SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
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SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
When it comes to sports, only one thing really matters to most porteños – fútbol (aka soccer). Everyone has a team that they are loyal to until they die: if you go to a game, you’ll witness passion to the human core. Fútbol here is so much more than the infamous reputation of its most notorious figure, Diego Maradona, who now spends most of his time avoiding drug scandals (see the boxed text opposite).
Surprisingly enough, other spectator sports (and other sports stars) do exist in Buenos Aires. Basketball has gotten more popular since Argentina won Olympic gold at the 2004 summer games. Rugby attracted lots of attention in 2007, when it placed a very respectable third in the Rugby World Cup. Horse racing attracts gamblers to Palermo’s Hipódromo (racetrack), while polo and even pato (a kind of rugby on horseback) have their own modest followings.
Most porteños make an effort to look good, so many also participate in a variety of sports to help them along. Biking, tennis and fútbol are all popular activities in Buenos Aires, both for health and fun. And when the weather’s just right, the city’s green spaces fill with recreation-minded walkers and joggers. When the weather sucks, however, many turn to the city’s numerous indoor health clubs. Other, less traditional indoor physical activities, such as yoga and Pilates, are becoming more mainstream.
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SPECTATOR SPORTS
From fútbol and rugby to basketball and polo, watching sports is a great way for porteños to band together against rival teams and the world. Other than the sports mentioned here, boxing, field hockey, auto-racing and cricket also have their fans in BA.
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SOCCER
Fútbol is a national obsession, and witnessing a live game is an integral part of the Buenos Aires experience. This is no amateur league – Argentina’s national team won the World Cup in both 1978 and 1986 (one of only seven nations to have ever won the cup). The men’s team also walked away with gold at the 2004 summer Olympics. Keep your eye on rising star Lionel Messi, who scored an astounding goal against Getafe at Spain’s Copa del Rey in April 2007.
Argentines are avid fans of the sport, and on game day (and there are many) you’ll see TVs everywhere tuned to the soccer channel. Cheers erupt when goals are scored, and after a big win, cars sporting team flags go honking by – especially around the Obelisco.
Tickets for entradas populares (bleachers) cost around AR$14, while plateas (fixed seats) range from AR$25 to AR$60. Prices depend on the popularity of the game – the súper clásico between River and Boca can command rates three times that of normal. (By the way, this particular game – played at Boca’s stadium – has been named by the Observer as the number-one sporting event to attend before you kick the bucket.)
As a foreigner (especially a lone woman), you’d do well to buy a seat in the plateas; the populares section is a real experience, but can get far too rowdy with its ceaseless standing, singing, drinking, jumping, pot smoking, robbing and fighting. It’s also where the barra brava (the Argentine equivalent of football hooligans) sit.
Tickets are available at stadium box offices in the days before a game, or try www.ticketek.com.ar, which sells tickets to certain games. The most popular games sell out early. Some companies provide ticket, transportation and guide, such as Tangol (Map; 
4312-7276; www.tangol.com, in English & Spanish; Florida 971, suite 31). Expect to pay at least AR$150 all-up for these services.
Games are nearly always safe, but don’t carry anything to one that makes you stand out as a tourist. Keep cameras hidden, avoid wearing jewelry (even watches) and don’t carry more money than you’ll need that day. If it’s sunny, take sun protection. Avoid wearing the visiting team’s colors, and don’t plan on eating there unless you like really bad junk food.
For more information on Argentine fútbol, see www.futbolargentino.com.ar and www.afa.org.ar; both are in Spanish. The following are some of the clubs based in Buenos Aires:
- Estadio Argentinos Juniors (Map; 4551-6887; www.argentinosjuniors.com.ar, in Spanish; Punta Arenas 1271)
- Boca Juniors (Map; 4362-2260; www.boca-juniors.com.ar; La Bombonera, Brandsen 805)
- Club Atlético Vélez Sársfield (Map; 4641-5663; www.velezsarsfield.com.ar, in Spanish; Juan B Justo 9200)
- Club Deportivo Español (Map; 4637-6903; www.cde.com.ar, in Spanish; Santiago de Compostela 3801)
- Club Ferrocarril Oeste (Map; 4431-8282; www.ferrocarriloeste.org.ar, in Spanish; Avellaneda 1240)
- Club Huracán (Map; 4911-0757; www.club-huracan.com, in Spanish; Av Amancio Alcorta 2570)
- River Plate (Map; 4789-1200; www.cariverplate.com.ar, in Spanish; Av Figueroa Alcorta 7597)
- San Lorenzo de Almagro (Map; 4918-8192; www.sanlorenzo.com.ar, in Spanish; Varela 2680)
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BASKETBALL
The basketball scene in Buenos Aires has been picking up significantly since 2002, when Argentina’s men’s team played in the World Basketball Championship in Indianapolis. They only won silver, but made history by beating the US ‘Dream Team’ in international competition. Then, with a similar roster, they defeated the US squad again (along with Italy in the finals) to win gold in the 2004 summer Olympics – their first Olympic medal in basketball ever. No team had beaten the Americans in the Olympics since 1992, when pro basketball players were allowed to play. Argentina’s best players are Emanuel ‘Manu’ Ginobili, Fabricio Oberto, Andrés Nocioni, Luis Scola and Carlos Delfino, all of whom have played for or currently play in the NBA.
Today BA has several major squads, the most popular being Boca Juniors. You can watch them play in La Boca at Estadio Luis Conde (La Bombonerita; 4309-4748; www.bocajuniors.com.ar; Arzobispo Espinosa 600); tickets are cheap at AR$15 or less. Other popular basketball teams include Obras Sanitarias and Ferrocarril Oeste.
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RUGBY
Rugby is getting more popular by the year in Argentina, in part because the country’s national team – Los Pumas – are getting better and better. After placing third at the Rugby World Cup in 2007 (no mean feat), Los Pumas was rated the best rugby team in the Americas. However, they’ve never defeated the top two teams in the world, South Africa and New Zealand, keeping them just short of world-class status.
In Buenos Aires, the long-running Club Atlético de San Isidro (www.casi.org.ar, in Spanish) is the capital’s best rugby team; in 1935 it gave birth to its own biggest rival, the San Isidro Club (www.sanisidroclub.com.ar, in Spanish).
Rugby season runs from April to October; contact the Unión de Rugby de Buenos Aires ( 4805-5858; www.urba.org.ar, in Spanish) for current happenings. Fanatics can visit the Museo de Rugby ( 4732-2547; www.museodelrugby.com, in English & Spanish; Ituzaingó 608) in San Isidro; it’s located on the plaza behind the tourist office.
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HORSE RACING
The races in BA are held at the Hipódromo Argentino (Map; 4778-2800; www.palermo.com.ar, in Spanish; cnr Av del Libertador & Av Dorrego), a grand building designed by French architect Fauré Dujarric that dates from 1908 and holds up to 100,000 spectators. The track is usually open Monday and weekends, but race times vary so call ahead for exact times. The most important races take place in November, both here and at San Isidro’s famous grass racetrack.
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POLO
Add Argentina’s history of gauchos and horses to its past British influence, and you’ll understand why the best polo in the world is played right here. The country has dominated the sport for over 50 years, boasting most of polo’s top players. Forget those British princes: the world’s best player is considered to be the handsome Adolfo Cambiaso.
Matches take place in Buenos Aires from September to mid-November, culminating in the annual Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo (Argentine Open Polo Championship; ), the world’s most prestigious polo tournament. For current information, contact the Asociación Argentina de Polo ( 4777-6444; www.aapolo.com, in Spanish), which keeps a schedule of polo-related activities throughout the country.
CAMPO ARGENTINO DE POLO
cnr Av del Libertador & Av Dorrego
Just across from the Hipódromo Argentino in Palermo, this stadium holds up to 30,000 spectators and hosts polo’s most important events (including the Argentine Open Polo Championship). Occasional music concerts are also held here. However, the northern suburb of Pilar has the highest density of polo clubs.
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PATO
Of gaucho origins, the polo-like game of pato (literally ‘duck’) takes its name from the original game-ball – a dead duck encased in a leather bag. The unfortunate fowl has since been replaced by a ball with leather handles, and players no longer face serious injury in what was once a very violent sport.
For information on pato matches and tournaments, which usually take place outside the city, contact the Federación Argentina de Pato ( 4331-0222; www.fedpato.com.ar, in Spanish). The national championships Click here occur in December, and are more centrally located in Palermo’s polo grounds.
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ACTIVITIES
Buenos Aires is a big concrete city, so you’ll have to seek out the outdoor spots in which to work out. Extensive greenery in Palermo provides good areas for recreation, especially on weekends when the ring road around the rose garden is closed to motor vehicles. Recoleta also has grassy parks, but try to avoid the dog piles. Best of all is the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, an ecological paradise just east of Puerto Madero that might just make you forget you’re in a big city; it’s excellent for walks, runs, leisurely bike rides and even a bit of wildlife viewing.
An interesting sports complex for those seeking outdoor activities is Perú Beach ( 4793-5986; www.peru-beach.com.ar; Elcano 794; 
9am-10pm). Short soccer fields, a covered roller rink, a freestanding climbing wall and water sports such as kite-surfing bring in the crowds. There’s also a grassy lawn and outdoor tables for refreshments – great on a sunny day. It’s more of a social scene than anything else, and families are welcome. Perú Beach is located in Acassuso, a suburb way north of Buenos Aires’ center, just across from the Tren de la Costa’s Barrancas station. (For transport information, Click here.)
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CYCLING
Outside its traffic-clogged streets (suicide for many cyclists), the capital has some pleasant green spaces in which to spin your wheels. Bike paths run along some roads in Parque 3 de Febrero (pp92–3), where bicycle rentals are available in good weather on weekends in winter and daily in summer; look for rental companies along Av de la Infanta Isabel near Av Libertador. Four-wheeled pedal carts and in-line skates can also be rented here. Weekends are an especially nice time, since the lake ring road is closed to motor vehicles.
For safe family cycling, head to Nuevo Circuito KDT in Palermo’s Parque General Belgrano (Map; 4807-7700; Salguero 3450; entry AR$2). Here, Sprint Haupt ( 4807-6141; Salguero 3450; bike rental per hr AR$8; 9am-8pm Tue-Sun) rents bicycles for use around a plain, 1200m-long concrete bike path (bring your passport). Nearby there’s a rather run-down banked velodrome, but you’ll have to bring your own specialized bicycle. They’re both under the overpass and over the pedestrian bridge.
The Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (Map; sunrise-sunset), on the eastern side of Puerto Madero along the coast, is green and tranquil and has some flat dirt roads that are great to bike on. Cheap bicycle rentals are available in good weather on weekends in winter and daily in summer, just outside the entrance.
For information on cycling tours, Click here.
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SWIMMING
Some upscale hotels have decent-sized pools, but they charge hefty prices for non-guests. This generally includes gym use, at least. Try the Panamericano Hotel & Resort (p180; day rate AR$100), the Hilton (p184; day rate AR$125) or the Claridge Hotel (p180; day rate AR$100).
A more economical option is to find a health club with indoor pool (see right). Other-wise, head to one of the following sports clubs.
CLUB DE AMIGOS
4801-1213; www.clubdeamigos.org.ar, in Spanish; Av Figueroa Alcorta 3885; day rates AR$10-15, outdoor pool use AR$19; outdoor pool Dec-Feb
Has indoor and outdoor pools, as well as several water-related activities on the docket. Call for open swim times.
PUNTA CARRASCO
4807-1010; www.puntacarrasco.com.ar, in Spanish; cnr Av Costanera R Obligado & Sarmiento; outdoor pool Dec-Mar
Has three nice outdoor pools near the Río de la Plata, but they may or may not be open during your trip. Give them a ring to double check.
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GOLF
BA’s most convenient course is the 18-hole Campo Municipal de Golf (Map; 4772-7261; Tornquist 1426; sunrise-sunset Tue-Sun); reserve your spot in advance. Practice your long shots at the Costa Salguero Driving Range (Map; 4805-4732; Avs Costanera R Obligado & Salguero; from 8am), which also has a golf store, café and a nine-hole, family-friendly course.
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TENNIS
Besides the locations listed below, the Club de Amigos (above) also has tennis courts for hire for an extra AR$35 to AR$42.
PARQUE GENERAL BELGRANO
4807-7879; Salguero 3450; entry AR$2, court hire per hr AR$12-14; 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun
Has eight clay courts. Floodlights at night cost extra. You’ll need your own equipment; call 48 hours in advance to reserve.
PUNTA CARRASCO
4807-1010; www.puntacarrasco.com.ar, in Spanish; cnr Av Costanera R Obligado & Sarmiento; per hr AR$15-35; 8am-midnight
Both cement and clay tennis courts are available here. Facilities are good. Rates depend on the court and day. You can buy balls here, and rackets are occasionally available to rent – but don’t count on it.
SALGUERO TENIS
4805-5144; Salguero 3350; per hr AR$35-42; 8am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun
Near Paseo Alcorta shopping mall, interestingly located between railroad tracks but with five decent courts. Rents rackets and sells balls; squash courts also available.
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HEALTH & FITNESS
BA has a good range of indoor gyms, many with modern equipment and pluses like indoor pools and spas. The yoga and Pilates movements have also become increasingly popular, with most gyms and even some cultural centers and health restaurants offering classes. Spa services are good, especially at international hotels that cater especially to foreigners.
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GYMS
If you’ve never been to a gym in BA, on the first day you might be asked for a medical form from your doctor (so it’s best to bring one just in case).
LE PARC
4311-9191; www.leparc.com, in Spanish; San Martín 645; day rate AR$30; 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat
Good, modern machines are centered around an open floor plan connected by catwalks and topped with a glass ceiling. There’s a small indoor pool, a trendy café, a sports shop and a sauna; many classes are available. The sunny terrace is perfect for showing off your chiseled body. Indoor soccer and squash cost extra.
MEGATLON
4322-7884; www.megatlon.com, in Spanish; Reconquista 335; day/week/month rates from AR$50/100/200; 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat
The king of BA’s gyms has around 15 branches throughout the city, including another one in Barrio Norte (Map; Rodriguez Peña 1062); the Reconquista branch is conveniently located right in the center. Expect most or all gym services, including weights, aerobic machines, a sports and supplements shop, and a wide variety of classes and athletic courts for basketball, volleyball, handball and soccer. Some branches have an indoor pool.
SPORT CLUB
5199-1212; www.sportclub.com.ar, in Spanish; Bartolomé Mitre 1625; day rate AR$25; 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat
Great for muscle-popping weights and modern aerobic machines; exercising areas are spacious, and the rooftop sundeck is perfect for working on your tan. There are plenty of classes, including cycling workouts, an indoor lap pool and a café. Sport Club has around 20 locations in BA; some also have volleyball, basketball and soccer facilities.
YMCA
4311-4785; www.ymca.org.ar, in Spanish; Reconquista 439; day rate AR$20; 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat
Not very fancy, but not too expensive, either – and if you’re a YMCA member from abroad just bring your card for a free month’s membership. Expect typical weight and aerobic machines, plenty of classes and two pools (including one for the kiddies). Other services include massage and a sauna.
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YOGA & PILATES
Nearly all gyms offer yoga and Pilates classes, but there are several specialty centers for each of these as well. Many cultural centers Click here have affordable yoga, and the South American Explorers sometimes offer classes in English. Health-oriented restaurants like Arte Sano and Natural Deli (Click here) also offer yoga, sometimes with tai chi and meditation, too. Rates can vary widely, so call ahead to find out.
CENTRO VALLETIERRA
4833-6724; www.valletierra.com, in English & Spanish; Costa Rica 4562
This slick new Palermo Viejo studio offers a variety of yoga classes, including Hatha, Kri and Ashtanga; some sessions are in English. There are also meditation, tai chi, personal defense, kung fu and qigong classes. Facilities are beautiful and Zenlike. Call for class hours.
PARA BIEN PILATES
4315-1077; www.parabien.com.ar, in Spanish; San Martín 1009, suite1A; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri
Conveniently located right downtown, this small studio is a bit tight on space – which makes everything very intimate and personal. Four 50-minute classes with machines cost AR$115. Other than Pilates, there are basic spa services like massage, facials, manicures and hair removal.
TAMARA DI TELLA PILATES
4813-1216; www.tamaraditella.com; cnr Juncal & R Peña; 4 classes AR$117; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat
This well-known ‘Pilates Queen’ has over a dozen branches throughout Buenos Aires and other major cities in Argentina. Facilities are modern and private instructors are also available. Ask about their ‘tangolates’ sessions.
VIDA NATURAL
4826-1695; www.yogacentro.com.ar, in Spanish; Charcas 2852; 4 classes AR$95; 8:30am-1:30pm & 2:30pm-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat
This naturalistic center, located in a beautiful old house with wood floors, offers Ashtanga, Hatha and Iyengar yoga. Therapeutic massage, meditation, Pilates, tai chi and harmonizing Tibetan bowls are also available.
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MARTIAL ARTS & CLIMBING
Centro Valletierra (left) also has a few martial arts classes. If you feel like climbing outdoors (but not on real rock – that’s a bit far away), check out Perú Beach. It has a wall, but it’s geared more towards a family and social crowd than climbers.
BOULDER
4779-2825; Arce 730; day rate AR$10, harness rental AR$3; 3-11pm Tue-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun
Located in Palermo’s Las Cañitas area, Boulder is a small climbing gym with a tiny cave. Classes are available, along with trips to surrounding BA and even further afield, like Mendoza or Bariloche. The day rate includes shoe rental; a downstairs store sells new equipment. And the mate tea is free.
KURATA DOJO
4774-4409; www.kuratadojo.org.ar, in Spanish; JSM de Oro 2254; 6pm-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-1pm Sat
This good Aikido school in Palermo Viejo was started by a Japanese sensei (teacher). You don’t need any experience to start with, and people of any age can train in Aikido. Costs depend on how many classes you attend per week.
YMCA
4311-4785; www.ymca.org.ar, in Spanish; Reconquista 439
Those looking to karate their way through Buenos Aires can check out the YMCA. There are also classes in kickboxing and Muay Thai; costs and hours vary so call ahead.
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DAY SPAS
There’s nothing quite like pampering yourself at a spa after a hard day’s sightseeing. Luckily enough, BA has a few good ones to choose from. Prices and services can vary widely, so ask beforehand.
Some of the best day spas in town are at fine hotels such as the Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt, Four Seasons Buenos Aires and Home Hotel (Map; 4778-1008; Honduras 5860).
AQUA VITA SPA
4812-5989; www.aquavitamedicalspa.com, in English & Spanish; Arenales 1965; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat
A small, futuristically lit spa in Recoleta, Aqua Vita’s services include facials, exfoliation treatments, sauna, hydro massage and body wraps. If you’re brave go for the facial shiatsu, deep-tissue massage or hot-stone therapy. Plenty of packages are available.
EVIAN SPA
4807-4688; www.aguaclubspa.com, in Spanish; Cerviño 3626; 7:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat
Services at this Palermo spa include Thai massage, reflexology sessions and skin treatments. For something different consider the mate body scrub, or get covered with black sugar instead. Other services include yoga, Pilates, salsa classes and a small gym; there’s also a great rooftop area in which to relax.
ESPACIO OXIVITAL
4775-0010; www.oxivital.com.ar, in English & Spanish; Aguirre 864; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat
Oddly located on a street with many outlet shops, so you can pick up some deals before or after your facial, pedicure, massage and sauna session. Also does pore extractions, which not many spas here do. There’s a hair salon on site, and a pretty garden in back.
SPA DE PIEL
4821-0230; www.spadepiel.com.ar, in English & Spanish; Ayacucho 1250; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat
This upscale Barrio Norte spa features fancy machines, a fine product line and a hair salon as well as all the regular services like cellulite treatments, dermabrasion and body peels. Bizarre offerings include facial masks using chocolate, Patagonian algae, caviar, copper and gold; ask if you can eat or keep them afterwards.