Hulupoe Bay
Lanai is deliciously remote: The island’s tiny airport doesn’t accommodate direct flights from the Mainland and its closest neighbor is a 45-minute ferry ride away. It’s almost as if this quiet, gentle oasis—known for both its small-town feel and celebrity appeal—demands that visitors go to great lengths to get here in order to better appreciate it.
Arriving
By Plane If you’re coming from outside Hawaii, you’ll have to make a connection on Oahu (Honolulu/HNL) or Maui (Kahului/OGG or Kapalua/JHM), where you can catch a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it flight to Lanai’s airport. You’ll touch down in Palawai Basin, once the world’s largest pineapple plantation; it’s about 10 minutes by car to Lanai City and 25 minutes to Manele Bay.
Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 
800/367-5320) operates a fleet of pretty turboprop planes that fly direct from Honolulu to Lanai. Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-7070) offers charter flights to the island on nine-passenger Cessna Grand Caravan planes.
By Boat A round-trip on Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry (http://go-lanai.com; 800/695-2624) takes you between Maui and Lanai for $30 adults and $20 children each way. The ferry runs five times a day, 365 days a year, between Lahaina (on Maui) and Lanai’s Manele Bay harbor. The 9-mile channel crossing takes 45 minutes to an hour, depending on sea conditions. Reservations are strongly recommended; call or book online. Baggage is limited to two checked bags and one carry-on. Bonus: During the winter months, taking the ferry amounts to a free whale-watch.
If you feel the need for speed (and have $1600 to spare), charter private passage with Lanai Ocean Sports ( 808/866-8256) aboard Kalulu. The six-person 39’ inflatable previously served as a chase boat for the Americas Cup and can zip along at 50mph. On a calm day you’ll cross the channel separating Maui and Lanai in just 20 minutes.
Visitor Information
Lanai Visitors Bureau, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui 96793 (www.gohawaii.com/lanai; 800/947-4774 or 808/565-7600), and the Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau (www.gohawaii.com; 800/GO-HAWAII or 808/923-1811) provide brochures, maps, and island guides.
With barely 30 miles of paved road and not a single stoplight, Lanai (pronounced “lah-nigh-ee”) is unspoiled by what passes for progress. It’s a place of surreal juxtapositions. Much of the island is still untamed, except for a tiny 1920s-era plantation village and two luxury hotels.
Inhabited Lanai is divided into two regions: Lanai City, up on the mountain where the weather is cool and misty, and Manele, on the sunny southwestern coast where the weather is hot and dry.
Lanai City (pop. 3,200) sits at the heart of the island at 1,645 feet above sea level. It’s the only place on Lanai that offers services (gas and groceries), and the airport is just outside of town. Built in 1924, this plantation village is a tidy grid of quaint tin-roofed cottages in bright pastels, with backyard gardens of banana, passion fruit, and papaya. Many of the residents are Filipino immigrants who once toiled in Lanai’s pineapple fields. Their humble homes, now worth $500,000 or more (for a 1,500-sq.-ft. home, built in 1935, on a 6,000-sq.-ft. lot), are excellent examples of historic preservation; the whole town looks like it’s been kept under a bell jar.
Around Dole Park, a charming village square lined with towering Norfolk and Cook pines, plantation buildings house general stores, a post office (where people stop to chat), two banks, a half-dozen restaurants, an art gallery, an art center, a few boutiques, and a coffee shop that easily outshines any Starbucks. The historic one-room police station displays a “jail” consisting of three padlocked, outhouse-size cells as a throwback to earlier times. The new station—a block away, with regulation-size jail cells—probably sees just as little action.
Just up the road from Dole Park is the Lodge at Koele, a stately resort owned by tech billionaire Larry Ellison and closed indefinitely. Year after year, plans to reopen the hotel have fallen through. Like a grand European manor, it stands alone on a knoll overlooking pastures and the sea at the edge of a pine forest.
Manele is directly downhill—comprising Manele Bay (with its small boat harbor), Hulopoe Beach, and the island’s remaining bastion of extravagance, the Four Seasons Resort Lanai. You’ll see more of “typical” Hawaii here—sandy beach, swaying palms, and superlative sunsets.
With such a small population, everybody knows everybody here. The minute you arrive on island, you’ll feel the small-town coziness. People wave to passing cars, residents stop to talk with friends, and fishing and gardening are considered top priorities in life. Leaving the keys in your car’s ignition is standard practice.
There’s an app for That
The Lanai Culture & Heritage Center partnered with Pulama Lanai to create a great new tool for exploring the island. The Lanai Guide is a GPS-enabled app that directs you to historic sites, replete with old photos, aerial videos, and chants. It’s free on iTunes.
The island has little infrastructure, so you’ll need to plan your transportation in advance. Rabaca’s Limousine Service ( 808/565-6670) will retrieve you from the airport or harbor for $10 per person. Guests at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai ( 808/565-2000) will be retrieved by a complimentary shuttle bus or can hire a private SUV ($85 per vehicle, up to four passengers). If you’re camping at Hulopoe Beach, you can walk over from the harbor—a 5-minute stroll.
Once you’ve arrived at your lodging, it’s entirely possible to enjoy Lanai without getting behind the wheel. Lanai City is easily walkable and if you’re staying at the Four Seasons you’ll hardly want to stray from the luxurious property. But if you plan to explore the island’s remote shores or forested summit (which I highly recommend), you’ll need a four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle for at least a day.
Reserve your ride far in advance; cars are in short supply here. On top of that, gas is expensive on Lanai—upward of $4 a gallon—and off-road vehicles get lousy mileage. Spending $40 to $50 per day on gas isn’t unheard of. Tip: Rent only for the day (or days) you want to explore the island’s hinterlands. Keep in mind that rainy weather makes many roads impassable. Check with your rental agent to see which roads are open—and whether renting that day is worth your money.
Dollar Rent A Car, 1036 Lanai Ave. (http://dollarlanai.com; 800/533-7808 ext.1) is the standard, no-frills stop for cars, minivans, and 4WD jeeps. Expect to pay $139 (plus taxes) per day and abide by their rather cautious recommendations regarding which roads you can access. Lanai Adventure Club (http://jeeplanai.net; 800/565-7373) tends to be more flexible with their Jeep Wranglers and where you can drive them; call for pricing. Alternately, check with Susan and Michael Hunter of Dreams Come True (www.dreamscometruelanai.com; 808/565-6961). They rent 4WD vehicles to their guests for $125 per day and might have an extra available.
Lanai hasn’t always been so welcoming. Early Hawaiians believed the island was haunted by Pahulu (the god of nightmares) and spirits so wily and vicious that no human could survive here. But many have, for the past 1,000 years. Remnants of ancient Hawaiian villages, temples, fishponds, and petroglyphs decorate the Lanai landscape. King Kamehameha spent his summers here at a cliffside palace overlooking the sunny southern coast.
The island’s arid terrain was once native forest—patches of which persist on the 3,379-foot summit of Lanaihale—along with native birds, insects, and jewel-like tree snails. But the 1800s brought foreign ambitions and foreign strife to Hawaii: Disease took more than half of her native people, and Western commerce supplanted the islanders’ subsistence culture. Exotic pests such as rats, mosquitos, and feral goats and cattle decimated the native ecosystem and the island’s watershed. Various entrepreneurs tried to make their fortune here, farming sugarcane, cotton, sisal, or sugar beets. All failed, mostly for lack of water.
Jim Dole was the first to have real commercial success here. In 1921, he bought the island for $1.1 million. He built Lanai City, blasted out a harbor, and turned the island into a fancy fruit plantation. For 70 years, the island was essentially one big pineapple patch. Acres of prickly fields surrounded a tiny grid of workers’ homes. Life continued pretty much unchanged into the 1980s.
Ultimately, cheaper pineapple production in Asia brought an end to Lanai’s heyday. In 1985, self-made billionaire David Murdock acquired the island in a merger (well, 98% of it anyway; the remaining 2% is owned by the government or longtime Lanai families). Murdock built two grand hotels, and almost overnight the plain, red-dirt pineapple plantation became one of the world’s top travel destinations. Murdock’s grand maneuver to replace agriculture with tourism never proved quite lucrative enough, however. In 2010, after years of six-figure losses, he sold his share of the island to the third-richest person in the United States, Larry Ellison.
The software tycoon made important moves to endear himself to the tiny, tight-knit community. He reopened the movie theater and the public swimming pool, closed for a decade. He built ball courts so that student athletes finally had somewhere to practice. He formed Pulama Lanai, a company tasked with directing the island’s future, and hired a Lanai native to run its chief operating office. Ellison’s ambitious plans include everything from sustainable agriculture to another über-exclusive resort at Halepalaoa on Lanai’s pristine eastern shore. Longtime residents, who have lived through several island makeovers, remain optimistic but cautious.
Visitors will find an island still in flux. But Lanai has plenty of charms to capture a traveler’s imagination, from wild dolphins jumping at Hulopoe Beach to hidden heiau (temples) that seem to vibrate with power.
If serious off-roading is your goal, consider renting an all-terrain vehicle (ATV) from Lanai Jeep Rental (www.lanaijeeprental.net; 808/280-7092) for $150 per day. John Price will give you a tour (see p. 476) or turn you loose, depending on your confidence. You can’t drive the ATV on paved roads, but you can go wild exploring the island’s red dirt tracks—which lead to its most pristine sites. Bonus: you don’t have to refill the ATV’s tank before returning. Price also rents Jeep Wranglers for $140 per day. He’ll deliver yours to the harbor or wherever you are staying.
With all of that in mind, if you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, Rabaca’s Limousine Service (see above) is a terrific option for a short romp around the island. Knowledgeable local drivers will navigate the rough roads for you, visiting Shipwreck Beach, Keahiakawelo, and even Keomoku Village in roomy Suburbans. Trips run 3½ hours and cost $80 per person (minimum two guests). If you’ve got a larger group, Rabaca’s will chauffer the lot of you around in a six-person SUV for $110 per hour. Fifteen-passenger vans go for $150 per hour; they stay on paved roads.
Alternately, book the all-inclusive “4x4 Trekker Tour” package from Expeditions (www.go-lanai.com; 808/695-2624; from $181), which includes ferry travel to Lanai.
Whether or not you rent a car, sooner or later you’ll find yourself at the Lanai Plantation Store, 1036 Lanai Ave. ( 808/565-7227 ext. 3). Get directions, maps, and all the local gossip at this all-in-one grocery, gourmet deli, gas station, rental-car agency, and souvenir shop. It’s also a good place to fill your water jugs: A reverse-osmosis water dispenser is just out front.
Note: Lanai is part of Maui County.
Doctors & Dentists For over-the-counter prescriptions and vaccines, head to Rainbow Pharmacy right in Dole Park (www,rainbowpharmacy.co; 431 7th St., Lanai City; 808/565-9332). If you need a doctor, contact the Straub Lanai Family Health Center ( 808/565-6423) or the Lanai Community Hospital ( 808/565-8450). Next door to the Lanai Cultural & Heritage Center, Hawaii Dental Clinic (www.hawaiidentalclinic.com; 730 Lanai Ave. Suite 101, Lanai City 808/565-6418) offers full services from 8am to 6pm.
Emergencies In case of emergencies, call the police, fire department, or ambulance services at 911, or the Poison Control Center at 800/222-1222. For non-emergencies, call the police at 808/565-6428.
Weather For both land and sea conditions, visit the National Weather Service website (www.prh.noaa.gov) and type Lanai, Hawaii, in the search box.
You’ll need an off-road vehicle to reach the sights listed below. Four-wheel-drive rentals on Lanai are expensive—but worth it for a day or two of adventure. For details on vehicle rentals, see “Getting Around,” above.
Your first stop on Lanai (perhaps after baptizing yourself at Hulopoe Beach) should be the Lanai Culture & Heritage Center 
, 730 Lanai Ave. (www.lanaichc.org; 808/565-7177), located in the heart of town. Orient yourself to the island’s cultural and natural history at this tiny, well-curated museum. Learn how indigenous Hawaiians navigated thousands of miles of Pacific Ocean, see relics of the Dole plantation years, and get directions to the island’s petroglyph fields. Even better, ask the docents to recount local legends passed down in their families. A visit is guaranteed to make your explorations of Lanai that much richer.
Note: You’ll find the following attractions on the “Lanai” map on p. 463.
Kanepuu Preserve
This ancient grove on Lanai’s western plateau is the island’s last remaining dryland forest, containing 48 native species. A self-guided hike allows visitors to see the rare trees and shrubs that once covered the dry lowlands of all the main Hawaiian Islands. Elsewhere these species have succumbed to axis deer, agriculture, or “progress.” The botanical marvels growing within this protected reserve include olopua (Hawaiian olive), lama (Hawaiian ebony), ma‘o hau hele (a Hawaiian hibiscus), and nānū (Hawaiian gardenia). Kanepuu is easily reached via 4WD. Head west from Koele Lodge on Polihua Road; in about 1¾ miles, you’ll see the fenced area on the left.
Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) 
A four-wheel-drive dirt road leads out of Lanai City, through fallow pineapple fields, past the Kanepuu Preserve (see above) to Keahiakawelo. The rugged beauty of this place is punctuated by boulders strewn by volcanic forces and sculpted by the elements into varying shapes and colors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers, and yellows.
Modern visitors nicknamed this otherworldly landscape “the Garden of the Gods,” but its ancient Hawaiian name, Ke-ahi-a-kawelo, means “the fire of Kawelo.” According to legend, it’s the site of a sorcerers’ battle. Kawelo, a powerful kahuna (priest) noticed that the people and animals of Lanai were falling ill. He traced their sickness to smoke coming from the neighboring island of Molokai. There, an ill-intentioned priest, Lanikaula, sat chanting over a fire. Kawelo started a fire of his own, here at Keahiakawelo, and tossed some of Lanikaula’s excrement into the flames. The smoke turned purple, Lanikaula perished, and health and prosperity returned to Lanai.
Take the dusty, bumpy drive out to Keahiakewalo early in the morning or just before sunset, when the light casts eerie shadows on the mysterious lava formations. Drive west from Koele Lodge on Polihua Road; in about 2 miles, you’ll see a hand-painted sign pointing left down a one-lane, red-dirt road through a kiawe forest to the large stone sign. Don’t stack rocks or otherwise disturb this interesting site; leave everything as you found it.
Luahiwa Petroglyph Field 
Lanai is second only to the Big Island in its wealth of prehistoric rock art, but you’ll have to search a little to find it. Some of the best examples are on the outskirts of Lanai City, on a hillside site known as Luahiwa Petroglyph Field. The characters incised on 13 boulders in this grassy 3-acre knoll include a running man, a canoe, turtles, and curly-tailed dogs (a latter-day wag put a leash on one).
To get here, take Manele Road from Lanai City toward Hulopoe Beach. About 2 miles out of town, you’ll see a pump house on the left. Look up on the hillside for a cluster of dark boulders—the petroglyphs are there, but you’ll have to zigzag to get to them. Two dirt roads lead off of Manele Road, on either side of the pump house. Take the first one, which leads straight toward the hillside. After about 1 mile, you’ll come to a fork. Head right. Drive for another ½ mile. At the first V in the road, take a sharp left and double back the way you came, this time on an upper road. After about ¼ mile; you’ll come to the large cluster of boulders on the right. It’s just a short walk up the cliffs (wear walking or hiking shoes) to the petroglyphs. Exit the same way you came. Go between 3pm and sunset for ideal viewing and photo ops. Don’t touch the petroglyphs or climb on the rocks; these cultural resources are very fragile.
off the tourist trail: Eastside Lanai
If you’ve got good weather and a trusty 4×4 vehicle, go find adventure on Lanai’s untamed east side. Bring snacks and extra water; there are no facilities out here and cell service is scarce. Follow Keomoku Road for 8 miles to the coast. Here the road turns to dirt, mud, or sand; proceed with caution. Head left to find Shipwreck Beach and the Kukui Point petroglyphs (p. 473).
Venture right to explore a string of empty beaches and abandoned villages, including Keomoku—about 5¾ miles down the rough-and-tumble dirt road. This former ranching and fishing community of 2,000 was home to the first non-Hawaiian settlement on Lanai. A ghost town since the mid-1950s, it dried up after droughts killed off the Maunalei Sugar Company. Check out Ka Lanakila, the sweetly restored church that dates back to 1903.
Continue another 2 miles to the deserted remains of Club Lanai. A lonely pier stretches into the Pacific from a golden-sand beach populated by coconut palms, a few gazebos, and an empty bar floating in a lagoon. You can pretend you’re on the set of Gilligan’s Island here. This secluded area’s Hawaiian name, Halepaloa, means “whale ivory house.” Historians speculate that the teeth and bones of a sperm whale—rare in these waters—once washed ashore here. If you have time, press on to Lopa Beach (good for surfing, not for swimming). The road ends at Naha Beach with its ancient fishponds. Return the way you came and take any trash with you.
Munro Trail 
In the first golden rays of dawn, when owls swoop silently over the abandoned pineapple fields, take a peek at Mount Lanaihale, the 3,370-foot summit of Lanai. If it’s clear, hop into a 4×4 and head for the Munro Trail, the narrow, winding ridge trail that runs across Lanai’s razorback spine to its peak. From here, you may get a rare treat: On a clear day, you can see most of the main islands in the Hawaiian chain.
But if it’s raining, forget it. On rainy days, the Munro Trail becomes slick and boggy with major washouts. Rainy-day excursions often end with a rental jeep on the hook of the island’s lone tow truck—and a $250 tow charge. You could even slide off into a major gulch and never be found, so don’t try it. But in late August and September, when trade winds stop blowing and the air over the islands stalls in what’s called a kona condition, Mount Lanaihale’s suddenly visible summit becomes an irresistible attraction.
Look for a red-dirt road off Manele Road (Hwy. 440), about 5 miles south of Lanai City; turn left and head up the ridgeline. No sign marks the peak, so you’ll have to keep an eye out. Look for a wide spot in the road and a clearing that falls sharply to the sea. From here you can also see silver domes of Space City atop the summit of Haleakala on Maui; Puu Moaulanui, the tongue-twisting summit of Kahoolawe; the tiny crescent of Molokini; and, looming above the clouds, Mauna Kea on the Big Island. At another clearing farther along the thickly forested ridge, all of Molokai, including the 4,961-foot summit of Kamakou and the faint outline of Oahu (more than 30 miles across the sea), are visible. For details on hiking the trail, see “Hiking” on p. 470.
Kaunolu Village
Out on Lanai’s nearly vertical, Gibraltar-like sea cliffs is an old royal compound and fishing village. Now a national historic landmark and one of Hawaii’s most treasured ruins, it’s believed to have been inhabited by King Kamehameha the Great and hundreds of his closest followers about 200 years ago.
It’s a hot, dry, 3-mile 4×4 drive from Lanai City to Kaunolu, but the mini-expedition is worth it. Take plenty of water, don a hat for protection against the sun, and wear sturdy shoes. Signs explain the sacred site’s importance. Ruins of 86 house platforms and 35 stone shelters have been identified on both sides of Kaunolu Gulch. The residential complex also includes the Halulu Heiau temple, named after a mythical man-eating bird. The king’s royal retreat is thought to have stood on the eastern edge of Kaunolu Gulch, overlooking the rocky shore facing Kahekili’s Leap. Chiefs leapt from the 62-foot-high perch as a show of bravado. Nearby are burial caves, a fishing shrine, a lookout tower, and warrior-like stick figures—petroglyphs—carved on boulders. Just offshore stands the telltale fin of little Shark Island, a popular dive spot that teems with bright tropical fish and, frequently, sharks.
From Lanai City, take Kaumalapau Highway past the airport. Look for a carved boulder on the left side of the road. Turn left onto a dirt road (Kaupili Rd.) and drive east until you see another carved boulder. Turn right, toward the ocean. Tip: On your way out, turn right to continue on Kaupili Road. It meets with Hulopoe Drive, a shortcut to Manele Bay.
If you like big, wide, empty, gold-sand beaches and crystal-clear, cobalt-blue water full of bright tropical fish—and who doesn’t?— Lanai is your place. With 18 miles of sandy shoreline, Lanai has some of Hawaii’s least crowded and most interesting beaches.
Hulopoe Beach
Hulopoe is one of the loveliest beaches in all of Hawaii. Palm-fringed golden sand is bordered by black-lava fingers, which protect swimmers from ocean currents. The bay at the foot of the Four Seasons Resort Lanai is a protected marine preserve, with schools of colorful fish, spinner dolphins, and humpback whales that cruise by in winter and often stop to put on a show. The water is perfect for snorkeling, swimming, or just lolling about; the water temperature is usually in the mid-70s (mid-20s Celsius). Swells kick up slightly in winter. Hulopoe is also Lanai’s premier beach park, with a grassy lawn, picnic tables, barbecue grills, restrooms, showers, and ample parking. You can camp here, too.
Ka Lanakila church in Keomoku
Hulopoe’s Tide Pools Some of the best tide pools in Hawaii are found along the south shore of Hulopoe Bay. These submerged pockets of lava rock are full of strange creatures such as asteroids (sea stars) and holothurians (sea cucumbers), not to mention spaghetti worms, barber pole shrimp, and Hawaii’s favorite local delicacy, the opihi, a tasty morsel also known as the limpet. Youngsters enjoy swimming in the enlarged tide pool at the eastern edge of the bay. A few tips: When you explore tide pools, do so at low tide. Never turn your back on the waves. Wear tennis shoes or reef walkers, as wet rocks are slippery. Collecting specimens in this marine preserve is forbidden, so don’t take any souvenirs home.
Polihua Beach
According to legend, a mythical sea turtle once hauled herself out of the water to lay her eggs in the deep sand at Polihua, or “egg nest.” This deserted beach lies at the end of Polihua Road, a 4-mile jeep trail. When it isn’t windy, this huge, empty stretch on Lanai’s northwestern shore is ideal for beachcombing, fishing, or indulging fantasies of being marooned on a desert island. When the wind is blowing, beware—you’ll be sandblasted. Look for treasures in the flotsam and (during winter months) whales on the horizon. There are no facilities except fishermen’s huts and driftwood shelters. Bring water and sunscreen. Strong currents and undertow make the water unsafe for swimming.
Shipwreck Beach
This 8-mile-long windswept strand on Lanai’s northeastern shore—named for the rusty ship Liberty stuck on the coral reef—is a sailor’s nightmare and a beachcomber’s dream. The strong currents yield all sorts of sea debris, from hand-blown glass fishing floats and paper nautilus shells to lots of junk. Shipwreck isn’t good for swimming, but is a great place to spot whales from December to April, when Hawaiian humpbacks cruise in from Alaska. The road to the beach is paved most of the way, but you really need a four-wheel-drive to get down here. At the end of the road, you’ll find a trail that leads about 200 yards inland to the Kukui Point petroglyphs; follow the stacked rock ahu (altars) to the large boulders. Respect this historic site by not adding anything to it or taking anything away. Most important, do not touch the petroglyphs.
Shipwreck Beach
Because Lanai lacks major development and experiences very little rainfall/runoff, it typically boasts Hawaii’s best water clarity. The coast is washed clean daily by strong sea currents, which can wash you away, too, if you aren’t careful where you jump in. Most of the aquatic adventures—swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving—are centered on the somewhat protected west coast, particularly around Hulopoe Bay. Spinner dolphins often cruise this coast, traveling in large pods and leaping from the water to twirl mid-air. Green sea turtles, humpback whales, and monk seals make appearances, too. For surf breaks, you’ll head to the untamed east shore.
Boat trips—along with most island activities—can be booked at the Four Seasons’ Island Adventure Center (1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City; 808/565-2072). Their new vendor, Lanai Ocean Sports (www.lanaioceansports.com 808/866-8256), took over the Trilogy vessels and crew—so you can expect the same top-notch service. They offer sailing and snorkeling tours aboard a decked-out 49’ catamaran and chartered adventures on Kalulu, a 39’ rigid-hull inflatable. The six-person raft can plow through the sea at 50mph; it previously chased yachts in the Americas Cup. Keep in mind that during “festive season” (mid-December through the first week of January) the boats are fully committed to Four Seasons guests.
Lanai’s south and west coastlines offer spectacular vistas: dramatic sea cliffs punctuated by hidden caves, quiet coves, and mysterious sea stacks. You can put kayaks in at Manele or Kaumalapau Harbor. Both are working harbors, but not very busy. From Kaumalapau, paddle roughly two-and-a-half miles north to reach Nanahoa, a cluster of needle-like sea stacks. It’s a picturesque lunch stop, with a shady cave and rocky apron to pull up onto for a landing. The snorkeling around these islets can be magical. Check weather conditions and currents before you go. You can rent kayaks and gear from Lanai Adventure Club (http://jeeplanai.net; 800/565-7373). They also offer 4-hour guided tours from 8am to noon; call for pricing.
Sailing & Whale-Watching
Every evening, Lanai Ocean Sports (see above) offers a two-hour sunset sail. Cruise past sea cliffs and unspoiled coastline while spinner dolphins and flying fish dart ahead of the bow. You’ll arrive at Puu Pehe, Sweetheart Rock, just in time for the best sunset shots. The trip costs $100, inclusive of snacks, beverages, and Dramamine for those suffering from seasickness.
During whale season (Dec–Mar), Hawaiian humpback whales put on impressive shows, breaching, slapping their pectoral fins, and singing complex melodies underwater. You can view them from just about any spot on Lanai, particularly on the eastside, looking toward Maui.
If you want to witness whales up close, hop aboard Lanai Ocean Sports’ catamaran for two-hour whale-spotting tour. Scan the horizon for the massive marine mammals, which are almost guaranteed to surface nearby with gusty exhalations. The captain and crew are certified naturalists who make each trip educational. The cost and amenities are the same as the sunset sails.
Snorkeling Tours
To snorkel on your own, simply strap on a mask and head out from Hulopoe Beach. The marine-life conservation area is Lanai’s best snorkeling spot; fish are abundant in the bay and marine mammals regularly swim by. Try the lava-rock points at either end of the beach and around the tide pools.
Venture further afield with Lanai Ocean Sports (see above) aboard their 49’ sailing catamaran. The captains will steer you alongside the island’s dramatic southern coast to a site near the Kaunolu lighthouse. The 3-hour snorkel trips cost $150 and include sandwiches, cookies, cocktails and local microbrews. Help yourself to the stand-up paddleboards and organic Coola sunscreen.
Scuba Diving
Two of Hawaii’s best-known dive spots are found in Lanai’s clear waters, just off the south shore: Cathedrals I and II, so named because the sun lights up an underwater grotto like a magnificent church. Sadly, the on-island scuba options have shrunk over the years. Lanai Ocean Sports (see above) is your best bet. You can charter Kalulu for a private two-tank dive, or tag along on a snorkel trip for a one-tank dive. Certified divers only; make sure you bring your PADI or NAU card.
Sport Fishing
Sportfishers can charter Kalulu, a 39’ rigid-hull inflatable from Lanai Ocean Sports (see above). It’s $1600 for several hours of trolling.
Surfing/Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP)
If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to surf, let instructor and surfing champion Nick Palumbo take you on a 4WD surfing safari to a secluded surf spot on the island’s rugged eastside. He’ll have you up and riding the waves in no time. His Lanai Surf School & Surf Safari (www.lanaisurfsafari.com; 808/649-0739) offers 5-hour surf safaris, which include four-wheel-drive transportation to Lopa Beach, refreshments, and “a really good time.” The adventures cost $200 per person, minimum of two guests. He also offers stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) lessons at Hulopoe Beach, 2 hours for $100.
The Four Seasons Resort Lanai operates the Island Adventure Center, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City ( 808/565-2072), where resort guests and the general public can book an assortment of activities: golf, sporting clays, off-road tours, horseback rides, sunset sails, and more. Located next door to the resort’s tennis courts, it’s open from 6am to 6pm.
ATV Tours
If you’re feeling extra adventurous, call John Price at Lanai Jeep Rental (www.lanaijeeprental.net; 808/280-7092). He offers guided all-terrain vehicle (ATV) tours far afield—up the forested Munro Trail to the island’s summit and out to the Garden of Gods. The ATVs can’t travel on roads, but they can go many places cars can’t—especially in wet and muddy weather. Wear clothes you’re willing to sacrifice to Lanai’s red dirt (long pants and closed-toe shoes) and bring a jacket (rain is frequent). Tours are $150 and the ATV is yours for 24 hours.
The Four Seasons’ Island Adventure Center (1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City; 808/565-2072) offers the Cadillac version of this adventure. Slide on a sleek helmet, balaclava, and goggles, and mount your Polaris Razor 1000; the off-road suspension is so smooth you’ll hardly notice the boulders. Local guides will chauffeur you into the forested uplands above Palawai Basin where you’ll explore an ancient agricultural temple, view petroglyphs, and dodge spotted deer. Same as above, you’ll need long pants, closed-toed shoes, a jacket, and clothes that can handle dirt. Two-hour tours leave twice daily at 9am and 1:30pm and cost $247.50 per person or $395 per couple.
Biking
Lanai Cycles (www.lanaicycles.com; 808/563-0535) offers terrific, 3½-hour guided bike tours of off-the-beaten-path locales. Start your adventure in the misty clouds above Lanai City. Hop on a specialized Sirrus multiuse bike and coast 7 miles down to the island’s scenic east coast. A support vehicle will shuttle you back up to town, where you can fuel up on smoothies or coffee before taking off again, this time down to Kuamalapau Harbor or Shipwreck Beach. Tours cost $180 and are small and personalized.
Golf
Cavendish Golf Course This quirky par-36, 9-hole public course lacks not only a clubhouse and club pros, but also tee times, scorecards, and club rentals. To play, just show up, put a donation into the little wooden box next to the first tee, and hit away. The 3,071-yard, E. B. Cavendish–designed course was built by the Dole plantation in 1947 for its employees. The greens are a bit bumpy, but the views of Lanai are great and the temperatures usually quite mild.
Off of Kaunaoa Dr., next to the Lodge at Koele, Lanai City. Greens fees by donation.
The Challenge at Manele Designed by Jack Nicklaus, this target-style, desert-links course, is one of the most challenging courses in the state. Check out some of the course rules: no retrieving golf balls from the 150-foot cliffs on the ocean holes 12, 13, or 17, and all whales, axis deer, and other wild animals are considered immovable obstructions. That’s just a hint of the unique experience you’ll have on this starkly beautiful oceanfront course, which is routed among lava outcroppings, archaeological sites, and kiawe groves. The five sets of staggered tees pose a challenge to everyone from the casual golfer to the pro. The staff hands out complimentary Bloody Marys and screwdivers to those who partake, and new carts come with Bluetooth, so you can stream your own music. Facilities include a clubhouse, pro shop, rentals, practice area, lockers, and showers.
Next to the Four Seasons Resort Lanai. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 
808/565-2222. Greens fees $425 ($350 for guests). Club rentals $80 per day.
Horseback Riding
Get a taste of the paniolo (cowboy) life on a horseback tour. Sign up for an upland trail ride at the Island Adventure Center, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City ( 808/565-2072), where you’ll catch a shuttle up to Koele and meet your steed. On horseback, you’ll meander through guava groves and past ironwood trees; catch glimpses of spotted deer, wild turkeys, and quail; and end with panoramic views of Maui and Lanai. The trails are dusty and rain is frequent; wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty and bring a light jacket. Long pants and closed-toe shoes are required. Daily tours start at 9am, 11am and 1pm, last 1½ hours, and cost $195 per person. Private rides are available for $225 per person per hour.
Even if you don’t book a ride, you may want to visit the stables to “Meet the Minis.” Visitors who drop by around lunchtime can help groom the twelve miniature horses and four donkeys.
Hiking
Kapihaa Trail An old fisherman’s trail starts at Manele Bay and snakes along the scenic coastline. This easy hike will expose you to Lanai’s unique geography and many unusual native Hawaiian coastal plants. The back-and-forth trek takes around 90 minutes. Venture out on your own or, if you’re a Four Seasons hotel guest, arrange a complimentary guided hike through the concierge (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2000). You can also download an informative brochure from the Lanai Visitor Center website (www.lanaichc.org/kapihaa.html).
Koloiki Ridge Hike The leisurely 2-hour self-guided hike starts by the reflecting pool in the backyard of the Lodge at Koele and takes you on a 5-mile loop through Norfolk Island pines, into Hulopoe Valley, past wild ginger, and up to Koloiki Ridge, with its panoramic view of Maunalei Valley and the islands of Molokai and Maui in the distance. Go in the morning; by afternoon, the clouds usually roll in, marring visibility at the top and increasing your chance of being caught in a downpour. The path isn’t clearly marked, so ask the concierge at the Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2000) for a free map, or sign up for a guided hike. It’s considered moderate, with some uphill and downhill hiking.
Munro Trail This tough, 11-mile (round-trip) uphill climb through groves of Norfolk pines is a lung-buster, but if you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Molokai, Maui, Kahoolawe, and Hawaii Island. Figure on 7 hours. The trail begins at Lanai Cemetery (interesting in its own right) along Keomoku Road (Hwy. 44) and follows Lanai’s ancient caldera rim, ending up at the island’s highest point, Lanaihale. Go in the morning for the best visibility. After 4 miles, you’ll get a view of Lanai City. The weary retrace their steps from here, while the more determined go the last 1.25 miles to the top. Diehards head down Lanai’s steep south-crater rim to join the highway to Manele Bay. For more details on the Munro Trail—including four-wheel-driving it to the top—see “Munro Trail” (p. 469).
Puu Pehe Skirt along Hulopoe Bay to scale the cliff on its southern edge (it’s a gentle slope, not a steep climb). This 20-minute hike leads above the turquoise-gray waters of Shark’s Cove to the dramatic point overlooking Puu Pehe, or Sweetheart’s Rock. The picturesque islet rises 80 feet from the sea and is home to nesting seabirds. Look closely and you’ll see an‘ahu, altar of rocks at the top. According to legend, a young Lanai warrior hid his beautiful wife in a sea cave at the base of the cliffs here. One day a storm flooded the cave and she drowned. Grief-stricken, her beloved climbed the sheer face of the islet, carrying her body. He buried her, then jumped to his death in the pounding surf below.
Sporting Clays
Go on, take a crack at the clay disk hurtling through the air . . . you might just surprise yourself by shattering it! Both sharpshooters and novices will enjoy this 14-station shooting clay course in the Lanai uplands. Zip from station to station beneath the whispering ironwood trees in your own golf cart. Each target mimics the movement of a different bird or rabbit; shots grow increasingly difficult as the course progresses. Private lessons start at $125 per person for 1 hour. Experienced shooters can do the course on their own. The complex includes an archery range and options for kids. Wear closed-toe shoes and bring a jacket. Book at the Four Seasons’ Island Adventure Center (1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City; 808/565-2072).
Tennis
Public courts, lit for night play, are available in Lanai City at no charge; call 808/565-6979 for reservations. If you’re staying at the Four Seasons, you can take advantage of the upgraded “tennis garden,” with its two Plexi-Pave cushion courts and Har-Tru green clay court—the same used by the pros. Court access comes with complimentary use of Prince rackets, balls, and bottled water—even shoes if you need them.
Accommodations on Lanai are limited: You can go for broke at the luxurious Four Seasons, book a plantation-style room at the Hotel Lanai, or camp under the stars at Hulopoe Beach Park. When you stay with the Four Seasons, you’re greeted at the airport or ferry with chilled towels and shuttled off in style.
Expensive
Four Seasons Resort Lanai A conch shell’s trumpeting call announces your arrival at this oceanfront retreat, where everyone magically knows your name—even the computer screen in your bathroom mirror. Every inch of this opulent oasis reflects the latest in tech-savvy luxury, from the wristband room keys to the Toto toilets. Service is impeccable: The concierge texts you when dolphins or whales appear in the bay. Beach attendants set up umbrellas in the sand for you, spritz you with Evian, and deliver popsicles.
Guest rooms are large and luxurious, with blackout shades that you can control with a flick of your hand. Suites have Japanese cedar tubs and views that stretch on forever. The resort’s two wings overlook Hulopoe Beach and are lushly landscaped with waterfalls, koi-filled lotus ponds, and artwork tucked into every corner. Rare Polynesian artifacts purchased from the Bishop Museum decorate the main lobby’s lower level, which is home to two fantastic restaurants: Nobu Lanai 
and One Forty . Other amenities include a first-rate adventure center, shuffleboard tables in the chic sports bar, and an exercise room with a view so grand you’ll forget you’re burning calories on a stationary bike. Inspired by indigenous healing traditions, the resort’s Hawanawna Spa offers traditional lomi lomi Hawaiian massages, seaweed body wraps, facials, and salon services in serene treatment rooms. Guests have free access to the spa facility’s saunas and steam rooms. The “Kids for All Seasons” childcare programs activities are excellent, but you’ll probably have trouble pulling your youngsters away from the beach and tide pools.
1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 800/321-4666 or 808/565-2000. 168 rooms, 45 suites. Doubles from $1,075; suites from $2,200. Amenities: 5 restaurants; bar with live music; babysitting; children’s program; concierge; fitness center w/classes; golf at Jack Nicklaus–designed Challenge at Manele; whirlpools; 2 pools; room service; full spa; tennis courts; watersports equipment; Wi-Fi (free or premium for $20/day).
Moderate
Hotel Lanai This boutique hotel in the heart of town is perfect for families and other vacationers who can’t afford to spend a small fortune but still want to experience Lanai. If you’re looking for the old-time aloha that the island is famous for, this is your place. Built in the 1920s, it has retained its quaint, plantation-era character.
That character comes at a price: Guest rooms are small and noise travels. But the comfy beds come with Hawaiian quilts, and the ceiling fans do a more than adequate job in the cooler climate. The popular Lanai units are slightly larger and share a furnished deck that faces Dole Park. The one-bedroom cottage costs slightly more than those rooms and boasts the added amenities of a private yard, living room with TV, and a bathtub. All of Lanai City is within walking distance. The in-house restaurant, Lanai City Bar & Grille, is a social spot where visitors mingle with locals in the bar, talking or playing the ukulele long into the night. Tip: room rates are cheaper on weekdays.
828 Lanai Ave., Lanai City. www.hotellanai.com. 800/795-7211 or 808/565-7211. 10 units, 1 cottage. $185–$310 double; $285–$310 cottage, $55 for child. Rates include continental breakfast. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; access to golf courses; complimentary beach equipment; nearby tennis courts; free Wi-Fi.
Inexpensive
Dreams Come True Susan and Michael Hunter have operated this bed-and-breakfast in the heart of Lanai City for 30-plus years. The nicely renovated 1925 plantation house is roomy and quaint, with four bedrooms, four bathrooms, and a backyard orchard of papaya, banana, and avocado trees. Among the many perks: marble bathrooms, fresh lilikoi juice served with the delicious breakfast each morning, and private four-wheel-drive rentals—a real bonus on this car-deficient island!
1168 Lanai Ave., Lanai City. https://dreamscometruelanai.com 808/565-6961 or 808/565-7211. 4 rooms, or entire house. Double $141–$160; $564 entire house, plus $100 cleaning fee. Rates include continental breakfast. Amenities: Car rental; concierge; laundry; barbecue; free Wi-Fi.
Camping at Hulopoe Beach Park
There is only one legal place to camp on Lanai, but it’s a beauty. Hulopoe Beach Park (www.lanai96763.com/information; 808/215-1107) has eight campsites on the shady grass lawn fronting this idyllic white-sand beach. Facilities include restrooms, showers, barbecues, and picnic tables. Email info@lanaibeachpark.com 72 hours in advance to request a permit. You’ll pay an $80 permit fee, which covers four people for 3 nights. Payment is by credit card only. Permits are issued in person, first-come, first-served, major holidays excluded.
Lanai offers dining experiences on two ends of the spectrum, from humble ma-and-pa eateries to world-class culinary adventures. The posh resort restaurants require deep pockets, and Lanai City has only a handful of other options.
Note: You’ll find the restaurants reviewed in this chapter on the “Lanai” map on p. 463.
Expensive
Nobu Lanai JAPANESE What does Lanai have in common with New York, Milan, Budapest, and Mexico City? All have a Nobu restaurant—a measure of how fun a place is, according to pop star Madonna. The best way to experience this epicurean phenomenon is to order the omakase—the chef’s tasting menu—for $120. Every dish is as delicious as it is artful: the smoked Wagyu gyoza with jalapeño miso, the immaculate plates of nigiri sushi, and the ahi avocado salad with greens grown at Alberta’s farm up the road. A new teppanyaki tasting menu—fifteen courses for $250—is available at one of the two teppan tables. The wine and cocktail list is top-notch, including exclusive Hokusetu sake and a sassy caipirinha with Pisco, fresh lime, ginger beer, and sprigs of shiso. Request a sake tasting, and the resident sake master will teach you the subtleties of a dry onigorishi and a dynamic daiginjo.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2832. Main courses $12–$58; 15-course tasting menu $120. Daily 6–9pm.
One Forty BREAKFAST/STEAK & SEAFOOD This breakfast buffet is probably the best in the state. Weeks later I’m still fantasizing about my One Forty breakfast overlooking sparkling Manele Bay. Imagine: a cornucopia of ripe tropical fruit, “make-your-own” omelet and smoothie stations, artisan cheese, charcuterie, four types of sausages, brioche French toast, eggs any which way, and a malasada machine. Not just lox, but house-cured ono with toasted bagels—now that is what I call breakfast. Dinner is also stellar. The pan-seared kampachi with forbidden rice, bok choy, and chimichurri sauce is perfectly on point, as is the 20-ounce bone-in ribeye (it should be, for a staggering $95). Order the chocolate soufflé early; it takes 20 minutes to bake and is worth every second of the wait.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2290. Breakfast main courses $12–$24; buffet $52; dinner $32–$95. Daily 6:30–10am and 6–9pm.
Moderate
Lanai City Bar & Grille AMERICAN This Lanai mainstay has three comfortable dining areas to choose from: the bright and lovely dining room, the bar with large-screen TVs and couchlike chairs, and the outdoor patio where Hawaiian musicians croon under the stars. Local venison is the star of the menu, which also features pasta, burgers, and specialty cocktails. The service is friendly if a tad slow. Bring a jacket if you want to sit outside by the fire pits and soak up the friendly Lanai ambience and fantastic live music.
At the Hotel Lanai, 828 Lanai Ave., Lanai City. www.lanaicitybarandgrille.com. 808/565-7212. Main courses $18–$34. Wed–Sat 5–9pm; Sun 8am–1pm.
Malibu Farms AMERICAN Lunch and dinner are glamorous affairs by the Four Seasons pool. After a midday swim, indulge in an acai bowl or skirt steak with quinoa. The emphasis here is on local, organic produce. At dusk, pull up a seat at the bar for a craft cocktail and watch the sun melt into the sea.
At the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd., Lanai City. www.fourseasons.com/lanai. 808/565-2092. Main courses $18–$34. Daily 11am–8:30pm.
Inexpensive
Blue Ginger Cafe COFFEE SHOP With its cheery curtains and oilcloth-covered tables, this humble eatery welcomes residents and locals alike in for eggs and Spam (a beloved breakfast meat in Hawaii), adequate bowls of saimin, epic plates of fried rice, fried chicken katsu, and decent egg/tuna/chicken salad sandwiches on homemade bread. The kitchen staff bakes all of its own breads and pastries, so burgers and sandwiches taste especially fresh. Hot out of the oven, the blueberry turnovers, cinnamon buns, and cookies are local favorites.
409 Seventh St. (at Ilima St.), Lanai City. www.bluegingercafelanai.com. 808/565-6363. Breakfast and lunch items under $17; dinner main courses under $18. Cash only. Thurs–Mon 6am–8pm; Tues–Wed 6am–2pm.
Coffee Works COFFEEHOUSE A biscuit’s toss from Dole Park, this cozy coffeehouse churns out excellent espresso drinks, amply loaded lox and bagels, acai bowls, ice cream, crepes, and sandwiches. The renovated plantation home is the perfect place to fuel up in the morning. It’s also Lanai City’s local watering hole—expect to see your waiter from dinner last night chatting away with the shuttle driver on the wide wooden deck. As you wait for your cappuccino, browse the gift items opposite the counter: T-shirts to prove you were here, tea infusers and pots, and island coffee beans.
604 Ilima St., Lanai City. www.coffeeworkshawaii.com. 808/565-6962. Most items under $15. Mon–Fri 7am–4pm; Sat 8am–3pm.
Lanai City Service DELI The island’s sole gas station now serves tasty deli sandwiches and a few hot items—more gourmet than you might expect. The paninis have upscale ingredients (the grilled cheese comes with Boursin, Swiss, provolone, and avocado) and you can build your own sandwich for just $7. If the bahn mi is on special, order that and head out for a picnic.
1036 Lanai Ave., Lanai City. 808/565-7227. Lunch items $4–$8. Daily 6am–6pm.
Pele’s Other Garden DELI/BISTRO The checkered floor and vanity license plates decorating the walls set an upbeat tone at this casual bistro. For lunch, dig into an avocado and feta wrap or an Italian hoagie. Cheese lovers will swoon over the thin-crusted four-cheese pizza—a gooey medley of mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and provolone. During happy hour, nosh on onion rings and coconut shrimp at one of Lanai City’s only bars. Enjoy cocktails, wine by the glass, or one of the dozen brews on tap. The atmosphere grows slightly more romantic after sundown, with white linens on the tables and twinkle lights over the outdoor seating.
811 Houston St., Lanai City. www.pelesothergarden.com. 808/565-9628. Main courses $9–$13 lunch, $17–$20 dinner; pizza from $9. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–8pm.
Lanai has limited shopping, but you can find some gems here. A stroll around Dole Park will yield original artwork, clothing, and souvenirs, and the Four Seasons has excellent boutiques. Just remember that groceries are delivered only once a week (Wednesday is barge day)—so plan your shopping accordingly. Shops are typically open from 9 to 6pm Monday to Saturday, more limited hours on Sundays.
Art
Lanai Art Center Established in 1989, the Lanai Art Center showcases works by Lanai residents, including evocative watercolor paintings of local landmarks, silkscreened clothing, and necklaces made of polished shells and bone. Often, the artists are at work in back. Check out the center’s reasonably priced workshops, where local and visiting artists offer instruction on everything from raku (Japanese pottery) to silk-printing, lei-making, and gyotaku (printing a real fish on your own T-shirt). 339 Seventh St., Lanai City. www.lanaiart.org. 808/565-7503.
Mike Carroll Gallery Oil painter Mike Carroll left a successful 22-year career as a professional artist in Chicago for a distinctly slower pace on Lanai. His gorgeous, color-saturated interpretations of local life and landscapes fill the walls of his eponymous gallery, which also sells original work by top Maui and Lanai artists. 443 Seventh St., Lanai City. www.mikecarrollgallery.com. 808/565-7122.
Edibles & Grocery Staples
Pine Isle Market The Honda family has operated this grocery for 6 decades. Three doors down from Richard’s (below), it carries everything that its competition doesn’t. A visit to both will net you a fine haul. Pine Isle specializes in locally caught fresh fish, but you can also find ice cream, canned goods, fresh herbs, toys, diapers, paint, and other essentials. Take a spin through the fishing section to ogle every imaginable lure. The market is open Monday to Saturday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 8am to 5pm. 356 Eighth St., Lanai City. 808/565-6488.
Richard’s Market Since 1946, this family grocery has been the go-to for dry goods, frozen meats and vegetables, liquor, paper products, cosmetics, utensils, and other miscellany. It got a major makeover, courtesy of Larry Ellison and Pulama Lanai. Now the inside resembles a miniature Whole Foods with an array of fancy chocolates and fine wines, mixed in with aloha shirts, and fold-up lauhala mats. Don’t faint when you see that milk costs $9 a gallon; that’s the price of paradise. The fish counter sells fantastic poke (raw seasoned fish). Open daily 6am to 10pm. 434 Eighth St., Lanai City. 808/565-3781.
The Local Gentry
Saturday Market From 8am to noon-ish each Saturday, the southeast corner of Dole Park turns into a farmer’s market. Lanai residents bring their homegrown fruits and vegetables, freshly baked pastries, plate lunches, and handicrafts to sell. If you want one of Juanita’s scrumptious pork flautas with a dollop of hot sauce, get here early. Other treats include fresh pressed juices from the bygone Anuenue Juice Bar and fantastic Thai summer rolls.
Gifts & Souvenirs
The Local Gentry Jenna (Gentry) Majkus manages to outfit her small but wonderful boutique with every wardrobe essential, from fancy lingerie to stylish chapeaux, for the whole family. If you need sunglasses, come here for polarized Maui Jims. 363 Seventh St., Lanai City. 808/565-9130.
Makamae/Pilina Just try to resist this resort shop’s bona-fide (read: top-dollar) treasures, including delicately wrapped freshwater pearl and diamond bead necklaces by Jordan Alexander, the cutest-ever bikinis and beach cover-ups by Hawaii’s own Letarte, and slinky dresses and housewares by Missoni (yes, you can fit that throw pillow in your suitcase). Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd. 808/565-2093.
Mua Loa Kids can’t help but ogle the old-fashioned candy jars at the resort’s extra-glam sundries shop. Come here for organic sunblock, colorful rash guards, and adorable, beach-y souvenirs. Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd. 808/565-2000.
Rainbow Pharmacy Like so many island institutions, this pharmacy plays dual roles. It’s not just a place to fill your prescription or stock up on earplugs and sunburn gel; you’ll also find quality locally made souvenirs here (including coin purses and clutches made with vintage Hawaiian fabric). From the counter in back, you can order an assortment of medicinal Chinese teas and—unpredictably—shave ice. 431 Seventh St., Lanai City. 808/565-9332.
The Four Seasons and Hotel Lanai are the island’s two mainstays for nightlife. Before sunset, head to Malibu Farm at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, 1 Manele Bay Rd. (www.fourseasons.com/lanai; 808/565-2093), for cocktails; after dark, you can shoot pool in the Sports Bar & Grill. Several nights a week, local musicians get together for jams at the Lanai City Bar & Grille 
at the Hotel Lanai, 828 Lanai Ave. (www.lanaicitybarandgrille.com; 808/565-7212). No trip to the island is complete without an evening spent here, enjoying Hawaiian harmonies under the stars alongside the locals and day-trip golfers. Bring a jacket if you plan to sit outside; the fire pits are cozy, but not quite enough to keep you warm.
Another fun option is the wonderfully renovated Lanai Theater, renamed Hale Keaka (www.lanai96763.com/showtimes; 456 Seventh St., Lanai City). Built in 1926, this iconic landmark shared films, live plays, and musical performances with the community for 80 years. The $4-million renovation kept the vintage feel but added air-conditioning, digital sound, two stages and screens, cushy seats, and more. Two films—an adult and a children’s selection—change weekly. The box office opens 1 hour prior to the start of each movie. And because it’s Lanai, you’ll find furikake and shoyu among the complimentary popcorn condiments.
