EATING
What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/buenos-aires
EATING
It’s official: one of the best reasons to visit Buenos Aires is the food. New concepts in cuisine are unlikely to see their beginnings here, but who needs cutting-edge ideas when you have the best steaks in the world? The quality of produce in richly agricultural Argentina is also excellent and restaurants generally do a decent job of preparing dishes, so you’re likely to have a good meal no matter where you end up. In fact, you’ll eat so well in Buenos Aires that the only way you’ll be able to keep the weight off during your visit is by power-walking between lunch and dinner.
For beef lovers this country is a blissful paradise – Buenos Aires is overflowing with parrillas (steakhouses) in every neighborhood, serving perfect slabs of meat for reasonable prices. In fact, you can order a bife de chorizo (sirloin) at many cafés, bars or restaurants, but for the best cuts and selection be sure to visit a parrilla. Pizza and pasta lovers are also well catered for, as Argentina was settled by large Italian immigrant populations that had a major influence on the country’s culture. You won’t have trouble finding these basic foods (steak, pizza and pasta, that is) anywhere in BA. In fact, sometimes that’s all you’ll find.
But those who enjoy more exotic tastes are in luck: Palermo Viejo (a sub-neighborhood of Palermo) has become Buenos Aires’ food mecca in the past few years. Here you can find a range of Armenian, Brazilian, Mexican, French, Indian, Japanese, Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines, and even fusions of several of these. Many are slick and contemporary and, frankly, passing novelties, but there are quite a few shining stars, obvious by their reservation lists and crowded dining rooms.
But it’s not only straight-up restaurants that serve food. Most bars and cafés feature surprisingly large menus, and a few have exceptional food. These venues tend to stay open into the wee morning hours, making them great places for late-night snacks (as in 3am late). See the Drinking chapter Click here for our bar and café listings.
The most thorough online guide to BA restaurants is www.guiaoleo.com (in Spanish); for listings in English, try www.saltshaker.net.
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PRACTICALITIES
Opening Hours
Restaurants are generally open daily from noon to 3:30pm for lunch and 8pm to midnight or 1am for dinner. We note specific hours in reviews only if a restaurant’s opening times are widely different from these. It’s also a good idea to call ahead to confirm hours, since these can change.
Few places open early in the morning since Argentines don’t eat much breakfast, but you can find the occasional breakfast/brunch spot. A sure bet for that morning medialuna (crois-sant) and cortado (coffee with milk) are the city’s many cafés, which often stay open from morning to late at night without a break.
How Much?
Despite the climbing inflation, Buenos Aires is still a very affordable place to eat out – at least for those earning hard currency. At nicer restaurants most dinner mains run from AR$25 to AR$40 – about a third of US or European prices. Lunches are often cheaper, and thus a more affordable time to try the pricier restaurants (just make sure they’re open then). If you have a large appetite, take advantage of tenedor libre (all-you-can-eat) restaurants.
Something to be aware of is that not all places take credit cards – always ask first if you want to use one. Also, many fancy restaurants add a per-person cubierto (cover charge), usually ranging from AR$3 to AR$5, which covers the use of utensils and bread – it does not cover the tip.
Booking Tables
Reservations are usually unnecessary unless the restaurant is very popular, or it’s the weekend. It doesn’t hurt to reserve a table ahead of time to be sure. Porteños are notoriously late diners, and most eat no earlier than 9pm (later on weekends). If you arrive when the restaurant first opens you’re likely to get a table anywhere.
Tipping
You should tip about 10% of the total bill; keep in mind that tips cannot be added to credit-card purchases. The word for tip in Spanish is propina.
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THE CENTER
You won’t find Buenos Aires’ best cuisine in the Center, as most restaurants cater to business power-lunches or quick takeout. Some eateries don’t even open for dinner since the working masses beeline home after the day is done. Even bars tend to open and close relatively early here. All this doesn’t mean you won’t find a decent bite to eat, however, and vegetarians especially will find some good choices. Also, five-star hotels often house top-notch restaurants that are worth a visit – and are definitely open for dinner (with reservations). These include Tomo I in the Panamericano, Le Sud in the Sofitel and El Mercado and El Bistró in the Faena.
SABOT
Map Argentine $$
4313-6587; 25 de Mayo 756; mains AR$25-36; 
lunch Mon-Fri
Big mostly with businesspeople power-lunching their way through the afternoon, this exceptional restaurant features well-prepared traditional food and – according to some – the capital’s best pepper steak and roasted goat. Don’t ignore the daily specials, chalked up on blackboards. Service is professional and customers are like members of an old boys’ club; reservations are a must after 1:30pm.
GRANIX
Map Vegetarian $$
4343-4020; Florida 165, 1st fl; all-you-can-eat AR$25; lunch Mon-Fri
Stepping into this lacto-ovo vegetarian place will make you wonder if porteños have had enough steak already. It’s a large, modern and efficient place, and the best vegetarian cafeteria in the center. Fight with the business masses for a good table (try the mezzanine for a good view), then line up and pick from the many hot appetizers and mains. There’s also a great salad bar and a variety of desserts. Located in a shopping mall, it’s open only for weekday lunches. Takeout available.
LA ESTANCIA
Map Parrilla $$
4326-0330; Lavalle 941; mains AR$20-50; lunch & dinner
For the full-on tourist experience, you can’t do better than La Estancia. Stop by the picture window and snap a photo of yourself in front of the huge spits of roasting meat, then step into the large dining room, have a seat and enjoy the murals. This steakhouse has been serving up grilled goods for decades, but there are also substantial salads for the meek. Though it might seem like a tourist trap, the meat is good and it’s fun enough to be worth it.
BROCCOLINO
Map Mediterranean $$
4322-7754; Esmeralda 776; mains AR$20-35; lunch & dinner
Pick from over 25 sauces (including squid ink!) for your fresh or dry pasta, including rigatoni, fusilli, pappardelle and all sorts of stuffed varieties. If you can’t decide your topper, try the delicious Sicilian sauce (spicy red peppers, tomato and garlic) or the pesto with mushrooms and garlic. Portions are famously large, service is quick and efficient and there are daily specials. Plenty of appetizers and desserts make diets even harder, especially since warm, homemade bread is automatically brought to your table.
LA HUERTA
Map Vegetarian $
4327-2682; Lavalle 895; all-you-can-eat AR$15; lunch daily, dinner Fri & Sat
Here’s another of the Microcentro’s noncarnivore meccas, attracting health-conscious businessfolk at midday. It offers up a buffet full of vegetarian pasta, pizza, empanadas (vegetable pie), omelets, tarts, breaded eggplant and squash stew, along with plenty of salad ingredients and healthy juices. It’s on the 2nd floor, with an efficient and spartan atmosphere that won’t win any prizes for decor.
CALIFORNIA BURRITO COMPANY (CBC)
Map Latin American $
4328-3057; Lavalle 441; mains AR$12-15; 8am-11pm Mon-Fri
This modern burrito joint – claimed by its American owners to be the first in South America – is hugely popular with travelers, expats and the business crowd. Flour tortillas are loaded up with your choice of meat, rice, beans and salsa, and rolled into large, San Francisco–style burritos the likes of which BA has never seen. A tip: get the fuego sauce if you like it mildly spicy. Tacos and salads are lighter options, and if you’re vegetarian there’s a burrito for you. The house margaritas are a nice touch.
PARRILLA AL CARBÓN
Map Parrilla $
4328-0824; Lavalle 663; mains AR$10-26; lunch & dinner
Cheap parrilla doesn’t come easier than this. On a penny-pinching budget? Avoid the modest cubierto charge and go for a quick choripán (spicy sausage sandwich), just AR$3 at the counter in front of the grill. For more comfort and a better view of the TV, snag one of the few, crowded tables and order a half-portion of the vacío (a chewy but tasty flank cut). It’s popular, and well located on pedestrian Lavalle, so go after the lunch rush.
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PUERTO MADERO
One of the city’s best walking areas is Puerto Madero, where cobbled paths border old brick warehouses that have been tastefully converted into expensive offices, lofts and – most importantly for the traveler – fine restaurants. Nearly all of these upscale eateries boast views of the nearby dikes and many sport covered outdoor terraces. You won’t get the best bang for your buck in this elegant strip, and the cuisine isn’t the most inspired, but it’s the location that counts.
Cabaña Las Lilas (Map) is the most famous parrilla restaurant here, but many consider it a tourist trap – a bit overrated and way overpriced. We don’t review it here, but if you have money to burn, by all means try it.
RODIZIO
Map Parrilla $$$
4334-3638; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 838; mains AR$60-70; lunch & dinner
If you love meat and don’t want a headache trying to figure out which cut to order, beeline it to upscale Rodizio, a Brazilian-style churrasquería (all-you-can-eat restaurant). You don’t even have to queue up – just sit pretty at your table and knife-wielding waiters come by to slice chunks of meat off of long spits and right onto your plate. The cuts are all different, so you can be choosy and pace yourself. A cold appetizer buffet, one dessert and a coffee are included in the price.
SIGA LA VACA
Map All-You-Can-Eat $$$
4315-6801; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714; lunch AR$38-52, dinner AR$46-52; lunch & dinner
Only the truly hungry should set foot in this excellent tenedor libre steakhouse, where mountains of food are available for consumption. Work your way from the appetizer/salad bar to the grill, where the good stuff hangs out. Eat slowly and pace yourself and you’ll only need to eat once that day. One drink and a dessert is included in the price, which varies depending on the meal and day.
BICE
Map Mediterranean $$$
4315-6216; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 192; mains AR$32-75; lunch & dinner
With branches all over the world, Bice is best known for its high-quality Italian cuisine. The homemade pastas (both fresh and dry) are exceptional: try the black fettuccini with shrimp or the spinach-and-ricotta ravioli with four-cheese sauce. There’s also a luscious risotto with artichoke and asparagus as well as several meat and fish choices. End it all with gelato, a crepe, mousse with pears or white chocolate semifreddo. Service is good; test it by asking for a table out back near the water.
ESTILO CAMPO
Map Parrilla $$
4312-4546; Av Alicia Moreau de Justo 1840; mains AR$17-46; lunch & dinner
One of the many steakhouses in Puerto Madero, Estilo Campo is as good as any. One difference here is that all the waiters are dressed up in gaucho gear, making it easier to visualize yourself on the dusty pampas. It’s an elegantly rustic atmosphere, though, with typical parrilla and Argentine fare like homemade pasta, seafood, exotic meats like venison and boar and – of course – plenty of beef cuts. The bandiola grillé (grilled pork loin) is especially luscious and tender, while the brochettes (shish kebabs) aren’t too shabby either.
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CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES
Hardly inspiring in terms of cutting-edge cuisine, the Congreso area caters mostly for business with cheap parrillas and quick take-out. You might also come across the occasional Chinese, Korean or Peruvian restaurant hidden away on some side street. The biggest cultural footprint in this area, however, is Buenos Aires’ Little Spain neighborhood (in the blocks around Avs de Mayo and Salta); here you’ll find a few good Spanish and Basque eateries serving traditional food.
EL HISPANO
Map Spanish $$
4382-7534; Salta 20; mains AR$18-45; lunch & dinner
Tired of the same old steak? Head to BA’s Little Spain neighborhood in Congreso, where this classy and atmospheric 50-year-old Spanish restaurant offers choices from octopus cazuela (stew) to frogs Provençal to snails a la Andaluza…or even just paella. Unsurprisingly, it’s really into seafood, including grilled trout, mussels, oysters and fried calamari. Don’t forget desserts like natilla (custard) and arroz con leche (rice pudding) to round off your special non-steak meal (though it’s got them on the menu as well).
CHIQUILÍN
Map Argentine $$
4373-5163; Sarmiento 1599; mains AR$17-35; lunch & dinner
A local mainstay for 80 years, Chiquilín is an excellent place to safely take, say, your parents. It’s a large, comfortable restaurant with a cozy and classic atmosphere (including hanging hams) that adds a bit of personality. Dressed-up staff are efficient, which is great because this place can bustle – even at 1am on a Saturday night. The best food here is the parrilla and pasta, though specials like paella on Monday and puchero (a meat-and-vegetable stew) on Wednesday offer welcome detours from the regular menu.
PIPPO
Map Argentine $
4374-0762; Montevideo 341; mains AR$10-18; lunch & dinner
Dishing up large servings of parrilla and pasta for small prices, Pippo is still going strong after 70 years. The atmosphere is wonderfully casual, the service is efficient and the tablecloths are made of paper. This is a great spot to come for a cheap yet comfortable meal without any pretensions. There’s also another Pippo ( 4375-5887; Paraná 356) on the other side of the same block that does takeout. Open late.
CERVANTES II
Map Argentine $
4372-5227; Juan D Perón 1883; mains AR$10-17; lunch & dinner
A great, affordable choice in this area is Cervantes II, a popular, modern and unpretentious spot with a touch of old-world atmosphere. It’s filled mostly with locals ordering an agua de sifón (soda water) to go along with their bife de chorizo or ravioles con tuco (ravioli with sauce). Short orders like milanesas (breaded steaks), omelets and fish dishes are also available. Portions are large and the service is efficient.
ROCKET BAR & BISTRO
Map International $
4383-3833; Av Rivadavia 1285; mains AR$10-16; lunch Mon-Fri
A welcome addition to the generally stodgy restaurant scene in Congreso, Rocket was started by a British expat with a wide range of tastes. Things like tandoori chicken, Thai green curry, seafood pie and quiches are available for consumption. However, it’s the large range of deli-like sandwiches – roast beef, BLT and shrimp with avocado – that might do a better job attracting homesick palates. Creative salads and desserts are also on tap, and the atmosphere is humble.
PIZZERÍA GÜERRÍN
Map Pizza $
4371-8141; Av Corrientes 1368; slices AR$3.50; 11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat
A quick pit-stop for those drawn to the theaters and cinemas on Av Corrientes is this cheap but classic old pizza joint. Just point at a pre-baked slice behind the glass counter and eat standing up with the rest of the crowd. To be more civilized, sit down and order one freshly baked – this way you can also choose from a greater variety of toppings for your pizza. Empanadas and plenty of desserts are also available.
LICKING YOUR WAY THROUGH BA
- Dylan (Map; 0810-3333-9526, Péru 1086, San Telmo)
- Freddo (Map; 0810-33-FREDDO; Av Santa Fe 1600, Retiro) Many branches; see www.freddo.com.ar.
- Heladería Cadore (Map; 4374-3688, Av Corrientes 1695, Congreso)
- Persicco (Map; 0810-333-7377, Salguero 2591, Palermo) Also at Migueletes 886, Las Cañitas (Map) and Vuelta de Obligado 2092, Belgrano (Map).
- Una Altra Volta (Map; 4805-1818, Av del Libertador 3060, Palermo) Also at the corner of Av Quintana and Ayacucho, Recoleta (Map) and Av Santa Fe 1826, Barrio Norte (Map).
- Vía Flaminia (Map; 4342-7737, Florida 121, Microcentro)
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SAN TELMO
The heart of San Telmo, Plaza Dorrego is surrounded by several café-restaurants that pop open their umbrellas from Monday to Saturday. On Sunday, however, the plaza (and a few surrounding streets) is taken over by vendors and tourists jamming the ever-popular antiques market. San Telmo has traditionally supported a large cluster of parrillas, but as the neighborhood inexorably gentrifies more innovative, upscale and pricier restaurants are moving in, along with other nightspots like bars.
DEFENSA AL SUR
Map International $$$
4300-8017; Defensa 1338; mains AR$30-40; lunch Sun, dinner Tue-Sun
Romantic couples take note – this small, upscale bistro is attractively lit and has a peaceful, fancy atmosphere especially good for dates. The menu isn’t extensive, but choices are good – try the portabella lasagna, grilled quail or Patagonian lamb. While portions are small, they’re well prepared, beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. Don’t miss the amazing desserts, either – the chocolate mousse is especially sublime.
LA VINERIA DE GUALTERIO BOLÍVAR
Map International $$$
4361-4709; Bolívar 865; tasting dishes from AR$10; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
Shaking up San Telmo’s taste buds is this gourmet restaurant with extraordinary cuisine. Overseen by chef Alejandro Digilio, who has worked in the kitchen at Spain’s El Bulli (considered by some to be the world’s best restaurant), the dishes here are tasting-size only – making it easy to order many things. Try the signature carretilla, a rich, slow-cooked jawbone muscle, or the amazing potato cake with raw egg inside. Desserts are to die for – the chocolate mousse has the texture of butter. Expect great service and an excellent wine list as well.
CAFÉ SAN JUAN
Map International $$
4300-1112; Av San Juan 450; mains AR$25-38; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
Having studied in Milan, Paris and Barcelona, chef Leandro Cristóbal now runs the kitchen at this renowned San Telmo bistro. Start with fabulous tapas – accented with cheese from an 85-year-old family business – then delve into the divine crushed almond–breaded shrimp, mushrooms from northern Argentina and an amazing pork bandiola (deliciously tender after nine hours’ roasting). Most of the seafood is flown in daily from Patagonia, and the service is commendable. Reserve for dinner.
CASAL DE CATALUNYA
Map Spanish $$
4361-0191; Chacabuco 863; mains AR$24-55; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat
Located in BA’s Catalan cultural center – a beautiful 1886 building that’s hard to ignore – is this excellent Catalan restaurant. Unsurprisingly big on seafood, its specialties run from a delicious garlic shrimp to fresh mussels and clams in tomato sauce to fish of the day with aioli (a garlic and olive oil sauce). Other typical Spanish dishes include jamón serrano (prosciutto-like ham), seafood paella and suckling pig. If you know what’s good for you, don’t miss the luscious crema Catalana for dessert.
COMEDOR NIKKAI
Map Asian $$
4300-5848; Av Independencia 732; mains AR$20-60; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat
Housed in the Asociación Japonesa building, this restaurant has some of BA’s most authentic Japanese food, and the locals know it – come early if you don’t want to wait. All your favorites are here, including tempura, teriyaki, ramen or udon noodles and – of course – lots of sushi and sashimi choices. Imported sake and Asahi beer are available (at least, when the shipments come through).
TERRITORIO
Map International $$
4300-9756; cnr Estados Unidos & Bolívar; mains AR$16-27; lunch & dinner
Focusing on tablas and picadas (meat/cheese plates and appetizers) is this small and somewhat bohemian corner eatery. There are also sandwiches, the more interesting of which highlight more exotic meats like venison, trout, lamb and wild boar, served along with goat cheese and homemade bread. A few ‘regular’ dishes are also available, but they serve wine and not soft drinks – which they claim (and we believe) don’t pair up well with their offerings.
DESNIVEL
Map Parrilla $$
4300-9081; Defensa 855; mains AR$16-26; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun, dinner Mon
This famous parrilla joint usually packs in both locals and tourists, serving them treats like chorizo sandwiches and bife de lomo (tenderloin steak). Add salad and a double espresso, and you can walk away happy and buzzing for around AR$10 to $AR30. The sizzling grill out front is torturous while you wait for a table – get here early, especially on weekends. Expect waiters to be either surly or charming.
BAR PLAZA DORREGO
Map Argentine $$
4361-0141; Defensa 1098; mains AR$15-30; 8am-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat
You can’t beat the atmosphere at this traditional joint; sip your café cortado (coffee with milk) or submarino (hot milk with chocolate) by a picture window and watch the world pass by. Meanwhile, traditionally suited waiters, piped-in tango music, antique bottles and scribbled graffiti on walls and counters might take you back in time – at least until your hamburger lands on the table. (More typically Argentine fare is also available.) When it’s not too busy they’ll set out tables on the sidewalk – another experience in itself.
ORIGEN
Map International $$
4362-7979; Humberto Primo 599; mains AR$14-28; 8:30am-8pm Mon & Tue, to 1am Wed-Sun
Modern but not pretentious, this stylish corner bistro is a welcome addition to the burgeoning San Telmo restaurant scene. The creative menu features wide-ranging offerings from green-curry stir-fry and chicken satay to whole-wheat pizza, homemade soups and vegetarian options. There’s also afternoon tea service with freshly baked pastries and gourmet teas. Service is friendly and the sidewalk tables are especially welcoming on a warm day.
BAR EL FEDERAL
Map Argentine $$
4300-4313; cnr Perú & Carlos Calvo; mains AR$10-27; 8am-2am
Dating from 1864, this historic bar has a classic atmosphere accented with original wood and tile details; check out the amazing counter area. The specialties here are sandwiches (especially turkey breast) and picadas (shared appetizer plates), but there are also lots of pastas, salads and desserts. The menu is over 25 pages, after all, so there’s something for everyone. The sidewalk tables are perfect perches for watching San Telmo go by.
PARRILLA 1880
Map Parrilla $$
4307-2746; Defensa 1665; mains AR$10-22; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
For a good, solid parrilla experience away from the more touristy sections of San Telmo, make your way south to this popular joint; it’s right across from Parque Lezama. The atmosphere is thick with history and locals enjoying all the juicy cuts of meat coming off of the open grill in front – try the ojo de bife (rib eye) or pechito de cerdo (pork ribs). The half portion of bife de chorizo is plenty big for one person, and other dishes like pastas, omelets and salads are also available.
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LA BOCA
Though limited to just a handful of streets, the tourist area of La Boca does contain a number of traditional and colorful Argentine eateries – mostly offering the same old parrilla and pastas. As long as you don’t expect fine cuisine you shouldn’t be disappointed. Just remember not to wander off on an aprés-lunch stroll down unbeaten tourist paths, looking rich and lost, or you run the risk of meeting local bullies who want your lunch money.
IL MATTERELLO
Map Mediterranean $$
4307-0529; Martín Rodríguez 517; mains AR$18-32; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun
The plain atmosphere at this Genovese trattoria is nothing to write home about, but the food more than makes up for it. You can’t go wrong with the lasagne bolognese, the tagliatelle alla rucola (tagliatelle with arugula) or the strascinati (tiny ‘ear’-like pasta domes) with amatriciana (bacon and red pepper) sauce. For a special treat, however, try the tortelli verde (small pasta pillows stuffed with cheese and garlic). For dessert there’s a great tiramisú and seasonal crostate (cream-filled pastry). All in all, a memorable meal.
EL OBRERO
Map Parrilla $$
4362-9912; Agustín R Caffarena 64; mains AR$16-30; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
If there were ever a restaurant you’d go to for ambience and history, this would be the one. The family here has been running this place for over 70 years, and on display with unfinished bottles of wine are plenty of photos attesting to their famous diners, including Bono, Robert Duvall and various Argentine celebrities. The food won’t raise your eyebrows (it’s traditional parrilla), but the atmosphere makes it taste so much better. Take a taxi here and back.
EL SAMOVAR DE RASPUTIN
Map Argentine $
4302-3190; Del Valle Iberlucea 1232; mains AR$10-18; 10am-8pm Tue-Fri & Sun, dinner Sat
Soak up a prime La Boca setting at this atmospheric old joint. On warm summer days the street-side seating is best, with great tourist-watching opportunities, plus outdoor tango dancing nearby. The food is nothing new – basic pasta, sandwiches, milanesas (breaded cutlets) and parrilla– but there’s good live rock and blues after midnight (Click here).
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RETIRO
Just north of the Microcentro, posh Retiro is not generally known for its fine eating. Restaurants here also tend to cater to the business crowds, offering good-value midday specials and food to go – so all you have to do is find yourself a nice, grassy spot or shady bench in nearby Plaza San Martín where you can enjoy your impromptu picnic. Don’t ignore the area’s bars and cafés, which also serve meals and are sometimes more casual and interesting than traditional restaurants, and of course also offer a wider range of drinking options.
LE SUD
Map European $$$
4131-0131; Arroyo 849; mains AR$43-60; breakfast, lunch & dinner
For a taste of Europe, dress up in your best threads and head on over to Le Sud, one of BA’s top restaurants, elegantly ensconced in the posh Sofitel hotel. Award-winning chef Thierry Pszonda whips out simple yet authentic French fusion cuisine sprinkled with fresh herbs, spices and oils straight from the Mediterranean. Order the stewed rabbit or lemon ravioli and you’ll be in Provence before it’s time for dessert.
GRAN BAR DANZÓN
Map International $$
4811-1108; Libertad 1161; mains AR$25-60; dinner
It’s hard to be hipper than this popular lounge/bar/restaurant. A very cool-looking wine conservation system makes it possible to order many wines by the glass, or you can browse the extensive list by the bottle. The menu is graced with well-presented dishes like duck confit with Taleggio cheese, rabbit ravioli and risotto with king crab. Ever-so-trendy sushi is also on tap, but a bit off from authenticity. This is beautiful food for beautiful people, so dress well and come early if you want a table.
FILO
Map Mediterranean $$
4311-0312; San Martín 975; mains AR$22-40; noon-2am
It’s hard to decide what’s best at this trendy and very artistically decorated restaurant, especially when you look at the dizzying menu. At least your choice is likely to be excellent, as it does a great job cooking up the 20 varieties of pizza and 15 kinds of salad (try the smoked salmon). Other tasty choices include panini (Italian-style sandwiches), pasta and meats, along with a whirlwind of desserts.
EMPIRE BAR
Map Asian $$
4312-5706; Tres Sargentos 427; mains AR$21-45; lunch & dinner
This upscale, gay-friendly spot is good for its tasty Thai cuisine, though the spice factor is toned down for Argentine taste buds. Owner Kevin Rodriguez, a former banker from New Jersey, oversees the kitchen, which puts out crispy wrapped prawns, paneng pork in red curry and tom ka gai (chicken and coconut milk soup). For dessert, try the banana fritters and – if it’s in season – mango with sweet rice. You can also choose from nearly 100 vodkas, the largest selection in BA.
LIGURE
Map Spanish $$
4394-8226; Juncal 855; mains AR$15-40; lunch & dinner
This classic, old-school restaurant in upscale Retiro is something of a hidden gem. It’s popular with the older elite so don’t expect any modern hipness; instead, come to savor traditional Spanish delicacies like the seafood paella, ranas a la provencal (frogs’ legs in garlic) and pulpo a la gallega (Galician octopus). Steak lovers can select their lomo (tenderloins) in six kinds of sauces, while vegetarians can opt for the homemade pasta.
LA ESQUINA DE LAS FLORES
Map Vegetarian $
4811-4729; Córdoba 1587; mains AR$8-12; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat
One of BA’s most enduring vegetarian alternatives, this modern restaurant also has a small health food store on the ground floor that sells soy flour, whole-wheat breads and organic mate (tea), among other things. There’s a small fast-food section, but if you prefer more relaxed surroundings, go upstairs and choose from the tasty and nutritious menu. There’s even a dish for macrobiotics. There’s another branch at Gurruchaga 1630 in Palermo (Map), where free workshops on healthy cooking are occasionally available.
LOTOS
Map Vegetarian $
4814-4552; Av Córdoba 1577; mains AR$5-10; 11:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat
Right next door to La Esquina de las Flores (left) is this equally renowned vegetarian spot. It’s cafeteria-style, so just point at whatever looks good. Choices include delicious, healthy soups, extensive salad ingredients and filling main dishes. In the basement is a good health food store ( 8:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat), where dry noodles, fresh-baked breads, organic tea, whole grains, herbal remedies and fresh tofu await your inspection.
EL CUARTITO
Map Pizza $
4816-1758; Talcahuano 937; slices AR$2.50-3.50; noon-2am
In a hurry? Think fast, order and pay for your piece of pie, then munch at the counters standing up. Not only is it cheaper and faster this way, but you can chat up the chap next to you and enjoy the old sports posters without turning around. You can’t get more local or traditional, and while it’s mostly full of businessmen and male waiters, the gals are equally welcome. Sit down for more menu choices.
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RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
Recoleta is the playground for the wealthy elite, full of beautiful apartment buildings, upscale boutiques and the occasional Baroque mansion. As you can imagine, the restaurants here aren’t cheap, but if you want to rub shoulders with the upper classes then this is the place to be.
Practically everyone visits Recoleta’s cemetery, so the two-block strip of touristy restaurants, bars and cafés lining nearby RM Ortiz is very convenient. Food here tends toward the overpriced and unexceptional, but many restaurants have outdoor terraces that are choice hangout spots on warm days. And the people-watching here is excellent, especially on weekends when the nearby hippie market is in full swing.
Some exceptionally good-value choices are listed below.
MUNICH RECOLETA
Map Argentine $$
4804-3981; RM Ortiz 1871; mains AR$18-27; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon
This traditional old place hasn’t changed much since Jorge Luis Borges was a regular and enjoying its great food; try the brochettes, grilled salmon or nine kinds of ravioli. Service is exceptional and the white window curtains make this a semi-private affair – two reasons you might find more porteños than tourists eating here, unlike at the flashier, more open restaurants nearby. Just make sure you can stomach the trophy animal heads looking down at you from the wall.
GRANT’S
Map All-You-Can-Eat $$
4801-9099; Av General Las Heras 1925; lunch AR$17-26, dinner AR$23-26; lunch & dinner
This tenedor libre is run by efficient Chinese folks, just like most others in town. Grant’s is one of the best, however – the buffet tables overflow with a fantastic assortment of foods too numerous to mention. There are also plenty of parrilla and dessert selections, so you’ll be rolling out of this joint no matter what. The price depends on the meal and day of the week; ordering beverages is mandatory and costs extra.
TEA CONNECTION
Map Café $$
4805-0616; Uriburu 1595; snacks AR$15-19; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 10am-11pm Sun
Tea lovers in BA no longer have to settle for plain black leaves anymore. At this attractive corner café are 30 kinds of tea to choose from, including various kinds of black, red, green and infusion teas. The menu even instructs how long to soak the teabag and the ideal temperature. Sandwiches, salads, vegetable tarts and creative rolls all make good snacks, and breakfast is also served.
EL SANJUANINO
Map Argentine $
4805-2683; Posadas 1515; mains AR$10-12; lunch & dinner
This friendly little place probably has the cheapest food in Recoleta, attracting both penny-pinching locals and thrifty tourists. Sit at one of the 10 tables and order spicy empanadas (each AR$2), tamales or locro (corn and meat stew). The curved brick ceiling adds to the local atmosphere, but you can be like most folks and take your food to go – Recoleta’s lovely parks are just a couple of blocks away.
CUMANÁ
Map Argentine $
4813-9207; Rodríguez Peña 1149; mains AR$9-15; lunch & dinner
If you’ve never tried cazuela, this is the place to lose your virginity. Cumaná specializes in these deliciously homey, stick-to-your-ribs pot stews, which are filled and baked with squash, corn, eggplant, potatoes and/or meats, among other tidbits. Also popular are the pizzas, empanadas, pastas and calzones. But come early, ‘cause the prices here are ridiculously low and the masses all want a part of the action – empty tables are scarce. A good place to try mate (see the boxed text, Click here), too.
PURA VIDA
Map Café $
4806-0017; Uriburu 1489; juice blends AR$6-12, snacks AR$8-14; 11:30-9pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, noon-8pm Sat
A new concept in Buenos Aires is this tiny joint serving up healthy fruit-juice blends and smoothies. Among the many you can try are the Fiji (pineapple, banana, coconut and orange juices), the Piña Koolada (pineapple, strawberries and coconut milk), and the Green Monster (celery, cucumber and apple), especially refreshing. For an extra pick-me-up, add wheatgrass, yogurt, spirulina or bee pollen to your choice. Healthy sandwiches, wraps, salads and soups also available.
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PALERMO
Palermo, particularly Palermo Viejo, is at the heart of innovative cuisine in Buenos Aires. Dozens of fancy restaurants, many of them serving good, creative food, continue to throw open their doors here – it seems like there’s a new one every week. Nearly all of them are slick places with contemporary decor, and while quality is generally high only a few are truly special.
Ethnic cuisines are the idea here; anyone yearning for Japanese, Indian, Vietnamese, Brazilian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Greek or even Norwegian food can satisfy their craving. Just don’t expect true authenticity, especially when it comes to spicy cuisine (Argentines just can’t bear that kind of heat). There are also plenty of modern international restaurants, along with quite a few parrillas as well.
Another sub-neighborhood of Palermo with exceptional eating is Las Cañitas, not far from Palermo Viejo. Traffic jams up here on the weekends, when hordes of diners descend on the few blocks of Av Báez where most of the area’s restaurants and bars are concentrated.
OVIEDO
Map Spanish $$$
4821-3741; Beruti 2602; mains AR$40-65; lunch & dinner
Martin Rabaudino has studied with some of Spain’s most famous chefs to create what is considered by some to be the best restaurant in the city. This is a truly elegant place, with professional service and classy atmosphere. Fish and meat dishes are the specialties; choose from tempting and unpretentious dishes like quail with mushrooms, shrimp risotto and seafood paella. The wine list is excellent and offers selections from France, Spain and Australia. Reserve in advance.
THYMUS
Map International $$$
4772-1936; Lerma 525; mains AR$36-46; dinner Mon-Sat
French-influenced Argentine chef Fernando Mayoral directs the kitchen at this beautiful and elegant restaurant located in an unlikely neighborhood. Only a handful of dishes grace the menu, but everything is well presented and top-notch. Try the excellent Taleggio-cheese crème brÛlée for an appetizer, and follow it with the duck breast in honey reduction and roasted quail with truffle oil. One of BA’s best eateries, with good service. Reserve ahead.
OSAKA
Map Asian/Latin American $$$
4775-6964; Soler 5608; mains AR$35-60; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
Sick of the same old cheap steaks? Then Osaka is your remedy, slicing up some of BA’s most exquisite cold, raw fish – and so much more. Catapulting Peruvian and Japanese cuisines together into a whole new level of creativity, Osaka ponies up sublime fusions that look like works of art and taste out of this world. You’ll have to experience it to believe it, so reserve a week in advance, load up the bank account and clear out those parrilla-worn taste buds.
MOTT
Map International $$$
4833-4306; El Salvador 4685; mains AR$35-45; lunch & dinner
One of Palermo Viejo’s slickest new joints, Mott revels in its huge airy spaces and contemporary lines. It’s attention-grabbing open facade makes it a very popular spot to see and be seen, especially at the gorgeous bar. Chef Maria Lancio whips up exotic selections like rabbit with roasted egg, salmon in pumpkin cream and spinach-mousse sorrentinos – which might sound better than they really are – but with the people and atmosphere around you so beautiful, who cares about your taste buds?
GREEN BAMBOO
Map Asian $$$
4775-7050; Costa Rica 5802; mains AR$35-42; dinner
Take a welcome break from steak and step into this swank Vietnamese restaurant, where just a dozen or so main dishes grace the menu. Dishes are well prepared and supremely tasty; try the grilled shrimp in mushroom broth or duck with ginger and rice wine. There are a few vegetarian options as well, and ask for extra spicy if you like some tingle on your tongue (and tingle it will). Cocktails are especially good here, and the desserts are luscious. Reserve, or you might be sitting at the bar.
MYKONOS
Map Mediterranean $$$
4779-9000; Olleros 1752; mains AR$32-44; dinner Mon-Sat
This Greek restaurant is a peaceful place…until they start breaking plates during their nightly dance shows. Beautiful murals transport you to the Mediterranean, as might the excellent tzatziki (cucumber and yogurt sauce) and spanakopita (spinach pastry). The lamb shish kebabs are also wonderful, but finish them off before you’re whisked away to the dance floor and go swinging out the front door. Not a place to come for serious conversation.
CLUNY
Map International $$$
4831-7176; El Salvador 4618; mains AR$30-47; lunch & dinner
Still one of Palermo Viejo’s best restaurants is the trendy and elegant Cluny, which features a lovely front patio, comfortable white sofas and gorgeous contemporary atmosphere. Chef Lucas Dabrowski whips up delightful, top-notch cuisine – try the squash sorrentinos (large, round raviolis), Patagonian lamb or magret de pato (not for the weak: it’s the breast of foie gras–producing ducks). A short but well-chosen wine list adds to your pleasure, as will the attentive service.
LIMBO
pp92–3 Argentine $$$
4831-4040; Armenia 1820; mains AR$30-45; lunch & dinner
Sitting on the rooftop terrace here on a hot day, looking over Plaza Palermo Viejo, you might just forgive Limbo for its average pasta and so-so service. Try choosing the rack of lamb or one of the fancy salads instead, and hope for the best. For more public exposure choose a seat near the open front facade, which offers a prime view of bustling street life and lets everyone see you hanging with the hip crowd.
BAR URIARTE
Map International $$$
4834-6004; Uriarte 1572; mains AR$30-40; lunch & dinner
Serving some of Palermo Viejo’s best food is this trendy and good-looking eatery, accented with low lounges, a long bar and a slick open kitchen. While the noise levels are too loud for a romantic night out, the food makes up for it – sample the rabbit risotto, mojellas al grille (grilled sweetbreads) or noquis de ricotta (small, potato-based dumplings). There’s also gourmet pizza baked up in an adobe oven. And while the mains might not fill you to the brim, the luscious desserts certainly will – the chocolate mousse with raspberries is unforgettable. Reserve ahead.
OLSEN
Map European $$$
4776-7677; Gorriti 5870; mains AR$30-40; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, 10:30am-8pm Sun
Olsen is famous for its Sunday brunch, but chef Germán Martitegui cooks up other meals with equal aplomb. Arrive for dinner and you might order venison ravioli with cherry compote or grilled tuna in yogurt dressing. Lunches are prix fixe and excellent as well, letting you enjoy the peaceful garden in front – though the airy inside dining room is gorgeously Scandinavian. It’s also close to the popular bar, where over 50 kinds of vodka are assiduously kept at 18°C below zero. Reserve ahead.
SUDESTADA
Map Asian $$$
4776-3777; Guatemala 5602; mains AR$30-40; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
Sudestada’s well-earned reputation comes from its spicy and well-prepared curries, tender stir-fries and delicious vegetarian and noodle dishes, all inspired by the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore. The grilled rabbit is fantastic, but if ordering something spicy keep in mind it’s really spicy. Desserts are huge, and alcoholic drinks come with exotic Asian flavor – or sip an equally intoxicating lychee licuado (milkshake). Reservations are necessary, even for lunch.
EL ÚLTIMO BESO
Map International $$$
4832-7711; Nicaragua 4880; mains AR$30-36; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
Walking into this sweet eatery, located in an old romantic house, is like walking into a feminine boutique. The menu is small and covers a few European-inspired dishes, which are a bit overpriced but passable. As is often the case in Palermo, you’re here mainly for the atmosphere – the small spaces, covered terrace and little courtyard patio are hard to resist when you just want a break from that tiring shopping schedule.
BANGALORE
Map Indian $$$
4779-2621; Humboldt 1416; mains AR$28-46; dinner
Nestled on the mezzanine above a trendy and atmospheric English-style pub, this excellent little Indian restaurant focuses on well-prepared and delicious dishes like tandoori leg of lamb, pumpkin curry and murg saag (spiced chicken with spinach). The chefs are Basque, English and Argentine, bringing an interesting background to the mix. Reserve ahead.
FREUD & FAHLER
Map International $$$
4833-2153; Gurruchaga 1750; mains AR$28-42; dinner
One of the first eateries in the area, this old milk depot is now a long-standing corner restaurant held together by Greek-Croatian chef Pablo Lykan, whose family have always considered food an important part of their lives. From the eclectic ambience to the poetic menu, Freud & Fahler offers creative fusions of Asian-Latino-European-influenced dishes with an Argentine twist. For deeper analysis have a chat with Pablo, who’s likely to greet you on your way in or out.
BELLA ITALIA
Map Mediterranean $$
4802-4253; República Árabe Siria 3285; mains AR$27-42; dinner Mon-Sat
Located among Palermo Chico’s residential apartments is this tasty little Italian gem. Start with a cheese plate or olive ‘tasting’, then sink your teeth into the tagliolini with squid and scallops or the lemon ravioli with salmon. Treats like braised rabbit and grappa also line the menu. Bella Italia also has a café (República Árabe Siria 3330) just up the street on the next block, which serves similar fare and has cheaper prices.
VOULEZBAR
Map International $$
4802-4817; Cerviño 3802; mains AR$27-32; breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
It’s worth the trek out to Palermo Chico to have a sit at this popular corner café – just remember to reserve ahead. The big deal here is fresh, creative cuisine, which includes things like salmon with mango salsa and shrimp risotto. For lighter, less expensive fare, come for lunch – the baby calamari, grilled squash and lox salads are awe-inspiring, or try a burger or even the tasty ceviche (how rare is this in BA?). Pizza, tarts and gourmet sandwiches round out the menu.
GUIDO’S BAR
Map Mediterranean $$
4802-2391; República de la India 2843; mains AR$25-40; lunch & dinner Sun-Fri
Looking very much out of place amongst the tall, fancy apartment buildings of Palermo Chico, this traditional eatery adds a splash of history and color to the neighborhood. It’s an Italian joint, so expect mostly pasta, pizza and risotto on the menu – though there are also a few sandwiches, omelets and soups. If the plethora of funky posters on the walls gives you visual overload, try to snag a sidewalk table and take in the peaceful greenery of the zoo across the street.
KATMANDU
Map Indian $$
4963-1122; Av Córdoba 3547; mains AR$25-40; dinner Mon-Sat
This long-running Indian restaurant remains popular for its wonderfully tasty food, which is fairly authentic for BA. Typical dishes like biryanis (Indian rice dish) and vegetable curries are available; for something special, try the tandoori gosht – delicious lamb marinated in milk and saffron. Brits will love the chicken tikka masala, while the garlic naan is lovely. If you want any heat, ask for it really spicy, and order a sweet lassi to take away any burn.
MIRANDA
Map Parrilla $$
4771-4255; Costa Rica 5602; mains AR$25-35; lunch & dinner
Very popular for its reasonably priced steaks, Miranda sits nice and pretty on a bustling street corner. It’s a fashionable, modern steakhouse with concrete walls, high ceilings and rustic wooden furniture, but food is the main attraction here. The meat is good quality and grilled to perfection, and if you score a sidewalk table on a warm day, life for a carnivore just doesn’t get much better.
MEATLESS IN BUENOS AIRES
La Esquina de las Flores, Lotos and Arte Sano have small but good health food shops, or you can try Dietética Viamonte (Map; 4322-4364; Viamonte 859; 8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat), which has an extensive selection of vegetarian and health foods in the city center, including bulk grains, whole wheat pasta, dried fruit, nuts and bakery goods, as well as organic lotions.
AFUEGO
Map Parrilla $$
4774-0625; Av Cabildo 545; all-you-can-eat AR$24-32; lunch & dinner
Oddly located inside a Coto supermarket is this slightly fancy restaurant serving all-you-can-stuff meals. Complimentary French fries hit your table after you sit down, and the included salad and appetizer bar is pretty good as well. Best of all, however, is the Brazilian churrasquería-style highlight – servers come around with huge slabs of meat, slicing a portion off right at your table. Service can be iffy, but for the price this is a bargain.
ANASTASIA
Map Parrilla $$
4802-8640; cnr Bulnes & Cabello; mains AR$22-33; lunch & dinner
Reservations here are a good idea – this popular parrilla fills up early. The pastas caseras (homemade pastas) are mighty fine – try the raviolis – but most folks come here for the succulent grilled meats, roasted to perfection. Brick walls and a dim atmosphere exude richness and sophistication, while the grilled pork ribs and house lomo (tenderloin) are divine. Order mate (see the boxed text, Click here) to help wash it all down.
NOVECENTO
Map Mediterranean $$
4778-1900; Av Báez 199; mains AR$20-41; breakfast, lunch & dinner
Full breakfasts (a rarity in BA) are served at this elegant corner restaurant, but the selection is limited to eggs benedict, salmon bagels and – if you’re lucky – waffles or chorizo-filled tortillas. Dinner offers fancier options like fried calamari, penne with wild mushrooms or grilled trout over risotto. The fine atmosphere is accented with pristine white tablecloths, soft music and romantic candlelight, and there’s a good selection of dessert wines and after-dinner liqueurs to stretch out the evening.
MORELIA
Map Pizza $$
4772-0329; Av Báez 260; pizzas AR$20-39; lunch & dinner
Choose from 26 kinds of excellent pizza here – the Napolitana (with tomatoes and garlic) is wonderfully simple, though the Montecattini (prosciutto and arugula) can’t be beat. Ask for it a la parrilla and it’ll arrive thin and crisp. For dessert, the frambuesas (raspberries) with ice cream are a piece of heaven and better than the chocolate mousse. There’s an enclosed patio in front that opens when the sun shines. Also at Humboldt 2005 in Palermo Hollywood.
ARTEMESIA
Map Vegetarian $$
4863-4242; José Antonio Cabrera 3877; mains AR$20-32; dinner Tue-Sat
Serving mostly vegetarian fare is this slightly fancy (but in an organic way) restaurant in a less touristy part of Palermo. Tasty homemade bread with a squash spread is automatically brought to your table; follow it up with the grilled pear–and–goat cheese bruschetta. Main courses are flavorful and creative – sample the polenta lasagna, salmon ravioli (without the pasta) or veggies over green pepper focaccia. There are always a few selections for fish lovers, and the sweet ginger lemonade is worth a pitcher.
BIO
Map Vegetarian $$
4774-3880; Humboldt 2199; mains AR$20-26; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
The supremely health-conscious should make a beeline for this casual corner joint, which specializes in healthy, organic and vegetarian fare. Feed your body and soul with quinoa risotto, mushroom stir-fries and Mediterranean couscous with dried tomatoes. Be sure to order a delicious fresh juice blend, whipped up on the spot. Daily specials are available; reserve on weekends.
OUI OUI
Map International $$
4778-9614; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$20-23; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun
Cute as a bug’s ear and just as small, this French-style café holds only a handful of tables; the menu is laid out on a chalkboard on the wall. Creative salads and gourmet sandwiches are the star attraction, while the back counter holds a row of luscious, tempting pastries. On weekends, brunching hordes pack up the place – get here early if you want a seat.
VERDELLAMA
Map Vegetarian $$
4554-7467; J Newberry 3623; mains AR$19-28; 10am-7pm Mon-Wed, till midnight Thu & Fri, till 5:30pm Sat
Some might find it hard to believe that steak-obsessed Buenos Aires has produced its first vegetarian, organic and raw food restaurant, but it was just a matter of time. Well-prepared ‘spaghetti’ (shredded zucchini), sliced vegetable salads and a beet soup with almond milk are sound and tasty choices, while the excellent licuados (fruit shakes) can be amended with spirulina or a wheatgrass shot. The desserts are surprisingly good as well. Except for chapatti bread, nothing served here has been cooked over 40°C.
LAS CORTADERAS
Map Argentine $$
4774-4709; Av Báez 444; mains AR$17-28; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat
Take a breather from the overcrowded heart of Las Cañitas’ restaurant scene and head a couple of blocks north to this modern, casual and family-friendly spot. The menu won’t pop your creative senses, but instead you’ll get large portions of good pasta and meat dishes – try the crepes de ricotta, vegetarian lasagna or Patagonian lamb. Lots of salads are available, and a whole range of pastries tempt you in front. It serves afternoon tea as well.
LA LECHUZA
Map Parrilla $$
4773-2781; Uriarte 1980; mains AR$16-20; lunch Wed-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat
A world away from its trendy Palermo Viejo neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from overpriced, over-hip restaurants. A gamut of funky art adorns the walls, from amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’) to photos of Carlos Gardel and cheap cabaret posters. Food is good, with solid parrilla – the seso (brain)–ball appetizers aren’t half bad – but be sure to order soda in siphon bottles for the full old-time experience. A mostly male hangout, but women are perfectly welcome, also.
LELÉ DE TROYA
Map International $$
4832-2726; Costa Rica 4901; mains AR$14-36; lunch & dinner
The extensive menu covers a little bit of everything, from sandwiches and meat dishes to pasta, pizza and risotto – but you’re more likely to end up here for the colorful atmosphere. Each room is painted a different color, and the furniture follows suit – choose the sultry red room if you’re on a romantic date. At the very top is a scary staircase leading to the rooftop terrace, the place to be on warm days.
KRISHNA
Map Vegetarian Indian $$
4833-4618; Malabia 1833; mains AR$14-17; lunch & dinner Wed-Sun, lunch Tue
Colorful, themed decor and low tables offer a vegetarian Indian food experience with a large dollop of hippyness. They’re multireligious at this casual, eccentric eatery – you’re likely to see Ganesh mixing it up with Jesus, a Star of David and even Jimi Hendrix. Order the thali (side dishes with an Indian flat bread), koftas (balls of ground vegetables) or stuffed soya milanesa, and there’s chai, mango lassi or alcohol-free beer to help wash it all down.
NATURAL DELI
Map Café $$
4777-0372; Gorostaiga 1776; mains AR$14-17; 8am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8:30pm Sun
A rarity in BA is this modern, organic deli offering delicious natural foods. Choose from the chicken breast and avocado sandwich, the tuna and mango wrap or marinated portabella mushrooms in balsamic vinegar. Salads are wonderfully fresh and sprinkled with a variety of creative ingredients, or go for a slice of vegetarian tart. You can add echinacea and ginseng to their healthy juices and licuados (fruit shake), and there’s even a small health food store for take-home treats. A yoga studio is upstairs.
SARKIS
Map Middle Eastern $$
4772-4911; Thames 1101; mains AR$10-24; lunch & dinner
It’s not much to look at, but there’s a good reason this long-standing Middle Eastern restaurant is still around – the food is simply awesome. For appetizers, don’t miss the baquerones (marinated sardines), keppe crudo (raw meat) or parras rellenas (stuffed grape leaves) – all are delicious. Follow up with lamb in yogurt sauce for something special, and if you’re here for dinner you can have a fortune teller read your coffee grounds. Service is great.
EL 22 PARRILLA
Map Parrilla $$
4833-7876; Gorriti 5299; mains AR$10-23; lunch & dinner
Unlike most other parts of the city, cheap, unpretentious parrilla isn’t that easy to find in Palermo. This casual, family-style joint is an exception, and gets crowded because of it. Portions are huge, another reason for its popularity; the milanesa is actually two large cutlets, and you’d better order the half-portions of beef unless you really feel like chowing down. The lunch menu is an even better deal, especially if you score a sidewalk table. It has other branches around Palermo.
LAS CHOLAS
Map Argentine $
4899-0094; Arce 306; mains AR$10-20; lunch & dinner
Las Cholas has found the golden rule of many successful restaurants: quality food, trendy design and bargain prices. This always-full, two-story corner eatery attracts the young and hip, and feeds them traditional Argentine foods like locro and cazuelas (meat and veggie stews). The parrilla is also excellent, and the desserts can be exquisite – sample the white chocolate mousse. Expect a wait, rickety chairs and some slow service from the young, pretty waitstaff.
MARK’S DELI & COFFEEHOUSE
Map Café $
4832-6244; El Salvador 4701; mains AR$10-17; 8:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-9pm Sun
If you’re hankering for a pastrami sandwich, check out the huge chalkboard menu at this insanely popular café/deli. American-style sandwiches, fresh salads and tasty soups are beautiful and well prepared, and the luscious pastry case is hard to resist. On warm days the patio or sidewalk tables are like gold, while the modern interior is perfectly casual and hip. For an extra buzz, order an iced coffee or double mocha.
PROVIDENCIA
Map International $
4772-8507; JA Cabrera 5995; mains AR$10-17; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat
Casually funky, with blotchy walls and an unfinished look, Providencia is refreshingly grungy in that hippie-cool sorta way. What’s even better is the food – fresh, healthy, supremely tasty and wonderfully affordable. There aren’t many choices on the artsy menu, but what’s there really counts – try the huge veggie tortilla covered with rice, beets, potatoes and a goat-cheese salad. The homemade bread is awesome, as is the pitcher of (not too) sweet lemonade.
ARTE SANO
Map Vegetarian $
4963-1513; Lucio N Mansilla 2740; mains AR$8-15; 8am-10pm Mon-Sat
This small, bright and pleasant health-food eatery cooks up excellent dishes, such as a zucchini, eggplant and tomato tart, soy burgers and veggie stir-fry. Desserts are good for the body, like the yogurt with granola or fruit salad. The tiny bakery attached sells things like brown rice, powdered ginger and whole-wheat breads. Also on offer are yoga, tai chi and dance classes, along with natural food workshops (for more info, see www.artesano-naturista.com.ar).
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BELGRANO
Unlike its neighbor Palermo, Belgrano tends more towards traditional Argentine fare than innovative cuisine. There are a few notable restaurants to try if you happen to make it up here, however, and if you like Chinese food, Buenos Aires’ tiny Chinatown is worth checking out. Just remember that many places (not just restaurants) here are closed on Monday.
SUCRE
Map International $$$
4782-9082; Sucre 676; mains AR$35-44; lunch & dinner
Sucre’s ultra-elegant ambience features that modern look of high ceilings, wood floors, exposed pipes, metal ramparts and a gleaming open kitchen. The excellent, finely presented cuisine comes from a creative, international menu that changes every few months, but expect morsels like ginger-glazed salmon or grilled pork shoulder in lemon sauce. Check out the central bunker: a temperature-controlled, bomb-proof bodega.
BUDDHA BAR
Map Asian $$$
4706-2382; Arribeños 2288; mains AR$30-45; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun
The fanciest restaurant in Belgrano’s Chinatown is this pretty spot, which cooks up creative Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Order the shrimp in coconut milk, mixed-mushroom-and-veggie stir-fry or beef curry with tomatoes. The dining area is a slick, red lounge with moody music, and for extra quirkiness there’s an Asian art gallery ( 1-7pm) upstairs and a bonsai ‘deck’ garden. Also open in the afternoon for tea service.
COTIGO PERU
Map Latin American $$
4780-3960; Echeverría 1627; mains AR$15-24; lunch & dinner
The modern yet humble dining hall isn’t much to look at, but you’re not here for the atmosphere anyway. This institution of Peruvian cuisine has been around for years, serving up treats like garlic chicken, seafood with rice and – most notably – tasty ceviche. Don’t walk away without ordering that most traditional of Peruvian drinks, the Pisco Sour. Good, friendly service.
PALITOS
Map Asian $$
4786-8566; Arribeños 2243; mains AR$14-30; lunch Tue-Sat, dinner nightly
As the saying goes, ‘the worse the decor, the better the food’ – and it’s spot on at this Taiwanese restaurant in Belgrano’s Chinatown. Sift through the large menu and zoom in on the pollo a los tres aromas (garlic, ginger and basil chicken), the beef noodle soup, the fried noodles or any sweet-and-sour dish. All are as delicious as any you’d get in BA – just be prepared for Palitos’ famously lackadaisical service. Vegetarians can try nearby Siempre Verde (Map; Arribeños 2127).
CONFITERÍA ZURICH
Map Café $$
4784-9808; Echeverría 2200; mains AR$14-27; breakfast, lunch & dinner
Perfect for a midday break, this classic café offers suited waiters, professional service and sidewalk tables that scream for attention on a warm summer day. If you’re peckish there are salads and sandwiches, or just nibble on some dainty croissants while you watch the world go by at the plaza across the way. Things are especially exciting when the weekend feria (street fair) is in full swing.
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VILLA CRESPO, ONCE, CABALLITO & BOEDO
These neighborhoods have yet to be discovered by the tourist masses, but things are changing. Rents in Palermo Viejo are rising quickly, driving some new businesses to nearby Villa Crespo. Meanwhile, Boedo has a few traditional places that are just starting to be visited by foreigners looking for something different. And Once is a good place to hunt for ethnic foods with Jewish, Peruvian or Korean flavors.
BI WON
Map Asian $$
4372-1146; Junín 548; mains AR$25-45; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat
Go for the bulgogi (grill the meat yourself at the table), bibimbap (rice bowl with meat, veggies, egg and hot sauce – mix it all up) or kim chee chigue (kimchi soup with pork – for adventurous, spice-loving tongues only!). Your Korean favorites are all here, including those little dishes of pickled salty morsels automatically brought to your table – delicious! And don’t forget to say kamsamnida (thank you) to your server at the end.
PAN Y ARTE
Map Argentine $$
4957-6702; Av Boedo 880; mains AR$15-22; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat
There’s a wonderful old-time atmosphere at this bohemian eatery, which features a hippie waitstaff and organic bakery. Food ranges from the same old boring stuff (milanesas, spaghetti and pizza) to more interesting choices like empanadas, stuffed squash and vegan picadas (a plate of appetizers). The busy, generally non-touristy neighborhood is a plus, as is the live folk, piano and tango music that plays several times per week.
CAFÉ MARGOT
Map Argentine $
4957-0001; Av Boedo 857; mains AR$10-15; 8am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 1am Sun
Located in a non-touristy part of Buenos Aires is this classic café, which claims to have invented the turkey sandwich – at least in Argentina (in the 1940s). Mostly inexpensive meals like sandwiches, salads and pasta line the menu here, and it’s a popular place for them. The atmospheric main room is a bit snug and the back room is even smaller, so a sidewalk table is best for the claustrophobic. It’s a pretty and historic place that’s worth a stop if you’re in the neighborhood.