Arcos de la Frontera • Ronda • Zahara and Grazalema • Jerez de la Frontera
Andalucía’s White Hill Towns at a Glance
Map: Arcos de la Frontera Overview
Sights and Experiences in Ronda
Map: Route of the White Hill Towns
Just as the American image of Germany is Bavaria, the Yankee dream of Spain is Andalucía. This is the home of bullfights, flamenco, gazpacho, pristine whitewashed hill towns, and glamorous Mediterranean resorts. The big cities of Andalucía (Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba) and the south coast (Costa del Sol) are covered in separate chapters. This chapter explores Andalucía’s hill-town highlights.
The Route of the White Hill Towns (Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos), Andalucía’s charm bracelet of cute villages perched in the sierras, gives you wonderfully untouched Spanish culture. The most substantial and entertaining home base is Ronda, which stuns visitors with its breathtaking setting—straddling a gorge that thrusts deep into the Andalusian bedrock. Ronda’s venerable old bullring, smattering of enjoyable sights, and thriving tapas scene round out its charms. Or, for something quieter and more exotic, spend a night in the romantic queen of the white towns, Arcos de la Frontera. (Towns with “de la Frontera” in their names were established on the front line of the centuries-long fight to recapture Spain from the Muslims, who were slowly pushed back into Africa.) Smaller hill towns, such as Zahara and Grazalema, offer plenty of beauty. As a whole, the hill towns—no longer strategic, no longer on any frontier—are now just passing time peacefully. Except for the cruise groups that wash in from Costa del Sol resorts like the tide, these towns feel a bit bypassed and mysterious.
West of the hill towns, the city of Jerez de la Frontera—teeming with traffic and lacking in charm—is worth a peek for its famous dancing horses and a glass of sherry on a bodega tour.
To study ahead, visit www.andalucia.com for information on festivals, museums, nightlife, and sports in the region.
On a three-week vacation in Spain, Andalucía’s hill towns are worth at least two nights and one day—or more. Ronda (bigger and with more going on) or Arcos (smaller and sleepier) make the best home bases. Ronda is closer to the Costa del Sol. Arcos is closer to Jerez, and conveniently situated halfway between Sevilla and Tarifa.
Ronda can keep you busy for an entire day. Arcos can be experienced in an evening. You could spend a day hopping from town to town in the more remote interior (including Grazalema and Zahara). See Jerez on your way in or out.
Unlike most hill towns, Arcos, Jerez, and Ronda are conveniently reached by public transportation: They have bus connections with surrounding towns, and Ronda is on a train line.
Spring and fall are high season throughout this area. In summer you’ll encounter intense heat, but empty hotels, lower prices, and no crowds.
Arcos smothers its long, narrow hilltop and tumbles down the back of the ridge like the train of a wedding dress. It’s larger than most other Andalusian hill towns, but equally atmospheric. The old center is a labyrinthine wonderland, a photographer’s feast. Viewpoint-hop through town. Feel the wind funnel through the narrow streets as cars inch around tight corners. Join the kids’ soccer game on the churchyard patio. Enjoy the moonlit view from the main square.
Though it tries, Arcos is low energy. It doesn’t have much to offer other than its basic whitewashed self. The locally produced English guidebook on Arcos waxes poetic and at length about very little. You can arrive late and leave early and still see it all.
Arcos consists of two parts: the fairy-tale old town on top of the hill and the more commercial lower, or new, town. The main TI is on the skinny one-way road leading up into the old town (Mon-Sat 9:30-14:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-14:00; Cuesta de Belén 5, +34 956 702 264, www.turismoarcos.com). A model there shows Arcos (in Latin, Arx Arcis—“high fortress”) as it was in 1264 when the Christian Reconquista forces retook it from the Moors. On the floors above the TI is a skippable local history museum (sparse exhibits described only in Spanish).
By Bus: The bus station is on Calle Corregidores, at the foot of the hill. To get up to the old town, catch the shuttle bus marked Centro from the bus stalls behind the station. Tell the driver the name of your hotel and he’ll bring you to the closest stop (€1, pay driver, generally departs at :15 and :45 past the hour, runs roughly Mon-Fri 7:45-21:15, Sat until 14:15, none on Sun). Alternately, hop a taxi (€5 fixed rate; if none are waiting, call +34 956 704 640), or hike 15 uphill minutes.
By Car: The old town is a tight squeeze with a one-way traffic flow from west to east (coming from the east, circle south under town). The TI and my recommended hotels are in the west. If you miss your target, you must drive out the other end, double back, and try again. Driving in Arcos is like threading needles (many drivers pull in their side-view mirrors to buy a few extra precious inches). Turns are tight, parking is frustrating, and congestion can lead to long jams.
It’s less stressful to park in the modern Paseo de Andalucía underground pay lot (€15/day) at Plaza de España in the new town and hike 15 uphill minutes to the old town. Or catch a taxi or the Centro shuttle bus—see “By Bus” earlier (as you’re looking uphill, the bus stop is to the right of the traffic circle). Many hotels offer discounts at this lot; inquire when booking your room.
Small cars capable of threading the narrow streets of the old town can park in the main square at the top of the hill (Plaza del Cabildo). Buy a ticket from the machine (€0.70/hour, 2-hour maximum, only necessary Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00 and Sat 9:00-14:00—confirm times on machine). Hotel guests parking here overnight must obtain a €5 dashboard pass from their hotelier; daytime parking charges still apply.
Money: There are no ATMs in the old town. You’ll find several ATMs in the new town along Calle Corredera and near the Paseo de Andalucía underground parking lot.
Groceries: You’ll find smaller stores with a basic selection of groceries in the old town or close to the TI. For a bigger grocery store head to the Mercadona in the new town (Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00, closed Sun, Avenida San Juan Bautista de la Salle, www.mercadona.es).
Shuttle Bus Joyride: The old town is easily walkable, but it’s fun to take a circular ramble on the shuttle bus. The little minibus constantly circles through the town’s one-way system and around the valley (see “Arrival in Arcos,” earlier, for details). For a 30-minute tour, just hop on. In the old town, you can catch it just below the main church near the mystical stone circle (generally departs at :20 and :50 past the hour). Sit in the front seat for the best view of the tight squeezes and the school kids hanging out in the plazas. After passing under a Moorish gate, you enter a modern residential neighborhood, circle under the eroding cliff, and return to the old town by way of the bus station and Plaza de España.
Views: For drivers, the best town overlook is from a tiny park just beyond the new bridge on the El Bosque road. In town, there are some fine viewpoints (for instance, from the main square), but the church towers are no longer open to the public.
This self-guided walk will introduce you to virtually everything worth seeing in Arcos. (Avoid this walk during the hot midday siesta.)
• Start at the top of the hill, in the main square dominated by the church.
Stand at the viewpoint opposite the church on the town’s main square. Survey the square, which in the old days doubled as a bullring. On your right is the parador, a former palace of the governor. It flies three flags: green for Andalucía, red-and-yellow for Spain, and blue-and-yellow for the European Union. On your left is City Hall, below the 11th-century Moorish castle where Ferdinand and Isabel held Reconquista strategy meetings (castle privately owned and closed to the public).
Now belly up to the railing and look down at the dramatic view. The people of Arcos boast that only they see the backs of the birds as they fly. Ponder the parador’s erosion concerns (it lost part of its lounge in the 1990s when it dropped right off), the orderly orange groves, and the fine views toward the southernmost part of Spain. The city council considered building an underground parking lot to clear up the square, but nixed it because of the land’s fragility. You’re 300 feet above the Guadalete River.
• Looming over the square is the...
After Arcos was retaken from the Moors in the 13th century, this church was built atop a mosque. Notice the church’s fine but chopped-off bell tower. The old one fell in the earthquake of 1755 (famous for destroying Lisbon). The replacement was intended to be the tallest in Andalucía after Sevilla’s, but money ran out. It looks like someone lives on an upper floor. Someone does—the church guardian resides there.
Cost and Hours: €2, €3 combo-ticket includes Church of San Pedro, Mon-Fri 10:00-13:00 & 15:30-18:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, shorter hours in winter, closed Sun and Jan-Feb.
Visiting the Church: Buy a ticket and step inside, where you can see they’ve packed a lot of decoration into a small space. Work your way between the pews to examine the beautifully carved choir. Its organ was built in 1789 with that many pipes. At the very front of the church, the nice Renaissance high altar, carved in wood, covers up a Muslim prayer niche that survived from the older mosque. The altar shows God with a globe in his hand (on top), and scenes from the life of Jesus (on the right) and Mary (left). To the left of the altar is a fine surviving 14th-century Andalusian Gothic fresco.
Continue circling the church and notice the elaborate chapels. Although most of the architecture is Gothic, the chapels are decorated in the Baroque and Rococo styles that were popular when the post-earthquake remodel began. The ornate statues are used in Holy Week processions. Sniff out the “incorruptible body” (miraculously never rotting) of St. Felix—a third-century martyr (directly across from the entry). Felix may be nicknamed “the incorruptible,” but take a close look at his knee. He’s no longer skin and bones...just bones and the fine silver mesh that once covered his skin. Rome sent his body here in 1764, after recognizing this church as the most important in Arcos. In the back of the church, near a huge fresco of St. Christopher (carrying his staff and Baby Jesus), is a gnarly Easter candle from 1767.
• Back outside, circle clockwise around the church and examine the church exterior.
Down four steps, find the third-century Roman votive altar with a carving of the palm tree of life directly in front of you. Though the Romans didn’t build this high in the mountains, they did have a town and temple at the foot of Arcos. This carved stone was discovered in the foundation of the original Moorish mosque, which stood here before the first church was built. This has long been considered a fertility stone (women would come here to help with pregnancy).
Head down a few more steps and come to the main entrance (west portal) of the church (always closed). This is a good example of Plateresque Gothic—Spain’s last and most ornate kind of Gothic.
In the pavement, notice the 15th-century magic circle with 12 red and 12 white stones—the white ones have various “constellations” marked (though they don’t resemble any of today’s star charts). When a child would come to the church to be baptized, the parents stopped here first for a good Christian exorcism. The exorcist would stand inside the protective circle and cleanse the baby of any evil spirits. While locals no longer do this (and a modern rain drain now marks the center), many Sufi Muslims still come here in a kind of pilgrimage every November. (Down a few more steps, you can catch the public minibus for a circular joyride through Arcos; see “Helpful Hints,” earlier.)
Go down the next few stairs to the street and circle right. Peer down the next narrow path to the left called Cuesta de las Monjas. The security grille (over the window above) protected cloistered nuns when this building was a convent. Look at the arches that prop up the houses downhill; all over town, arches support earthquake-damaged structures.
Continue straight under the flying buttresses. Notice the scratches of innumerable car mirrors on each wall (and be glad you’re walking). The buttresses were built to shore up the church when it was damaged by an earthquake in 1699. (Thanks to these supports, most of the church survived the bigger earthquake of 1755.)
• Now make your way...
Completing your circle around the Church of Santa María (huffing back uphill), turn left under more arches built to repair earthquake damage and walk east down the bright, white Calle Escribanos (“Street of the Scribes”). Although it changes names, you’ll basically follow this lane until you come to the town’s second big church (San Pedro).
After a block, you hit Plaza Boticas. On your right is the last remaining convent in Arcos. Notice the no-nunsense, spiky window grilles high above, with tiny peepholes in the latticework for the cloistered nuns to see through. If you’re hungry, check out the list and photos of the treats the nuns provide. Then step into the lobby under the fine portico to find their one-way mirror and a spinning cupboard that hides the nuns from view. Push the buzzer, and one of the eight sisters (several are from Kenya and speak English well) will spin out some boxes of excellent, freshly baked cookies—made from pine nuts, peanuts, almonds, and other nuts—for you to consider (€7-8, open daily but not reliably 8:30-14:30 & 17:00-19:00; be careful—if you stand big and tall to block out the light, you might see the sister through the glass). If you ask for magdalenas, bags of cupcakes will swing around (€3.50). These are traditional goodies made from natural ingredients. Buy some treats to support their church work, and give them to kids as you complete your walk.
• As you exit the convent, turn right and go right again down Calle Boticas.
Be on the lookout for ancient columns tucked into building corners. All over town, these columns—many actually Roman, appropriated from their original ancient settlement at the foot of the hill—were put up to protect buildings from reckless donkey carts (and tourists in rental cars).
As you continue straight, notice that the walls are scooped out on either side of the windows. These are a reminder of the days when women stayed inside but wanted the best possible view of any action in the streets. These “window ears” also enabled boys in a more modest age to lean inconspicuously against the wall to chat up eligible young ladies.
Across from the old chapel facade ahead, find the Palace del Mayorazgo, which houses the Association of San Miguel. Duck right, past a bar, into one of the oldest courtyards in town—you can still see the graceful Neo-Gothic lines of this noble home from 1850. Enjoy any art exhibits and the garden. The bar is a club for retired men—always busy when a bullfight’s on TV or during card games. The guys are friendly, and drinks are cheap. You’re welcome to flip on the light and explore the old-town photos in the back room.
• Just beyond, facing the elegant front door of that noble house, is Arcos’ second church...
Enter through the small door to the left of the main entrance (€2, €3 combo-ticket includes Church of Santa María, same hours as Church of Santa María). You know it’s the Church of San Pedro because San Pedro, mother of God, is the centerpiece of the facade. Let me explain. It really is the town’s second church, having had an extended battle with Santa María for papal recognition as the leading church in Arcos. When the pope finally favored Santa María (he declared it a minor basilica in 1993), San Pedro’s parishioners changed their prayers. Rather than honoring “María,” they wouldn’t even say her name. They prayed “San Pedro, mother of God.” Like Santa María, it’s a Gothic structure, filled with Baroque decor (including a stunning organ covered with cherubs), many Holy Week procession statues, and humble English descriptions. Santa María may have won papal recognition, but this church has more relic skeletons in glass caskets (flanking both sides of the main altar are St. Fructuoso and St. Víctor, martyrs from the third century AD). The music stand in the choir illustrates how the entire chorus can sing from just four hymnals.
• Back outside, explore...
In the cool of the evening, the tiny square in front of the church—about the only flat piece of pavement around—serves as the old-town soccer field for neighborhood kids. Until a few years ago, this church also had a resident bellman—notice the cozy balcony halfway up. He was a basket-maker and a colorful character, famous for bringing a donkey into his quarters that grew too big to get back out. Finally, he had no choice but to kill and eat the donkey.
Twenty yards beyond the church, step into the humble Galería de Arte San Pedro, featuring artisans in action and their reasonably priced paintings, engravings, and pottery (Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat-Sun until 19:00, shorter hours in winter).
Crossing behind the church to the next lane, signs direct you to a mirador—a tiny square 100 yards downhill that affords a commanding view of Arcos. The reservoir you see to the northeast of town is used for water sports in the summertime. Looking south, among the rolling fields you’ll see a power plant that local residents protested—to no avail—based on environmental concerns. Wind-driven generators blink along the horizon at night. Relax on a bench and take in this spectacular view.
• Return to the Church of San Pedro, then circle down and right along Calle Maldonado as we head back toward the main square.
Just below San Pedro’s is a delightful little Andalusian garden (formal Arabic style, with aromatic plants such as jasmine, rose, and lavender, and water in the center). About 100 yards farther along on Maldonado (on the right after the dip), peek into the Belén Artístico, a little cave-like museum, which highlights a popular Spanish tradition of setting up a Nativity scene during Christmas using miniature figures (free but donations accepted, generally Mon-Sat 10:30-13:30, closed Sun).
• This street eventually leads you back to Plaza Boticas (and those cloistered nuns selling cookies).
The lanes that run steeply down behind Plaza Boticas and the Church of Santa María offer both exercise and a chance to see into Arcos’ lovely courtyards. The lane called Higinio Capote is particularly picturesque with its many geraniums. Peek discreetly into the private patios. These wonderful, cool-tiled courtyards filled with plants, pools, furniture, and happy family activities are typical of Arcos. Except in the mansions, these patios are generally shared by several families. Originally, each courtyard served as a catchment system, funneling rainwater to a drain in the middle, which filled the well. You can still see tiny wells in wall niches with now-decorative pulleys for the bucket.
Arcos is a quiet town. When I ask locals about nightlife, they say, “We sleep.” But you’ll find a tiny pulse of nocturnal energy here and there. The newer part of Arcos has a modern charm. In the cool of the evening, all generations enjoy life out around Plaza de España (15-minute walk from the old town).
The old town is pretty quiet after hours. But the fun little bar, Taberna San Pedro (next to the Church of San Pedro), seems to be spoiling for a party. It’s a tiny, cozy joint with typical tapas, a proud selection of wines from Cádiz, and a mishmash of paintings, matador photos, and fútbol banners (closed Tue). And Lalola (down the hill, past the TI at Corredera 11) is great for drinks, tapas, and “Flamenquito” Fridays with a guitarist and cajón player.
Hotels in Arcos consider April, May, August, September, and October to be high season. Note that some hotels double their rates during the motorbike races in nearby Jerez de la Frontera (usually April or May) and during Holy Week before Easter.
Drivers should obtain a parking pass from their hotel to park overnight on the main square. (The pass does not exempt you from daytime rates.) Otherwise, park in the Paseo de Andalucía lot at Plaza de España in the new town and walk or catch a taxi or the shuttle bus up to the old town (see “Arrival in Arcos,” earlier).
$$$ Parador de Arcos de la Frontera is royally located, with 23 elegant and reasonably priced rooms (eight have balconies). The terraces offer splendid views of the town and the valley below (air-con, elevator, Plaza del Cabildo, +34 956 700 500, www.parador.es, arcos@parador.es).
$$ Hotel El Convento, deep in the old town just beyond the parador, is the best value in town. Run by a hardworking family and their wonderful staff, this cozy hotel offers 13 delicately romantic rooms—all with great views, most with balconies. In 1998 I enjoyed a big party here with most of Arcos’ big shots as they dedicated a fine room with a grand-view balcony to “Rick Steves, Periodista Turístico.” Guess where I sleep when in Arcos... (RS%, communal terrace, usually closed Nov-Feb, Maldonado 2, +34 956 702 333, www.hotelelconvento.es, reservas@hotelelconvento.es).
$$ La Casa Grande is a lovingly appointed Better Homes and Moroccan Tiles kind of place that rents eight rooms with big-view windows. As in a lavish yet authentic old-style inn, you’re free to enjoy its fine view terrace and homey library, or have a traditional breakfast (extra) on the atrium-like patio. They also offer massage services (family rooms, air-con, Wi-Fi in public areas only, Maldonado 10, +34 956 703 930, www.lacasagrande.net, info@lacasagrande.net, Elena).
$$ Casa Mirador San Pedro, in the shadow of the Church of San Pedro, has seven rustically cozy rooms and a whimsical rooftop terrace with great Arcos views. The windows are single pane, but the street noise quiets down in the evening (apartment available, air-con, El Juan de Cuenca 2—around the corner from Taberna San Pedro, mobile +34 635 189 005, miradorjuandecuenca@hotmail.com).
$ Rincón de las Nieves, with simple Andalusian charm, has a cool inner courtyard filled with plants and ceramics surrounded by three rooms. Two rooms have their own outdoor terraces with obstructed views, and all have high ceilings and access to the rooftop terrace (the highest in town) with nearly 360-degree views (air-con, Boticas 10, also rents an apartment, +34 956 701 528, mobile +34 656 886 256, www.rincondelasnieves.com, rincondelasnieves@gmail.com, Paqui).
¢ Hostal San Marcos, above a neat little bar in the heart of the old town, offers four air-conditioned rooms and a great sun terrace with views of the reservoir (air-con, Marqués de Torresoto 6, best to reserve by phone at +34 956 105 429, mobile +34 675 459 106, www.hostalsanmarcosdearcos.com, reservas@elpatio-arcos.com, José Luis speaks some English).
See the “Arcos de la Frontera Overview” map, earlier, for these new town accommodations.
$$ Hotel Los Olivos is a bright, cool, and airy place with 19 rooms, an impressive courtyard, roof garden, generous public spaces, bar, view, friendly folks, and easy pay parking. The four view rooms can be a bit noisy in the afternoon, but—with double-pane windows—are usually fine at night (RS%, includes breakfast, Paseo de Boliches 30, +34 956 700 811, www.hotel-losolivos.es, reservas@hotel-losolivos.es, Raquel, Marta, and Miguel Ángel).
¢ Hostal Málaga is surprisingly nice and a very good value if for some reason you want to stay on the big road at the Jerez edge of town. Nestled on a quiet lane between truck stops off A-393, it offers 17 clean, attractive rooms and a breezy two-level terrace (air-con, easy parking, Avenida Ponce de León 5, +34 956 702 010, www.hostalmalaga.com [URL inactive], hostalmalaga@hotmail.com, Josefa and son Alejandro speak a leetle English).
$$$ The Parador (described earlier, under “Sleeping in Arcos”) has a formal restaurant and a cafeteria with a cliff-edge setting. Its tapas and raciones are reasonably priced, and even just a drink and a snack on the million-dollar-view terrace at sunset is a nice experience (daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-23:00, shorter hours off-season, on main square, +34 956 700 500).
Several decent, rustic bar-restaurants are in the old town, within a block or two of the main square and church. Most serve tapas and raciones both at the bar and at their tables.
$$ Mesón Los Murales serves tasty, affordable tapas, raciones, and fixed-price meals in their simple bar or at tables in the square outside (Fri-Wed 10:00-24:00, closed Thu, Plaza Boticas 1, mobile +34 678 064 163).
$$ Taberna Jóvenes Flamencos offers a fun and accessible menu and is high-energy for Arcos. Try their specialties—abajao, an egg-and-asparagus dish, and perolitos, an egg scramble in a mini pan (Thu-Tue 12:00-24:00, closed Wed, Calle Dean Espinosa 11, mobile +34 657 133 552).
$$ Bar La Cárcel (“The Prison”), across the street, celebrates seafood and local meats (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, Calle Dean Espinosa 18, +34 956 700 410).
$$ Alcaraván, run by the same owners as La Cárcel, tries to be a bit trendier yet típico. A funky and fun ambience fills its medieval vault in the castle’s former dungeon. This place attracts French and German tourists who give it a cooler vibe (Wed-Sun 12:00-17:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Mon-Tue, Calle Nueva 1, +34 956 907 293).
$$ Bar San Marcos is a tiny, homey bar with five tables and an easy-to-understand menu offering hearty, simple home cooking (Sun-Mon 9:00-16:30, Tue-Sat 8:00-24:00, Marqués de Torresoto 6, +34 956 700 721).
Leaving Arcos by bus can be frustrating—buses generally leave late, the schedule information boards are often inaccurate, and the ticket window usually isn’t open (luckily, you can buy tickets onboard). Buses run less frequently on weekends. The closest train station to Arcos is Jerez.
Two bus companies—Damas and Comes—share the Arcos bus station. If your Spanish is good, you can call the Jerez offices for departure times—otherwise ask your hotelier or the TI for help. To find out about the Arcos-Jerez schedule, make it clear you’re coming from Arcos (Damas, www.damas-sa.es; Comes, www.tgcomes.es). Also try Movelia.es for bus schedules and routes.
From Arcos by Bus to: Jerez (hourly, 40 minutes, Damas), Ronda (2/day, 2 hours, Comes), Sevilla (1-2/day, 2 hours, more departures with transfer in Jerez, Damas).
Arcos to Sevilla (55 miles/90 km): The trip to Sevilla takes about 1.5 hours if you pay €7 for the toll road that starts near Jerez. To continue to southern Portugal, follow the freeway to Sevilla, and skirt the city by turning west on the SE-30 ring road in the direction of Huelva. It’s a straight shot from there on A-49/E-1.
Arcos to Tarifa (80 miles/130 km): If you’re going to Tarifa, take the tiny A-389 road at the Jerez edge of Arcos toward Paterna and Medina Sidonia, where you’ll pick up A-381 to Algeciras, then on to Tarifa. Another option is to continue through Medina Sidonia to Vejer on A-396, from where you can cut south to Tarifa.
With more than 34,000 people, Ronda is one of the largest white hill towns. It’s also one of the most spectacular, thanks to its gorge-straddling setting.
Approaching the town from the train or bus station, it seems flat...until you reach the New Bridge and realize that it’s clinging to the walls of a canyon. During Moorish times, this was a tight fortified town of 9,000—a bastion second only to Granada during the last years of Moorish rule in southern Spain. (It fell to Christian forces only in 1485—seven years before Granada.) The cliffside setting, while practical back then, today is simply dramatic, and that “old town” is now home to only 1,000 people.
Ronda’s main attractions are its gorge-spanning bridges, the oldest bullring in Spain, and an intriguing old town. Spaniards know Ronda as the cradle of modern bullfighting and the romantic home of 19th-century bandoleros (bandits). But the real joy of Ronda these days lies in exploring its back streets and taking in its beautiful balconies, exuberant flowerpots, wispy gardens, and panoramic views. Walking the streets, you feel a strong local pride and a community where everyone seems to know everyone.
While day-trippers from cruise ships and the touristy Costa del Sol clog Ronda’s streets during the day, locals retake the town in the early evening, making nights peaceful. Since it’s served by train and bus, Ronda makes a relaxing break for nondrivers traveling between Granada, Sevilla, and Córdoba. Drivers can use Ronda as a convenient base from which to explore many of the other pueblos blancos.
Ronda’s breathtaking ravine divides the town’s labyrinthine Moorish quarter and its new, noisier, and more sprawling Mercadillo quarter. A massive-yet-graceful 18th-century bridge connects these two neighborhoods. Most things of touristic importance (TI, hotels, bullring) are clustered within a few blocks of the bridge. The paseo (early evening stroll) happens in the new town, on Ronda’s major pedestrian and shopping street, Carrera Espinel.
Ronda’s hardworking TI, across the square from the bullring, covers not only the town but all of Andalucía. It gives out good, free maps of the town, Andalusia’s roads, Granada, Sevilla, and the Route of the White Towns. The TI also organizes a creative array of activities such as tours, concerts, and walks, all described in helpful lists (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat until 17:00, Sun until 14:30, shorter hours Oct-late March, Paseo Blas Infante, +34 952 187 119, www.turismoderonda.es).
Sightseeing Pass: The €8 Bono Turístico city pass gets you into four sights—the Arab Baths, Joaquín Peinado Museum, Mondragón Palace, and the New Bridge Interpretive Center.
By Train: The small station has ticket windows, a train information desk, and a café, but no lockers (there’s storage at the nearby bus station; see “Helpful Hints,” below).
From the station, it’s a 15-minute walk to the center: Exit the station, turn right onto Avenida de Andalucía, and walk to the large roundabout (you’ll see the bus station on your right). Continue straight down the street (now called San José) until you reach its end at Calle Jerez. Turn left and walk downhill past a church and the Alameda del Tajo park. Keep going, passing the bullring, to reach the TI and the famous bridge.
By Bus: To get to the center from the bus station, leave the station walking to the right of the roundabout, then follow the directions for train travelers described above. Baggage storage is available (see “Helpful Hints” below).
By Car: Street parking away from the center is often free. The handiest place for paid parking is the underground lot at Plaza del Socorro (one block from the bullring). Narrow lanes and tight turns can be challenging for even medium-size vehicles, and some access is restricted for nonresidents. Be sure to get driving and parking instructions from your hotel.
Baggage Storage: The WC attendant at the bus station can store your luggage in a locked room (daily 8:30-20:00).
Laundry: HigienSec has one machine for self-service. Full-service options can include delivery to your hotel (same-day service if you drop off early enough; Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-14:00, closed Sun, two blocks north of the bullring at Calle Molino 6, +34 952 875 249).
Souvenirs: Worth a browse is Taller de Grabados Somera, a printmaking studio near the New Bridge. Their inexpensive, charming prints of Ronda’s iconic scenery and famous bulls are hand-pulled right in their shop (Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 10:30-18:00, Calle Rosario 4, just across from the parador).
Many local guides work in conjunction with the TI to offer two-hour guided city walks (€10-20 for afternoon visits). Reserve and pay at the TI.
Entrelenguas is a cultural center in Ronda that offers much more than Spanish-language lessons. Alex, Mar, and Javier guide visitors around Ronda, focusing on monuments (€55) or cultural immersion and local businesses (€75). They can do wine tastings on request (€35) or even put together a cooking class for a small group (Calle Espíritu Santo 9, +34 951 083 862, www.entrelenguas.es).
Energetic and knowledgeable Antonio Jesús Naranjo will take you on a two-hour walking tour of the city’s sights (€125, reserve early, mobile +34 639 073 763, www.guiaoficialderonda.com).
One block away from the bullring, the town’s main park is a great breezy place for a picnic lunch, people-watching, a snooze in the shade, or practicing your Spanish with seniors from the nearby old-folks’ home. Don’t miss letting loose a few butterflies in your stomach at its tiny view terrace. It overlooks the scenic Serranía de Ronda mountains—and a drop of nearly 200 meters...straight down.
Ronda is the birthplace of modern bullfighting, and this was the first great Spanish bullring. Philip II initiated bullfighting as war training for knights in the 16th century. Back then, there were two kinds of bullfighting: the type with noble knights on horseback, and the coarser, man-versus-beast entertainment for the commoners (with no rules...much like when WWF wrestlers bring out the folding chairs). Ronda practically worships Francisco Romero, who melded the noble and chaotic kinds of bullfighting with rules to establish modern bullfighting right here in the early 1700s. He introduced the scarlet cape, held unfurled with a stick. His son Juan further developed the ritual (local aficionados would never call it a “sport”—you’ll read newspaper coverage of fights not on the sports pages but in the culture section), and his grandson Pedro was one of the first great matadors (killing nearly 6,000 bulls in his career).
Ronda’s bullring and museum rivals Sevilla’s as Spain’s most interesting. To tour the ring, stables, chapel, and museum, buy a ticket at the back of the bullring.
Cost and Hours: €8, daily 10:00-20:00, March and Oct until 19:00, Nov-Feb until 18:00, +34 952 874 132, www.rmcr.org.
Tours: The excellent €1.50 audioguide describes everything and is essential to fully enjoy your visit (drop it at the gift shop as you leave).
Bullfights: Bullfights are scheduled only for the first weekend of September during the feria (fair). Whereas every other feria in Andalucía celebrates a patron saint, the Ronda fair glorifies legendary bullfighter Pedro Romero. (As these fights are so limited and sell out immediately, Sevilla and Madrid are more practical places for a tourist to see a bullfight.)
Self-Guided Tour: I’d visit in this order. Disobey exit signs and enter directly to the right to see the bullfighters’ chapel. Before going into the ring, every matador would stop here to pray to Mary for safety—and hope to see her again.
• Just beyond the chapel are the doors to the museum exhibits filling two long hallways: horse gear on the left, and the story of bullfighting on the right, all with English translations.
The horse gear exhibit makes the connection with bullfighting and the equestrian upper class. As throughout Europe, “chivalry” began as a code among the sophisticated, horse-riding gentry. (In Spanish, the word for “gentleman” is the same as the word for “horseman”—caballero.)
Return to the hallway behind the chapel for the history exhibit. It’s a shrine to bullfighting and the historic Romero family. First it traces the long history of bullfighting, going all the way back to the ancient Minoans on Crete. Historically, there were only two arenas built solely for bullfighting: in Ronda and Sevilla. Elsewhere, bullfights were held in town squares—you’ll see a painting of Madrid’s Plaza Mayor filled with spectators for a bullfight. (For this reason, to this day, even a purpose-built bullring is generally called plaza de toros—“square of bulls.”) You’ll also see stuffed bull heads, photos, “suits of light” worn by bullfighters, and capes (bulls are colorblind, but the traditional red cape was designed to disguise all the blood). One section explains some of the big “dynasties” of fighters. At the end of the hall are historical posters from Ronda’s bullfights (all originals except the Picasso). Running along the left wall are various examples of artwork glorifying bullfighting, including original Goya engravings.
• Exit at the far end of the bullfighting history exhibit into the arena.
Here’s your chance to play toro, surrounded by 5,000 empty seats. The two-tiered arena was built in 1785—on the 300th anniversary of the defeat of the Moors in Ronda. As you leave the museum and walk out on the sand, look ahead to see the ornamental columns and painted doorway marking the royal box where the king and dignitaries sit (over the gate where the bull enters). Opposite the VIP box is the place for the band (marked música), which, in the case of a small town like Ronda, is most likely a high school band. Notice the 136 classy columns, creating a kind of 18th-century theater. Lovers of the “art” of bullfighting will explain that the event is much more than the actual killing of the bull. It celebrates noble heritage and Andalusian horse culture.
• Just beyond the arena are more parts of the complex. Find the open gate beneath the VIP seats.
Walk through the bulls’ entry into the bullpen and the stables. There are six bulls per fight (plus two backups) and three matadors. Before the fight, the bulls are penned up in this bovine death row, and ropes and pulleys safely open the right door at the right time. Climb the skinny staircase and find the indoor arena (picadero) and see Spanish thoroughbred horses training from the Equestrian School of the Real Maestranza (often during weekdays). Explore the spectators’ seating before exiting through the gift shop.
• From the bullring you can walk out to the Mirador de Ronda viewpoint and along the cliffside walkway to the New Bridge.
The ravine, called El Tajo—over 300 feet deep and just about 200 feet wide—divides Ronda into the whitewashed old city (Moorish Quarter) and the new town (El Mercadillo) that was built after the Christian reconquest in 1485. The New Bridge mightily spans the gorge. A different bridge was built here in 1735, but it fell after six years. This one was built from 1751 to 1793. Look down from the bridge viewpoint. Spit.
You can see the foundations of the original bridge and a super view of the New Bridge from the walkway between the gorge and the parador—the town’s former town hall-turned-hotel—which overlooks the gorge and bridge from the new-town side.
From the new-town side of the bridge (just outside the parador), you’ll see the entrance to the New Bridge Interpretive Center, where you can pay to climb down and enter the structure of the bridge itself (€2; Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat-Sun until 15:00, closes earlier off-season). Inside the empty-feeling hall are modest audiovisual displays about the bridge’s construction and the famous visitors to Ronda—worth a quick look only if you have the Bono Turístico pass. The views of the bridge and gorge from the outside are far more thrilling than anything you’ll find within.
This church (built from the 15th to the 17th century) has a fine Mudejar bell tower and shares a parklike square with orange trees and City Hall. It was built on and around the remains of Moorish Ronda’s main mosque (which was itself built on the site of an ancient Roman temple to Julius Caesar). With a pleasantly eclectic interior that features some art with unusually modern flair, and a good audioguide to explain it all, it’s worth a visit.
Cost and Hours: €4.50, daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00, closed Sun 13:00-14:00 for Mass, may close earlier off-season, includes audioguide, Plaza Duquesa de Parcent in the old town.
Visiting the Church: In the room where you purchase your ticket, look for the rare surviving door to the Moorish mosque (that’s a mirror; look back at the actual door). The mihrab faced not Mecca, but Gibraltar—where you’d travel to get to Mecca. Partially destroyed by an earthquake, the church was reconstructed with the fusion (or confusion) of Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles you see today.
Inside the church, marvel at the magnificent Baroque Altar del Sagrario with a statue of the Immaculate Conception in the center. The smaller altar (adjacent on the right) is a good example of Churrigueresque architecture, a kind of Spanish Rococo in which the decoration consumes the architecture—notice that you can hardly make out the souped-up columns. Its fancy decor provides a frame for the artistic highlight of the town, the Dolorosa (“Virgin of the Ultimate Sorrow”). The big fresco of St. Christopher with Baby Jesus on his shoulders (left, above the door where you entered) shows the patron saint both of Ronda and of travelers.
In the center of the church is an elaborately carved choir with a series of modern reliefs depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary. Similar to the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), this is the Via Lucis (Way of the Light), with 14 stations focusing on the Resurrection and its aftermath (such as #13—the Immaculate Conception, and #14—Mary’s assumption into heaven) that serve as a worship aid to devout Catholics. The centerpiece is an ethereal Mary as the light of the world (with the moon, stars, and sun around her).
Head to the left around the choir, noticing the bright paintings along the wall by French artist Raymonde Pagegie. He gave sacred scenes a fresh twist—like the Last Supper attended by female servants, or (opposite) the scene of Judgment Day, when the four horsemen of the apocalypse pause to adore the Lamb of God.
The treasury (at the far-right corner, with your back to the choir) displays vestments that look curiously like matadors’ brocaded outfits—appropriate for this bullfight-crazy town. Before exiting the treasury, find a spiral staircase. Climb the 73 steps to a U-shaped terrace around the church’s rooftop. Survey the entire deck (ducking under the buttresses) for great views. The highlight is actually inside: Find a tiny door that leads to a breathtaking perch high above the elaborate main altar. (Imagine walking around this ledge before there was the railing.)
This beautiful, originally Moorish building was erected in the 14th century and is the legendary (but not actual) residence of Moorish kings. The building was first restored in the 16th century (notice the Mudejar tiled courtyard), and its facade dates only from the 18th century. Upstairs is Ronda’s Municipal Museum, focusing on prehistory and geology. Wander through its many kid-friendly rooms. Peruse the exhibits on Neolithic toolmaking and early metallurgy (like a seventh-century BC mold for making a sword from molten metal), and brief descriptions of local Roman history. If you plan to visit the Pileta Cave (see ”Sights near Ronda,” later), find the panels that describe the cave’s formation and shape. Linger in the two small gardens with wonderful panoramic views.
Cost and Hours: €3.50; Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat-Sun until 15:00, closes earlier off-season; on Plaza Mondragón, +34 952 870 818.
Nearby: Leaving the palace, wander left a few short blocks to the nearby Plaza de María Auxiliadora for more views and a look at the two rare pinsapos (resembling extra-large Christmas trees) in the middle of the park; this part of Andalucía is the only region in Europe where these ancient trees still grow.
Plaza de María Auxiliadora leads to the best Ronda view at sunset from a viewpoint where windmills once stood. Photographers go crazy reproducing the most famous postcard view of Ronda—the entirety of the New Bridge. Look for the tiled Puerta de los Molinos sign and head down, down, down. This pathway is not for the faint of heart, and a bad idea in the heat of the afternoon sun. Wait until just before sunset for the best light and cooler temperatures.
This tiny museum, while not as intriguing as it sounds, has an interesting assembly of bandolero photos, guns, clothing, knickknacks, and old documents and newspaper clippings. The Jesse Jameses and Billy el Niño of Andalucía called this remote area home. One brand of romantic bandits fought Napoleon’s army—often more effectively than the regular Spanish troops. The exhibits profile specific bandoleros and display books (from comics to pulp fiction) that helped romanticize these heroes of Spain’s “Old West.” The museum is a bit of a tourist trap—with every available space packed full of memorabilia, and a well-stocked gift shop—but helpful English descriptions make it a fun stop. A free 20-minute movie about bandoleros plays only in Spanish.
Cost and Hours: €4, daily 11:00-20:30, Oct-April until 19:00, across main street below Church of Santa María la Mayor at Calle Armiñan 65, +34 952 877 785, www.museobandolero.com.
Housed in an old palace, this fresh museum features an overview of the life’s work of Joaquín Peinado (1898-1975), a Ronda native and pal of Picasso. Because Franco killed creativity in Spain for much of the last century, nearly all of Peinado’s creative work was done in Paris. His style evolved through the big “isms” of the 20th century, ranging from Expressionism to Cubism, and even to eroticism. Peinado’s works follow the major trends of his time—understandable, as he was friends with one of the art world’s biggest talents. The short movie that kicks off the display is only in Spanish, though there are good English explanations throughout the museum. Find a famous Cubist version of Don Quixote upstairs and a few Picasso pieces downstairs. It’s an interesting modern art experience with no crowds, and fun to be exposed to a lesser-known but very talented artist in his hometown.
Cost and Hours: €4, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat until 15:00, closed Sun, Plaza del Gigante, +34 952 871 585, www.museojoaquinpeinado.com.
From the New Bridge you can descend down Cuesta de Santo Domingo (cross the bridge from the new town into the old, and take the first left just beyond the former Dominican convent, once the headquarters of the Inquisition in Ronda) into a world of whitewashed houses, tiny grilled balconies, and winding lanes—the old town. (Be ready for lots of ups and downs—this is not a flat walk.)
A couple of blocks steeply downhill (on the left), you’ll see the House of the Moorish King (Casa del Rey Moro). It was never home to a king; it was given its fictitious name by the grandson of President McKinley, who once lived here. Although the house is closed and its once-fine belle époque garden is overgrown, it does offer visitors entry to the “Mine,” an exhausting series of 280 slick, dark, and narrow stairs (like climbing down and then up a 20-story building) leading to the floor of the gorge. The Moors cut this zigzag staircase into the wall of the gorge in the 14th century to access water when under siege, then used Spanish slaves to haul water up to the thirsty town (€5, daily 10:00-20:00).
Fifty yards downhill from the garden is the Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra (Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra, closed to public). As part of the “distribution” of spoils following the Reconquista here in 1485, the Spanish king gave the land for this grand house to the Salvatierra family (who live here to this day). The facade is rich in colonial symbolism from Spanish America—note the pre-Columbian-looking characters (four Peruvian Indians) flanking the balcony above the door and below the family coat of arms.
Just below the palace, stop to enjoy the view terrace. Look below. There are two old bridges, with the Arab Baths just to the right.
Twenty steps farther down, you’ll pass through the Philip V gate, for centuries the main gate to the fortified city of Ronda. Continuing downhill, you come to the Old Bridge (Puente Viejo), rebuilt in 1616 upon the ruins of an Arabic bridge. Enjoy the views from the bridge (but don’t cross it yet—we’ll do that after visiting the baths below). Then continue down the old stairs past a small, Moorish-inspired electric substation. Swing around the little chapel at the bottom of the staircase to look back up to the highly fortified Moorish city walls. A few steps ahead is the oldest bridge in Ronda, the Arab Bridge (a.k.a. the San Miguel Bridge). For centuries, this was the main gate to the fortified city. In Moorish times, you’d purify both your body and your soul here before entering the city, so just outside the gate was a little mosque (now the chapel) and the Arab Baths.
The Arab Baths (Baños Árabes), worth ▲, are evocative ruins that warrant a quick look. They were located half underground to maintain the temperature and served by a donkey-powered water tower. You can still see the top of the shaft (30 yards beyond the bath rooftops, near a cypress tree, connected to the baths by an aqueduct). Water was hoisted from the river below to the aqueduct by ceramic containers that were attached to a belt powered by a donkey walking in circles. Inside the baths, two of the original eight columns scavenged from the Roman ruins still support brick vaulting (€3.50, free Tue 15:00-19:00; generally open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat-Sun until 15:00; shorter hours off-season). A delightful 10-minute video brings the entire complex to life—Spanish and English versions run alternately. Ask about the next English showing as you go in.
From here, hike back to the new town along the other side of the gorge: Climb back up to the Old Bridge, cross it, and take the brick stairs immediately on the left, which lead scenically along the gorge through the Jardines de Cuenca park. Leave the park going left and then uphill on Calle Virgen de los Remedios to the recommended Bar El Lechuguita. Stop for a much-deserved break here, then continue down Calle Rosario to return to the New Bridge.
Local Spanish guitar artist Paco Seco performs a 45-minute solo concert in a 50-seat theater in the back of his shop nearly every night at 19:00. It’s an intimate affair with Paco describing his three guitars (historic, classical, and flamenco) and the pieces he performs. Travelers who show this guidebook get a free glass of Ronda wine to enjoy during the show (be sure to ask, as Paco’s wife Lucy is happy to provide this to Rick Steves travelers). Seating is first-come, first-seated (Lucy puts your name on the chair). Buy tickets in person, by phone, or from the TI. The Ronda Guitar House is a half-block from the city park at Calle Mariano Soubiron 4 (concert-€15, shop open 10:00-21:00, closed in July, +34 951 916 843, www.rondaguitarhouse.com).
The Pileta Cave, set in a dramatic, rocky limestone ridge at the eastern edge of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, offers Spain’s most intimate look at Neolithic and Paleolithic paintings that are more than 30,000 years old. Farmer José Bullón and his family live down the hill from the cave—which was discovered by Bullón’s grandfather in 1905. The caves are open only to escorted groups, as guides (speaking English and Spanish) take up to 25 visitors at a time deep into the mountain. Because the number of cave visitors is strictly limited, Pileta’s rare paintings are among the best-preserved in the world.
Cost and Hours: €10; tours run year-round Mon-Fri at 11:30, 13:00, and 16:00; Sat-Sun at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, 16:00, and 17:00; also at 18:00 daily April-early Oct; €3 interpretive map, €10 guidebook; mobile +34 666 741 775 (phone answered 10:00-13:00), www.cuevadelapileta.org.
Reservations and Getting In: Call at least a day ahead, then arrive at least 15 minutes before your reserved time. Budget in a 10-minute steep hike to the ticket booth from the parking lot.
Getting There: Pileta Cave is 14 miles from Ronda, past the town of Benaoján, at the end of an access road. It’s particularly handy if you’re driving between Ronda and Grazalema.
From Ronda, you can get to the cave by taxi—it’s about a half-hour drive on twisty roads—and have the driver wait (€70 round-trip). If you’re driving, it’s easy: Leave Ronda through the new part of town and take A-374 towards Sevilla. After a few miles, exit left toward Benaoján on MA-7401. Go through Benaoján (MA-7401 changes names to MA-8400), then take a sharp left onto MA-8401 and follow signs (reading Cueva de la Pileta) to the cave. Leave nothing of value visible in your car.
Visiting the Cave: Arrive early and be flexible. Bring a sweater and sturdy shoes. You need a good sense of balance to take the tour. The 10-minute hike from the parking lot up a stone-stepped trail to the cave entrance is moderately steep. Inside the cave, it can be difficult to keep your footing on the slippery, uneven floor while being led single file, with only a lantern light illuminating the way.
As you walk the cool half-mile, your guide explains the black, ochre, and red drawings, which are more than 30,000 years old—that’s five times as old as the Egyptian pyramids. Among other animals, you’ll see horses, goats, cattle, and a rare giant fish, made from a mixture of clay and fat by finger-painting prehistoric people. Surprisingly, the plain-looking stick drawings in black are more recent than the discernible animal shapes. The 200-foot main hall is cavernous and feels almost sacred. Throughout the site, mineral monoliths look adorned in lace and drapery. Stalagmites and stalactites reach toward one another as they have for a million years or so in these caves, and some formations lend themselves to appropriate names like “The Organ” and “The Castle.”
Eating near the Cave: Nearby, the lovely village of Montejaque (much nicer than Benaoján) has several good restaurants clustered around the central square.
As the birthplace of modern bullfighting, Ronda attracts plenty of aficionados and even bullfighters themselves. Rafael Tejada worked as an engineer for many years but eventually switched gears to train as a bullfighter. In 2011, he bought land in the nearby serranía to raise horses, cows, and stud bulls, and now welcomes visitors to experience his working farm. A visit here allows you to get up close and personal with bulls and horses, as well as try out some matador skills in a practice ring (no bulls, no worries...just the capes). The two-hour option lets you also help the herdsman in one of his daily tasks, such as feeding the free-range bulls, and concludes with local wine and tapas.
Cost and Hours: €28/person for 70 minutes, €40/person for 2 hours, €90/person for 2-3 hour private tour; daily 10:00-19:00, until 18:00 off-season; reservations recommended, +34 951 166 008, www.reservatauro.com.
Getting There: Drivers should leave Ronda through the new part of town and take A-367 (Carretera Ronda-Campillos) toward Campillos. After about 5.5 miles, turn right into a stone gate marked by a small black-and-white, arrow-shaped sign labeled RESERVATAURO. If you’re visiting without a car, request a special taxi (€24) for round-trip transportation when you book your tour by phone or email.
Ronda has plenty of reasonably priced, decent-value accommodations. It’s crowded only during Holy Week (the week leading up to Easter) and the first week of September (for bullfighting season). Most of my recommendations are in the new town, a short stroll from the New Bridge and about a 10-minute walk from the train station. In cheaper places, ask for a room with a ventana (window) to avoid the few interior rooms. Breakfast is usually not included. If arriving by car, email your hotel for driving and parking instructions. For locations, see the “Ronda” map on here.
Clearly the best options in town, these hotels are worth reserving early. The first listing is right in the heart of the old town, while Alavera de los Baños is a steep 15- to 20-minute hike below, but still easily walkable to all the sights (if you’re in good shape) and in a bucolic setting.
$$ Soho Boutique Palacio San Gabriel has 22 pleasant rooms, a kind staff, public rooms filled with art and books, a cozy wine cellar, and a fine garden terrace. It’s a large 1736 labyrinth of a townhouse that’s been converted into a characteristic hotel, marinated in history. If you’re a cinephile, kick back in the charming TV room—with seats from Ronda’s old theater and a collection of DVD classics—then head to the breakfast room to check out photos of big movie stars (and, ahem, a certain travel writer) who have stayed here (RS%, air-con, incognito elevator, Calle Marqués de Moctezuma 19 at Plaza del Gigante, +34 952 190 392, www.sohohoteles.com, palaciosangabriel@sohohoteles.com).
$$ Alavera de los Baños, a delightful oasis located next to ancient Moorish baths at the bottom of the hill, has nine comfortable rooms, two spacious suites, and big inviting public places, with appropriately Moorish decor. This hotel offers a swimming pool, a peaceful Arabic garden, and an eclectic aura of Mediterranean, Moorish, and modern decor. Enjoy the pastoral views of the vast countryside and the horses just beyond the garden (includes breakfast, some rooms have balconies, free parking, closed mid-Dec-Jan, steeply below the heart of town at Calle Molino de Alarcón 2, +34 952 879 143, www.alaveradelosbanos.com, hotel@alaveradelosbanos.com, well run by personable Christian and Inma).
$$$ Hotel Montelirio perches on the cliffs of the western side of the Moorish quarter with dramatic views of the valley and the new town. The former 17th-century palace of a count, it feels both traditional and plush with its 15 classically tasteful rooms (the view rooms are worth the splurge) and its elegant common areas (air-con, elevator, pool, sun deck, terrace dining, Tenorio 8, +34 952 873 855, www.hotelmontelirio.com, recepcion@hotelmontelirio.com).
$ Hotel Ronda provides an interesting mix of minimalist and traditional Spanish decor in this refurbished mansion, which is both quiet and homey. Although its five rooms are without views, the small, lovely rooftop deck overlooks the town (air-con, Ruedo Doña Elvira 12, +34 952 872 232, www.hotelronda.net, reservas@hotelronda.net, some English spoken by kind and gentle Sra. Nieves).
More convenient than charming (except the Hotel Enfrente Arte Ronda—in a class all its own), these hotels put you in the thriving new town.
$$ Hotel Enfrente Arte Ronda, on the edge of things a steep 10- to 15-minute walk below the heart of the new town, is relaxed and funky. The 12 rooms are spacious and exotically decorated, but dimly lit. It features a sprawling maze of public spaces with offbeat and repurposed decor, a peaceful bamboo garden, a game and reading room, small swimming pool, sauna, and terraces with sweeping countryside views. Guests can help themselves to free drinks from the self-service bar or have their feet nibbled for free by “Dr. Fish.” This one-of-a-kind place is in all the guidebooks, so reserve early (includes buffet breakfast with home-baked bread, air-con, elevator, Calle Real 40, +34 952 879 088, www.enfrentearte.com, enfrentearte@gmail.com).
$$ Hotel Don Miguel, facing the gorge next to the bridge, can seem like staying in a cave, but it couldn’t be more central. Of its 30 sparse but comfortable rooms, 20 have gorgeous views. Street rooms come with a little noise (air-con, elevator, pay parking a block away, Plaza de España 4, +34 952 877 722, www.hoteldonmiguelronda.com, reservas@dmiguel.com).
$ Hotel Polo is a boutique gem run by the Puya family in the heart of the new town. Each of its 36 bright and spacious rooms features a watercolor painted by Miguel Puya. Inviting common spaces like the social “Food Corner” and the vast rooftop terrace provide a tranquil respite and cool views (family rooms, air-con, elevator, honesty bar, pay parking, Padre Mariano Souvirón 8, +34 952 872 447, www.hotelpolo.net, reservas@hotelpolo.net).
$ Hotel San Francisco offers 27 small, nicely decorated rooms and rooftop terrace a block off the main pedestrian street in the town center. Their public cafeteria doubles as the breakfast room (family rooms available, air-con, elevator, pay parking, María Cabrera 20, +34 952 873 299, www.hotelsanfrancisco-ronda.com, recepcion@hotelsanfrancisco-ronda.com).
$ Hotel Morales has 18 simple but prim-and-proper rooms, and friendly Lola helps you feel right at home. Interior rooms can be a bit dark, so request to be streetside. There’s little traffic at night (air-con, elevator, pay parking nearby, Sevilla 51, +34 952 871 538, www.hotelmorales.es, reservas@hotelmorales.es).
$ Hotel San Cayetano puts you in the heart of the evening paseo. With 22 basic, traditional Mediterranean rooms, it provides easy access to recommended restaurants on a pedestrian offshoot of the main drag (air-con, elevator, pay parking nearby, Sevilla 16, +34 952 161 212, www.hotelsancayetano.com, reservas@hotelsancayetano.com).
¢ Hotel Royal has a dark reception hall but friendly staff and 29 clean, spacious, simple rooms—many on the main street that runs between the bullring and bridge. Thick glass keeps out most of the noise, while the tree-lined Alameda del Tajo park is just across the way (air-con, pay parking, Calle Virgen de la Paz 42, +34 952 871 141, www.hotelroyalronda.es, reservas@hotelroyalronda.es).
A good base for visiting Ronda and the Pileta Cave (as well as Grazalema) is $$ Cortijo las Piletas. Nestled at the edge of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park (just a 15-minute drive from Ronda, with easy access from the main highway), this spacious family-run country estate has eight rooms and plenty of opportunities for exploring the surrounding area (includes breakfast, dinner offered some days—book in advance, mobile +34 605 080 295, www.cortijolaspiletas.com, info@cortijolaspiletas.com, Pablo and Elisenda). Another countryside option is $ Finca La Guzmana, run by Peter, an expat Brit. Six beautifully appointed pastel rooms surround an open patio at this renovated estate house (includes breakfast, mobile +34 600 006 305, www.laguzmana.com, info@laguzmana.com). Both hotels offer bird-watching, swimming, and hiking.
Plaza del Socorro, a block in front of the bullring, is an energetic scene, bustling with tourists and local families enjoying the square and its restaurants. The pedestrian-only Calle Nueva is lined with hardworking eateries. To enjoy a drink or a light meal with the best view in town, consider the terraces of Hotel Don Miguel just under the bridge.
Sweets: For coffee and pastries, locals like the elegant little $ Confitería Daver, where they say “once you step inside...it’s too late” (café open daily 8:00-20:30, Calle Virgen de los Remedios 6).
Groceries: The Día supermarket is conveniently in the new town (Mon-Sat 9:15-21:15, closed Sun, Calle Cruz Verde 18). Maskom is two blocks from Alameda del Tajo park (daily 9:30-21:30, Calle Molino 36).
Ronda has a fine tapas scene. You won’t get a free tapa with your drink as in some other Spanish towns, but these bars have accessible tapas lists, and they serve bigger plates. Each of the following places could make a fine solo destination for a meal, but they’re close enough that you can easily try more than one.
$$ Taberna El Almacén offers a modern take on traditional tapas from many Spanish regions in an industrial chic setting. Friendly, approachable staff can explain the day’s specials that are fuera de carta (not listed on the menu). Even veggie haters rave over their pisto—a type of ratatouille where all ingredients are first cooked separately, then mixed together and served with a fried egg on the side. This is a good spot to try local wines as well (Tue-Sat 13:00-16:00 & 20:30-23:00, Sun 13:00-16:00, closed Mon, Calle Virgen de los Remedios 7, +34 951 489 818).
$$ Tragatá serves creative and tasty tapas in a stainless-steel minimalist bar. There’s just a handful of tall tiny tables and some bar space inside, with patio seating on the pedestrian street (same menu), and an enticing blackboard of the day’s specials. You’ll pay more for it, but if you want to sample Andalusian gourmet (such as asparagus on a stick sprinkled with grated manchego cheese), this is the place to do it. Venture into their serious and pricier plates (daily 13:15-15:45 & 20:00-23:00, Calle Nueva 4, +34 952 877 209).
$$ Nueva 13, the latest entrant in the Calle Nueva tapa fest, serves up admirable and affordable raciones. Specials such as rabo de toro (bull’s-tail stew) and calamares (squid) are listed on the giant blackboard inside. Locals love to hang out at the bar, and postcards from previous international visitors adorn the walls. Tables spill onto the pedestrian lane—those with tablecloths are for the full menu, and the rest are for the bar menu (Tue-Sat 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, closed Mon, Calle Nueva 13, +34 952 190 090).
$ Bar El Lechuguita, a traditional hit with locals, serves a long and tasty list of €1 tapas. Rip off a tapas inventory sheet, cross-reference it with the laminated English translation, and mark which ones you want. Be adventurous and don’t miss the bar’s namesake, lechuguita (#16, a wedge of lettuce with vinegar, garlic, and a secret ingredient). The order-form routine makes it easy to communicate and get exactly what you like, plus you know the exact price. This place is small—just a bar and some stand-up ledges along the wall, plus some rustic tables with stools outside. Ideally, be there when the doors open and grab a spot at the bar (Mon-Sat 13:00-15:00 & 20:15-23:30, closed Sun, Calle Virgen de los Remedios 35).
$ Queso & Jamón is my pick for quality bocadillos (sandwiches) with your choice of cheeses and hams. Brothers Antonio and Paco can also advise you on different cured meats, dairy products, oils, and marmalades for a customized foodie picnic (Plaza de España 1, +34 952 877 114).
Away from the tourist crowds along Calle Salvador Carrasco, there’s a strip of bustling tapas bars that locals call the Pasillo Marítimo (Maritime Corridor). Pop into any of them for typical Spanish and Andalusian shareable bar snacks and local conversation.
$$ Camelot goes a step beyond with their sleek interior and tasty, great-value seafood and meat dishes. Ronderos like to say it’s “food from here for people from here” (Tue-Mon 12:00-16:00 & 20:00-23:00, closed Wed).
Ronda is littered with upscale-seeming restaurants that toe the delicate line between a good dinner spot and a tourist trap.
$$$ Restaurante Pedro Romero, though touristy and overpriced, is a venerable institution in Ronda. It’s named for Ronda’s most famous son, the first great bullfighter. Assuming a shrine to bullfighting draped in el toro memorabilia doesn’t ruin your appetite, rub elbows with the local bullfighters or dine with the likes (well, photographic likenesses) of Orson Welles, Ernest Hemingway, and Francisco Franco (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:30-23:00, air-con, across from bullring at Calle Virgen de la Paz 18, +34 952 871 110).
$$$ Meson El Sacristan is a well-respected restaurant serving classical and innovative dishes with a focus on meat (many prepared in the wood-fired oven). Their 12-hour rabo de toro oxtail stew is a favorite. It’s a good place to slow down—enjoy the helpful waiters and the rustic setting, either inside or on the quiet square. Their tasting menus are enticing, and the savory homemade croquetas are exceptional (Thu-Mon 11:30-23:00, Tue until 17:00, closed Wed and in extreme summer heat, reservations smart, Plaza Duquesa de Parcent 14, +34 952 875 684).
$$$$ Restaurante Bardal has the only Michelin star in town. Local-wonder chef Benito Gómez serves two tasting menus (16 tiny courses-€85, 20 courses-€100, wine extra). While almost comically fancy, this is a delicious experience featuring morsels based on local ingredients. Benito serves about 20 people each lunch and dinner, and all are treated like VIPs (Tue-Sat 12:00-16:30 & 20:00-23:30, closed Sun-Mon, reserve ahead, Calle José Aparicio 1, +34 951 489 828, www.restaurantebardal.com).
To entirely leave the quaint old town and bustling city center with all of its tourists and grand gorge views, hike 10 minutes out to the far end of the old town, past City Hall, to a big workaday square that goes about life as if the world didn’t exist outside Andalucía.
$$ Bar-Restaurante Almocábar is a favorite eatery for many Ronda locals. Its restaurant—a cozy eight-table room with Moorish tiles and a window to the kitchen—serves up tasty, creative, well-presented meals from a menu that’s well described in English (plus a handwritten list of the day’s specials). Many opt for the good salads—rare in Spain. At the bar up front, choose from gourmet tapas like the serranito (a pork, roast pepper, and tomato mini sandwich) or you can order from the dining-room menu (Wed-Mon 13:00-16:00 & 19:30-23:00, closed Tue, reservations smart, Calle Ruedo Alameda 5, +34 952 875 977).
$$$ Casa María is a delightful, family-run place managed by Elias and Isabel, daughter Maria, and Lucero the dog. There’s no menu—only the promise of a wonderful meal. Just sit down, and for €30 you’ll be treated to a full home-cooked feast: salad, vegetables, fish, meat, and dessert. It’s worth making a reservation for this adventure. In summer, their tables spill out onto the plaza (Wed-Mon 12:00-15:00 & 19:30-22:30, closed Tue, facing Plaza Ruedo Alameda at #27, +34 951 083 663).
$$ Bodega San Francisco is a rustic bar with homey restaurant seating upstairs and tables out front and on the square. They offer an accessible list of raciones and tapas, as well as serious plates and big splittable portions (long hours, closed Thu, same menu in bar and restaurant, Ruedo de Alameda 32, +34 952 878 162).
Some destinations are linked with Ronda by both bus and train. Direct bus service to other hill towns can be sparse (as few as one per day), and train service usually involves a transfer in Bobadilla. It’s worth spending a few minutes in the bus or train station on arrival to compare schedules and plan your departure (or pick up timetables at the TI). Your options improve from major transportation hubs such as Málaga.
From Ronda by Bus to: Algeciras (1/day, 3 hours, Comes), La Línea/Gibraltar (no direct bus, transfer in Algeciras; Algeciras to La Línea/Gibraltar—2/hour, 45 minutes, buy ticket on bus, Comes), Arcos (2/day, 2 hours, Comes), Grazalema (2/day, 1 hour, Damas), Zahara (2/day, Mon-Fri only, 45 minutes, Comes), Sevilla (7/day, 2.5 hours, fewer on weekends, Damas; also see trains), Málaga (15/day Mon-Fri, 8-10/day Sat-Sun, 2 hours, Damas; access other Costa del Sol points from Málaga), Marbella (6/day, 1.5 hours, Avanza), Nerja (4 hours, transfer in Málaga; can take train or bus from Ronda to Málaga, bus is better). If traveling to Córdoba, it’s easiest to take the train since there are no direct buses. Bus info: Damas (www.damas-sa.es), Avanza (www.avanzabus.com), and Comes (www.tgcomes.es).
By Train to: Algeciras (4/day, 2 hours), Málaga (1/day, 2.5 hours, 2 more with transfer in Bobadilla), Sevilla (4/day, 3 hours, transfer in Bobadilla, Córdoba, or Antequera), Granada (3/day, 2.5 hours), Córdoba (2/day direct, 2 hours; 2 more with transfer in Antequera, 2 hours), Madrid (2/day direct, 4 hours; more with transfer in Antequera). Any transfer is a snap and time-coordinated; with four trains arriving and departing simultaneously, double-check that you’re jumping on the right one. Train info: +34 912 320 320, www.renfe.com.
Ronda to the South Coast: Drivers who want to dip down to the coast from Ronda can catch A-397 and head over the mountains and down to San Pedro de Alcántara (about 30 miles/50 km). Many trucks use this route as well, so the going may be slow if following a convoy. The longer, winding A-369/A-377 route (about 50 miles/80 km) offers a scenic alternative to reach the coastal town of Estepona. You’ll go through gorgeous countryside and a series of whitewashed villages, but note that the A-377 stretch of this road (from Gaucín to the coast), while perfectly drivable, is in rough shape—expect to go slowly.
There are plenty of interesting hill towns to explore. Public transportation is frustrating, so I’d do these towns only by car. Useful information on the area is rare. Fortunately, a good map, the tourist brochure (pick it up in Sevilla or Ronda), and a spirit of adventure work fine.
Along with Arcos, Zahara de la Sierra and Grazalema are my favorite white villages. While Grazalema is a better overnight stop, Zahara is a delight for those who want to hear only the sounds of the wind, birds, and elderly footsteps on ancient cobbles.
This tiny town in a tingly setting under a Moorish castle (worth ▲ and the climb) has a spectacular view over a turquoise reservoir. While the big church facing the town square is considered one of the richest in the area, the smaller church has the most-loved statue. The Virgin of Dolores is Zahara’s answer to Sevilla’s Virgin of Macarena (and is similarly paraded through town during Holy Week).
The TI is located in the main plaza (closed Mon, gift shop, Plaza del Rey 3, +34 956 123 114, www.zaharadelasierra.es [URL inactive]). Upstairs from the TI are Spanish-only displays about the flora and fauna of nearby Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. A map posted nearby shows the tour and trail system.
Drivers can park for free in the main plaza, or continue up the hill to the parking lot at the base of the castle, just past the recommended Hotel Arco de la Villa. It’s one way up and one way down, so follow salida signs to depart. The street that connects both churches, Calle de San Juan, is lined with tapas bars and cafés.
Sights in Zahara: During Moorish times, Zahara lay within the fortified castle walls above today’s town. It was considered the gateway to Granada and a strategic stronghold for the Moors by the Christian forces of the Reconquista. Locals tell of the Spanish conquest of the Moors’ castle (in 1482) as if it happened yesterday: After the Spanish failed several times to seize the castle, a clever Spanish soldier noticed that the Moorish sentinel would check if any attackers were hiding behind a particular section of the wall by tossing a rock and setting the pigeons in flight. If they flew, the sentinel figured there was no danger. One night a Spaniard hid there with a bag of pigeons and let them fly when the sentinel tossed his rock. Upon seeing the birds, the guard assumed he was clear to enjoy a snooze. The clever Spaniard then scaled the wall and opened the door to let in his troops, who conquered the castle. Ten years later Granada fell, the Muslims were back in Africa, and the Reconquista was complete.
Skip the church, but it’s a fun climb up to the remains of the castle (free, tower always open). Start at the paved path across from the town’s upper parking lot. It’s a moderately steep 15-minute hike past some Roman ruins and along a cactus-rimmed ridge to the top, where you can enter the tower. Use your phone’s flashlight or feel along the stairway to reach the roof, and enjoy spectacular views from this almost impossibly high perch far above the town. As you pretend you’re defending the tower, realize that what you see is quite different from what the Moors saw: the huge lake dominating the valley is a reservoir—before 1991, the valley had only a tiny stream.
Sleeping and Eating in Zahara: $ Hotel Arco de la Villa is the town’s only real hotel (16 small modern rooms, Wi-Fi in common areas only, +34 956 123 230, www.tugasa.com [URL inactive], arco-de-la villa@tugasa.com). Its very good $ restaurant offers a reasonably priced menú del día, along with reservoir and mountain views.
A beautiful postcard-pretty hill town, Grazalema offers a royal balcony for a memorable picnic, a square where you can watch old-timers playing cards, and plenty of quiet whitewashed streets and shops to explore. Situated within Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, Grazalema is graced with lots of scenery and greenery. Driving here from Ronda on A-372, you pass through a beautiful parklike grove of cork trees. While the park is known as the rainiest place in Spain, it’s often just covered in a foggy mist. If you want to sleep in a small Andalusian hill town, this is a good choice.
The bare-bones TI is located at the car park at the cliffside viewpoint, Plaza de los Asomaderos. When open, it’s generally staffed with Spanish-only speakers who can give you a town map and not much else (closed Mon and some holidays, +34 956 132 052, better info online at www.grazalemaguide.com or http://turismograzalema.com [URL inactive]). Enjoy the view, then wander into the town.
A tiny lane leads a block from the center rear of the square to Plaza de Andalucía (filled by the tables of a commotion of tapas bars). Shops sell the town’s beautiful and famous handmade wool blankets and good-quality leather items from nearby Ubrique. A block farther uphill takes you to the main square with the church, Plaza de España. A coffee on the square here is a joy. Small lanes stretch from here into the rest of the town.
For outdoor gear and adventures, including hiking, caving, and canoeing, contact Horizon (summer Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-20:00, closed Sun, shorter hours off-season, off Plaza de España at Calle las Piedras 1, +34 956 132 363, mobile +34 655 934 565, www.horizonaventura.com).
Sleeping in Grazalema: $ La Mejorana Guesthouse is your best bet—if you can manage to get one of its six rooms. This beautifully perched garden villa, with royal public rooms, overlooks the valley from the top of town (includes breakfast, pool, on tiny lane below Guardia Civil headquarters at Santa Clara 6, +34 956 132 527, mobile +34 649 613 272, www.lamejorana.net, info@lamejorana.net, Ana and Andrés can help with local hiking options).
$ Hotel Peñón Grande, named for a nearby mountain, is just off the main square and rents 16 comfortable business-class rooms (air-con, Plaza Pequeña 7, +34 956 132 434, www.hotelgrazalema.com, hotel@hotelgrazalema.com).
¢ Casa de Las Piedras, just a block from the main square, has 16 comfortable en suite double rooms with air-con. The beds feature the town’s locally made wool blankets (RS% with 2-night minimum, Calle de las Piedras 32, +34 956 132 014, www.casadelaspiedras.es, reservas@casadelaspiedras.net, Caty and Rafi). They also rent nearby apartments that sleep 2-8 people; see details on their website.
Eating in Grazalema: Tiny Plaza de Andalucía has several good bars for tapas with umbrella-flecked tables spilling across the square, including $$ Zulema (big salads), $ La Posadilla, and $ La Cidulia. To pick up picnic supplies, head to the Eroski supermarket (Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, closed Sun, on Calle las Piedras 12).
$$ El Torreón specializes in local cuisine such as lamb and game dishes, and also has many vegetarian options. Diners are warmed by the woodstove while deer heads keep watch (Thu-Tue 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Wed, Calle Agua 44, +34 956 132 313).
$$ Mesón El Simancón serves well-presented cuisine typical of the region in a romantic setting. While a bit more expensive, it’s considered the best restaurant in town (Wed-Mon 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Tue, facing Plaza de los Asomaderos and the car park, +34 956 132 421).
$ Gastrobar La Maroma serves home-cooked regional specialties at affordable prices (Tue-Sat 12:00-16:00 & 19:30-22:30, Sun 13:00-17:00, closed Mon, Calle Santa Clara, near La Mejorana Guesthouse, mobile +34 617 543 756, José & María).
Grazalema Connections: By Bus to Ronda (2/day, 45 minutes), El Bosque (1/day, 45 minutes). Bus service is provided by Damas (www.damas-sa.es).
With more than 200,000 people, Jerez de la Frontera is your typical big-city mix of industry and dusty concrete suburbs, but it has a lively old center and two claims to touristic fame: horses and sherry. Jerez is ideal for a noontime visit on a weekday. See the famous horses, sip some sherry, wander through the old quarter, and swagger out. For the most efficient visit if arriving by bus or train, taxi from the train station right to the Royal Andalusian School for the equestrian performance, then walk around the corner to Sandeman’s for the next English tour.
Thanks to its complicated medieval street plan, there is no easy way to feel oriented in Jerez—so ask for directions liberally.
The helpful TI is on Plaza del Arenal (Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00 & 16:30-18:30, Sat-Sun 9:30-14:30, +34 956 338 874, www.turismojerez.com).
By Bus or Train: The bus and train stations are located side by side, near the Plaza del Minotauro (with enormous headless statue). Unfortunately, you can’t store luggage at either one. You can stow bags for free in the Royal Andalusian School’s guardaropa (coat room) if you attend their equestrian performance, but only for the duration of the show.
Cheap and easy taxis wait in front of the train station (€5 to TI; about €7 to the horses). Otherwise, it’s a 20-minute walk from the stations to the center of town and the TI: Angle across the brick plaza (in front of the stations, with two black smokestacks) to find Calle Diego Fernández de Herrera. Follow this street for several blocks until you reach a little square (Plaza de las Angustias). Leave the square at the far left side down Calle Corredera. In a few minutes you’ll arrive at Plaza del Arenal (ringed with palm trees, with a large fountain in the center); the TI is in the arcaded building across the plaza.
By Car from Arcos: Driving in Jerez can be frustrating. The outskirts are filled with an almost endless series of roundabouts. Continuing straight through each one (you’ll see a rail bridge) and follow traffic and signs to Centro Ciudad. The circuitous route will ultimately take you into Plaza Alameda Cristina; park in one of the many underground garages (at Plaza Alameda Cristina or Plaza Arenal, €2.20/hour) and catch a cab or walk. For street parking, blue-line zones require prepaid parking tickets on your dashboard (Mon-Fri 9:00-13:30 & 17:00-20:00, Sat 9:00-14:00, free on Sun and July-Aug afternoons).
If you’re into horses, a performance of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art (Fundación Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestre) is a must. Even if you’re not, this is art like you’ve never seen.
Getting There: From the bus or train stations to the horses, it’s about a €9 taxi ride. Taxis wait at the exit of the school for the return trip. One-way streets mean there is only one way to arrive by car: Follow signs to Real Escuela de Arte Ecuestre. Expect to make at least one wrong turn, so allow a little extra time. You’ll find plenty of free parking behind the school.
This is an equestrian ballet with choreography, purely Spanish music, and costumes from the 19th century. The stern riders and their talented, obedient steeds prance, jump, hop on their hind legs, and do-si-do in time to the music, all to the delight of an arena filled with mostly tourists and local horse aficionados.
The riders cue the horses with subtle dressage commands, either verbally or with body movements. You’ll see both purebred Spanish horses (of various colors, with long tails, calm personalities, and good jumping ability) and the larger mixed breeds (with short tails and a walking—not prancing—gait). The horses must be three years old before their three-year training begins, and most performing horses are male (stallions or geldings), since mixing the sexes brings problems.
The equestrian school is a university, open to all students in the EU, and with all coursework in Spanish. Although still a male-dominated activity, there have recently been a few female graduates. Tightly fitted mushroom hats are decorated with different stripes to show each rider’s level. Professors often team with students and evaluate their performance during the show.
Cost and Hours: €21 general seating, €27 “preference” seating; 1.5-hour shows run at 12:00 Tue and Thu (March-July and Nov-Dec), Tue and Thu-Fri (Aug-Oct), and Thu (Jan-Feb), additional shows one Sat a month (twice in June-July); +34 956 922 580, best to purchase in advance online at www.realescuela.org. General seating is fine; some “preference” seats are too close for good overall views. The show explanations are in Spanish.
The public can get a sneak preview at training sessions on nonperformance days. Sessions can be exciting or dull, depending on what the trainers are working on. Afterward, you can take a 1.5-hour guided tour of the stables, horses, multimedia and carriage museums, tack room, gardens, and horse health center. Sip sherry in the arena’s bar to complete this Jerez experience.
Cost and Hours: €11, Mon 10:00-14:00 plus Wed and Fri Nov-July, last entry at 12:00, tours depart when a large enough group forms. A shorter €6.50 tour covers only the museums and saddlery.
Spain produces more than 10 million gallons per year of the fortified wine known as sherry. The name comes from English attempts to pronounce Jerez. Although sherry was traditionally the drink of England’s aristocracy, today’s producers have left the drawing-room vibe behind. Your tourist map of Jerez is speckled with venencia symbols, each representing a sherry bodega that offers tours and tasting. (Venencias are specially designed ladles for dipping inside the sherry barrel, breaking through the yeast layer, and getting to the good stuff.) For all the bodegas, it’s smart to confirm tour times before you go, as schedules can be changeable.
Although founded in 1998, this winery continues family winemaking traditions that date back to 1650. Their guided tours do a remarkable job of explaining the sometimes difficult-to-understand method of producing sherry. Aficionados claim that their award-winning sherries are not to be missed. Art lovers will get an extra treat: a museum-worthy private collection of works by Murillo, Velázquez, El Greco, Zurburán, Goya, and many others.
Cost and Hours: €35 for 1.5-hour tour, includes 5 sherries, always available in English for up to 12 people; Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00; July-Aug daily 8:00-15:00; reservations required, private tours available, Calle Cordobeses 3, +34 956 168 618, www.bodegastradicion.com.
Spanish sherry is not just the sweet dessert wine sold in the States as sherry. In Spain, sherry is (most commonly) a chilled and very dry fortified white wine, often served with appetizers such as tapas, seafood, and cured meats.
British traders invented the sherry-making process as a way of transporting wines so they wouldn’t go bad on a long sea voyage. Some of the most popular brands (such as Sandeman and Osbourne) were begun by Brits, and for years it was a foreigners’ drink. But today, sherry is typically Spanish.
Sherry is made by blending wines from different grapes and vintages, all aged together. Start with a strong, acidic wine (from grapes that grow well in the hot, chalky soil around Jerez). Mature it in large vats until a yeast crust (flor) forms on the surface, protecting the wine from the air. Then fortify it with distilled alcohol.
Next comes sherry-making’s distinct solera process. Pour the young fortified wine into the top barrel of a unique contraption—a stack of oak barrels called a criadera. Every year, one-third of the oldest sherry (in the barrels on the ground level) is bottled. To replace it, one-third of the sherry in the barrel above is poured in, and so on. This continues until the top barrel is one-third empty, waiting to be filled with the new year’s vintage.
Fino is the most popular type of sherry (and the most different from Americans’ expectations)—white, dry, and chilled. The best-selling commercial brand of fino is Tío Pepe; manzanilla is a regional variation of fino, as is montilla from Córdoba. Darker-colored and more complex varieties of sherry include amontillado and oloroso. And yes, Spain also produces the thick, sweet cream sherries served as dessert wines. A good raisin-y, syrupy-sweet variety is Pedro Ximénez (often marked just “PX”), made from sun-dried grapes of the same name.
Founded in the 1960s by a family with 200 years of winemaking experience, this bodega has become a powerhouse, focusing on producing amazing sherry, brandies, and vinegars. Of note are their Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximénez varieties.
Cost and Hours: €15 for tour and tasting; English tours available Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00—reservations required; Jardinillo 7, +34 956 182 454, www.fernandodecastilla.com, bodegas@fernandodecastilla.com.
Just around the corner from the equestrian school is the venerable Sandeman winery, founded in 1790 and the longtime drink of English royalty. This tour is the aficionado’s choice for its knowledgeable guides and their quality explanations of the process. Each stage is explained in detail, with visual examples of flor (the yeast crust) in backlit barrels, graphs of how different blends are made, and a quick walk-through of the bottling plant. The finale is a chance to taste three varieties.
Cost and Hours: €10 regular sherries, €15 rare sherries, €10 adds tapas to the tasting, tour/tasting lasts 1-1.5 hours; English tours run Mon-Fri 3/day, fewer in winter, Sat by appointment only, closed Sun and all of Jan—check schedules online; reservations not required, Calle Pizarro 10, mobile +34 675 647 177, www.sandeman.com.
The makers of the famous Tío Pepe offer a tourist-friendly tour, with more pretense and less actual sherry-making on display (that’s done in a new, enormous plant outside town). But the grand circle of sherry casks signed by a Who’s Who of sherry drinkers is worthwhile. Taste two sherries at the end of the 1.5-hour tour.
Cost and Hours: €16 for tour/tasting, €19 for light tapas lunch with tour; tours run Mon-Sat at 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, and 17:00; Sun at 12:00, 13:00, and 14:00; Manuel María González 12, +34 956 357 016. Drivers can park in the underground Alameda Vieja lot at the skippable Alcázar (€2.10/hour).
You’ll come across many other sherry bodegas in town, including Fundador, located near the cathedral. This bodega, founded by Pedro Domecq, is the oldest in Jerez and the birthplace of the city’s brandy. Tastings here are generous (€12, €6 extra for cheese with tastings; Mon-Fri at 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00, also at 20:00 May-Sept, Sat at 12:00 only; Calle San Ildefonso 3, +34 956 151 552, www.grupoemperadorspain.com).
Jerez’s bus station is shared by multiple bus companies, each with its own schedule. The big ones serving most southern Spain destinations are Damas (www.damas-sa.es), Comes (www.tgcomes.es), and Socibus (https://socibusventas.es). Shop around for the best departure time and most direct route. While here, clarify routes for any further bus travel you may be doing in Andalucía—especially if you’re going through Arcos de la Frontera, where the ticket office is often closed. Also try Movelia.es for bus schedules and routes.
From Jerez by Bus to: Tarifa (1/day on Algeciras route, 2.5 hours, more frequent with transfer in Cádiz, Socibus), Algeciras (1/day, 2.5 hours, Socibus) Arcos (hourly, 40 minutes, Damas), Ronda (2/day, 2.5-3 hours), La Línea/Gibraltar (1/day, 2.5 hours), Sevilla (4/day, 1-1.5 hours), Granada (1/day, 4.5 hours).
By Train to: Sevilla (hourly, 1 hour), Madrid (5/day direct, 4 hours; nearly hourly with change in Sevilla, 4 hours), Barcelona (nearly hourly, 7-8 hours, all with change in Sevilla and/or Madrid). Train info: tel.+34 912 320 320, www.renfe.com.
If you’re driving between Arcos and Tarifa, here are several sights to explore.
This breeding farm, which raises Hispanic Arab horses according to traditions dating back to the 15th century, offers a 2-hour guided visit and show on Saturday at 11:00 (€23 for best seats in tribuna section, €17 for seats in the stands, Finca Fuente del Suero, Carretera Medina-El Portal, +34 956 162 809, www.yeguadacartuja.com). From Jerez, take the road to Medina Sidonia, then turn right in the direction of El Portal—you’ll see a cement factory on your right. Drive for five minutes until you see the farm.
This town is as whitewashed as can be, surrounding its church and hill, which is topped with castle ruins. I never drive through here without a coffee break and a quick stroll. Signs to centro urbano route you through the middle to Plaza de España (lazy cafés, bakery, plenty of free parking just beyond the square out the gate). If it’s lunchtime, consider buying a picnic, as all the necessary shops are nearby and the plaza benches afford a solid workaday view of a perfectly untouristy Andalusian town. According to its own TI, the town is “much appreciated for its vast gastronomy.” Small lanes lead from the main square up to Plaza Iglesia Mayor, where you’ll find the church and TI (+34 956 412 404, www.medinasidonia.com). At the church, an attendant will show you around for a tip. Even without giving a tip, you can climb yet another belfry for yet another vast Andalusian view. The castle ruins just aren’t worth the trouble.
Vejer, south of Jerez and just 30 miles north of Tarifa, will lure all but the very jaded off the highway. Vejer’s strong Moorish roots give it a distinct Moroccan (or Greek Island) flavor—you know, black-clad women whitewashing their homes, and lanes that can’t decide if they’re roads or stairways. The town has no real sights—other than its remarkable views—and very little tourism, making it a pleasant stop. The TI is at Calle de los Remedios 2 (+34 956 451 736, www.turismovejer.es).
The coast near Vejer has a lonely feel, but its pretty, windswept beaches are popular with windsurfers and sand flies. The Battle of Trafalgar was fought just off Cabo de Trafalgar (only a nondescript lighthouse today). I drove the circle so you don’t have to.
Sleeping in Vejer: A newcomer on Andalucía’s tourist map, the old town of Vejer has just a few hotels. $$ Hotel La Botica de Vejer provides 13 comfortable rooms in what was once a local apothecary. Homey decor and view patios add to the charm (Calle Canalejas 13, near Plaza de España, +34 956 450 225, www.laboticadevejer.com). $$ Hotel Convento San Francisco is a poor-man’s parador with spacious rooms in a refurbished convent (Calle Plazuela, +34 956 451 001, www.tugasa.com [URL inactive]), while ¢ Hostal La Posada is family-run place in a modern apartment flat (Calle de los Remedios 21, +34 956 450 258, www.hostal-laposada.com, no English spoken).
