Backward loop cast on. Hold the end of the yarn and a knitting needle in your right hand. Hold the working yarn in your left hand. Bring your left thumb over the top, down behind, and up in front of the yarn, creating a loop. Insert needle into loop on thumb as if to knit and slide loop onto needle. You may also use the backward loop cast on to add stitches to the end of a row of knitting or to increase stitches mid-row.
Cable cast on. Make a slip knot and place it on your left-hand needle. Follow steps 1 and 2 for knitted-on cast on (see page 294) and then proceed as follows.
Continue in this manner, knitting between the last 2 stitches on the left-hand needle until you have the required number of stitches.
Chain (crochet). Begin with a slip knot on the hook. Wrap yarn over the hook and pull the loop through the slip knot. Yarn over hook, and pull loop through loop on hook to make second chain. Repeat for the required number of chain stitches.
Circular cast on (cast on and divide). Using double-point needles, cast on the desired number of stitches and slip half of the stitches to a second needle. Join into a round and knit the stitches evenly onto three or four needles.
Circular cast on (crochet).
Circular knitting on two circular needles. Using two circular needles of the same size and length (16"/40 cm for small projects), cast on the required number of stitches onto one needle, then divide them evenly between the two needles, keeping the stitches on the needle tips. Holding the needle tips parallel, slide the stitches from both needles down along the cables and up onto the needle tips at the opposite ends. The working yarn should be at the right-hand side of the back needle (figure 1). Still holding the tips parallel, pick up the empty needle tip of the front needle and use it to knit the first stitch on the front needle, joining the stitches into a round (figure 2). Knit the remaining stitches from the front needle and drop the empty needle tip.
Turn the work and slide the stitches that are now on the front needle down along the cable to the other needle tip. Pick up the empty needle tip of the front needle and work the stitches from this same needle. Continue in this manner, sliding stitches and knitting half the stitches with one needle and half the stitches with the other needle (figure 3).
Double crochet. Yarn over hook. Insert hook through both loops of the next stitch. Draw a loop through the stitch. Yarn over hook. Draw loop through the first 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over hook. Draw loop through 2 loops on hook.
Embroidered Chain Stitch. Bring the needle from the back to the front through the fabric at the starting point and pull all but a short tail through the fabric. Bring the needle from front to back one or two threads away from the starting point and pull the thread through, leaving a small loop of thread on the front. Bring the thread to the front and through the loop at the desired length of your chain stitch. Bring the thread to the back one or two threads away from the last point, catching the loop; pull the thread through to the back, leaving a loop for the next stitch.
Figure-8 cast on.
Garter stitch. When knitting back and forth in rows, knit all rows. When knitting circularly, knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
I-cord. Use two double-point needles to make I-cord. Cast on the required number of stitches. *Knit all stitches. Without turning work, slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Pull the working yarn across the back. Repeat from * until cord is desired length. Bind off.
I-cord bind off. At the beginning of the bind-off row, cast on 3 stitches using the cable cast on (see page 290). *K2, ssk. Slip the 3 worked stitches back onto the left-hand needle. Pull the working yarn across the back of those 3 stitches and repeat from *. When 3 stitches remain, k3tog tbl.
To work the bind off with 2 stitches, work k1, ssk instead of k2, ssk; to work the bind off with 4 stitches, work k3, ssk instead of k2, ssk, and so on.
Judy’s Magic Cast On. This invisible cast on for sock toes, mitten and hat tops, and bag bottoms comes to the knitting world from Judy Becker. To see Judy’s original instructions, go to www.persistentillusion.com/blogblog/techniques/magic-cast-on.
Kitchener stitch. This grafting technique is used to join two sets of live stitches invisibly. It is most often used for sock toes but can be used to join shoulder seams or two halves of a scarf.
Repeat steps 2–4 until all stitches have been joined.
Knitted-on cast on. Make a slip knot and place it on your left-hand needle.
Knitwise. When a pattern says “slip the next stitch knitwise,” insert your needle into the next stitch on the left-hand needle from front to back as if you were going to knit it, then slip it to the right-hand needle without knitting it.
Long-tail cast on. Leaving a tail long enough to cast on the desired number of stitches (a generous guess would be 1"/2.5 cm per stitch), make a slip knot and place it on the needle.
M1 (make 1) increase. This increase is worked into the strand between the current stitch and the next one. Work in pattern to where you want to increase, lift the strand between the two needles, place the lifted strand on the left-hand needle as shown below, then knit or purl the stitch.
M1L (left slant, knit). Insert the left-hand needle from front to back, knit through the back.
M1R (right slant, knit). Insert the left-hand needle from back to front, knit through the front.
M1LP (left slant, purl). Insert the left-hand needle from front to back, purl through the back.
M1RP (right slant, purl). Insert the left-hand needle from back to front, purl through the front.
Magic loop. Using a circular needle at least 32"/ 80 cm long, cast on the required number of stitches and slide them onto the cable. Pull a loop of cable out between the two center cast-on stitches. Keep pulling the cable out between the stitches until the stitches are moved onto the needle tips, half the stitches on each tip (figure 1).
Hold the needle tips parallel and make sure the working yarn is on the back needle tip — if it’s not on the back needle, slide the stitches back to the cable and start again, making sure the yarn ends up on the back needle tip. Now slide the stitches on the back needle tip down onto the cable and use the back needle tip as your working (right-hand) needle to knit the stitches from the other (left-hand) needle tip (figure 2). You’ve just knit half the round.
Turn the work and hold the needles with both tips facing to the right and slide the unknit stitches onto the free needle tip and then slide the stitches that you just knit onto the cable. Now use the free needle tip as your right-hand needle to knit the second half of the round (figure 3). Continue in this manner, rearranging the stitches after completing each half-row.
Mattress stitch. For a half-stitch seam allowance, work through the horizontal bar at the base of the stitches in every other row (figure 1).
For a full-stitch seam allowance, work through two horizontal bars on either side of the stitches (figure 2).
Möbius cast on. This clever cast on was made popular by Cat Bordhi in A Treasury of Magical Knitting. It requires a 40"/100 cm circular needle. For more information visit catbordhi.com.
Pick up and knit. With right side facing, insert the needle under both strands of the edge stitch, then wrap the yarn around the needle and knit the picked-up stitch.
Pick up and purl. Insert the needle under both strands of the edge stitch from back to front, then wrap the yarn around the needle and purl the picked-up stitch.
Provisional cast on (crochet chain).
Provisional cast on (crochet over needle).
Purlwise. When a pattern says “slip the next stitch purlwise,” insert your right-hand needle into the next stitch from back to front as if you were going to purl it, then slip it to the right-hand needle without purling it.
Sewn bind off. Cut yarn three times the width of knitting to be bound off, and thread it onto a yarn needle. Working from right to left, *insert the yarn needle purlwise (from right to left) through the first 2 stitches (figure 1) and pull yarn through.
Bring the yarn needle knitwise (from left to right) through the first stitch (figure 2), pull yarn through, and slip this stitch off the knitting needle. Repeat from *.
Single crochet. Insert hook into next stitch, wrap yarn over hook, and draw the loop through the stitch. You now have 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over hook and draw loop through both loops on hook.
Slip stitch crochet. Insert hook into the next stitch, wrap yarn over hook, and draw the loop through the stitch and the loop on the hook.
Stockinette stitch. When knitting back and forth in rows, knit the right-side rows, purl the wrong-side rows. When knitting circularly, knit all rounds.
Three-needle bind off. This technique is used to join two sets of live stitches.
Tubular cast on. Using scrap yarn and your method of choice, cast on half the number of stitches needed. Divide the stitches onto four double-point needles, join for working in the round, and knit 1 round with a smooth cotton cord. Join the main yarn and proceed as follows.
Round 1: :*K1, yo; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: :*K1, yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, yarn back; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 3: :*Yarn back, slip 1 purlwise, yarn forward, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: :*K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
When you’ve completed the rib, pull the cotton cord gently to remove it and the scrap yarn from the work.