KID’S ROOM
Celebration Pennant
MADE BY Amy Lobsiger • FINISHED SIZE: 12¾˝ × 14˝
This cheerful pennant can be the central focus of any festive decor. It can also set the stage for a celebration of spring. This project features foundation piecing, insert piecing, and a little bit of appliqué—all in good measure, so that no one task is too daunting.
Materials and Supplies
CD content is available to download from http://tinyurl.com/11026-patterns.
•Off-white solid: ½ yard for background and backs of half-circles
•Solids (aqua, green, orange, pink, purple): 1˝ × 10˝ strips of each for insert piecing
•Print fabrics: 1½˝ × 3˝ scraps, totaling ⅛ yard for circle and half-circles
•Green-and-brown stripe: 10˝ square for flower stem, leaves, and hanging tabs
•Yellow rickrack, ½˝ wide: 1¼ yards
•Backing: 1 fat quarter
•Thin batting: 18˝ × 21˝
•½˝ bias pressing bar
Cutting
OFF-WHITE SOLID
•4 strips 4½˝ × 16˝ for insert pieced background
•3 rectangles 3˝ × 5˝ for backs of foundation-pieced half-circles
SOLIDS
•1 strip each 1˝ × 5˝ of green and purple
•2 strips each 1˝ × 5˝ of aqua, orange, and pink
PRINTS
•30 rectangles 1½˝ × 3˝
GREEN-AND-BROWN STRIPE
•Cut the 10˝ square in half on the bias to make 2 triangles. From the bias edge of each triangle, cut a 1½˝ strip (resulting in 2 strips each about 1½˝ × 14˝).
•1 leaf and 1 reverse leaf using patterns on page CD108
YELLOW RICKRACK
•3 pieces 8˝ for half-circles
•1 piece 15˝ for circle
INSTRUCTIONS
All seam allowances are ¼˝.
Assemble the Insertion-Pieced Background
1. Cut a gentle angle across the short width of the off-white 4½˝ × 16˝ strip as shown. Sew a solid 1½˝ × 5˝ strip along the angled edge. Press the seam toward the strip.
2. Sew the other side of the inserted strip to the rest of the off-white strip. Press the seam toward the inserted strip. Add 2 more strips to the top row in the same manner.
DESIGN NOTE Refer to the finished project photo (page 135) for suggested placement of inserted solid strips. Keep in mind that the background strips will be sewn together and cut into a pennant triangle shape.
3. Insert 2 solid 1½˝ × 5˝ strips into each of 2 background strips and 1 solid strip into the remaining background strip.
4. Trim the background strips to 4˝ wide.
5. Stitch the background strips together. Press seams open.
6. Make a copy of the pennant triangle pattern (which includes seam allowance), lay it over the pieced background, trace around it, and cut out.
Assemble the Foundation-Pieced Half-Circle
1. Assemble 5 half-circles from the print 1½˝ × 3˝ rectangles. Trim ¼˝ beyond all outside edges on the curved and straight edges.
2. Sew 2 half-circles together to make a circle. Press the seam open and remove the foundation papers.
3. Align the long edges of the remaining pieced half-circles, right sides facing, with the off-white 3˝ × 5˝ rectangles. With a ¼˝ seam allowance, stitch along the curved edge of the half-circles.
4. Trim the off-white solid even with the curved edges of the half-circles. Clip the seam allowance approximately every ¼˝. Use a point turner to turn right sides out; press.
Attach the Rickrack Trim
1. Pin an 8˝ strip of rickrack under the half-circles so that from the front you can see rickrack “bumps” along the curved edge. Edgestitch along the curved edge.
2. Place the rickrack on the right side of the full circle along the curve’s raw edge. Keep the outer rickrack “bumps” even with the raw edge.
3. Fold approximately ⅜˝ of the rickrack up (not under) at the beginning of the stitching line. Beginning at this folded edge, stitch down the center of the rickrack along the curved edge.
4. Overlap approximately ¼˝ of rickrack over the folded beginning edge. The raw end will be on the top layer. Press the seam flat. Flip the rickrack to the back of the pieced circle and press.
Make the Bias Stem
1. Fold the 1½˝ × 14˝ bias strips in half along the length. Press.
2. Insert the ½˝ bias pressing bar in the folded strip, wrong sides together. Keeping the bar even with the fold and moving it down the length of the strip as you sew, stitch right next to the pressing bar to create a ¼˝ seam. Trim the seam to ⅛˝.
3. Realign the seam so it is centered along the length of the pressing bar and press.
4. From one of the bias strips, cut 5 pieces 1½˝ long. Fold these pieces in half widthwise and press. These are the hanging tabs for the top of the pennant.
5. From the remaining bias strip, cut a piece 6¼˝ long. Place the strip near the bottom left corner of the pennant with raw edges aligned. Gently curve the strip and center it as it “grows” upward on the pennant. Pin or glue baste it in place. Hand or machine appliqué the stem in place.
Appliqué the Leaf and Flower
1. Hand or machine appliqué the leaves in place on either side of the stem, with the bottoms of the leaves approximately 5˝ from the pennant’s bottom point.
2. Center the flower at the top of the stem, covering its raw edge. Edgestitch around the flower.
Assemble the Pennant
1. Fold the pennant in half lengthwise and mark the center.
2. Center a half-circle at the top of the pennant, with raw edges even. Pin in place.
3. Pin the remaining half-circles on either side of the center half-circle, taking care that the outer edges of the half-circles (including rickrack) will not be caught in the side seam allowance.
4. Sew along the top edge to baste the half-circles in place.
5. Add the pennant hanging tabs. With raw edges even, center a folded bias strip on top of the center pieced half-circle. Pin in place. Pin the remaining 4 folded tabs 2½˝ and 5˝ away from the center tab on either side. Baste in place.
6. Layer the pennant (right side up), backing fabric (right side down), and batting. Using the pennant shape as a guide, stitch all layers together, leaving a 4˝ opening on one side of the pennant triangle for turning.
7. Trim the corners and seams near the corners. Turn right sides out using a point turner.
8. Press the hanging tabs up and the half-circles down at the top edge and hand stitch the opening closed.
Backgammon Board
ROLL-UP
FINISHED BOARD SIZE: 17½˝ × 19˝ • 17½˝ × 26˝, including pocket and flap
MADE BY Daniel Rouse
This backgammon board includes storage pockets for game pieces and rolls up for a trip to the beach or a walk to the park. But you may want to leave it out on the living room table to show off its many lovely details.
Materials and Supplies
CD content is available to download from http://tinyurl.com/11026-patterns.
•Green print fabric 1: 6½˝ × 18˝ for backgammon points
•Contrasting green print fabric 2: 6½˝ × 18˝ for backgammon points
•Cream solid fabric: 1⅛ yard for background
•Blue print fabrics: totaling ¼ yard for flying geese (I used 24 different prints.)
•Green-and-blue print 1: enough for 9 fussy-cut 2˝ × 2˝ squares
•Green-and-blue print 2: 1 fat eighth for accent stars
•Green solid fabric: 1 fat quarter for pocket
•Green print fabric 3: 18˝ × 26½˝ for cover
•Blue solid fabric: 2 strips 1½˝ × 17˝ for ties
•Fusible fleece: 18˝ × 19½˝
Cutting
GREEN PRINT 1 AND 2
•Cut each rectangle into 12 wedges ¾˝ wide at the top and 2˝ wide at the bottom for backgammon points.
BLUE PRINT
•84 rectangles 1½˝ × 2½˝ for Flying Geese
GREEN-AND-BLUE PRINT 1
•Fussy cut 9 squares 2˝ × 2˝ for border squares
GREEN-AND-BLUE PRINT 2
•8 rectangles 1½˝ × 4˝ for stars
GREEN SOLID FABRIC
•2 rectangles 4¼˝ × 18˝ for pocket
CREAM SOLID
•6 strips 2¼˝ × 40˝. Subcut strips into 102 squares 2¼˝ × 2¼˝; then cut squares diagonally into 204 triangles for borders.
•1 strip 6½˝ × 40˝. Subcut strip into 28 wedges ¾˝ wide at the top and 2˝ wide at the bottom for backgammon points.
•8 rectangles 2˝ × 2½˝ for stars
•8 rectangles 2½˝ × 4½˝ for stars
•2 strips 1˝ × 17˝ for side borders
•2 strips 1˝ × 19½˝ for top and bottom borders
•1 rectangle 8˝ × 18˝ for pocket flap
INSTRUCTIONS
All seam allowances are ¼˝.
Assemble the Backgammon Board
1. Assemble 4 section A blocks using the cream background wedges for the odd-numbered pieces and alternating green prints 1 and 2 for the backgammon points.
2. Assemble 4 section B blocks and 6 section C blocks using the blue print rectangles for the geese and the small cream background triangles.
3. Assemble 9 section D blocks using the fussy-cut green-and-blue print 1 and the small cream background triangles.
4. Arrange the A blocks so the backgammon points point downward. Sew a B block to the top of each A block. Make sure that for 2 blocks, the geese point right, and for the other 2 blocks, the geese point left.
5. Make the outer edge DC strips by joining D to C to D to C to D so that the geese in each C block point toward the center D block. Repeat this step to make 2 strips.
6. Make the center DC strip by joining D to C to D to C to D so that the geese in each C block point away from the center D block.
7. Assemble 4 section E blocks using the green-and-blue print 2 and the 2˝ × 2½˝ cream background rectangles. Make 1.Make 2.
8. Assemble 4 section F blocks using the green-and-blue print 2 and the 2˝ × 4½˝ cream background rectangles.
9. Sew the E blocks to the slanted side of the F blocks, taking care to match the star points. Sew the EF blocks together in pairs as shown.
10. Sew an EF star between 2 AB blocks so that the backgammon points in each A block point toward the EF star and the geese in both B blocks point right. Sew an outer edge DC strip to the left of this strip.
11. Sew the other EF star between the remaining AB blocks so that the backgammon points in each A block point toward the EF star and the geese in both B blocks point left. Sew an outer edge DC strip to the right of this strip.
12. Sew the center DC strip between the star strips so the B geese point toward the DC strip.
13. Pin and sew the cream 1˝ × 17˝ strips to the sides of the playing board and the cream 1˝ × 19½˝ strips to the top and bottom. Press seams toward the strips.
14. Remove all foundations from the wrong side of the playing board. Apply the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the playing board and quilt around the accent stars.
Assemble the Roll Tie
1. Fold under and press a short end of each blue tie strip by ¼˝.
2. Press the strips in half lengthwise; open and press each long edge toward the middle to meet at the center crease. Fold in half again and topstitch around the edge to create 2 blue ⅜˝ × 16¾˝ ties.
Assemble the Pocket
1. Pin the pocket rectangles 4¼˝ × 18˝ right sides together and sew along a long edge. Press the seam open, fold wrong sides together, and press the seam flat. Topstitch the seam about ⅛˝ from the edge.
2. Pin and sew the unsewn long edge of the pocket to one side of the backgammon board. Press the seam toward the backgammon board.
Assemble the Roll
1. Lay the large cover rectangle right side up on a table. Place the 2 ties on the cover 4½˝ from the top and bottom long edges, with the unfinished tie ends hanging over the left edge by ¼˝.
2. Place the backgammon board and pocket right side down, with the pocket to the right. Align the edge of the board with the left edge of the cover.
3. Align the 8˝ × 18˝ pocket flap rectangle right side down with the right side of the cover.
4. Pin, taking care to align the edges where multiple layers overlap, and secure the ties. Sew around the cover rectangle.
5. Clip the corners and turn right side out through the pocket flap gap. Press the edges flat.
6. Place the board right side up on a table. Ensure that the overlapping pocket layers are flat and straight. Pin along the base of the pocket.
7. Topstitch a rectangle around the backgammon board, about ¼˝ from the edge of the pocket and the top, bottom, and left sides of the board.
8. Topstitch a second rectangle around the pocket flap, about ¼˝ from the base of the pocket and the top, bottom, and right sides of the flap.
9. Topstitch a small rectangle and an “X” shape in the center of the pocket cover to create 2 pockets.
NOTE To roll the board for storage, place the backgammon pieces and dice in the two pockets and fold the flap over the pockets. Fold the board in half lengthwise, taking care to keep the pockets covered. Starting at the pocket end, roll up the board. Wrap the ties around the board and tie.
Kid’s Book Bag
FINISHED BLOCK SIZE (each paper clip): 6˝ × 6˝ • FINISHED BAG SIZE: 14˝ × 17˝
MADE BY Laura Jane Taylor
This tote bag with fabric dividers is perfect for organizing your child’s reading books. Have fun thinking up personalized labels to suit your little bookworm!
Materials and Supplies
CD content is available to download from http://tinyurl.com/11026-patterns.
•White text fabric: ½ yard for background of paper clip blocks
•4 colors of assorted scraps: less than ¼ yard each for paper clip blocks
•Dark gray fabric: ⅛ yard for inner border
•Aqua fabric: ¼ yard for outer border
•Gray fabric: 1 fat quarter for back of bag
•White newsprint fabric: ½ yard for bag lining
•Orange fabric: ½ yard for dividers
•Yellow fabric: ½ yard for dividers
•Green fabric: ½ yard for dividers
•Medium-weight fusible interfacing: 1 yard if interfacing is 35˝ wide, or 2 yards if using 18˝-wide interfacing
•1˝-wide cotton twill tape: 2 yards
•Erasable fabric pen
•Small alphabet stamps and fabric ink pad OR permanent fabric pen
Cutting
DARK GRAY
•2 strips 1˝ × 12½˝ for inner border
•2 strips 1˝ × 13½˝ for inner border
AQUA
•2 strips 2½˝ × 13½˝ for outer border
•2 strips 2½˝ × 17½˝ for outer border
GRAY
•1 square 17½˝ × 17½˝ for back of bag
WHITE NEWSPRINT
•2 squares 17½˝ × 17½˝ for lining
ORANGE
•2 pieces 13˝ × 14½˝ for fabric dividers
YELLOW
•2 pieces 13˝ × 14½˝ for fabric dividers
GREEN
•2 pieces 13˝ × 14½˝ for fabric dividers
COTTON TWILL TAPE
•3 pieces 1˝ × 2½˝ for labels
•2 pieces 1˝ × 25˝ for labels
INTERFACING
•4 pieces 17½˝ × 17½˝
INSTRUCTIONS
All seam allowances are ¼˝.
Assemble the Block
1. Assemble 4 paper clip blocks using the white text print fabric for the background and each of the colors for the paper clips. Trim each block to 6½˝ × 6½˝.
NOTE Pieces 15 and 16 must be joined before sewing to the foundation. Cut a 1˝ × 4½˝ strip of colored fabric for piece 15 and a 1˝ × 1½˝ strip of text fabric for piece 16. Sew together end to end, right sides together and press the seam open. Make sure the seam aligns with the printed seamline on the foundation; then, stitch in place.
2. Sew the 4 paper clip blocks together as shown.
Assemble the Outer Bag
1. Sew the dark gray 1˝ × 12½˝ strips to the sides of the paper clip block, and sew the dark gray 1˝ × 13½˝ strips to the top and bottom. Press seams toward the strips.
2. Sew the aqua 2½˝ × 13½˝ strips to the sides of the paper clip block, and sew the aqua 2½˝ × 17½˝ strips to the top and bottom. Press seams toward the strips.
3. Remove the paper foundations. Apply the fusible interfacing to the front and back of the bag and to the 2 lining pieces.
4. Sew the bag front and back together on 3 sides, right sides together. Leave the top of the bag open.
Make the Dividers
1. Print words such as “READING,” “HOMEWORK,” and “JUST FOR FUN” on the top half of the 3 twill 1˝ × 2½˝ strips. Leave at least ¼˝ free space at the bottom of the tape for the seam allowance.
TIP
You could also use a fabric marker to write the labels.
2. Fold a fabric divider piece in half along the 14½˝ side. Mark the center with a crease.
3. With the divider piece right side up, place a twill tape label upside down and facing down. The bottom of the twill tape should be at the edge of the divider at the center point marked in Step 2.
4. Pin the second divider piece on the first, right sides together and long sides matching. Sew along the top, making sure to trap the label in the seam. Pin and sew along the bottom.
5. Turn the divider right side out and press. Topstitch along the top, ⅛˝ away from the edge.
6. Repeat Steps 2–5 for the next divider, positioning the label 3˝ to the left of center.
7. Repeat Steps 2–5 for the last divider, positioning the label 3˝ to the right of center.
Make the Lining
1. Stack the 3 fabric dividers in the order they will appear in the bag, and pin together.
2. Place a lining piece right side up. Measure and mark 1½˝ down from the top edge on both side edges, using an erasable fabric marker. Position the dividers on top of the lining so that the top left corner meets the left-side mark and all pieces are aligned along the left edge. Pin in place. Note that the fabric dividers won’t reach either the bottom or the mark on the right side.
3. Place the second lining piece on top of the first, right sides together, aligning all edges. Pin securely through all 5 layers and stitch down the left edge. Flip back the top layer of the lining.
4. Match the top right corner of all dividers to the right mark on the lining, and align the lining and fabric dividers along the right side. Flip the top layer back in place, pin, and stitch along the right side. The fabric dividers will not reach all the way across the lining—they will hang as if suspended from the sides.
5. Sew across the bottom of the lining, leaving a 5˝ gap in the middle for turning. Backstitch at both edges of the gap.
Box the Corners
1. Turn the bag inside out. To create a box corner, make a triangle at the bottom by centering the left-side seam over the bottom seam. Flatten the sides evenly and draw a 3˝ line across the corner. Stitch along this line. Stitch again to reinforce the seam. Trim off the excess, leaving a ¼˝ seam allowance.
2. Repeat Step 1 for the bottom right side of the bag. Make box corners for the lining. Press all pieces.
Finish the Bag
1. Find the center front of the bag opening and mark 2½˝ on both sides. Pin the ends of one of the 25˝ handles at the marks. Take care not to twist the handle when pinning.
2. Repeat Step 1 for the back of the bag and the second handle.
3. Turn the lining wrong side out. Place the bag inside the lining, right sides together. Match the side seams and pin around the bag’s top edge. Sew the bag and lining together, securing the handle ends but making sure the handle loops and dividers are out of the way.
4. Turn the bag right side out and machine stitch the opening closed.
5. Push the lining and dividers into the bag and press well to smooth out the seam at the top edge. Topstitch around the bag’s entire top edge.
The Old Clock Quilt
LONDON TIME
MADE BY Lynne Goldsworthy • FINISHED QUILT SIZE: 54˝ × 54˝
Don’t you sometimes wish time would stand still? Wouldn’t it be nice to capture those rare moments when everyone is happy and all the work for the day is done? This stylish, classic clock quilt can do just that. Set the time on the clock to that special moment and place where you were happiest. The plaid is by Denyse Schmidt for Freespirit, the cream grunge fabric is by BasicGrey for Moda, the charcoal sketch fabric is from Timeless Treasures, and the black solid is by Oakshott.
Materials and Supplies
CD content is available to download from http://tinyurl.com/11026-patterns.
•Cream fabric: 1½ yards for clock face background
•Charcoal fabric: ½ yard for Roman numerals and “LONDON TIME”
•Black solid fabric: ½ yard for clock frame
•Black plaid fabric: 3⅛ yards for wall (If your plaid is larger, get enough to match the plaid.)
•Backing fabric: 3½ yards
•Binding fabric: ½ yard
•Batting: 62˝ × 62˝
•Fusible web: approximately 10˝ × 20˝
Cutting
CREAM GRUNGE FABRIC
•1 strip 1˝ × width of fabric; subcut into 8 strips 1˝ × 3½˝ to sash the words
•1 strip 3½˝ × width of fabric; subcut into 2 strips 3½˝ × 9¼˝ and 2 strips 3½˝ × 6½˝ to sash the words
•3 strips 7½˝ × 27˝ for clock face
•Use the remainder to piece the Roman numerals and letters.
BLACK SOLID FABRIC
•12 pieces using clock frame pattern on page CD124
BLACK PLAID FABRIC
•2 pieces 58˝ × width of fabric for wall
BACKING FABRIC
•2 pieces 62˝ × width of fabric
BINDING FABRIC:
•6 strips 2½˝ × width of fabric
INSTRUCTIONS
Note: All seam allowances are ¼˝
Assemble the Roman Numerals
1. Assemble Roman numerals 1–8.
2. For Roman numerals 9, 10, 11, and 12, assemble sections A and B and join to create each Roman numeral.
3. Join the Roman numerals at the side seams to make a ring. Press the seams counterclockwise.
Assemble the Clock Face Center
1. Assemble the letters for the words “LONDON” and “TIME.” Trim the letter “I” to 1˝ × 3½˝. Trim the letter “M” to 3½˝ × 3½˝. Trim all other letters to 2½˝ × 3½˝.
2. Use the cream 1˝ × 3½˝ strips between the letters to form “LONDON” and “TIME.”
3. Sew a cream 3½˝ × 6½˝ strip to both ends of “LONDON.” Repeat for “TIME,” using the cream 3½˝ × 9¼˝ strips.
4. Sew a cream 7½˝ × 27˝ strip between “LONDON” and “TIME.”
5. Sew the remaining cream 7½˝ × 27˝ strips to the top and bottom of the “LONDON TIME” piece.
Attach the Roman Numerals to the Clock Face
1. Fold the clock face in half horizontally and vertically to find the center top, center bottom, and center of both sides. Fold the Roman numeral ring to find its centers at the top, bottom, and sides.
2. Pin the ring to the clock face, right sides together, first matching center marks, then at each seam and several places in between. Before sewing, check that the ring is centered on the square. Sew with the Roman numeral ring on top and the clock face underneath.
3. Press the seam toward the ring. Trim the clock face into a circle.
Assemble the Clock Frame
1. Sew the 12 clock frame sections together to make a ring. Press the seams counterclockwise.
2. Pin the clock frame to the Roman numerals, right sides together, at every seam and in several places in between. Sew together with the clock frame on top and the Roman numerals underneath. Press the seam toward the clock frame.
Assemble the Wall
1. Sew the 2 plaid 58˝ × width of fabric pieces together along the 58˝ edges, aligning the plaid pattern if needed. Trim to 54˝ square.
2. Center the clock face on the wrong side of the wall fabric and trace around it. Draw a second circle ½˝ smaller than the first circle inside the traced clock face and cut out. (You can use the circle for another project.)
3. Pin the wall to the clock, right sides together, at every seam and in several places in between. Sew together with the wall fabric on top and the clock underneath. Press the seam toward the wall fabric.
Add the Clock Center and Hands
1. Cut out the patterns for the hour and minute hands, and tape together.
2. Trace the clock hands and the central circle pattern onto the fusible web. Cut them out roughly and fuse to the back of the clock hand fabric.
3. Carefully cut out the hands and fuse them, followed by the center circle, to the quilt.
4. Sew around the edges of the hands and circle using a blanket, zigzag, or other decorative stitch.
Finish the Quilt
1. Remove the foundations. Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top. Quilt as desired. (I quilted using a cross hatch with diagonal lines 1˝ apart using Aurifil 50wt 2326.)
2. Sew the binding strips end to end using diagonal joining seams. Press in half along the length. Machine sew the strips to the front of the quilt, mitering the corners. Hand sew the binding to the back to finish the quilt.