DRINKING
What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/buenos-aires
DRINKING
In a city that never sleeps, finding a good drink (or cup of tea) is as easy as walking down the street. Whether you’re into slick trendy lounges, classic Irish pubs, traditional old cafés or American-style sports bars, you’ll find them all within the borders of Buenos Aires. And pretty much all of them (even the cafés) will usually serve beer, hard alcohol, cocktails, wine, juices and a good range of finger foods or main dishes.
Argentines aren’t huge drinkers and you’ll be lucky to see one rip-roaring drunk. One thing they do do, however, is stay up late. Most bars and cafés are open until two or three in the morning, and often until 5am on weekends – or until the last tipsy customer stumbles out the door.
For more on BA’s important café culture, see the boxed text Click here. For popular gay bars (and other gay venues) see the boxed text Click here; they’re also among the reviews listed in this chapter.
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BARS
Porteños love their bars. Pretty cocktails are the drink of choice at fancier places, while your typical chopp (mug) of Quilmes will do at the local hole-in-the-wall. Just remember the word for beer – cerveza. Also, keep in mind that many upscale restaurants and hotels have good bars worth visiting.
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THE CENTER
Many watering holes in the Center are Irish pub wanna-bes that cater to the business crowd on weekdays. Because of this some might close a bit earlier than in other neighborhoods, but the most popular ones stay packed all night long.
LA CIGALE
4312-8275; 25 de Mayo 722; 
6pm-4am Mon-Fri, 10pm-late Sat
This long-running sultry and moody downtown lounge is very popular with both foreigners and porteños. There’s different music every night, with live bands on Thursdays and DJs on Saturdays. But it’s most popular on ‘French Tuesdays,’ when electronica and exotic drinks draw the heavy crowds in. Happy hour runs from 6pm to 10pm weekdays, a good time to try an original cocktail.
VERONA
15-5427-2962; www.veronadisco.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 968; Fri & Sat
One of the few lesbian venues in BA, Verona is located in an airy open space lined with white lounges and a bar – great for socializing. Fridays sees a mixed crowd getting into stripper or transvestite shows, while Saturdays are pretty much for ladies only (head to the basement if you want to dance). Music runs the gamut from cumbia (Columbian music) to electronica to ’80s and ’90s.
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CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES
This neighborhood is not known for its drinking holes, but there are at least a couple of decent spots in which to toast the town.
DEBAR
4381-6876; Av Rivadavia 1132; 6pm-late Mon-Fri, 8pm-late Sat & Sun
While technically part of the Center, the popular Debar is actually closer to the Congreso area (which is not known for its nightlife) and has some of BA’s coolest rock and hip-hop beats. Businesspeople come for an after-work trago (drink), while travelers and expats hit it later in the evening. With a happy hour that runs until midnight every night (think two-for-one daiquiris, Pisco Sours and Cuba Libres), everyone is happy. Great DJs from Thursday to Saturday night. In the future, live music may feature in the basement.
LOS 36 BILLARES
4381-5696; Rivadavia 1265; 8am-2am
Dating from 1894, this is one of the city’s most historic bars. As its name implies, it’s big on pool and billiard tables – both the back room and basement are full of them – with men (and it’s always men) cuing up the racks. Tango shows (AR$20), highlighting different singers and dancers every night, are offered later in the evening (no shows on Mondays). There are also evening meals, otherwise you can come by and order a drink at any time of day, soaking up the classic atmosphere.
ARGENTINE WINE David Labi
So how to know which wines to try? They say there’s a perfect Argentine wine for every occasion and a good vinoteca (wine boutique) will help you find it. There are over 150 dedicated wine shops in Buenos Aires, and this number is growing fast. You’ll find plenty all over Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo; in the center there’s The Winery, with many branches throughout BA. If you are willing to travel to the outskirts of the capital, however, you can find an excellent specialist in Vinoteca Borbore ( 4504-2425; Av Mosconi 3654, Devoto), which stocks over 1500 labels.
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SAN TELMO
San Telmo is gentrifying; fancy restaurants and bars are popping up with regularity, mixing it up with a few old classics. But it seems there’s space for everyone, and this neighborhood has become very popular with locals, travelers and expats. For a couple more choices Bar El Federal and Bar Plaza Dorrego.
EL HIPOPÓTAMO
4300-4313; Av Brasil 401; 8am-1am
Hanging out by a picture window at this classic old bar, watching San Telmo street life go by against the backdrop of Plaza Lezama – not much could be more indulgent on a lazy afternoon. It’s the atmosphere that makes the difference; wine bottles in glass cabinets and antique wall signs both add to the charm, and while the basic Argentine fare isn’t inspirational the eclectic crowd here is fun to watch.
GIBRALTAR
4362-5310; Peru 895; 6pm-4am
One of BA’s classic expat pubs, the Gibraltar has a cozy atmosphere, good spaces and an excellent bar counter for those traveling alone. It’s also a great place for fairly authentic foreign cuisine – try the generous Thai, Indian or English dishes, or the sushi on Sundays. For a little friendly competition head to the pool table in the back, grabbing a well-priced pint of beer along the way.
PRIDE CAFÉ
4300-6435; Balcarce 869; snacks AR$8-12; 10am-10pm Sun-Fri
This small contemporary café is especially swamped by cute gay men on Sundays during San Telmo’s antiques fair, attracting them with homemade pastries, healthy snacks and ‘queer coffee.’ Sushi nights add interest, though you might also tuck yourself away, martini in hand, to peruse the foreign mags or watch DVDs on the small screen behind the counter. Wi-fi is available, and there’s an annex down the street.
PUERTA ROJA
4362-5649; Chacabuco 733; 6pm-late
There’s no sign, so ring the bell to get into this upstairs bar, which takes up several rooms in an old house. It has great music and cool vibes, with low lounge furniture in the main room and a pool table tucked behind. Smokers can light up in the space overlooking the street – just make sure the windows are open. Come early for a good seat and to munch on the excellent and affordably priced food – there’s little room to eat later, when the place heaves with people.
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RETIRO
Retiro has a good range of bars, from Irish to upscale. Most are full of businessmen during the day and into the evening, and at night attract the traveler/expat crowd. For a sexy restaurant–wine bar there’s Gran Bar Danzón Click here, while Filo is also a good place for a cocktail and Empire Bar offers more vodkas than you could possibly sample.
DADÁ
4314-4787; San Martín 941; noon-3am Mon-Thu, noon-4:30am Fri & Sat, closed Sun
The intimate, creative and very cool atmosphere sets this downtown bistro-bar apart – the cartoon art on the walls is especially striking. Tasty potions are mixed behind the funky tiled countertop, which stylishly holds patrons’ concoctions. Jazz tunes turn to bossa nova as night falls, when fresh tourists looking for fun replace worn businesspeople heading home. It also serves ravioli, salad and steak for lunch or dinnertime crowds.
DRUID IN
4312-3688; Reconquista 1040; noon-late Mon-Fri, 9pm-late Sat
Just half a block from the popular Kilkenny and sporting a more intimate and less crowded atmosphere is this modest Irish pub. A wide range of aged whiskeys, imported liquor, blended cocktails and more than 30 beers temper the pizza, sandwiches and British food that are served. There are live Scottish bagpipes and Celtic music on weekends.
EL ALAMO
4813-7060; Uruguay 1175; 24hr
Sure, BA is famous for its late-night nightlife, but El Alamo (aka Shoeless Joe’s) goes that extra mile; it’s open 24 hours and draws US expats like bees to honey with American football, baseball and basketball on TV. Regulars can even run up a bar tab. There’s pub food for the hungry and it’s got a great way of attracting women – every day from noon to midnight the ladies drink beer for free. Men have to pay – but it’s only AR$5 per pint. Happy hour indeed.
EL VERDE
4315-3693; Reconquista 878; noon-4am Mon-Fri, 8pm-4am Sat
What sets this downtown pub apart is its orientation toward a hip, older scene. You may not find anyone under 50 here, but that doesn’t mean everyone’s sporting a cane. Live music and dancing gets the old blood going, and this place can really rock – it gets as loud and hoppin’ as any of its younger counterparts. Boar heads on the walls add a touch of quirkiness.
FLUX BAR
5252-0258; www.fluxbar.com.ar; MT de Alvear 980; 7pm-2am Mon-Sat
Run by a friendly Englishman and his Russian partner, this unobtrusive basement gay bar is hetero-friendly – so everyone’s more than welcome to come on down. The large, colorful space has a slightly artsy feel. Recommended drinks include the strawberry martini and the Buenos Aires Iced Tea (made with Fernet, that popular Argentine mixer). Come during happy hour (7pm to 10pm) and give it – and yourself – a shot.
KILKENNY
4312-7291; MT de Alvear 399; 5pm-6am Mon-Fri, 8pm-6am Sat & Sun
Buenos Aires’ most popular Irish bar has become, well, just too damn popular. Weekends are a crush and thumping music makes it hard to chat up your date, but the dark woodsy atmosphere is congenial enough. Come early on weekdays if you want to score one of the cozy deep booths for easy conversation; there’s also a smoking section on the 2nd floor if enough people want to light up. It has a good whiskey and beer selection, too.
MILIÓN
4815-9925; Paraná 1048; 6pm-2am Sun-Wed, 6pm-3am Thu, 8pm-4am Fri & Sat
This elegant and very sexy bar takes up three floors of a renovated old mansion. The garden out back is a leafy paradise, overlooked by a solid balcony that holds the best seats in the house. Nearby marble steps aren’t bad and provide good views as well. There are elegant tapas to accompany the wide range of cocktails (pay first then good luck catching the bartender’s eye!), while downstairs a fancy restaurant serves international dishes.
RUBIA Y NEGRA
4313-1125; Libertad 1630; 6:30pm-3am Mon-Sat
A true rarity in BA, this bar-restaurant also makes its own beer – right on the premises. You can see the shiny metal tanks up above the bar, brewing up eight beers from stout to wheat to barley wine and a cream ale. It’s an upscale lounge sort of place however, so don’t expect a homey publike atmosphere. Come on a Monday, Tuesday or Saturday and see if the all-you-can-eat sushi (AR$55) goes with the suds.
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RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
HM Ortiz, across from Recoleta’s famous cemetery, is a two-block strip of restaurants, cafés and bars. On warm sunny days most of them open up their fine outdoor front patios, perfect for a drink or meal and some people-watching.
BULLER BREWING COMPANY
4808-9061; RM Ortiz 1827; noon-late
Yes, it’s a microbrewery in Buenos Aires, and in Recoleta, no less. Six kinds of beer are brewed on the modern premises, including a dry stout, a light lager and a honey beer (taste them all for AR$20). Alcohol content ranges from 4.5% to 8.5%, something you can appreciate while watching American football on TV. Has a great outdoor patio in front, and plenty of snacks and pizza are served. Also in Retiro at Paraguay 428).
CONTRAMANO
Rodríguez Peña 1082; from midnight Wed-Sun (closing times vary)
Still packing them in after nearly two dozen years is this old Recoleta venue. It’s for a more mature gay clientele; women aren’t allowed in, and why would they want to be? It’s mostly a bunch of older men checking each other out, with a few young guys escorting them around. Friday is best here, though drag and stripper shows, along with a raffle, run on Sunday.
DEEP BLUE
4827-4415; Ayacucho 1240; 7pm-late Mon-Fri, 8pm-late Sat
As the name implies, there’s plenty of blue around, including the many pool-table surfaces (though upstairs they’re orange). Corrugated metal ceilings and a rowdy DJ contribute to the feisty atmosphere, where beer taps are built into your table and the neon gives everyone a robotic sheen. For even more blurry vision order a few shots of the hundred-odd whiskies available.
SHAMROCK
4812-3584; Rodríguez Peña 1220; 6pm-4am Mon-Wed, till 6am Thu & Fri, 8pm-6am Sat
Rockin’ during the ‘longest’ happy hour in town, which runs from 6pm to midnight daily, this contemporary Irish joint in Barrio Norte is decked out in dark wood and has a dim atmosphere. DJs rule from Wednesday to Saturday, when the Basement Club disco (good sound system) opens up at 1am. It’s a loud place, so don’t expect much conversation as most folks prefer to stand and check each other out.
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PALERMO
You’ll find Buenos Aires’ hippest drinking scenes in and around Palermo, especially near Plaza Serrano in Palermo Viejo. Many restaurants in this neighborhood have good bars, including Bangalore, Lelé de Troya Click here and Olsen. Palermo is also where you’ll find a few gay and lesbian bars, mostly to the south near Av Córdoba.
Las Cañitas, another sub-neighborhood of Palermo, has a lively three blocks of nonstop restaurants, bars and discos, and is also worth a drop-in.
878
4773-1098; Thames 878; 8pm-late
Hidden behind an unsigned door is this ‘secret’ bar – you have to ring the bell to get in, but it’s hardly exclusive. Enter a wonderland of elegant low lounge furniture and red brick walls; if you’re a whiskey lover, there are over 80 kinds to try. Tasty classic and original cocktails also lubricate the crowds of porteños and expats, happy to revel in the jazz, bossa nova and good old rock music playing on the speakers. Located in a residential neighborhood, it’s technically in Villa Crespo, just a few blocks south of the Palermo Viejo border.
ACABAR
4772-0845; Honduras 5733; 8pm-2am Sun-Thu, 8pm-4am Fri & Sat
This is possibly the quirkiest restaurant-bar in town, at least in terms of design. A maze of more than a half-dozen rooms and spaces are decked out in mismatched chandeliers, funky furniture, clashing pastel colors and frilly wallpaper; it’s a texture and pattern overload. It’s also famous for having whole shelves dedicated to board games. Serves food earlier on.
BACH BAR
www.bach-bar.com.ar; Cabrera 4390; 11pm-late Tue-Sun
This small bar is most popular with lesbians, but plenty of guys make it here, too. The live drag shows on Wednesday and Thursday are downright raucous, and sultry dancing among the tables is not unheard of. There’s a pre-dance vibe on Saturday and karaoke on Sunday; during the rest of the week local DJs play. Minimum consumption is AR$12, but just order a couple of vodkas and you’ll be fine.
BULNES CLASS
4861-7492; www.bulnesclass.com.ar; Bulnes 1250; 7pm-2am Thu, 11pm-4am Fri & Sat
One of BA’s most popular gay bars is this beautiful lounge with blood-red walls, hip white sofas and a white-draped booth. Both the staff and guests are young and handsome, the DJs are hot and it gets packed enough to draw lines outside. Good for ‘after office’ and ‘pre-dance’ parties, and big on Halloween bashes.
CASA CRUZ
4833-1112; Uriarte 1658; 8:30-late Mon-Sat
Some consider this slick restaurant-bar the fanciest scene in BA – and they wouldn’t be far off the mark. Casa Cruz certainly is beautiful, attracting its fair share of celebrities and other famous faces, with impressive front doors, a slick black-and-red color scheme and an exclusive air. Dress sexy, take a dainty seat near the oval bar and get ready to see and be seen.
CHUECA
4834-6373; www.chueca-restobar.com.ar; Honduras 5255; 9pm-late Tue-Sat
An exclusively gay restaurant-bar, Chueca offers an upscale experience in the stylish atmosphere of an old refurbished house. There are drag shows nearly every night, and on weekends ‘pre-dance’ events keep things lively up until 2am, when the clientele start thinking about hitting those nightclubs. Wednesday is Chicas Chuecas – for lesbians. There’s a great little terrace upstairs; come early if you want dinner.
CONGO
4833-5857; Honduras 5329; 8:30pm-3:30am Tue-Sun
The highlight at this beautiful and trendy bar is the back patio – the place to be seen on hot summer nights, with its slick bar, leafy atmosphere and comfy wood booths. The music is tops, too, with DJs spinning from Wednesday to Saturday, and inside there are elegant low lounges in creative spaces. A full food menu is available, along with some tasty, stiff cocktails.
DRINK GALLERY
4775-3604; Chenaut 1794; 7pm-late Mon, 12:30pm-late Tue-Sun
Head up to the 2nd-floor rooftop terrace at this slick restaurant-bar – on a hot night it has the best seats in the house. Big on American football? It shows NFL games in season, and to add that extra umpff there’s beer pong night on Tuesday. Order from a large range of martinis, premium vodkas and cocktails – or try the wine float (wine with a dollop of ice cream). Dinner is available earlier on, plus brunch on weekends.
EL CARNAL
4772-7582; Niceto Vega 5511; 9pm-late Tue-Sat
The open-air roof patio here, with its bamboo lounges and billowy curtains, can’t be beat for a cool chill-out on a warm summer night. On Fridays the reggae rocks, while Saturdays mean pop and ’80s beats. Come earlier for a meal down below, but don’t worry about queuing for drinks – there are bars on both floors.
HOME HOTEL
4778-1008; Honduras 5860; noon-late
Mixing up some of Palermo’s best cocktails is the Home Hotel’s intimate bar-restaurant. During the day you can relax in the grassy garden in full view of the slick infinity pool. At night, settle down at the polished cement bar and have Norman Barone (voted BA’s best barman in 2006) mix you up a signature house cocktail or pour you one of 22 infused vodkas, carefully kept at -10°C. Friday evenings are livened up by DJ parties. Breakfast, lunch and evening tapas are available.
JANIO
4833-6540; Malabia 1805; 8am-4am
Still one of the trendiest, most popular restaurant-bars in the neighborhood, Janio boasts an excellent corner location on Plaza Palermo Viejo. By day lounge at a sidewalk table watching the crowd, while at night the airy rooftop terrace is an excellent hangout. Nibble from the international menu while sipping a frozen margarita or cool whiskey shot – you’re with the cool crowd now.
KIM Y NOVAK
4773-7521; Guemes 4900; 9:30pm-late Tue-Sun
Especially popular with the gays and expats, this intimate corner bar has great onda (vibes). Come before 2am if you want to chat, because it really gets packed in the early hours – especially later in the week when the basement dance floor opens. Strut your stuff anytime on the stripper pole next to the counter, plying yourself with the fruti jojo (house drink) for extra confidence.
MUNDO BIZARRO
4773-1967; Serrano 1222; 8pm-3am Sun-Wed, till 4am Thu, till 5am Fri & Sat
Sporting the best neon sign in town is this red-lit, futuristically retro and stylishly slick lounge bar. It’s open pretty much all through the night on weekends, when everything from old-time American music to hip DJs to jazz stir up the air waves. Thursdays is ladies night (two for one, girls); if you feel lucky hop on the stripper pole and grab some attention. For the hungry there’s sushi on Mondays and hamburgers nightly.
SITGES
4861-3763; www.sitgesonline.com.ar; Av Córdoba 4119; 10:30pm-late Wed-Sun
Dangerously stuffed on a Saturday night, this mostly gay ‘pre-disco’ bar plays loud, beat-laden music for amorous crowds. On Sundays karaoke is king, on Wednesdays and Thursdays there’s a drag and stripper show, and Fridays means all-you-can-drink…really. And notice that phone at your table? If somebody across the room calls, they’re interested. Entry is a minimum consumption of AR$10 to AR$18.
UNICO
4775-6693; Honduras 5604; 8:30am-6am Sun-Thu, 8:30pm-6am Fri & Sat
If you like your bars loud and crowded, you’ll love this classic corner magnet – still popular after all these years. It’s not overly large, so on weekends people tend to spill out the door and onto the sidewalk tables and even the street. Plenty of tapas, sandwiches and salads, along with the ultra cool music, could make it a long night – which is perfectly acceptable since it’s open till 6am.
VAN KONING
4772-9909; Av Báez 325; 8pm-late
Wonderfully rustic spaces make this decidedly unglamorous Dutch-themed pub feel like the inside of a boat; after all, it’s a 17th century–style seafaring theme complete with dark wood beams, flickering candles and blocky furniture. Bars on two floors serve 40 kinds of both local and imported brews, with Heineken, Guinness and Quilmes on draft. A magnet for expats; the first Wednesday of the month is Dutch night.
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VILLA CRESPO, CABALLITO, ONCE & BOEDO
Villa Crespo, Boedo and neighboring areas are up-and-coming, mostly residential neighborhoods whose cheap rents have attracted some interesting bars.
CASA BRANDON
4858-0610; www.brandongayday.com.ar; Luis María Drago 236; Wed-Sun
Located a bit off the beaten path in Villa Crespo, this meeting spot is so much more than just a restaurant-bar. The concept at Casa Brandon is to promote art in the context of sexual diversity. There’s an art gallery that showcases paintings and photographs, and you can watch movies or take in a live music performance. And for those who need a bit more excitement, there are karaoke and drag party nights. It also organizes the fun gay parties called Brandon Gay Day.
CERVECERÍA COSSAB
4925-2505; Carlos Calvo 4199; 6:30pm-1:30am Wed-Thu, till 4:30am Fri, 9pm-4:30am Sat
Beer-lovers unite, and head down to bohemian Boedo and this dedicated beer bar – unique for BA. Around 100 different suds are represented, including seven house-made options. Brews come from around Argentina and many other countries (including Germany, Mexico, Canada). Plenty of snack foods, from cheese plates to sandwiches, help sop up the alcohol, and on Wednesday there’s all-you-can-eat pizza. Occasionally open Sunday.
KLUB KILLER
4932-9261; Castro Barros 809; from midnight Fri & Sat
Stray off the beaten tourist-drinking path and land yourself at Klub Killer, a slightly upscale bar located in an old house with antique-looking couches and retro touches. The atmosphere is bathed in sexy red lighting, and good international rock fills the air. It’s a great place to hang and order some reasonably priced cocktails, but you might have trouble finding it; following the recent BA trend of ‘closed-door’ venues, there’s no sign outside. Just ring the bell to be let in.
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CAFÉS
Cafés are an integral part of porteño life, and you shouldn’t miss popping into one of these beloved hangouts to sip dainty cups of coffee and nibble biscuits with the locals. There are plenty of cafés in the city, and while you’re walking around seeing the sights you’re bound to run across one and find an excuse for a break. Some cafés are old classics and guaranteed to take you back in time.
Most cafés serve all meals and everything in between (including a late-night snack). For a background on these legacies of Argentine social history see the boxed text (opposite).
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THE CENTER
The center has some of the oldest cafés in town. They’re wonderfully atmospheric and offer a welcome break while you’re wandering around the center.
CAFÉ RICHMOND
4322-1341; Florida 468; 7am-10pm Mon-Sat
Feel like challenging the male locals to a billiards game or chess match? Then head to the basement of this very traditional café, which has been around since 1917. Better yet, just sink yourself into a leather chair upstairs and admire the Dutch chandeliers and English-style surroundings while sipping your hot chocolate – just like Jorge Luis Borges did. Borges didn’t have the choice of 20 kinds of coffee, however.
CAFÉ TORTONI
4342-4328; www.cafetortoni.com.ar; Av de Mayo 825; 8am-3am Mon-Sat, 8am-1am Sun
Always cited as Buenos Aires’ oldest and most famous café, the classic Tortoni has become so popular with foreigners in recent years that it’s practically turned into a tourist trap. You can buy Tortoni souvenirs, get bad service by rude waiters serving overpriced refreshments and, if it gets too busy, there’s a line out the door. It is a beautiful place, but not the only game in town. There are also up to four tango shows nightly (AR $40 to AR$50), but reserve ahead because they do fill up; if you feel lucky, you can come at show time and hope for no-shows. The basement venue isn’t fancy but it’s pleasant enough.
LA PUERTO RICO
4331-2215; Adolfo Alsina 416; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat
One of the city’s most historic cafés, going strong since 1887. Located a block south of Plaza de Mayo, La Puerto Rico serves great coffee and pastries, the latter baked on the premises. Old photos on the walls hint at a rich past and the Spanish movies that have been filmed here. A good place to come that’s not too touristy.
LONDON CITY
4343-0328; Av de Mayo 599; 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, till 7pm Sat
After you’ve shopped your way down Florida, this swank and classy café offers a good rest for those tired feet. It’s been serving java addicts for over 50 years, and claims to have been the spot where Julio Cortázar wrote his first novel. Your hardest work here, however, will most likely be choosing which luscious pastry to consume with your freshly brewed coffee – before you continue buzzing your way up the avenue.
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CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES
This neighborhood offers a couple of interesting cafés in which to relax, including a remodeled beauty.
CAFÉ DE LOS ANGELITOS
4952-3078; Rivadavia 2100; 7am-2am Sun-Thu, till 3am Fri & Sat
Originally called Bar Rivadavia, this café was once the haunt of poets, musicians…and even criminals, and was ironically called ‘los angelitos’ (the angels) by a police commissioner in the early 1900s. Recently restored to its former glory, this historic café is now an elegant hangout. You can sit down and have a cup of tea or a meal during the day, then see tango (AR$170, show plus dinner AR$250) at night. One thing that sets this tango show apart from the others is an angelic, four-woman orchestra, which adds a higher-pitched edge to some dance numbers. Stay a while and enjoy a slice of BA’s shady past.
EL GATO NEGRO
4374-1730; Av Corrientes 1669; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 3-11pm Sun
Tea-lined wooden cabinets and a spicy aroma welcome you to this pleasant little sipping paradise. Enjoy imported cups of coffee or tea, along with breakfast and dainty sandwiches de miga (thin crustless sandwiches, traditionally eaten at tea time). Tea is sold by the pound, and a range of exotic herbs and spices are also on offer. A few dishes are available for the hungry.
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RETIRO
Retiro’s a busy place full of businesspeople who need a break from work, so there are many cafés in the area that cater to them.
FLORIDA GARDEN
4312-7902; Florida 899; 6:30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 7am-10pm Sat, 8am-10pm Sun
Usually full of businesspeople drinking up a storm of coffee, this two-story café – sporting modern touches such as glass walls and copper-covered columns – was historically popular with politicians, artists and writers. In fact, Jorge Luis Borges and Pérez Célis (a famous Argentine painter) used to hang out here before the era of skinny lattes. The people-watching is excellent, both inside the café and out.
NUCHA
4813-9507; Paraná 1343; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun
Modern, trendy and very popular are good terms to describe this little café right across from Plaza Vicente López. There must be something in the tempting pastry counter – cheesecake, medialunas (croissants) or lightly layered afternoon cake – to go with your imported tea, iced coffee with ice cream or mate (a popular local tea). Large crowds, ranging from old ladies to slick young hipsters, flood in for afternoon tea and sandwichitos de miga. Breakfast is also served. Another branch lies in Las Cañitas, near the corner of Maure and Migueletes.
PETIT PARIS CAFÉ
4312-5885; Av Santa Fe 774; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat
Well located, this small but elegant café is a great stop for your daily java jolt. Large picture windows provide views of Plaza San Martín, while the busy street traffic offers a good sense of this bustling city. It’s a popular place with both businesspeople and little old ladies and yes, it does have a slightly Parisian feel.
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RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
There are also a few historical spots to linger in here. Otherwise tea lovers should head to Tea Connection, while juice fans can visit Pura Vida.
CLÁSICA Y MODERNA
4812-8707; www.clasicaymoderna.com; Av Callao 892; 8am-2am Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am Sun
Catering to the literary masses since 1938, this cozy and intimate bookstore-café continues to ooze history from its atmospheric brick walls. It’s nicely lit, offers plenty of reading material and serves upscale meals. There are regular live performances of folk music, jazz, bossa nova and tango; Mercedes Sosa, Susana Rinaldi and Liza Minnelli have all chirped here.
LA BIELA
4804-0449; Av Quintana 600; 8am-3am Mon-Sat, 9am-3am Sun
A Recoleta institution, this classic landmark has been serving the porteño elite since the 1950s – when race-car champions used to frequent the place. The outdoor front terrace is unbeatable on a sunny afternoon, especially when the nearby weekend feria (street market) is in full swing. Just know that this honor costs 20% more. Some of the ‘special coffees’ are laced with alcohol.
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VILLA CRESPO, ONCE, CABALLITO & BOEDO
As Palermo becomes more and more expensive, these traditionally blue-collar neighborhoods – east of the center and south of Palermo – are slowly gentrifying and attracting their own attention. Esquina Homero Manzi is a classic, and honors a famous poet and tango composer.
LAS VIOLETAS
4958-7387; Av Rivadavia 3899; 8am-2am
Dating back to 1884, this historic coffeehouse was renovated in 2001 into the gorgeous place it is today. Lovely stained-glass windows and awnings, high ceilings, cream-colored ionic columns and gilded details make this café possibly the most beautiful in the capital. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner service is available – along with a luxurious afternoon tea – so you can pretend to be royalty while reveling in your surroundings.