DAY TRIPS
DAY TRIPS
Buenos Aires can occupy many enjoyable days’ worth of your hard-earned vacation, but when you tire of the big city’s noise, concrete and busyness there’s a handful of destinations within a few hours’ travel that will sweep you into completely different worlds. After all, porteños themselves eagerly take the opportunity to get away from their beloved city on long weekend stretches, but do so especially during their summer vacations – when Buenos Aires resembles Paris in summertime, and it’s mainly the overheated tourists dragging their way through the hot and humid streets.
Most of the following trips can be done in a day, but a few are best for in-depth exploration if you have the time to spare. Among your getaway choices you can take a laid-back boat ride along the murky estuaries of Tigre’s backwaters, find peaceful town walks in San Isidro or San Antonio de Areco, wander through Colonia’s fine colonial architecture or join the summertime hordes at Punta del Este’s sunny beaches. Montevideo (Uruguay’s capital) sports its own style but is a much less frenetic city than BA, while Luján is a must for those interested in religion. For more information on the mind-blowing Cataratas de Iguazú – which are not to be missed if you have even the smallest chance of visiting them – Click here.
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NATURE
Your best bet for peaceful greenery and riverside views is the delta surrounding Tigre (right). Only an hour or so away from the center of Buenos Aires, this city provides easy access to the tranquil waterways of the spreading Delta del Paraná. There are no roads in this watery region; instead you’ll find boat trips that access summer getaway homes and peaceful nature walks.
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CITIES & TOWNS
San Isidro, just north of BA’s center, is an upscale suburb offering historical buildings and calm neighborhoods. The devotional center of Luján to the west provides an interesting look into the Catholic heart of Argentina, while Buenos Aires province’s gaucho hub is the serene village of San Antonio de Areco. Montevideo is Uruguay’s capital and lies across the Río de la Plata, but it’s easily accessible from downtown BA by ferry; it has a smaller-city feel, a distinct vibe and plenty of crumbling old European architecture worth checking out. Also in Uruguay and equally accessible is Colonia, a pleasant little colonial gem with cobbled streets and charming buildings.
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BEACHES
Punta del Este is the ritzy beach destination for many summering Argentines, providing plenty of sun, sand and stars – celebrities, that is. It fills to the brim January through March, when most porteños flee overheated Buenos Aires, but is much calmer (and less expensive) outside these peak months.
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TIGRE & THE DELTA
Only an hour’s drive from BA, tranquil Tigre and its huge river delta make a popular weekend getaway for cement-weary porteños. And while Tigre itself is a pleasant enough riverside town, it’s really the swampy waterways that everyone is after. Latte-colored waters – rich with iron from the jungle streams flowing from inland Argentina – alongside reedy shores are far from any stereotypical paradise, but there are a few hidden surprises here. Boat rides into the Delta offer peeks at local houses and colonial mansions, or you can just get off and explore some nature trails. All along the shores are signs of water-related activity, from sailing, kayaking and canoeing to sculling and even wakeboarding.
Tigre itself is easily walkable and holds some worthy attractions. Check out the Puerto de Frutos (Sarmiento 160; 
10am-6:30pm), where housewares, wicker baskets, dried flowers and plants are sold, along with a modest selection of fruits. Weekends are best: a large crafts fair sets up then. To reach the market from the Tren de la Costa’s Delta station, walk past the casino back down the tracks and turn left at the stoplight.
Also near the Delta station is Tigre’s amusement park, Parque de la Costa (
4002-6000; www.parquedelacosta.com.ar, in Spanish; admission AR$28-36). There are roller coasters, games and everything else that makes a theme park enjoyable. Opening hours vary widely throughout the year, so it’s a good idea to call beforehand.
The Museo Naval de la Nación ( 4749-0608; Paseo Victorica 602; admission AR$2; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-6:30pm Sat & Sun) traces the history of the Argentine navy with an eclectic mix of historical photos, model boats and airplanes, artillery displays and pickled sea critters. The Museo de la Reconquista ( 4512-4496; Padre Castañeda 470; admission free; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) was the house where Viceroy Liniers coordinated resistance to the British invasions of the early 19th century; it’s mildly interesting. Boat buffs can also visit the Museo Histórico Prefectura Naval Argentina ( 4749-6161; Liniers 1264; admission free; 10am-noon & 2-6pm Wed-Sun), which has exhibits on the Argentine coast guard.
Tigre’s fanciest museum, however, is the Museo de Arte Tigre ( 4512-4528; Paseo Victorica 972; admission AR$5; 9am-6pm Wed-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun). Located in an old social club from 1912, this beautiful art museum showcases famous Argentine artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. The building itself is beautiful enough to warrant a visit.
The waterways of the Delta offer a glimpse into how the locals live, along peaceful canals with boats as their only transportation. Frequent commuter launches (round trip AR$11 to AR$19) depart from Estación Fluvial (located behind the tourist office) for various destinations in the Delta. A popular destination is the neighborhood of Tres Bocas, a half-hour boat ride from Tigre, where you can take residential walks on narrow paths connected by bridges over narrow channels. There are several restaurants and accommodation options here. The Rama Negra area has a quieter and more natural setting with fewer services, but is an hour’s boat ride away.
Several companies offer inexpensive boat tours (AR$14 to A$R30, 1½ hours), but commuter launches give you flexibility if you want to go for a stroll or stop for lunch at one of the Delta’s restaurants.
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INFORMATION
- Bonanza Deltaventura ( 4728-1674; www.deltaventura.com, in English & Spanish) Offers adventures that include walks, canoe trips, bike rides, horseback rides and asados (barbecues).
- Tourist Office ( 4512-4497; www.tigre.gov.ar; 9am-5pm) Located behind McDonald’s; will help you sort out the complex Delta region. There’s a smaller booth ( 4512-4547; summer only) at the train station itself.
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EATING
Tigre’s cuisine is not cutting-edge, but it can be atmospheric – stroll Paseo Victorica, the city’s pleasant riverside avenue, for the nicest options. Otherwise, out on the Delta, there are some waterside choices in the residential Tres Bocas area, a 30-minute boat ride away.
Maria Luján ( 4731-9613; mains AR$20-40; lunch & dinner) A good choice for an upscale meal, this place has a great patio boasting river views.
La Riviera ( 4728-0177; mains AR$13-20; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat & Sun) With relaxing sunny patios and river views, this is a scenic spot to kick back. Just beyond is El Remanso ( 4728-0575) and further inland is El Hornero ( 4728-0325), with similar Argentine fare and hours.
El Gato Blanco ( 4728-0390; lunch) A 50-minute boat ride away is El Gato Blanco, the biggest restaurant in the Delta. It boasts a long menu for adults and a play structure for the kids.
Beixa Flor ( 4728-2397; lunch, afternoon tea & dinner) For something different try Beixa Flor, which specializes in homemade pasta; reservations are mandatory.
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SLEEPING
Tigre
The following three places are in the city of Tigre itself. For all accommodations in the region, book ahead on weekends.
Tigre Hostel ( 4749-4034; www.tigrehostel.com.ar, in Spanish; dm AR$36, s AR$90, d AR$180-200; 
) A great new addition to Tigre is this HI-affiliated hostel, located in an old mansion. It’s a good place, with large dorms and nice bunks, but the kitchen has iffy feng shui. Private rooms are either very spacious, with their own bathroom – or require you to walk through the dorms and share their bathrooms. A large garden and back deck are good hang-out areas. HI cardholders get a 20% discount.
Casona La Ruchi ( 4749-2499; www.casonalaruchi.com.ar, in Spanish & English; Lavalle 557; s/d AR$110/160; ) This family-run B&B is in a beautiful mansion that’s showing its age (it was built in 1893). Most of the five romantic bedrooms have balconies; all have shared bathrooms with original tiled floors. There’s a pool and a large garden out back.
Villa Julia ( 4749-0642; www.villajulia.com.ar, in Spanish & English; Paseo Victorica 800; s/d AR$480/650; 
) Just five luxurious rooms and suites are available at this classic 1913 mansion, where original tile work, large balconies and thick robes make for a very special stay. The atmosphere is lovely, and there’s a swimming pool and restaurant.
VISITING IGUAZú FALLS
- One-way bus ticket from BA to Puerto Iguazú: AR$165, 19 hours
- Round-trip airplane ticket from BA to Puerto Iguazú: AR$760
- Package deal – return airfare, airport transfers and two-nights’ stay at a three-star hotel (double occupancy): AR$400 to AR$500 per person. This sometimes include transport to and from the falls, but doesn’t include admission to the national park in which the falls are located.
For general information on Iguazú, see the Casa de Misiones tourist office (Map; 4317-3700; Santa Fe 898; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri).
The Delta
The huge Delta region is dotted with dozens of accommodation possibilities: camping, B&Bs, cabanas, beach resorts and even activity-oriented places. The further out you are, the more peace and quiet you’ll experience. Since places are relatively hard to reach (guests generally arrive by boat), the majority provide meal services. Children are welcome at some places but not at others. Bring mosquito repellent.
Prices below are for weekends; on weekdays prices can drop significantly. The Tigre tourist office has photos and information on all these places, and many are listed on its website at www.tigre.gov.ar.
Alpenhaus ( 4731-4526; www.alpenhaus.com.ar, in English & Spanish; d AR$650-850) A 60-minute boat ride from Tigre, this German-themed hostería (inn) offers two large and modern alpine-style cabanas, along with more modest but still pleasant rooms. There’s a great pool and grassy lounging areas. Massage and sauna are included in the price.
La Morada ( 4728-2796; www.moradadelta.com, in English & Spanish; d AR$285) A 30-minute boat ride from Tigre. Decidedly un-luxurious but comfortable enough, this large house has just four simple rooms. Outside are grassy grounds and a tiny pool surrounded by a large wooden sundeck with plenty of loungers.
Los Pecanes ( 4728-1932; www.hosterialospecanes.com, in English & Spanish; d AR$200) A 90-minute boat ride from Tigre. You’ll feel at home in this friendly, family-run B&B with just three simple but comfortable guestrooms. The meals are homemade and there are plenty of activities. English and French are spoken.
Puerto Carpincho ( 4728-2966; www.puertocarpincho.com, in English & Spanish; d Mon-Fri AR$240-280, Sat & Sun AR$440-510) A 30-minute boat ride away, in the busier Tres Bocas area. Nine simple but tasteful rooms, all with balcony; some lead down to the sunny pool. There’s no restaurant, but El Hornero is right next door.
La Becasina Lodge ( 4328-2687; www.labecasina.com, in English & Spanish; d AR$915) A 90-minute boat ride from Tigre. For luxury, this beautiful place will do. The 15 private, stilted guestrooms are lovely, each with a nice bathtub and a wonderful balcony overlooking the river. Good service, excellent food and romantic atmosphere. Gorgeous pool area.
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SAN ISIDRO
About 22km north of Buenos Aires is peaceful and residential San Isidro, a charming suburb of cobblestone streets lined with graceful buildings. The historic center is at Plaza Mitre, with its beautiful neo-Gothic cathedral; on weekends the area buzzes with a crafts fair. There’s a tourist office ( 4512-3209; Ituzaingo 608) at the plaza near Av Libertador, next to the rugby museum.
A stroll through the rambling neighborhood streets behind the cathedral will turn up some luxurious mansions (as well as more modest houses) and the occasional view over toward the coast. Close by is also the Tren de la Costa’s San Isidro station, with a fashionable outdoor shopping mall to explore.
Once owned by Argentine icon General Pueyrredón, the Museo Histórico Municipal General Pueyrredón ( 4512-3131; Rivera Indarte 48; admission free; 2-6pm Tue & Thu, Sat & Sun) is an old colonial villa set on spacious grounds with faraway views of the Río de la Plata. Don’t miss the algarrobo (carob) tree under which Pueyrredón and San Martín strategized against the Spanish. To get here from the cathedral, follow Av Libertador five blocks, turn left on Peña and after two blocks turn right onto Rivera Indarte.
Even more glamorous is the Unesco-owned Villa Ocampo ( 4732-4988; www.villaocampo.org; Elortondo 1837; admission AR$10; 3-7pm Sat & Sun), a wonderfully restored mansion and reminder of a bygone era. Victoria Ocampo was a writer, publisher and intellectual who dallied with the literary likes of Borges, Cortázar, Sabato and Camus. The gardens are lovely here; tours and a café are also available.
For lunch options in San Isidro, try the various eateries along Av Libertador, or the upscale Ummus ( 4002-6076; Tren de la Costa station; mains AR$20-30; lunch & dinner).
If you decide to spend the night in San Isidro try Hotel del Casco ( 4732-3993; www.hoteldelcasco.com.ar, in English & Spanish; Av del Libertador 16170; d from AR$150), located in a gorgeous 1892 mansion. An atrium lobby, period furnishings and a lovely courtyard are all part of the charm.
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LUJÁN
Luján (population 78,200) is a sleepy riverside town that once a year overflows with pilgrims making their way to Argentina’s most important shrine. It’s worth visiting any time, though, for its gracious Spanish-style paved square and the imposing neo-Gothic cathedral, as well as a couple of interesting museums. The riverside area is lined with restaurants and barbecue stands selling choripán (spicy sausage sandwiches); you can rent boats for a paddle on the river and on festival days there are games and rides. The chairlift carrying sightseers over the grubby river is an oddly charming touch.
On the first Saturday in October, thousands of Catholics walk to Luján from Buenos Aires’ barrio of Liniers (65km away!) – up to an 18-hour trek. Other large gatherings occur on April 21, May 8 (the Virgin’s Day), the third week of November and December 8 (Immaculate Conception Day).
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INFORMATION
Area code ( 02323)
- Oficina de Turismo ( 420-453; San Martín 1, edificio La Cúpola; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Near the river at the west end of Lavalle.
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SIGHTS
Luján’s striking French Gothic basilica, the Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján ( 420-058; cnr San Martín & 9 de Julio; tours AR$1) is home to the Virgencita (see the boxed text below) and the heart of this deeply religious town. The statue of the virgin, which dates from 1630, sits in the high chamber behind the main altar. Masses take place in the basilica several times a day, mostly morning and evening.
Another place you shouldn’t miss is the gorgeous, colonial-era Complejo Museográfico Enrique Udaondo ( 420-245; cnr Lavalle & Padre Salvaire; admission AR$1; noon-6pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, Sun & holidays). This colonial complex (and ex-prison) has exhibitions showcasing the exploits of General José de San Martín and Juan Manuel de Rosas, as well as beautiful mate ware, ponchos, silver horse gear, guitars and other gaucho paraphernalia. The pretty patios and gardens are in themselves worth a look.
The nearby Museo de Transporte ( 420-245; cnr Lavalle & Padre Salvaire; admission AR$1; noon-6pm Wed-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, Sun & holidays) displays a steam locomotive, a hydroplane that was used to cross the Atlantic in 1926 and some fantastic, Cinderella-style carriages. The most offbeat exhibits, however, are the stuffed and scruffy remains of Gato and Mancha, the hardy Argentine criollo horses ridden by adventurer AF Tschiffely from Buenos Aires to Washington, DC.
Luján also boasts a leafy, elevated riverside area full of restaurants and more shops, and leisurely paddleboat rides are available.
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EATING
Pilgrims won’t go hungry in Luján – the central parts of San Martín, 9 de Julio and the riverfront are all lined with restaurants.
La Catedral ( 440-668; 9 Julio 1074; mains AR$10-22; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun, lunch Mon) Buzzing on weekends, this spot boasts a good salad bar (AR$10) and delicious homemade pasta.
Café La Basilica ( 428-376; San Martín 101; mains AR$15-30; 7am-7pm Sun-Thu, 7am-1am Fri & Sat) This classic old corner bar offers homemade breakfast pastries and a large selection of cocktails, as well as satisfying meals.
L’Eau Vive ( 421-774; Constitución 2112; 3-course menu AR$25-28; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Two kilometers from the center you’ll find this friendly French restaurant run by Carmelite nuns from around the world. Taxis here cost around AR$5, or take bus 501 from the center.
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SLEEPING
Rates drop by around 30% during the week, and reservations are needed on weekends and holidays.
Hotel de la Paz ( 424-034; hoteldelapaz@hotmail.com; 9 de Julio 1054; d AR$130) Well-located and friendly, Hotel de la Paz hints at old-time charm. The homey rooms are small and modest, while bathrooms have open showers.
Hotel del Virrey ( 420-797; San Martín 129; d AR$120) The Virrey is a modern hotel right near the basilica, offering 18 decent rooms and a pool.
Hotel Hoxón ( 429-970; www.hotelhoxon.com.ar, in Spanish; 9 de Julio 760; s/d AR$78/128) The best and biggest in town, with modern, clean and comfortable rooms. The large swimming pool has a raised sundeck, and there’s a gym as well.
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SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO
Nestled in lush farmlands, San Antonio de Areco is probably the prettiest town in the pampas. An easy drive from the capital, it welcomes many day-tripping porteños, who come for the peaceful atmosphere and the picturesque colonial streets. The town dates from the early 18th century and to this day it preserves a great deal of the criollo (creole) and gaucho traditions, especially among its artisans, who produce very fine silverwork and saddlery. By day, men don the traditional boina (a kind of gaucho beret), while in the evenings locals head to the peña, a party with folk music and dancing.
Areco’s compact center and quiet streets are very walkable. Around the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, named in honor of the town’s founding estanciero (rancher), are several historic buildings, including the Iglesia Parroquial (parish church) and the Casa de los Martínez, the site of the main house of the original Ruiz de Arellano estancia (cattle ranch).
The Puente Viejo (old bridge; built 1857) across the Río Areco follows the original cart road to northern Argentina. Once a toll crossing, it’s now a pedestrian bridge leading to San Antonio’s main attraction, the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes ( 455-839; cnr R Güiraldes & Sosa; admission AR$3; 11am-5pm Wed-Mon). This parklike gaucholand features restored or fabricated buildings that include an old flour mill, a recreated tavern and a colonial-style chapel. The main deal is a 20th-century reproduction of an 18th-century casco (ranch house), which holds lots of gorgeous horse gear and various works of gauchesco art. Two rooms are dedicated to Güiraldes himself.
The small Museo y Taller Draghi ( 454-219; Lavalle 387; residents/foreigners AR$3/5; 10:30am-1pm & 3:30-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-1pm Sun) highlights an exceptional collection of silver facones (gaucho knives), beautiful horse gear and intricate mate paraphernalia. It’s mainly the workshop of Juan José Draghi and family, however, so guided tours are given.
Another site worth visiting is the Centro Cultural Usina Vieja ( 452-021; V Alsina 660; admission free; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun), just half a block from the main plaza. An eclectic museum in an old power plant that dates from 1901, it features a funky collection of ancient radios, typewriters, sewing machines and record players. Farm equipment, sculptures, an old-time grocery store and even a small airplane are also on display, as are rotating exhibits of local artists’ work.
HISTORIC ESTANCIAS
- Estancia La Cinacina (Map; 452-045; www.lacinacina.com.ar, in Spanish; B Mitre 9, San Antonio de Areco; day tours AR$90, d per person AR$350) Right on the edge of town, this historic estancia offers comfortable lodgings in a pretty park setting, with horse rides and bicycle use.
- Estancia La Bamba (off Map; 456-293; www.la-bamba.com.ar, in English & Spanish; day tours AR$200, d AR$1180) One of the oldest, about 15km east of San Antonio de Areco along RN 8; it dates from 1830 and retains its original pulperia, or gaucho bar. The comfortable guest rooms are filled with antiques.
- Estancia El Ombú (off Map; 492-080, in Buenos Aires 011-4737-0436; www.estanciaelombu.com, in English & Spanish; day tours AR$150, d per person AR$270) Just 6km from San Antonio de Areco, this working estancia once belonged to General Pablo Ricchieri, who first inflicted universal military conscription on the country.
- La Candelaria ( 02227-424-404; www.estanciacandelaria.com, in Spanish; Ruta 205, Lobos; day tours AR$165, d AR$300) The grounds here were designed by Charles Thays, responsible for many of Buenos Aires’ public parks. Polo matches are often held.
- Santa Rita ( 02227-495-026; www.santa-rita.com.ar, in English & Spanish; Ruta 205, Lobos; day tours AR$150, d AR$400) A somewhat eccentric restoration rescued this colonial-era home, whose chapel is one of the oldest in the province.
- Juan Gerónimo GD ( 02221-481-414; www.juangeronimo.com.ar; Ruta 36, Veronica; day tours AR$200, d AR$400) There’s excellent horseback riding and bird-watching at this working cattle farm, located within a Unesco World Biosphere Reserve.
- Bella Vista de Guerrero ( 02245-481-234; www.bellavistadeguerrero.com, in English & Spanish; Ruta 2, Castelli; day tours AR$272, d $544) Boasts a magnificently restored mansion, gourmet cuisine, luxurious rooms and a day spa.
San Antonio’s tourist office has more information on estancias, as does Buenos Aires’ Secretaría de Turismo de la Nación (Map; 4312-2232; Av Santa Fe 883). Online you can check www.estanciastravel.com and www.estanciasargentinas.com; both in English & Spanish.
Areco is the symbolic center of Argentina’s vestigial cowboy culture, and on Día de la Tradición in mid-November, the town puts on the country’s biggest gaucho celebration. If you’re in the area, don’t miss it: attractions include displays of horsemanship, folk dancing, craft exhibitions and guided tours of historic sites.
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INFORMATION
The area code for San Antonio de Areco is 02326.
- Tourist office ( 453-165; cnr E Zerboni & Ruiz de Arellano; 8:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun) Located in a white, stand-alone building in the park.
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EATING
San Antonio de Areco has a considerable assortment of character-filled cafes and restaurants to choose from.
La Ochava de Cocota ( 452-176; cnr V Alsina & LN Alem; mains AR$12-22; breakfast, lunch & dinner Wed-Sat & Mon, dinner Sun) This old corner bar serves homemade cakes and quiches by day, and cheese plates and pizzas by night.
Pulpería La Lechuza ( 454-542, near cnr Ruiz de Arellano & E Zerboni; mains AR$12-26; lunch & dinner) Enjoy a huge lunch of empanadas and barbecued beef under the trees, or grab a choripán to go. It’s opposite the tourist office.
Zarza ( 453-948; San Martín 361; mains AR$14-23; lunch & dinner Sat-Mon, dinner Wed-Mon) Serving Argentine staples with a twist, this stylish restaurant offers plenty of inventive pasta options for vegetarians.
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SLEEPING
While San Antonio is popular as a day trip out of Buenos Aires, it’s worth hanging around, as there are some lovely places to stay.
Hostal de Areco ( 456-118; www.hostaldeareco.com.ar, in Spanish; Zapiola 25; d/tw AR$100/150) Clustered with two other hotels, which aren’t as personable, but do have pools. The pleasant salon, complete with roaring fire in winter, makes up for the smallish rooms.
Antigua Casona ( 456-600; www.antiguacasona.com, in English & Spanish; Segundo Sombra 495; s/d/tw AR$120/250/360) This restored traditional home has a quiet patio that often hosts wine-and-cheese tastings, and five rustically decorated rooms. Bikes are available, and many of the cute antique furnishings are for sale.
Paradores Draghi ( 454-219; reception at Lavalle 387; draghi@lq.com.ar; d AR$220) Five large, gorgeous rooms (some with kitchenette) are available at this tranquil place. A lush garden with fountain soothes the spirit. Also has free bike rentals.
Patio de Moreno ( 445-197; www.patiodemoreno.com, in English & Spanish; M Moreno 251; d AR$435-540) The town’s hippest hotel boasts a fountain in the sunlit breakfast salon, with a serene patio and plunge pool. Slick, contemporary design in the king-sized bedrooms.
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COLONIA
Colonia (officially Colonia del Sacramento) is an irresistibly picturesque town in neighboring Uruguay whose colonial-era Barrio Histórico is a Unesco World Heritage site. Pretty rows of sycamores offer protection from the summer heat, and the Río de la Plata provides a venue for spectacular sunsets. Colonia’s charm and its proximity to Buenos Aires draw thousands of Argentine visitors, and if you’re short on time you can visit here comfortably on a day trip.
The city’s heart – and main tourist attraction – is the Barrio Histórico, a historical neighborhood full of colonial architecture. The most dramatic way to enter is via the reconstructed 1745 city gate, the Portón de Campo, on Calle Manuel Lobo. A short distance west is Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo, from which the narrow, roughly cobbled Calle de los Suspiros (Street of Sighs), lined with tile-and-stucco colonial houses, runs south almost to the water.
A single Ur$25 ticket covers admission to Colonia’s seven most major historical sights. All keep the same hours ( 11:15am to 4:45pm), but opening days vary as noted. Around Plaza Mayor are the following four attractions.
Museo Portugués (Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo 180; closed Wed), holds Portuguese relics including porcelain, furniture, maps and the old stone shield that once adorned the Portón de Campo. Museo Municipal (Comercio 77; closed Tue) houses an eclectic collection of treasures, including a whale skeleton, an enormous rudder from a shipwreck and a scale model of Colonia c 1762. Casa Nacarello (Comercio 67; closed Tue) is one of the prettiest colonial homes in town, with period furniture, thick, whitewashed walls, wavy glass, original lintels and a nice courtyard. Archivo Regional (Misiones de los Tapes 115; closed Wed) contains historical documents and a bookstore.
Off the southwest corner of the Plaza Mayor are the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco, within which stands the 19th-century faro (lighthouse; admission Ur$15; 10:30am-noon Sat & Sun). The lighthouse provides an excellent view of the old town.
TRANSPORTATION: COLONIA
- Distance from Buenos Aires 60km.
- Direction East.
- Travel time One to three hours by ferry.
- Boat Buquebus (www.buquebus.com) in Buenos Aires (p214 4316-6500) and Colonia ( 22975) has fast (AR$120, one hour) and slow (AR$78, three hours) ferries to Colonia.
Head to the west end of Misiones de los Tapes to the dinky Museo del Azulejo (cnr Misiones de los Tapes & Paseo de San Gabriel; closed Wed), a 17th-century house with a sampling of colonial tile work. From here, walk north two blocks, then inland to the Museo Indígena (Comercio s/n; closed Thu), which houses a collection of Charrúa (the indigenous people of Uruguay) stone tools and exhibits on indigenous history.
Heading east on Av General Flores and then a block further north brings you near the Museo Español (San José 164; closed Thu), which has exhibitions of replica colonial pottery, clothing and maps. At the north end of nearby Calle España is the Puerto Viejo, the old port, now a yacht harbor. One block east, the Teatro Bastión del Carmen (cnr Calle del Virrey Cevallos & Rivadavia) is a theater and gallery complex that incorporates part of the city’s ancient fortifications. The huge chimney is newer, dating from the 1880s.
South a couple of blocks is the Plaza de Armas, also known as Plaza Manuel Lobo. The Iglesia Matriz, begun in 1680, is Uruguay’s oldest church, though it has been completely rebuilt twice. The plaza also holds the foundations of a house dating from Portuguese times.
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INFORMATION
Colonia’s area code is 052.
- Municipal Tourist Office ( 26141; 9am-7pm, to 8pm summer) Centro (Av General Flores 499); Barrio Histórico (Manuel Lobo s/n) The latter branch is just outside the old town gate.
- National Tourism Ministry ( 24897) In front of the ferry terminal.
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EATING
Colonia has a good range of restaurants to choose from.
Nuevo San Cono ( 28964; cnr Intendente Suárez & 18 de Julio; mains Ur$70-90; noon-midnight) With a well-stocked bar and a roaring fire, this traditional neighborhood parrilla (steakhouse) is a cozy place to pass a chilly evening.
La Bodeguita ( 25329; Comercio 167; meals Ur$125-260; 8pm-late daily, plus 12:30-4pm Sat & Sun) Nab a table out back on the sunny, two-level deck and soak up the sweeping river views while drinking sangría or munching on La Bodeguita’s trademark pizza.
El Rincón ( 099-675202; Misiones de los Tapes 41; mains Ur$130-250; noon-5pm) El Rincón is best enjoyed on a sunny weekend afternoon, lounging out back under a big tree between stone and stucco walls or watching the riverfront scene.
Pulpería de los Faroles ( 30271; Misiones de los Tapes 101; mains Ur$140-250; noon-midnight) Specializing in seafood and pasta, this reader-recommended eatery has a rainbow of colorful tablecloths in the artsy interior dining room, plus a sea of informal outdoor seating on Plaza Mayor.
Sacramento ( 29245; cnr Comercio & Calle de la Playa; mains Ur$200-280; noon-4pm daily, plus 8pm-late Fri & Sat) Sacramento earns its reputation as one of Colonia’s best restaurants, with tasty creations such as risotto in champagne with sesame-marinated spider crabs, or ricotta, leek, and bacon ravioli.
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SLEEPING
Some hotels charge higher rates Friday through Sunday. On summer weekends, book well in advance.
Hostel El Español ( 30759; hostelespaniol@hotmail.com; Calle Manuel Lobo 377; dm/d with shared bathroom Ur$150/300, with private bathroom Ur$180/400) Popular with young Latin Americans, this hostel’s large, dark rooms are redeemed by the bright, spacious dining/internet area. HI members get 10% off.
Hotel Colonial ( 30347; hostelling_colonial@hotmail.com; Av General Flores 440; dm/d with shared bathroom Ur$170/400) A rather drab but friendly hostel with four-bed dorm rooms, a kitchen, fireplace and laundry facilities. The Colonial offers free bikes and internet for guests’ use, and organizes horseback excursions for Ur$400 per day. HI members get 10% off.
Posada del Río ( 23002; Washington Barbot 258; s/d/tr Ur$430/790/1090; ) This peaceful place on a dead-end street is somewhat faded but still good value. The tiny upstairs breakfast room has partial river views.
Posada San Gabriel ( 23283; psangabriel@adinet.com.uy; Comercio 127; r downstairs/upstairs Ur$800/1000) This sweet posada (inn) with stone walls, brass beds, and wi-fi is surprisingly affordable given its prime location. Two upstairs rooms have river views.
Posada de la Flor ( 30794; posada_delaflor@yahoo.com.ar; Ituzaingó 268; r Ur$1100, weekdays Ur$800) Serenely situated on a sycamore-lined street dead-ending onto a small beach, the Flor’s biggest draw is its upstairs terrace with lounge chairs overlooking the river.
Casa de los Naranjos ( 24630; www.posadalosnaranjos.com, in Spanish; 18 de Julio 219; r from Ur$1100) A grassy yard with swimming pool and a 200-year-old orange tree grace this quiet colonial posada in the Barrio Histórico. The suite in a small house out back is charming.
Posada Manuel de Lobo ( 22463; www.posadamanueldelobo.com, in Spanish; Ituzaingó 160; d/tr/q Ur$1550/1750/2000) The historical charms of this 150-year-old house include heavy wooden furniture, antique tile work, beamed ceilings, brick walls, fountains, and twin patios out back. All rooms have wi-fi, and suites have Jacuzzis.
Posada Plaza Mayor ( 23193; www.posadaplazamayor.com, in English & Spanish; Comercio 111; r from Ur$1900) In the heart of historic Colonia, the Playa Mayor comprises two colonial houses. The stone-walled, high-ceilinged 19th-century Spanish rooms surround a beautiful courtyard with a fountain; the adjoining 18th-century Portuguese structure houses several lovely common areas.
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MONTEVIDEO
Uruguay’s capital and by far its largest city, Montevideo is a vibrant, eclectic place with a rich cultural life. In the historic downtown business district, art deco and neoclassical buildings jostle for space alongside grimy, worn-out skyscrapers, while in Ciudad Vieja – the heart of historic Montevideo – old buildings are being restored to make room for boldly painted cafés, hostels and galleries. Meanwhile, the city’s music, theater, art and club scenes continue to thrive, from elegant older theaters and cozy little tango bars to modern beachfront discos.
CROSSING INTO URUGUAY
Uruguay’s unit of currency is the peso (Ur$), but US dollars and Argentine pesos are widely accepted for tourist services. Uruguay’s telephone country code is 598. The country is one hour ahead of Argentina, but daylight saving may affect time differences.
Montevideo’s key commercial and entertainment area is Av 18 de Julio, but its functional center is Plaza Independencia. It’s here that you’ll find the somber yet dramatic Mausoleo de Artigas, which celebrates the achievements of Uruguay’s independence hero. The underground mausoleum is smack in the middle of the plaza; look for stairs underneath the statue of Artigas on horseback.
Just off the plaza is the elegant Teatro Solís ( 1950, ext 3323; www.teatrosolis.org.uy; Buenos Aires 678), Montevideo’s premier performance space. First opened in 1856 and completely renovated during the past decade, it has superb acoustics and hosts music festivals, concerts, ballet, opera and plays. Regularly scheduled tours (Wed admission free, Fri-Sun Ur$20) are given four days a week at 11am, noon and 4pm.
Three blocks east of the plaza, the Museo del Gaucho y de la Moneda ( 900-8764; 18 de Julio 998; admission free; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) eloquently conveys the deep attachment and interdependent relationship between gauchos, their animals and the land. The excellent collection features artifacts from Uruguay’s gaucho history, including horse gear, silver work and mate gourds and bombillas (drinking straws) in whimsical designs.
Uruguay’s largest collection of paintings is housed in the Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (MNAV; 711-6124; www.mnav.gub.uy; cnr Av Herrera y Reissig & T Giribaldi; 2-6:45pm Tue-Sun) in Parque Rodó. The large rooms are graced with works by Blanes, Cúneo, Figari and Torres García.
Vestiges of Montevideo’s 19th-century neoclassical buildings still exist in Ciudad Vieja, the city’s picturesque historic neighborhood. Many museums are located in this area, including the Casa Rivera ( 915-1051; Rincón 437; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat), former home of Uruguay’s first president and the founder of the Colorado Party. The collection of paintings, documents, furniture and artifacts traces Uruguayan history from indigenous roots through independence. A couple of blocks away is the Museo de Artes Decorativas ( 915-1101; 25 de Mayo 376; 12:30-6pm Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun), a wealthy merchant’s residence dating from 1810. Free guided tours of the palatial building and its exquisite furnishings are given (in Spanish) at 4:30pm.
Over by the waterfront, the Museo del Carnaval ( 916-5493; Rambla 25 de Agosto 218; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) houses a wonderful collection of costumes, drums, masks, recordings and photos documenting the 100-plus-year history of Montevideo’s Carnaval. Nearby, the Mercado del Puerto is a wrought-iron superstructure from 1868, sheltering a gaggle of reasonably priced parrillas. Especially on Saturday afternoons, it’s a lively and colorful spot where artists, craftspeople and street musicians hang out.
East of downtown, La Rambla – Montevideo’s long coastal promenade – is one of the city’s defining elements, connecting downtown to the eastern beach communities of Punta Carretas, Pocitos, Buceo and Carrasco. This is Montevideo’s social hub on Sunday afternoons, when the place is packed with locals cradling thermoses of mate and socializing with friends.
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INFORMATION
Montevideo’s area code is 02.
- Municipal tourist office Centro ( 1950; cnr Av 18 de Julio & Ejido; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun); Ciudad Vieja ( 1950 ext 1830; cnr Rambla 25 de Agosto & Maciel; 10am-6pm) At the time of research, there were plans to close the downtown branch and move operations to a location next to the Museo del Carnaval.
- National Tourism Ministry Ciudad Vieja ( 1885, ext 111; cnr Rambla 25 de Agosto & Yacaré; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri); Carrasco Airport ( 604-0386; 8am-10pm); Tres Cruces bus terminal ( 409-7399; cnr Bulevar Artigas & Av Italia; 8am-10pm)
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EATING
Montevideo’s restaurants are largely unpretentious and offer excellent values.
Ciudad Vieja
The classic area for restaurants in Montevideo is Mercado del Puerto on the Ciudad Vieja waterfront. The densely packed parrillas here cater to every budget and serve up obscenely huge steaks.
Café Roldós ( 915-1520; Mercado del Puerto; sandwiches Ur$40; 9am-7pm) This historic spot has been pouring its famous medio y medio – a refreshing concoction of half wine, half spark-ling wine – since 1886. Throw in a tasty sandwich and you’ve got a meal!
Las Misiones ( 915-4495; 25 de Mayo 449; daily specials Ur$110-130; 6am-6pm Mon-Fri) Even before you walk in the door, this eye-catching corner café wins points for its lovely green-and-yellow-tiled exterior dating back to 1907. Chivitos (steak sandwiches), salads and sugerencias del día (daily specials) are all good value.
CIUDAD VIEJA WARNING
While Montevideo is pretty sedate by Latin American standards, exercise caution as in any large city. Wallet- and purse-snatchings are not uncommon in the Ciudad Vieja, and it’s wise to avoid Mercado del Puerto at night. If you want to report a crime, contact the Tourist Police ( 908-9015).
Café Bacacay ( 916-6074; Bacacay 1306; mains Ur$70-240; 9am-late Mon-Sat) Across from Teatro Solís, this chic little café serves a mouthwatering fish of the day with wasabi or limoncello sauce. Or, build your own salads with tasty ingredients like grilled eggplant, spinach and smoked salmon. Desserts include chocolate cake, pear tart, and lemon pie.
Centro
La Vegetariana ( 902-3178; Yí 1369; meals Ur$70-95) Grab a plate and help yourself from the steam trays, salad bar and dessert table – it’s not fine dining, but it’s one of the few truly veggie options in this meat-crazed country.
El Rincón de los Poetas ( 901-5102; cnr Aquiles Lanza & San José; mains Ur$95-170; 10am-late) One of four eateries in the Mercado de la Abundancia, this place epitomizes the Mercado’s cozy, relaxed ambience. All restaurants feature the classic Uruguayan trinity of pasta, pizza and, of course, roast meat.
Ruffino Pizza y Pasta ( 908-3384; San José 1166; mains Ur$95-210; noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri, dinner only Sat, lunch only Sun) Extremely popular for Sunday lunch, Ruffino’s is a good, midbudget Italian option. Try its Caruso (mushroom and cream) sauce, a uniquely Uruguayan specialty created for Italian tenor Enrico Caruso during his 1915 visit to Montevideo.
Los Leños Uruguayos ( 900-2285; San José 909; mains Ur$135-340; noon-4pm & 7:30pm-12:30am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) is a favorite with the business set. It has a nice salad bar, and there’s always a big rack of meat roasting on the fire up front. The lunchtime menu ejecutivo (Ur$135) and sugerencia del día (Ur$185) are both great deals, including cubierto (cover charge), main dish, dessert and coffee.
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SLEEPING
Montevideo’s burgeoning hostel scene is a dream come true for budget travelers.
Ciudad Vieja
Ciudad Vieja Hostel ( 915-6192; www.ciudadviejahostel.com, in English & Spanish; Ituzaingó 1436; dm per person with/without HI card Ur$220/240, d with/without HI card Ur$615/660) This relative newcomer to Montevideo’s hostel scene has friendly staff and a homey, hip atmosphere. There are kitchens and lounging areas on each level, a roof deck and rental bikes.
Posada al Sur ( 916-5287; www.posadaalsur.com.uy, in English & Spanish; Pérez Castellano 1424; dm per person Ur$330, d with shared/private bathroom Ur$660/770) A few blocks above Mercado del Puerto, this lovingly restored older building has a six-bed dorm room and three private rooms. Discounts are available for groups. Proceeds help support their newly established ecotourism business.
Spléndido Hotel ( 916-4900; www.splendidohotel.com.uy, in English & Spanish; Bartolomé Mitre 1314; s Ur$350-500, d Ur$400-800, tr Ur$700) The faded but friendly Spléndido offers excellent value. There’s a remarkable variety of rooms, from the ultra-cheap to ones with 15ft ceilings and French doors opening onto balconies. Breakfast not included.
Hotel Palacio ( 916-3612; www.hotelpalacio.com.uy, in English & Spanish; Bartolomé Mitre 1364; d with shared/private bathroom Ur$330/550) This ancient hotel has sagging brass beds, antique furniture and a vintage elevator. Try for one of the two sixth-floor rooms; the views of the Ciudad Vieja from the large balconies are superb.
Centro
Montevideo Hostel ( 908-1324; www.montevideohostel.com.uy, in Spanish; Canelones 935; per person with/without HI or ISIC card Ur$200/250) With musical instruments strewn everywhere, a cellar bar, a nice fireplace and a spiral staircase connecting all three levels of the spacious central common area, this older hostel, managed by the same family for years, remains one of Montevideo’s best budget options.
Red Hostel ( 908-8514; www.redhostel.com, in English & Spanish; San José 1406; dm/s/d Ur$275/550/750) The bright orange walls and the roof deck, plants and natural light pouring in through stained-glass skylights make this Montevideo’s cheeriest hostel. The staff are energetic and friendly, and even though the TV room and kitchen could be a tad bigger, it’s highly recommended overall.
Hotel Lancaster ( 902-1054; www.lancasterhotel.com.uy, in English & Spanish; Plaza Cagancha 1334; s/d/tr from Ur$750/900/1100; ) This centrally located three-star on Plaza Cagancha is good value. Despite the unpromising exterior and bland, functional lobby décor, the rooms are clean and comfortable, many with views of the square below.
London Palace Hotel ( 902-0024; www.lphotel.com, in English & Spanish; Río Negro 1278; s/d Ur$900/1100; ) Spotless, quiet, comfortable and central, this hotel is a solid midrange option with business facilities.
Hotel Embajador ( 902-0012; www.hotelembajador.com, in Spanish; San José 1212; s/d Ur$1000/1300; 
) The four-star Embajador offers comfortable accommodation without a monster price tag. There’s wi-fi in all rooms, a rooftop pool and sauna, and plenty of other amenities.
Radisson Victoria Plaza ( 902-0111; www.radisson.com/montevideouy; Plaza Independencia 759; s/d Ur$3200/3500, ste Ur$3800; ) A true five-star hotel, with luxurious rooms, a semi-Olympic (25m) swimming pool and remarkable city views from the 25th-floor restaurant. The central location on Plaza Independencia can’t be beat.
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PUNTA DEL ESTE
Punta del Este – with its many beaches, elegant seaside homes, yacht harbor, high-rise apartment buildings, pricey hotels and glitzy restaurants – is one of South America’s most glamorous resorts and easily the most expensive place in Uruguay. Extremely popular with Argentines (especially in January and February) and Brazilians, Punta suffered a period of decline during the Uruguayan and Argentine recessions, but has come back with a vengeance. Celebrity-watchers have a full-time job here: Punta has hosted the likes of Ralph Lauren, soccer star Zinedine Zidane, and Metallica’s lead singer, James Hetfield.
Punta’s center is very walkable – you can casually stroll from one end to the other in less than half an hour. Av Gorlero, the city’s main drag, is just 10 blocks long and offers the biggest concentration of touristy shops, services and casual eateries.
Beaches are the area’s main attraction, however. Punta is at the rocky tip of a V-shaped peninsula edged with sandy ribbons. Close to the center and on the Río de la Plata side of the peninsula is Playa Mansa, whose calm sands attract families and low-key beachgoers. Playa Brava is on the east side but less than a five-minute walk away; it has a more active crowd and boasts fierce waves that claim a few lives each year, so be careful when swimming here.
Punta’s best beaches, however, are a short bus ride away. Stretching up to the northeast is a run of sand that ends 10km away at La Barra, where the rich and good-looking come to party and preen themselves. Disco clubs, restaurants and shops service the trendy crowds.
Heading up on the northwest side of the peninsula is another stretch of beaches that ends 15km away at Punta Ballena, whose main tourist attraction is Casapueblo ( 578-041; admission Ur$100; 10am-sunset), a free-form, neo-Mediterranean structure covered in blindingly white stucco and boasting unforgettable views. It’s a luxury hotel, café/bar and art gallery inspired by Uruguayan artist and adventurer Carlos Páez Vilaró. To get here, walk 2km from the junction where Olivera’s Línea 8 bus drops you off.
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INFORMATION
Punta’s area code is 42.
- Centro de Hoteles y Restaurantes 440-512; www.puntadelestehoteles.com, in English & Spanish; Plaza Artigas; 8am-midnight Dec-Mar, 10am-6pm Apr-Nov) Helps with hotel bookings.
- Municipal Tourist Office ( 446-510; www.maldonado.gub.uy, in Spanish; cnr Calle 31 & La Rambla; 8am-midnight mid-Dec–Feb, 10am-4pm Mar–mid-Dec) Maintains a second branch on Plaza Artigas.
- National Tourism Ministry ( 441-218; puntadeleste@mintur.gub.uy; Gorlero 942; 9am-2pm & 5-10pm Dec-Mar, 10am-6pm Apr-Nov)
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EATING
Punta has an eatery for almost any budget, and boasts excellent seafood restaurants. Hours are more limited outside summer, when some places open only on weekends.
El Milagro ( 443-866; Calle 17 btwn Calles 22 & 24; mains Ur$60-110; 11am-midnight) This humble chivitería and pizzeria is about as affordable as things get in Punta. It has a menu del día for Ur$60 and – surprisingly enough – no cover charge.
La Fonda del Pesca ( 449-165; Calle 29 btwn Gorlero & Calle 24; mains Ur$65-180; noon-11pm) A vividly painted hole-in-the-wall specializing in fish, La Fonda also serves up plenty of local color. Owner/chef Pesca makes personal appearances at diners’ tables to make sure they’re enjoying themselves.
Chivitería Marcos ( 449-932; Rambla Artigas btwn Calles 12 & 14; chivitos Ur$120; 11am-4am Dec-Mar, 11am-4pm & 8pm-late Apr-Nov) Montevideo-based Marcos earned its fame building mega-sandwiches to order. Just tell the chivito-sculptor behind the counter which of the 12 toppings and nine sauces you want, then try to balance the thing back to your table.
Baby Gouda Deli Café ( 771-874; Ruta 10, km161, La Barra; mains from Ur$150; 11am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri-Sun) An ultracool deli with an inviting outdoor deck, on the main drag in La Barra, located a couple of blocks up from the beach.
Lo de Charlie ( 444-183; Calle 12 819; mains Ur$210-550; 11am-4pm & 8pm-1am Thu-Sun) Owned by a fishing buddy of local artist Carlos Páez Vilaró and decorated with some of his work, this is one of Punta’s premier restaurants. The endless culinary delights include gazpacho, ceviche, risotto, homemade pasta, fish and shellfish.
Il Baretto ( 447-243; cnr Calles 9 & 10; mains Ur$280-570; noon-4pm & 8pm-late Thu-Sun) Il Baretto’s super-colorful menu features some of the best pasta in Punta and desserts to die for. Its lunchtime special – two mains for Ur$355, including cover charge – counts as a good deal by Punta’s extravagant standards.
Citrus ( 447-006; Rambla Artigas & Calle 11; mains Ur$375-750; 11:30am-5am) Stylish Citrus bases its appeal on big comfy armchairs, an incomparable second-floor view, and an intriguing fusion of Asian, French, Italian and Mexican flavors.
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SLEEPING
In summer (when reservations are mandatory), Punta is jammed with people, and prices are astronomical. In winter it’s a ghost town, and places that stay open lower their prices considerably.
Punta del Este Hostel ( 441-632; www.puntadelestehostel.com, in Spanish; Calle 25 544; dm from Ur$350) This centrally located hostel is one of the cheapest lodgings in Punta. It makes a good first impression, with a bright façade and a homey front sitting room (converted to a dorm in summer). Then there’s the dark side: the minuscule kitchen, the sullen staff (at least when we were there) and claustrophobic 11-bed dorm downstairs.
1949 Hostel ( 440-719; www.1949hostel.com, in English & Spanish; cnr Calles 30 & 18; dm Ur$350, d Ur$900) Punta’s best value, this ultra-cool hostel is a magnet for international youth, with hammocks out front, river views, surfboard rentals, breakfast till noon and a corner bar. Light sleepers beware: it can get pretty rowdy here.
Le Petit Hotel ( 441-412; www.petithotel-puntadeleste.com, in Spanish; Calle 9 717; d/tr/q from Ur$1650/2200/3000) This two-star hotel in one of Punta’s oldest buildings has recently been remodeled, with a pool, wi-fi, and other upgrades added. The newer rooms out back surround a grassy courtyard.
Hotel Bravamar ( 480-559; www.hotelespuntadeleste.com, in Spanish; Parada 2, Playa Brava; s/d/tr Ur$1300/1750/2300) One of the best deals on Playa Brava, the Bravamar has two rooms overlooking the beach…sort of. Unfortunately, the little red Astroturf terraces and intervening highway don’t do much to enhance the view!
Bonne Étoile ( 440-301; www.hotelbonneetoile.com, in Spanish; Calle 20 btwn Calles 23 & 25; s/d/tr Ur$1750/2000/2300) In a 1940s beach house adjoining a more modern six-story tower, Bonne Étoile has clean, spacious rooms, some with river views. The location between Av Gorlero and the port is hard to beat.
Palace Hotel ( 441-919; jdlpunta@hotmail.com; cnr Av Gorlero & Calle 11; s/d/tr/q Ur$2000/2100/2400/3300) Just one block up from the yacht harbor, the Palace has a palm-shaded central courtyard and a pretty, shared veranda overlooking Calle 11. Rooms are a bit dowdy, but it’s hard to argue with the location.
Hotel Tanger ( 441-333; www.hoteltanger.com, in Spanish; Calle 31 btwn Calles 18 & 20; d/tr/q Ur$2200/3600/4000) This recommended family-run hotel has ample, comfortable rooms with minibars, safes and wi-fi. The rooftop sundeck and swimming pool have good beach views.
La Posta del Cangrejo ( 770-021; www.lapostadelcangrejo.com; Ruta 10, La Barra; s/d from Ur$3300/4400, ste Ur$10,500) This beachside hotel in the heart of La Barra has whitewashed adobe walls, an award-winning French restaurant and a poolside terrace within earshot of the ocean. The upstairs suites are especially alluring, with fireplaces, Jacuzzis, large TVs and nice sound systems.
Las Cumbres ( 578-689; www.cumbres.com.uy, in Spanish; Ruta 12, km3.9, Laguna del Sauce; d Ur$3200-4700, ste Ur$6700-10,900) Near Punta Ballena, this understatedly luxurious hilltop paradise is eclectically decorated with treasures from the owners’ world travels. Rooms boast features like fireplaces and outdoor whirlpool tubs. Three-hour spa treatments cost Ur$1800, and the tearoom terrace (open to the public) has magnificent sunset views.