enlists the help of students at neighboring Akaula School to care for the cats, and will even pay the costs of flying a kitty home with you, should you be so smitten.
Next to Akaula School, 900 Kalae Hwy. (Hwy. 470), just south of Farrington Rd., Kualapuu. www.akaulacatgarden.com. 808/658-0398. Open by appointment.
“There are things on Molokai, sacred things, that you may not be able to see or hear, but they are there,” says Pilipo Solatorio, who was born and raised in Halawa Valley. “As Hawaiians, we respect these things.”
Solatorio and his family are among the few who allow visitors into the emerald East End valley, offering cultural waterfall tours 
Monday to Saturday by reservation only. After welcoming visitors with traditional chants and the sharing of inhaled breath, foreheads pressed together, “Uncle” Pilipo relates the history of the area before son Greg guides the group along the rocky trail, which crosses two shallow streams. Greg also notes ancient sites, taro terraces, and native and invasive species along the path (1.7 miles each way). If conditions permit, visitors may swim in the pool below the 250-foot, double-tiered Mooula Falls, which the Solatorios explain is named after its legendary resident mo‘o, or lizard.
Uncle Pilipo, who can recall the 1946 tsunami that barreled into the ancient settlement when he was 6 years old, feels that learning about the history and culture of Molokai is part of the secret to appreciating the island. “To see the real Molokai, you need to understand and know things so that you are pono, you are right with the land, and don’t disrespect the culture,” he says.
Leave a phone message for the Solatorios (www.halawavalleymolokai.com; 
808/542-1855), giving your name, telephone number, the number of people in your party (minimum of two), and requested date of visit; the cash-only price is $60 adults, $35 children. Wear a swimsuit under your clothes and wear shoes that can get wet; bring a backpack with insect repellent, sunscreen, water, a rain poncho, a towel, lunch, and a camera.
Coffees of Hawaii FARM Molokai’s main coffee farm features a gift shop where you can buy bags (and cups) of Muleskinner coffee, coffee-related souvenirs and upscale local art. But the real attraction? The twice-weekly morning jam sessions held on the building’s wide front porch. Every Tuesday and Friday from 10am to noon, visiting musicians (some of the best in Hawaii) join kū puna (seniors) in unrehearsed but stellar performances.
1630 Farrington Ave. (Hwy. 480), off Hwy. 470, Kualapuu. www.coffeesofhawaii.com. 877/322-3276 or 808/567-9490.
Molokai Museum and Cultural Center MUSEUM/HISTORIC SITE Halfway between Coffees of Hawaii and the Kalaupapa Overlook, this small museum on the site of a restored sugar mill has a large gift shop of local arts and crafts (look for lilikoi butter) and eclectic exhibits from petroglyphs to plantation-era furnishings. Lining the walls are the poignant portraits of Kalaupapa residents, including a granddaughter of mill founder Rudolph W. Meyer, a German surveyor who married Kalama, a Hawaiian chiefess. Kalaupapa’s historic buildings are the subject of one of two 10-minute videos shown on a TV; the other focuses on the ingenuity of the mill, built in 1878. Walk a few yards uphill from the museum (the Meyers’ former home) to see the barnlike mill and outdoor pit where circling mules once powered cane-crushing machinery.
West side of Kalae Hwy. (Hwy. 470), near mile marker 4 (just past turnoff for the Ironwood Hills Golf Course), Kalae. $5 adults, $1 children and students. Mon–Sat 10am–2pm. 808/567-6436.
Post-a-Nut ICON Molokai postmaster Gary Lam will help you say “Aloha” with a Molokai coconut. Just write a message on the coconut with a felt-tip pen, and he’ll send it via U.S. mail. Coconuts are free, but postage averages $12 to $20 for a smaller, Mainland-bound coconut. Gary mails out about 3,000 per year, usually decorated with colorful stamps.
Hoolehua Post Office, 69-2 Puupeelua Ave. (Hwy. 480), near Maunaloa Hwy. (Hwy. 460). 808/567-6144. Mon–Fri 8:30am–noon and 12:30–4:30pm.
Purdy’s All-Natural Macadamia Nut Farm FARM Hawaiian homesteaders Kammy and Tuddie Purdy offer free tours in the shade of their 100-year-old macadamia nut orchard. Tuddie is a wealth of information and aloha. After an educational spin around the family farm, he’ll ply you with samples of delicious nuts—raw, salted, or air-dried—and macadamia blossom honey. Whatever you can’t stuff in your suitcase can be shipped home.
4 Lihi Pali Ave., above Molokai High School, Hoolehua. www.molokai-aloha.com/macnuts. 808/567-6601. Mon–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm and Sat 10am–2pm, Sun and holidays by appointment.
Post-a-Nut
East End
Ancient Fishponds HISTORIC SITE The rock walls of dozens of ancient fishponds—a pinnacle of Pacific aquaculture—can be seen for miles along the shoreline from the highway between Kaunakakai and the East End. The U-shaped lava rock and coral walls contain mākaha (sluice gates) that allowed smaller fish to enter, but trapped them as they grew larger. Some are still in use today; join volunteers with Ka Honua Momona (www.kahonuamomona.org; 808/553-8353) in restoring the 15th-century Alii Fishpond, a half-mile west of One Alii Beach Park (p. 445) and once reserved for kings, and Kalokoeli Pond, another 3½ miles east, generally on the third Saturday of each month.
Parks & Preserves
For information on the relatively inaccessible Kamakou and Moomomi preserves, managed by the Nature Conservancy, see “Fragile Beauties,” p. 450.
Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove HISTORIC SITE Planted in the 1860s by King Kamehameha V (born Prince of Kapuaiwa), this royal grove of 1,000 coconut trees (some sadly now frondless) on 10 oceanfront acres is off-limits to visitors, for safety and preservation reasons, but still presents a side-of-the-road photo op. Across the highway stands Church Row: seven churches, each of a different denomination—clear evidence of the missionary impact on Hawaii.
Ocean side of Maunaloa Hwy. (Hwy. 460), 1 mile west of Kaunakakai.
Central Uplands & North Shore
Kalaupapa National Historical Park 
HISTORIC SITE Only 100 people a day, age 16 and older, may visit this isolated peninsula below the North Shore’s soaring sea cliffs, and then only by reservation with Damien Tours (see “Organized Tours” on p. 442). Visitors must arrive on foot or by plane—there’s no road, and access by water is not allowed—but the trek is well worth the effort. The area formally known as the Makanalua Peninsula was once home to the Native Hawaiian villages of Kalawao and Kalaupapa, on either side of 443-foot Kauhako Crater. Residents were evicted and the naturally isolated peninsula turned into a place of exile. In 1865 King Kamehameha V signed the Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy, which ultimately sent some 8,000 people with the dreaded disease to live in Kalawao and Kalaupapa. The exiles’ suffering was particularly acute before the arrival in 1873 of now-canonized Father Damien (see “The Saints of Molokai,” p. 443), who worked tirelessly on their behalf until his death from the disease in 1889. Only a handful of elderly patients, free to come and go since the 1960s, still live on site, but many buildings and ruins remain from more populous times; the park service is kept busy restoring many of them. The Damien Tours bus picks up passengers from arriving prop planes at the tiny airstrip, near the Pacific’s tallest lighthouse, before retrieving hikers near the beach at the trail’s end.
Kalaupapa. www.nps.gov/kala. 808/567-6802. Access restricted to ages 16 and older on guided tours only, Mon–Sat. Kalaupapa Trail starts on the east side of Kalae Hwy. (behind gate marked No Trespassing). Hiking package with permit and tour, $60 from Damien Tours (www.damientoursllc.com 808/567-6171). Makani Kai (www.makanikaiair.com; 808/834-1111) offers air/tour/lunch packages from Hoolehua, $249 fly in/fly out, $149 hike in/fly out; from Honolulu, $315 and $249, respectively; from Kahului, Maui, $349 and $249, respectively.
No More Mules |
It was announced at press time that because of a dispute between the landowner and tour operators, the extremely popular Kalaupapa Guided Mule Tour has ceased operations and is not expected to reopen. So for now, at least, the only way to traverse the Kalaupapa Trail is on two feet--your own.
Kalaupapa National Historical Park
Palaau State Park PARK This 234-acre forest park literally puts visitors between a rock and a hard place. From the parking lot, go left on the short but steep dirt trail through an ironwood grove to the Phallic Rock ; go right on the paved path, and the Kalaupapa Lookout offers a panoramic view of the peninsula that was once a place of exile (see “Kalaupapa National Historical Park,” above). Interpretive signs identify the sights some 1,700 feet below and briefly relate the tragic history that also spawned inspirational stories. As for that unmistakably shaped 6-foot-tall boulder, one legend holds that it’s the fertility demigod Nanahoa, turned to stone after he threw his wife over a cliff during an argument about his roving eye. It’s also believed that a woman wishing to become pregnant need only spend the night nearby. (Treat this cultural site with respect, as signs urge.) Note: There are restrooms near the overlook and at a small pavilion on the left before the parking lot, but no potable water. Tent camping allowed with state permit (see “Camping,” p. 454).
At the end of Kalae Hwy. (Hwy. 470), Palaau. www.hawaiistateparks.org. 808/567-6923. Free admission.
Organized Tours
Although Molokai attracts (and rewards) independent travelers, a few guided tours are essential—they’re the only way to see the island’s most awe-inspiring sights up close.
Birding Tours Arleone Dibben-Young will chauffer you to the island’s unpredictably great birding spots: suburban wetlands, a wastewater treatment plant, mangrove-fringed mudflats, and a softball field, where a rare seabird likes to hang out in the diamond. Not only can Dibben-Young reliably call the rare kioea (bristle-thighed curlew), she has a permit to shelter endangered nene (Hawaiian geese) at her home. Even non-birders will get a kick out of her tremendous humor and passion for Hawaiian avifauna. Contact Ahupuaa Natives ( 808/553-5992) for early-morning excursions, typically at high tide. Tours cost $60 per hour, per person, with 1½ hours minimum.
Damien Tours The only way to explore the spectacular, haunting Kalaupapa peninsula is with Damien Tours (www.damientoursllc.com; 808/567-6171). Whether you descend the treacherous sea cliffs by foot or air, you must meet the bus at 10am (Mon–Sat) for a 4-hour tour, designed to protect the privacy of the few remaining residents. Prepare to be deeply moved by the landscape and the stories of those exiled here. Stops include the original graves of Father Damien and Mother Marianne (see “The Saints of Molokai,” p. 443); St. Philomena Church, where the Belgian priest carved holes in the floor so patients could discreetly spit during services; a snack shop and bookstore (bring cash; no large bills); and a small museum with heart-rending photos and artifacts, such as a spoon reshaped for a disfigured hand. Lunch is an oceanside picnic at Kalawao, one of the most scenic spots in all of Hawaii. Restricted to ages 16 and older, the tour costs $60, with limited spaces. Note: All tours must be booked in advance, which is easier to do through the “topside” outfitters listed in “Kalaupapa National Historical Park,” p. 440.
Tiny Molokai can claim two saints canonized by the Roman Catholic church in recent years, both revered for years of devotion to the outcasts of Kalaupapa (see “Kalaupapa National Historical Park,” below). Born in Belgium as Joseph de Veuster, Father Damien moved to Hawai’i in 1864, building churches around the islands until 1873, when he answered a call to serve in the infamous leper colony (a now-discouraged term). He tended the sick, rebuilt St. Philomena’s church, and pleaded with church and state officials for better care for the exiles, the earliest of whom had been thrown overboard and left to fend for themselves. Damien ultimately died of Hansen’s disease, as leprosy is now known, in Kalaupapa in 1889. Caring for him at the end was Mother Marianne, who came to Hawaii with a group of nuns from New York in 1883. She spent 30 years serving the Kalaupapa community, before dying in 1918 at age 80, without contracting Hansen’s disease. (It’s only communicable to a small percentage of people.)
You’ll see many images of both saints in Kalaupapa as well as “topside” (the exiles’ nickname for the rest of Molokai). Three topside churches are worth peeking into: in Kaunakakai, the modernist, concrete St. Damien Church 
(115 Ala Malama Ave.) features four lovely mosaics depicting scenes from Damien’s life. Inside, you’ll find a life-size wooden sculpture of the eponymous saint, canonized in 2009. Turn around to see the large banners bearing his photograph and one of Marianne, canonized in 2012. Next door, the parish office offers exhibits on both saints (open Tues–Fri 9am–noon).
Ten miles east of Kaunakakai, on the ocean side of Highway 450, St. Joseph 
is a diminutive wood-frame church built by Damien in 1876. A lava-rock statue of the sainted Belgian priest stands in the little cemetery by the newer, 7-foot marble sculpture of Brother Dutton, a Civil War veteran and former alcoholic inspired by Damien to serve at Kalaupapa for 45 years, until his death in 1931. Four miles east, set back from the large cross on the mountain side of the highway, is the larger but still picturesque Our Lady of Seven Sorrows , the first church Damien built outside Kalaupapa. Inside both East End churches hang colorful iconic portraits of the saints by local artist Linda Johnston.
Halawa Valley Tours On the East End, a guided tour or authorized escort is required to go beyond Halawa Beach Park into breathtakingly beautiful Halawa Valley, home to the island’s earliest settlement and 250-foot Mooula Falls. Pilipo Solatorio’s 4-hour, culturally focused tours start with traditional Hawaiian protocol and are the most renowned (see “A Hike Back in History” on p. 438 for details). Kalani Pruet will pair Halawa Valley tours ($40 adults, $20 children) with a visit to his flower farm (www.molokaiflowers.com; Tues–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun by appointment; e-mail him several days in advance at kuleanaworkcenter@yahoo.com). Note: The valley is privately owned—trespassers may be prosecuted, and almost certainly hassled, if caught.
Molokai emits a deep spirituality, earning it the nickname “place of powerful prayer.” In ancient times, the island was an epicenter of religious practices and home to a school of sorcery. According to legend, powerful kaula (sorcerers) could pray away attacking armies, summon fish into nets, and control the weather at will. The modern population still puts a lot of stock into prayer. Churches of every denomination line the rural roads. You can count eight on the way from the airport into Kaunakakai, and a dozen more on the way to Halawa Valley.
Whale-Watching Tours If you’re on island in winter (Dec–Mar), don’t miss the chance to see humpback whales from Alaska frolic in island waters, often with clingy calves in tow, or boisterous pods of males competing for a female’s attention. Though you may spot whales spouting or breaching from the shore, a whale-watching cruise from Kaunakakai skirts the fringing reef to provide front-row seats. Veteran outfitter Molokai Fish & Dive (www.molokaifishanddive.com; 808/553-5926) offers 2- to 3-hour tours for $79 on its comfortable 31-foot power catamaran or 38-foot, two-level dive boat. Molokai Ocean Tours (www.molokaioceantours.com; 808/553-3290) also leads humpback-spotting hunts on its 30- and 40-foot power cats for $75.
Halawa Falls in Halawa Valley
Van Tours If your time on the island is tight—as in a day trip from Maui or Oahu—I also recommend a van tour with an affable local guide. For groups of four or more, Molokai Outdoors (www.molokai-outdoors.com; 877/553-4477 or 808/633-8700) offers the 7- to 8-hour Island Tour ($184), covering Halawa Valley Lookout on the East End to Papohaku Beach on the West End with lunch included. Molokai Ocean Tours (www.molokaioceantours.com; 808/553-3290) provides a rare glimpse of natural and historic sites in the nearly inaccessible upland forest on its 6-hour Mountain Cultural Tour. The expert local guide uses a 4WD vehicle to explore Molokai Forest Reserve, home to the dramatic Waikolu Canyon Overlook and a massive ship-size pit dug during the early-19th-century sandalwood trade. Time permitting, he’ll also show you petroglyph sites and sea cliffs. Four guests maximum: $155 each for the first two guests and $85 apiece for the additional two.
Because of the South Shore’s extensive shallows, hemmed by a fringing reef and fishponds, and the general inaccessibility of the North Shore, the best Molokai beaches for visitors are on the East or West Ends. There are no lifeguards; on weekdays, you may even be the sole person on the sand. So enter the water only in calm conditions, and even then be cautious: If you get into trouble, help may take longer to arrive than you expect. Note: You’ll find relevant sites on the “Molokai” map on p. 433.
Kaunakakai
Local kids swim off the wharf, but if you just want to dip your feet in the water, head 3 miles east along the Kamehameha V Highway to the sandy shore of One Alii Beach Park . Pronounced “o-nay ah-lee-ee,” it has a thin strip of golden one (sand) once reserved for the ali‘i (high chiefs). Although the water is too shallow and murky for swimming, the spacious park is a picnic spot and draws many families on weekends. Facilities include outdoor showers, picnic areas, and restrooms; tent camping allowed with permit (see “Camping” on p. 454).
East End
At mile marker 20, palm-fringed Kumimi Beach , also known as Murphy Beach or 20-Mile Beach, provides a small, shaded park with picnic tables, white sand, and good swimming, snorkeling, and diving in calm conditions. Look for Sandy Beach between mile markers 21 and 22—the last beach before you head uphill en route to lush Halawa Valley. It has no facilities, just winsome views of Maui and Lanai and generally safe swimming; stay out of high surf.
At the narrow end of the winding highway, 28 miles east of Kaunakakai, lies Halawa Beach Park . Tucked between sea cliffs, the wide rocky bay is beautiful but not safe for swimming. Behind it, the gray sand cove adjacent to the river is a serene option for those willing to ford the stream. Avoid this during winter or after heavy rains. Look back into Halawa Valley (accessible only via cultural tours; see p. 438) for distant waterfall views. A picnic pavilion has restrooms, a shower, and water tap; it’s 100 yards from the shore, across from Ierusalema Hou, a tiny green church built in 1948.
Much of the shoreline here is for sightseeing only, thanks to dangerous currents and fierce surf—especially in winter. But solitude, sunsets, and clear-day vistas of Diamond Head on Oahu across the 26-mile Kaiwi Channel make it worth the trek. From Kaunakakai, take Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) almost 15 miles west, turn right on Kaluakoi Road, and drive 4½ miles until you see the sign on your right pointing to Ke Nani Kai; turn right for public beach access parking at the end of the road. Walk past the eerily decaying, closed hotel to gold-sand Kepuhi Beach , and watch surfers navigate the rocky break. A 15-minute walk north along the bluff leads to the Pohaku Mauliuli cinder cone, which shares its name with two sandy coves better known as Make Horse Beach , pronounced “mah-kay” and meaning “dead horse” (don’t ask). You can snorkel and explore the tide pools in calm conditions, but do keep an eye on the waves. Hiking several miles north on a rugged dirt road leads to the white crescent of Kawakiu Beach , the original launch site of the Molokai to Oahu outrigger canoe race. It’s relatively safe in summer, but be wary whenever surf is up.
Continue on Kaluakoi Road 2 miles south from the resort to the parking lot for Papohaku Beach Park , where the light-blond sand is more than 2 miles long and 300 feet wide. Enjoy strolling the broad expanse, but beware the water’s ferocious rip currents. County facilities—restrooms, water, picnic, and campsites (see “Camping” on p. 454)—are at the northern end, a third of a mile past the intersection with Pa Loa Loop Road (a shortcut back to upper Kaluakoi Rd.).
Kumimi Beach
From Papohaku, follow Kaluakoi Road 1¾ miles south to the T at Pohakuloa Road; turn right and head another 1¾ miles. Just before the road ends, turn seaward at the beach access sign. Park in the small lot and follow a short downhill path to cozy Dixie Maru Beach (formerly Kapukahehu, but renamed after a Japanese shipwreck). Popular with families in summer, this sheltered cove is the island’s best, safest spot to swim.
The miles-long, untrammeled South Shore reef is home to curious turtles and Hawaiian monk seals, billowing eagle and manta rays, and giant bouquets of colorful fish, but because it lies a half-mile or more offshore, it’s easiest to explore via watercraft of some kind. Surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, and boogie boarders can find waves to entertain themselves, just as sport fishers have numerous near-shore and deep-sea options; since conditions are variable by day as well as by season, consult one of the Kaunakakai-based outfitters below before venturing out.
Diving, Fishing & Snorkeling
Molokai Fish & Dive, 61 Ala Malama Ave. (www.molokaifishanddive.com; 808/553-5926), carefully selects the day’s best sites for its snorkel tours ($79 standard) and two-tank scuba dives ($145). Owner, captain, and certified dive master Tim Forsberg runs tours from one of two Coast Guard–inspected boats: the comfy, 38-foot Delta dive boat Coral Princess and the twin-hulled, 31-foot power catamaran Ama Lua. When conditions permit, he also offers three-tank dives ($295) along the remote North Shore. Half-day deep-sea fishing charters start at $695, while groups of up to six may also charter the new 42-foot sailing cruiser, Maka Pueo, for 2- to 3-hour sunset cruises ($395). All kinds of dive and fishing gear, along with snacks and gifts, are for rent or sale at the downtown headquarters.
Among several other charter operators, Captain Tim Brunnert of Captain’s Gig Charters (www.molokaifishingcharters.com; 808/552-0390 or 808/336-1055) books sport-fishing, snorkel, sunset, and sightseeing cruises on the biggest, most comfortable boat in the harbor. He lets sportfishers keep some of the catch. He’s also a certified dive master. Call for current rates.
Molokai Ocean Tours, 40 Ala Malama Ave., above American Savings Bank (www.molokaioceantours.com; 808/553-3290), uses its six-passenger power catamaran to offer 3-hour troll fishing ($500 for the boat up six people) and a half-day deep-sea fishing charter ($625). Its snorkel tours ($75 adults, $60 children 10 and younger) include a SNUBA option that allows up to two people at a time to dive 30 feet, using hoses connected to a special mouthpiece.
For whale-watching tours (Dec–Mar), see “Organized Tours” on p. 442.
Paddling
Molokai Outdoors (www.molokai-outdoors.com; 877/553-4477 or 808/633-8700) leads fantastic downwind kayak and stand-up-paddleboard reef tours from 5 to 14 miles ($75 adults, less for children); owner and former world champion windsurfer Clare Seeger Mawae occasionally guides the tours. Her company also rents kayaks ($42), snorkel sets and boogie boards ($7), and stand-up paddleboards ($42); in summer, experienced paddlers can arrange a North Shore kayak excursion that starts in Halawa Valley, with pickup by boat.
Stand-up paddleboarder in Molokai
If you want to experience the ancient sport of outrigger canoe paddling, visit the Waakapaemua Canoe Club (molokaiwaa@gmail.com; 808/553-8018) at Kaunakakai Wharf on Thursday morning at 7:15am sharp. You can jump into a six-person boat and participate in the club’s weekly practice. First come, first paddle! Bring a $25 cash donation to help support the youth teams. Custom bookings are available for parties of four or more.
Conveniently located between the airport and Kaunakakai at the corner of highways 460 and 470 (Holomua Junction), you’ll spot Beach Break (www.bigwindkites.com/beachbreak; 808/567-6091) by its rainbow fence made of surfboards. Inside, owner, photographer, and avid surfer Zach Socher rents surfboards ($24–$30 daily/$120–$150 weekly), bodyboards ($10/$35), and fins ($5/$21), among other beach gear for rent or sale. Check out the bright array of bikinis, board shorts, “slippahs,” T-shirts, and sarongs, too. Socher dispenses free coffee and advice on surf spots during store hours, Monday through Saturday 10am to 4pm.
Biking
Molokai is a great place to see by bicycle, with lightly used roads and, on the East End, inviting places to pull over for a quick dip. Molokai Bicycle, 80 Mohala St., Kaunakakai (www.mauimolokaibicycle.com; 800/709-2453 or 808/553-5740), offers mountain, road, and hybrid bike rentals for $25 to $32 a day, or $95 to $130 a week, including helmet and lock; add a trailer for $12 a day, $60 a week. Because owner Phillip Kikukawa is a schoolteacher, the store is open only Wednesday (3–6pm) and Saturday (9am–2pm); call to set up an appointment for other hours. Drop-off and pickup in or near Kaunakakai is free, with charges for runs to the airport ($20 each way/$30 round-trip) or Kaluakoi Resort and Wavecrest condos ($25 each way).
Golf
Take a swing back into golf history at Ironwood Hills Golf Course ( 808/567-6000). Built in 1929 by the Del Monte Plantation for its executives, the nine-hole, undulating course with uneven fairways lies a half-mile down an unpaved road off Highway 470 in Kalae, between Coffees of Hawaii in Kualapuu and the Kalaupapa Lookout. Gorgeous mountain and ocean views, some filtered by tree growth, also compensate for the challenging course. Greens fees are $36 for 9 holes, including cart; club rentals are $10. Pick up a logo cap in the pro shop trailer.
Hiking
With most land privately held, the only real hiking opportunities on Molokai are the Kalaupapa Trail (permit required; see p. 440), Halawa Valley by guided tour (see p. 438), or in two hard-to-access Nature Conservancy preserves (see “Fragile Beauties,” below). Molokai Ocean Tours’ 6-hour Mountain Cultural Tour (p. 445) includes some hiking in the Molokai Forest Reserve.
Fragile Beauties: Hiking Molokai’s nature reserves
For spectacularly unique views of Molokai, the Nature Conservancy of Hawaii offers monthly guided hikes March through October into two of the island’s most fragile landscapes: the windswept dunes in the 920-acre Moomomi Preserve on the northwest shore, and the cloud-ringed forest of the island’s highest mountain, part of the 2,774-acre Kamakou Preserve on the island’s East End.
Just 8½ miles northwest of Hoolehua, Moomomi is the most intact beach and sand dune area in the main Hawaiian islands, harboring jewel-like endemic plants, nesting green sea turtles, and fossils of now-extinct flightless birds.
Towering over the island’s eastern half, 4,970-foot Kamakou provides 60% of the fresh water on Molokai and shelter for rare native species, such happy-faced spiders and deep-throated lobelias. The Pepeopae Trail boardwalk (3 miles round-trip) meanders through a bog of miniature ohia trees and silver-leaved lilies that evolved over millennia; it leads to a view of pristine Pelekunu Valley on the North Shore.
Hikes are free (donations welcome), but the number of participants is limited. Book in advance; exact dates (usually Sat) are listed on the conservancy website (www.nature.org/hawaii). To check availability, e-mail hike_molokai@tnc.org, or call the field office ( 808/553-5236; weekdays 8am–3pm).
It’s possible to access the preserves on your own, but you’ll need a rugged four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle, dry roads, and clear weather. Check in first at the field office, just north of Kaunakakai in Molokai Industrial Park, 23 Pueo Place, off Ulili Street near Highway 460. Ask for directions and current road conditions; in the case of Moomomi, you’ll also need to get a pass for the locked gate. Clean your shoes and gear before visiting the preserves to avoid bringing in invasive species, and drive cautiously—a tow job from these remote areas can easily cost $1,000.
With only one small hotel on the island, the majority of Molokai’s approximately 58,000 annual visitors tend to stay in vacation rentals or condominiums. Individually owned and decorated condo units vary widely in taste and quality, leaning heavy on the rattan. Don’t expect air-conditioning or elevators in the two- and three-story buildings, either.
Molokai Vacation Properties (www.molokai-vacation-rental.net; 800/367-2984 or 808/553-8334) can help you navigate what’s available. The agents represent only licensed and legal rentals, most of them oceanfront and all guaranteed to be clean and fully equipped. You can book online, but it’s best to contact the office directly to identify the most suitable unit for your needs. Their customer service is excellent. You’ll find more (though not necessarily licensed) properties online at VRBO.com, Airbnb.com, and other rental websites.
Note: Taxes of 13.416% are added to hotel and vacation rental bills. Parking is free. Unless noted, cleaning fees refer to one-time charges.
Note: Some travelers may appreciate the convenience of a condo at Molokai Shores, 1 mile east of town, with many units managed by Molokai Vacation Properties (see above) or Castle Resorts (www.castleresorts.com; 877/367-1912). I find the complex lacks the ambience and privacy found further out on the East or West End, while the compact units (510–663 sq. ft.) can be noisy.
Moderate
Hotel Molokai The free earplugs on the nightstands give away the downside of this retro collection of Polynesian-style A-frames and a single-story wing: Some rooms suffer from traffic noise. Also, as with most lodgings on the South Side, the beach isn’t good for swimming. The upsides: Sunset and sunrise views from the pool or hammocks are outstanding, the staff is friendly, and the remodeled rooms are cool, thanks to big ceiling fans and a few even have air-conditioning units. All have microwaves, mini fridges, and coffeemakers, but since most are a petite 228 square feet, it’s better to spring for one of the deluxe second-floor rooms (432 sq. ft.) with kitchenettes. Families can take advantage of suites with a king-size bed downstairs and twin beds in a loft. Under new management since late 2017, the oceanfront restaurant Hiro’s Ohana Grill features live Hawaiian music nightly.
1300 Kamehameha V Hwy. (Hwy. 450), 2 miles east of Kaunakakai. www.hotelmolokai.com. 877/553-5347 or 808/553-5347. 40 units (14 timeshares). $179–$269 double. Daily resort fee $5 (includes Wi-Fi, snorkel and beach gear, DVD library). Rollaway $25 (not permitted in all rooms); free crib. Airport shuttle $25. Amenities: Restaurant, bar; coin laundry; gift shop; pool; activity desk; free Wi-Fi.
West End
Moderate
Kaluakoi Resort Developed and managed separately, these three condo complexes near Maunaloa have much in common. Negatives include a remote location, varying quality of furnishings and decor, and the slightly haunted ambience thanks to the shuttered hotel next door. Positives: easy access to Kepuhi and other West End beaches (see “Beaches,” p. 446), large lanais, and serene silence—I didn’t even hear the crow of wild roosters on my last visit. Built in 1983, the 120-unit, two-story Ke Nani Kai (50 Kepuhi Place) is set back farthest from Kepuhi Beach but boasts the nicest pool and the only hot tub and tennis courts of the bunch; units are two-bedroom, two-bathroom (880–990 sq. ft.) or one-bedroom, one-bathroom (680 ft.). Built in 1978, the diverse condos of Kepuhi Beach Villas (255 Kepuhi Beach) are closest to the sand, with a generous oceanview pool on the grounds of the abandoned Kaluakoi Hotel. The 148 units are spread among two-story buildings with shared laundry facilities (and thin walls), and eight duplex cottages with individual washer/dryers; the largest units have a ground floor (642 sq. ft.) with a master bedroom and bathroom, and a small loft with a second bedroom and bathroom. Nearly hidden in tropical foliage, the 78-unit Paniolo Hale (100 Lio Place) means “cowboy house,” and the large screened lanais and wooden floors give it a hint of the Old West. Built in 1980, the 21 two-story buildings come in a host of floor plans, from studios (548 sq. ft.) to two-bedroom, two-bathroom units (1,398 sq. ft.), some with lofts and sleeping quarters in the living room.
Kaluakoi Resort, Maunaloa. 346 units. Reservations for select units c/o Molokai Vacation Properties: www.molokai-vacation-rental.com. 800/367-2984 or 808/553-8334. $125–$250 condo; 10% discount for stays of a week or more. $75–$125 cleaning fee. 3- to 7-night minimum. Amenities: Barbecues; Jacuzzi; pools; tennis courts (Ke Nani Kai only); Wi-Fi (varies by unit).
East End
Note: Mailing addresses for these lodgings use Kaunakakai.
Moderate
Dunbar Beachfront Cottages These two attractive, green-and-white, plantation-style cottages sit on hidden beaches, with year-round swimming and snorkeling—your own slice of paradise. Each has two bedrooms (one with twin beds), one bathroom, a full kitchen, washer and dryer, and attractive furnishings. The family-friendly Pauwalu cottage is at ocean level, with a queen-size bed in the master and an ancient fishpond out front. The Puunana cottage has a king-size bed in its master bedroom and sits one flight of stairs above the beach.
9750 Kamehameha V Hwy. (Hwy. 450), past mile marker 18, Kainalu. www.molokai-beachfront-cottages.com. 800/673-0520 or 808/558-8153. 2 cottages (each sleeps 4). $190. $85 cleaning fee. 3-night minimum. No credit cards. Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Puu O Hoku Ranch Its name means “hill of stars,” which accurately describes this 14,000-acre retreat on a cloudless night. You’ll stay in one of three 1930s-era cottages, thoughtfully decorated with Hawaiian and Balinese furnishings. Sitting well above the ocean, the four-bedroom, three-bathroom Grove Cottage is in a field closer to the ranch operations, while the two-bedroom, two-bathroom Sunrise Cottage has a more secluded feel and a panoramic view. The one-bedroom, one-bathroom Sugar Mill Cottage, named for the nearby remains of a mill, hides just above Kumimi Beach (p. 445). Only ranch guests have access to its numerous hiking trails, which pass ocean bluffs, an ancient grove, and a nursery for nene. Note: Groups (a minimum of 14 people) can also book the handsome 11-room lodge, which comes with a private pool, yoga deck, and fireplace as well as three meals a day featuring the ranch’s organic meat and produce ($185 per person, 4-night minimum).
Main entrance off Kamehameha V Hwy. (Hwy. 450) at mile marker 25. www.puuohoku.com. 808/558-8109. 3 cottage units. $200–$300 double, 7th night free. Extra person $30. $100–$150 refundable cleaning fee (charged at check-in). 2-night minimum. Amenities: Store (9am–5pm Mon–Fri); Wi-Fi (free at select hotspots).
Wavecrest Resort Halfway to Halawa Valley from Kaunakakai, this three-story condo complex on 6 green acres is a convenient, clean home base. Your best bet is Building A, the closest to the ocean. Top floors offer the best views of Maui, Lanai, and uninhabited Kahoolawe, but keep in mind that the resort has no elevators (or air-conditioning). Bottom floor units aren’t bad, as they open straight to the grass and plumeria trees. Bedroom windows face the parking lot, so you’ll hear traffic. Units are individually owned and decorated; scrutinize photos and amenity lists closely. The gated pool and cabana with barbecues are well maintained, and the front desk has free tennis equipment to use on its two courts.
7148 Kamehameha V Hwy. (Hwy. 450), 13 miles east of Kaunakakai. 128 total units. Reservations for select units c/o Molokai Vacation Properties: www.molokai-vacation-rental.com. 800/367-2984 or 808/553-8334. $105–$165 condo; 10% discount for stays of a week or more. $75–$100 cleaning fee. 3- to 7-night minimum. Amenities: Barbecues; coin laundry; pool; tennis courts; Wi-Fi (varies by unit).
Camping
All campgrounds are for tents only, and permits for county and state sites must be purchased in advance. You’ll have to bring your own equipment or plan to buy it on the island, as there are no rentals.
County Campgrounds The family-friendly One Alii Beach Park (p. 445) provides restrooms, barbecues, outdoor showers, drinking water, picnic tables, and electricity; Papohaku Beach Park (p. 446) has the same, minus electricity and plus plenty of sharp kiawe thorns. Note: The no camping signs near the Papohaku parking lot apply only to the lawn to the right of the restrooms.
Permits $10 adults, $6 minors Mon–Thurs, $20 adults, $12 minors Fri–Sun and holidays (discounts for state residents). 3-night maximum. Available in person 8am–1pm and 2:30–4pm weekdays at the Maui County parks office, Mitchell Pauole Community Center, 90 Ainoa St., Kaunakakai, 96748. 808/553-3204. To purchase by mail, download the form at www.co.maui.hi.us and mail to the parks office with check and self-addressed, stamped envelope.
State Campgrounds The state manages two campgrounds at high, often misty elevations: Palaau State Park (p. 442) and the remote Waikolu Overlook in the Molokai Forest Reserve. Both have restroom and picnic facilities, but no drinking water or barbecues. Note: Waikolu is spectacular, but requires a 4WD vehicle to drive 10 miles up mostly unpaved Maunahui Road starting from its unmarked intersection with Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) near mile marker 4; do not attempt in muddy or rainy conditions. If the area is not covered in clouds, you’ll be rewarded with views of the pristine Waikolu Valley and the Pacific, and be that much closer to the Kamakou Preserve (p. 450).
Permits $18 per campsite (up to 6 persons), $3 per additional person (kids 2 and under free). 5-night maximum. 808/984-8100. Available online at https://camping.ehawaii.gov.
Gourmands looking for fine dining will be disappointed on Molokai, but with a little strategizing you can eat well. Plan on cooking most of your meals if you are staying any distance from Kaunakakai. See p. 456 for where to stock up before heading out to your accommodations. Note: If you arrive on a Sunday, bring snacks! Most restaurants and groceries are only open Monday through Saturday. Find the restaurants noted below on the “Hotels & Restaurants on Molokai” map on p. 451.
Kaunakakai
The new restaurant at Hotel Molokai, Hiro’s Ohana Grill ( 808/660-3400), is a family affair, with several generations stepping in to serve local dishes with a little flair. The locally sourced fish entrees, fresh pesto chicken sandwiches and the bananas lumpia Foster dessert have already won diners’ devotion. Paddlers’ Inn (see “Molokai Nightlife,” below) is the only other restaurant in town that serves alcohol (including draft beer), which explains its popularity. It has an eclectic menu—beef noodle soup, kalua pork sliders, salads with local greens—and free Wi-Fi. At night, it’s noisy and packed.
On the corner of Highway 450 and Ala Malama Avenue, Molokai Burger (www.molokaiburger.com; 808/553-3533) offers burgers and dinner plates ($14) such as fried chicken or kalbi ribs. It’s open Monday to Saturday until 9pm, with egg dishes and pancakes available 7 to 10:30am Saturday and free Wi-Fi. Next door, Molokai Pizza Cafe , 15 Kaunakakai Place, off Wharf Road ( 808/553-3288) serves standard pizza, salads, and burgers in a 1950s diner setting and is one of the few places that stays open late (until 11pm Fri–Sat, otherwise 10pm). Locals flock to Maka’s Korner , 35 Mohala St. ( 808/553-8058) for plate lunches (try the mahimahi) and more burgers. It has a handful of outdoor tables with counter service for breakfast, lunch, and dinner weekdays (breakfast and lunch only weekends). The quaint Store House , 145 Puali St. ( 808/553-5222), has an array of tropical lemonades, smoothies, pastries, salads, and sandwiches (check the specials). It’s a great place to stock up before heading out on an East End adventure. Open 7am to 5pm weekdays and 9am to 5pm on weekends.
Nearly every storefront in Kaunakakai sells groceries of some sort and you’ll want to visit several to stock up on specialty items. Start at Friendly’s Market, 90 Ala Malama Ave. ( 808/553-5595), which has a variety of dry goods and a small produce section. A few doors down, Misaki’s Store (78 Ala Malama Ave.; 808/553-5505) features fresh poke (seasoned, raw fish) and a few more vegetables. Across the street, tiny C. Pascua Store, 109 Ala Malama Ave. ( 808/553-5443), often has ripe fruit and jumbo frozen prawns farm-raised on Oahu—perfect for pairing with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from Molokai Wines N Spirits, 77 Ala Malama Ave. ( 808/553-5009). Aside from an excellent array of adult beverages, you’ll also find gourmet cheeses and crackers here. For organic and health-food brands, head to The Planter Box, 145 Puali St. ( 808/560-0010). Nearly everything is shuttered on Sundays, with the exception of Molokai Minimart, 35 Mohala St. ( 808/553-4447), helpfully open until 11pm daily.
If you can, try to coordinate your shopping with the Saturday morning farmer’s market in Kaunakakai (8am–noon). Several vendors sell homegrown fruits and vegetables. Otherwise, head to Kumu Farms , 9 Hua Ai Road, 1 mile south of Highway 460, near the airport ( 808/351-3326). Famed for luscious papayas, the farm stand also sells organic herbs, vegetables, pesto, banana bread, and other treats. It’s open Tuesday through Friday, 9am to 4pm.
Grocery shopping is very limited outside of Kaunakakai. On the West End, the Maunaloa General Store 
, 200 Maunaloa Hwy., Maunaloa ( 808/552-2346), has staples and occasional plate lunches for sale; it’s open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, Sunday 9am to noon. Thirsty beachgoers will be glad to discover A Touch of Molokai ( 808/552-0133), inside the otherwise-empty Kaluakoi Hotel. It’s open 9am to 5pm daily, with snacks, sodas, and microwaveable fare. On the East End, the “Goods” (convenience store) half of Manae Goods & Grindz, 8615 Kamehameha V Hwy., Pukoo, near mile marker 16 ( 808/558-8498), is open weekdays 8am to 6pm (until 5pm weekends). At mile marker 25, the Puu O Hoku Ranch Store ( 888/573-7775) sells organic produce, honey, fresh herbs, frozen awa, and free-range organic beef—all produced at the ranch. In the central uplands, Kualapuu Market, 311 Farrington Rd. (Hwy. 480) at Uwao Street, Kualapuu ( 808/567-6243), is handy for picking up a ready-to-grill steak (Mon–Sat 8:30am–6pm).
Sweets lovers have many temptations. At Kamoi Snack-n-Go , 28 Kamoi St. ( 808/553-3742), choose from more than 31 flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream from Honolulu, including local favorites such as kulolo (taro-coconut custard), haupia (coconut pudding), and ube (purple yam). You can’t miss the lime green storefront of Kanemitsu’s Bakery , 79 Ala Malama Ave. ( 808/553-5585), a throwback to the 1960s that churns out pies, pastries, and cookies as well as sweet and savory breads. During breakfast and lunch hours, the attached restaurant serves typical American fare with local touches such as kimchi fried rice with eggs ($9) and local organic papaya (for just $1).
Elsewhere on the Island
Outside of Kaunakakai, the Kualapuu Cookhouse , 102 Farrington Road and Uwao Street, Kualapuu ( 808/567-9655), serves gourmet diner fare, with entrees ($11–$33) such as spicy crusted ahi with lime cilantro sauce and a Thursday prime-rib special that’s a local favorite. Breakfast and lunch menus are less ambitious but still tasty; sit amid cheery plantation-style decor inside or at covered picnic tables outside. On the East End, the takeout counter at Manae Goods & Grindz, 8615 Kamehameha V Hwy., Pukoo, near mile marker 16 ( 808/558-8498), is the area’s lone dining option. Smiling faces serve simple tuna sandwiches, burgers, and acai bowls for breakfast through the counter window. It’s open from 6:30am to 6pm weekdays and 7:30am to 4:30pm on weekends. For food on the West End, see “Groceries, Markets & Edibles,” above.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Kaunakakai
The eclectic Kalele Bookstore , 64 Ala Malama Ave. (www.molokaispirit.com; 808/553-5112) is a great place to start your Molokai vacation. Owner Teri Waros is a marvelous fount of local information and can orient you to the island. Ogle her curated selection of feather lei, shell necklaces, and earrings made with kapa (traditional bark fabric), then peruse the excellent collection of new and used books (including many rare Hawaiian titles), locally made artwork, and children’s games.
The artist cooperative Molokai Art From the Heart, also at 64 Ala Malama Ave. (www.molokaigallery.com; 808/553-8018), features works by some 150 artists, virtually all from Molokai. Something For Everybody, 40 Ala Malama Ave. (www.allthingsmolokai.com; 808/553-3299) will print custom T-shirts or trucker hats to commemorate your trip, in addition to selling locally designed goods. Decorated with vintage finds, the Attic Boutique, 145 Puali St. ( 808/553-5222), specializes in handmade jewelry and casual women’s wear.
The Perfect Molokai Souvenir |
Found in nearly every Molokai store, the dozen varieties of local sea salts from Pacifica Hawaii (www.pacificahawaii.com) make ideal gifts. Salt master Nancy Gove evaporates seawater in elevated pans at the front of her home in Kaunakakai and then infuses colors and flavors via ingredients such as local clay (alaea), Kauai-made rum, and Maui sugar. To see how she does it, call 
808/553-8484 and book a free tour.
Make sure to hit the Saturday morning farmer’s market (8am–noon) in downtown Kaunakakai; among the aunties sitting on the sidewalk with giant papaya and other produce, you’ll find a dozen vendors of island arts and crafts, clothing, and specialty foods such as local vanilla extract.
Elsewhere on the Island
Don’t speed past Holumua Junction (the intersection of highways 460 and 470 on the way to Kualapuu). The entrepreneurial ladies at Kupu Ae (www.kupuaemolokai.com; 808/646-1504) design and handcraft beautiful silkscreens and batiks—sarongs, pillows, wall hangings and more—each with deep Hawaiian meaning. You’ll also find lovely jewelry, soaps, and art supplies. Next door, the Beach Break sporting goods store ( 808/567-6091) sells everything you need for fun in the sun, plus top-quality ukuleles, cards, books, children’s items, home decor, women’s clothing in natural fabrics, and large-format prints of owner Zach Socher’s impressive photos from around the island.
Two miles uphill, Denise’s Gifts, inside Molokai Furniture at the intersection of Highway 470 and Farrington Road (Hwy. 480), offers bargain-priced lauhala (woven) boxes, straw fedoras, woven ornaments, shell and pearl jewelry, and children’s aloha wear (www.molokaifurniture.com; 808/567-6083).
Tucked behind Coffees of Hawaii, the Molokai Arts Center ( 808/567-9696) is an active hub for local ceramicists and you can buy beautiful handmade bowls, chimes, and mugs for decent prices. Park on Hula Street and follow the signs.
Zach Socher’s parents, Jonathan and Daphne, own the colorful Big Wind Kite Factory & Plantation Gallery , 120 Maunaloa Hwy., Maunaloa (www.bigwindkites.com; 808/552-2364), chock-full of Balinese furnishings, stone and shell jewelry, Kalaupapa memoirs, and other books on Molokai. Test-fly one of the handmade Big Wind kites at the nearby park.
The few choices for evening entertainment at least mean a lively crowd is guaranteed wherever you go. Paddlers Restaurant and Bar, on the ocean side of Highway 450 at Mohala Street (www.paddlersrestaurant.com; 808/553-3300), is the island’s primary watering hole. The spacious indoor-outdoor restaurant and bar hosts predominantly local acts onstage most nights and Sunday afternoons, when Na Ohana Aloha plays Hawaiian music at 3pm. For the later shows, you’ll hear classic and contemporary Hawaiian music, country, even jazz, usually 6:30 to 8:30pm; some nights, a disco DJ or karaoke will keep the party going until midnight.
If possible, time your trip to coincide with Ka Hula Piko (www.kahulapiko.com), an intimate celebration of the ancient art of hula. Over 3 days, hula practitioners offer powerful chants and dance, not as performance but as gifts to their ancestors. This hula is unlike anything you’ll see elsewhere: dances mimicking mythological turtles, honoring the work of taro farmers, and proclaiming ancient prophesies. The island-wide festivities typically occur in the first week of June and wrap up with an all-day ho‘olaule‘a (festival) during which visiting hula troupes from as far as Japan and Europe share their skills.
The annual Ka Molokai Makahiki (www.molokaievents.com) is another not-to-miss event. Islanders celebrate the rainy season—a time of peace and prosperity in ancient Hawaii—with traditional crafts, hula, chanting, games, and competitions. All of Molokai gathers for the daylong event, held on a Saturday in January at the Mitchell Pauole Center in Kaunakakai.
Most nights of the week, Hawaiian music enlivens Hiro’s Ohana Grill, the oceanfront/poolside bar and restaurant at Hotel Molokai (p. 452). On Thursdays, live music (plus the prime rib) draws patrons to Kualapuu Cookhouse (p. 457). Finally, while it’s not nightlife, per se, the twice-weekly kanikapila (jam session) at Coffees of Hawaii, 1630 Farrington Hwy. (www.coffeesofhawaii.com; 808/567-9490) is definitely worth attending. A group of ukulele-strumming aunties and uncles fill the broad lanai, playing American and Hawaiian standards. The island’s sweet-voiced kupuna (elders) dress up for the occasion and Hawaii’s best musicians drop in whenever they’re on island to croon alongside them. Don’t miss it: Tuesday mornings 10am to 1pm and Friday afternoons 3pm to 6pm.
