10.  CHICKEN DISHES

MEAT AND poultry are not generally consumed daily in India, with some populations existing happily on a varied and nutritious diet consisting exclusively of grains, lentils, beans, vegetables and dairy foods. Chicken is a popular choice for nonvegetarian meals and is served in a myriad of tantalizing ways according to the style of cooking of the region or the styles adopted by restaurant chefs to create varied and tasty dishes for the restaurant menu.

Most of the curries served in Indian restaurants are made using chicken prepared and precooked every couple of days or so by the restaurant chef. Combined with a selection of spices, herbs and the curry sauce, they allow your meal to be served to you within minutes of you placing your order.

These preparation and cooking techniques, unique to restaurant cooking, also serve to differentiate the flavor and texture of Indian restaurant food from traditionally made dishes.

Using the method outlined here, you can precook the chicken, refrigerate or freeze it, and, together with some curry sauce, prepare one or more of the delicious curry recipes detailed in the following pages within about 20–25 minutes.

PREPARING CHICKEN

Preparation and cooking time: 25 minutes. For 6–8 people you will require:

5 large chicken breast fillets, preferably free-range (approximately 2 lb/900 g with skin and bone removed)

6 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp turmeric

4 tbsp reserved curry sauce, prepared to the end of step 2 (page 33)

With a sharp knife remove all fat and sinew from the chicken fillets, rinse and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each fillet into 8 equal-sized pieces, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Place the oil, turmeric and curry sauce into a large saucepan and mix well. Cook on medium heat, stirring continuously, until the sauce starts to darken in color (approximately 4–5 minutes).

Add the chicken and stir until all the pieces are well coated with the sauce. Turn down the heat, cover and continue cooking for 15–20 minutes, or until the chicken is tender, stirring frequently.

Remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon (leaving behind the remaining sauce) and place them in a clean container.

Use immediately or cool and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Freezing: Freeze for up to 2 months.

 

TIP

If you don’t have any reserved curry sauce, use 2 tablespoons of very finely chopped onion.

CHICKEN DISHES

CHICKEN METHIWALLA

Marinated chunks of chicken grilled and braised in a tasty, peppery, sun-dried fenugreek masala base.

CHICKEN YOGURT CURRY

Tender pieces of chicken breast in a lightly tangy yogurt-based sauce, robustly spiced.

MUGHLAI CASHEW JHOOL

Mildly spiced, opulently rich with cashew-nut paste and finished with cream.

CHICKEN AND CHICKPEA CURRY

A satisfying combination of tender chicken breast, chickpeas and mushrooms in a mildly spiced coconut-milk sauce.

CHICKEN CHETTINAD

A stunning south Indian speciality with coconut and a fragrant blend of lightly roast spices, tomatoes and curry leaves.

MURGH HARIYALI MASALA

Tender breast pieces marinated in fresh herbs, green chilies and spices. A fresh and flavorsome dish.

CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA

The all-time favorite, marinated chunks of chicken grilled and braised in a creamy sauce.

PARSI CHICKEN WITH APRICOTS

Boneless chicken stir-fried in an aromatic spice blend and simmered in a thick sauce with fresh, fruity flavors.

GOAN COCONUT CHICKEN

Chicken pieces in a delicious, generously spiced, tamarind-flavored creamy coconut sauce.

CHICKEN METHIWALLA

Methi is the Indian name for fenugreek leaves, which have a distinctly aromatic “curryish” smell and flavor. This dish is inspired by northern India, where methi is used much like spinach in meat and vegetable curries and snacks. Unlike spinach, it adds a lot of delicious flavor.

Fenugreek leaves can be purchased in bunches, much like cilantro, from Indian markets and supermarkets and are also easily grown (see page 18). Sun-dried methi is available in small packs and is generally of good quality. It can be used in place of fresh leaves if these are not available, but fresh is definitely best.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1 bunch (about 5 oz/150 g) fenugreek leaves, and chopped (or 2 oz/50 g dried leaves)

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp chili powder

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

1 tsp garam masala

   Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and add the fenugreek leaves. If you are using fresh leaves, cook on low heat for about 10 minutes. If you are using dried leaves, stir in hot oil for a few seconds only.

   Add the curry sauce, salt and chili powder and bring to a boil. Cook on high heat for about 5 minutes until the sauce is thick and the oil floats to the surface.

   Add the chicken and bring to a boil. Stir in the garam masala and simmer for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Serve.

CHICKEN YOGURT CURRY

This is a lovely creamy dish but without the calories of cream, combining a modified version of an authentic Indian food (the yogurt curry) with tender morsels of chicken. For best results use fresh homemade yogurt (page 24) or buy the freshest, best-quality plain yogurt you can find. No curry sauce is required for this dish.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes

9 fl oz (250 mL) plain yogurt

1 tbsp chickpea flour (besan)

1 tsp salt

7 fl oz (200 mL) cold water

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp black mustard seeds

1 tsp whole cumin seeds

1 onion, finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger (or a portion of prepared garlic and ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chilies, page 30)

1 tsp turmeric

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

1 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp finely chopped cilantro

   In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, chickpea flour, salt and water. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan, and add the mustard and cumin seeds. Fry for a few seconds on medium heat until they start to pop.

   Add the onion and fry for about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, ginger and chilies and stir-fry for a couple of minutes longer.

   Sprinkle on the turmeric, stir, and add the yogurt mixture. Bring to a boil stirring continuously and turn down the heat. Simmer, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes.

   Add the chicken and gently bring back to a simmer. Simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the garam masala and cilantro. Serve.

MUGHLAI CASHEW JHOOL

Dishes thickened with rich nut pastes were first introduced to India by the Mughals who settled in the north of the country in 1525. The Mughal emperors brought with them opulence formerly unknown to the region. Money was no object to the extravagant settlers, and their imagination was boundless. Their favorite foods — almonds, cream and dried fruits — were lavishly incorporated into the traditional cuisine. This beautifully spiced, deliciously creamy dish reflects some of the grandeur of that bygone era.

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SERVES 3–4

Preparation and cooking time: 20 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground coriander

6 green cardamom pods, crushed

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp Kashmiri chili powder or 1/2 tsp chili powder and 1/2 tsp paprika

1 tsp salt

4 tbsp thick cream

2 oz (50 g) raw cashew nuts, processed until fine. Note: Ground almonds may be used instead of cashews.

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

   Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and add the cumin, coriander and cardamom and fry for a few seconds. Add the curry sauce and bring to a boil.

   Stir in the chili powder, paprika (if you are using it) and salt. Simmer for about 5 minutes and stir in the cream and ground nuts.

   Simmer for another 5 minutes and stir in the chicken. Continue to cook on low heat for another 5 minutes, stirring often. Serve.

CHICKEN AND CHICKPEA CURRY

This delicious and unusual chicken curry is thought to originate on the southwest coast of India. It has distinct Goan and south Indian influences. The chickpeas and mushrooms make this curry almost a one-pot dish that is tasty, satisfying and nutritious.

SERVES 4–6

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp black mustard seeds

2 cloves of garlic, sliced

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, julienned

9 oz (250 g) mushrooms, sliced thickly

4 bay leaves, roughly torn

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of cinnamon

4 cardamom pods, crushed

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp turmeric

14 oz (400 g) can cooked chickpeas

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce, page 32

1/2 tsp paprika

1 tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

9 fl oz (250 mL) coconut milk

1 red chili, deseeded and sliced

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the mustard seeds. Shake the pan over the heat for a few seconds until the seeds start to pop, and add the garlic, ginger and mushrooms.

   Stir-fry for 3 minutes and add the bay leaves, cinnamon, cardamoms, coriander, cumin, chili and turmeric. Fry for a minute and stir in the chickpeas, curry sauce, paprika and salt.

   Bring to a boil, and cook on high for 5 minutes until the sauce thickens. Add the chicken and coconut milk, bring back to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.

   Stir through the red chili and serve sprinkled with cilantro.

CHICKEN CHETTINAD

Chettinad, a prosperous region in Tamil Nadu, southern India, is renowned for its spice concoctions. Historically a trading region, spices were one of the main commodities traded. It is thought that this is why there is such an abundant use of spices in its cuisine. Therefore, this recipe does require a number of different spices, but once you smell the beautiful aroma of the roasted spices, I think you will feel it’s worth it. Fresh coconut will produce the best results, but dried, shredded coconut is fine.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Spice mix

2 tsp olive oil

1 tsp poppy seeds

1/2 tsp fennel seeds

1/2 tsp coriander seeds

1/2 tsp black peppercorns

3–4 dried red chilies

just under 1-inch (2 cm) piece of cinnamon,

broken into small pieces

5 green cardamom pods

2 cloves

1 tbsp grated coconut (or shredded coconut)

 

Remaining ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil

4 curry leaves

1 ripe tomato, chopped

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp chili powder

1 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp turmeric

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

4 cherry tomatoes, halved, or a large tomato sliced into 8 pieces

juice of half a lime

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a small pan and roast the spices and coconut on low heat for about a minute until aromatic. Cool and grind to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar or electric grinder.

   Heat the remaining oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and add the curry leaves, stir for a few seconds and add the chopped tomato. Stir-fry for 3 or 4 minutes until pulpy and add the spice mix. Fry on low heat for about 5 minutes, until the mixture starts releasing the oil.

   Add the curry sauce, salt, chili powder, paprika and turmeric and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 5 minutes. The sauce will be quite thick because of the spice mix. Add a little water if required.

   Add the chicken, bring back to a simmer and cook for 3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, lime juice and cilantro, and serve.

MURGH HARIYALI MASALA

This is absolutely delicious and so simple and quick to prepare. It is essential to use fresh herbs though; they are the backbone of this spectacular dish. Curry sauce is not required for this dish.

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SERVES 3–4

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes (plus marinating time)

3 chicken fillets (about 1 lb or 450 g)

1 tsp salt

4 tbsp cilantro

4 tbsp mint leaves

4 fresh curry leaves

4 green garlic tops (optional)

4 spring onions

2–3 green chilies

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, roughly chopped

2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped

1 tsp garam masala

6 tbsp yogurt

2 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp thick cream

1 tsp chickpea flour (besan)

3 fl oz (100 mL) hot water

   Wash the chicken fillets, pat dry with paper towels, and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks. Place in a large bowl.

   Put the salt, herbs, spring onions, chilies, ginger, garlic, garam masala, yogurt and 1 tablespoon of the oil into the blender or food processor and process to a paste.

   Add the herb paste to the chicken, mix well and refrigerate for 2–3 hours or overnight.

   Remove from the fridge about half an hour before cooking and stir in the cream and chickpea flour.

   Heat a wide, heavy-based (preferably nonstick) frying pan and add the remaining oil. Add the chicken and all the marinade to the pan and stir-fry on high heat until the chicken is opaque.

   Turn down the heat a little, and continue to cook, stirring and turning the chicken pieces, until the sauce is quite dry, at which point it will release the oil (about 6–7 minutes).

   Continue cooking for a few minutes longer until the chicken pieces start to brown slightly. Now add the water and stir in to create a thick, creamy sauce.

   Simmer gently for 3 or 4 minutes. Add more water if you want a little more sauce.

   Serve.

Note: The chickpea flour is important as it prevents the sauce from spitting.

CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA

No Indian restaurant cookbook could be complete without a recipe for the famous Chicken Tikka Masala.

Chicken Tikka Masala is probably, more than any other restaurant dish, a hybrid of Indian and Western tastes: tikka is a morsel of roasted meat, traditionally eaten without curry sauce or gravy, a practice seemingly unattractive to Western palates. The masala part of the dish is the Western touch that possibly came about in Glasgow in the 1960s when a long-suffering Indian chef mixed some spices and yogurt into canned tomato soup and presented his ever-complaining customers with the sauce they demanded. The rest, as they say, is history.

With a few enhancements since that fateful time, the dish has become an icon of Indian restaurant cuisine. Indeed, in 2001, Britain’s foreign minister Robin Cook declared it to be Britain’s “national dish” and the British consume vast amounts of it each week. It is, in fact, even more popular than fish and chips.

There are many recipes for Chicken Tikka Masala. This one is easy to prepare and quite delicious.

SERVES 3–4

Preparation and cooking time: 15 minutes

4 tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp ground cumin

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp salt

1 level tsp chili powder

pinch of red food coloring (optional)

1 tsp garam masala

3 chicken fillets, freshly made into chicken tikka (page 58)

6 tbsp light cream

1 tbsp finely chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a large, deep frying pan, and stir in the cumin. Fry for a few seconds and add the curry sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil.

   Add the paprika, salt, chili powder and food coloring (if you are using it), and continue to cook on high heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes or until the sauce thickens.

   Turn down the heat and stir in the garam masala. Simmer for about 3 minutes.

   Meanwhile, slice each piece of chicken tikka in two and add to the sauce. Stir in the cream and simmer for another 2–3 minutes.

   Serve sprinkled with the cilantro.

 

TIP

If you have a little Tandoori Marinade (page 57) left over, stir a couple of teaspoons of it into the sauce just before the cream. It adds extra color and flavor.

PARSI CHICKEN WITH APRICOTS

This delicious Parsi dish has a lovely balance of sweet and sour flavors derived from juicy apricots, soft brown sugar and vinegar. Lamb can be used instead of chicken for a change.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp tomato paste

1/2 tsp turmeric

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp chili powder

1 tsp paprika

6 dried apricots, quartered

1 tsp soft brown sugar

1 tbsp vinegar

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

1 tbsp thick cream

1 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and add the tomato paste and turmeric. Stir-fry for a minute.

   Add the curry sauce, salt, chili powder, paprika, apricots, sugar and vinegar. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

   Stir in the chicken, bring back to a boil and simmer, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

   Stir in the cream and garam masala. Simmer for a minute. Serve sprinkled with cilantro.

GOAN COCONUT CHICKEN

Nowhere is the Portuguese influence more evident than in the delicious and colorful cuisine of Goa. Although seafood and rice are the staples, this chicken recipe encompasses all that is good about Goan food. It has lots of tasty sauce to eat with rice and bread.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

Spice mix

1/2 tsp fennel seeds

1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

1/2 tsp black peppercorns

1 tsp coriander seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

4 green cardamoms

4 cloves

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of cinnamon

 

Remaining ingredients

3 tbsp olive oil

1/2 tsp turmeric

12 fl oz (325 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp salt

1 tsp chili powder

1 tsp paprika

11 fl oz (300 mL) coconut cream

1 lb (450 g) precooked chicken fillets (page 59)

2 tsp tamarind paste dissolved in 2 tbsp warm water

   Grind all the spices for the spice mix to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar or electric grinder.

   Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan and add the spice mix. Fry on medium heat for about a minute until aromatic.

   Stir in the turmeric, curry sauce, salt, chili powder and paprika. Bring to a boil and cook on high heat for about 3 minutes until thickened slightly. Turn down the heat.

   Add the coconut cream and bring slowly to a simmer. Add the chicken to the sauce and mix well. Simmer for about 5 minutes.

   Stir in the tamarind and serve.