SLEEPING
SLEEPING
Buenos Aires’ huge tourist boom, which began in 2002 after the Argentine peso plummeted, has seen the city’s accommodation options increase exponentially to keep up with demand. A good range of international five-star hotels (such as Hilton, Park Hyatt and Four Seasons) already exists, and more are being built. Budget and midrange hotels are common, and many have upgraded their facilities. Boutique hotels and intimate guesthouses have mushroomed in neighborhoods like San Telmo and Palermo, and hostels are a dime a dozen. You shouldn’t have trouble finding the type of place you’re looking for, but it’s a good idea to make a reservation beforehand – especially during any holidays or the busy summer months of November through February.
Many places will help you with transportation to and from the airport if you reserve ahead of time. The most expensive hotels will take credit cards, but cheaper places may not (or may levy a surcharge for them). Some kind of breakfast, whether it be continental or buffet, is included at most hotels, guesthouses and hostels; the same goes for internet access, wi-fi and air-con. It’s always a good idea to ask beforehand if you need any amenity or service in particular.
The following accommodations are listed from most expensive to most affordable.
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THE CENTER
Buenos Aires’ center, along with being right in the middle of things, has the best range and largest quantity of accommodations in the city. Towards the north you’ll be close to the popular pedestrian streets of Florida and Lavalle, as well as the neighborhoods of Retiro and Recoleta (and their upscale boutiques). The Plaza de Mayo area contains the bustling banking district and many historical buildings, and is within walking distance to San Telmo. During the day the whole area is very busy, but nights are much calmer as businesspeople flee the center after work. Don’t expect creative cuisine in this area – for that you’ll have to head to Palermo.
PANAMERICANO HOTEL & RESORT
Map Hotel $$$
4348-5000; www.panamericano.us; Carlos Pellegrini 551; d AR$1050; 
Línea C Carlos Pellegrini
Your finest moment at this five-star hotel will likely be looking down on Av 9 de Julio from the 23rd-floor solarium, fresh from a dip in the pool. The 360 good-sized rooms are supremely elegant, boasting ultramodern touches like designer toilets, electric curtain openers and safe boxes large enough for laptops (including a plug for them, too). Also on the premises are the highly-regarded restaurant Tomo I and an atmospheric smoking pub. Book online for big discounts.
CLARIDGE HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
4314-7700; www.claridge.com.ar; Tucumán 535; d AR$635; Línea B Florida
One of downtown BA’s oldest and finest hotels, the Claridge also features a relatively grand entrance and lobby for the area, where space is at a premium. Rooms are truly elegant, with classical decoration and plush furnishings. Bigger suites come with Jacuzzis for soaking your tired feet after strolling up and down Florida, just a stone’s throw away – or you can always splash into the lovely outdoor pool. Gym, sauna and good spa services are available.
562 NOGARÓ BUENOS AIRES
Map Hotel $$$
4331-0091; www.562buenosaires.com; Av Julio Roca 562; d AR$545; Línea E Bolívar
Elegant and sophisticated designs and earth-tone colors make this four-star hotel a hip, upscale choice in the Plaza de Mayo area. Bathrooms are small but sleek (boasting trendy raised sinks), and the atmospherically lit rooms feature hardwood floors and contemporary flavor. There’s no restaurant, but the lobby bar will at least keep you hydrated.
NH CITY & TOWER
Map Hotel $$$
4121-6464; www.nh-hotels.com; Bolívar 160; d AR$525; Línea E Bolívar
The NH chain’s signature style is hip minimalism, with muted earth-tone colors and natural design accents. Expect classy, tasteful rooms and excellent services – this particular hotel has a small but beautiful rooftop swimming pool with city views. Prices vary at other NH branches, which include the NH Latino (Map; 4321-6700; Suipacha 309; Línea C/D Diagonal Norte), the NH Florida (Map; 4321-9850, San Martín 839; Línea C San Martín), the NH Jousten (Map; 4321-6750, Av Corrientes 280; Línea B LN Alem) and the NH Crillón (Map; 4310-2000, Av Santa Fe 796; Línea C San Martín).
ROCHESTER CLASSIC
Map Hotel $$$
4326-6076; www.rochester-hotel.com.ar; Esmeralda 542; d from AR$465; Línea C Lavalle
For an upscale choice in the center, try the four-star Rochester. Enter into the beautifully modern and elegant red, white and taupe lobby, where a good restaurant (and buffet breakfast) lies off to the side. The spacious rooms feature slick, contemporary decoration with luxurious touches, and some boast balconies. Suites come with kitchenette. For a more modest yet still classy three-star experience, head around the block to the affiliated Rochester Concept (Map; 4326-6076; Maipú 572).
GRAND KING HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
4393-4012; www.grandking.com.ar; Lavalle 560; d AR$440; Línea B Florida
As you enter the Grand King you’ll notice the strange ramp system in the lobby (but it works well enough as a practical design element). Not only do you get a conveniently central and quiet location on pedestrian Lavalle, but the current remodeling means you’ll also be sleeping in beautifully contemporary rooms painted in muted colors and boasting flat-panel TVs. It’s a great deal for now, but prices might rise when the remodel is complete.
HOTEL LAFAYETTE
Map Hotel $$
4393-9081; www.lafayettehotel.com.ar; Reconquista 546; d AR$370; Línea B Florida
Spacious, elegant rooms are on offer at this fine downtown hotel near the pedestrian streets of Florida and Lavalle. The bathrooms are small but efficient, while double-paned windows guarantee peace and quiet. Hotel amenities include a sauna and gym, a nice restaurant, and a fancy lobby with plant atrium, fireplace and sofas. There’s a good American-style breakfast, too.
HOTEL CARSSON
Map Hotel $$
4131-3800; www.hotelcarsson.com.ar; Viamonte 650; d AR$340; Línea C Lavalle
Walk down the long, stately hallway to the center of the block and this quiet, central hotel, which offers great value for its four-star services and location. Old-time, classic decor is the game here, from the elegant lobby to the simpler but very comfortable rooms – all with writing desks, and some with chandeliers. Get a ‘superior’ for more breathing space, as they don’t cost too much more. There’s also a conference salon for business travelers.
GRAN HOTEL ARGENTINO
Map Hotel $$
4334-4001; www.hotel-argentino.com.ar; Carlos Pellegrini 37; d AR$225; Línea C Av de Mayo
This modest, semi–art nouveau hotel, situated on busy Pellegrini, isn’t quite the three-star establishment it claims to be. It still has good, comfortable rooms with safe boxes, however, and the towels are fluffy enough. Get a room on a higher floor, facing Av 9 de Julio, for good views and lots of light – it’s also not as loud up there. There’s a restaurant on the 7th floor.
HOTEL FACÓN GRANDE
Map Hotel $$
4312-6360; www.hotelfacongrande.com; Reconquista 645; s/d AR$170/210; Línea B Florida
For those seeking a touch of the country in Buenos Aires, there’s this (slightly) gaucho-themed hotel. The lobby is decorated in rustic furniture and traditional textiles, and the helpful service personnel don ascots. Rooms are modern and comfortable, the location is good and there’s an intimate vibe that’s rare in similar-sized hotels. Get a top-floor room for views out toward Puerto Madero. Overall, a good deal for the price.
HOTEL EL CABILDO
Map Hotel $$
4322-6695; www.hotelelcabildo.com; Lavalle 748; s/d/ste AR$140/160/180; Línea C Lavalle
It’s outdated and there’s no breakfast, but for the location you’ll be happy to put up with a bit of peeling paint here and there. Rooms are basic and good-sized; bathrooms come with tubs. For fluffier towels and a fridge, go for the suite – it’s not much bigger, but it’s newer and nicer and only a few pesos more. You also won’t get much traffic noise, as it’s right on pedestrian Lavalle.
GRAN HOTEL HISPANO
Map Hotel $$
4345-2020; www.hhispano.com.ar; Av de Mayo 861; s/d AR$140/160; Línea A Piedras
The tiny stairway lobby here isn’t an impressive start, but upstairs there’s a sweet atrium area with covered patio. Rooms are carpeted and comfortable; those in front are the biggest, and those on the top floor command the most light. There’s also a pleasant outside sun-terrace. It’s a popular, well-tended place in a central location, so be sure to reserve ahead. There’s a 10% cash discount.
TUCUMÁN PALACE HOTEL
Map Hotel $$
4311-2298; www.tucumanpalace.com.ar; Tucumán 384; s/d AR$120/160; Línea B Florida
It might be old and past its prime, but it’s centrally located and you get fairly large, decent rooms, some with sofas and – at no extra charge – stained rugs. Some bathrooms are separated from the room by an interesting tile wall, while others have both open showers and hairdryers. Decorative balconies are another plus. Overall, it’s good value.
CLAN HOUSE B&B
Map Guesthouse $
4331-4448; www.bedandbreakfastclan.com.ar; Adolfo Alsina 917; s/d AR$115/125; Línea C Moreno
From its scooter-mounted reception desk to the lovely, wood-decked terrace, this stylish travelers’ pad rocks. Seventeen hip rooms, each with its own bathroom, offer tranquility and comfort. They’re all different – some don’t have windows and others overlook the terrace, so pick and choose. Three have their own bathrooms across the hallway and cost a bit less. There’s kitchen access, coffee and tea all day, and tasteful architectural touches. You’re welcome to hang out across the street and utilize the services at its main place, Hostel Clan (opposite).
HOTEL AVENIDA
Map Hotel $$
4331-4341; www.hotelav.com.ar; Av de Mayo 623; s/d AR$110/150; Línea A Peru
Just 34 small and plain but efficient rooms greet you at this friendly place. There’s a pleasant breakfast area and the location is great, right near Plaza de Mayo. Get a back room for more peace and quiet; the front ones have nice balconies but are noisy.
WORTH THE TRIP
Located in Montserrat, La Cayetana (Map; 4383-2230; www.lacayetanahotel.com.ar; México 1330; d AR$375-560; Línea E Independencia) is a beautiful 1850s guesthouse offering 11 simple, colorful rooms, all decorated differently with rustic yet upscale furniture. Some of the bigger ones have a loft. They all surround three lovely outdoor patios, which are accented with original tiles and leafy plants – the last one has a grassy garden. Breakfast is also special, with goodies like fresh fruit, yogurt and eggs to order. It’s a quiet little paradise in an up-and-coming neighborhood.
Friendly La Menesunda (Map; 4957-0946; www.lamenesundahostel.com.ar; Boedo 742; dm AR$31-34, s/d AR$90/125; Linea E Boedo) is a well-run hostel located in bohemian Boedo, and a great choice for those who don’t mind being in a less touristy yet still vibrant part of the city. It’s on a busy avenue, but in the middle of the block – traffic noise isn’t an issue. A long hallway opens up to a pleasant patio area surrounded by two floors of spacious dorms and large private rooms. Nearby is the artsy TV lounge and large kitchen, and upstairs is another smaller, tiled patio with barbecue and potted plants.
GOYA HOTEL
Map Hotel $
4322-9269; www.goyahotel.com.ar; Suipacha 748; s/d from AR$90/120; Línea C Lavalle
Centrally located and fairly quiet, the Goya features decent rooms for its price range. ‘Classic’ rooms have open showers, which means the toilet gets wet when you bathe. For bathtubs, go for the ‘superior’ room, which are generally bigger overall. The main advantage of the ‘presidencial’ are the tub jets – the concept of luxury doesn’t really exist here, but you’ll be comfortable enough.
HOTEL ALCAZAR
Map Hotel $
4345-0926; Av de Mayo 935; s/d AR$90/110; Línea A Piedras
One of BA’s best budget deals, the old Alcazar now has awesome, remodeled rooms (get one with an outside window) that are clean and great value. It’s centrally located on Av de Mayo and just steps away from the famous Café Tortoni, which is handy since breakfast isn’t included. There are some nice inside patios, also. Reserve ahead.
HOTEL MAIPÚ
Map Hotel $
4322-5142; Maipú 735; s/d AR$75/105, without bathroom AR$60/80; Línea C Lavalle
Head on up the old marble staircase into the gloomy, tiled hallway. Your senses will tingle at the faded glory of this classic old building, once owned by the Anchorenas, a very wealthy and aristocratic Argentine family. Lovely original tiles and high ceilings add charm to these budget lodgings, while new mattresses, cable TV and a convenient location are other pluses. There’s no breakfast, but it’s an inexpensive, clean and friendly place.
V & S HOSTEL CLUB
Map Hostel $
4322-0994; www.hostelclub.com; Viamonte 887; dm AR$38-44, d AR$200; Línea C Lavalle
Still one of the best in town, this attractive hostel is located in a pleasant older building. There’s a large-screen TV in the cozy common space, which is a kitchen-cum-dining and lobby area, perfect for easy socializing. Dorms are good-sized and each has its own bathroom. The hotel-quality doubles are exceptionally classy, and the whole place has a tasteful atmosphere and good security – as well as a great, central location.
HI OBELISCO SUITES
Map Hostel $
4328-4040; www.hihostels.com; Av Corrientes 830; dm AR$33, s/d AR$70/95; Línea B Carlos Pellegrini
Located in a renovated apartment building, this large hostel features large dorms with six to eight beds and pleasantly nice private rooms. Every three rooms (both dorms and privates) share one bathroom and a kitchenette, which means plenty of space for everyone. Common areas include a trendy bar/lounge area with pool table and separate small rooms for TV-watching and Spanish classes. Lots of activities are on offer; buy an HI card (AR$43) for a 10% discount.
HOSTEL CLAN
Map Hostel $
4334-3401; www.hostelclan.com.ar; Adolfo Alsina 912; dm AR$28, d AR$80; Línea C Moreno
With some of the friendliest, most laid-back staff in BA, Hostel Clan has great onda, or vibe. It’s a casual party hostel, with built-in Spanish school, free bike rental and a funky rooftop terrace. Dorms (no bunk beds!) are spacious and some have lofts; each of the three doubles comes with a hammock but no private bathrooms. There’s a barbecue on Wednesday nights. Clan House B&B, the annex across the street, offers more privacy and comfort.
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PUERTO MADERO
There are hardly any hotels in Puerto Madero, a relatively new, upscale neighborhood that lies just east of the center. Buildings here are either old warehouses that have been converted into fancy restaurants, offices and lofts, or they’re brand-new apartment high-rises.
Public transport doesn’t reach Puerto Madero, but the nearest Subte line is three blocks away, and many buses run along Av Leandro N Alem/Paseo Colón.
FAENA HOTEL + UNIVERSE
Map Hotel $$$
4010-9200; www.faenahotelanduniverse.com; Marth Salotti 445; d from AR$1550
Located in a renovated Puerto Madero storage mill, this Philippe Starke–designed boutique fantasy is more than just a place to stay. Traipse through the plush main hallway, lined with two top-notch restaurants, a sultry lounge, basement cabaret and – outside – a slick swimming pool. On arrival, guests are given a personal valet and cell phone (there’s no reception counter), and taken to luxurious rooms that feature claw-foot beds, etched-mirror entertainment centers and glass-walled bathrooms. On the premises are also a Turkish bath and spa services. For an out-of-this-world experience, there’s no topping the Faena.
HILTON
Map Hotel $$$
4891-0000; www.hilton.com; Av Macacha Güemes 351; d from AR$605
The original five-star hotel in Puerto Madero, the Hilton features the airiest and most stunning lobby in town – eight floors of open atrium, topped by an arched glass ceiling. Sit in the ground-floor bar and marvel at it all, including the beautiful support beams and see-through elevators. There are over 400 luxurious rooms with all the amenities you’d expect at this price range, along with spa services, conference rooms, great views out the back and a killer outdoor pool.
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CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES
The Congreso and Tribunales area contains many of the city’s older theaters, cinemas and cultural centers. Lively Av Corrientes has many modest shops, services and bookstores, and was BA’s original theater district. The Plaza de Congreso area is always moving, sometimes with mostly peaceful public demonstrations. Generally, this area is not quite as packed as in the Center and has a less business-and-touristy flavor, but still bustles day and night.
BROADWAY HOTEL & SUITES
Map Hotel Suites $$$
4378-9300; www.broadway-suites.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1173; s/d from AR$480; Línea D Tribunales
Elegant, minimalist designs define this upscale hotel, starting with the fancy lobby and its handsome, well-dressed male personnel (yes, it’s a gay magnet). Upstairs, Zenlike rooms and suites come in earth-tone colors and simple decor. Perks such as flat-panel TVs, CD players, safety boxes and microwaves add convenience to style, while the rooftop pool – surrounded by a wooden deck and lounging chairs – is icing on the cake.
LOFT Y ARTE
Map Apartments $$
4115-1770; www.loftyarte.com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1194; d AR$320-1105; Línea A Lima
They’re not cheap, but if you want your own roomy spaces, good security and great service, you can’t beat this fancy spot. The nearly two dozen contemporary and elegantly furnished apartments come with kitchenette, cute dining area and daily cleaning service; some have airy lofts. All are different and tastefully decorated, and there’s a common rooftop terrace as well. Reservations mandatory.
CASTELAR HOTEL & SPA
Map Hotel $$
4383-5000; www.castelarhotel.com.ar; Av de Mayo 1152; d from AR$320; Línea A Lima
The high-ceilinged lobby is grand but the furniture’s a bit worn, and while the standard rooms are just good enough the superiors are more what you’d expect for a fancy hotel. It certainly has history, however – Federico García Lorca, the famous Spanish poet and playwright, loitered around here. Another plus is a humble spa in the basement, with a few soaks included in the price.
HOTEL DE LOS DOS CONGRESOS
Map Hotel $$
4372-0466; www.hoteldoscongresos.com; Av Rivadavia 1777; s/d/ste AR$220/235/283; Línea A Congreso
Within spitting distance of the Palacio del Congreso is this modern hotel with attractive midrange rooms. For something special, snag a suite – they come with views and Jacuzzi, and some have a spiral staircase to a loft. The lobby and tiled halls are nice, too, with a scratch here and there – but for the price and location, this place is a fairly good deal.
HOTEL LYON
Map Hotel Apartments $$
4372-0100; www.hotel-lyon.com.ar; Riobamba 251; s/d AR$190/250; Línea B Callao
If you’re a traveling family or group, this place is for you. The two- and three-bedroom apartments available here are no-frills but very spacious, and all include entry halls, large bathrooms and separate dining areas with fridges (but unfortunately no kitchens). Up to five people can be accommodated in each apartment. Reserve ahead as this place fills up quickly.
HOTEL IBIS
Map Hotel $$
5300-5555; www.ibishotel.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1592; s/d AR$180; Línea A Saénz Peña
This modern hotel is popular, and it’s no wonder; prices are low and the location is great, right on Plaza del Congreso. Rooms are small but neat and practical, and the shiny lobby connects with a comfy café/restaurant. Minuses include showers only (no bathtubs), but snag a room with a window to the front and you can soak in the views rather than the tub. Breakfast costs extra.
FIAMINGO APART HOTEL
Map Hotel Suites $$
4374-4400; www.fiamingoapart.com.ar; Talcahuano 120; s/d AR$170/200; Línea A Lima
Great for families (or just those who need a lot of room), the Fiamingo Apart Hotel features huge suites that lean more towards comfortable and convenient rather than fancy. All come with attached kitchenettes for heating up drinks or takeout foods, but there are no stoves – just microwaves and sinks. Staff are friendly and windows are double-paned for peace and quiet. It’s a great deal for the price; reserve ahead.
NUEVO HOTEL CALLAO
Map Hotel $$
4374-3861; www.hotelcallao.com.ar; Av Callao 292; s/d AR$170/200; Línea B Callao
The rooms at this attractive hotel are spacious, comfortable and modern, and many have balconies looking out over busy Av Callao. Two are bigger and rounded, located in the cupola edge of the building – these cost AR$30 more but have more expansive views and make you feel special. Inside rooms are darker but still reasonably sized, and avoid the street noise.
HOTEL TURILUZ SA
Map Hotel $$
4374-9112; molinohotel@hotmail.com; Av Callao 164; s/d AR$110/150; Línea A Congreso
The singles here are small and have open showers that get everything wet, but rooms in general are basic, neat and come with tasteful decor. The security is good and the lobby sparkles; this is excellent value and a popular choice in Congreso. Book ahead.
HOTEL MARBELLA
Map Hotel $
4383-8566; www.hotelmarbella.com.ar; Av de Mayo 1261; s/d AR$100/120; Línea A Lima
The rooms at this hotel are basic but clean – if you can stand a bit of traffic noise, try to secure one with a balcony. More spacious (and more expensive) rooms are also available, and there’s a good, modern bar/restaurant where breakfast is served. From here it’s an easy tramp to either Plaza del Congreso or Plaza de Mayo. Pay in cash and save 10%.
HOTEL CHILE
Map Hotel $
4381-6363; www.hotelchilebsas.com.ar; Av de Mayo 1297; s/d AR$90/110; Línea A Lima
An oldie but still a goodie, this popular standby offers an art nouveau facade outside and 70 decent budget rooms inside. Corner rooms are largest and have the best balconies and views, but are noisy and have only fans. Inside rooms come with air-con and are darker and more peaceful. The hotel is well located on busy Av de Mayo; reserve ahead.
GRAN HOTEL ORIENTAL
Map Hotel $
4951-6427; ghoriental@hotmail.com; Bartolomé Mitre 1840; s/d AR$70/90; Línea A Congreso
Despite its name this hotel is not grand, but it is good – and an absolute deal. Downstairs rooms are a bit dark (get one upstairs) and showers in general are small, but the simple, high-ceilinged rooms are comfortable enough for non-fussy travelers – just don’t expect many services. The tiled lobby and hallways are long and narrow, and there are a few old touches that add some personality.
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SAN TELMO
South of the center, San Telmo has some of the most traditional atmosphere in Buenos Aires. Buildings are more charming and historical, and less modern than in the center, and tend to be only a few stories high. Many restaurants and fancy boutique stores have opened here in recent years, and there are some good bars, tango venues and other nightspots for entertainment. Most accommodation options here are hostels, humble hotels or upscale guesthouses, but there is one unique five-star hotel.
AXEL HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
4136-9393; www.axelhotels.com; Venezuela 649; s/d from AR$775/860; Línea E Belgrano
BA’s first five-star gay hotel is certainly a showpiece – the lobby boasts a multistory wall fountain and if you look up the central area you’ll see right through the clear bottom of the top-floor swimming pool and towards the sky. Stairways are also glassy (watch that vertigo), and rooms are as contemporary as you can imagine, with acid-concrete floors and glass-wall bathrooms. There’s a large, decked-out back garden with another (outdoor) pool, two bar/lounges, a restaurant, saunas, Jacuzzis and a gym. It’s hetero-friendly, to boot.
MANSION DANDI ROYAL
Map Boutique Hotel $$
4307-7623; www.hotelmansiondandiroyal.com; Piedras 922; d AR$330-695; Línea C Independencia
Sophisticated tango fanatics will love this place. A 1903 family mansion has been lovingly renovated into a luxurious themed hotel complete with tango murals on the walls, glass chandeliers, a curved wooden staircase and many other period details. The 30 rooms are gorgeous; most come with antique furniture, king-size beds, claw-foot tubs and high ceilings. There’s a small but lovely rooftop lap-pool, a Jacuzzi, sunny patios and even a tiny gym. Tango classes, milongas (dances) and shows – all open to the public and the real reason you’re staying here – take place in the wonderful wooden-floored basement studios or next-door salon.
COCKER B&B
Map Guesthouse $$
4362-8451; www.thecocker.com; Juan de Garay 458; d AR$250-295; 
29
Possibly BA’s most tastefully refurbished old home is this exceptional San Telmo B&B, whose amazing renovation took two years to complete. The street outside seems unlikely to offer such a paradise, but after you climb the stairs to the 2nd floor you’ll be surrounded by contemporary touches, from the grand piano in the living room to the elegant dining nook in back. Five lovely rooms are available, but the best feature is likely the lush rooftop terraces – go up to the very top for San Telmo views and weekly movies screened against a wall. Run by a gay English couple (and their cocker spaniel), this is a gay-friendly place to stay.
CASA BOLIVAR
Map Guesthouse $$
4300-3619; www.casabolivar.com; Finochietto 524; d AR$220-375; 29
One of the most amazing places to stay in BA is in this gorgeous old building, which takes up a whole block. Fourteen spacious studios and loft apartments have been lovingly renovated into attractive and modern spaces, some with incredible original details like carved doorways or painted ceilings. Separate entrances join with common hallways connecting through the complex, and there are lovely garden patios in which to relax. Run by a French couple.
BOHEMIA BUENOS AIRES HOTEL
Map Hotel $$
4115-2561; www.bohemiabuenosaires.com.ar; Perú 845; d AR$180, ste AR$325; 29
This no-nonsense place is one of the few modern hotels in San Telmo, offering just 14 simple yet comfortable rooms with tiled floors. A few larger suites are available for families or groups, and there’s a small, grassy back garden with tiny bar nearby.
POSADA DE LA LUNA
Map Guesthouse $$
4343-0911; www.posadaluna.com; Perú 565; s/d from AR$155/185; 29
For an intimate stay there’s this charming, family-run guesthouse located in an old historical house. The five stylish yet casual rooms – which lie along a tiled patio hallway decorated with potted plants – boast wooden floors and high ceilings, along with modern comforts like air-con and TVs. In back there’s a modest terrace and even a small Jacuzzi room tucked in the basement.
BIG HOUSE
Map Guesthouse $$
4362-0701; www.bighousefriendly.com; Bolivar 920; d AR$155-220; 29
With just five rooms (two with their own bathroom), this very intimate place is owned by a gracious gay couple and their friendly golden retriever. It’s a homey, laid-back spot with fine, comfortable rooms, a small enclosed patio and even a tiny gym. Continental breakfast is served in the airy kitchen area, where guests can also prepare their own meals. Your hosts have lived in San Telmo their whole lives and are a font of information about the area. Hetero- and gay-friendly.
FOUR B&B
Map Guesthouse $$
4362-1729; www.thefourhotel.com; Carlos Calvo 535; s AR$135, d AR$168-258; 29
This intimate, family-run guesthouse has only a handful of simple but elegant rooms, but it’s a good deal. Families or groups should go for the loft room, which has two well-defined areas, while those wishing more privacy can reserve the top-floor room overlooking the small but wonderful terrace. The other common area is a cozy living room in front. It’s in a lovely old house with original details, and service is personalized.
LUGAR GAY
Map Guesthouse $$
4300-4747; www.lugargay.com.ar; Defensa 1120; s AR$125-170, d AR$155-235; 29
Head up a long flight of stairs to this intimate guesthouse, where only gay men can book a stay. Just four of the eight small but elegant rooms have a private bathroom, but most boast stunning views of the pretty church out back. It’s a maze of catwalks, spiral staircases and sunny terraces (nude sunbathing welcome), plus there’s a tango salon and a tiny café to boot. Two Jacuzzis – one indoor, one out – translate into fun nights, and even if you don’t book a stay they’ll give out information on BA’s gay scene. Afternoon snacks are complimentary, as is a closet kitchenette.
CASA VAIVEN
Map Guesthouse $
4307-6052; www.casavaiven.com; Finochietto 617; s/d from AR$110/140; 29
Located in a converted warehouse, this artsy guesthouse offers a unique stay in a residential, blue-collar San Telmo neighborhood. Enter into the large common space with concrete floor and spiral staircase, which leads to just five 2nd-story rooms and apartments. In back are the communal table and kitchen, along with a small patio with barbecue. There’s also a TV niche–living room and foosball table. It’s not a fancy spot, but not a place you’ll forget anytime soon either.
LINA’S TANGO GUESTHOUSE
Map Guesthouse $
4361-6817; www.linatango.com; Estados Unidos 780; d AR$95-185; Línea C Independencia
For a homey stay with a tango twist, consider this humble spot. Seven simple rooms are available and there’s a kitchen for guests to use. A casual inner courtyard doubles as tango salon when the weather is good, and there’s an upstairs common room as well. Plenty of tango information, from events to milongas to shows, is also on tap – great for those who want to immerse themselves in the dance.
TELMO TANGO HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4361-5808; www.hostelmotango.com; Chacabuco 679; dm AR$40, d AR$90-110; 29
Located in a nice old building with original touches, this hostel doesn’t really have large dorms – they’re basically shared doubles or private rooms for two to four people. Also unusual is that there’s no kitchen, just a place to heat up beverages. One beautiful original room is available, which has four beds and an awesome balcony, but other-wise all rooms are small and basic. It’s a tranquil place and not for party types.
ANTICO HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4363-0035; www.anticohostel.com; Bolivar 893; dm AR$38, d AR$125-185; 29
A spiffed-up version of your usual run-of-the-mill backpacker joint, this ‘boutique hostel’ features contemporary low furniture in the TV room, a glass ceiling in the bar/lounge, and small but neat dorms. Bathrooms are also pretty stylish, and some private rooms boast their own. Best of all, however, is the rooftop terrace, which feels more like a restaurant than a common area, with slatted wooden deck, fancy container plants and tables with umbrellas. This brings down the intimacy factor, but it sure looks pretty. The best private room is at the top, number 253.
SANDANZAS HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4300-7375; www.sandanzas.com.ar; Balcarce 1351; dm AR$30-33, d AR$100-130; 152
This friendly hostel has just 28 beds and is enthusiastically run by its five young owners, all artists or social workers. It’s a colorful place with good-sized dorms, six doubles (three with private bathroom) and occasional cultural events in the common room. The location is in a gritty, blue-collar neighborhood near Plaza Lezama. Coffee and tea are served all day, and there are free bike rentals.
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RETIRO
Retiro is a great, central place to be, if you can afford it – many of BA’s most expensive hotels, along with some of its richest inhabitants, are settled in here. Close by are leafy Plaza San Martín, the Retiro train and bus stations, and many upscale stores and business services. Ritzy Recoleta is to the north and the busy Microcentro is to the south – both just a short and pleasant stroll away.
FOUR SEASONS BUENOS AIRES
Map Hotel $$$
4321-1200; www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires; Posadas 1086; d from AR$1480; 67
No surprise here – Buenos Aires’ Four Seasons offers all the perks that define a five-star hotel, such as great service and white terry-cloth robes. Rooms are large and beautiful, with contemporary furnishings and decorations, and the finest suites are located in an old, luxurious mansion next door. There’s also a gorgeous spa, an outdoor, heated swimming pool, an international restaurant and a business center.
DAZZLER SUITES ARROYO
Map Hotel Suites $$$
4325-8200; www.dazzlersuites.com; Suipacha 1359; d from AR$490; 67
Hopefully, by the time you read this the Dazzler will have completely finished its remodel, which has been going on for at least three years now (expect prices to increase). If not, try to snag one of the newer suites, which more closely match the snazzy lobby area. New or old, all come with kitchenette – and some have two bedrooms. Perks include an open-air swimming pool, sauna, modern gym and international restaurant.
ASPEN SUITES
Map Apartment-Hotel $$$
4313-9011; www.aspensuites.com.ar; Esmeralda 933; d AR$450-600; Línea C San Martín
It’s hardly luxurious, the halls could use a lick of paint and the views out the window vary, but both businesspeople and tourists (especially Brazilians) come for the modern, spacious suites – all with fully equipped kitchenettes and very comfortable. Bigger ‘deluxe’ suites and one-bedroom apartments are available, and there’s a sauna, a tiny gym and a business center, too. The best rates are available online.
DAZZLER HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
4816-5005; www.dazzlerlibertad.com; Libertad 902; d AR$425; Línea D Tribunales
They’re big on glass at this modern hotel; the lobby is nearly surrounded by the stuff, which lets in a lot of traffic noise. Most of the rooms have a whole wall of glass as well, providing light and a great view over leafy Plaza Libertad (fortunate, considering they’re not all that large). It’s a comfortable spot, with a pleasant 2nd-floor restaurant, and is well situated near the Microcentro and Recoleta. Ask for available discounts when booking.
HOTEL PRINCIPADO
Map Hotel $$
4313-3022; www.principado.com.ar; Paraguay 481; s/d AR$280/310; Línea C San Martín
A relatively affordable stay in Retiro is this modest hotel, which features good, clean and rather bland midrange rooms in a very central location. Most of the typical hotel and room services are on tap, including a minibar, safety box, hairdryer and business center.
HOTEL CENTRAL CÓRDOBA
Map Hotel $
4311-1175; www.hotelcentralcordoba.com.ar; San Martín 1021; s/d AR$110/130; Línea C San Martín
Possibly Retiro’s most affordable hotel is the Central Córdoba. Rooms are neat and feature desk areas and tiled floors, but don’t leave much space to move around. Ask for an inside room if you want quiet. The location is spot on – the Kilkenny bar is within easy staggering distance – and it’s very popular, so it’s best to book ahead.
RECOLETA HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4812-4419; www.trhostel.com.ar; Libertad 1216; dm AR$27-33, d AR$81-96; 100
The best thing about this HI-affiliated hostel is its location in an old mansion in upscale Retiro. Ceilings are high and common spaces adequate, but the doubles and dorms are very small and the service could be better. As in any hostel, lock up your belongings.
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RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
Most of the accommodations in Recoleta (Barrio Norte is more of a sub-neighborhood) are expensive, and what cheap hotels there are tend to be full much of the time. Buildings here are grand and beautiful, befitting the city’s richest barrio, and you’ll be close to Recoleta’s famous cemetery, along with its lovely parks, museums and boutiques.
ALVEAR PALACE HOTEL
Map Hotel $$$
4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.com; Av Alvear 1891; d from AR$2060; 67
Ask any local to name the classiest, most traditional hotel in Buenos Aires, and they’ll surely name the Alvear Palace. Old-world sophistication and superior service will help erase the trials of that long 1st-class flight into town, while the bathtub Jacuzzi, Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-cotton bedsheets aid your trip into dreamland. There are also three fine restaurants, an elegant tea room and an indoor swimming pool to luxuriate in, as well as butler service.
PALACIO DUHAU – PARK HYATT
Map Hotel $$$
5171-1234; www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com; Av Alvear 1661; d from AR$1500; 67
One of the loveliest new hotels in Buenos Aires, the Park Hyatt takes up a city block and consists of two wings – a newer building on Av Posadas and the Palacio Duhau, a renovated mansion on Av Alvear. In between is a gorgeously terraced, grassy garden with fountains and patios, which the palace’s large restaurant balcony overlooks. Rooms are – unsurprisingly – luxuriously wonderful, and swanky amenities include a fine spa, indoor pool, wine and cheese bar, art gallery and even a tea house. Service is excellent.
LOI SUITES
Map Hotel Suites $$$
5777-8950; www.loisuites.com.ar; Vicente López 1955; d from AR$940; 59
A minimalist lobby with leather chairs, white sofas and dark-wood coffee tables welcomes you to this contemporary and stylish hotel. Gorgeous rooms are awash in basic colors and simple designs and exude high-class comfort. Two restaurants, a sauna, s massage room and a lovely atrium with swimming pool – which converts to a patio in winter – add to the luxurious atmosphere. Add its great location next to Recoleta Cemetery and you pretty much have it all.
HOTEL PLAZA FRANCIA
Map Hotel Suites $$$
4804-9631; www.hotelplazafrancia.com; E Schiaffino 2189; d AR$595; 67
A good choice for a mid- to high-range hotel, the Plaza Francia’s best feature is likely the views from the upper-floor rooms. Gaze past Recoleta’s Parque Thays all the way to the Río de la Plata, or watch the planes land at Aeroparque. It’s located on noisy Av del Libertador, but windows are double-paned for peace. Rooms are perfectly fine for the location and price, and services are decent.
ART SUITES
Map Apartments $$$
4821-6800; www.artsuites.com.ar; Azcuénaga 1465; d AR$550-825; Línea D Pueyrredón
Fifteen luxurious, very modern and spacious apartments are on offer at this very exclusive spot. All are bright, with minimalist decor, full kitchens or kitchenettes, sunny balconies and slick, hip furniture. Windows are double-paned for quiet, staff speak English well, security is excellent and there’s even daily cleaning service. Long-term discounts are available, but reserve way in advance, as this is not a place to just show up to without warning.
GUIDO PALACE HOTEL
Map Hotel $$
4812-0341; www.guidopalace.com.ar; Guido 1780; d from AR$260; 59
Modest accommodations can be found at this humble hotel, which offers 46 plain but comfortable rooms at decent prices. You’d basically just stay here to be rubbing shoulders with the rich in ritzy Recoleta, because there’s not much to the place other than its great location. There is a small dining area for breakfast – but treat yourself and get it taken up to your room, along with the daily paper.
PRINCE HOTEL
Map Hotel $$
4811-8004; www.princehotel.com.ar; Arenales 1627; s/d AR$150/190; Línea D Callao
If you must stay in Recoleta and have a thin wallet, consider the Prince Hotel. Slightly misnamed (a prince would not likely stay here), this cheap stay offers older halls and very small rooms – but at least they’re tastefully decorated, and some even come with balcony. Services will obviously be limited, but for the location you can’t complain. Be sure to check out the ancient metal elevator.
HOTEL LION D’OR
Map Hotel $
4803-8992; www.hotel-liondor.com.ar; Pacheco de Melo 2019; s AR$115-140, d AR$145-175; 59
These old digs have their charm, but what you get can be a crapshoot – some rooms are small, basic and dark, while others can be absolutely grand and may include a modest (but nonworking) fireplace. All are clean and good-value, and while a few are a bit rough around the edges most have been modernized for comfort. There’s a great old marble staircase, and the elevator is just fabulous. Breakfast is not included; air-con is extra.
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PALERMO
Despite being a slight trek from the center, Palermo is the top choice for many travelers. Not only is it full of extensive parklands – which are great for weekend jaunts and sporting activities – but you’ll have heaps of cutting-edge restaurants, designer boutiques and hip dance clubs at your door. Many of these places are located in the extensive sub-neighborhood of Palermo Viejo, which is further subdivided into Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. All are connected to the center by bus or Subte.
FIVE COOL ROOMS
Map Boutique Hotel $$$
5235-5555; www.fivebuenosaires.com; Honduras 4742; d from AR$395; 55
One of the slickest places to stay in Palermo is this modern, minimalist hotel that’s heavy on glass, wood and metal accents. Outside hallways line two stories of small but beautifully modern rooms, but take the glass elevator to the top-floor prize – an airy breakfast room with a rooftop terrace featuring plenty of sunning lounges and an eight-person Jacuzzi. A lovely stay and a great location in Palermo Viejo.
CASA LAS CAÑITAS
Map Boutique Hotel $$
4771-3878; www.casalascanitas.com; Huergo 283; s/d AR$338-468; Línea D Ministro Carranza
With nine small but lovely rooms, this boutique hotel offers a hip stay and a fabulous location just a block away from Las Cañitas’ bustling nightlife. Two rooms come with private terrace, but only one room has a bathtub. There’s a tiny, two-seat bar in the fancy lobby, behind which is the breakfast area and the hotel’s highlight – a small but pleasant, grassy backyard with barbecue, sundeck and outdoor shower.
LA OTRA ORILLA
Map Guesthouse $$
4867-4070; www.otraorilla.com.ar; J Álvarez 1779; d AR$265-530; Línea D Scalabrini Ortíz
Seven beautiful rooms are up for grabs at this beautiful guesthouse, each different in size, shape and color. The large suite has a great view to the leafy back garden, while two of the rooms share a bathroom. A buffet breakfast is served at a large common table so guests can mingle, and there’s an afternoon tea with snacks as well. The outdoor patio is lit up with candles at night, adding a bit of romance to an already pleasant stay.
CASA BLOODY MARY
Map Guesthouse $$
4777-7106; www.casabloodymary.com; Volta 1867; s AR$132, d AR$265-300; Línea D Olleros
Named after the popular drink and located in peaceful Las Cañitas, this small, gay-friendly guesthouse offers five beautifully decorated and comfortable rooms (all different sizes) with wooden floors and original details. It’s not highly luxurious and there’s no back garden, but the old Tudor-style home is fine and there’s a nice little entry area, as well as pleasant common spaces and a subdued homeliness.
CASERÓN PORTEÑO
Map Guesthouse $$
4554-6336; www.caseronporteno.com; Ciudad de la Paz 344; s AR$170-265, d AR$225-340; Línea D Ministro Carranza
Catering especially to tango dancers is this fine guesthouse with 10 simple but tastefully furnished rooms. All have private bathrooms, but four have them outside the rooms. Behind the lush garden there’s a small dance studio where classes take place, while other common spaces include a relaxing rooftop terrace and a kitchen for guest use. Plenty of tango information is available. Minuses include a noisy school next door and the location, which is a bit far from the center. Four-night minimum stay in high season.
LONG-TERM GUESTHOUSES
- Casa de Plata (Map; 4953-3950; www.casadeplata.com.ar; Av Corrientes 2092, 4th fl; monthly r AR$1240-1860; Línea B Pasteur) Homey, airy place with seven good rooms, all with balcony and carpet. Nice old touches to the house; a small kitchen is available.
- Casa Los Angelitos (Map; 4954-4079; www.casalosangelitos.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 2178; monthly r AR$1385-2030; Línea A Pasco) Gorgeous old house with seven simple rooms around outdoor patios. The two on the top floor (each with their own bathroom) are the most private. Good large kitchen.
- La Casa de Etty (Map; 4384-6378; www.coret.com.ar; Luis Sáenz Peña 617; monthly r AR$665-1150; Línea E Independencia) Small house with three basic rooms around a covered patio; all share bathrooms and there’s a small kitchen.
- La Casa de Hilda (Map; 4826-1031; lacasadehilda@yahoo.com.ar); Arenales 2634; monthly r AR$1300-1700; Línea D Pueyrredón) The three-bed dorm and three private rooms share bathrooms at this large house; one small apartment is available. No kitchen use.
- La Casa de Marina (Map; 15-5737-1804; www.lacasademarina.com.ar; Balcarce 621, 3rd fl, apt 6; monthly r AR$775-1240; 29) Four rooms, two of them tiny, are available at this small but pleasant San Telmo guesthouse; all share bathrooms and a kitchen.
- M&M Homestay (Map; 4362-0356; magdalena@argentina.com; Balcarce 1094; monthly r AR$1860; 64) Just one room is available at this beautiful family home in San Telmo. Two small dogs (both schnauzers) and a baby share the space. Ask about their off-site apartments.
HOTEL COSTA RICA
Map Hotel $$
4864-7390; www.hotelcostarica.com.ar; Costa Rica 4137; d AR$155-295; Línea D Scalabrini Ortíz
There aren’t many large hotels in Palermo, but the Costa Rica, with 30 rooms, manages to retain a sense of intimacy – the cozy bar and patio area in the lobby really help. It’s run by a Frenchman, who has installed contemporary details like slick, raised sinks and modern decor while keeping some of the building’s original details, like its tall doors. Tiled hallways are narrow and plain, but there’s a spacious rooftop patio for sunny lounging. To save a few pesos, go for the cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms. Breakfast costs extra.
BAYRES B&B
Map Guesthouse $$
4772-3877; www.bayresbnb.com; Av Córdoba 5842; s AR$140-200, d AR$170-235; 111
The location of this gay-oriented B&B isn’t terribly wonderful – it’s on busy Av Córdoba. But you’ll only be a skip away from Palermo Hollywood’s fine restaurants. There are five rooms available here, two with shared bathroom and two with balcony overlooking the street. A small, sunny rooftop patio is a plus. Don’t expect luxury, but rather reasonable comfort and a homey vibe in a renovated old house. Hetero-friendly.
LA ACACIA B&B
Map Guesthouse $$
4771-6220; www.laacacia.com.ar; Malasia 841; s AR$125-250, d AR$155-265; Línea D Olleros
For a pleasant and quiet stay, check out this peaceful B&B, located in a 1925 Tudor house in a residential neighborhood. It’s run by a friendly mother-daughter team and offers four good rooms. Two of them are smaller and share baths, but also boast more personality with their high, angled, wooden-beamed ceilings. The small, grassy backyard is a wonderful retreat, especially on sunny days when the hammock gets put out. Breakfast is continental, and there’s a dinner option on weekdays.
CHE LULU GUESTHOUSE
Map Guesthouse $$
4772-0289; www.chelulu.com; Emilio Zolá 5185; dm AR$50, d AR$109-130, d with bathroom AR$175; Línea D Palermo
One of BA’s original boutique guesthouses, Che Lulu offers an upscale but unpretentious atmosphere dotted with artistic touches. Each of the eight small, simple and colorful rooms sports a different size and theme, and all but two share bathrooms. Sophisticated backpackers can opt for the cozy attic dorm, which sleeps five. There are a couple of cute patios and a comfortable main common space. To find Che Lulu, just look for its bright-red paint job – a homage to BA’s old red-light district, which used to run just a half-block away.
BORGES DESIGN HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4774-6910; www.bdhostel.com; Paraguay 4539; dm AR$30, s AR$90, d AR$120-140; Línea D Plaza Italia
Going for that upscale feel, this hostel features a smart, lounge-like lobby and common spaces with futuristic, chunky furniture. It’s located in an old house, so retains some original touches as well. There’s a gravel courtyard for smokers, and beyond is a building with modern but small and plain private rooms. Dorms and private rooms in the main house tend to be brighter, larger and all differently sized.
ALMA PETIT HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4771-4345; info@almapetithostel.com; J Newberry 1708; dm AR$30, d AR$90-140; Línea D Olleros
Those looking for a small, friendly hostel in a safe neighborhood can bet on this decent spot, located a few blocks from Las Cañitas’ popular nightlife and about a 20-minute bus ride to the center. It’s part of an old house with high ceilings, pleasant atmosphere and small patio out back. There are just three private rooms and two four-bed dorms (sex-segregated), and while none are huge they feature solid beds with quality mattresses and linens.
MILONGA B&B
Map Hostel $
4825-7217; www.milongabnb.com; Agüero1389; dm AR$29-35, s AR$60-70, d AR$90-150; Línea D Agüero
Really a hostel rather than a fancy B&B, the Milonga offers seven fine private rooms with either shared or private bath – and two have air-con. It’s taken over an atmospheric old house with original details, and offers a common lobby area with kitchen nearby, along with a tiny rooftop terrace.
LA CASA FITZ ROY
Map Hostel $
4777-3454; www.lacasafitzroy.com; Fitz Roy 2461; dm AR$28-31, s/d AR$72/88; Línea D Palermo
This pleasant hostel is conveniently located right near a Subte stop and plenty of bus lines. Inside you’ll find small but well-priced private rooms, all with shared bath, along with a few large dorms. The back breakfast area has an atrium feel (translucent ceiling held together with duct tape) featuring a foosball table and a small outdoor patio for asados (barbecues). There’s also a TV lounge in front.
BAIT HOSTEL
Map Hostel $
4774-2859; www.baitba.com; El Salvador 5115; dm AR$27, s/d AR$95-130; 55
For those who care more about good vibes than fancy atmosphere, there’s this intimate, laid-back hostel. Reception is at the upstairs bar/common room area and you get a free drink on check-in, which gives you an idea of the casualness here. There’s also a downstairs patio for weekly asados and live music events. Dorms are tight with eight to nine beds each, but despite bunks being three-high, most have privacy curtains. There are seven private rooms, some with attached bathroom, for those who need more space.