Lacy Accessories

Drooping Elm Headband

Designed by Barbara Benson

A light and lacy cotton headband can be the perfect accessory on a warm summer day. Knitted in cotton, this one tapers to a narrow strip at the back and joins end to end with a button closure, making it comfortable as well as practical.

• Finished Measurements: 4"/10 cm wide and 20"/51 cm long
• Yarn: Berroco Pure Pima, 100% pima cotton, 115 yds (106 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color 2267 Teal
• Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) straight needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 22 stitches and 22 rows = 4"/10 cm in pattern
• Other Supplies: Button with shank, yarn needle
• Special Abbreviations: sssk slip 3 stitches individually knitwise, place left-hand needle into front of slipped stitches and knit them together — 2 stitches decreased

Knitting the Headband

• Cast on 12 stitches.
• Row 1 (WS): Knit.
• Row 2 (RS): K6, yo, K6. Note: The yo forms the buttonhole. For a large button, work k6, yo twice, k6.
• Row 3: Knit. Note: If you worked 2 yos for a large button in the previous row, knit 1 and drop the other. You now have 13 stitches.
• Rows 4–13: Work in pattern from chart A. You now have 22 stitches.

  Drooping Elm A

  
• Rows 14–63: Work Rows 14–23 of chart B five times.

  Drooping Elm B

  

  Note: Chart B begins with 22 stitches, decreases to 21 stitches for Rows 16 and 17, then increases back to 22 stitches for Rows 18–23.

• Rows 64–85: Work Rows 64–85 of chart C. You now have 7 stitches.

  Drooping Elm C

  
• Rows 86–110: Knit.

Finishing

• Bind off, leaving a long tail to attach the button. Attach button to the end of narrow strip. Weave in ends. Block.

Lucy Steele’s Fancywork Bags

Designed by Kirsti Johanson

Lucy Steele from Jane Austen’s Sense and Sensibility is the inspiration for these bags. The larger bag features I-cord handles and can be used as a small tote. The smaller bag has a satin ribbon closure and can be used as a dresser bag.

• Finished Measurements:
  • Large bag: 4" × 4"/10 × 10 cm base and 6¹⁄₂"/16.5 cm tall
  • Small bag: 2¹⁄₂" × 2¹⁄₂"/6.5 × 6.5 cm base and 4¹⁄₄"/11 cm tall
• Yarn:
  • Large bag: Madelinetosh Tosh Vintage, 100% superwash merino wool, 200 yds (183 m)/3.5 oz (100 g), French Grey
  • Small bag: Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light, 100% superwash merino wool, 420 yds (384 m)/3.5 oz (100 g), French Grey
• Needles:
  • Large bag: Set of five US 7 (4.5 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
  • Small bag: Set of five US 4 (3.5 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge:
  • Large bag: 16 stitches and 24 rows = 4"/10 cm in Fancywork Lace pattern
  • Small bag: 26 stitches and 36 rows = 4"/10 cm in Fancywork Lace pattern
• Other Supplies:
  • Large bag: Stitch marker, 160 (approximately 16 g) size 6° glass beads, small steel crochet hook that fits through the beads, size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook, scrap yarn for holder, yarn needle, ¹⁄₂ yd/0.5 m lining fabric; sewing needle and coordinating thread
  • Small bag: Stitch marker, 160 size 8° (approximately 4 g) seed beads, small steel crochet hook that fits through beads, size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook, 18"/45.5 cm thin satin ribbon, yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Place Bead: Slide a bead onto the crochet hook, remove next stitch from left-hand needle with the crochet hook, push the bead down onto the stitch, return stitch to left-hand needle, then work the beaded stitch in pattern.

Knitting the Base

Note: Both bags are worked according to the same instructions; the different yarn and needles determine the finished size.

• Cast on 16 stitches using a provisional method (see pages 297–298).
• Knit 32 rows, but do not turn the work at the end of the last row.
• Rotate work 90 degrees and use a separate needle to pick up and knit (see page 297) 1 stitch in each garter ridge along the selvedge (16 stitches).
• Rotate work 90 degrees, undo provisional cast on, place 16 live stitches on another needle, then knit these 16 stitches.
• Rotate work 90 degrees and use another needle to pick up and knit 1 stitch in each garter ridge along the remaining selvedge (16 stitches).

  You now have 64 stitches total: 16 stitches each on four needles.

• Place marker for beginning of round and knit 1 round.

Knitting the Lace

• Work Rounds 1–26 of the Fancywork Lace chart, ending 1 stitch before the beginning-of-round marker on Round 26. Temporarily slip the last stitch to the right-hand needle, remove marker, return slipped stitch to the left-hand needle, then replace the marker (repositioning the marker in this manner allows the sk2p decreases in Round 27 to align properly with the rest of the pattern). Work Rounds 27–38 of chart. Do not cut yarn.

  Fancywork Lace

  

Finishing the Large Bag

Crocheting the Top Loops

• Place the first stitch of the round on a scrap yarn holder; this stitch will later become the 4th stitch in the last group of held handle stitches.
• Using the larger (non-steel) crochet hook and yarn attached to the held stitch, insert crochet hook near the base of the stitch, yarn over hook, and draw up a loop. Single crochet the next 3 stitches together (sc3tog) by inserting the hook into the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th stitches of the round, yarn over hook, and draw a loop through these 3 stitches, then yarn over the hook and draw through both loops on hook. Continue as follows.
• (Ch 8, sc3tog) three times. You now have 3 stitches remaining of the 16 stitches on this side of the bag, and 1 loop on the hook.
• Place the next 4 stitches on scrap yarn (last 3 stitches on this needle and first stitch on next needle).
• *Ch 8, work 1 sc behind the held stitches, (ch 8, sc3tog) four times, place next 4 stitches on scrap yarn holder; repeat from * two more times, ending the last repeat by placing last 3 stitches of the round on the same holder as the first held stitch, then ch 8, and join with a slip stitch to first sc3tog of round. Cut yarn and fasten off last stitch.

Knitting the Handles (make 2)

• Return one set of 4 held stitches to needle, rejoin yarn, and work I-cord (see page 292) until handle is desired length (sample shown has 36 rows). Use Kitchener stitch (see page 293) to join I-cord stitches to an adjacent set of 4 held stitches. Work the other handle in the same manner. Weave in ends.

Lining the Bag

• Cut a piece of lining fabric for the base that is 4"/10 cm square plus seam allowances.
• Cut a piece of lining fabric for the bag that is 16"/41 cm × 6¹⁄₂"/16.5 cm plus seam allowances.
• Hem one long side of the lining rectangle for the top of the bag. Sew the two short sides of the rectangle together, making a tube. Sew the unfinished edge of the tube to the four sides of the base piece. Slip the lining into the bag with wrong sides of lining and bag touching, and use a sewing needle and thread to slipstitch the lining to the inside of the bag along the last knitted round.

Finishing the Small Bag

Crocheting the Top Loops

• Using the larger (non-steel) crochet hook, insert the crochet hook near base of the first stitch of the round, yarn over hook, and draw up a loop. Single crochet the first 2 stitches together (sc2tog) by inserting the hook into the first and second stitches of the round, yarn over hook, and draw a loop through these 2 stitches, then yarn over hook and draw through both loops on hook. *Ch 5, sc2tog; repeat from * until no stitches remain on needle, ch 5, and join with a slip stitch in first sc2tog of round. Cut yarn and fasten off last stitch. Weave in ends. Thread the ribbon through the eyelets in Round 31 of the chart; string 3 beads onto each end of the ribbon and knot the ribbon to keep them in place.

Wavelet Hair Tie

Designed by Jenise Reid

Here’s a great example of working with fine lace-weight yarn on large needles — the result is very light and airy. Use this tie on your ponytail, wear it tied as a headband, or wear it around your neck as a scarf. Anything goes.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 7"/18 cm wide and 36"/91.5 cm long
• Yarn: Estelle Super Alpaca Lace, 100% superfine alpaca, 437 yds (400 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color 10106 Note: One skein produces three or four ties.
• Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) straight needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 16¹⁄₂ stitches and 16¹⁄₂ rows = 4"/10 cm in pattern, blocked
• Other Supplies: Yarn needle

Knitting the Hair Tie

• Cast on 5 stitches.
• Work Rows 1–30 of chart A once. You now have 29 stitches.

  Wavelet Lace A

  
• Work Rows 31–54 of chart B four times.

  Wavelet Lace B

  
• Work Rows 55–75 of chart C once. You now have 5 stitches.

  Wavelet Lace C

  
• Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends. Block.

Linen Lace Belt

Designed by Laura H. Turnbull

Pair this linen belt with your favorite tank dress for a lovely summer outfit or wear it with your favorite jeans. Knit with a simple two-row repeating lace pattern, it works up quickly — you may want to knit several in different colors.

• Finished Measurements: 1¹⁄₂"/4 cm wide and 38"/96.5 cm long
• Yarn: Quince & Co. Sparrow, 100% organic linen, 168 yds (154 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Sans
• Needles: US 00 (1.75 mm) straight needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge and US 1 (2.25 mm) short circular needle for cast on
• Gauge: 35 stitches and 42 rows = 4"/10 cm in Linen Lace pattern
• Other Supplies: Two 1¹⁄₂"/4 cm D rings, yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Lace (worked over 13 stitches)

Row 1 (RS): K1 tbl, k2, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k3.

Row 2 (WS): K1 tbl, knit to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

Knitting the Belt

• Cast on 26 stitches as follows.
• Hold one size 00 straight needle next to the size 1 circular needle. Using the backward loop method (see page 290) and alternating between the needles, cast on 13 stitches onto each needle.
• Using the other size 00 needle, knit 10 rows with the stitches from the size 00 needle cast-on stitches.
• Hold the D rings together and pass the circular needle through the rings. Bring the live stitches on the size 00 needle together with the stitches on the circular needle so they surround the straight part of the D rings. Knit 1 stitch from each needle together 13 times. You now have 13 stitches on the size 00 needle. Knit 2 more rows.
• Work Rows 1 and 2 of Linen Lace pattern from the text or chart until belt is ¹⁄₂"/13 mm less than desired length, ending with Row 2.

  Linen Lace

  

Decreasing the End

• Row 1 (RS): Ssk, k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k1, k2tog. You now have 11 stitches.
• Rows 2 and 4 (WS): K1 tbl, knit to end of row.
• Row 3: Ssk, k1, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k1, k2tog. You now have 9 stitches.
• Row 5: Ssk, k1, yo, sk2p, yo, k1, k2tog. You now have 7 stitches.
• Row 6: K1 tbl, knit to end of row.

Finishing

• Bind off all stitches knitwise. Weave in ends.

Lacy Legs!

Designed by Marina Orry

Around the house or around town, these lacy ribs will keep your legs nice and warm. The simple lace rib pattern makes these a great project for beginning lace knitters.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 8¹⁄₂"/21.5 cm circumference, unstretched, and 14"/35.5 cm tall
• Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220, 100% wool, 220 yds (201 m)/3.5 oz (100 g), Color 8339 Marine
• Needles: US 8 (5 mm) 32"/80 cm circular needle for magic loop method (see page 295) or set of US 8 (5 mm) double-point needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 22¹⁄₂ stitches and 25 rounds = 4"/10 cm in Lacy Rib pattern
• Other Supplies: Stitch marker, yarn needle

Pattern Essentials

Lacy Rib (multiple of 6 stitches)

Round 1: *K2, p1, yo, k2tog tbl, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3: *K2, p1, k2tog, yo, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Repeat Rounds 1–4 for pattern.

Knitting the Warmers (make 2)

• Loosely cast on 48 stitches. Place marker and join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
• Round 1: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
• Repeat Round 1 nine more times (10 rib rounds total).
• Following the written instructions or the chart, work Rounds 1–4 of Lacy Rib pattern 17 times, then work Rounds 1 and 2 once more (70 lace rounds total).

  Lacy Rib

  
• Work 10 rounds in k2, p1 rib as at the beginning.

Finishing

• Bind off loosely in rib. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

Gabriella Bracelet and Choker

Designed by Nancy Miller

A choker that Nancy’s daughter wears inspired her to knit this jewelry set, made to showcase beautiful beads and her favorite shade of green. The hemp fiber will wear in like your favorite pair of jeans.

• Finished Measurements: Bracelet is 7"/18 cm around, including button; choker is 13"/ 33 cm around, including button
• Yarn: B. Toucan Inc. Ultra-Fine Dyed Hemp, 100% hemp, 33 yds (30 m)/spool, Forest Green
• Needles: US 2¹⁄₂ (3 mm) straight needles
• Gauge: Not crucial to project
• Other Supplies: Big-eye beading needle, two decorative flat beads of your choice with holes large enough to accommodate a double strand of hemp, six small beads to use as clasp stoppers with holes large enough to accommodate a double strand of hemp, yarn needle

Knitting the Bracelet

• Cast on 6 stitches, leaving a 10"/25.5 cm tail.
• All Rows: Slip 1 purlwise wyib, k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
• Repeat this row until bracelet reaches the desired length when stretched (taking button size into account). Bind off, leaving a 10"/25.5 cm tail.

Knitting the Choker

• Cast on 4 stitches, leaving a 10"/ 25.5 cm tail.
• All Rows: K1, yo, p2tog, k1.
• Repeat this row until choker reaches the desired length when stretched (taking button size into account). Bind off, leaving a 10"/25.5 cm tail.

Finishing the Bracelet and Choker

• Thread one tail through the big-eye beading needle, and pass it through one hole of the flat bead and back through the other hole, leaving a loop large enough to fit the 3 stopper beads through. Secure the tail to the edge of the piece and then thread it through the bead again following the same path and matching the length of the first loop. Secure the tail by weaving it into several stitches so it blends in and trim flush with surface of piece.
• On the other end, thread the tail through the big-eye beading needle, pass through the three stopper beads. Secure the tail to the edge of the piece and pass through all three beads along the same path a second time to form the end of the clasp that will slip through the loop on the flat bead. Secure the tail by weaving it into several stitches and trim flush with surface of piece.
• To close, slide the flat bead toward the bracelet/choker, put the end with three beads through the loop, and slide the flat bead back to tighten the loop.
  

Lace Headbands

Designed by Kim Cameron

These three headbands are great projects for a beginner; they also make a quick and easy gift for more experienced lace knitters. One skein made all three designs shown here.

• Finished Measurements: 2"/5 cm wide and 20"/51 cm long
• Yarn: Knit Picks CotlLin DK, 70% Tanguis cotton/ 30% linen, 123 yds (112 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color 23996 Moroccan Red
• Needles: US 3 (3.25 mm) straight needles or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 11 stitches = 2"/5 cm in lace pattern
• Other Supplies: Yarn needle, two ¹⁄₂"/13 mm buttons (for each headband), sewing needle, matching thread

Pattern Essentials

Lace A (worked over 11 stitches)

Row 1 (RS): (K3, p1) twice, k3.

Row 2 (WS): K1, p2, k1, p3, k1, p2, k1.

Row 3: K1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, k2tog, k1.

Row 4: K2, p3, k1, p3, k2.

Row 5: K1, (p1, k3) twice, p1, k1.

Row 6: K2, p3, k1, p3, k2.

Row 7: K1, p1, yo, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, k3tog, yo, p1, k1.

Row 8: K1, p2, k1, p3, k1, p2, k1.

Repeat Rows 1–8 for pattern.

Lace B (worked over 11 stitches)

Row 1 (RS): K2, (yo, k2tog) four times, k1.

Row 2 (WS): K1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Row 3: K3, (yo, k2tog) three times, k2.

Row 4: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.

Lace C (worked over 11 stitches)

Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, k5, p2, k1.

Row 2 (WS): K3, p5, k3.

Row 3: K1, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k1.

Row 4: K3, p5, k3.

Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.

Pattern Notes

The combination of cotton-blend yarn and a lace pattern gives these headbands a tendency to stretch. Keep this in mind when you determine the length of your headband.

Knitting Headband A

• Cast on 11 stitches.
• Knit 10 rows.
• Work Rows 1–8 of Lace A until headband measures 19"/48.5 cm or 1"/2.5 cm less than desired length, ending with a WS row.

  Lace A

  

Knitting the Buttonholes

• Rows 1–4: Knit.
• Row 5 (RS, Buttonhole Row): K3, (yo, k2tog, k2) twice.
• Rows 6–12: Knit.

  Note: You can create an adjustable headband by repeating Rows 5–12 to make an extra set of buttonholes.

• Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends.

Knitting Headband B

• Cast on 11 stitches.
• Knit 10 rows.
• Work Rows 1–4 of Lace B until headband measures 19"/48.5 cm or 1"/2.5 cm less than desired length, ending with a WS row.

  Lace B

  
• Work buttonholes as for Headband A.
• Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends.

Knitting Headband C

• Cast on 11 stitches.
• Knit 10 rows.
• Work Rows 1–4 of Lace C until headband measures 19"/48.5 cm or 1"/2.5 cm less than desired length, ending with a WS row.

  Lace C

  
• Work buttonholes as for Headband A.
• Bind off all stitches. Weave in ends.

Finishing All Headbands

• Block headband to 2"/5 cm wide and required length. Overlap the ends, and sew two buttons to the RS of the garter stitch beginning section underneath the buttonholes.

Lattice Frost Purse

Designed by Sara Delaney

Here’s one for the crocheters among us. This stylish round-bottom purse has vintage appeal, and it’s worked in an easy-to-remember two-row lace pattern. You can completely change the look with the lining color and button choice.

• Finished Measurements: Approximately 25¹⁄₂"/65 cm circumference; 9¹⁄₂"/24 cm tall from base to upper edge, excluding handles; and 7³⁄₄"/19.5 cm diameter across base
• Yarn: Lopi Einband, 100% pure new wool, 245 yds (225 m)/1.75 oz (50 g), Color 1761 Teal
• Crochet Hook: US D/3 (3.25 mm) or size you need to obtain correct gauge
• Gauge: 5 repeats of Lattice Lace pattern = 4¹⁄₄"/11 cm wide; 12 rounds in Lattice Lace pattern = 4"/10 cm high
• Other Supplies: Two 5"/12.5 cm circular purse handles; yarn needle; large vase or rolled beach towel for blocking; ¹⁄₂ yd/46 cm lining fabric; circle of cardboard 7¹⁄₂"/19 cm in diameter for stiffening the purse bottom; sewing needle and thread that matches the lining fabric; one 1"/2.5 cm button; 1 yd/1 m satin ribbon, 1/8"/3 mm wide (optional)
• Special Abbreviation: SB slender bobble

Pattern Essentials

Slender Bobble: *Yo, insert hook into stitch, yo and draw up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, repeat from * once more, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Single Crochet around Handle: Hold circular handle behind the work, with the top of the circle even with the stitch to be joined. Insert hook into the stitch and then into the circle; bring the yarn over the top of the circle from the front to back, yo and draw a loop through both the circle and stitch; bring the yarn over the top of the circle from back to front, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook.

Crocheting the Base

• Round 1: Ch 3, work 11 dc all in 3rd ch from hook, join with slip stitch to 3rd ch of ch-3.
• Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc on this and all following rounds), 1 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each stitch around, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 24 dc.
• Round 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next stitch; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 36 dc.
• Round 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 2 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 48 dc.
• Round 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 3 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 3 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 60 dc.
• Round 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 72 dc.
• Round 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 5 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 5 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 84 dc.
• Round 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 6 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 6 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 96 dc.
• Round 9: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 7 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 7 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 108 dc.
• Round 10: Ch 2, 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 8 stitches, *2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in each of next 8 stitches; repeat from * 10 more times, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 120 dc.
• Round 11: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, 1 sc in each stitch around, join with slip stitch to first sc.

Crocheting the Lattice Lace

• Setup Round: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, ch 2, skip 1 stitch, SB in next stitch, ch 2, skip 1 stitch, *1 sc in next stitch, ch 2, skip 1 stitch, SB in next stitch, ch 2, skip 1 stitch; repeat from * to end of round, join with slip stitch to first sc. You now have 30 SB stitches.
• Work Lattice Lace pattern as follows.
• Round 1: Ch 4, 1 sc in top of next SB, *ch 5, 1 sc in top of next SB, repeat from * to end of round, ch 2, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-4.
• Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, ch 2, SB in next sc, ch 2, *1 sc in next ch-5 space, ch 2, SB in next sc, ch 2; repeat from * to end of round, join with slip stitch to first sc.
• Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 thirteen more times.

Crocheting the Top Edge

• Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in top of SB, 2 dc in ch-2 space, *1 dc in sc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, 1 dc in SB, 2 dc in ch-2 space; repeat from * to end of round, join with slip stitch to 2nd ch of ch-2. You now have 180 dc.
• Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 34 stitches, 1 sc around handle in next 20 stitches, 1 sc in each of next 70 stitches, 1 sc around handle in next 20 stitches, 1 sc in each of next 35 stitches, join with slip stitch to first sc.
• Fasten off.

Crocheting the Button Tab

• With RS facing and counting from right to left, rejoin yarn to 6th sc of either handle.
• Setup Row: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 sc of handle, turn.
• Row 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 10 stitches, turn.
• Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 2¹⁄₂"/6.5 cm or desired length.
• Row 2: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of next 3 stitches, ch 3, skip 3 stitches, 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches, turn.
• Row 3: Ch 2, 1 sc in each of next 3 stitches, 3 sc in ch-3 space, 1 sc in each of next 4 stitches.
• Repeat Row 1 once more.
• Row 4: Ch 2, *yo, insert hook into stitch, yo and bring up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * nine more times, yo and pull through all 11 loops on hook.
• Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing

• Block purse around a large vase or rolled beach towel.

Making the Lining

• Cut two circles of lining fabric 8¹⁄₂"/21.5 cm in diameter. With RS of lining pieces facing out, sandwich the cardboard circle for the bottom of the bag between the two pieces and baste all the way around with a ¹⁄₂"/ 13 mm seam allowance. Cut a rectangle of lining fabric about 1"/2.5 cm taller than the bag from base to upper edge, and about 26"–27"/66–68.5 cm wide. Sew short ends of the rectangle together to form a cylinder, then sew the bottom of the cylinder to the fabric-covered cardboard circle, easing it to fit. Insert lining into purse with WS of lining and purse touching so the RS of lining shows when you look into the purse. Fold the top edge of the lining ¹⁄₂"/13 mm to WS, and sew invisibly in place to WS of bag along the last round of the Lattice Lace pattern using small, firm stitches.
• Sew a button to the RS of the purse, centered about 1¹⁄₂"/4 cm below the handle without the button tab, and sewing through both layers of the purse and lining. For the optional satin ribbon, beginning and ending directly below the button, weave the ribbon around the bottom of the purse through the first Round 2 at the start of the Lattice Lace pattern. Tie ends of ribbon in a small bow as shown and trim the excess.

Lining Tip

To make your purse even more useful, consider adding pockets to the lining. Simply cut squares or rectangles to the desired pocket sizes and sew them to the right side of the lining fabric before you join the ends to form a cylinder. You can add buttons, snaps, or Velcro to keep the pockets closed if desired.