8.    APPETIZERS AND LIGHT LUNCHES

THE RICHNESS and diversity of Indian food are no more adequately reflected than in the enormous array of snacks, appetizers, hors d’oeuvres and tasty little tidbits enjoyed by millions of Indians every day. Each region of India has its own local specialities, but they are all tantalizingly spicy, delicious, inexpensive and readily available.

A variety of particularly common and popular snacks eaten throughout India are referred to as chats. Chana chat masala, chicken chat and aloo chat are all chats served in Indian restaurants, but there are many more varieties. They offer a hot, tangy and sweet mix of tastes that once acquired is forever desired.

The majority of traditional snacks are potato based. The aloo ki tikki for example, one of the oldest Indian snacks recorded in history, is made from mashed, spiced potatoes.

THE SAMOSA

Another popular snack, and one reportedly enjoyed by the British during the Raj, is the ubiquitous spicy little pastry triangle know as the samosa. It is believed that the samosa originated in central Asia before the 10th century and made its way to India via ancient trade routes such as the Old Silk Road. The samosa is now a popular snack all over the world.

Traditionally, samosas were made with potatoes, spices and vegetables. Modern-day Indian cuisine incorporates meat, fish and cheese into some of the original samosa recipes.

MAKING SAMOSAS FROM SCRATCH

A common practice not all that long ago, it is now a rarity to make samosas at home. And it’s no wonder: it’s a time- and effort-consuming task, particularly when making large amounts. Recipes and methods of preparation vary slightly from one household to another but all require the following steps:

   preparing and cooking the potato or meat filling

   preparing the pastry dough

   rolling the pastry

   filling the pastry

   deep-frying

Freshly made samosas are available readily and cheaply from Indian snack and sweet stores, and the vast majority of people, including many restaurant chefs, take the route of least inconvenience and buy them ready-made. However, the quality can be inconsistent. Homemade samosas are generally the best.

SERVING INDIAN SNACKS AND APPETIZERS

Traditionally, there is no proper or right way to serve Indian food, although in Indian restaurants in the West it is common to eat two or more “courses.” The dishes on the next pages can be served as appetizers if you wish to introduce a little formality into your occasion, or may form part of the main meal with a selection of dishes on the table at the same time. They also make delicious snacks at any time of the day. The important thing is to cook good food and enjoy it with family and friends.

NONVEGETARIAN APPETIZERS

LAMB BOTI

Chunks of tender lamb marinated in a mix of fresh ginger, garlic, chili and lemon juice.

MEAT SAMOSA WITH KASHMIRI CHAT

Spicy minced lamb wrapped in a crisp light pastry served with chickpeas in a tamarind sauce.

SPICY LAMB CUTLETS

Garlicky, spicy lamb cutlets marinated in fresh herbs and grilled until sizzling.

KASHMIRI LAMB CUTLETS

Meltingly tender lamb cutlets wrapped in a crisp, spicy golden coating.

MURGH SEEKH KEBAB

Minced chicken combined with fresh cilantro, spring onions, herbs and spices.

MURGH TIKKA HARIYALI

Tender breast pieces marinated in mint, green chilies and spices.

CHICKEN DOSAI

Mustard-flavored shredded chicken wrapped in thin golden rice pancakes.

FISH PAKORA

Pieces of fresh fish dipped in a chickpea-flour batter flavored with spices and herbs.

AJWAINI JUMBO SHRIMP

Jumbo shrimp tossed with carom seeds, cilantro and cumin served with chargrilled orange slices.

LAMB BOTI

Traditionally, this dish uses cubed leg of lamb, marinated in spices and yogurt that tenderize and flavor the meat. It is then skewered and cooked over hot coals (or in the tandoor), creating lovely crispy pieces on the outside of the meat while the inside is deliciously moist and tender. You can achieve similar results on a barbecue, or failing that, a really hot oven or grill will be fine.

SERVES 4 Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes (meat requires marinating overnight)

12 oz (350 g) lean lamb taken from the leg

2 cloves of garlic, minced or finely chopped

small piece of ginger, grated (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

1/2 tsp turmeric

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp garam masala

1 tsp chili powder

juice of half a lemon or lime

2 tbsp yogurt

1 tbsp oil

1 tsp salt

   Cut the lamb into 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks, place in a deep bowl and sprinkle on all the remaining ingredients except the yogurt, oil and salt.

   Stir and turn the meat pieces until evenly coated with herbs and spices. Add the yogurt and oil and mix well. Cover and marinate the meat overnight in the fridge.

   If you are using the oven, preheat it to 450°F (230°C). You may also consider using the barbecue or grill. Remove the meat from the fridge about 30 minutes before cooking.

   Sprinkle the salt onto the meat and mix well. Thread the meat onto metal skewers (or presoaked wooden skewers), keeping the meat pieces about 1/2 inch (1 cm) apart. Reserve the marinade.

   Cook the lamb in the oven for about 20–25 minutes, or on the barbecue or under the grill for about 15 minutes, turning once and brushing with the marinade halfway through cooking.

   Serve with a crisp green salad and Yogurt Mint Sauce (page 40).

MEAT SAMOSA WITH KASHMIRI CHAT

This can be served as a hearty appetizer, a tasty snack with drinks or a light lunch. The fresh-tasting Kashmiri Chat incorporates sweet, hot and sour flavors and goes particularly well with these spicy samosas.

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MAKES 12 SAMOSAS

Preparation and cooking time: 45 minutes (with ready-prepared filling)

5 oz (150 g) plain flour

1/2 tsp salt

1 tbsp olive oil

about 4 fl oz (120 mL) water

1 quantity of Karahi Keema (page 96)

oil for deep-frying

   To make the pastry dough, sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the oil.

   Add the water, a little at a time starting at the center to incorporate the oil, and mix, bringing the flour together until you have a soft, pliable dough.

   Knead gently for a minute or two. Cover and leave to rest for about 10 minutes.

   Divide the mixture into 6 portions. Take one portion and roll between floured hands to make a ball. Flatten slightly and roll into a circle about 8 inches (20 cm) in diameter.

   Cut each circle in half, and then taking the two corners of one half, bring the cut sides together, slightly overlapping, to make a hollow cone. Seal by pressing the cut sides together. You may need to dampen the edges with a little water.

   Fill about three-quarters full with the Karahi Keema mixture, being careful not to overfill. Pinch the open ends together firmly to close. Set aside and repeat with remaining dough.

   Deep-fry in batches and drain on a wire rack. Keep warm in a low oven while cooking the remaining samosas.

 

 

KASHMIRI CHAT

1 heaped tsp tamarind paste

about 3 fl oz (100 mL) water

1 can (15 oz/425 g) chickpeas, drained

1 small red onion, finely diced

1 tomato, deseeded and the flesh diced

1 green chili, finely chopped

1 tsp Kashmiri chili powder, or 1/2 tsp red chili powder

1/2 tsp garam masala

1 tsp chat masala

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp ketchup

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

Dissolve the tamarind in the water and place all the other ingredients in a bowl. Mix well.

If you are using a block of tamarind for the Kashmiri Chat, soak a golf-ball-sized piece in 4 fl oz (120 mL) of hot water for 20–30 minutes. Squeeze out the pulp and discard solids and seeds.

Note: Kashmiri chili powder is redder but milder than ordinary chili powder.

 

 

TIP

Make the chat the day before and allow the flavors to develop.

SPICY LAMB CUTLETS

These lamb cutlets are so succulent and tasty you will have everyone coming back for more. The cutlets come from the rib and contain the tender fillet attached to the rib bone which makes them ideal as a finger food for informal gatherings.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: approximately 30 minutes (plus 2–3 hours marinating time)

8 lamb cutlets

2 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves (or 2 heaped tsp mint jelly out of a jar)

1 tsp chili powder

1 tsp paprika

3 cloves of garlic, minced or finely chopped

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

juice of half a lemon

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp mint jelly

1 tsp salt

   Trim the cutlets and scrape the bone ends to remove fat and gristle.

   Mix all the remaining ingredients except the salt in a bowl, and add the lamb cutlets. Using your hands, rub the herb-and-spice mixture onto the meat ensuring each cutlet is evenly coated. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours or overnight.

   Remove the lamb from the fridge about half an hour before cooking.

   Heat a heavy-based frying pan, capable of holding the cutlets without overcrowding, until very hot.

   Sprinkle some salt onto each cutlet. Cook the cutlets for about 11/2 minutes each side.

   Serve hot with Yogurt Mint Sauce.

 

YOGURT MINT SAUCE

5 fl oz (150 mL) plain yogurt

1 tsp mint sauce

1/2 level tsp salt

1/4 tsp chili powder

1/4 tsp garam masala

1/4 tsp green mango powder

1/2 tsp finely granulated sugar

2 tsp chopped fresh mint (optional)

Place all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.

 

TIPS

The mint jelly is the secret ingredient in this dish. The hint of sweetness balances the lemon juice and spices beautifully.

Ready-prepared garlic, usually preserved in lemon juice, is also a good shortcut for marinades requiring lots of garlic.

KASHMIRI LAMB CUTLETS

This is an unusual but absolutely delicious dish of precooked, tender lamb cutlets, wrapped in a golden, crispy batter.

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SERVES 4 Preparation and cooking time: 45–50 minutes

8 lamb cutlets

7 fl oz (200 mL) milk

1/2 tsp garam masala

3 cloves

6 cardamom pods

1 tsp grated ginger

1 tbsp chopped onion

sprinkling of salt

3 tbsp chickpea flour (besan)

1 tbsp rice flour

1 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp turmeric

1/4 tsp ground fenugreek leaves (optional)

oil for deep-frying

Step 1

   Trim the cutlets and scrape the bone end of each cutlet. Place the milk, garam masala, cloves, cardamoms, ginger and onion in a pan large enough to hold the cutlets in a single layer, and bring to a boil.

   Add the cutlets, bring the milk back to a boil, turn down the heat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, turning once or twice, until the cutlets are tender and all the liquid has evaporated.

   Sprinkle the cutlets with a little salt on each side, remove from the pan and cool.

   Cutlets can be prepared to this stage up to 24 hours ahead.

Step 2

   Combine the chickpea flour, rice flour, chili powder, paprika, salt, turmeric and fenugreek leaves (if you are using them) in a bowl. Add enough water to make a thickish batter. Allow to stand for at least 10 minutes.

   Dip the lamb cutlets in the batter, shaking off the excess, and fry in hot oil until crisp and golden.

   Drain on paper towels and serve with spicy Peach Chutney (page 172) or Yogurt Mint Sauce (page 40).

 

TIP

The rice flour helps to make the batter crispier but it is not essential. Use extra chickpea flour if you don’t have it.

MURGH SEEKH KEBAB

Made with lean minced chicken and fresh herbs, these tasty kebabs make a nice change from the traditional lamb seekh kebabs.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

2 spring onions, finely sliced

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

2 green chilies, finely chopped

2 tsp fresh ginger, grated

3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

8 oz (225 g) minced chicken

1 tsp salt

1 tsp garam masala

juice of half a lemon

1 egg, lightly beaten

 

   Preheat the oven to its maximum temperature, or turn on the grill to heat. Place all the ingredients into a large bowl, and using your hands mix thoroughly.

   Divide the mixture into 8 equal parts, and using oiled hands form into sausage shapes about 4 inches (10 cm) in length.

   Place these on a rack in a shallow baking tray and cook near the top of the oven for 10–12 minutes, or under a very hot grill for 8–10 minutes, turning once.

   Serve sizzling with a green salad, Yogurt Mint Sauce (page 40) and a wedge of lemon.

 

BE A SIZZLER

•   Heat a sizzle plate on a gas flame for about 5 minutes until very hot.

•   Turn down the heat and place some sliced onion onto the dish.

•   Immediately place the cooked food on top of the onion.

•   Drizzle a little oil onto the side of the dish and tilt it slightly so the oil runs across the dish. It will start sizzling.

•   Now move some of the food aside and drizzle some lemon juice onto the onions. This produces even more sizzling and a delicious aroma.

•   Finally, sprinkle with chopped cilantro, and serve.

 

 

TIP

Place the first five ingredients, roughly chopped, into the bowl of a small food processor and process for a few seconds until finely chopped. Combine with the remaining ingredients and proceed as above.

MURGH TIKKA HARIYALI

Chicken tikka with fresh green (hariyali) herbs appears to be a Bengali dish, although the Punjabis also claim it as their own. Beautifully spiced, aromatic with fresh herbs, it will stimulate your tastebuds and your appetite. It’s easy to prepare and very tasty.

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SERVES 4–6

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes (plus marinating time of 2–3 hours or overnight)

3 chicken fillets

juice of half a lemon or lime

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp cilantro

3 tbsp mint leaves

4 or 5 fresh curry leaves

3 or 4 green garlic tops (optional)

2 green chilies

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, roughly chopped

2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped

1 tsp garam masala

2 tbsp yogurt

1 tbsp oil plus extra for basting

   Rinse the chicken fillets, pat dry with paper towels, and cut into 11/2-inch (4 cm) chunks. Sprinkle the lemon or lime juice and salt onto the chicken, stir well and set aside.

   Place the herbs, chilies, ginger, garlic, garam masala, yogurt and oil into a blender or food processor and process to a coarse paste.

   Add the herb paste to the chicken, mix well and refrigerate for 2–3 hours or overnight to marinate.

   Remove the chicken from the fridge at least half an hour before cooking and insert onto metal or presoaked wooden skewers.

   Heat the grill or barbecue and cook the chicken skewers for 12–15 minutes, basting once or twice with a little oil and turning frequently until cooked through.

   Serve hot with Mango Chutney (page 171) and lemon wedges.

 

TIP

You can brown the chicken pieces in a very hot frying pan, then, using kitchen tongs, skewer them and bake in a hot oven at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes.

CHICKEN DOSAI

The dosai, or dosa as it is commonly known in the West, originates from south India although it is popular all over the country. Dosai are made from a batter of soaked, ground and fermented rice and urad dhal, which is poured onto a tava (cast-iron griddle) and fried in oil or ghee, rather like a pancake or crepe. Traditionally dosai are served with a variety of chutneys and eaten for breakfast. In the West it is more usual to eat dosai stuffed with spicy potato or meat fillings, more commonly referred to as masala dosai.

Making the dosai batter at home is a lengthy and laborious process. The quick and convenient way is to buy the ready-prepared mix, which is very good and available from Indian grocers. Simply add the filling of your choice. Making dosai takes a little practice, so be prepared to throw the first couple away. Starting with a warm rather than hot pan makes it easier, and practice makes perfect.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: approximately 45 minutes

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp black mustard seeds

2 onions, sliced

4 or 5 curry leaves, fresh or dried

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, finely chopped (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

2–3 green chilies, finely sliced

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp turmeric

8 oz (225 g) chicken, thinly sliced

1 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp cilantro

1 pkt of dosai mix

about 2 tbsp oil extra

   Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. When hot, throw in the mustard seeds, shake the pan for 2 or 3 seconds until they pop and quickly add the onions followed by the curry leaves.

   Cook on medium to high heat until the onions are translucent and add the garlic, ginger and chilies. Stir-fry for a minute or two.

   Add the salt and turmeric, stir and add in the chicken. Continue stirring on medium to high heat until the chicken begins to color.

   Add 4 tablespoons of water, cover the pan, turn down the heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

   Remove the lid and cook on low heat for another 5 minutes until the mixture is dry and the chicken cooked.

   Stir in the garam masala and cilantro.

   For dosai, follow instructions on the packet to make the batter and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Set the oven to warm.

   Warm a frying pan that is about 20–25cm (8–10 inches) in diameter and generously brush or spray with oil.

   Pour a little batter into the pan and, using a circular motion, spread it around with the back of a spoon.

   Cook on medium heat and, while the dosai cooks, sprinkle or spray some more oil onto the top and around the edges so that it seeps under the dosai. It will take around 4 minutes to cook.

   When the edges start to brown, carefully lift the dosai onto an ovenproof platter. Place some filling along the center of the dosa, and fold over one side and then the other. Hold down for a few seconds to set the dosai in shape.

   Place in the oven to keep warm while making more dosai.

   Serve warm with Coconut and Mint Chutney (page 173) and Sambhar.

 

SAMBHAR

1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

1/2 tsp coriander seeds

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1/2 tsp black peppercorns

6 dried red chilies

3 tsp tamarind paste

7 fl oz (200 mL) warm water

7 oz (200 g) red lentils

7 oz (200 g) chopped mixed vegetables

1/2 tsp turmeric

18 fl oz (500 mL) cold water

1 tbsp oil

1/2 tsp black mustard seeds

8 curry leaves

1 medium onion, chopped

pinch asafetida (optional)

1 ripe tomato, chopped

2 tsp salt (or to taste)

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

In a small pan dry-roast the fenugreek, coriander, cumin, peppercorns and chilies until aromatic. Remove from the pan, cool and grind to a powder.

Dissolve the tamarind in about 7 fl oz (200 mL) of warm water. Set aside.

Meanwhile, wash and drain the lentils and combine with the vegetables, turmeric and 18 fl oz (500 mL) of water. Bring to a boil, skim the froth off the top and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring now and then.

In a separate pan, heat the oil and add the mustard seeds and curry leaves. Cook for a minute and stir in the onion (and asafetida, if you are using it).

Stir-fry the onion until it starts to color and add the tamarind water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the onion mixture to the dhal (pulses) and vegetables with the tomato, salt and roasted spice mix. Bring back to a boil and simmer for another 5 minutes.

Stir in the cilantro and serve with dosai.

 

TIP

Have two pans going at the same time, so that you have a cooler one for starting each dosai. Take your time spreading the batter and don’t worry if your dosai has large holes or spaces in it. The edges of these holes will get nice and crisp and make it taste even better.

FISH PAKORA

Succulent, creamy chunks of fish wrapped in spicy, crisp, golden batter; equally at home as a snack with ketchup or as an elegant appetizer with baby salad leaves, sweet chili sauce and a wedge of lime.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes

4 oz (120 g) chickpea flour (besan)

1 oz (30 g) rice flour

1 tsp salt

1 green chili, finely chopped

1/2 tsp chili powder

1 heaped tsp mint sauce

1/2 tsp garam masala

1/2 tsp ground fenugreek leaves (optional)

8–10 oz (225–280 g) piece of firm white fish

1 tbsp finely chopped cilantro

oil for deep-frying

   Sift the chickpea flour, rice flour and salt into a large bowl. Add enough water to make into a thick batter.

   Stir in the salt, chili and chili powder, mint sauce, garam masala and fenugreek leaves, if you are using them. Allow the batter to stand while preparing the fish.

   Rinse the fish, pat dry with paper towels, and cut into large chunks about 2 inches (5 cm) in size.

   Stir the cilantro into the batter, followed by the fish pieces. Stir the fish around in the batter until each piece is well coated.

   Shake off excess batter, and deep-fry the fish pieces in hot oil for 3–4 minutes until the coating is a rich golden brown and the fish is cooked through.

   Serve hot.

 

TIPS

Use any leftover batter to make vegetable pakora. Simply dip bite-sized pieces of cauliflower, potato, mushroom or eggplant into the batter and deep-fry until crisp. Or stir in some sliced onion or spinach, and drop spoonfuls into hot oil.

If you have some fresh fenugreek, stir it into the batter with the spices; it is wonderful in this dish.

AJWAINI JUMBO SHRIMP

Jumbo shrimp are fished from various warm waters around the world and are available precooked, and “green” (raw) if you are fortunate enough to live close to fish markets. If buying frozen shrimp, allow plenty of time for defrosting. The best way of defrosting them is slowly in the fridge.

This is an impressive dish that is bursting with flavor. It is delicately yet distinctly spiced with the unique flavor of carom seeds (or ajowan seeds) and the tangy sweetness of the orange.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes including marinating time

16 jumbo shrimp

1 tsp carom seeds (ajwain)

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp turmeric

1 green chili, finely chopped

1 tbsp finely chopped cilantro

1 tsp olive oil

zest of half an orange

1 tsp salt

1 orange, sliced

   If using fresh shrimp, shell and devein them, leaving the tail intact. Rinse under cold water, drain and pat dry with paper towels.

   Mix all the remaining ingredients, except for the salt and the sliced orange, in a noncorrosive bowl and add the shrimp. Stir to coat and leave to marinate for 15 minutes.

   Heat a heavy-based frying pan large enough to take the shrimp in a single layer. Stir the salt into the shrimp, cook them over medium heat for about 5 minutes, turning once or twice.

   Meanwhile, chargrill the orange slices on a griddle pan, a minute each side.

   Serve the shrimp, sizzling if you like (see page 42), with a green salad, the chargrilled orange slices and Cilantro and Mint Drizzle.

 

CILANTRO AND MINT DRIZZLE

Take a handful of fresh cilantro and mint, one or two green chilies, juice of a lemon, 1 teaspoon of finely granulated sugar, and salt and pepper to taste, and place in a blender. Blend until smooth.

VEGETARIAN APPETIZERS

SPINACH BHAJI

Shredded spinach combined with chickpea flour, herbs and spices, deep-fried until golden.

VEGETARIAN SAMOSA

Spicy, tangy potatoes wrapped in a light, crisp pastry.

VEGETARIAN DOSAI

Thin, golden rice pancakes filled with spiced mustard potatoes, served with a coconut (nariyal) and mint chutney.

PANEER SHASHLIK

Cubes of homemade cheese marinated with a blend of herbs and spices, cooked with onions and sweet peppers.

SPRING ROLLS

Spring-roll pastry filled with finely diced vegetables and paneer, lightly spiced and deep-fried until golden.

ALOO KI TIKKI

Crisp, golden potato patties, lightly spiced and flavored with fresh herbs. Served with a tamarind sauce.

DHAL SOUP

A combination of vegetables and lentils in a mildly spiced soup.

SPINACH BHAJI

Spinach Bhaji, or palak pakorah as it is referred to in India, is just one of the many types of spicy snacks made with chickpea (besan) flour. It is quick, easy and tasty and in fact quite nutritious. A good appetizer or snack for vegetarians and nonvegetarians alike.

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SERVES 4–6

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

8 oz (225 g) chickpea flour (besan)

2 tsp salt

1 tsp garam masala

1 or 2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

2 tbsp tomato puree (optional)

1 bunch (about 7 oz/200 g) spinach leaves

oil for deep-frying

   Place all the ingredients except the spinach in a bowl and add enough water to make a thick batter. Cover and leave to stand while preparing the spinach.

   Wash the spinach leaves in plenty of water, squeeze out excess water and shred the leaves finely. Add to the batter and stir well.

   Deep-fry tablespoons of the mixture in hot oil. Do not overcrowd the pan. Press the bhaji lightly while it is frying to squeeze the uncooked mixture to the outside and ensure thorough cooking.

   Drain on paper towels and serve hot with sauce or chutney of choice.

 

TIP

Use frozen, thawed spinach for added convenience.

VEGETARIAN SAMOSA

The ubiquitous samosa is a popular snack throughout India and famous around the world. A delightful crisp, deep-fried triangle with a delicious spicy filling, it is versatile enough for a quick snack on the run or as part of a prestigious banquet.

The carrots used in this recipe give the filling added flavor and texture, but you can omit them and make up the quantity with more potato.

MAKES 12 SAMOSAS

Preparation and cooking time: filling: 25–30 minutes, pastry and remaining process: 40–45 minutes

Filling

2 oz (50 g) diced carrot

5 oz (150 g) diced potato

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, finely sliced

1-inch (2 cm) piece of ginger, grated or finely chopped

1 or 2 green chilies, finely chopped

1/2 tsp turmeric

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp frozen peas

1 tsp green mango powder or juice of half a lemon

1/2 tsp garam masala

 

Pastry

5 oz (150 g) plain flour

1/2 tsp salt

1 tbsp olive oil

4 fl oz (120 mL) water

oil for deep-frying

   Make the filling first. Boil the carrot in salted water for 5 minutes and add the potato. Cook until the vegetables are tender but not breaking apart. Drain.

   Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan and add the onion. Fry for a few minutes over medium heat until the onion is beginning to color around the edges.

   Add the ginger, chilies, turmeric, cumin and salt and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Stir in the cooked vegetables, peas, green mango powder and garam masala. Mix well over low heat for a few minutes so that the vegetables absorb the spices.

   Turn off the heat and allow the filling to cool while making the pastry.

   To make the pastry dough, sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the oil. Add about 4 fl oz (120 mL) of water, a little at a time starting at the center to incorporate the oil, and mix, bringing the flour together until you have a soft, pliable dough. Knead gently for a minute or two until smooth.

   Cover and leave to rest for about 10 minutes.

   With floured hands, divide the mixture into 6 portions. Take one portion and roll between floured hands to make a ball. Flatten slightly and roll into a thin circle about 8 inches (20 cm) in diameter.

   Cut each circle in half and, taking the two corners of one half, bring the cut sides together, slightly overlapping, to make a hollow cone. Seal by pressing the cut sides together. You may need to dampen the edges with a little water.

   Fill about three-quarters full with the potato mixture, being careful not to overfill. Pinch the open ends together firmly to enclose the filling. Set aside and repeat with the remaining dough.

   Deep-fry in batches and drain on a wire rack. Keep warm in a low oven while cooking the remaining samosas.

   Serve piping hot with Tamarind Sauce, Kashmiri Chat (page 39) or ketchup.

 

TAMARIND SAUCE

2 tsp tamarind paste

7 fl oz (200 mL) warm water

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp garam masala

1/2 tsp green mango powder

1 tbsp ketchup

1 carrot, grated

1 tbsp diced red onion

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

Dissolve the tamarind paste in the water.

Add the remaining ingredients and mix to combine.

VEGETARIAN DOSAI

This is a delicious and quite substantial dish with a lovely combination of textures and flavors: crispy pancake, moist filling, a fresh-tasting chutney and an earthy, tangy Sambhar (page 45). For some tips on making the dosai, see the Chicken Dosai recipe (page 44).

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 45 minutes

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp black mustard seeds

1 onion, sliced

4–5 curry leaves, fresh, frozen or dried

2 green chilies, finely chopped

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp turmeric

11/2 tsp salt

11 oz (300 g) diced potato

1 pkt of dosai mix

   Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan and add the mustard seeds. Shake the pan over the heat for a couple of seconds until the seeds pop and immediately add the onion and curry leaves.

   Cook, stirring over medium to high heat, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chilies, cumin, coriander, turmeric and salt. Stir for a few seconds until aromatic and add the potato.

   Stir-fry the potato in the oil-and-spice mix for 3–4 minutes and add 3 tablespoons of water. Stir again, cover and allow to cook over low heat for about 10–15 minutes until the potato pieces are tender.

   For the dosai, follow instructions on the packet to make the batter and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Set the oven to warm.

   Gently warm a frying pan about 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) in diameter and generously brush or spray with oil. Pour a little batter into the pan and, using a circular motion, spread it around with the back of a spoon.

   Cook on medium heat for about 4 minutes. While the dosai cooks, sprinkle or spray some oil onto the top and around the edges so that it seeps under the dosai.

   When the edges start to brown, carefully lift the dosai onto an ovenproof plate. Place some filling along the center of the dosai, and fold over one side and then the other. Hold down for a few seconds and it will hold its shape.

   Keep warm while making more dosai. Serve warm with Coconut and Mint Chutney (page 173) and Sambhar (page 45).

 

TIP

Have two pans going at the same time, so that you have a cool one for starting each dosai.

PANEER SHASHLIK

Paneer or curd is used for a variety of Indian dishes both sweet and savory, particularly in northern India. It is rich in protein, making it a good substitute for meat in vegetarian meals. This dish is a tasty and colorful appetizer.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes (marinating time 2–3 hours)

8 oz (225 g) paneer (recipe page 24)

1 green pepper

1 red pepper

1 onion

2 firm tomatoes

5 fl oz (150 mL) plain yogurt

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp turmeric

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

1 tbsp chopped mint

juice of half a lemon

2 tbsp olive oil

   Cut the paneer into even-sized chunks about 1 x 1 inch (2.5 x 2.5 cm). Cut the peppers into squares and the onion and tomatoes into large chunks, about the same size as the paneer.

   Thread the paneer and vegetables onto 8 skewers (presoaked if you are using wooden ones), dividing the ingredients equally. Place in a shallow, nonmetallic dish that will hold the skewers in a single layer.

   Place all the remaining ingredients and half the oil into a bowl and mix until combined. Pour the marinade over the skewers, turning each skewer until the paneer and vegetables are well coated with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 2 or 3 hours.

   Remove the skewers from the fridge about half an hour before cooking and heat the grill or barbecue. Brush or spray the skewered ingredients with oil, and grill or barbecue on all sides for 3–4 minutes until the paneer and vegetables are charred around the edges.

   Serve hot with a spicy salad and naan or chapati.

SPRING ROLLS

Although the filling is a little different, Indian spring rolls are similar to Chinese spring rolls in appearance, texture and taste, only much spicier. This is quite an easy recipe that is even easier if you use ready-made spring-roll pastry available from Asian grocers and supermarkets.

SERVES 4–6

Preparation and cooking time: 35–40 minutes

Filling

2 tbsp olive oil

2 cloves of garlic, minced or finely chopped

small piece of ginger, grated (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

1 carrot, grated

1 green pepper, cut into thin strips

2 oz (50 g) cabbage, thinly sliced

2 oz (50 g) paneer (page 24), cut into small cubes

1½ tbsp soy sauce

 

Pastry

3 oz (100 g) plain flour

2 oz (50 g) cornstarch

1 small egg, beaten

oil for deep-frying

   Heat the oil in a karahi or saucepan and add the garlic and ginger. Stir-fry for a minute or two and add all the remaining ingredients for the filling except for the paneer and soy sauce, and mix well.

   Continue to stir-fry on medium heat for 5–6 minutes until the vegetables are tender crisp. Add a little water if required to prevent them from burning. Turn off the heat and stir in the paneer and soy sauce. Allow the vegetables to cool while making the pastry.

   Sift the flour and cornstarch into a medium bowl; add the beaten egg and enough water to make a thickish batter. Do not overmix.

   Heat a pancake pan, or nonstick frying pan, and brush or spray with a little oil. Pour in about 2 tablespoons of batter and spread thinly over the pan to make a thin pancake. Turn when the underside is lightly brown and brown the other side. Repeat with the remaining batter.

   Place a pancake on a flat surface in front of you. Put about a tablespoon of vegetable filling onto the half nearest to you, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edge. Fold this edge over the filling, fold over once more, then bring in the sides. Continue to roll tightly until you have a neat roll. Secure with a toothpick if necessary.

   Repeat with the remaining filling and pancakes.

   Deep-fry the rolls in hot oil until crisp and golden. Drain and serve with a sauce of your choice. Tamarind Sauce (page 50) or the Cilantro and Mint Drizzle (page 47) is delicious with these rolls.

ALOO KI TIKKI

A delicious snack any time of the day, Aloo Ki Tikki is a popular vegetarian appetizer in Indian restaurants. It is a tasty, spicy potato tikki (patty), panfried until golden and crispy. Serve it with an assortment of chutneys and sweet, sour or spicy sauces.

There are as many recipes for making these lovely little potato cakes as there are cooks. The one below is quick and easy.

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SERVES 4–6 (MAKES 12 PATTIES)

Preparation and cooking time: 35–40 minutes

8 oz (225 g) potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks

pat of butter

3 tbsp frozen peas

1/2 onion, finely chopped

1 tsp salt

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp green mango powder

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

1 tsp garam masala

oil for pan frying

   Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for about 15 minutes until tender. Drain well and return to the hot saucepan to dry off completely.

   Add the butter and mash the potato until smooth.

   Microwave or boil the peas until just cooked and add to the mashed potato with all the remaining ingredients except the oil. Mix well.

   Take about a tablespoon of mixture and, with oiled hands, roll first into a ball and then flatten slightly to make a patty. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture.

   Heat a heavy-based, nonstick frying pan and pour in enough oil to cover the base. Add the potato patties to the pan in batches and cook over low to medium heat for about 5 minutes each side until golden and crisp. Add a little more oil as required.

   Serve hot with Kashmiri Chat (page 39), Mango Chutney (page 171) or Tamarind Sauce (page 50).

 

TIP

For a lower-fat version, spray tikkies lightly with oil and bake in a hot oven at 425°F (220°C) for 20–25 minutes.

DHAL SOUP

A simple example of “fusion” cooking, this warming soup is simple to prepare and delicious to eat. You can use practically any combination of vegetables that are in season.

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SERVES 6–8

Preparation and cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes

1 cob of sweet corn

1 onion

1 medium potato

1 medium carrot

1 stick of celery

approx. 7 oz (200 g) butternut squash

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp chili powder

3 tbsp red lentils, washed

70 fl oz/4.2 US pints (2 L) water

1 vegetable stock cube

2 tsp salt or to taste

juice of a lime

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Remove husk and hairs from the corn and discard. Using a sharp knife, slice off the kernels. Peel and coarsely chop the remaining vegetables.

   Place all the vegetables in the bowl of a food processor and process briefly, or chop finely.

   Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan and add the spices. Fry for a few seconds and stir in the vegetables.

   Stir-fry for about 2 minutes and add the lentils, water, stock cube (crumbled) and salt. Bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and skim the froth off the surface.

   Partly cover and simmer for about an hour, stirring once or twice. Stir in the lime juice and cilantro, and serve.