RESERVATIONS, ADVANCE TICKETS, AND PASSES
Map: Iberia’s Public Transportation
TAXIS AND RIDE-BOOKING SERVICES
This chapter covers the practical skills of European travel: how to get tourist information, pay for things, sightsee efficiently, find good-value accommodations, eat affordably but well, use technology wisely, and get between destinations smoothly. For more information on these topics, see RickSteves.com/travel-tips.
Spain’s national tourist office in the US will fill brochure requests and answer your general travel questions by email (newyork.information@tourspain.es). Scan their website (www.spain.info) for practical information and sightseeing ideas; you can download many brochures free of charge. If you’re going to Barcelona, also see www.barcelonaturisme.cat.
In Spain, a good first stop is generally the Oficina de Turismo, the tourist information office (abbreviated TI in this book). TIs are in business to help you enjoy spending money in their town—which can color their advice—but I still swing by to pick up a city map, and get information on public transit, walking tours, special events, and nightlife. Some TIs have information on the entire country or at least the region, so try to pick up maps and printed info for destinations you’ll be visiting later in your trip.
Travel Advisories: For updated health and safety conditions, including any restrictions for your destination, consult the US State Department’s international travel website (www.travel.state.gov).
Emergency and Medical Help: For any emergency service—ambulance, police, or fire—call 112 from a mobile phone or landline (operators typically speak English). If you get sick, do as the locals do and go to a pharmacist for advice. Or ask at your hotel for help—they’ll know the nearest medical and emergency services.
ETIAS Registration: The European Union may soon require US and Canadian citizens to register online with the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) before entering Spain and other Schengen Zone countries (quick and easy process). For the latest, check www.etiasvisa.com.
Theft or Loss: To replace a passport, you’ll need to go in person to an embassy or consulate (see next). If your credit and debit cards disappear, cancel and replace them (see “Damage Control for Lost Cards” on here). File a police report, either on the spot or within a day or two; you’ll need it to submit an insurance claim for lost or stolen rail passes or electronics, and it can help with replacing your passport or credit and debit cards. For more information, see RickSteves.com/help.
US Embassy: Madrid—passport and non-emergency services by appointment only, Mon-Fri 08:00-13:00, +34 915 872 200 (Calle de Serrano 75, https://es.usembassy.gov).
US Consulates: Barcelona—non-emergency services by appointment only, Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00, +34 932 802 227, after-hours emergency +34 915 872 200 (Passeig de la Reina Elisenda de Montcada 23, https://es.usembassy.gov); Sevilla—no emergency passport services, +34 954 218 751 (Plaza Nueva 8B, https://es.usembassy.gov).
Canadian Embassy: Madrid—passport services by appointment only, Mon-Thu 8:30-17:30, Fri and Aug weekdays 8:30-14:30, +34 913 828 400 (in Torre Espacio skyscraper at Paseo de la Castellana 259D, www.espana.gc.ca [URL inactive]).
Canadian Consulate: Barcelona—passport services by appointment only, Mon-Fri 9:00-12:30, +34 932 703 614, after-hours emergency in Ottawa—call collect +1 613 996 8885 (Plaça de Catalunya 9, www.spain.gc.ca, click “Contact Us,” then “Consulate of Canada in Barcelona”).
Time Zones: Spain, like most of continental Europe, is generally six/nine hours ahead of the East/West coasts of the US. The exceptions are the beginning and end of Daylight Saving Time: Europe “springs forward” the last Sunday in March (two weeks after most of North America), and “falls back” the last Sunday in October (one week before North America). For a handy time converter, use the world clock app on your phone or download one (see www.timeanddate.com).
Business Hours: For visitors, Spain is a land of strange and frustrating schedules. Many businesses respect the afternoon siesta. When it’s 100 degrees in the shade, you’ll understand why. The biggest museums stay open all day. Smaller ones often close for a siesta. Shops are generally open from about 9:30 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 21:00, longer for big chain shops or touristy places. Small shops are often open on Saturday only in the morning, and closed all day Sunday.
Watt’s Up? Europe’s electrical system is 220 volts, instead of North America’s 110 volts. Most electronics (laptops, phones, cameras) and appliances (newer hair dryers, CPAP machines) convert automatically, so you won’t need a converter, but you will need an adapter plug with two round prongs, sold inexpensively at travel stores in the US. Avoid bringing older appliances that don’t automatically convert voltage; instead, buy a cheap replacement in Europe.
Discounts: Discounts for sights are generally not listed in this book. However, seniors (age 65 and over), youths under 18, and students and teachers with proper identification cards (obtain from www.isic.org) can get discounts at many sights—always ask. Some discounts are available only to European citizens.
Online Translation Tips: Google’s Chrome browser instantly translates websites; Translate.google.com and DeepL.com are also handy. The Google Translate app converts spoken or typed English into most European languages (and vice versa) and can also translate text it “reads” with your phone’s camera.
Going Green: There’s plenty you can do to reduce your environmental footprint when traveling. When practical, take a train instead of a flight within Europe, and use public transportation within cities. In hotels, use the “Do Not Disturb” sign to avoid daily linen and towel changes (or hang up your towels to signal you’ll reuse them). Bring a reusable shopping tote and refillable water bottle (Europe’s tap water is safe to drink). To find out how Rick Steves’ Europe is offsetting carbon emissions with an innovative self-imposed carbon tax, go to RickSteves.com/about-us/climate-smart.
Here’s my basic strategy for using money in Europe:
• Upon arrival, head for an ATM at the airport and withdraw some local currency, using a debit card with low international transaction fees.
• In general, pay for bigger expenses with a credit card and use cash for smaller purchases. Use a debit card for cash withdrawals.
• Keep your cards and cash safe in a money belt.
Although credit cards are widely accepted in Europe, cash is sometimes the only way to pay for street food, taxis, tips, and local guides. Some businesses (especially smaller ones, such as B&Bs and mom-and-pop cafés and shops) may charge you extra for using a credit card—or might not accept credit cards at all. Having cash on hand helps you out of a jam if your card randomly doesn’t work.
I use my credit card to book hotel reservations, to buy advance tickets for events or sights, and to cover most other expenses.
I pack the following and keep it all safe in my money belt.
Debit Card: Use this at ATMs to withdraw local cash.
Credit Card: Handy for bigger transactions (at hotels, shops, restaurants, travel agencies, car-rental agencies, and so on), payment machines, and online purchases.
Backup Card: Some travelers carry a third card (debit or credit; ideally from a different bank), in case one gets lost or simply doesn’t work.
A Stash of Cash: I carry $100-200 in US dollars as a cash backup, which comes in handy in an emergency (for example, if your ATM card gets eaten by the machine).
What NOT to Bring: Resist the urge to buy euros before your trip or you’ll pay the price in bad stateside exchange rates. Wait until you arrive to withdraw money. European airports have plenty of ATMs.
Use this pre-trip checklist.
Know your cards. US debit cards with a Visa or MasterCard logo will work in any European ATM. As for credit cards, Visa and MasterCard are universal, American Express is less common, and Discover is unknown in Europe.
Know your PIN. Make sure you know the numeric, four-digit PIN for all of your cards, both debit and credit. Request it if you don’t have one, as it may be required for some purchases in Europe (see “Using Credit Cards,” later), and allow time to receive the information by mail.
Report your travel dates. Let your bank know that you’ll be using your debit and credit cards in Europe, and when and where you’re headed.
Adjust your ATM withdrawal limit. Find out how much you can take out daily and ask for a higher daily withdrawal limit if you want to get more cash at once. Note that European ATMs will withdraw funds only from checking accounts, not savings accounts.
Ask about fees. For any purchase or withdrawal made with a card, you may be charged a currency conversion fee (1-3 percent) and/or a Visa or MasterCard international transaction fee (less than 1 percent). If you’re getting a bad deal, consider getting a new debit or credit card. Reputable no-fee cards include those from Capital One, as well as Charles Schwab debit cards. Most credit unions and some airline loyalty cards have low or no international transaction fees.
European cash machines have English-language instructions and work just like they do at home—except they spit out local currency instead of dollars, calculated at the day’s standard bank-to-bank rate.
In most places, ATMs are easy to locate—in Spain ask for a cajero automático. When possible, withdraw cash from a bank-run ATM located just outside that bank.
If your debit card doesn’t work, try a lower amount—your request may have exceeded your withdrawal limit or the ATM’s limit. If you still have a problem, try a different ATM or come back later.
Avoid “independent” ATMs, such as Travelex, Euronet, Moneybox, Your Cash, Cardpoint, and Cashzone. These have high fees, can be less secure, and may try to trick users with “dynamic currency conversion” (see next).
When paying with a credit card, you’ll often be asked whether you want to pay in dollars or in the local currency. Always refuse the conversion and choose the local currency. While DCC seems convenient, it comes with a poor exchange rate, and you’ll wind up losing money. Many ATMs also offer DCC—again, always select “continue without conversion.”
Minimize exchanging money in Europe; it’s expensive (you’ll generally lose 5 to 10 percent). In a pinch you can find exchange desks at major train stations or airports. Banks generally do not exchange money unless you have an account with them.
US credit cards generally work fine in Europe—with a few exceptions.
European cards use chip-and-PIN technology; most chip cards issued in the US instead require a signature. When presented with a US card, European card readers may generate a receipt for you to sign—or prompt you to enter your PIN. At self-service payment machines (such as transit-ticket kiosks), US cards may not work. In this case, look for a cashier who can process your card manually—or pay in cash.
“Tap to pay” cards and smartphone payment apps work in Europe just as they do in the US, and sidestep chip-and-PIN compatibility issues.
Drivers Beware: Drivers may encounter automated pay points (tollbooths, parking meters, gas pumps, etc.) where US cards are not accepted. Carry cash as a back-up and be prepared to move on to the next gas station if necessary (in some countries, gas stations sell prepaid gas cards, which you should be able to purchase with any US card). When approaching a toll plaza, use the lane labeled “cash” or “manual.”
Pickpockets target tourists. Keep your cash, credit cards, and passport secure in your money belt, and carry only a day’s spending money in your front pocket or wallet.
Before inserting your card into an ATM, inspect the front. If anything looks crooked, loose, or damaged, it could be a sign of a card-skimming device. When entering your PIN, carefully block other people’s view of the keypad.
Don’t use a debit card for purchases. Because a debit card pulls funds directly from your bank account, potential charges incurred by a thief will stay on your account while the fraudulent use is investigated by your bank.
While traveling, to access your accounts online, be sure to use a secure connection (see the “Tips on Internet Security” sidebar, later).
If you lose your credit or debit card, report the loss immediately to the respective global customer-assistance centers. With a mobile phone, call these 24-hour US numbers: Visa (+1 303 967 1096), MasterCard (+1 636 722 7111), and American Express (+1 336 393 1111). From a landline, you can call these US numbers collect by going through a local operator.
You’ll need to provide the primary cardholder’s identification-verification details (such as birth date, mother’s maiden name, or Social Security number). You can generally receive a temporary card within two or three business days in Europe (see RickSteves.com/help for more).
If you report your loss within two days, you typically won’t be responsible for unauthorized transactions on your account, although many banks charge a liability fee.
Tipping in Spain isn’t as automatic and generous as in the US. For special service, tips are appreciated, but not expected. As in the US, the proper amount depends on your resources, tipping philosophy, and the circumstances, but some general guidelines apply.
Restaurants: If eating at the counter of a tapas bar, there’s no need to tip, though it’s respectable to round up the bill. At restaurants with table service, if a service charge is included in the bill, add about 5 percent; if it’s not, leave 10-15 percent. For more details on tipping in restaurants and tapas bars, see here and here.
Taxis: For a typical ride, just round up your fare a bit (for instance, if the fare is €4.85, pay €5). If the cabbie hauls your bags and zips you to the airport to help you catch your flight, you might want to toss in a little more.
Services: In general, if someone in the tourism or service industry does a super job for you, a small tip of a euro or two is appropriate...but not required. If you’re not sure whether (or how much) to tip, ask a local for advice.
Wrapped into the purchase price of your Spanish souvenirs is a Value-Added Tax (VAT) of 21 percent (in Spain, it’s called IVA—Impuesto sobre el Valor Añadido). You’re entitled to get most of that tax back if you purchase more than €90 worth of goods at a store that participates in the VAT-refund scheme. Typically, you must ring up the minimum at a single retailer—you can’t add up your purchases from various shops to reach the required amount. (If the store ships the goods to your US home, VAT is not assessed on your purchase.)
Getting your refund is straightforward...and worthwhile if you spend a significant amount.
At the Merchant: Have the merchant completely fill out the refund document (they’ll ask for your passport; a photo of your passport usually works). Keep track of the paperwork and your original sales receipt. Note that you’re not supposed to use your purchased goods before you leave Europe.
At the Border or Airport: Process your VAT document at your last stop in the European Union (such as at the airport) with the customs agent who deals with VAT refunds. At some airports, you’ll have to go to a customs office to get your documents stamped and then to a separate VAT refund service (such as Global Blue or Planet) to process the refund. At other airports, a single VAT desk handles the whole thing. Note that refund services typically extract a 4 percent fee and can refund your money in cash immediately or credit your card. Otherwise, you’ll need to mail the stamped refund documents to the address given by the merchant. Allow plenty of extra time at the airport to deal with the VAT refund process.
You can take home $800 worth of items per person duty-free, once every 31 days. Many processed and packaged foods are allowed, including vacuum-packed cheeses, dried herbs, jams, baked goods, candy, chocolate, oil, vinegar, condiments, and honey. Fresh fruits and vegetables and most meats are not allowed, with exceptions for some canned items. As for alcohol, you can bring in one liter duty-free (it can be packed securely in your checked luggage, along with any other liquid-containing items).
To bring alcohol (or liquid-packed foods) in your carry-on bag on your flight home, buy it at a duty-free shop at the airport. You’ll increase your odds of getting it onto a connecting flight if it’s packaged in a “STEB”—a secure, tamper-evident bag. But stay away from liquids in opaque, ceramic, or metallic containers, which usually cannot be successfully screened (STEB or no STEB).
For details on allowable goods, customs rules, and duty rates, visit http://help.cbp.gov.
Sightseeing can be hard work. Use these tips to make your visits to Spain’s finest sights meaningful, fun, efficient, and painless.
A good map is essential for efficient navigation while sightseeing. The maps in this book are concise and simple, designed to help you locate recommended destinations, sights, hotels, and restaurants. Simple maps are generally free at TIs and hotels.
You can also use a mapping app on your mobile device, which provides turn-by-turn directions for walking, driving, and taking public transit. Google Maps, Apple Maps, and CityMaps2Go allow you to download maps for offline use; ideally, download the areas you’ll need before your trip. For certain features, you’ll need to be online—either using Wi-Fi or an international data plan.
Set up an itinerary that allows you to fit in all your must-see sights. For a one-stop look at opening hours, see this book’s “At a Glance” sidebars for major destinations (Barcelona, Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Sevilla, Camino de Santiago, and Basque Country). Most sights keep stable hours, but you can easily confirm the latest by checking with the TI or visiting museum websites.
Don’t put off visiting a must-see sight—you never know when a place will close unexpectedly for a holiday, strike, or restoration. Many museums are closed or have reduced hours at least a few days a year, especially on holidays such as Christmas, New Year’s, and Labor Day (May 1). A list of holidays is in the appendix; check for possible closures during your trip. In summer, some sights may stay open late. Off-season hours may be shorter.
Going at the right time helps avoid crowds. This book offers tips on the best times to see specific sights. Try visiting popular sights very early or very late. Evening visits (when possible) are usually peaceful, with fewer crowds. Late morning is usually the worst time to visit a popular sight.
Several cities offer sightseeing passes that are worthwhile values for serious sightseers; do the math to see if they’ll save you money.
If you plan to hire a local guide, reserve ahead by email. Popular guides can get booked up.
Study up. To get the most out of the sight descriptions in this book, read them before you visit.
Given how precious your vacation time is, I recommend getting reservations for any must-see sight that offers them (see here).
To deal with lines, many popular sights sell advance tickets that guarantee admission at a certain time of day, or that allow you to skip entry lines. It’s worth giving up some spontaneity to book in advance. While hundreds of tourists sweat in long ticket-buying lines—or arrive to find the sight sold out—those who’ve booked ahead are assured of getting in. In some cases, getting a ticket in advance simply means buying your ticket earlier on the same day. But for other sights, you may need to book weeks or even months in advance. As soon as you’re ready to commit to a certain date, book it.
Here’s what you can typically expect:
Entering: You may not be allowed to enter if you arrive too close to closing time. And guards start ushering people out well before the actual closing time, so don’t save the best for last.
Many sights have a security check. Allow extra time for these lines. Some sights require you to check daypacks and coats. (If you’d rather not check your daypack, try carrying it tucked under your arm like a purse as you enter.)
At churches—which often offer interesting art (usually free) and a cool, welcome seat—a modest dress code (no bare shoulders or shorts) is encouraged though rarely enforced.
Photography: If the museum’s photo policy isn’t clearly posted, ask a guard. Generally, taking photos without a flash or tripod is allowed. Some sights ban selfie sticks; others ban photos altogether.
Audioguides and Apps: I’ve produced free, downloadable audio tours for neighborhood walks in Barcelona, Madrid, and Sevilla; look for the 
in this book. For more on my audio tours, see here.
Many sights rent audioguides with dry-but-useful recorded descriptions in English. If you bring your own earbuds, you can often enjoy better sound. And if you don’t mind being tethered to your travel partner, you’ll save money by bringing a Y-jack and sharing one audioguide. Museums and sights often offer free apps that you can download to your mobile device (check their websites).
Temporary Exhibits: Museums may show special exhibits in addition to their permanent collection. Some exhibits are included in the entry price, while others come at an extra cost (which you may have to pay even if you don’t want to see the exhibit).
Expect Changes: Artwork can be on tour, on loan, out sick, or shifted at the whim of the curator. Pick up a floor plan as you enter, and ask the museum staff if you can’t find a particular item. Say the title or artist’s name, or point to the photograph in this book, and ask, “¿Dónde está?” (DOHN-day eh-STAH; meaning, “Where is?”).
Services: Important sights usually have a reasonably priced on-site café or cafeteria (handy and air-conditioned places to rejuvenate during a long visit). The WCs at sights are free and generally clean.
Before Leaving: At the gift shop, scan the postcard rack or thumb through a guidebook to be sure you haven’t overlooked something that you’d like to see. Every sight or museum offers more than what is covered in this book. Use the information I provide as an introduction—not the final word.
Extensive and opinionated listings of good-value rooms are a major feature of this book’s Sleeping sections. Rather than list accommodations scattered throughout a town, I choose hotels in my favorite neighborhoods that are convenient to your sightseeing.
My recommendations run the gamut, from dorm beds to fancy rooms with all the comforts. I like places that are clean, central, relatively quiet at night, reasonably priced, friendly, small enough to have a hands-on owner or manager, and run with a respect for Spanish traditions. I’m more impressed by a handy location and fun-loving philosophy than flat-screen TVs and a fancy gym. Most of my recommendations fall short of perfection. But if I can find a place with most of these features, it’s a keeper.
In Spain, high season (temporada alta) is from July to September—except for a dip in August in hot inland cities like Madrid and Salamanca. Low season (temporada baja) runs from November through March. Barcelona can be busy any time of year with festivals and trade fairs. Book your accommodations as soon as your itinerary is set, especially if you want to stay at one of my top listings or if you’ll be traveling during busy times (such as Semana Santa—Holy Week—particularly in the south). See the appendix for a list of major holidays and festivals.
Some people make reservations a few days ahead as they travel. This approach fosters spontaneity, and booking sites make it easy to find available rooms, but—especially during busy times—you run the risk of settling for lesser-value accommodations.
I’ve categorized my recommended accommodations based on price, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Room prices can fluctuate significantly with demand and amenities (size, views, room class, and so on), but relative price categories remain constant. Hoteliers are encouraged to quote prices with the IVA tax included—but it’s smart to ask when you book your room.
Room rates are especially volatile at hotels that use “dynamic pricing” to set rates. Prices can skyrocket during festivals and conventions, while business hotels can have deep discounts on weekends when demand plummets. Of the many hotels I recommend, it’s difficult to say which will be the best value on a given day—until you do your homework.
Booking Direct: Once your dates are set, compare prices at several hotels. You can do this by checking hotel websites and booking sites such as Hotels.com or Booking.com. After you’ve zeroed in on your choice, book directly with the hotel itself. This increases the chances that the hotelier will be able to accommodate special needs or requests (such as shifting your reservation). And when you book by phone or email, the owner avoids the commission paid to booking sites, giving them wiggle room to offer you a discount, a nicer room, or a free breakfast.
Getting a Discount: Some hotels extend a discount to those who pay cash or stay longer than three nights. And some accommodations offer a special discount for Rick Steves readers, indicated in this guidebook by the abbreviation “RS%.” Discounts vary: Ask for details when you reserve. Generally, to qualify for this discount, you must book direct (not through a booking site), mention this book when you reserve, show this book upon arrival, and sometimes pay cash or stay a certain number of nights. In some cases, you may need to enter a discount code (which I’ve provided in the listing) in the booking form on the hotel’s website. Rick Steves discounts apply to readers with either print or digital books. Understandably, discounts do not apply to promotional rates.
In this book, the price for a double room ranges from about $60 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to $400 (maximum plumbing and more), with most clustering at about $150.
Some hotels can add an extra bed (for a small charge) to turn a double into a triple; some offer larger rooms for four or more people (I call these “family rooms” in the listings). If there’s space for an extra cot, they’ll cram it in for you. In general, a triple room is cheaper than the cost of a double and a single. Three or four people can economize by requesting one big room.
Spain has stringent restrictions on smoking in public places. Smoking is not permitted in common areas, but hotels can designate 10 percent of their rooms for smokers.
Arrival and Check-In: Hotels and B&Bs are sometimes located on the higher floors of a multipurpose building with a secured door. In that case, look for your hotel’s name on the buttons by the main entrance. When you ring the bell, you’ll be buzzed in.
Hotel elevators are common, though small, and some older buildings still lack them. You may have to climb a flight of stairs to reach the elevator (if so, you can ask the front desk for help carrying your bags up).
The EU requires that hotels collect your name, nationality, and ID number. When you check in, the receptionist will normally ask for your passport and may keep it for up to a couple of hours. If you’re not comfortable leaving your passport at the desk for a long time, bring a color copy to give them instead.
If you’re arriving in the morning, your room probably won’t be ready. Check your bag safely at the hotel and dive right into sightseeing.
In Your Room: Most hotel rooms have a TV, telephone, and free Wi-Fi (although in old buildings with thick walls, the Wi-Fi signal might be available only in the lobby). Simpler places rarely have a room phone.
Some hotels don’t use central heat before November 1 and after April 1 (unless it’s unusually cold); prepare for cool evenings if you travel in spring and fall. Summer can be extremely hot. Consider air-conditioning, fans, and noise (since you’ll want your window open). Many rooms come with mini refrigerators. Conveniently, expensive business-class hotels in big, nonresort cities often drop their prices in July and August, just when the air-conditioned comfort they offer is most important.
Checking Out: While it’s customary to pay for your room upon departure, it can be a good idea to settle your bill the day before, when you’re not in a hurry and while the manager’s in.
Hotelier Help: Hoteliers can be a good source of advice. Most know their city well and can assist you with everything from public transit and airport connections to finding a good restaurant, the nearest launderette, or a late-night pharmacy.
Hotel Hassles: Even at the best places, mechanical breakdowns occur: Sinks leak, hot water turns cold, toilets may gurgle or smell, the Wi-Fi goes out, or the air-conditioning dies when you need it most. Report your concerns clearly and calmly at the front desk.
Light sleepers struggle more in Spain than just about anywhere in Europe. Street noise is loud (Spaniards are notorious night owls, and traffic can rumble and screech until very late), and walls and doors tend to be very thin. Earplugs are a necessity. Always ask to see your room first. If you suspect night noise will be a problem, request a quiet (tranquilo) room in the back, on the courtyard, and/or on an upper floor (planta alta). In most cases, view rooms (con vista) come with street noise. You’ll often sleep better and for less money in a room without a view.
To guard against theft in your room, keep valuables out of sight. Some rooms come with a safe, and other hotels have safes at the front desk. I’ve never bothered using one and in a lifetime of travel, I’ve never had anything stolen from my room.
For more complicated problems, don’t expect instant results. Any legitimate place in Spain is legally required to have a complaint book (libro de reclamaciones). A request for this book will generally prompt the hotelier to solve your problem to keep you from writing a complaint. Above all, keep a positive attitude. If your hotel is a disappointment, spend more time out enjoying the place you came to see.
Budget hotels—called hostales and pensiones—are easy to find, inexpensive, and, when chosen properly, a fun part of the Spanish cultural experience. These places are often family-owned, and may or may not have amenities such as private bathrooms and air-conditioning. Don’t confuse a hostal with a hostel—a Spanish hostal is an inexpensive hotel, not a hostel with bunks in dorms.
Spain has a system of luxurious, government-sponsored, historic inns called paradores. These are often renovated castles, palaces, or monasteries, many with great views and stately atmospheres. While full of Old World character, they are usually run in a sterile, bureaucratic way. They are generally pricier than hotels but do offer discounts for travelers 30 and younger, and 55 and older ($100-300 doubles; for details, bonus packages, and family deals, see www.parador.es). If you’re not eligible for any deals, you’ll get a better value by sleeping in what I call “poor-man’s paradores”—elegant hotels that offer double the warmth and Old World intimacy for half the price of these palaces.
Located mainly in rural areas throughout Spain, casas rurales can be furnished rooms, whole farmhouses, villas, or sprawling ranches. Some are simple, but others are luxurious, and they are mostly used by Spaniards, so you’ll really be going local. Many are in the countryside, so you will need a car. For more information and reservations, try www.ecoturismorural.com or www.micasarural.com.
A short-term rental—whether an apartment, house, or room in a local’s home—is an increasingly popular alternative, especially if you plan to settle in one location for several nights. For stays longer than a few days, you can usually find a rental that’s comparable to—and cheaper than—a hotel room with similar amenities. Plus, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes peek into how locals live.
Many places require a minimum stay and have strict cancellation policies. And you’re generally on your own: There’s no reception desk, breakfast, or daily cleaning service.
Finding Accommodations: Websites such as Airbnb, FlipKey, Booking.com, and the HomeAway family of sites (HomeAway, VRBO, and VacationRentals) let you browse a wide range of properties. In Barcelona, you can check to see if your choice is licensed by visiting the www.fairtourism.barcelona website. Alternatively, rental agencies such as InterhomeUSA.com and RentaVilla.com [URL inactive] can provide a more personalized service (their curated listings are also more expensive).
Before you commit, be clear on the location. I like to virtually “explore” the neighborhood using Google Street View. Also consider the proximity to public transportation and how well-connected the property is with the rest of the city. Ask about amenities (elevator, laundry, Wi-Fi, parking, etc.). Reviews from previous guests can help identify trouble spots.
Think about the kind of experience you want: Just a key and an affordable bed...or a chance to get to know a local? Some hosts offer self-check-in and minimal interaction; others enjoy interacting with you. Read the description and reviews to help shape your decision.
Confirming and Paying: Many places require you to pay the entire balance before your trip, usually through the listing site. Be wary of owners who want to take your transaction offline; this gives you no recourse if things go awry. Never agree to wire money (a key indicator of a fraudulent transaction).
Apartments or Houses: If you’re staying in one place several nights, it’s worth considering an apartment or rental house (shorter stays aren’t worth the hassle of arranging key pickup, buying groceries, etc.). Apartment and house rentals can be especially cost-effective for groups and families. European apartments, like hotel rooms, tend to be small by US standards. But they often come with laundry facilities and small, equipped kitchens, making it easier and cheaper to dine in.
Rooms in Private Homes: Renting a room in someone’s home is a good option for those traveling alone, as you’re more likely to find true single rooms—with just one single bed, and a price to match. These can range from air-mattress-in-living-room basic to plush-B&B-suite posh. While you can’t expect your host to also be your tour guide—or even to provide you with much info—some are interested in getting to know the travelers who pass through their home.
Other Options: Swapping homes with a local works for people with an appealing place to offer (don’t assume where you live is not interesting to Europeans). Good places to start are HomeExchange.com and LoveHomeSwap.com. To sleep for free, Couchsurfing.com is a vagabond’s alternative to Airbnb. It lists millions of outgoing members, who host fellow “surfers” in their homes.
A hostel (albergue juvenil) provides cheap beds in dorms where you sleep alongside strangers for about €20-30 per night. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don’t mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Most hostels offer kitchen facilities, guest computers, Wi-Fi, and a self-service laundry. Hostels almost always provide bedding, but the towel’s up to you (though you can usually rent one). Family and private rooms are often available.
Independent hostels tend to be easygoing, colorful, and informal (no membership required; www.hostelworld.com). You may pay slightly less by booking directly with the hostel. Official hostels are part of Hostelling International (HI) and share an online booking site (www.hihostels.com). HI hostels typically require that you be a member or else pay a bit more per night.
Spanish cuisine is hearty, and meals are served in big, inexpensive portions. You can eat well in restaurants for about €15-20—or even more cheaply and more varied if you graze on appetizer-sized tapas in bars.
For listings in this guidebook, I look for restaurants that are convenient to your hotel and sightseeing. When restaurant-hunting, choose a spot filled with locals, not the place with the big neon signs boasting, “We Speak English and Accept Credit Cards.” And avoid any restaurant that posts big photographs of its food. Venturing even a block or two off the main drag leads to higher-quality food for a better price.
The Spanish eating schedule—lunch from 13:00 to 16:00, dinner after 21:00—frustrates many visitors. Most Spaniards eat one major meal of the day—lunch (comida)—around 14:00, when stores close, schools let out, and people gather with their friends and family for the siesta. Because most Spaniards work until 19:30, supper (cena) is usually served at about 21:00 or 22:00. And, since few people want a heavy meal that late, many Spaniards eat a light tapas dinner.
Generally, no self-respecting casa de comidas (“house of eating”—when you see this label, you can bet it’s a good, traditional eatery) serves meals at American hours. If you’re looking for a “nontouristy restaurant,” remember that a spot filled with tourists at 20:00 will be an entirely different—and more authentic—scene at 22:00, when the locals take over.
Survival Tips for Spanish Eating Schedules: To bridge the gap between their coffee-and-roll breakfast and late lunch, many Spaniards eat a light meal at about 11:00 (merienda). This can be a light lunch at a bar or a bocadillo (baguette sandwich)—hence the popularity of fast-food bocadillo chains such as Pans & Company. Besides bocadillos, bars often have slices of tortilla española (potato omelet) and fresh-squeezed orange juice. For your main meal of the day, you can either eat a late lunch at a restaurant at around 15:00, then have a light tapas snack for dinner; or reverse it, having a tapas meal in the afternoon, followed by a late restaurant dinner. Either way, tapas bars are the key to eating well at any hour.
I’ve categorized my recommended eateries based on the average price of a typical main course, indicated with a dollar-sign rating (see sidebar). Obviously, expensive specialties, fine wine, appetizers, and dessert can significantly increase your final bill.
The categories also indicate the personality of a place: Budget eateries include street food, takeaway, order-at-the-counter shops, basic cafeterias, and bakeries selling sandwiches. Moderate eateries are nice (but not fancy) sit-down restaurants, ideal for a straightforward, fill-the-tank meal. Most of my listings fall in this category—great for a good taste of local cuisine at a reasonable price.
Pricier eateries are a notch up, with more attention paid to the setting, presentation, and (often inventive) cuisine. Splurge eateries are dress-up-for-a-special-occasion swanky—typically with an elegant setting, polished service, and pricey and intricate cuisine.
Hotel breakfasts are generally handy, optional, and pricey. Start your day instead at a corner bar or at a colorful café near a market hall. Ask for the desayunos (breakfast special, usually only available until noon), which can include coffee, a roll (or sandwich), and juice—much cheaper than ordering them separately. Sandwiches can either be on white bread (called “sandwich”) or on a baguette (bocadillo).
A basic and standard savory breakfast item is tostada con aceite, toasted bread with olive oil (and often with a tomato/garlic spread called pan con tomate). For something more substantial, look for a slice of tortilla española (potato omelet). In Andalucía, get your morning protein with the mollete con jamón y aceite, a soft bread roll with Spanish ham and olive oil (and sometimes cheese).
Those with a sweet tooth will find various sweet rolls (bollos or bollería). If you like a doughnut and coffee in American greasy-spoon joints, try the Spanish equivalent: churros (or the thicker porras) that you dip in thick hot chocolate or your café con leche.
Here are some other key breakfast words (some with their Catalan variant):
Bikini: Grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich (popular in Catalunya)
Bocadillo (bocata) con jamón/queso/mixto: Baguette sandwich with ham/cheese/both
Bocadillo (bocata) mixto con huevo: Baguette sandwich with ham and cheese and an over-easy egg on top
Caracola: “Snail”-shaped pastry, similar to a cinnamon roll
Croissant a la plancha: Croissant grilled and slathered with butter
Palmera: Palm-shaped pastry, like a French palmier or “elephant ear”
Pan (pa) de molde/de barra: Bread (sandwich bread/baguette)
Rosquilla: Hard doughnut
Sandwich, tostado: White bread sandwich, toasted
Tortilla española (truita de patates): Potato omelet
While Spain’s tapas bars offer small plates throughout the afternoon and evening, formal restaurants have a standard à la carte menu (no tapas) and start their service much later than the American norm. But many eateries blur the distinction between a bar and a restaurant, boasting both a bar in front and some sit-down tables in the back or outside on the terraza.
Don’t expect “My name is Carlos and I’ll be your waiter tonight” cheery service. Service is often serio—it’s not friendly or unfriendly...just white-shirt-and-bow-tie proficient.
At both restaurants and bars, smoking is banned in enclosed public spaces.
Ordering: While menus at formal restaurants are generally broken down by courses or categories, more casual eateries (and tapas bars) may feature dishes served in portions called raciones (racions in Catalan), or the smaller half-servings, media-raciones (mitja racions in Catalan). Smaller tapas plates are more commonly served at bars than at sit-down restaurants.
Typically, couples or small groups can share a few raciones, making this an economical way to eat and a great way to explore the regional cuisine. Ordering media-raciones may cost a bit more per ounce, but you’ll broaden your tasting experience. Two people can fill up on four media-raciones.
For a budget meal in a restaurant, try a plato combinado (combination plate), which usually includes portions of one or two main dishes, a vegetable, and bread for a reasonable price; or the menú del día (menu of the day), a substantial three- to four-course meal that comes with a drink.
Spanish cuisine has many regional specialties (see “Spanish Regional Specialties” sidebar), but the most famous Spanish dish is probably paella. Featuring saffron-flavored rice as a background for seafood, chicken, peppers, or whatever the chef wants to mix in, an authentic paella takes time to prepare—expect a wait. In a tapas bar, jump (like everyone else) at the opportunity to snare a small plate of paella when it appears hot out of the kitchen. Avoid the paella shown in pretty pictures on a separate menu—it’s from the microwave.
Spanish cuisine can be a bit meat-centered for Americans more accustomed to salads, fruits, and grains. Main meat and fish courses are usually served with only a garnish, not a side of vegetables. Good vegetarian and lighter options exist, but you’ll have to seek them out. The secret is to choose the creamed vegetable soup, parrillada de verduras (sautéed vegetables), ensalada mixta, or other green option available as a first course. (Spaniards rarely eat salads as a main course, so they tend to be small and simple—just lettuce, tomatoes, and maybe olives and tuna.) Fruit is often considered a dessert and a healthy choice at the end of a meal.
Tipping: At restaurants with table service, a service charge is sometimes included in the bill (servicio incluido; servei inclós in Catalan). Spaniards traditionally tipped nothing or next to nothing beyond that, but times are changing. There’s a growing tendency to tip for good service, especially in cities like Barcelona. Leaving 10-15 percent for excellent service is appreciated. Tip in cash—there’s generally no option for adding a tip to your bill when paying with a credit card. At most places, you can leave the tip on the table. At an outdoor café, hand the tip to your server to avoid having it swiped by a passerby.
The staple of Spanish cuisine, jamón (hah-MOHN) is prosciutto-like ham that’s dry-cured and aged. It’s generally sliced thin (right off the hock) and served at room temperature. Jamón can be eaten straight, served in a bocadillo sandwich, or mixed into a wide variety of dishes. Bars proudly hang ham hocks from the rafters as part of the decor. Jamón is more than a food—it’s a way of life. Spaniards treasure memories of Grandpa at Christmas, thinly carving a jamón supported in a special ham-hock holder, just as Americans savor the turkey carving at Thanksgiving.
Like connoisseurs of fine wine, Spaniards debate the merits of different breeds of pigs, the pig’s diet, and the quality of the curing. The two major types of ham are jamón serrano, from white pigs whose meat is cured in the mountains of Spain, and the higher-quality jamón ibérico, made with the back legs of black-hooved pigs. These Iberian pata negra (“black foot”) pigs are said to be fatter and happier (slaughtered much later than other pigs), thereby producing particularly fine ham. Another indication of quality is de bellota, which means the pig was raised on acorns. Jamón ibérico de bellota is, to Spanish eaters, as good as it gets: free-range, black-footed pigs who ate only acorns. (Ham labeled Jamón ibérico de recebeo or de cebo is still good, but comes from pigs that are grain-fed.)
To sample this delicacy without the high price tag you’ll find in bars and restaurants, go to the local market. Ask for 100 grams of top-quality ham (cien gramos de jamón ibérico; about €80/kilo, so your ración will run about €8), and enjoy it as a picnic with red wine and a baguette. To round out the picnic, also pick up 100 grams each of salchichón (salami), chorizo (spicy sausage), and manchego or cabrales cheese, along with some olives and pickles.
I can’t resist stopping in local tapas bars to munch on tasty small portions of seafood, meat-filled pastries, deep-fried morsels, and other delicious bites (typically costing around €4). Best of all, I can eat well any time of day in a tapas bar.
Chasing down a particular bar for tapas nearly defeats the purpose and spirit of such places—they are impromptu. Just drop in at any lively bar. Some are sit-down, while others are more stand-up. I look for the noisy spots with lots of customers, the TV blaring soccer games or Spanish soaps, and piles of napkins and food debris on the floor (it’s considered unsanitary to put trash back on the bar; go local and toss your napkins on the floor, too).
There is nothing wrong with ordering a tapa or two to start before deciding whether to stay at the same bar or move on. In fact, Spaniards rarely settle into just one place. Part of the joy of eating at a tapas bar is turning it into a mobile feast, visiting two or three bars during a single meal.
The authentic tapas experience is not for shrinking violets. You’ll elbow up to a bar crowded with pushy locals, squint at a hand-scrawled chalkboard menu, and try to order from a typically brusque bartender. In some locales, a small, free tapa may be included with your drink. (Notice what locals are being served.) Order your drink first with the expectation of the freebie; then order additional food as you like.
Basque-style bars have an array of tapas (called pintxos or pinchos) already laid out and can be less intimidating, as you simply point to or grab what you want. To find this type of bar, look for a place with vasca or euskal (both mean “Basque”) in the name.
When to Go: Bars can be extremely crowded with locals, and visitors can find it hard to get in an order—or even find a place to sit. You’ll have more room, and get better service, by showing up before the local crowd. Try to be there by 13:30 for lunch, and 20:00-20:30 for dinner. For less competition at the bar, go on a Monday or Tuesday.
Where to Sit: Eating and drinking at a bar is usually cheapest if you sit or stand at the counter (barra). You may pay a little more to sit at a table (mesa or salón) and still more for an outdoor table (terraza). Traditionally, tapas are served at the bar, and raciones (and media-raciones) are served at tables, where food can be shared family style. If you’re eating a free tapa with your drink, you can’t occupy a table.
It’s bad form to order food at the bar, then take it to a table. If you’re standing and a table opens up, it’s OK to move as long as you signal to the waiter; anything else you order will be charged at the higher mesa/salón price. In the right place, a quiet snack and drink on a terrace is well worth the extra charge. But the cheapest seats sometimes get the best show. Sit at the bar and study your bartender—he’s an artist.
Ordering: To figure out what you want, read the posted or printed menu. Use the “Tapas Menu Decoder,” earlier, to sort through your options. You can also just point to items in the display case or at your neighbor’s plate to get what you want. Handwritten signs that start out “Hay” mean “Today we have,” as in “Hay caracoles” (“Today we have snails”).
Hang back and observe before ordering. When you’re ready, be assertive or you’ll never be served. Your bartender isn’t a “waiter”—he wants to take your order, period. To grab his attention, say “por favor” (please; “si us plau” in Catalan); you can also say “perdona” (excuse me; “perdó” in Catalan). To ask for the price of a dish, say “¿Cuánto cuesta una tapa?” (“Quant costa una tapa?” in Catalan).
Some bars push raciones (dinner plate-sized) portions rather than smaller tapas (saucer-sized). Ask for the smaller tapas portions or a media-ración (listed as ½ ración on a menu)—that way you can try more things.
If you don’t know what to order, try an inexpensive sampler plate. Ask for una tabla de canapés variados to get a plate of various little open-faced sandwiches. Or ask for a surtido de (an assortment of) charcutería (a mixed plate of meat) or queso (cheese). Un surtido de jamón y queso means a plate of different hams and cheeses. Order bread and two glasses of red wine on the right square, and you’ve got a romantic (and inexpensive) dinner for two.
Paying and Tipping: Don’t worry about paying until you’re ready to leave; the bartender is keeping track of your tab. To get the bill, ask for “¿La cuenta?” (“El compte?” in Catalan). If you’re sampling tapas at a counter, there’s no need to tip (though you can round up the bill).
In Spain, desserts are often an afterthought; here are a few items you may see on menus or in a bakery window:
Arroz con leche: Rice pudding
Bamba de nata: Cream puff
Brazo de gitano: Sponge cake filled with butter cream; literally “Gypsy’s arm”
Crema catalana: Catalan take on crème brûlée (Barcelona)
Flan de huevo: Flan (crème caramel)
Fruta de la estación/fruta de temporada: Fruit in season
Helados, variados: Ice cream, various flavors
Mel i mató: Light Catalan cheese with honey (Barcelona)
Músic de fruits secs: Selection of nuts and dried fruits (Barcelona)
Napolitana: Rolled pastry, filled with chocolate (similar to French pain au chocolat) or crema (cream)
Queso: Cheese
Torrijas: Sweet fritters, like French toast, available during Lent and Easter
Spain is one of the world’s leading producers of grapes, and that means lots of excellent wine, both red (tinto) and white (blanco). Major wine regions include Valdepeñas (both red and white wines made in Don Quixote country south of Toledo); Penedès (cabernet-style wines from near Barcelona); Rioja (spicy, lighter reds from the tempranillo grape, from the high plains of northern Spain); and Ribera del Duero (reds from northwest of Madrid).
For a basic glass of red wine, you can order un tinto. But for quality wine, ask for un crianza (old), un reserva (older), or un gran reserva (oldest). For good, economical wine, I always ask for un crianza—for little or no extra money than a basic tinto, you’ll get a quality, aged wine.
Cava is Spain’s answer to champagne. For variety, consider ordering a tinto de verano (red wine with lemon soda—similar to sangria) or try a local vermut (vermouth, generally sweet). For nondrinkers, mosto is excellent Spanish grape juice that hasn’t been fermented (available in both red and white).
Sherry, a fortified wine from the Jerez region, is a shock to the taste buds if you’re expecting a sweet dessert drink. Named for its city of origin, jerez ranges from dry (fino) to sweet (dulce)—Spaniards drink the fino and export the dulce (mostly to the UK and the Netherlands in the form of cream sherry). You’ll also see amontillado and manzanilla sherries; both are variants of fino. ¡Salud! Cheers!
Spaniards rarely ask for a “cerveza.” Instead, they usually specify a size or type when ordering, such as a caña (small draft beer).
Most places just have the standard local beer—a light lager—on tap. Cruzcampo—which is very light so that hot, thirsty drinkers can consume more—is big in the south, whereas San Miguel is big in the north, and Madrid’s Mahou is the choice in central Spain. In Barcelona, local options include Estrella Damm, the trendier Moritz, and various craft beers. One of the most-appreciated Spanish lagers is Estrella Galicia, from the Galicia region.
Caña (canya): Small glass of draft beer (7-8 ounces)
Cerveza (cervesa): Beer
Cerveza sin (Cervesa sense): Nonalcoholic beer
Clara con limón/casera: Small beer with lemonade/soda (shandy)
Doble: Typically double the size of a caña
Mediana: Bottle of beer (quinto is a small bottle)
Sidra: Dry, alcoholic cider
Tubo: Tall, thin glass of beer (about 10 ounces)
If ordering mineral water in a restaurant, request a botella de agua grande (big bottle). For a glass of tap water, specify un vaso de agua del grifo. If you insist on del grifo, not embotellada (bottled), you’ll usually get it. Note that tap water in Barcelona does not taste particularly good, and some places would rather not serve it to their customers (though it is safe to drink).
Spain’s bars often serve fresh-squeezed orange juice. For something completely different, try the sweet and milky horchata, traditionally made from chufa (a.k.a. tigernuts or earth almonds).
Here are some common additional beverage phrases (with Catalan variants where applicable):
Agua con/sin gas (aigua amb/sin gas): Water with/without bubbles
Café con leche (café amb llet): Espresso with hot milk
Café solo: Shot of espresso, sometimes with hot water added
Cortado (tallat): Espresso with a little milk
Jarra de agua: Pitcher of tap water
Leche: Milk
Refresco (Refresc): Soft drink (common brands are Coca-Cola, Fanta—limón or naranja, and Schweppes—limón or tónica)
Té/infusion: Tea
Zumo: Juice
Zumo de naranja, natural: Orange juice, freshly squeezed
One of the most common questions I hear from travelers is, “How can I stay connected in Europe?” The short answer is: more easily and affordably than you might think.
The simplest solution is to bring your own device—phone, tablet, or laptop—and use it just as you would at home (following the money-saving tips described later, such as getting an international plan or connecting to free Wi-Fi whenever possible). Another option is to buy a European SIM card for your US mobile phone. Or you can use European landlines and computers to connect. More details are at RickSteves.com/phoning. For a very practical one-hour talk covering tech issues for travelers, see RickSteves.com/mobile-travel-skills.
Here are some budget tips and options.
Sign up for an international plan. To stay connected at a lower cost, sign up for an international service plan through your carrier. Most providers offer a simple bundle that includes calling, messaging, and data. Your normal plan may already include international coverage (T-Mobile’s does).
Before your trip, research your provider’s international rates. Activate the plan a day or two before you leave, then remember to cancel it when your trip’s over.
Use free Wi-Fi whenever possible. Unless you have an unlimited-data plan, save most of your online tasks for Wi-Fi (pronounced wee-fee in Spanish). Most accommodations in Europe offer free Wi-Fi. Many cafés (including Starbucks and McDonald’s) offer hotspots for customers; ask for the password when you buy something. You may also find Wi-Fi at TIs, city squares, major museums, public-transit hubs, airports, and aboard trains and buses.
Minimize the use of your cellular network. The best way to make sure you’re not accidentally burning through data is to put your device in “airplane” mode (which also disables phone calls and texts), and connect to Wi-Fi networks as needed. When you need to get online but can’t find Wi-Fi, simply turn on your cellular network (or turn off airplane mode) just long enough for the task at hand.
Even with an international data plan, wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to Skype, download apps, stream videos, or do other megabyte-greedy tasks. Using a navigation app such as Google Maps over a cellular network can require lots of data, so download maps when you’re on Wi-Fi, then use the app offline.
Limit automatic updates. By default, your device constantly checks for a data connection and updates app contents. Check your device’s menu for ways to turn this off, and change your email settings from “auto-retrieve” to “manual” (or from “push” to “fetch”).
Use Wi-Fi calling and messaging apps. Skype, WhatsApp, FaceTime, and Google Hangouts are great for making free or low-cost calls or sending texts over Wi-Fi worldwide. Just log on to a Wi-Fi network then connect with friends or family members who use the same service. If you buy credit in advance, with some services you can call or text anywhere for just pennies.
Buy a European SIM card. If you anticipate making a lot of local calls, need a local phone number, or your provider’s international data rates are expensive, consider buying a SIM card in Europe to replace the one in your (unlocked) US phone or tablet. SIM cards are sold at department-store electronics counters, some newsstands, and vending machines (you may need to show your passport). If you need help setting it up, buy one at a mobile-phone shop. There are generally no roaming charges when using a European SIM card in other EU countries, but confirm when you buy.
It’s less convenient but possible to travel in Europe without a mobile device. You can make calls from your hotel, and check email or get online using public computers.
Most hotels charge a fee for placing calls—ask for rates before you dial. You can use a prepaid international phone card (tarjeta telefónica con código, usually available at newsstands, tobacco shops, and train stations) to call out from your hotel. Dial the toll-free access number, enter the card’s PIN code, then dial the number.
Here’s how to dial from anywhere in the US or Europe, using the phone number of one of my recommended Madrid hotels as an example (915 212 900).
Phone numbers in this book are presented exactly as you would dial them from a US mobile phone. For international access, press and hold the 0 key until you get a + sign, then dial the country code (34 for Spain) and phone number.
To call the Madrid hotel from any location, dial +34 915 212 900.
Replace + with 011 (US/Canada international access code), then dial the country code (34 for Spain) and phone number.
To call the Madrid hotel from your home landline, dial 011 34 915 212 900.
Replace + with 00 (Europe international access code), then dial the country code (34 for Spain, 1 for the US) and phone number.
To call the Madrid hotel from a German landline, dial 00 34 915 212 900.
To call my US office from a Spanish landline, dial 00 1 425 771 8303.
To place a domestic call (from a Spanish landline or mobile), drop +34 from the phone number.
To call the Madrid hotel from Barcelona, dial 915 212 900.
Local Numbers: European phone numbers and area codes can vary in length and spacing, even within the same country. Mobile phones use separate prefixes (for instance, in Spain, landlines begin with 8 or 9, and mobile numbers begin with 6 or 7). Some European phone numbers begin with 0; if dialing internationally, drop this 0 (except when calling Italy).
Toll and Toll-Free Calls: It’s generally not possible to dial European toll or toll-free numbers from a US mobile or landline (although you can sometimes get through using Skype). Look for a direct-dial number instead.
Calling the US from a US Mobile Phone, While Abroad: Dial +1, area code, and number.
More Phoning Help: See HowToCallAbroad.com.
Some hotels have public computers in their lobbies for guests to use; otherwise you can find them at public libraries (ask your hotelier or the TI for the nearest location). On a European keyboard, use the “Alt Gr” key to the right of the space bar to insert the extra symbol that appears on some keys. If you can’t locate a special character (such as @), simply copy and paste it from a web page.
You can mail one package per day to yourself worth up to $200 duty-free from Europe to the US (mark it “personal purchases”). If you’re sending a gift to someone, mark it “unsolicited gift.” For details, visit www.cbp.gov, select “Travel,” and search for “Know Before You Go.” The Spanish postal service works fine, but for quick transatlantic delivery (in either direction), consider services such as DHL (www.dhl.com).
Figuring out how to get around in Europe is one of your biggest trip decisions. Cars work well for two or more traveling together (especially families with small kids), those packing heavy, and those delving into the countryside. Trains and buses are best for solo travelers, blitz tourists, city-to-city travelers and those who want to leave the driving to others. Short-hop flights within Europe can creatively connect the dots. Just be aware of the potential downside of each option: A car is an expensive headache in any major city; with trains and buses you’re at the mercy of a timetable; and flying entails a trek to and from a usually distant airport, and leaves a larger carbon footprint.
If your itinerary mixes cities and countryside, my advice is to connect cities by train (or bus) and to explore rural areas by rental car. Arrange to pick up your car in the last big city you’ll visit, then use it to lace together small towns and explore the countryside. For more detailed information on transportation throughout Europe, see RickSteves.com/transportation.
Renfe is the Spanish national train system. For information and reservations, visit Renfe.com or dial Renfe’s number (+34 912 320 320) from anywhere in Spain. You’ll find tips on buying tickets later in this section.
Trains generally get more expensive as they pick up speed, but all are cheaper per mile than their northern European counterparts. Spain loves to name trains, so you may encounter types of trains not listed here.
The high-speed train called the AVE (AH-vay, stands for Alta Velocidad Española) whisks travelers between Madrid and Toledo in 30 minutes, and between Madrid and Sevilla, Barcelona, Granada, or Málaga in 3-4 hours. AVE trains are priced according to their time of departure. Peak hours (punta) are most expensive, followed by llano and valle (quietest and cheapest times). Tickets for these trains typically go on sale two months in advance. AVE trains are almost entirely covered by the Eurail Pass (book ahead, seat reservation fee from Madrid to Sevilla costs Eurailers about $12). It’s smart to bring your passport (ticket checkers may ask for identification, especially if you have a rail pass).
A related high-speed train, the Alvia, runs on AVE lines but can switch to Iberian tracks without stopping. On the Madrid-San Sebastián route, for example, it reaches the Basque Country in five hours.
Avlo is a low-cost version of AVE, running a few times per day between Madrid, Zaragoza, and Barcelona, with all second-class seating and fewer services. Nonrefundable tickets are sold online only (and rail passes are not accepted).
Avant trains are also high-speed—typically about as fast as AVE—but designed for shorter distances. They also tend to be cheaper than AVE, even on the same route. If you’re on a tight budget, compare your options before buying.
The Talgo is fast, air-conditioned, and expensive, and runs on AVE rails. Intercity and Media Distancia trains fall just behind Talgo in speed, comfort, and expense. Cercanías and Rodalies are commuter trains for big-city workers and small-town tourists.
Overnight Trains: The main overnight train routes remaining in Spain are between Madrid, San Sebastián, or Salamanca and Lisbon (and provide the only train service on these international routes) and between Madrid or Barcelona and Galicia (A Coruña, Ferrol, or Vigo).
Overnight trains (and buses) are usually less expensive and slower than the daytime rides, not counting any sleeper fees. Most overnight trains have berths (litera) that cost extra, with the price depending on the route and type of compartment. To get the space you want, it’s smart to reserve in advance, even from home. Travelers with first-class reservations are entitled to use comfortable “Intercity” lounges in train stations in Spain’s major cities.
The single-country Eurail Spain Pass can be a reasonable value if you’ll be taking three or more long train rides in Spain. But otherwise, it’s unlikely to save you money. A rail pass doesn’t provide much hop-on convenience in Spain, since most trains require paid seat reservations. (Pass holders can’t reserve online through Renfe but can reserve at www.raileurope.com before leaving the US.) Buying individual train tickets in advance or as you go in Spain can be less expensive and gives you better access to seat reservations (which are limited for rail-pass holders). For most trains, point-to-point ticket prices already include seat reservations when required (for instance, for fast trains and longer distances).
Renfe also offers its own “Renfe Spain Pass,” which works entirely differently. It counts trips instead of calendar days, requires reservations to be made in chronological order, and is sold only on their website.
If your trip extends beyond Spain, consider the Eurail Global Pass, covering most of Europe (trains crossing the Spanish border only accept passes that cover your entire trip). If you buy separate passes for neighboring countries, note that you’ll use a travel day on each when crossing the border. Even if you have a rail pass, use buses when they’re more convenient and direct than the trains. Remember to reserve ahead for the fast AVE trains and overnight journeys.
For more detailed advice on figuring out the smartest rail-pass options for your train trip, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
Trains can sell out, and high-speed AVE ticket prices increase as your departure date draws closer, so it’s smart to buy tickets at least a day in advance—even for short rides. You have several options for buying train tickets: at the station or a Renfe office, at a travel agency, online, or by phone. Since station ticket offices can get very crowded, some travelers will find it easiest to go to a travel agency, most of which charge a nominal service fee.
At the Station: You will likely have to wait in a line to buy your ticket (and pay a five percent service fee). First find the correct line—at bigger stations, there might be separate windows for short-distance, long-distance, advance, and “today” (para hoy) tickets. You might have to take a number—watch others and follow their lead. Renfe ticket machines usually take US credit cards but in some cases you may have to enter your PIN.
You can also buy tickets or reservations at the Renfe offices located in more than 100 city centers. These are more central and multilingual—also less crowded and confusing—than most train stations.
Travel Agency: The easiest choice for most travelers is to buy tickets at an English-speaking travel agency (look for a train sticker in agency windows). El Corte Inglés department stores (with locations in most Spanish cities) often have handy travel agencies inside.
Online: Although the Renfe website is useful for confirming schedules and prices, you may have trouble buying tickets online unless you use PayPal. (The website often rejects attempts to use a US card.) But with patience and enough Spanish language skill, you may nab an online discount of up to 60 percent (limited seats at these prices, available two weeks to two months ahead of travel). Online vendors based in the US include Raileurope.com and Petrabax.com (expect a small fee from either) or use the European vendor Trainline.eu.
By Phone: You can purchase your ticket by phone (+34 912 240 202), then pick it up at the station by punching your confirmation code (localizador) into one of the machines. Discounts up to 40 percent off are offered a week or more ahead by phone (and at stations).
You can also reserve tickets by phone, then buy them at the station, which you must do a few days before departure (at a ticket window, usually signed “venta anticipada”). You can’t pay for reserved tickets at the station on your day of travel.
Will you be better off buying a rail pass or point-to-point tickets? It pays to know your options and choose what’s best for your itinerary.
A Eurail Spain Pass lets you travel by train in Spain for three to eight days (consecutively or not) within a one-month period. Spain is also covered (along with most of Europe) by the classic Eurail Global Pass.
Discounted rates are offered for seniors (age 60 and up) and youths (ages 12-27). Up to two kids (ages 4-11) can travel free with each adult-rate pass (but not with senior rates). All rail passes offer a choice of first or second class for all ages.
Rail passes are best purchased outside Europe (through travel agents or Rick Steves’ Europe). For more on rail passes, including prices, visit RickSteves.com/rail.
If you’re taking just a couple of train rides, buying individual pointto-point tickets may save you money over a pass. Use this map to add up approximate pay-as-you-go fares for your itinerary, and compare that to the price of a rail pass plus reservations. Keep in mind that significant discounts on point-to-point tickets may be available with advance purchase.
Map shows approximate costs, in US dollars, for one-way, second-class tickets on faster trains.
Bus travel in Spain gives you a glimpse at España profunda (“deep Spain”), where everyone seems to know each other and no one’s in a hurry. The system can be confusing to the uninitiated, as a number of different companies operate throughout the country, sometimes running buses to the same destinations and using the same transfer points. The aggregator website Movelia.es is a good place to begin researching schedules and companies; local TIs also have bus information for their region.
Among the major companies are Alsa (www.alsa.es), Avanza (www.avanzabus.com), Comes (www.tgcomes.es), and Damas (www.damas-sa.es), but you will see many other regional carriers. Ticket desks are usually clustered within one bus station, and larger stations have a consolidated information desk with all schedules. In smaller stations, check the destinations and schedules posted on each office window.
Remember to double-check the codes on bus schedules to confirm service on the day you want to travel: for example, “12:00S” means 12:00 daily except Saturday. Bus service on holidays, Saturdays, and especially Sundays can be less frequent. Departures are listed under salidas, and arrivals are llegadas. Whenever possible, choose a faster directo route over a slower ruta option (with more stops along the way).
Some routes can require a transfer; typically (but not always) your onward connection will be run by the originating company. Spend some time at the station upon arrival to check your departure options and buy a ticket in advance if necessary (and possible). If you’re downtown, need a ticket, and the bus station isn’t central, save time by asking at the TI about travel agencies that sell bus tickets.
On the Bus: You can (and most likely will be required to) stow your luggage under the bus. Your ticket comes with an assigned seat; if the bus is full, you should take that seat, but if it’s uncrowded, most people just sit where they like. Buses are nonsmoking.
Drivers and station personnel may not speak English. Buses generally lack WCs, but they stop every two hours or so for a short break. Drivers announce how long the stop will be, but if in doubt, ask, “How many minutes here?” (“¿Cuántos minutos aquí?”). Listen for the bus horn as a final call before departure.
Most European taxis are reliable and cheap. In many cities, two people can travel short distances by cab for little more than the cost of bus or subway tickets. If you like ride-booking services such as Uber, their apps usually work in Europe just like they do in the US: Request a car on your mobile phone (connected to Wi-Fi or data), and the fare is automatically charged to your credit card. However, as of this writing, Uber is available only in Madrid. For more about tipping your cabbie, see here.
It’s cheaper to arrange most car rentals from the US, so research and compare rates before you go. Most of the major US rental agencies (including Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and Thrifty) have offices throughout Europe. Also consider the two major Europe-based agencies, Europcar and Sixt. Consolidators such as Auto Europe (AutoEurope.com—or the sometimes cheaper AutoEurope.eu) compare rates at several companies to get you the best deal.
Wherever you book, always read the fine print. Check for add-on charges—such as one-way drop-off fees, airport surcharges, or mandatory insurance policies—that aren’t included in the “total price.”
Figure on paying roughly $250 for a one-week rental for a basic compact car. Allow extra for supplemental insurance, fuel, tolls, and parking. To save money on fuel, request a diesel car. Be warned that international trips—say, picking up in Madrid and dropping off in Lisbon—can be expensive if the rental company assesses a drop-off fee for crossing a border.
Manual vs. Automatic: Almost all rental cars in Europe are manual by default—and cars with stick shift are generally cheaper. If you need an automatic, reserve one specifically. When selecting a car, don’t be tempted by a larger model, as it won’t be as maneuverable on narrow, winding roads (such as in Andalucía’s hill towns) or when squeezing into tight parking lots.
Age Restrictions: Some rental companies impose minimum and maximum age limits. Young drivers (25 and under) and seniors (69 and up) should check the rental policies and rules section of car rental websites.
Choosing Pick-up/Drop-off Locations: Always check the hours of the location you choose: Many rental offices close from midday Saturday until Monday morning and, in smaller towns, at lunchtime.
When selecting an office, confirm the location on a map. A downtown site might seem more convenient than the airport but could actually be in the suburbs or buried deep in big-city streets. Pedestrianized and one-way streets can make navigation tricky when returning a car at a big-city office or urban train station. Wherever you select, get precise details on the location and allow ample time to find it.
Have the Right License: If you’re renting a car in Spain, bring your driver’s license. You’re also technically required to have an International Driving Permit—an official translation of your license (sold at AAA offices for about $20 plus the cost of two passport-type photos; see www.aaa.com). How this is enforced varies: I’ve never needed one.
Picking Up Your Car: Before driving off in your rental car, check it thoroughly and make sure any damage is noted on your rental agreement. Rental agencies in Europe tend to charge for even minor damage, so be sure to mark everything. Find out how your car’s gearshift, lights, turn signals, wipers, radio, and fuel cap function, and know what kind of fuel the car takes (diesel is common in Europe). When you return the car, make sure the agent verifies its condition with you.
When you rent a car in Europe, the price typically includes liability insurance, which covers harm to other cars or motorists—but not the rental car itself. To limit your financial risk in case of damage to the rental, choose one of these options: Buy a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) with a low or zero deductible from the car-rental company (roughly 30-40 percent extra), get coverage through your credit card (free, but more complicated), or get collision insurance as part of a larger travel-insurance policy.
Basic CDW costs $15–30 a day and typically comes with a $1,000-2,000 deductible, reducing but not eliminating your financial responsibility. When you reserve or pick up the car, you’ll be offered the chance to “buy down” the deductible to zero (for an additional $10–30/day; this is sometimes called “super CDW” or “zero-deductible coverage”).
If you opt for credit-card coverage, you must decline all coverage offered by the car-rental company—which means they can place a hold on your card to cover the deductible. In case of damage, it can be time-consuming to resolve the charges. Before relying on this option, quiz your card company about how it works.
If you’re already purchasing a travel-insurance policy for your trip, adding collision coverage can be an economical option. For example, Travel Guard (www.travelguard.com) sells affordable renter’s collision insurance as an add-on to its other policies; it’s valid everywhere in Europe except the Republic of Ireland, and some Italian car-rental companies refuse to honor it, as it doesn’t cover you in case of theft.
For more on car-rental insurance, see RickSteves.com/cdw.
If you’ll be navigating using your phone or a GPS unit from home, remember to bring a car charger and device mount.
Your Mobile Phone: The mapping app on your phone works fine for navigating Europe’s roads. To save on data, most apps allow you to download maps for offline use (do this before you need them, when you have a strong Wi-Fi signal). Some apps—including Google Maps—also have offline route directions, but you’ll need mobile data access for current traffic. For more on using a mapping app without burning through data, see “Using Your Phone in Europe,” earlier.
GPS Devices: If you want a dedicated GPS unit, consider renting one with your car ($10-30/day, or sometimes included—ask). These units offer real-time turn-by-turn directions and traffic without the data requirements of an app. The unit may come loaded only with maps for its home country; if you need additional maps, ask. Also make sure your device’s language is set to English and you know how to use it before you drive off.
Paper Maps and Atlases: Even when navigating primarily with a mobile app or GPS, I always make it a point to have a paper map, ideally a big, detailed regional road map. It’s invaluable for getting the big picture, understanding alternate routes, and filling in if my phone runs out of juice. The free maps you get from your car-rental company usually don’t have enough detail. It’s smart to buy a better map before you go, or pick one up at local gas stations, bookshops, newsstands, and tourist shops.
Driving in rural Spain is great—traffic is sparse and roads are generally good. But a car is a pain in big cities. Drive defensively. If you’re involved in an accident, you will be in for a monumental headache. Spaniards love to tailgate. Don’t take it personally; let impatient drivers pass you and enjoy the drive. In smaller towns, following signs to Centro Ciudad will get you to the heart of things.
Freeways and Tolls: Spain’s freeways come with tolls, but save huge amounts of time. Each toll road (autopista de peaje) has its own pricing structure, so tolls vary. Near some major cities, you must prepay for each stretch of road you drive; on other routes, you take a ticket where you enter the freeway, and pay when you exit. Payment can be made in cash or by credit or debit card (credit-card-only lanes are labeled “vias automáticas”; cash lanes are “vias manuales”).
Because road numbers can be puzzling and inconsistent, be ready to navigate by city and town names. Memorize some key road words: salida (exit), de sentido único (one way), despacio (slow), and adelantamiento prohibido (no passing). Mileage signs are in kilometers.
Road Rules: Seatbelts are required by law. Children under 12 must ride in the back seat and use a child’s car seat (type varies with age/weight; check with your rental company for details). It’s recommended that children over 12 ride in the back when possible.
You must put on a reflective safety vest any time you get out of your car on the side of a highway or unlit road (most rental-car companies provide one—check when you pick up the car). Those who use eyeglasses are required by law to have a spare pair in the car.
Be aware of typical European road rules; for example, many countries require headlights to be turned on at all times, and nearly all forbid handheld mobile-phone use. In Europe, you’re not allowed to turn right on a red light unless a sign or signal specifically authorizes it, and on expressways it’s illegal to pass drivers on the right. You should also stay in the right lane unless you are passing.
Ask your car-rental company about these rules, or check the “International Travel” section of the US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov, search for your country in the “Country Information” box, then click “Travel and Transportation”).
Traffic Cops: Watch for traffic radars and expect to be stopped for a routine check by the police. Small towns come with speed traps and corruption. Tickets, especially for foreigners, are issued and paid for on the spot. Insist on a receipt (recibo), so the money is less likely to end up in the cop’s pocket.
Fuel: Gas and diesel prices are controlled and the same everywhere—about $5 a gallon for gas and $4 a gallon for diesel. Unleaded gas (gasolina sin plomo) is either normal or super. Note that diesel is called diesel or gasóleo—pay attention when filling your tank. Some pumps are color-coded: Unleaded pumps are green and labeled “E,” while diesel pumps (often yellow or black) are labeled “B.”
Theft: Thieves easily recognize rental cars and assume they are filled with a tourist’s gear. Be sure all your valuables are out of sight and locked in the trunk, or even better, with you or in your room. Parking attendants all over Spain holler, “Nada en el coche” (“Nothing in the car”). And they mean it. In cities you can park safely but expensively in guarded lots or garages.
To compare flights, begin with an online travel search engine: Kayak is the top site for flights to and within Europe, easy-to-use Google Flights has price alerts, and Skyscanner includes many inexpensive flights within Europe. To avoid unpleasant surprises, before you book be sure to read the small print about refunds, changes, and the costs for “extras” such as reserving a seat, checking a bag, or printing a boarding pass.
Flights to Europe: Start looking for international flights about four to six months before your trip, especially for peak-season travel. Depending on your itinerary, it can be efficient and no more expensive to fly into one city and out of another. If your flight requires a connection in Europe, see our hints on navigating Europe’s top hub airports at RickSteves.com/hub-airports.
Flights Within Europe: Flying between European cities is surprisingly affordable. Before buying a long-distance train or bus ticket, check the cost of a flight on one of Europe’s airlines, whether a major carrier or a no-frills outfit like EasyJet or Ryanair. Be aware that flying with a discount airline can have drawbacks, such as minimal customer service and time-consuming treks to secondary airports.
Flying to the US and Canada: Because security is extra tight for flights to the US, be sure to give yourself plenty of time at the airport (see www.tsa.gov for the latest rules).
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