makes 8 to 12 meze servings
It would be hard to imagine the Greek meze table without a few slightly charred, smoky grilled octopus tentacles. If you’re using a frozen octopus, it will need to thaw in the refrigerator overnight, so plan ahead.
1 medium fresh or frozen octopus, about 4 pounds (1.8 kg)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 bay leaf
2 fresh rosemary sprigs
2 or 3 fresh thyme sprigs
½ cup (120 ml) dry red wine
½ cup (120 ml) red wine vinegar
¼ cup (60 ml) balsamic vinegar
½ cup (120 ml) plus 2 to 3 table-spoons extra-virgin Greek olive oil, plus more for brushing grill
1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
2 heaping teaspoons dried Greek oregano
2 tablespoons Greek capers, drained and rinsed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or oregano
If using frozen octopus, defrost it in the refrigerator overnight.
Using a large, sharp knife, cut off the octopus’s sack-like hood just below the eyes and either discard or use to make a few servings of octopus keftedes (see here). Divide the octopus into 8 pieces, keeping the tentacles intact. Place it in a large heavy saucepan with the garlic, bay leaf, rosemary, thyme, wine, red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, ½ cup (120 ml) of the olive oil, and the pepper. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the tentacles are tender but al dente and not at all stringy.
Remove the octopus from the pot and place it in a bowl with enough of the liquid from the pot to cover. Strain the remaining liquid from the pot and discard the solids. Set aside until ready to grill. (At this point, you can let the octopus cool to room temperature, then refrigerate it in its cooking liquid for up to 24 hours; refrigerate the strained cooking liquid as well. Bring the octopus to room temperature before grilling.)
When ready to grill, heat a grill to medium-high.
Return the strained octopus cooking liquid to the pot and simmer over medium-low heat until reduced to a loose, syrupy consistency.
Brush the grill grates with a little olive oil. Grill the octopus tentacles for 8 to 12 minutes, turning to char lightly on all sides.
Transfer the tentacles to a serving platter. Drizzle with the reduced cooking liquid and the remaining 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, sprinkle with the capers and a little fresh parsley or oregano, and serve.
TO MAKE OCTOPUS KEFTEDES: Turn the hood inside out and rinse it under cold running water. Using a paring knife or your fingers, remove and discard the viscera. Place the hood in a small pot, add water to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until cooked through, about 40 minutes. Remove from the pot and let cool. Chop the hood and place it in the bowl of a food processor. Add ¼ cup (25 g) chopped fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, 1 tablespoon tomato paste, ¼ cup (35 g) chopped red onion, 1 tablespoon ouzo, ¼ to ½ cup (25 to 50 g) plain dried bread crumbs, and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Pulse on and off a few times until the mixture forms a dense mass. Remove with a spatula and transfer to a bowl. Take a scant tablespoon and shape it into a small ball, 1 to 1½ inches (2.5 to 4 cm) in diameter. Place on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining mixture, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up.
Heat 1 inch (2.5 cm) of olive or other oil over medium-high heat. Lightly dredge the octopus keftedes in all-purpose flour, shaking off the excess, and fry in the hot oil, turning, until browned on all sides. makes 12 to 14 keftedes
