Parathas with Ajowan Seeds & Red Chilli Flakes
Parathas Stuffed with Spiced Cauliflower
Marwari Layered Griddle Breads
Rice Flour & Flattened Rice Pancakes
Chickpea Flour & Tomato Pancakes
Whole Mung Bean Pancakes with Egg
Whole Mung Bean Pancakes with Shallots & Peppers
Thin Rice Noodles with Lemon & Peas
Thin Rice Noodles with Mushrooms & Tomatoes
Chapatis are the simplest of flatbreads. The name ‘chapati’ probably comes from the same source as the word chapat, which means ‘to slap’. There is much slapping done as chapatis are made, and it is probable that initially the chapatis were not rolled out at all but slapped into shape. This is still done in many Indian villages.
Chapatis are made with finely ground wholemeal flour and eaten over a great area of north India. They can be thick or thin, small or large, depending upon who is making them. In villages they tend to be large and thick, and are often called ‘roti’. Most people in little towns and big cities seem to like them small and very thin. This delicate version of the chapati is also known as ‘phulka’.
I have been making my chapatis the same way for the last 60 years. It is the way they were made at our home in Delhi when I was growing up. But this year I happened to travel to Mysore, where a lady I met, Zubaida Vagh, told me that she had worked out a no-fail way to make chapatis. It did not involve any gadgets, such as chapati/tortilla presses – the chapatis were still rolled out by hand – but the dough did have a tiny bit of oil in it. The difference lay mainly in the timing after the chapati is slapped on to the tava or cast-iron griddle. I have used this new method here. My directions may be long but the process is quite fast and simple. A chapati cooks in a little over a minute.
Chapati flour is very finely ground. It is best to buy it from an Indian grocery, where it is also called ‘ata’ (pronounced ‘ah-ta’), with many variations in the spelling, including ‘atta’. You can put butter or ghee on the top of each chapati as soon as it is made, if you like.
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
1 teaspoon olive or peanut oil
Put the flour into a large bowl. Dribble in the oil and rub it into the flour until you have a breadcrumb-like texture. Slowly add water – you will need about 120 ml/4 fl oz water or a little bit less – mixing it to form a soft dough. Shape it into a ball and knead for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Form into a smooth ball, cover with a damp cloth and set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes, then divide into 6 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Set a medium cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium heat. Have a small wad of cloth handy, as well as a plate lined with a tea towel to put the chapatis in as they get made.
Dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 15 cm/6 inches in diameter. Lay it on one palm and then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour. Now slap the chapati on to the hot pan for just 5 seconds. Using a fine-edged spatula, turn it over and leave for about 30 seconds, or until the bottom has a few, nice brown spots. Flip the chapati again, this time pressing down on it with the wadded cloth, and turning it slightly with each press. These will be quick motions – press and turn slightly, press and turn, and so on – lasting only about another 30 seconds. The chapati should puff up, but even if it does not, it will be delicious. Put the chapati on one half of the tea towel and cover with the other half.
Make all chapatis this way, turning the heat down to medium-low when you are doing the rolling, and turning it up again when you are almost ready to slap it on to the pan.
Chapatis
Parathas are much richer than chapatis, so tend not to be eaten on a daily basis. They are not only layered with butter, oil or ghee, but also cooked in it, like pancakes. However, like pancakes, they are utterly delicious, and one does need to succumb to them every now and then. They can be eaten at breakfast with pickles, chutneys and relishes, or served at any meal with dals and vegetable dishes.
Parathas can be made plain, as in this recipe, or they can be stuffed with spiced potatoes, cauliflower, radishes and even eggs. Some recipes for these follow. In the Delhi tradition, these parathas are triangular and made with wholemeal chapati flour, also sold by Indian grocers as ata (see here for more about this flour.)
MAKES 6
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
⅓ teaspoon salt
3–4 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, melted butter or ghee (clarified butter)
Put the flour and salt into a large bowl. Dribble in 2 teaspoons of the oil, butter or ghee and rub it into the flour until it has a breadcrumb-like mixture. Slowly add about 120 ml/4 fl oz water, working it into the flour. You are aiming for a ball of soft dough, so you might not need all the water. Once the ball is formed, knead it for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes, then divide into 6 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Set a medium cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium-low heat.
Meanwhile, dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 15 cm/6 inches in diameter. Brush it with about ½ teaspoon of the oil, butter or ghee and fold it in half. Brush again with ¼ teaspoon of oil, butter or ghee and fold in half again. Dusting with flour as needed, roll the triangle into a larger triangle, about 15 cm/6 inches on each side. Lay it on one palm with your fingers spread out, then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour.
Put 1 teaspoon of oil in the hot pan and slap the paratha right in the centre. Dribble ½ teaspoon oil over it and cook for 45–60 seconds, until the paratha has golden brown spots on the underside. Using a fine-edged spatula, turn it over and cook for another 45–60 seconds, until the second side has a few, nice brown spots too. Flip the paratha again, leave for 10 seconds, then flip again and leave for another 10 seconds. It should now be done – crisp on the outside and soft and layered inside. Transfer to a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the parathas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, and then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in.
Plain Delhi Parathas Dilli kay Tikaunay Parathay
This is very similar to the previous recipe, except that this paratha is a bit larger and stuffed with spiced eggs. I love it for breakfast with Simple Yoghurt Dipping Sauce (see here), and a cup of hot tea.
MAKES 4
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
salt
3–4 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, melted butter or ghee (clarified butter)
4 eggs
2–4 fresh hot green chillies, finely chopped
3 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped shallots
4 cherry tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
freshly ground black pepper
4 generous pinches of garam masala
Put the flour and ⅓ teaspoon of salt into a large bowl. Dribble in 2 teaspoons of the oil, butter or ghee and rub it into the flour until it has a breadcrumb-like texture. Slowly add about 120 ml/4 fl oz water, working it into the flour. You are aiming for a ball of soft dough, so might not need all the water. Once the ball is formed, knead it for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes and divide into 4 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Break the eggs into 4 separate bowls and beat each one lightly. Put a quarter of the chillies, shallots, tomatoes and coriander into each bowl. Add some salt, pepper and garam masala and mix well.
Set a medium cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium-low heat.
Meanwhile, dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 18 cm/7 inches in diameter. Brush it with about ½ teaspoon of the oil, butter or ghee and fold it in half. Brush again with ¼ teaspoon of oil, butter or ghee and fold in half again. Dusting with flour as needed, roll the triangle into a larger triangle, about 18 cm/7 inches on each side. Lay it on one palm with your fingers spread out, then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour.
Put 1 teaspoon of oil in the hot pan and slap the paratha right in the centre. Dribble ½ teaspoon of oil over it and cook for 45–60 seconds, until the paratha has golden brown spots on the underside. Using a fine-edged spatula, turn it over and cook for another 30 seconds. Now lift the top flap of the paratha and pour 1 bowlful of egg mixture inside. It may not all fit, so keep the flap open and fold or scrape in the rest of the egg. Flip the paratha and leave for 20 seconds, then flip again and leave for 10 seconds. It should now be done. Transfer to a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the parathas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, and then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in.
Follow the recipe for Plain Delhi Parathas (see here), but with the following difference.
MAKES 6
pinch of ajowan seeds
dash of red chilli flakes
When you have rolled a paratha into a 15 cm/6 inch circle and brushed it with ½ teaspoon of oil, butter or ghee, sprinkle with the ajowan seeds and chilli flakes before folding the circle in half. Ajowan or ajwain seeds have a thyme-like taste and smell, so you can use fresh thyme leaves – about ½ teaspoon for each paratha – if you prefer.
Great in the school lunchbox or as travel food, these parathas are also amongst my favourite Sunday breakfast dishes. All I need with them is Simple Yoghurt Dipping Sauce (see here) and some hot tea.
When grating the cauliflower, use the largest hole in the grater and grate just the florets, not the stems. Any bigger pieces that break and fall in can be finely chopped by hand.
MAKES 6
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
salt
8 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, melted butter or ghee (clarified butter)
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped shallot or onion
180 g/6 oz grated cauliflower (see introduction here)
1–2 fresh hot green chillies, finely chopped
2.5 cm/1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
about 1 teaspoon garam masala
about ¼ teaspoon nice red chilli powder
Put the flour and ½ teaspoon salt into a large bowl. Dribble in 2 teaspoons of the oil, melted butter or ghee and rub it into the flour until it has a breadcrumb-like texture. Slowly add about 120 ml/4 fl oz water, working it into the flour. You are aiming for a ball of soft dough, so you might not need all the water. Once the ball is formed, knead it for 10 minutes or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the stuffing, by combining the shallot, cauliflower, green chillies and ginger in a bowl and mixing them together.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes and divide into 6 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Set a cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium heat.
Meanwhile, dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 14 cm/5½ inches in diameter. Brush it with about 1 teaspoon of the oil, butter or ghee. Put 2 heaped tablespoons of the cauliflower mixture in the centre and sprinkle with a little salt, garam masala and chilli powder. Make folds all around the edges to form a pouch. Pinch the folds together and give the top a twist for good measure. Dusting with flour as needed, and with the twisted side down, roll out the pouch until it is 14 cm/5½ inches in diameter. Lay the paratha on one palm and then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour.
Put 1 teaspoon of oil in the hot pan and slap the paratha, folds side down, right in the centre. Dribble ½ teaspoon of oil over it, then press down with your spatula and cook for about 1 minute, until the paratha has golden brown spots on the underside. Turn it over, pressing down on it again, and leave for another minute or more or until the second side has a few nice brown spots too. Some of the cauliflower might get exposed but that often happens. Flip the paratha again, this time for 5 seconds, and then again for another 5 seconds. It should now be done. Transfer to a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the parathas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, and then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in.
This paratha is layered in rings.
MAKES 6
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
⅓ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
about 6 tablespoons ghee (clarified butter) or olive or peanut oil
about 120 ml/4 fl oz warm milk, use only as much is needed to make a soft dough
Put the flour, salt and sugar into a large bowl. Dribble in 1 teaspoon of the ghee or oil and rub it into the flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. Slowly add the milk, mixing it in and gathering the flour into a ball. You are aiming for soft dough, so you might not need all the milk. Once the dough is formed, knead it for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes and divide into equal 6 balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Set a medium cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium-low heat.
Meanwhile, dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 17 cm/6½ inches in diameter. Brush it with about ½ teaspoon of the ghee or oil, then dust it lightly with flour. Now pleat it tightly towards you, making 1 cm/½ inch folds, as if making a fan. Stand the pleated paratha on its long edge and roll into a tight pinwheel, tucking the end in firmly. Flatten the pinwheel, dust with flour as needed, and roll into a circle about 17 cm/6½ inches in diameter. Lay it on one palm with your fingers spread out, then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour.
Put 1 teaspoon of the ghee or oil in the hot pan and slap the paratha right in the centre. Dribble ½ teaspoon of oil over it and cook for 35–45 seconds, or until the paratha has golden brown spots on the underside. Using a fine-edged spatula, turn it over and cook for another 35–45 seconds, or until the second side has a few nice brown spots too. Flip the paratha again, this time for 10 seconds, and then again for another 10 seconds. It should now be done, crisp on the outside and soft and layered inside. Transfer to a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the parathas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, and then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in.
Very easy to make, this is really a layered paratha, only the layers are circular. I like to serve it with Potatoes Cooked in a Banarasi Style or Marwari Style (see here or here), Cauliflower with Peas (see here), any simple dal and a yoghurt relish. It is also a wonderful bread to take out on picnics, carry on train journeys, and put into lunchboxes, as Indians often do. All you need to add is a vegetable dish and an Indian relish.
Marwaris (see here for more about this community) tend to make this bread with ghee, but you can use oil if you prefer. I do.
MAKES 6
85 g/3 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
⅓ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
1 or 2 generous pinches of nice red chilli powder
pinch of nigella seeds (kalonji, optional)
pinch of ajowan seeds (optional)
about 6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter)
Put the flour into a large bowl. Add the salt, cumin, chilli powder and nigella and ajowan seeds (if using). Dribble in 1 teaspoon of the oil or ghee and rub it into the flour until it has a breadcrumb-like texture. Slowly add about 120 ml/4 fl oz water, working it into the flour. You are aiming for a ball of soft dough, so you might not need all the water. Once the ball is formed, knead it for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes.
Knead the dough again for a few minutes and divide into 6 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Set a medium cast-iron frying pan or tava over a medium-low heat.
Meanwhile, dust your work surface with flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have an even circle about 17 cm/6½ inches in diameter. Brush it with about ½ teaspoon of the oil or ghee, then roll it tightly inwards, forming a snake. Now roll the snake into a tight pinwheel, tucking in the end firmly. Dusting with flour as needed, roll out the pinwheel into a circle about 17 cm/6½ inches in diameter. Lay it on one palm with your fingers spread out, then slap it on to the other palm to get rid of the excess flour.
Put 1 teaspoon of oil in the hot pan and slap the bread right in the centre. Dribble ½ teaspoon of oil over it and cook for 35–45 seconds, or until the bread has golden brown spots on the underside. Using a fine-edged spatula, turn it over and cook for another 35–45 seconds, or until the second side has a few nice brown spots too. Flip the bread again, this time for 10 seconds, then again for another 10 seconds. It should now be done, crisp on the outside and soft and layered inside. Transfer to a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the parathas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, and then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in.
These very popular breads are reserved for special occasions – festivals, weddings, picnics, train journeys and even Sunday breakfasts! They are generally eaten with potatoes and other vegetables, just as chapatis might be. As they are rich (traditionalists cook them in pure ghee), they are not eaten every day. Using full-fat milk rather than water to make the dough keeps them nice and pliable, especially if you are taking them to work or school, or are travelling with them.
These breads are always deep-fried in an Indian karhai, which most resembles a wok, but is a bit deeper. It uses oil in the most economical manner, but you can use a wok or a deep, frying pan instead.
MAKES 12
180 g/6 oz chapati flour, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil, plus more for deep-frying
Put the flour and salt into a bowl and mix lightly. Dribble in the oil and rub it into the flour evenly. Slowly add about 120 ml/4 fl oz water (or milk), working it into the flour. You are aiming for a soft dough, so you might not need all the liquid. Once the dough is formed, knead it for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Shape it into a ball, oil or otherwise grease it and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside for 30–60 minutes. You could even refrigerate it and hold it longer.
Shortly before you are ready to eat, pour a 4 cm/1½ inch depth of oil into a karhai, wok or frying pan and set it over a medium heat.
Meanwhile, knead the dough again and divide into 12 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover them with a damp cloth.
Dust the work surface very lightly with the flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have 14 cm/5½ inch circle. When the oil is very hot, carefully lay the poori on the surface of the oil. It may sink to the bottom, but will rise immediately and start to sizzle. Using the back of a slotted spoon, push the poori gently into the oil with tiny, swift strokes. In just seconds it should puff up. Turn it over and cook the second side for a few seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a platter lined with kitchen paper.
Make all the pooris in the same way and serve them hot. If you wish to serve them later, stack them and keep them covered. When cool, place in an airtight tin or ziplock bag.
If you have ever eaten the ‘fried dough’ served by Native Americans, you will find this very similar. Bhaturas are a lot like pooris (see here), except that the leavening makes their texture a bit spongier. They are a speciality of the Punjab, where they are often served with chickpea dishes. Add a Tomato, Onion & Cucumber Koshambari (see here) and a yoghurt relish, and you have a fine lunch in front of you. I also love bhaturas with cauliflower and potato dishes.
Ideally, they should be eaten hot, as soon as they are made. If you cannot do that, line a plate with kitchen paper, stack the bhaturas one on top of the other as they are made and keep covered all the time by another upturned plate.
If you have children waiting impatiently as you are preparing dinner, give them a small piece of a bhatura dusted with a little caster sugar. It will bring smiles.
MAKES 8
200 g/7 oz plain flour, plus extra for dusting
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon olive or peanut oil, plus extra for deep-frying
6 tablespoons natural yoghurt
Put the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda, sugar and salt into a large wide bowl and mix lightly with your fingers. Add the teaspoon of oil and all the yoghurt. Mix until the dough is crumbly but still loose. Add about 2½ tablespoons of water and gather the dough together to make a smooth ball. Knead for a few minutes. Wash your hands, then put a little oil on them and rub it on the ball. Knead for another 8–10 minutes, until smooth. Rub a little more oil on the ball and slip it into a plastic bag. Set aside 40–60 minutes, or longer if you wish.
Shortly before you are ready to eat, pour a 4 cm/1½ inch depth of oil into a karhai, wok or frying pan and set it over a medium heat.
Meanwhile, knead the dough again and divide into 8 equal balls. Flatten them slightly between your palms and cover with a damp cloth.
Dust the work surface very lightly with the flour. Take one of the flattened balls, keeping the rest covered, and roll it out, flipping it over a few times and dusting it with flour whenever needed, until you have 13 cm/5 inch circle. When the oil is very hot, carefully lay it on the surface of the oil. It may sink to the bottom, but will rise immediately and start to sizzle. Using the back of a slotted spoon, push the bhatura gently into the oil with tiny, swift strokes. In just seconds it should puff up. Turn it over and cook the second side for a few seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a platter lined with kitchen paper.
Make all the bhaturas in the same way, taking the pan off the heat if it gets too hot as you do your rolling out, then putting it back a little before you slap the next bread in. Serve the bhaturas hot. If you wish to serve them later, stack them and keep them covered. When cool, place in an airtight tin or ziplock bag.
These pancakes are soft, satiny and filled with tiny depressions. They are very similar to crêpes, but spongier and much easier to prepare. Excellent in their savoury form with a Potato & Onion Mélange (see here) stuffed inside them, they are just as good served as a dessert in their sweet form (see here). They may also be served plain for breakfast, with chutneys and a yoghurt relish. If you are going to stuff them, you do not need to add any seasoning other than the salt.
MAKES 12
120 ml/4 fl oz natural yoghurt
180 g/6 oz sooji (see here)
70 g/2½ oz rice flour (also called powdered rice)
2 tablespoons plain flour
1 teaspoon salt
about 4 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander (optional)
1 fresh hot green chilli, finely chopped (optional)
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds (optional)
Empty the yoghurt into a bowl. Using a fork or whisk, beat it lightly until smooth and creamy. Slowly add 600 ml/1 pint water, mixing it well as you go.
Put the sooji, rice flour, plain flour and salt in a separate and larger bowl. Slowly add the yoghurt-water combination, mixing it in until everything is thoroughly blended and there are no lumps. Set aside for at least 1 hour. A little longer is fine too.
When you’re ready to cook, put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Set a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add 1 teaspoon of oil. Meanwhile, add the coriander, chilli and cumin seeds to the batter and stir well. Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time. Take a ladleful of the batter and pour it slowly into the pan, letting it expand into a circle about 15 cm/6 inches in diameter. This batter is very forgiving, so you can fill up any holes and round off the pancake to get the shape you want. Let it cook for a minute or so, until golden-red on the underside. Flip the pancake over and cook for another minute or so, until the second side is golden-red as well.
If you are serving the pancake plain and unstuffed, lift it with a spatula and slide it on to a plate. It is best eaten fresh.
If you are stuffing the pancake, flip it on to a plate, lay the stuffing on it slightly to one side, and roll it up like a ‘wrap’.
Make only as many pancakes as you need, remembering to stir the batter thoroughly each time. The batter can be stored in the refrigerator for several days.
I love all Indian savoury pancakes that can be included in the general category known as ‘dosas’. And I am always looking for dosas that do not need fermentation, as they are far easier to make. Here is just such a dosa. It is made mainly with rice flour and can be eaten as a snack with chutneys, pickles and swigs of hot tea, of course, or like a chapati as part of a meal.
These dosas are made rather like crêpes. It is best to eat them as soon as they are made. Each takes less than 2 minutes to cook, so make a stack and then sit down to eat.
MAKES 7–8 SMALL DOSAS
140 g/5 oz rice flour (also called powdered rice)
120 ml/4 fl oz natural yoghurt
2 tablespoons flattened rice/thick poha (see here)
½ teaspoon salt
pinch of ground asafoetida
1 teaspoon peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
coarsely ground black pepper
1–2 very finely chopped fresh green chillies (such as bird’s eye)
2–3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
about 1 tablespoon olive or peanut oil
Put the rice flour in a bowl and add the yoghurt, poha, salt, asafoetida and 175 ml/6 fl oz water. Mix well, then set aside for 15 minutes. Pour the mixture into a blender and whiz until smooth. Pour it back into a clean, dry bowl and add the ginger, black pepper, chillies and coriander. Mix, cover and set aside for 2 hours.
When you’re ready to cook, check your batter. It should be a flowing, creamy mixture, rather like the one for crêpes. I usually need to add another tablespoon of water to it at this stage to thin it out a bit. Mix well.
Line two large plates with kitchen paper and place them near you. Pour the oil into a small bowl, stick a teaspoon in it and set that nearby too. Place a 15 cm/6 inch non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and brush it with a little oil. Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time. When the pan is hot, dip your ladle into the batter, stir it round and pick up the measured amount. Pour the batter in the centre of the frying pan, quickly tilting it to make the batter flow to the edges. Let the dosa sit there for 45–60 seconds, until the top is set. Little bubbles may appear and the underside should get nice reddish spots. Pour a few drops of oil over it and around the edges, then turn and cook the second side for another 45 seconds. Using a spatula, transfer it to a prepared plate and cover with the other prepared plate.
Make all the dosas in the same way, stacking them on top of each other between the paper-lined plates. Serve immediately.
Eaten for breakfast or as a snack food, these are served with chutneys and pickles. You can also wrap them around any vegetable dish of your choice and serve them at lunch with a salad.
MAKES 8
120 ml/4 fl oz natural yoghurt
140 g/5 oz rice flour (also called powdered rice)
½ teaspoon salt
1–2 fresh hot green chillies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped shallot
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander
about 3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
Empty the yoghurt into a bowl. Using a fork or whisk, beat it lightly until smooth and creamy. Slowly add 350 ml/12 fl oz water, mixing it well as you go.
Put the rice flour and salt in a separate and larger bowl. Slowly add the yoghurt-water combination, mixing it in until everything is thoroughly blended and there are no lumps. Add the chillies, shallot and coriander and stir well. Set aside for 1–2 hours. A little longer is fine too.
When you’re ready to cook, put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Set a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add 1 teaspoon oil. Meanwhile, add the coriander, chilli and cumin seeds to the batter and stir well. Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time. Take a ladleful of the batter and pour it slowly into the pan, letting it expand into a circle about 15 cm/6 inches in diameter. This batter is very forgiving so you can fill up any holes and round off the pancake to get the shape you want. Let it cook for about 2 minutes, or until the underside is golden red. Flip it over and cook the other side for another 2 minutes or so, until it is golden-red as well. Pick up the pancake with a spatula and slide it on to a plate. You can fold it in half and then into quarters if you wish. Keep covered as you make the other pancakes in the same way, remembering to stir the batter thoroughly each time.
Make only as many pancakes as you need. The batter can be stored in the refrigerator for several days.
Rice Flour Pancakes Rice Flour Dosas
These pancakes are similar to crêpes except that they are made with wholemeal flour, well spiced and eggless. Very popular in Maharashtra and along India’s west coast, they are generally eaten for breakfast with chutneys, yoghurt relishes and pickles. They can also be served at lunch or dinner as flatbreads.
The pancakes are best served fresh, as soon as they are made, when they are both crisp and flexible. If you cannot manage that, stack them one on top of the other on a plate as you make them and keep them well covered with a second overturned plate. To freeze them, slip a layer of baking parchment or waxed paper between each pancake, allowing more of the paper for the top and the bottom, and let them cool completely. Slide the whole bundle into a ziplock bag and freeze flat. Defrost before reheating, then slap the pancakes, one at a time, on to a hot cast-iron griddle or frying pan, giving each a few seconds on both sides until nice and hot.
MAKES 7
85 g/3 oz chapati flour or ordinary wholemeal flour
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon nice red chilli powder
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ medium tomato, finely diced
4 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped onion
1 fresh hot green chilli, finely chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
about 3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil or ghee (clarified butter)
Put the flour, salt, chilli powder and ground coriander into a bowl. Slowly add about 250 ml/8 fl oz water, mixing with a wooden spoon and breaking up lumps as you go, until you have a thinnish, smooth batter. Alternatively, whiz the ingredients in a blender, putting the water in first, then the flour and ground seasonings. Transfer to a bowl. Set the batter aside for 2 hours. Add all the other ingredients except the oil and stir to mix.
When you’re ready to cook, put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Place a 15 cm/6 inch non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add ½ teaspoon of oil. (The pan I use is 18 cm/7 inches at the widest part of the diameter, but narrows at the bottom.) Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time. When hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful of it into the centre of the pan. Tilt the pan quickly in all directions until the mixture reaches the edges. Any holes may be quickly filled in with a little bit of extra batter. Cook for about 2 minutes, dribbling another ½ teaspoon oil over the top of the pancake. Peek underneath to see if the pancake has turned golden-red. Slide a fine-edged spatula all the way under the pancake to loosen it and flip it over. Cook the second side for another 1½–2 minutes, pressing down in the centre with the back of a spatula. This side should have many brownish-red spots. Turn the pancake over twice more, leaving it for just a few seconds each time. Put the pancake on a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way and serve immediately, if possible.
Made all over India, this savoury pancake is exceedingly popular in the north as a breakfast dish. My mother often made it for us on Sundays. It is eaten with chutneys, pickles and yoghurt relishes (see here). You could also have it instead of a chapati at lunch or dinner, with a cauliflower or potato dish and a raita.
The batter can be made a day in advance, covered and refrigerated. It can also be frozen.
MAKES ABOUT 9
200 g/7 oz moong dal (skinned and split mung beans), washed and soaked in water for 5–6 hours
1–3 fresh hot green chillies, chopped
2.5 cm/1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
handful of fresh coriander, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1 large shallot, peeled and finely chopped
about 6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
Drain the dal and place in a blender. Add the chillies, ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander, salt and 175 ml/6 fl oz water. Blend thoroughly, then empty into a bowl. Add the shallot, then stir in 3 tablespoons of water.
Put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Have two plates nearby to hold the pancakes as they are made. Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time.
Set a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add a teaspoon of the oil. When hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful into the centre of the pan. Let it sit for a second or so, then lightly use the ladle or the back of a spoon to spread it outwards in a continuous spiral motion. When it is about 13 cm/5 inches in diameter, use a spatula to spread the batter outwards from the centre as if scraping it to the edges. Again, use a light touch so you do not disturb the bottom layer and spread evenly. Aim for a diameter of 18–20 cm/7–8 inches. Dribble a teaspoon of oil on the top and just outside the rim of the pancake, cover with a lid and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the underside has turned golden-red. Flip the pancake over and cook the second side, uncovered, for 1 minute. Put the cooked pancake on a plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way, stirring the batter from the bottom each time you make a new one.
Moong Dal Pancakes Cheela, Poora
In western India, many vegetarians refer to this dish as an omelette, and eat it with toast and tea or coffee. It can be eaten for breakfast, or even as a snack. Chutneys are always offered on the side.
Follow the introduction to the preceding recipe for instructions on making these pancakes ahead of time.
MAKES ABOUT 7
115 g/4 oz chickpea flour (besan or gram flour)
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon nice red chilli powder
generous pinch of ground asafoetida
¼ teaspoon garam masala
180 g/6 oz tomato, finely diced
1 medium onion, peeled and finely diced
1 fresh hot green chilli, finely chopped (use more if you wish)
about 3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
Sift the flour, salt, turmeric, chilli powder, asafoetida and garam masala into a bowl. Slowly add about 30 ml/1 fl oz water, mixing with a wooden spoon and breaking up any lumps as you go, until you have a thin, smooth batter. Alternatively, whiz the ingredients in a blender, putting the water in first, then the flour and ground seasonings. Transfer to a bowl. Set the batter aside for 2 hours. Add all the other ingredients, except the oil, and stir to mix.
When you’re ready to cook, put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Place a 15 cm/6 inch non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add ½ teaspoon of oil. (The pan I use is 18 cm/7 inches at the widest part of the diameter, but narrows at the bottom.) Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time. When the oil is hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful of it into the centre of the pan. Tilt the pan quickly in all directions until the mixture reaches the edges. Any holes and empty spaces can be quickly filled with a little bit of extra batter. Cook for about 2 minutes, dribbling another ½ teaspoon of oil over the top of the pancake. Peek underneath to see if the pancake has turned golden-red. Slide a fine-edged plastic spatula all the way under the pancake to loosen it and flip it over. Cook the second side for another 1½–2 minutes, pressing down in the centre with the back of a spatula. This side should have many brownish-red spots. Turn the pancake over twice more, leaving it for just a few seconds each time. Put the pancake on a large plate and cover with an upturned plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way and serve immediately, if possible.
One of the glories of Andhra Pradesh, these highly nutritious pancakes are made for breakfast with great flourish at the grand Falaknuma Palace Hotel in Hyderabad, right in front of the guests who order them. A ladleful of mung batter is dropped on to a massive oiled griddle. It is spread out quickly using the back of the ladle with a spiral motion, so it thins out like a crêpe into a very large oval. Finely sliced onions and peppers may be strewn over the top, and the crisp pancake served at once with a chutney such as Fresh Coriander, Ginger & Coconut Chutney (see here). Guests just gobble them up.
Pesarattus are equally popular with less affluent locals travelling on the highways of Andhra. A family of three riding on one motorbike may decide to jump off it as they get tempted by a pesarattu stand on the roadside. I never can resist one. Here several griddles are set up to take many different types of orders. You can have it plain, with chutneys and podis (dry chutneys) or slathered with a thin layer of semolina upma (a savoury, spicy porridge (see here) and folded over. One order came in for an egg pesarattu. For this, an egg was broken over the pancake and spread around, some podi sprinkled over the top and the pesarattu turned over to let the egg cook. I decided to try one too. It was delicious.
The batter for this plain pesarattu, as all others, can be made a day ahead, covered and refrigerated. It can also be frozen.
200 g/7 oz whole mung beans
15 or so whole fenugreek seeds
1–3 fresh hot green chillies, chopped
2 cm/¾ inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
generous pinch of ground asafoetida
½ teaspoon ground cumin
handful of fresh coriander leaves
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon rice flour (also called powdered rice)
about 6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
Put the beans and fenugreek seeds into a bowl and wash them in several changes of water. Drain, then cover generously in fresh water and soak for 5–6 hours. Drain and put into a blender. Add the chillies, ginger, asafoetida, cumin, coriander, salt, 175 ml/6 fl oz water and the turmeric. Blend for several minutes, pushing down with a spatula when necessary, until you have a pancake-like batter. It will not be smooth but the beans should be well ground. Add the rice flour, blend again and empty into a bowl.
Put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Have two plates nearby to hold the pancakes as they are made. Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time.
Add about 3 tablespoons of water to the batter and mix well. It should now be like flowing cream but with a lot of texture.
Set a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add a teaspoon of the oil. When hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful into the centre of the pan. Let it sit for a second or so, then lightly use the ladle or the back of a spoon to spread it outwards in a continuous spiral motion. When it is about 13 cm/5 inches in diameter, use a plastic spatula to spread the batter outwards from the centre as if scraping it to the edges. Spread evenly, using a light touch so you do not disturb the bottom layer. Aim for a diameter of 18–20 cm/7–8 inches. Dribble a teaspoon of oil on the top and just outside the rim of the pancake, cover with a lid and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the underside has turned golden-red. Flip the pancake over and cook the other side, uncovered, for 1 minute. Either serve right away or put the cooked pancake on a plate and cover with the second plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way, stirring the batter from the bottom each time you make a new one.
These pancakes are made exactly like those in the previous recipe except that they are topped with an egg. Serve with a fresh chutney.
MAKES ABOUT 9
1 quantity Whole Mung Bean Pancake batter (see here)
about 6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, for frying
Topping per pancake
1 egg
¼ teaspoon Dry Chutney Made with Three Dals (see here), or a little salt, black pepper and nice red chilli powder
Follow the previous recipe until you have spread out the batter to the required 18–20 cm/7–8 inches. Now crack an egg and drop it on to the centre of the pancake. Break the yolk with one edge of your spatula and quickly spread the egg out over the whole pancake. Dribble 1 teaspoon oil over the top and along the outside of the rim. Sprinkle the dry chutney over the egg, then cover with a lid and cook for 2 minutes. Uncover, turn the pancake over and cook with the lid off for 1 minute. Serve immediately.
Again, these pancakes are made exactly like the basic recipe for whole Mung Bean Pancakes, but are topped with finely sliced shallots and peppers. Those who like their food really spicy can add a few slivers of hot green chillies as well. Serve with a fresh chutney.
MAKES ABOUT 9
1 quantity Whole Mung Bean Pancake batter (see here)
about 6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil, for frying
Topping per pancake
1 tablespoon finely sliced shallots
about 1 tablespoon finely julienned red peppers
¼ teaspoon Dry Chutney Made with Three Dals (see here), or Spicy Peanut Crumble (see here), or a little salt, black pepper and chilli powder
Follow the Whole Mung Bean Pancake recipe until you have spread out the batter to the required 18–20 cm/7–8 inches. Now spread the shallots and peppers evenly over the top and press them in with the back of a spatula. Dribble 1 teaspoon of oil over the top and along the outside of the rim. Sprinkle the dry chutney over the shallots and peppers, then cover with a lid and cook for 2 minutes. Uncover, turn the pancake over and cook with the lid off for 1 minute, pressing down on the pancake again. Serve immediately.
A very nutritious savoury pancake made with four different types of split peas and a little rice, all combined together. Each dal adds its own distinct texture and taste. As with most Indian savoury pancakes, these may be served at any meal, but are very commonly eaten for breakfast, accompanied by yoghurt relishes and chutneys. I also like to roll them around a dryish vegetable dish, such as Goan Potatoes or Cauliflower with Potatoes (see here or here), and serve them as ‘wraps’ with a fresh green salad for lunch.
75 g/2½ oz moong dal (skinned and split mung beans)
4 tablespoons plain toovar dal
4 tablespoons urad dal
4 tablespoons chana dal
4 tablespoons basmati rice
20–30 fresh curry leaves, finely chopped
large handful of fresh coriander, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh hot green chillies
1 teaspoon salt
about 120 ml/4 fl oz olive or peanut oil
Put the 4 dals and the rice in a large bowl and wash them in in several changes of water, rubbing them between your palms. Drain, cover generously with fresh water and soak overnight.
Drain the dals. Put 250 ml/8 fl oz water in a blender, then add the dal mixture. Blend until you have a thick, grainy batter. Empty into a bowl and add the curry leaves, coriander, chillies and salt. Mix well. Add another 120 ml/4 fl oz water and mix again. The batter should be like flowing cream but with a lot of texture. If you later find it hard to spread out, you may need to add another 3–4 tablespoons of water.
Put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Have two plates nearby to hold the pancakes as they are made. Measure 70 ml/2¾ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time.
Set a non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add a teaspoon of the oil. When hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful into the centre of the pan. Let it sit for a second or so, then lightly use the ladle or the back of a spoon to spread it outwards in a continuous spiral motion. When it is about 13 cm/5 inches in diameter, use a spatula to spread the batter outwards from the centre as if scraping it to the edges. Again, use a light touch so you do not disturb the bottom layer, and spread evenly. Aim for a diameter of 18–20 cm/7–8 inches.
Dribble a teaspoon of oil on the top and just outside the rim of the pancake, then cover with a lid and cook for about 2 minutes, or until the bottom has turned golden-red. Flip the pancake over and cook the second side, uncovered, for 1½–2 minutes. Either serve right away or put the cooked pancake on a plate and cover with the second plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way, stirring the batter from the bottom each time you make a new one.
Times have changed since I first started writing cookery books in 1967. Many more of the ingredients for regional Indian cooking are now widely available, and with the Internet, everyone has access to everything. I struggled with the wrong rice for making dosas for decades. In India they are made with ‘boiled rice’, a parboiled, medium-grain rice that is now available in nearly all Indian shops.
Dosas are very nutritious as they contain a grain (rice), a legume (urad dal), and are generally eaten with a yoghurt-based chutney to make a perfect meal. They can be eaten for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Tomato, coriander and coconut chutneys are served on the side. Quick Yoghurt & Pickle Chutney (see here) is another choice. Dosas can also be folded over a stuffing of Potato & Onion Mélange (see here), or served with a bowl of sambar.
MAKES ABOUT 9
200 g/7 oz boiled rice (Indian parboiled rice)
15 or so fenugreek seeds
4 tablespoons urad dal
½ teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
Wash the rice and fenugreek seeds, then cover generously in water and leave to soak overnight.
Wash the dal in several changes of water, then cover generously in water and leave to soak overnight.
Drain both the rice and dal and put in a blender along with 250 ml/8 fl oz water. Blend thoroughly for at least 5 minutes, pushing down with a spatula when necessary, until you have a smooth paste. It will feel very slightly gritty because of the tiny, sand-like granules of rice. Just remember that you have to keep going until the granules are, indeed, sand-like and not bigger.
Empty the batter into a bowl. Cover and leave to ferment in a warm place for at least 8 hours. I find that my batter takes about 24 hours. You will recognize when fermentation has occurred, as the batter will rise.
Stir the batter and add the salt and about 5 tablespoons of water to it. Mix well. It should be just a little thicker than crêpe batter.
Put the oil in a small bowl and stick a teaspoon in it. Have two plates nearby to hold the pancakes as they are made.
Measure 70 ml/2½ fl oz water into a ladle and mentally note the level to get an idea of how much batter you will need each time.
Set a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add a teaspoon of the oil. When hot, stir the batter from the bottom and pour a ladleful into the centre of the pan. Let it sit for a second or so, then lightly use the ladle or the back of a spoon to spread it outwards in a continuous spiral motion. When it is about 13 cm/5 inches in diameter, use a spatula to spread the batter outwards from the centre as if scraping it to the edges. Again, use a light touch so you do not disturb the bottom layer. Spread evenly, aiming for a diameter of 18–20 cm/7–8 inches. Dribble a teaspoon of oil on the top and just outside the rim of the pancake, then cover with a lid and cook for about 1 minute, or until the bottom has turned golden-red. Turn the pancake over and cook the second side, uncovered, for 1 minute. Transfer the cooked pancake to a plate and cover with the second plate.
Make all the pancakes in the same way, stirring the batter from the bottom each time you make a new one.
The patty-man was such a welcome sight when I was growing up in India. I could spot his bicycle just as he turned into our gate and would watch him as he slowly came down our long, curving drive. There was a tin trunk attached to the back of his bike, and that is where my interest lay. This trunk contained a British-Indian speciality – patties. These were a little like pasties, except that they were made with puff pastry, they were spicy and came in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian forms. The vegetarian ones were always triangular, with a little yellow from the turmeric in the curry powder temptingly oozing out at the joints. They were usually made with potatoes, but I have changed the stuffing a bit, so this set of patties is stuffed with spicy cabbage and onions, and the next one is stuffed with a lovely potato mixture. Serve with chutneys at teatime, or for lunch with a green salad using Yoghurt Dressing (see here).
You can make your own puff pastry, but since this is an ‘easy’ book, I suggest that you buy it frozen from a supermarket. I get one sheet in each 400 g/14 oz packet, so I need two of them.
The recipe makes eight large patties. If you want just four, use only one pastry sheet and half the cabbage mixture. The cabbage can hold for several days in the refrigerator.
MAKES 8 LARGE PATTIES
1 medium green cabbage (about 900 g/2 lb)
3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
½ teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
½ teaspoon whole cumin seeds
½ teaspoon whole fennel seeds
2 onions (about 285 g/10 oz in all), peeled and cut into fine half-rings
2 teaspoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
1 fresh hot green chilli, finely chopped
1 tablespoon hot curry powder
2 tablespoons tomato purée
2 teaspoons salt
flour, for dusting
800 g/1¾ lb frozen puff pastry (I buy the pastry in two 400g blocks), defrosted
Discard the outer leaves of the cabbage, quarter what remains and remove the hard inner core. Now shred the cabbage as you would for coleslaw, either chopping by hand, using a mandoline or a food processor.
Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan set over medium-high heat. When hot, throw in the mustard seeds. As soon as they start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the cumin and fennel seeds. Two seconds later add the cabbage and onions. Stir and fry for 1–2 minutes, then cover and cook on a low heat for 5 minutes. The cabbage should wilt.
Add the ginger, chilli, curry powder, tomato purée and salt. Stir and cook for a minute.
Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons oil into a large, non-stick frying pan or wok and set over a medium heat. When hot, empty all the contents of the cabbage pan into the frying pan. Stir and fry for 15–20 minutes, or until the cabbage has browned a bit and is dry. Set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 220ºC/gas mark 7. Line 2 baking trays with baking parchment.
Flour your work surface and the pastry. If you have bought the pastry in one block, cut the pastry in half. Roll out each piece so that you have a sheet that is 30 cm/12 inches square. Trim off any excess pastry. Cut each sheet into 4 squares so that you have 8 squares in total and prick each with the tines of a fork, going all the way down to your work surface. Divide the cabbage into 8 equal parts.
Take a square of pastry and, with one point facing you, fold it towards you into a triangle just to see where the fold will be. Open it up again and put 1 part of the cabbage mixture right at the fold line, spreading it evenly towards the two edges nearest you, but staying 2 cm/¾ inch away from the edges. Dip a finger in water and dab it generously on the two edges nearest you. Now fold the pastry into a triangle and seal the edges well by pressing down firmly with the balls of your fingers. Make all the patties in the same way.
Put the patties on the prepared baking trays and place in the oven for 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to 190ºC/gas mark 5 and cook for another 20 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.
Before making these patties, please read the introduction to the previous recipe (see here). The quantities below can easily be halved. Any leftover potatoes will keep for several days in the refrigerator, so can be used to make another batch of patties or eaten at a meal with Indian flatbreads.
MAKES 8 LARGE PATTIES
flour, for dusting
800 g/1¾ lb frozen puff pastry (I buy the pastry in two 400g blocks), defrosted
1 quantity Potatoes Cooked in a Banarasi Style (see here), made with 4 tablespoons of water rather than 120 ml/4 fl oz, and cooled
Preheat the oven to 220ºC/gas mark 7. Line 2 baking trays with baking parchment.
Flour your work surface and the pastry. If you have bought the pastry in one block, cut the pastry in half. Roll out each piece so that you have a sheet that is 30 cm/12 inches square. Trim off any excess pastry. Cut each sheet into 4 squares so that you have 8 squares in total and prick each with the tines of a fork, going all the way down to your work surface. Divide the potatoes into 8 equal parts.
Take one square of pastry and, with one point facing you, fold it towards you into a triangle just to see where the fold will be. Open it up again and put 1 part of the potato mixture right at the fold line, spreading it evenly towards the two edges nearest you, but staying 2 cm/¾ inch away from the edges. Dip a finger in water and dab it generously on the two edges nearest you. Now fold the pastry into a triangle and seal the edges well by pressing down firmly with the balls of your fingers. Make all the patties in the same way.
Put the patties on the prepared trays and place in the oven for 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to 190ºC/gas mark 5 and cook for another 20 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Serve hot, warm or at room temperature.
Potato Patties Aloo ki Anglo-Indian Patty
These sandwiches are a newish addition to Bombay street food. They were certainly not around when I was a child. The sandwich-wallah today sits with other snack vendors, with his hand-held grilling cage held over an open fire. He is making India’s version of a toasted sandwich, only it has many more ingredients than you would get in the UK: sweet peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, onions and the all-important green chutney, which is what makes the sandwich Indian. It is now so popular that the Taj Hotel’s elegant Sea Lounge, where I went in the 1940s and 1950s for its delicate ham and cucumber tea sandwiches, now also offers spicy toasties. I love them with a cup of hot tea. You could also have them for lunch with a soup or salad. Make the toasties using a panini/sandwich-maker or cast-iron frying pan.
SERVES 2
2 waxy potatoes (about 225 g/8 oz in all), freshly boiled, cooled and peeled (do not refrigerate)
2 medium tomatoes
½ large green or red pepper
1 medium onion
butter
4 large slices of your favourite bread
salt and freshly ground black pepper
about 2 tablespoons Green Chutney (see here)
2 slices of cheese, such as Cheddar
Cut each of the potatoes lengthways into 5 ovals. Discard the rounded outer pieces. Slice the tomatoes, discarding the top and bottom slices. Cut off the top and bottom of the pepper and remove all the seeds. Cut the remaining flesh into thin, long slices. Peel the onion and cut into fine rings.
Butter the slices of bread. Working with just 2, arrange as many potato slices on them as will fit easily. Dust lightly with salt and pepper. Put as many of the tomato slices as will fit easily on top of the potatoes and dust lightly with salt and pepper. Top with the pepper slices and onion. Dribble the chutney over the top, using only what fits easily. Put the cheese over the chutney. Top with the reserved bread slices and press down.
If using a sandwich-maker, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Otherwise, set a heavy, preferably cast-iron, frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, melt about 1 tablespoon of butter in the centre, then lay the 2 sandwiches on top of it. Keep pressing down hard on them with a spatula until the underside is reddish-gold and the cheese has melted. Turn carefully, add a little more butter, and toast the second side in the same way.
Remove the sandwiches, cut into triangles and serve immediately.
South Indians make their own sevai (thin fresh rice noodles) using all manner of wooden, brass and stainless steel presses to extrude rice dough, allowing the noodles to fall on to a lightly oiled plate set just below. They are then steamed and eaten with curries as a main meal, or just stir-fried with seasonings for a quick snack. They can also be doused with cardamom-flavoured fresh coconut milk and eaten for breakfast.
These noodles are known variously as ‘idiappam’ in Kerala, ‘nuputtu’ in Coorg and ‘sevai’ in most other places. Taking the easy way out, I use the east Asian dried rice noodles, known as rice sticks. Unfortunately, packets of rice sticks come in many different sizes and with a variety of cooking instructions – or no instructions at all, or incorrect instructions. My recipes call for about 140 g/5 oz noodles and serve 3–4. A packet that declares its weight to be 150 g/5¼ oz is fine. For a packet marked 200 g/7 oz, you just have to break off a portion of the noodles while still dry and save them for another use. (They are wonderful in soups.)
How to prepare rice sticks
Bring a pan of water to a rolling boil. Drop in the folded rice sticks and boil rapidly for 3–7 minutes. Each brand is slightly different, and some cook in just a minute, so keep tasting until the noodles are soft, pliable and fully cooked. Empty them into a colander and run cold water over them. The noodles are now ready to be stir-fried or reheated with a sauce or a little water whenever you are ready for them. This second heating will help them relax and expand much more. Remember, they are not salted. Add the salt as you reheat. Plain noodles may be served with curries.
This noodle dish may be eaten as a snack, or as part of a meal, or as the whole meal itself if you follow it with a salad with My Yoghurt Dressing (see here).
SERVES 3–4
150 g/5½ oz thin dried rice noodles, generally sold as rice sticks
2 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
1 teaspoon urad dal
1 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
8–10 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand
2 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped shallots
1–3 fresh hot green chillies, finely chopped
140 g/5 oz peas, parboiled and drained if fresh, defrosted if frozen
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons lemon juice
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
Bring a medium pan of water to a rolling boil. Drop in the noodles and let them cook until they are just tender. They should turn soft, pliable and slippery. This could take anywhere from 3–7 minutes, depending upon the brand. Bite into a noodle to check that it is cooked through. Drain and run under cold water, then set aside in the strainer.
Put the oil in a medium non-stick frying pan and set over a medium heat. When hot, add the urad dal. As soon as it begins to pick up a little colour, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care as these will splutter), then the shallots and chillies. Stir and cook over a medium-low heat until the shallots have softened. Add the peas and stir for a minute.
Reduce the heat to low, then add the noodles, salt, turmeric, lemon juice and lemon zest. Stir gently and heat the noodles through, taking about 2–3 minutes to do so. The noodles should expand a bit more during this process. Taste for balance of seasonings and adjust as necessary. Add the fresh coriander and toss.
Thin Rice Noodles with Lemon & Peas Sevai with Lemon & Peas
In Kerala, plain rice noodles are called ‘idiappam’ and often served with fiery fish curries. Here I have put them together with tomatoes and mushrooms to make a simple vegetarian dish.
I have used fresh shiitake mushrooms, now easily available. They are sold in different sizes, some being thin and small, and others quite large with thick, juicy tops. It is the large thick ones that I prefer here. I remove their stalks and quarter the caps. If you cannot find them, use whatever is available. You need chunky, 2.5 cm/1 inch pieces. White or cremini mushrooms can be used as a substitute, and in this case you do not have to remove the stems. Depending on their size, you can use them whole or cut into chunks.
SERVES 3–4
140 g/5 oz thin dried rice noodles, generally sold as rice sticks
3 tablespoons olive or peanut oil
1 teaspoon urad dal
1 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
2 dried hot red chillies
8–10 fresh curry leaves, lightly crushed in your hand
about 6 large, thick-capped fresh shiitake mushrooms (140 g/5 oz in all), stems removed and caps cut into 2.5 cm/1 inch chunks (see introduction here for alternatives)
1¼ teaspoons salt
2 tomatoes (315 g/11 oz in all), peeled and chopped
freshly ground black pepper
Bring a medium pan of water to a rolling boil. Drop in the noodles and let them cook until they are just tender. They should turn soft, pliable and slippery. This could take anywhere from 3–7 minutes, depending upon the brand. Bite into a noodle to check it is cooked through. Drain and run under cold water, then set aside in the strainer.
Put the oil in a medium non-stick frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add the urad dal. As soon as it begins to pick up a little colour, stir in the mustard seeds and red chillies. When the mustard seeds start to pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves (take care as these will splutter) and, a few seconds later, the mushrooms and ¼ teaspoon salt. Stir and fry for about 4 minutes, or until the mushrooms appear wet and glossy.
Add the tomatoes, some generous grinds of black pepper, ½ teaspoon of salt and 120 ml/4 fl oz water. Stir and bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer over a medium-low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft and there are just a few tablespoons of sauce left. Reduce the heat if necessary.
Add the drained noodles and sprinkle another ½ teaspoon of salt over the top. Stir over a low heat until the noodles have heated through and thoroughly combined with the sauce, about 2–3 minutes. The noodles should expand a bit more during this process.
