THE ARTS


DISCOUNT TICKETS & BOOKING

TANGO

SHOWS

MILONGAS

CLASSES

FLAMENCO

OTHER DANCE STYLES

THEATER

CLASSICAL MUSIC

CINEMA







What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/buenos-aires

THE ARTS

What’s a visit to Buenos Aires without going to a tango extravaganza? There are more shows than you can shake your booty at, from casual and dirt cheap (that is, street buskers) to footloose and fancy. Afterwards, consider keeping those toes on track with a tango class, then head to a milonga (tango hall) and put those moves to the test.

Love theater? Then take in a play – there are dozens of theater companies putting on excellent productions, be it singing, dancing, acting or all three. What about classical music? Yup, there are quite a few venues for that as well. And everyone likes going out to the movies – you’ll find both independent films and recent blockbusters screening at classic old theaters or modern multiplexes. When it comes to artsy fun, you can find something to do every day of the week in this town.

To help you get started, see our listings below. And for current happenings, check the newspapers – most have entertainment supplements published on Friday. The Buenos Aires Herald’s ‘Get Out’ is in English and particularly handy.

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DISCOUNT TICKETS & BOOKING

Major entertainment venues often require booking through Ticketek ( 5237-7200; www.ticketek.com.ar). The service charge is about 10% of the ticket price.

Carteleras (discount ticket offices) along Av Corrientes sell a limited number of heavily discounted tickets for many entertainment events, such as movies, live theater and tango shows, with savings of 20% to 50%. Buy tickets as far in advance as possible, but if you want to see a show or movie on short notice – especially at midweek – you can also phone or drop by to check what’s available.

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TANGO

Once a furtive dance relegated to the red-light brothels of early 1900s Buenos Aires, tango has experienced great highs and lows throughout its volatile lifespan. These days, however, the sensual dance is back with a vengeance. Everyone from Seattle to Shanghai seems to be slinking their way down the parquet floor, trying to connect with their partner and memorize those elusive dance steps and rhythm that make the tango so damn hard to perfect. And many of them are jet-setting it to BA, creating their own pilgrimage to the city where the dance first began.

Tango’s popularity is booming at both amateur and professional levels, and among all ages and classes. Traditional tango dancers will always be around, and can be seen at classic old milongas. There’s no stopping evolution, however – nuevo tango, born in the late 1990s, was originally seeded by Ástor Piazzolla (Click here) in the 1950s when he incorporated jazz and classical beats into traditional tango music. Dancers improvised new moves into their traditional base steps, utilizing a more open embrace and switching leads (among other things). Neo tango, the latest musical step in tango’s changing landscape, fuses the dance with electronica for some decidedly nonstodgy beats that have done a superlative job of attracting the younger generation to this astounding dance. For more on tango and its history, Click here.

Two of the best sources on local tango trends are the free booklets El Tangauta and BA Tango, both of which are chock-full of ads for shows, classes and milongas. They’re often available at tango venues or tourist offices. The website www.tangodata.gov.ar has tons of information on the city’s milongas, classes and shows, as well as national and international festivals. Also check www.letstango.com.ar, which is partly in English.

For tango tours, check www.tangofocus.com or www.tangoafficionaldo.com. Tangol (www.tangol.com) is a BA tour agency that offers tango classes, shows, tours and more. For tango shoes, Click here; for a tango museum, Click here.

Accommodations catering to tango enthusiasts include Mansion Dandi Royal, Lina’s Tango Guesthouse, and Caserón Porteño Click here. All offer on-site classes.

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SHOWS

If there’s one thing Buenos Aires isn’t short of, it’s tango shows. Dozens of venues cater to this famous Argentine dance, and many of them are expensive, tourist-oriented spectacles that don’t come close to what purists consider ‘authentic’ tango. These glamorized shows are still very entertaining and awe-inspiring, however, often showcasing amazing feats of grace and athleticism. They usually include various tango couples, an orchestra, a singer or two and possibly some folkloric musicians. All come with a dinner option, but food can be hit or miss. VIP options mean a much higher price tag for better views and refreshments. Nearly all require advance reservations, and some include pick-up from your hotel. And speaking of hotels, many will book tango shows for you – which is fine, since sometimes the price is similar to what you’d pay at the venue anyway; check to make sure.

More modest shows cost far less, and some are even free but require you to order a meal or drink at their restaurant. If you don’t mind eating there this is a decent deal. Many milongas (Click here) have good, affordable shows. For free (or donation) tango, head to San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon. Dancers do their thing right in the middle of Plaza Dorrego, though you have to stake out a spot to snag a good view. Another sure bet is weekends on El Caminito in La Boca; it’s not quite as crowded here as in San Telmo. If you don’t want to head so far south, however, see what’s happening on Calle Florida in front of Galerías Pacíficos – there are usually dancers entertaining a crowd there, too. All of these buskers are quite good, so remember to toss some change into their hats.

One thing to note: nearly all tango shows are touristy by nature. They’ve been sensationalized to make them more exciting for observers. ‘Authentic’ tango (which happens at milongas) is a very subtle art, primarily done for the pleasure of the dancers. It’s not something so much to be observed as experienced, and not nearly as interesting to the casual spectator. Going to a milonga just to watch isn’t all that cool, anyway – folks are there to dance. So feel free to see a more flashy tango show and enjoy those spectacular high leg kicks – be wowed like the rest of the crowd.

BOCA TANGO

Map

4302-0808; www.bocatango.com.ar; Brandsen 923; show AR$170, dinner & show AR$240

What makes Boca Tango unique is the preshow theatrics. A minirepresentation of La Boca’s colorful conventillos (old tenements) has been set up outside the main theater, and performers act out the barrio’s history while interacting with guests. Dinner is set up at a nearby casual dining room in antique surroundings, while the main act takes place on an intimate stage. Unlike at some other shows, children are welcome here. Transport is included, which is fortunate since La Boca isn’t the safest neighborhood.

CAFÉ HOMERO

Map

4775-6763; www.cafehomero.cancionero.net; José Antonio Cabrera 4946; shows AR$25-60

This cozy tango venue in Palermo Viejo offers intimate shows that feature tango singers rather than dancers. It has great local flavor and pretty much all the seats are good, whether they’re close to the stage or on the small balcony above. In December 2007, tango singing matriarch Adriana Varela crooned here. Food is available and admission usually includes a drink.

CAMINITO TANGO SHOW

Map

4301-1520; Del Valle Iberlucea 1151

For something much less glamorous and less expensive than many other shows in town, there’s this casual and modest restaurant in La Boca. It won’t weigh on your wallet at all; in fact, the performance is free when you sit down for the inexpensive Argentine lunch (the limited dishes run AR$10 to AR$25). Show times can vary widely, so call ahead to find out the current schedule and reserve a table.

CENTRO CULTURAL TORQUATO TASSO

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4307-6506; www.torquatotasso.com.ar; Defensa 1575; shows AR$10-20

One of BA’s best live music venues, Torquato Tasso often features top-name tango music performances. Keep an eye out for La Chicana, Sexteto Mayor or Fernández Fierro, some excellent local tango groups. The Tasso also tends to attract bands that mix genres together, such as fusing tango or folklore with rock. The atmosphere is great and the space perfectly sized, but for uninterrupted views avoid tables outside the center section.

COMPLEJO TANGO

Map

4308-3234; www.complejotango.com.ar; Av Belgrano 2608; show AR$160, dinner & show AR$220

For those who wish to not only watch tango but also experience it, there’s this classy venue in Balvanera. Should you choose to accept it, your first hour here is a free beginning tango lesson. Follow it up with a tasty dinner, then a fine tango show – beware, however, as the performers go around towards the end, picking out audience members to dance with them (usually badly).

EL BALCÓN

Map

4362-2354; Humberto Primo 461, 1st fl

If you’re lucky enough to snag a balcony spot on a Sunday afternoon, you can watch both the tango show here and the antiques fair on Plaza Dorrego at the same time. This restaurant puts on free shows, but you do have to order some food – basic Argentine fare like empanadas, burgers and parrilla (mixed grill). Tango shows run Friday and Saturday night at 10pm, plus continuously on Sundays from 1pm to midnight.

PIAZZOLLA TANGO

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4344-8201; www.piazollatango.com; Florida 165; show AR$180, dinner & show AR$240

Smack on Calle Florida, underneath a shopping center, this beautifully luscious art nouveau theater used to be a red-light cabaret venue – which explains its odd basement location. Like the style of Ástor Piazzolla, the tango show here is a combination of old and new; it’s based on tradition, but some moves are so athletic they seem more like circus acts. Other pluses are the food and service, which are both exceptional.

EL QUERANDÍ

Map

5199-1770; www.querandi.com.ar; Perú 302; show AR$175, dinner & show AR$250

This large corner tango venue is also a traditional and elegant restaurant, boasting upscale atmosphere with dark-wood details. The excellent show starts around 10:15pm and is one of the better ones in town, taking you through the evolution of tango over the years. One plus is a high stage, which makes viewing easier.

EL VIEJO ALMACÉN

Map

4307-7388; www.viejoalmacen.com; cnr Balcarce & Independencia; show AR$165, dinner & show AR$240

One of Buenos Aires’ longest-running shows (since 1969), this highly regarded tango show is located in a charming old building from the 1800s. Dinner is served at a restaurant in the main building, then everyone heads across the small street to the theater, which holds around 240 spectators. The show is a bit less sensationalized than similar shows, but is still pretty glitzy. Pluses include a folklore segment.

ESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL

Map

4867-6363; www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar; Carlos Gardel 3200; show AR$170, dinner & show AR$250

One of the fanciest tango shows in town plays at this impressive 500-seat theater, an old cabaret right next to the lovely shopping mall Mercado de Abasto. The Abasto neighborhood was once Carlos Gardel’s old stomping ground, and he even hung out at this locale. The memorable show starts with a good film about the area, then goes on to highlight top-notch musicians and performers.

ESQUINA HOMERO MANZI

Map

4957-8488; www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar; Av San Juan 3601; show AR$180, dinner & show AR$260

The best part about this tango venue is its location, right on the historical intersection of San Juan and Boedo. An impressively refurbished old café, Homero Manzi was named after one of Argentina’s most famous tango lyricists. Today, you can take tango lessons here, then sit back and watch a good tango show that attempts to ‘magically transport you back to old Buenos Aires.’ With 499 other spectators next to you, this might be quite a feat.

ESQUINA OSVALDO PUGLIESE

Map

4931-2142; Boedo 909; show excluding minimum consumption AR$12-18

Actually called Recuerdo Café, this venue is on a historic street corner just a block north of Esquina Homero Manzi, another historic corner with a much fancier (and much more expensive) tango show. The show here is on a smaller stage in more modest surroundings, with a lot fewer performers doing less fancy footwork. It’s still tango, however, and at a fraction of the price; head over to Homero Manzi later and with the money you saved, get yourself a nice meal or two.

LA VENTANA

Map

4331-0127; www.la-ventana.com.ar; Balcarce 431; show AR$175, dinner & show AR$250

The atmosphere at this long-running venue, located in an old converted building, will take you back in time. There are two salons, both with rustic brick walls and ceilings, and rough-hewn wood beams; one has an impressive stained-glass ceiling. A 20-minute folklore show includes a display of boleadores (balls on strings that gauchos used to tangle up prey). The tango show is also good, and there are 30 performers in total.

SEÑOR TANGO

Map

4303-0231; www.senortango.com.ar; Vietes 1655; show AR$80, dinner & show AR$240

The most outrageous of them all, Señor Tango is the closest you’ll get to a Las Vegas show in Buenos Aires. With dozens of performers, live horses, two tiers of balconies and over 1500 seats, this granddaddy of tango shows is – for good or bad – an unforgettable experience. As long as you take it for what it is (that is, not authentic tango) you’ll be fine, and can join with Sting, Salma Hayek, Ivana Trump and Hillary and Bill Clinton in saying that you’ve spent an evening here.

TANGO ROJO

Map

4010-9200; www.rojotango.com; Faena Hotel & Universe, Martha Salotti 445; show AR$310, dinner & show AR$465

This sexy performance is the tango show to top all others – especially with its hefty price tag. Offering only 120 seats, the Faena’s El Cabaret room is swathed in blood-red curtains and gilded furniture. The show itself loosely follows the history of tango, starting from its cabaret roots to the modern fusions of Ástor Piazzolla. The orchestra is first-rate, there are plenty of period costumes and even a brief (shock!) nudity scene. The drinks are exceptional, but the food can be surprisingly bland.

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MILONGAS

Milongas are dance halls where people strut their tango skills. The atmosphere at these salons can be modern or historical, casual or traditional. Most have tango DJs that determine musical selections, but a few utilize live orchestras. The dance floor is surrounded by many tables and chairs, and this is where the subtle rules of code take place – determining who dances with whom. For more on tango etiquette, Click here.

Milongas start either in the afternoon and run until 11pm, or start at around midnight and run until the early-morning light (arrive late for the best action). They’re affordable, with entry usually costing AR$12 to AR$20 per person. Classes are often offered before milongas and cost about AR$20 for group sessions.

For a unique outdoor experience, head to the bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgrano (Map), where the casual milonga ‘La Glorieta’ takes place on Sunday evening around 8pm. Free tango classes are given at 7pm.

CONFITERÍA IDEAL

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5265-8069; www.confiteriaideal.com; Suipacha 384

This old classic (since 1912) is the mother of all historic tango halls, with many classes and milongas offered every single day – and pretty much continuously. Live orchestras often accompany dancers, the atmosphere is classic and the history rich. Shows occur almost nightly (AR$40). The actual café section could use a face-lift, as it’s a bit dim, stodgy and impersonal, but it remains a Buenos Aires experience. Plus at the right times you can listen to the music and dancers above while sipping your cortado (coffee with milk).

EL BESO

Map

4953-2794; Riobamba 416

Another traditional and popular place, El Beso attracts some very good dancers – and is a bit snobby for it. Located upstairs, it has very good music and a cozy feel; the bar is conveniently placed near the entrance.

GRICEL

Map

4957-7157; www.clubgricel.com; La Rioja 1180

This old classic (far from the center; take a taxi) is open on weekends, attracting an older, well-dressed crowd – along with plenty of tourists. It has a wonderful dance floor and boasts occasional live orchestras.

LA CATEDRAL

Map

15-5325-1630; Sarmiento 4006

If tango can be trendy and hip, this is where you’ll find it. The grungy warehouse space is very casual, with funky art on the walls and jeans on the dancers. The best milongas are on Tuesday and weekends, and they’re nontraditional, of course.

LA MARSHALL

Map

4912-9043; www.lamarshall.com.ar; Maipú 444

Everyone’s welcome, but La Marshall is best known for its Tuesday night ‘Tango Queer’ – that’s right, gay tango. Come at 10pm for a class, then at 11:30pm the milonga starts (dancers of all orientations tear up the floor).

LA VIRUTA

Map

4774-6357; www.lavirutatango.com; Armenia 1366

This unusually located venue is in the basement of the Asociación Cultural Armenia building. Milongas take place in the evenings from Wednesday to Sunday. Good beginner tango classes are also available, as are tango shows.

NIÑO BIEN

Map

4147-8687; Humberto Primo 1462

Its tango show takes place on Thursdays and attracts a wide range of aficionados – including many tourists. Expect a beautiful atmosphere, a large ballroom and a good dance floor, but note it still gets very, very crowded (come early and dress well). Take a taxi as it’s far from the center.

SALON CANNING

Map

4832-6753; Av Scalabrini Ortiz 1331

Some of BA’s finest dancers (no wallflowers here) grace this traditional venue with its great dance floor. Well-known tango company Parakultural (www.parakultural.com.ar) often stages good events here involving live music, tango DJs, singers and dancers. Milongas and classes are offered every day. It gets crowded.

SIN RUMBO

Map

4571-9577; Tamborini 6157

One of the oldest tango joints in BA, Sin Rumbo is considered the ‘cathedral’ of tango and has given rise to a few famous tango dancers. It’s a local neighborhood place that attracts older professionals, who use those subtle dance codes to choose their partners. Far from the center in Villa Urquiza; it’s best to take a taxi.

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CLASSES

Tango classes are available just about everywhere, from youth hostels to dance academies (opposite) to cultural centers Click here to nearly all milongas Click here. Even a few cafés and tango shows offer them.

Private teachers are also ubiquitous; there are so many good ones that it’s best to ask someone you trust for a recommendation. And with so many foreigners flooding into Buenos Aires, many teach in English or other languages. For more on classes and instructors, check free tango publications such as El Tangauta and BA Tango.

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FLAMENCO

With so many porteños boasting Spanish ancestry, its not surprising that there are a few flamenco venues in town. Most are located in Congreso’s Spanish neighborhood, near the intersection of Salta and Av de Mayo.

ÁVILA BAR

Map

4383-6974; Av de Mayo 1384; Wed-Sat

Offering flamenco for years now is this cozy little Spanish restaurant. Compared to other venues the dinner-shows here aren’t a bargain – on Wednesday and Thursday they run AR$70, and on Friday and Saturday they’re AR$90 – but mains can include rabbit, paella and seafood stews, with dessert and drinks thrown in. Shows start around 11pm and reservations are a must on weekends.

CANTARES

Map

4381-6965; www.cantarestablao.com.ar; Av Rivadavia 1180; Wed-Sun

This flamenco venue, located in the old Taberna Español, once hosted the Spanish poet Federico García Lorca. It’s a small space with only 85 seats, providing a wonderfully intimate space for the highly authentic dances (AR$35 to AR$65). Either drinks or tapas are included; reserve ahead. Flamenco classes are also available.

TIEMPO DE GITANOS

Map

4776-6143; www.tiempodegitanos.com.ar; El Salvador 5575; Wed-Sun

This venue in Palermo Hollywood (named as such for the number of TV and radio producers who installed themselves here in the mid-’90s) offers excellent flamenco shows in an intimate restaurant setting, but – unlike the dancing – the tapas and seafood paella might be less than authentic. Dinner-shows cost AR$60 to AR$80; reserve in advance.

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OTHER DANCE STYLES

Buenos Aires has a few other dances to keep your toes twirling. Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas has an especially wide selection of dance classes.

For salsa classes, try Latin clubs such as Azúcar and La Salsera – best of all, you can practice your moves later when the club doors open. La Viruta (opposite) also has salsa classes, as does Centro Cultural Amerinda (Map; 4863-8401; Guardia Vieja 3559).

The best place to check out some Brazilian beats is Escuela Brasileña de Danzas (Map; 4963-6066; www.balaioweb.com; Mansilla 2787), which also has capoeira classes. Learn flamenco at Cantares (above).

For contemporary dance there’s the alternative theater El Camarín de las Musas (Map; 4862-0655; www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar; Mario Bravo 960). Nearly all cultural centers Click here also offer this art form, along with a few theaters such as Espacio Callejón and El Cubo.

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THEATER

Traditionally, the center for theater has been Av Corrientes between Av 9 de Julio and Callao, but there are now dozens of venues all over the city. During the peak winter season, upwards of a hundred different events may take place, though you can find a good variety of shows any time during the year. The Buenos Aires Herald and other local newspapers are a good source for listings of major theater productions.

Many alternative (or ‘off-Corrientes’) theater companies and independent troupes receive relatively little attention from the mainstream media, but they’re worth seeking out if you’re looking for something different. See the boxed text Click here for a list of these organizations. And if you read Spanish, www.alernativateatral.com is a good source for current nonmainstream performances.

Theater tickets are generally affordable, but check carteleras (discount ticket offices; Click here) for bargain seats. For more on the BA theater scene, see the Background chapter Click here.

TEATRO DE LA RIBERA

Map

4302-9024; www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 1821

This small, colorful theater, funded by famous Argentine painter Benito Quinquela Martín, was built in 1971 and holds nearly 650 seats. Check out the upright piano in the lobby; it was painted by Martín.

TEATRO DEL PUEBLO

Map

4326-3606; www.teatrodelpueblo.org.ar; Diagonal Roque Saénz Peña 943

A smaller venue with two halls in the basement, this theater – one of the first independent theatres in Argentina – shows both classic and contemporary productions at affordable prices.

TEATRO GENERAL SAN MARTÍN

Map

0800-333-5254; www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1530

This major venue has several auditoriums (the largest seats over a thousand) and showcases international cinema, theater, dance and classical music, covering both conventional and more unusual events. It also has art galleries and often hosts impressive photography exhibitions.

TEATRO GRAN REX

Map

4322-8000; Av Corrientes 857

A huge theater seating 3500, this place hosts myriad national and international musical productions, from Cindi Lauper to Kenny G to Bjork.

TEATRO PASEO LA PLAZA

Map

6320-5350; www.paseolaplaza.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1660

Located in a small and pleasant outdoor shopping mall, this complex features several theater halls that run both classic and contemporary productions, including tango, theater and comedy.

TEATRO OPERA

Map

4326-1335; Av Corrientes 860

This classic theater, which boasts an art deco exterior, offers over 2400 seats and has performances that range from piano recitals to rock concerts to tango and ballet. It served many years as a movie cinema, later becoming a live theater venue.

TEATRO PRESIDENTE ALVEAR

Map

4374-6076; www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar; Av Corrientes 1659

Inaugurated in 1942 and named after an Argentine president whose wife sang opera, this theater holds over 700 and shows many musical productions, including tango. Occasional free shows are on offer.

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CLASSICAL MUSIC

Several venues in BA offer classical music concerts. To catch the local band, look up the Orquesta Filarmónica de Buenos Aires, which plays at the Teatro Colón and often features guest conductors from throughout Latin America. Teatro Colón Click here is one of Buenos Aires’ top entertainment venues; every­one who’s anyone has played, acted, sung or danced here. The classical music scene takes a break from December to February, and is best from June to August.

LA SCALA DE SAN TELMO

Map

4362-1187; www.lascala.org.ar; Pasaje Guiffra 371

This small San Telmo venue, located in a refurbished colonial building, puts on classical and contemporary concerts that highlight piano, tango, musical comedies and other musical-related shows and workshops.

TEATRO AVENIDA

Map

4384-0519; www.balirica.org.ar; Av de Mayo 1222

In 1979 a fire closed down this beautiful 1906 theater for 15 years, but it was later restored to its former glory. Today the Avenida highlights Argentine productions, mostly classical music, ballet and flamenco – but its biggest strength is opera.

TEATRO COLISEO

Map

4816-3789; www.fundacioncoliseo.com.ar; MT de Alvear 1125

Classical music, ballet, opera and symphony orchestras entertain at this theater most of the year, but a few surprises – such as Argentine-American rock star Kevin Johansen – occasionally show up.

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CINEMA

Buenos Aires is full of cinemas, whether they be historical neon classics or slick modern multiplexes (see boxed text below). The traditional cinema districts are along pedestrian Lavalle (west of Florida) and on Av Corrientes and Santa Fe – all walking distance from downtown. Newer cinemas, however, aren’t necessarily located in any one particular area – many are in shopping malls spread throughout the city. Not surprisingly, most newer places show international blockbusters, while quirkier underground flicks have to seek out less conventional venues.

Ticket prices are reasonable (the most expensive hover around AR$17) and most cinemas offer big discounts for matinees, midweek shows or first screenings of the day (when tickets are about AR$12). There is usually a trasnoche (midnight or later showing) scheduled for Friday and Saturday night.

Check the Buenos Aires Herald (an English-language newspaper) for the original titles of English-language films. The entertainment sections of all the major newspapers will have movie listings as well, but be aware that Spanish translations of English-language film titles often don’t translate directly. Except for children’s films and cartoon features, which are dubbed, foreign films almost always appear in their original language with Spanish subtitles.

Cine Cosmos (Map; 4953-5405; www.cinecosmos.com; Av Corrientes 2046) and Sala Leopoldo Lugones (Map; 0800-333-5254; Av Corrientes 1530) – in Teatro General San Martín – often show retrospectives, documentaries, foreign film cycles and art-house movies. Espacio INCAA (Map; 4371-3050; Av Rivadavia 1635) screens Ibero-American films only (essentially from Spanish- or Portuguese-speaking countries).

Some cultural centers Click here have their own small cinemas, while places such as Alianza Francesa and British Arts Centre showcase movies in their respective languages.

For more on the Argentine film industry, Click here.