11.  LAMB DISHES

THROUGHOUT its long history, India has been invaded by foreign armies of traders and settlers from all over the world, beginning with the Greeks, led by Alexander the Great, as far back as 326 BCE, followed by many others from various destinations over the ages. The culinary influence of Greek, Middle Eastern, Portuguese and English invaders is clearly evident in Indian cuisine.

The rich and opulent Mughal settlers of the 16th century introduced meat dishes to the Indian nation, whose people had existed for centuries on grains, pulses, nuts, fruits and dairy products. Although goat is the preferred meat for the non-Muslim population, lamb is widely consumed throughout India.

Precooked lamb pieces are always in the restaurant fridge, ready to be combined with various herbs and spices according to the dish that is being prepared. Tender, good-quality meat is essential for most of the curries served in Indian restaurants, the tougher cuts being reserved for any traditional, slow-cooked dishes that may be on the menu.

Leg of lamb is the cut of choice for the majority of restaurant curries. Have a butcher remove the bone and trim the fat and gristle from the meat. Cut the remaining lean meat into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes and prepare as shown here. If you wish to use cuts with the bone in, increase the quantities accordingly.

Note: The meat has a tendency to dry out when refrigerated. Spoon some of the oil left in the pan onto the meat, coating each piece to keep it moist.

PREPARING LAMB

Serves 6–8

2 lb (900 g) boned, diced lamb

8 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tsp turmeric

4 tbsp reserved curry sauce, prepared to the end of step 2 (page 33)

Wash the meat and pat dry with paper towels. Place the oil, turmeric and curry sauce in a large saucepan and mix well. Cook on medium heat, stirring continuously until the sauce begins to darken in color (4–5 minutes).

Add the meat and stir until all the pieces are well coated. Turn down the heat and cook, covered, for 30–40 minutes or until the meat is tender. Add a little water to prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning, and stir frequently.

Remove the lamb pieces using a slotted spoon, leaving behind the remaining sauce, and place in a clean container.

Use immediately, or cool and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Freezing: Freeze for up to 2 months.

LAMB DISHES

PARSI LAMB CURRY

Boned, diced leg of lamb simmered in a tangy, aromatic spice mixture with garlic, ginger and tomatoes, served with crispy potato straws.

LAMB KALIA

Tender diced lamb and crisp potato chunks, in a lightly spiced sauce.

BHINDI GHOST

Lamb and okra curry. A fragrant mix of fresh okra, diced lamb and roasted spices in a tasty masala base.

TAMATAR GHOST

Boneless diced lamb, braised with vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh herbs and spices.

BADAMI LAMB PASANDA

Marinated, tender strips of lamb fillet in a mildly spiced, lusciously creamy and aromatically flavorful sauce.

KALI MIRCH KA GHOST

Tender lamb pieces simmered in a spicy sauce flavored with gently roasted black peppercorns.

MUGHAL LAMB WITH TURNIPS

Succulent pieces of lamb, in a rich, dark sauce with sweet, juicy turnips. Inspired by the decadent Mughal era.

ROGAN JOSH

Tender pieces of lamb in a delicious thick sauce flavored with an aromatic spice blend. An old favorite.

PARSI LAMB CURRY

The unique fruity, spicy flavors of this dish are inspired by the Parsi style of cooking, which, in turn, is a combination of Gujerati and Iranian cuisine. The crispy fried potato straws, sali, add a lovely crunch to the dish.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 20–25 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1-inch (2.5 cm) stick of cinnamon

4 cardamom pods

6 curry leaves

1 tbsp tomato paste

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tbsp vinegar

2 tsp soft brown sugar

1 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp turmeric

1/2 tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

1 tsp garam masala

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

Sali, to serve (optional)

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the cinnamon, cardamoms and curry leaves. Stir for a few seconds and add the tomato paste. Stir-fry for about a minute.

   Stir in the curry sauce, vinegar, sugar, chili powder, turmeric and salt and bring to a boil. Cook the sauce on high heat for about 3 minutes until thickened slightly.

   Add the lamb to the sauce and bring back to a boil. Stir in the garam masala and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and ladle into a serving dish.

   Sprinkle on the Sali (if it is being used) and serve.

 

SALI

(CRISPY POTATO STRAWS)

Grate or julienne 2 large peeled potatoes and soak in salted, chilled water for a few minutes.

Drain the potato well and spread on a tea towel until dry.

Deep-fry potato in hot oil until golden brown. Drain and serve with Parsi Lamb Curry.

LAMB KALIA

This dish of tender lamb and fried potatoes is based on the Kashmiri dish kalia. Kalia is traditionally made with mutton marinated in yogurt and ginger (to tenderize it), followed by long simmering, but the restaurant version is, by comparison, quick and easy to prepare. Sometimes fried cauliflower is also added to the dish with the potatoes.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes

2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled

1 tsp salt, plus a little extra

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, sliced

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, grated

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

7 fl oz (200 mL) plain yogurt

1 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp paprika

1/2 tsp turmeric

1 tsp ground coriander

14 fl oz (400 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

1/2 tsp garam masala

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Cut the potatoes into approximately 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks and cook in boiling, salted water for about 5 minutes or until just tender. Drain well and sprinkle lightly with a little salt.

   While the potatoes are boiling, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy-based frying pan and fry the onion slices until lightly browned. Set aside.

   Combine the ginger, garlic, yogurt, chili powder, paprika, turmeric, salt and coriander in a small bowl.

   Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in the same pan used for the onions and add the yogurt mixture. Stir-fry for 3 minutes and add the curry sauce. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce is thick and the oil rises to the surface.

   Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in another frying pan and fry the potato on medium heat, turning until all sides are golden.

   Add the meat to the yogurt and curry sauce mixture and bring back to a boil. Add the garam masala and simmer for 5 minutes.

   Stir half the potato chunks and half the cilantro into the onion mixture. Reheat for a minute. Serve sprinkled with the remaining crispy potato chunks and remaining cilantro.

BHINDI GHOST

The bhindi, also called okra or ladies’ fingers, add an extra dimension to this dish by helping to thicken and flavor the sauce. Be careful not to cook the bhindi for more than the specified time as they have a tendency to become slimy. It is important to wash and dry the bhindi before slicing them for the same reason.

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SERVES 4–5

Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes

Spice mix

8 black peppercorns

3 cloves

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp coriander seeds

4 green cardamom pods

 

Remaining ingredients

9 oz (250 g) bhindi (okra)

3 tbsp olive oil

1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chili, page 30)

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 tsp salt

1 tsp turmeric

½ tsp chili powder

18 fl oz (525 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

½ tsp garam masala

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   In a small dry pan, roast the peppercorns, cloves, cumin, coriander and cardamoms for about 2 minutes over medium heat. Remove the spices from the hot pan as soon as they become aromatic. Cool, and grind in a pestle and mortar or electric grinder.

   Meanwhile, wash the bhindi whole, drain well and pat dry with paper towels or a clean tea towel until quite dry. Slice into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces.

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and fry the ginger and garlic for about a minute. Add the green chilies and fry for another minute.

   Stir in the tomatoes, salt and turmeric and cook over low heat for a few minutes until the tomatoes are soft and pulpy.

   Add the bhindi to the pan, sprinkle the chili powder and roast spices onto the mixture. Stir-fry on medium heat for 4 or 5 minutes.

   Add the curry sauce and bring to a boil, cook on medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until thickened.

   Add the meat, bring back to a boil and simmer for another 5 minutes. Stir in the garam masala and cilantro, and serve.

TAMATAR GHOST

Fresh ripe tomatoes add color, freshness and flavor to this simple lamb curry. High-quality, flavorful tomatoes are a must for a really tasty dish.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 25-30 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp ground cumin

2 tsp ground coriander

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

½ tsp salt

½ tsp turmeric

½ tsp chili powder

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

½ tsp garam masala

½ tsp dried ground fenugreek leaves

6 cherry tomatoes, halved

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the cumin and coriander. Stir-fry for a few seconds and add the tomatoes, salt, turmeric and chili powder.

   Stir-fry on high heat for a couple of minutes then turn down the heat and simmer the tomatoes on low heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is pulpy, dark red and releasing the oil. This will take about 10 minutes.

   Add the curry sauce and bring to a boil. Boil on high for about 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened.

   Stir in the lamb and bring back to a boil. Add the garam masala and fenugreek leaves, and simmer for 5 minutes.

   Stir through the cherry tomatoes and half the cilantro. Heat for about a minute.

   Serve sprinkled with the remaining cilantro.

BADAMI LAMB PASANDA

Pasanda is a popular north Indian and Pakistani dish with its origins in the royal courts of the Mughal emperors. It is a deliciously fragrant and satisfying dish that is usually made with lamb but can be made with any meat, vegetable or with paneer. The lamb fillets used in this recipe cook really quickly and are beautifully tender, but leg meat works just as well with longer cooking.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes (plus marinating time of 15–30 minutes)

1 lb 2 oz (500 g) lamb fillets

2 cloves of garlic, minced or finely chopped

small piece of ginger, grated (or a portion of prepared garlic-and-ginger mix, page 30, thawed)

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or half a portion of prepared chili, page 30)

1 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves

3 tbsp plain yogurt

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp turmeric

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp salt

½ tsp paprika

4 tbsp half-and-half cream

1 tbsp ground almonds

½ tsp garam masala

1 tbsp rose water (optional)

   Trim the lamb fillets, and using a meat mallet or rolling pin, flatten until just over ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick. Cut into slices about 1½ inches (3.5 cm) long and just over ½ inch (1 cm) wide.

   Combine the garlic, ginger, chili, mint and yogurt in a medium bowl and add the meat. Stir well to coat the meat slices with the marinade. Leave to marinate for 15–30 minutes.

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and carefully (it will splutter) add the meat and marinade. Stir-fry for about 3 minutes on medium-high heat or until most of the liquid evaporates.

   Add the coriander, cumin and turmeric and stir-fry for a minute. Stir in the curry sauce and salt and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce thickens.

   Stir in the paprika, cream and ground almonds and simmer for another 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the garam masala and heat through for a minute.

   Remove from the heat and stir in the rose water, if you are using it. Serve.

KALI MIRCH KA GHOST

This dish of tender lamb pieces has a delicious peppery bite to it. Use whole black peppercorns, crushed, and don’t be tempted to use ground black pepper.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 15–20 minutes

1 tsp whole black peppercorns, crushed

3 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp ground coriander

1 tbsp tomato paste

½ tsp turmeric

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

½ tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

4 whole green chilies, slit lengthwise

½ tsp garam masala

2 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Dry-roast the peppercorns in a small pan over medium heat for a minute or two until aromatic. Remove from the pan and set aside.

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the ground coriander. Stir-fry for a few seconds and stir in the tomato paste and turmeric.

   Cook on medium heat for 2 minutes and add the curry sauce and salt. Bring to a boil and cook on high heat, stirring often, until the sauce is really thick and the oil rises to the surface. This will take about 4–5 minutes.

   Add the lamb, roasted peppercorns and chilies. Bring back to a boil, stir in the garam masala and simmer gently, stirring often, for 5 minutes to allow the meat to absorb the flavors. Stir in half the cilantro.

   Serve sprinkled with the remaining cilantro.

MUGHAL LAMB WITH TURNIPS

The Mughals didn’t do anything by halves and this dish is testament to that — this is a dish that in times of old would have been served in the royal palaces. Richly spiced, but not chilihot, this is a dish to make when young, sweet turnips are in season.

If you can, use larger lamb pieces as prepared for Balti Meat (page 90) for more authenticity.

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SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 25–30 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

2 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

3 green cardamom pods, crushed

1 tbsp tomato paste

½ tsp turmeric

2 green chilies, finely chopped (or a half portion of prepared chilli, page 30)

9 oz (250 g) turnips, cut into chunks

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

1 tsp paprika

1 tsp salt

1 lb 2 oz (500 g) precooked lamb (page 71) or prepared as for balti meat (page 90)

½ tsp garam masala

1 tbsp thick cream

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the coriander, cumin and cardamom. Stir-fry for a few seconds and add the tomato paste, turmeric and green chilies.

   Fry for 1 minute and stir in the turnips. Stir-fry on medium heat for 2 minutes and add the curry sauce, paprika and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.

   Add the lamb and bring back to a boil and simmer again for 8–10 minutes or until the turnips are tender, the sauce has almost completely reduced and the oil has separated from the sauce.

   Stir in the garam masala and cream, and cook for a minute longer. Serve.

ROGAN JOSH

Although there are many recipes available for Rogan Josh, it is such an old favorite I thought I would include it in this book as well. I have made some alterations to the classic recipe in keeping with changing tastes and demands.

SERVES 4

Preparation and cooking time: 15–20 minutes

3 tbsp olive oil

1-inch (2.5 cm) stick of cinnamon

3 cloves

4 green cardamom pods

1 tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cumin

15 fl oz (425 mL) curry sauce (page 32)

2 tsp paprika

1 tsp chili powder

½ tsp salt

1 lb (450 g) precooked lamb (page 71)

½ tsp garam masala

4 tbsp plain yogurt

1 tbsp chopped cilantro

   Heat the oil in a deep, heavy-based frying pan and add the cinnamon stick, cloves, cardamoms, coriander and cumin. Stir-fry for a few seconds.

   Add the curry sauce, paprika, chili powder and salt, and bring to a boil. Continue to cook on high heat stirring often, for about 5 minutes or until the sauce has thickened.

   Add the meat and bring back to a boil. Turn down the heat and add the garam masala. Simmer for 5 minutes.

   Stir in the yogurt, 1 tablespoon at a time, waiting until each addition is completely incorporated before adding the next. Simmer and continue stirring for a minute after all the yogurt has been added.

   Serve sprinkled with the cilantro.